How accurate does the 45 degree angle need to be?

For picture frames, small errors add up quickly. If each miter is off by even a small amount, the corners will not close tightly. It is worth taking a few minutes to dial in the angle with test cuts on scrap. Cut two miters, fold them together, and check if the corner is open inside or outside. A small adjustment to the fence and another test cut usually gets you to a clean 90 degree corner.

Woodworking Jigs – AllFlavor Workshop

How to Flatten a Cutting Board: Planer vs Router Flattening Jig

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 05 Feb 2026 14:00:00 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

How to Flatten a Cutting Board: Planer vs Router Flattening Jig

This article starts at the point where most cutting boards actually become a cutting board: right after glue-up, when you’ve got a solid blank… but it’s not perfectly flat yet. Maybe it’s slightly cupped, maybe you’ve got glue lines or ridges, or maybe you’re trying to rescue a board that already looks “finished,” but rocks on the counter.

The good news: you don’t need a huge machine setup to fix it. A planer and a router flattening jig can both get you to a flat board — but each one shines in different situations. And since a planer is expensive (and many woodworkers simply don’t have one), I’ll also show you how to flatten a cutting board without a planer using a router jig, with results that can be just as good (and sometimes even better).

One quick note: even though I’m talking about flattening cutting boards, these exact methods also apply to wood prep before the build — flattening slabs, boards, and glue-ups before you start adding features like grooves and handles.

If you want the safest “works on almost anything” method, check out my DIY Router Flattening Jig build (and plans) — it’s one of the most useful jigs I use for board making.

Quick Answer (Planer vs Router Flattening Jig)

Use a planer when your board fits, the glue-up is decent, and you’re flattening a face grain board (and in many cases edge grain too). It’s much quicker than a router jig — just keep in mind you can get snipe, which may cost you a bit of length or thickness.
Use a router flattening jig when the board is too wide for your planer, when you want to avoid losing material to snipe, or when you want maximum control (especially on trickier boards). It’s generally safer and more forgiving, but also slower — and the nice part is you can build one as a DIY solution if you don’t own a planer.

If you’re not sure which way to go, I usually default to the router jig for safety and control — then only use the planer later if it still makes sense for final thicknessing.

Planer vs Router Flattening Jig: Decision Table
What “Flat” Actually Means (And Why It Matters for Cutting Boards)
Flattening a Cutting Board With a Planer
Flattening a Cutting Board With a Router Flattening Jig
Hybrid Workflows (Best of Both Worlds)
Surface Quality: Planer vs Router Jig (And How Much Sanding to Expect)
Troubleshooting Cutting Board Flattening (Quick Fixes)
Wrap-Up
FAQs: How to Flatten a Cutting Board

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How to Flatten a Cutting Board — Planer vs Router Flattening Jig (quick decision guide).

Planer vs Router Flattening Jig: Decision Table

If you only read one section, read this one. Here’s the quick “which method should I use?” guide based on board size, board type, and the most common issues after glue-up.

Situation / Goal	Planer	Router Flattening Jig	My pick
Face grain board (normal size, mild glue lines)	FastGreat finishVery safe when grain is friendly.	WorksSlower, but still a solid option.	Planer (if it fits)
Edge grain board (tight glue-up, clean surface)	FastUsually fine, but watch grain direction and take light passes.	SaferMore control if you’re worried about tear-out.	Planer (light passes)
End grain board	Not recommendedRisk of tear-out and damaged edges.	Best choiceControlled, predictable, and safer.	Router jig
Board is too wide for your planer	Not possible (capacity limit).	PerfectDesigned for wide glue-ups and slabs.	Router jig
You want to avoid snipe / save length & thickness	Snipe riskPlan extra length or use sacrificial ends/support.	No snipeMore control over exactly what gets removed.	Router jig
Board is cupped / twisted (rocks on the bench)	Possible, but only after you stabilize it (sled/shims), otherwise you “plane it wrong.”	GreatShim the board solid and flatten one face properly.	Router jig
You don’t own a planer	CostlyHard to justify for occasional flattening.	DIY friendlyBuild a simple sled and you’re set.	Router jig
You want the fastest workflow (multiple boards)	BestQuick passes, repeatable results.	Slower setup + slower flattening passes.	Planer
Surface quality right off the tool	Cleaner finishLess sanding (usually).	Router linesExpect light sanding to remove tracks.	Planer
Safety & control (beginner-friendly)	Safe when used correctly, but mistakes can happen fast.	More forgivingSlower, controlled material removal.	Router jig
My “real-world” approach	Great for final thicknessing after you have one flat face.	Great for getting the first face flat (especially wide or twisted boards).	Hybrid (often)

What “Flat” Actually Means (And Why It Matters for Cutting Boards)

A cutting board doesn’t need to be “machinist flat” — it just needs to sit stable on the counter and have two faces that are flat enough to stay that way. Most problems come from one of these three shapes:

Cup – the board curves across the width (it rocks on the counter)
Bow – the board curves along the length
Twist – opposite corners are high/low (the annoying one)

The reason this matters is simple: if you try to plane or sand a board that’s rocking, you usually just follow the curve and end up with a board that looks smooth… but still isn’t truly flat.

✅ My rule of thumb:

The board should sit on a flat surface without rocking.
A straightedge should show no obvious gaps across the face (a tiny gap is fine — your finish and sanding won’t fix a big one).

Also, remember the “flattening trap”: every pass removes thickness. So flattening is always a balance between getting it stable and not thinning the board more than you want. If you’re already close to your target thickness, it’s often smarter to stop once the board is stable and do the rest with sanding.

1. Flattening a Cutting Board With a Planer

A planer is the fastest way to flatten a cutting board when the board fits and the stock is reasonably cooperative. For face grain boards it’s usually straightforward, and for many edge grain boards it works great too — you just want to be a bit more careful with light passes and grain direction. The two big things to watch are tear-out (mainly on edge grain) and snipe (on the first/last part of the board).

Use your planer when:

the board fits your planer’s width and height capacity
the glue-up is fairly even (no big ridges)
you want a fast, repeatable workflow (especially if you’re making multiple boards)

Step-by-Step: How I Flatten a Cutting Board With a Planer

Step 1: Remove glue squeeze-out first

Before the board goes anywhere near the planer, remove all dried glue (especially along glue lines). Glue is harder than wood and can nick your blades — and it can also leave ugly tracks.

Step 2: Take light passes and alternate faces

Start with shallow cuts and don’t rush it. After a few passes, flip the board and plane the other side. Alternating faces keeps things more balanced and helps prevent new warping.

Step 3: If the board rocks, stabilize it with a sled (hot glue works)

If your board is cupped or twisted, don’t send it through the planer as-is. It will rock, and you’ll end up planing the shape into it. Instead, stabilize it first — one easy method is hot-gluing the board to a flat sled/base so it can’t move.

Step 4: Leave sacrificial ends to deal with snipe

Planers often leave a bit of snipe at the beginning and end of a board. The easiest solution is to leave extra length and treat the ends as sacrificial, then trim them off later (especially helpful if your slab ends had cracks anyway).

2. Flattening a Cutting Board With a Router Flattening Jig

If you don’t own a planer (or your board is too wide to fit in one), a router flattening jig is the most reliable way to get a cutting board dead flat. It’s generally safer and more forgiving than a planer because you remove material slowly and you’re always in control — the trade-off is that it’s slower and you’ll usually have a bit more sanding afterward.

If you want to build the same setup I use, check out my DIY Router Flattening Jig (build + plans) — it’s the go-to solution for flattening boards without a planer.

Step-by-Step: How I Flatten a Cutting Board With a Router Jig

Step 1: Lock the board down so it can’t rock

This is the most important part. If the board moves or rocks, you’ll “chase flat” and never get a true reference face. I support the board with shims (or wedges) and clamp it so it stays perfectly still.

Step 2: Set up the rails and sled (parallel + rigid)

Make sure the rails are solid, parallel, and the sled moves smoothly without slop. Any flex here shows up in your surface.

Step 3: Use the right bit and take shallow passes

A large flattening/surfacing bit works best. I set a shallow depth and take multiple passes instead of trying to hog it all at once.

Step 4: Work in a consistent pattern with overlap

I move across the board in rows, overlapping each pass so I don’t leave ridges. Slow and steady wins here.

Step 5: Check progress, then flatten the second side

Once the first face is flat, flip the board, support it again if needed, and flatten the second face to thickness.

Step 6: Clean up the router lines

You’ll usually see light “tracks” from the bit. A quick sanding session removes them easily.

Hybrid Workflows (Best of Both Worlds)

In a real shop, it’s rarely “planer or router jig” — it’s often both.

Each method has its strengths, and combining them is usually the most efficient approach. The best workflow mainly depends on board type (face/edge/end grain) and board size, because those two factors decide what’s safe, what fits your tools, and how much material you can afford to remove.

A common pattern is: use the router flattening jig to get one face truly flat (especially on wider or trickier boards), then use the planer for quicker thicknessing — but only when it makes sense for the board you’re working with.

Surface Quality: Planer vs Router Jig (And How Much Sanding to Expect)

If we’re talking purely “out of the box” surface quality, a planer usually wins. The surface typically feels cleaner right away — especially on face grain boards — and it often needs less work before finishing.

That said, both methods still require sanding. How much sanding you’ll do depends more on the type of cutting board than on the tool:

Face grain boards: usually quick sanding. They plane nicely, and the grain sands fast.
Edge grain boards: a bit more sanding time, and you’ll notice it more if the grain is mixed or hard.
End grain boards: the most sanding, almost always. End grain just takes longer to smooth out.

A router flattening jig adds one extra factor: it leaves faint router tracks from the surfacing bit. You usually won’t feel them with your hand, but they are visible — and on an end grain board, that means you’re doing the “slow sanding” plus removing routing marks.

For sanding, I treat it as a simple progression: start around 80 grit (to remove tool marks), then work up through the grits until the surface looks and feels right — often up to around 300 grit before oil.

If you’re not sure which board type you’re working with (or why sanding feels so different), check out my guide on cutting board types: face grain vs edge grain vs end grain — it’ll make the rest of this process click fast.

Troubleshooting Cutting Board Flattening (Quick Fixes)

If something feels “off” while flattening (rocking, snipe, tracks, tear-out), use this table to diagnose the cause and fix it fast.

Problem	Likely Cause	Fix	Prevent Next Time
Board still rocks after “flattening”	Board wasn’t supported (router jig) or it rocked in the planer; you flattened the curve, not the board.	Find the high corners, shim properly, and re-flatten one face as a true reference.	Always stabilize the board first (shims/sled). Don’t plane a rocking board freehand.
Planer snipe dents on the ends	Normal planer behavior; infeed/outfeed support not ideal; board too short.	Trim off the snipe, or re-plane with better support and lighter passes.	Leave sacrificial ends, support in/outfeed, use light cuts, keep board longer during flattening.
Tear-out / chipped edges	Wrong grain direction, heavy pass, dull knives; risky on edge grain and especially end grain.	Take lighter passes, slow feed, switch direction, sharpen/replace knives; switch to router jig if needed.	Light passes only, keep knives sharp, avoid planing end grain boards.
Deep planer lines / ridges	Glue squeeze-out hit the knives, nicked blade, or uneven feed pressure.	Remove all glue, replace/rotate knives, then take a very light finish pass.	Scrape glue before planing; don’t send glue ridges through the planer.
Router tracks are visible after flattening	Normal surfacing marks from the bit and pass overlap.	Sand starting around 80 grit until tracks disappear, then work up to ~300.	Use shallow passes, overlap consistently, keep rails rigid and sled tight.
Chatter / washboard surface from the router	Too deep of a cut, moving too fast, loose sled/rails, or bit not ideal.	Reduce depth, slow down, tighten the sled/rails, and take a cleanup pass.	Shallow passes, rigid rails, sharp surfacing bit, steady feed.
Burn marks	Too slow feed, too high RPM, dull bit, or too much material removed per pass.	Lower RPM, speed up feed slightly, take shallower passes, clean/replace bit.	Shallow passes, correct RPM, keep bits clean and sharp.
Low spots won’t disappear (you keep chasing them)	Board wasn’t supported flat, or you’re removing too much from the wrong area.	Stop, re-check with a straightedge, re-shim the board, then flatten again properly.	Shim before the first pass; lock the board so it can’t move at all.
Board got too thin	Flattened past what was necessary; started too thin; tried to remove twist by over-flattening.	Accept “flat enough” and finish by sanding; for severe twist, rebuild or use thicker stock next time.	Start thicker, flatten only until stable, then sand; don’t try to fix major twist by thinning.
Board warped again after flattening	Uneven moisture, uneven sanding/finishing, or stored wet/flat on a counter.	Re-flatten if needed, then oil all sides evenly and dry/store upright.	Finish both sides, avoid soaking, dry upright, don’t store flat while wet.

Wrap-Up

Both methods work — the key is using the right one for the situation.

For face grain (and often edge grain too), a planer is usually the fastest option. It’s quick, repeatable, and the surface often comes out cleaner right away — you just need to plan for snipe and take lighter passes when the grain gets tricky.

For wide boards, twist/cup, or when you want maximum control, a router flattening jig is the safer choice. It’s slower, but it’s predictable and works even if you don’t own a planer.

My biggest rule is this: I’ll use a planer on face or edge grain, but I’m very cautious with end grain. After days of glue-ups and work on an end grain board, I want the flattening step to be as smooth and safe as possible — and that’s where a router jig shines.

If you want the method I trust most for wide boards and end grain, check out my DIY Router Flattening Jig (build + plans). And if you’re building more boards this year, my roundup Best Jigs for Making Cutting Boards will show you the essential jigs I use to make the whole process easier, safer, and repeatable.

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Flatten a Cutting Board Without a Planer — router flattening jig method (wide boards + end grain).

FAQ

1) Can I flatten a cutting board without a planer?

Yes. A router flattening jig is the most reliable way to flatten a cutting board without a planer, especially if the board is wide, cupped, or twisted. It’s slower than a planer, but it’s controlled and beginner-friendly.

2) Is it safe to run an end grain cutting board through a planer?

I don’t recommend it. End grain boards can chip and tear out more easily, and after all the work that goes into an end grain board, it’s not worth the risk. A router flattening jig is the safer choice.

3) What router bit is best for flattening a cutting board?

A surfacing/flattening bit (wide cutter) is the best option because it removes material evenly and leaves fewer ridges. Sharp bits and shallow passes make a big difference in surface quality.

4) How do I avoid planer snipe when flattening a cutting board?

The easiest fix is to leave extra length and trim the ends after planing. You can also support the board at the infeed/outfeed, take lighter passes, and avoid planing very short pieces.

5) How smooth should the board be after flattening?

Flattening is about getting it flat — sanding is what makes it finish-ready. I usually sand from about 80 grit up to 300 grit, and end grain boards will take the most time (especially if you’re removing router tracks).

This post How to Flatten a Cutting Board: Planer vs Router Flattening Jig first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

DIY Table Saw Push Block: How to Build a Safe Push Block for Clean Cuts

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 22 Jan 2026 14:00:00 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

DIY Table Saw Push Block: How to Build a Safe Push Block for Clean Cuts

In this blog post I’m going to show you how to build a DIY push block for the table saw—one of those simple jigs that makes ripping much safer and more controlled. A good push block keeps your hands well away from the blade, gives you downward and straight-forward pressure instead of just poking from behind, and really helps on narrow rips and even round stock like dowels and poles. That extra control means less burning, less chance of kickback, and cleaner cuts compared to a simple push stick.

This version is built from Baltic birch plywood and MDF in a size of about 205 × 90 × 60 mm (roughly 8″ × 3½” × 2⅜”). The build includes a base with side stands, a comfortable handle, an adjustable center piece that rides in a T-track, and a detachable side support leg for extra stability. You can also add a rear stop block to push the workpiece from behind. And it’s even better if you build two—perfect for controlling longer pieces during a rip.

👉 If you want to see how this push block fits into a full jig setup, check out my Best Table Saw Jigs for Your Workshop—this build pairs really well with a good crosscut sled, thin strip jig, and spline jig.

Video: Watch the Build

Before we dive into the step-by-step photos, here’s the full build of the DIY table saw push block so you can see how the base, side stands, center piece, side support leg, and handle all come together on the bench and at the saw.

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Video: Watch the Build
Tools and Materials
How a Push Block Makes Cuts Safer
Let’s Start Building!
Step 1: Building the Push Block Base Frame
Step 2: Attaching the Side Legs
Step 3: Building the T-Tracks on Top of the Base
Step 4: Making the Adjustable Center Leg
Step 5: Adding the Non-Slip Rubber Pad
Step 6: Building the Side Adjustable Stand
Step 7: Final Assembly – Putting Everything Together
Wrap-Up: Why This Push Block Is Worth Building
FAQs: DIY Table Saw Push Block

Tools and Materials

This DIY table saw push block is made mostly from Baltic birch plywood, MDF, and a few hardware pieces. Here’s what I used in my shop (some of these are affiliate links, which help support my work at no extra cost to you):

Materials & Hardware:

Painters Tape – link
Wood Glue – link
5 Min Epoxy – link
Wood Screws – link
Sandpaper Sheets – link
Double Sided Woodworking Tape – link
M6 Screw Knobs – link
Non-Slip Foam Rubber Mat
Baltic birch plywood (12 mm for base and structural parts)
MDF offcuts (for internal blocks and pads)
M6 Bolts, M6 Wingnuts, M6 Square Nut

Tools:

Table Saw – link
Hand Drill – link
Drill Press – link
Narex Chisels – link
Table Saw Blade – link
Japanese Dozuki Saw – link
Machinist Square – link
F-Clamps – link
Spring Clamps – link
T-track Clamps – link
Drill Bit Set – link
Straight Router Bit 6 mm – link

See all the Tools and Materials I use here.

📌 Ready to build it?
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DIY Table Saw Push Block — adjustable center leg, side stand, and non-slip base for safer ripping cuts.

How a Push Block Makes Table Saw Rips Safer and Cleaner

A push stick is better than nothing—but it mostly just pushes from the back. A push block, on the other hand, gives you downward and forward pressure at the same time, which changes everything when you’re ripping narrow strips or tricky stock. With a grippy base and heel, the block presses the workpiece down to the table and into the fence, which means less burning, less wandering, and a much lower chance of kickback.

Because your hand is on top of the block, not behind the blade, your fingers stay well away from the danger zone. The wider footprint also supports narrow pieces better than a thin stick, so they don’t chatter or tip as you move past the blade. The adjustable center piece and side support leg on this design let you tune the contact points to the width and shape of the workpiece—even for things like dowels or poles.

In my own shop I use this DIY push block side by side with a commercial one. If you prefer to buy instead of build, the push block I rely on the most is the Grr-Ripper—it’s still the best store-bought push block I’ve used. If you’re considering that route, check out my Grr-Ripper review and my article on the best table saw push blocks for a deeper comparison and ideas on when a premium push block is worth it.

Let’s Start Building!

This push block is built around a sturdy base frame with side stands that straddle the workpiece, so it feels stable as you push along the fence. In the center of the base, we’ll add two homemade T-tracks and a sliding center piece you can position exactly where you want the pressure. On one side, there’s a detachable side support leg, and on top, a shaped handle, allowing you to apply even pressure without straining your wrist.

On the underside, a non-slip foam rubber pad gives the block its grip. We’ll go step by step through:

Building the base frame and side stands
Routing the T-tracks and making the adjustable center piece
Adding the side support leg and anti-slip pad
Assembling all the parts

Once you have the first one done, making a second matching push block will be much easier.

How to Make a Push Block for Table Saw

Step 1: Building the Push Block Base Frame

I start by cutting the two base layers to size: both pieces are 190 × 90 mm, one from 12 mm plywood and the other from 9 mm plywood. I rip them to width on the table saw and then crosscut to final length using my table saw sled, so both pieces come out square and identical.

Then I glue the pieces together and additionally add a few screws from the side of the 9 mm plywood (which will be the bottom piece). Before moving on, I also carve two shallow hexagon recesses on the bottom side for the M6 bolt heads that will hold the handle later. It’s much easier to do this now while everything is still accessible. The bolt heads sit flush in the recesses so the base stays flat.

Note: Make sure all screw heads are flush or slightly below the surface so they don’t interfere with the rabbets or with the center leg.

Then I mark out the two rabbets on the bottom piece using my ruler marking gauge—one 12 mm wide, the other 6.5 mm. These will form the “legs” of the push block that straddle the workpiece. I cut the rabbets on the table saw, setting the blade height so the depth equals the full thickness of the 9 mm bottom layer. After the cuts, I clean up and lightly sand the rabbets.

Step 2: Attaching the Side Legs

With the rabbets cut and cleaned up, it’s time to add the side legs that give the push block its height and help it straddle the workpiece. I cut two plywood pieces to size. Each piece matches the length of the base so everything lines up nicely:

190 × 40 × 12 mm
190 × 40 × 6.5 mm

I apply just enough wood glue into the rabbets, then seat the plywood pieces into the grooves and clamp them in place. Once they’re aligned and clamped, I add a few screws from the sides of the stands into the base to reinforce the joint.

Again, all screw heads must sit flush or slightly below the surface, so they don’t catch on the table saw fence or interfere with the adjustable supporting side stand.

Tip: Before gluing the side stands in place, you can carve two hexagon recesses in the 12 mm leg for the M6 bolt heads that will later hold the side adjustable stand. Again, it’s much easier to do this now than after everything is assembled (you can see me do that in step 3).

Step 3: Building the T-Tracks on Top of the Base

Next, I add two T-tracks on the top of the push block base—one toward the front and one toward the back. These tracks let the central leg/pressure block slide and lock in place..

I start by marking the track layout on top of the base and then cut the grooves on the table saw using my sled. The tracks are:

One deeper central dado (about 10 mm deep)
Two shallower outer dados (about 3 mm deep each)

After cutting, I clean up the grooves and cut MDF strips to fit the outer dados. With just enough wood glue, I press the MDF strips into the outer slots.

Tip: Be careful with the glue here — if it gets into the central dado, it’s hard to remove later and can stop your T-track bolts from sliding smoothly. Screws can be used too.

Once the glue dries, I test the track with a square-nut setup to make sure it slides freely along the full length.

👉 Check out my DIY T-Tracks and T-Track Bolts guide, where I go step by step through building custom T-tracks for jigs and fixtures.

Step 4: Making the Adjustable Center Leg

The adjustable center leg is the part that actually pushes down on the workpiece and slides in the T-tracks so you can position it exactly where you need it.

I start by cutting all the pieces to size. The center leg is made from six small parts:

2 pieces that form the main leg
2 side pieces that connect the leg to the top
2 upper pieces that sit over the T-tracks

First, I drill the connecting holes in the upper pieces. These holes will later accept the M6 Wing bolts.

With the holes drilled, I glue up the stack: the leg pieces, side pieces, and top pieces all come together in a small “bridge” that can straddle the T-track and press down on the workpiece. I use a few screws for extra strength.

At this stage I don’t add the wing screws or nuts yet—those will go in during the final assembly. For now, the goal is to have a solid, adjustable center block that fits nicely over the tracks and is ready to be bolted down later.

Step 5: Adding the Non-Slip Rubber Pad

The non-slip rubber pad is what really lets the push block grab the workpiece instead of just sliding over it. The goal here is to create a solid, grippy contact between the jig and the workpiece so you can push it forward with confidence.

This part takes a bit of experimenting to find the right material. I’m using a rubber sheet from a local store that I cut into strips and glue to the bottom of the legs. Over time, the surface can lose some of its bite; when that happens, I just give it a light mist with spray adhesive, and the grip comes back nicely.

I cut all the rubber strips to size and use epoxy to glue them onto the bottom faces of the legs. I press everything firmly in place and let the epoxy fully cure before using the push block on the saw.

Step 6: Building the Side Adjustable Stand

The side-adjustable stand helps match the height of the workpiece, so the push block sits flat and stable while you cut. With it attached, the jig rests on both the main legs and the stand, which adds support on taller or narrower boards. If you don’t need it, you can simply unbolt it and set it aside.

I cut a horizontal base piece and a vertical piece, then route two vertical slots in the upright for height adjustment. The vertical piece is glued onto the horizontal base, and I add two small support blocks.

The finished side stand is attached to the 12 mm side leg of the push block with bolts and wing nuts passing through the slots. This lets you raise or lower the stand to match your stock and then lock it in place.

Step 7: Final Assembly – Putting Everything Together

With all the components ready, it’s time to assemble the push block and get it ready for the table saw.

First, I add the handle. It mounts on top of the base and is secured with bolts and wing nuts, so you can remove it and reuse it on other jigs if you want. If you’d like to see how I built this style of handle in detail, check out my article on how to build a table saw thin strip jig—the handle design comes straight from that build.

Next, I attach the side stand to the 12 mm side leg and fix the adjustable center leg to the T-tracks using M6 Wing bolts and square nuts.

Once everything is tightened down and adjusted to your typical stock height, the push block is finished and ready to use.

Wrap-Up: Why This Push Block Is Worth Building

A table saw push block is one of those shop upgrades that absolutely pays off every time you rip stock—better control, cleaner cuts, and your hands stay well away from the blade. This build is a bit more advanced than a simple block of wood, but in return you get an adjustable center leg, a detachable side stand, and a handle, so the block actually does what it should: holds the work down, against the fence, and moves it forward.

The one part I really recommend experimenting with is the bottom material. I’m using a non-slip rubber sheet from a local store, and it works well as long as it’s grippy—you can always refresh it with a light mist of spray adhesive when it starts to lose tack. You could also add a rear stop block later to push from the back of the workpiece if you want even more positive control.

Alongside this jig, I still use a store-bought push block, and the one I reach for most is the Grr-Ripper. If you’re deciding whether to build or buy, you can check out my Grr-Ripper review and my article on the best table saw push blocks to see how this DIY version compares.

👉 And if you’d like to keep improving your setup, take a look at my Best Table Saw Jigs for Your Workshop.

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Homemade Table Saw Push Block — a simple safety jig that keeps your hands away from the blade and improves control.

FAQs: DIY Table Saw Push Block

1. Why use a push block instead of just a push stick?

A push stick mainly pushes from behind, which can leave the workpiece unstable—especially on narrow rips. A push block gives you downward and forward pressure at the same time, holding the board flat to the table and tight against the fence. That means better control, less burning, less chance of kickback, and your hands stay farther away from the blade.

2. What size should a table saw push block be?

There’s no single “correct” size, but something around 200 mm long × 90 mm wide × 60 mm high (about 8″ × 3½” × 2⅜”) works well for most ripping tasks. It’s big enough to feel stable and keep your hand clear of the blade, but compact enough to maneuver comfortably over the table and past the fence.

3. What material should I use on the bottom for grip?

The most important thing is that the bottom material is non-slip and durable. A rubber sheet or foam rubber mat works great—anything that grips the wood instead of sliding. It’s also handy if you can refresh the grip with a bit of spray adhesive when it starts to wear down, rather than having to replace the pad every time.

4. Do I need one or two push blocks?

One push block is already a big improvement over a bare hand or a simple stick, but two push blocks are ideal for longer or narrower boards. With a pair, you can keep one ahead of the blade and one behind, maintaining steady pressure and control along the entire cut. This setup feels much safer and more stable on the table saw.

5. Can I use this push block on tools other than the table saw?

Yes, depending on its size and shape, you can often use a push block on a router table, jointer, or band saw as well. As long as the bottom is grippy and the block is shaped so it’s comfortable and safe to hold, it can help keep your hands away from blades and cutters on other machines too. Just make sure it gives you solid contact and doesn’t get too close to any cutters in use.

This post DIY Table Saw Push Block: How to Build a Safe Push Block for Clean Cuts first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

How to Build a Picture Frame Jig for the Table Saw (Perfect 45° Corners)

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 15 Jan 2026 14:00:00 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

How to Build a Picture Frame Jig for the Table Saw (Perfect 45° Corners)

Getting perfect 45° corners on picture frames sounds simple… until you glue everything up and see tiny gaps in the corners. Cutting one side a hair long, measuring from the wrong reference, or bumping your miter gauge can all throw the frame off. That’s why I built a dedicated picture frame jig for the table saw (miter sled) —a jig made specifically for matching miters.

In this build, I’ll show you how I made a full-size picture frame sled with two perpendicular fences (for short and long sides), an adjustable stop block, and a self-adhesive ruler for precise lengths. Once the stop block is set, you can cut frame parts over and over, and they’ll all come out the same size. Both fences have T-tracks, so you can slide the stop block, add hold-down clamps, or add other small accessories.

The jig is built from Baltic birch plywood and MDF, with an oak miter bar underneath that rides in the table saw’s miter slot. The base is about 350 × 700 mm (roughly 13 ¾” × 27 ½”), which gives plenty of support for mid-size/ larger frames. I also have a smaller miter add-on for my main sled, but that one is for quick 45° cuts—this picture frame jig is what I use when I want precise, measured frames.

👉 If you enjoy building accessories for your saw, have a look at my Best Table Saw Jigs for Your Workshop to see how this picture frame jig fits into the bigger jig setup.

Video: Watch the Build

Here’s the full build of the table saw picture frame jig so you can see exactly how the base, fences, stop block, and scale come together before we jump into the step-by-step photos.

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1. Video: Watch the Build
2. Tools and Materials
3. Why Build a Picture Frame Jig for the Table Saw?
4. Let’s Start Building!
  Step 1: Building the Picture Frame Jig Base
  Step 2: Making and Attaching the Fences
  Step 3: Making the Stop Block
  Step 4: Finishing the Picture Frame Jig — Scale and Hold-Down Clamp
5. A Quick Note on Ruler Placement and Rabbet Length
6. Setting Up the Picture Frame Jig (and Cutting Your First Frame)
7. Wrap-Up: Why I Like This Picture Frame Jig
8. FAQs: Picture Frame Jig for the Table Saw

Tools and Materials

This picture frame jig is built mostly from Baltic birch plywood, MDF, and a few hardware pieces.
Here’s what I used in my shop (some of these are affiliate links, which help support my work at no extra cost to you):

Tools:

Table Saw – link
Hand Drill – link
Drill Bit Set – link
Table Saw Blade – link
Japanese Ryoba Saw – link
Self-Adhesive Measuring Tape – link
Steel Ruler – link
Digital Protractor – link
Speed Square – link
Transparent Triangle – link
Machinist Square – link
Toggle Clamps – link
Strap Clamp – link
One Hand Clamps – link
T-track Clamps – link
Spring Clamps – link
Mini F-Clamps – link

Materials & Hardware

Wood Glue – link
Painters Tape – link
Sandpaper Sheets – link
Wood Screws – link
Baltic birch plywood (base and fences)
MDF offcuts (fence faces and stop block parts)
Oak strips (for the miter bar)
T-track extrusion or homemade T-track (for the fences)
Bolts, washers, and knobs/wing nuts (for the stop block and accessories)

All the tools I use: here

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How to Build a Picture Frame Jig for the Table Saw — step-by-step jig build for clean, repeatable 45° miters.

Why Build a Picture Frame Jig for the Table Saw?

You can cut miters with a miter gauge or miter saw, but a dedicated picture frame jig solves three big issues: accuracy, repeatability, and referencing from the rabbet.

For picture frames, the crucial dimension isn’t the outer size—it’s the rabbet that holds the picture, mat, or glass. With this jig, you can set the stop block based on the rabbet length, so you’re cutting to the dimension that actually matters. That’s what gives you frames where the artwork slips in snugly without gaps.

A picture frame jig also:

Cuts both mating miters on the same sled and setup, so they truly meet at 90°.
Provides a large, stable base that supports narrow frame stock during the cut.
Let’s you lock in an adjustable stop block so all short sides and long sides match.
Uses T-tracks in the fences for stop blocks, hold-down clamps, and other add-ons.

My smaller miter attachment is perfect for quick 45° cuts on small parts, but it doesn’t have a long fence, stop block, or scale. This dedicated picture frame jig does—which is why I use it whenever I’m making proper picture frames, sets of matching frames, or anything where tight, gap-free corners really matter.

Let’s Start Building!

This jig is essentially a compact crosscut sled tuned specifically for picture frames. The base is a Baltic birch plywood panel with an oak miter bar underneath that runs in the table saw’s miter slot. On top, we add two perpendicular fences—one for short sides, one for long sides—each with a T-track routed in for the stop block and optional clamps.

We’ll build:

The picture frame jig base
The fence assembly
The stop block
The self-adhesive scale ruler setup

Once everything is aligned and the 45° cuts are dialed in, you’ll have a jig that can cut both short and long frame parts accurately, reference directly from the rabbet, and produce repeatable, matching frame pieces every time.

How to Build a Picture Frame Jig for Table Saw

Step 1: Building the Picture Frame Jig Base

I start by cutting the base panel for the sled. I’m using 12 mm Baltic birch plywood and cut it to 350 × 700 mm (about 13 ¾” × 27 ½”) on my table saw sled so all edges are straight and square.

Next, I cut two oak runners that will ride in the table saw’s miter slots. I carefully sneak up on the width so each runner fits perfectly in the slot—no side-to-side play, but still able to slide smoothly. If needed, I lightly sand the edges.

To glue the runners to the base, I first need to mark their exact position. I place the plywood base on the saw table, roughly where I want it to sit, and lock the table saw fence. Using a carpenter’s square, I rotate the base so it sits at a 45° angle to the fence/blade—this is what gives the jig its picture-frame miter orientation. With the base held in this position, I mark where the runners will land under the base.

Then I flip the base over and glue on the first oak runner along the marked line. The second runner is made in more of a T-shape—wider at the bottom—to prevent the sled from tipping when you pull it far forward for longer frames. (When the frame stock sticks out, it shifts the weight, and that extra support keeps the base seated in the slots.)

Once the glue is dry, I test-fit the sled in the saw’s miter slots. If the runners feel a bit tight, I lightly sand the sides and test again until the sled slides smoothly from front to back without binding or rocking.

Step 2: Making and Attaching the Fences

With the base ready, I move on to the two fences that guide all the cuts. First, I cut the plywood fence pieces to size and glue them into thicker blanks. After the glue dries, I mark the layout for the T-track and cut the slots on the table saw.

The T-track is made from a deeper center slot and two shallower outer slots. I glue two MDF strips into the outer slots—together with the center groove, they form a simple T-track channel for the stop block and clamps.

Tip: Use just enough glue so it doesn’t squeeze into the middle slot. Dried glue in the track is hard to clean out later.

Once the fences are dry, I cut a short piece off the longer fence to use later as the stop block. Then I cut the ends of both the long fence and short fence at 45°, so their miters will meet at the cut line.

To position the fences, I mark the location of the long fence on the base using a ruler marking gauge, and glue it down. Then, using a square, I glue the short fence at a perfect 90° to the long one so their 45° ends meet.

Note: It’s fine to leave a tiny gap between the fence miters—you’ll cut through this area when you make the first kerf.

After the glue cures, I make the first saw cut through the jig, cutting through the base and fence miters and stopping about 2 cm past the fence.

Tip: Cover the cut line with painter’s tape before cutting to help reduce tear-out and keep the kerf edge clean.

Step 3: Making the Stop Block

For the stop block, I reuse the offcut from the longer fence. It already has a 45° end, which is perfect because it lets the frame piece register right up to the mitered corner. I simply flip the offcut upside down so the T-track groove now faces down toward the base.

On top of this offcut, I glue and screw a small plywood connector piece with a drilled hole through it. This hole is for the T-track bolt that runs in the fence. Once assembled, the bolt slides inside the fence T-track, and the block can be moved anywhere along the fence to set your exact frame length. Tighten the knob or wing nut, and the length is locked in.

You can build a second stop block in the same way for the other fence if you want separate stops for short and long frame sides.

Step 4: Finishing the Picture Frame Jig — Scale and Hold-Down Clamp

To finish the picture frame jig, I add two small upgrades that make it much easier to use: a self-adhesive ruler and a hold-down clamp.

First, I stick a self-adhesive measuring tape along the longer fence, starting from the saw kerf. This lets me read the exact frame length directly at the stop block, so I can set the inside (rabbet) dimension quickly and repeat it for multiple frames.

Then I add a hold-down clamp into the fence T-track. This one is optional, but it helps a lot in practice. The clamp locks the workpiece in place so you don’t have to hold it by hand while cutting. It’s mounted with a T-track bolt and knob, and you can move it anywhere along the fence—or swap it between the longer and shorter fences.

In the same way, you can add other accessories to the T-track later—extra stops, auxiliary blocks, or different styles of clamps.

A Quick Note on Ruler Placement and Rabbet Length

When you’re measuring picture frames, you don’t really care about the outside size of the frame—you care about the rabbet length, the space where the picture or mat actually sits. In practice, that means you should set your stop block to the visible opening / rabbet dimension, not just the full frame length. For example, if your picture is 300 × 200 mm, you want the distance from rabbet shoulder to rabbet shoulder to match that, not the outer edges of the molding. Otherwise, your picture might end up loose, too tight, or leave an unexpected border. That’s why the position of the self-adhesive ruler on the fence matters.

Note: In my build, I place the ruler in a specific spot so it already accounts for the offset between the outer frame edge and where the picture actually starts. My pictures don’t start right at the corners—they have a small white border/offset—so the zero point on the scale is set accordingly.

The idea is: once you understand your profile and rabbet offset, you can place the ruler so that when you read, say, “300 mm” at the stop block, you’re actually cutting the correct length for the rabbet / visible area, not just a random outside measurement.

Setting Up the Picture Frame Jig (and Cutting Your First Frame)

Setting the jig starts with the rabbet length, not the outside of the frame. Measure the size of the picture or mat and decide if you want a visible offset/border. That final inside dimension (picture size ± offset) is what you set on the scale and stop block, because that’s the length the rabbet needs to be.

Before cutting real stock, quickly dial in the 45°:

Make a test cut on scrap with the jig.
Fold two offcuts together so the miters meet.
If the corner is open inside or outside, make a tiny fence adjustment and recut until the joint closes cleanly at 90°.

To cut the frame pieces:

First miter: place the frame strip with the rabbet against the shorter fence and cut the first 45°.
Second miter + length: move the strip to the longer fence, push it against the stop block set to your rabbet length, and cut the second miter.

Repeat for all sides. For a square frame, use the same setting on all four pieces. For a rectangular frame, cut two pieces at the “short” setting and two at the “long” one.

For glue-up, add a bit of wood glue to each miter, pull the corners together, secure them with painter’s tape, and tighten everything with a strap clamp until the frame is square. If you want to reinforce and decorate the corners, you can add splines after the glue dries.

👉 For that, I like to use my table saw spline jig—perfect for strengthening picture frame miters with contrasting splines.

Wrap-Up: Why I Like This Picture Frame Jig

For me, this picture frame jig turns what used to be a slightly stressful operation into a simple, repeatable routine. Instead of fussing with a miter gauge and tape measure for every piece, I can set the angle once, dial in the rabbet length on the stop block, and just cut. If I want two or three frames in the same size, they all come out identical, and the corners actually close without those annoying little gaps.

The nice thing is that it’s not limited to frames. At the end of the day, this is a 45° miter sled with good support and a T-track system—so it works just as well for small boxes, molding, trim, and any project where you want clean, repeatable miters. The T-track gives you room to grow: more stops, different clamps, and little add-ons you’ll come up with over time as you use it.

If you enjoyed this build and want to keep upgrading your saw, check out my Best Table Saw Jigs for Your Workshop—this picture frame jig is just one piece of a whole setup that makes cutting safer, more accurate, and honestly a lot more fun.

📌 Ready to build it?
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DIY Picture Frame Jig for Table Saw — accurate miters with a stop block, T-track, and built-in measuring scale.

FAQs: Picture Frame Jig for the Table Saw

1. Do I really need a picture frame jig, or is a miter gauge enough?

You can cut picture frame miters with a standard miter gauge, but it’s harder to get repeatable, gap-free corners, especially when making more than one frame. A dedicated picture frame jig gives you a fixed 45° setup, a stop block for consistent lengths, and better support for narrow frame stock. That makes it easier to get clean joints and matching parts with less fiddling.

2. Can I use this jig for other projects besides picture frames?

Yes. At its core, this is a 45° miter sled, so it’s useful anytime you need consistent miters: small boxes, trim pieces, molding, decorative strips, or mitered frames for cabinet doors. The T-tracks and adjustable stop block make it handy wherever you want repeatable angled cuts with good workpiece support.

3. How accurate does the 45° angle need to be?

For picture frames, small errors add up quickly—if each miter is off by even half a degree, the corners won’t close. That’s why it’s worth taking a few minutes to dial it in with test cuts on scrap. Cut two miters, fold them together, and check if the corner is open inside or outside. A tiny tweak to the fence and another test cut usually gets you to a clean, tight 90°.

4. What size frames can I make with this jig?

That depends mostly on your base size and how far the frame pieces can extend safely on the sled. With a base around 350 × 700 mm (about 13 ¾” × 27 ½”), you can comfortably make small to medium frames for photos, prints, and posters. Longer frames are possible as long as the workpiece is still well supported and the sled doesn’t tip—this is where a second, “T-shaped” runner really helps.

5. Is the hold-down clamp necessary, or can I just hold the work by hand?

You can hold the workpiece by hand if you’re careful and keep your fingers clear of the blade, but a hold-down clamp is much safer and more consistent. It keeps the frame stock pressed firmly against the fence and base, which reduces chatter and shifting during the cut. Because the clamp rides in the T-track, you can move it where you need it or use it on either fence.

This post How to Build a Picture Frame Jig for the Table Saw (Perfect 45° Corners) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

How to Build a Table Saw Thin Strip Jig (Safe, Repeatable Thin Rips)

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 08 Jan 2026 14:00:00 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

How to Build a Table Saw Thin Strip Jig (Safe, Repeatable Thin Rips)

Cutting really thin strips on the table saw looks simple, but in reality it’s often inconsistent and a bit unsafe—especially when you keep sneaking the fence closer to the blade and pushing narrow pieces by hand. Strips vary in width, burning shows up, and your fingers feel way too close.

That’s why I built this table saw thin strip jig. It’s a small, easy-to-make jig that costs almost nothing and lets you set the dimension once, then cut uniform thin strips over and over without touching the fence. A hold-down clamp keeps the workpiece pressed to the base, a back stopper supports it from behind, and a handle lets you guide the whole jig smoothly along the fence with your hands well away from the blade.

All the accessories are detachable and adjustable. The hold-down and back stopper ride in a homemade T-track and are fixed with DIY T-track bolts, so you can set them exactly where you need them. The jig handles thin strips from just a few millimetres (about 1/16″–1/8″) up to a few centimetres (around 3/4″–1″). The base is built mainly from 12 mm Baltic birch plywood and MDF, and measures about 33 × 10 × 3.6 cm (roughly 13″ × 4″ × 1 7/16″).

👉 Once you’ve built this jig, check out my Best Table Saw Jigs for Your Workshop to see how it fits into a full jig setup around the saw.

Video: Watch the Build

Before we dive into the step-by-step photos, here’s the full build of the table saw thin strip jig so you can see how all the parts fit and work together in real time.

I appreciate every YouTube subscriber. It’s free and easy to subscribe to — Click Here To Subscribe. Thank you!

1. Video: Watch the Build
2. Tools and Materials
3. Why Use a Thin Strip Jig on the Table Saw?
4. Let’s Start Building!
  Step 1: Building the Thin Strip Jig Base
  Step 2: Making the Thin Strip Jig Handle
  Step 3: Making the Hold-Down Clamp
  Step 4: Making the Back Stopper
5. Setting Up and Using the Thin Strip Jig
6. Wrap-Up: A Small Jig with a Lot of Use
7. FAQs: Table Saw Thin Strip Jig

Tools and Materials

You can build this table saw thin strip jig mostly from plywood, MDF, and a few basic hardware pieces.
Here’s what I used in my shop:

Tools:

Table Saw – link
Trim Router – link
Angle Grinder – link
Hand Drill – link
Narex Chisels – link
Push Block – link
Precision Miter Gauge – link
Drill Bit Set – link
Mini Clamps – link
F-Clamps – link
Spring Clamps – link
Table Saw Blade – link
Straight Router Bit – link
T-Track Clamps – link

Materials and Hardware:

Wood Screws – link
Double-Sided Woodworking Tape – link
Sandpaper Sheets – link
Wood Glue – link
T-track bolts – (DIY from M6 hardware and wooden heads)
12 mm plywood (Baltic birch) – for base, handle, and stops
MDF offcuts – for the T-track and hold-down parts
M6 bolts and M6 wing nuts – for adjustable components

Check all the tools and materials I use here.

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How to Build a Table Saw Thin Strip Jig — step-by-step jig build for safe, repeatable thin rips.

Why Use a Thin Strip Jig on the Table Saw?

A thin strip jig solves two big problems at once: safety and consistency.

Without a jig, cutting thin strips often means trapping the offcut between the blade and the fence, or standing a bit too close while trying to push a narrow piece past the blade. That’s where burning, pinching, and scary moments usually happen. It also means that every time you want another strip, you’re back to nudging the fence, checking with calipers, and hoping the next cut matches the last one.

With a thin strip jig:

The workpiece is held down and supported by the hold-down and back stopper.
Your hands stay on the handle, away from the blade.
The width of the strip is set by the jig, not by how carefully you adjusted the fence that day.
Once the jig is dialed in, you can run strip after strip at exactly the same thickness.

For anything that needs lots of narrow pieces—edge banding, inlay strips, small frame parts, spacers, slats—this jig turns a stressful operation into a simple, repeatable routine.

Let’s Start Building!

In the build, we’ll break the jig into a few simple parts and assemble them step by step. It’s made from plywood, MDF, a few M6 bolts, wing nuts, and homemade T-track bolts, so it’s a great way to use up offcuts.

Here’s what we’ll cover:

Building the thin strip jig base – cutting the blank, adding the T-track, and sizing it for your saw.
Making the thin strip jig handle – a comfortable handle you can grip firmly while pushing along the fence.
Making the thin strip jig hold-down clamp – an adjustable clamp that keeps the workpiece pressed safely to the base.
Making the thin strip jig back stopper – a solid support that gives the workpiece something to register against.
Assembling the table saw thin strip jig – putting all the parts together, adding the hardware, and dialing in the first setup.

Once the jig is assembled, we’ll set it on the fence and start cutting safe, repeatable thin rips on the table saw.

How to Build a Thin Strip Jig for Table Saw

Step 1: Building the Thin Strip Jig Base

I start by cutting all the base pieces to size. The jig base is made from three plywood strips, each measuring 33 × 10 cm (about 13″ × 4″). I rip them to width on the table saw and then use my table saw sled for the crosscuts so all pieces end up the same length and dead square.

Next, I take one of the three pieces and lay out the lines for the T-track. Using my router multipurpose jig, I route the dadoes that will form the sides of the track. To create the actual T-track, I glue two MDF strips into the side dadoes and clamp them in place until the glue dries.

Tip: Try to keep glue squeeze-out out of the central channel—if it runs into the middle, it’s quite annoying to clean later. You can optionally add a few screws for extra strength (make sure they’re flush).

Once the glue is dry, I run the assembled base over the table saw again, taking a very light pass on each side to clean and straighten the edges. Finally, I test the T-track with one of my DIY T-track bolts to make sure it slides smoothly without binding.

Step 2: Making the Thin Strip Jig Handle

For the handle, I start by cutting two plywood pieces and gluing them together. This blank defines the handle thickness at about 24 mm (roughly 15/16″). Once the glue dries, I cut one end of the blank at a slight angle—so when the handle is mounted on the jig, it leans outwards slightly instead of standing straight up. That small tilt makes the grip much more natural.

With the blank cut to length, I shape the handle. You can round over the edges, soften the corners, and slightly curve the profile—whatever feels best in your hand. After shaping, I glue the handle onto a thin plywood base (about 6.5 mm / 1/4″ thick) and add a screw from the bottom for extra strength.

This plywood base is what actually mounts to the jig. It sits over the T-track and is secured with T-track bolts and wing nuts, so you can slide the handle forward or backward as needed and remove it easily for storage or adjustments.

Step 3: Making the Hold-Down Clamp

The hold-down clamp is what keeps the workpiece pressed firmly to the base, so your hands can stay safely on the handle. I start by cutting all the plywood and MDF pieces to size (dimensions from the materials/cut list).

The main vertical piece is cut from plywood. In this part, I carve a hexagon recess to capture a bolt head—this becomes the backbone of the clamp. With the bolt locked into that hexagon and a wing nut on top, the hold-down can move up and down so you can adjust it to different workpiece thicknesses.

The actual clamping face that presses on the workpiece is made from a mix of plywood and thinner MDF. It attaches to the vertical piece and slides up and down along it. That way, you can quickly dial in just enough pressure to hold the strip.

The lower support piece—the one that attaches directly to the jig base—is also made from plywood. Both this base piece and the movable vertical piece get a slot routed through them using my multipurpose router jig. That slot lets the clamp slide along the T-track on the jig base so you can position it exactly where you need it relative to the blade and the fence.

Step 4: Making the Back Stopper

The back stopper gives the workpiece something solid to register against. It’s made from two plywood pieces joined at 90°.

The horizontal piece sits over the T-track and is what attaches to the jig base. The vertical piece sits behind the jig base and supports the workpiece from the back. I joined these two pieces together at a right angle using two screws.

The whole back stopper assembly attaches to the T-track with a bolt and wing nut, so you can slide it sideways to set the exact strip width—from just a few millimetres up to a few centimetres.

This is what the finished thin strip jig looks like:

Setting Up and Using the Thin Strip Jig

With this jig, you can make repeatable cuts that produce uniform thin strips without constantly touching the fence. The idea is simple: the distance between the blade and the jig defines your strip width, and everything else just keeps the workpiece stable and your hands safe.

1. Set the Strip Width

First, you set the width of the strip you want to cut:

Adjust the table saw fence to roughly where you want it.
Place the thin strip jig against the fence.
Measure the space between the blade and the face of the jig.
Fine-tune the fence until this gap matches your desired strip width.
Lock the fence in position—this stays fixed while you cut all your strips.

Once the fence is locked, you don’t move it again. The jig and back stopper define exactly how wide each thin strip will be.

2. Adjust the Back Stopper and Hold-Down Clamp

Before cutting, there are two main components to set up on the jig:

Set the back stopper
- Slide the back stopper along the T-track so it supports the strip you are cutting,
  but doesn’t interfere with the saw blade.
- Tighten the bolt and wing nut to lock it in place.
Adjust the hold-down clamp
- Insert your workpiece into the jig in its cutting position.
- Slide the hold-down clamp down until it just touches the top of the workpiece.
- Tighten the wing nut so it applies a constant downward pressure during the cut.

This setup keeps the workpiece pressed to the base and supported from behind, which helps prevent chatter, shifting, and kickback.

3. Make the Cuts

Now you’re ready to start cutting thin strips:

Place your workpiece against the back stopper and under the hold-down clamp.
Start the saw and slowly slide the jig along the fence, letting the blade remove a thin strip between the jig and the blade.
For smaller pieces, use a push stick on the opposite side to help manage the offcut safely.
After each cut, slide the board back against the back stopper and repeat.

Because the fence and jig stay in the same position, every pass gives you thin strips of exactly the same width.

Wrap-Up: A Small Jig with a Lot of Use

Thin strips show up all over the workshop—inlays, edge banding, shims, spacers, frame parts, slats, trim pieces… I didn’t really appreciate how often I needed them until I started making more detailed projects. Before this jig, cutting thin strips always felt like one of those “hope it goes well” operations.

The jig is quick to make, doesn’t use much material, and once it’s built, the setup is really fast: I set the strip width once, adjust the back stopper and hold-down clamp, and then just feed boards through. The adjustability means I can use it with different stock thicknesses and cut anything from tiny inlay strips to wider slats—all while keeping my hands on the handle and away from the blade.

👉 If you enjoyed this build and want to upgrade your saw even more, check out my Best Table Saw Jigs for Your Workshop—this thin strip jig fits perfectly alongside sleds, crosscut jigs, and other helpers that make table saw work safer and more accurate.

📌 Ready to build it?
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DIY Table Saw Thin Strip Jig — adjustable jig for cutting uniform thin strips on the table saw.

FAQs: Table Saw Thin Strip Jig

1. Is a thin strip jig safer than cutting thin strips against the fence?

Yes, in my experience it’s much safer. With a thin strip jig, the workpiece is held down and supported from behind, and your hands stay on the handle instead of near the blade. You’re not trapping a thin offcut between the blade and fence, which is where burning and kickback usually happen.

2. How thin can I safely cut strips with this jig?

It depends on your saw and blade, but with a good setup you can cut strips down to just a few millimetres (around 1/16″–1/8″). The key is to keep the hold-down clamp adjusted properly and use a sharp, clean blade. For anything extremely thin, take your time and don’t force the cut.

3. What blade should I use for cutting thin strips?

I get the best results with a sharp, fine-tooth blade (for example, a combination or crosscut blade with more teeth). A clean, sharp blade reduces burning and tear-out on very narrow pieces. Whatever blade you use, make sure it’s properly aligned and not dull—that makes a big difference.

4. Can I use this thin strip jig on different board thicknesses?

Yes, that’s the idea. The jig is adjustable: you can slide the hold-down clamp up or down to match the thickness of your workpiece, and move the back stopper along the T-track to set different strip widths. That way you can use the same jig for everything from thin stock and inlay pieces to thicker boards.

This post How to Build a Table Saw Thin Strip Jig (Safe, Repeatable Thin Rips) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

How to Cut a Perfect Juice Groove in a Cutting Board (Step-by-Step Guide)

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 01 Jan 2026 14:00:00 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

How to Cut a Perfect Juice Groove in a Cutting Board (Step-by-Step Guide)

Cutting a juice groove usually comes right at the end of the build. You’ve already done all the glue-ups, flattened the board, trimmed it to final size, sanded it smooth… and then you pick up a router and start cutting a groove just a few millimeters from the edge. It’s a small detail, but it’s also one of the easiest moments to ruin an otherwise perfect cutting board.

I have been there – I ruined a few boards exactly at this stage—slipping off the path, letting the router grab, or burning the corners so badly that sanding them out destroyed the shape of the groove. After all the work that goes into an end grain or edge grain board, it’s not a fun way to finish. That’s why, over time, I moved to the safest, most repeatable setup I could come up with.

In this guide, I’ll walk you through how I now cut juice grooves so they’re clean, consistent, and low-risk. The key pieces are: using a juice groove jig instead of freehanding, choosing the right router bit, and paying close attention to cutting direction and depth. Let me share what’s worked for me so your groove comes out smooth the first time.

👉 If you want to see the exact setup I use in my own shop, you can check out my DIY Juice Groove Jig—it’s the same jig I rely on for most of my cutting board builds.

1. What Is a Juice Groove (And When Do You Need One?)
2. Ideal Juice Groove Dimensions (Depth, Width, and Offset)
3. Tools and Jigs You Need to Cut a Juice Groove
4. Step-by-Step: How to Cut a Perfect Juice Groove with a Router and Jig
  Step 1: Set Up the Juice Groove Jig
  Step 2: Install the Router Bit and Set the First Depth
  Step 3: Make the First Shallow Clockwise Pass
  Step 4: Deepen the Groove in Several Passes
  Step 5: Clean Up the Groove and Ease the Edges
5. How to Avoid Burn Marks and Tear-Out
6. Using a Juice Groove Jig vs. Freehand or Fence
7. Wrap-Up: Why a Juice Groove Jig Is Worth It
8. FAQs: Juice Grooves on Cutting Boards

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Perfect Juice Groove in a Cutting Board — clean rounded groove cut with a router, core box bit, and jig.

What Is a Juice Groove (And When Do You Need One?)

A juice groove is the shallow channel you see running around the edge of some cutting boards. Its main job is simple: catch liquids before they run off the board and onto your counter. When you’re carving a roast, slicing steak, cutting tomatoes, or prepping juicy fruit, the groove gives that extra bit of “overflow space” so everything stays a little cleaner.

You don’t need a juice groove on every board. It makes the most sense on:

Carving boards for meat and BBQ
Larger everyday prep boards that see a lot of veggies and fruit
Any board you know will live on the counter during bigger cooks

On the other hand, I usually skip a groove on small breakfast boards, cheese boards, bread boards, or simple serving boards. In those cases it doesn’t add much function, and a clean, flat surface often just looks better.

So the question isn’t “Should every board get a juice groove?” but rather “What will I actually use this board for?” If it’s going to see a lot of juicy stuff, a well-cut groove is worth the extra effort. If not, you can happily leave it off and keep the build simpler.

Ideal Juice Groove Dimensions (Depth, Width, and Offset)

You don’t need complicated math for a good juice groove, but a few simple rules help a lot. On most of my larger boards (around 500 × 300 mm / 20″ × 12″), I usually go with:

Groove depth: about 5 mm (≈ 3/16″)
Groove width / bit size: 10 mm (≈ 3/8″) core box bit
Offset from edge (to the outside of the groove): about 15 mm (≈ 5/8″)

That puts the center of the groove roughly 20 mm (≈ 3/4″) from the edge, which feels nicely balanced and still leaves plenty of material so the edge stays strong.

I generally avoid going any closer than 15 mm / 5/8″ on bigger boards, because the fibers near the edge can start to tear, chip, or just look too fragile. On smaller boards, I might move the groove in slightly (closer to 10–12 mm / 3/8″–1/2″ from the edge) and also make it a bit shallower—more for looks and light use than for catching a lot of juice. In the end, there’s some personal preference involved, but staying within a sensible range keeps your boards looking clean and solid.

Here’s a simple guide you can use as a starting point:

Board Size	Typical Use	Groove Width (Bit)	Groove Depth	Offset from Edge (to Groove Edge)
Small (~350 × 250 mm / ~14" × 10")	Breakfast, fruit, light prep	10 mm (≈ 3/8") core box bit	3–4 mm (≈ 1/8"–5/32")	10–12 mm (≈ 3/8"–1/2")
Medium (~400 × 280 mm / ~16" × 11")	Everyday cutting board	10 mm (≈ 3/8") core box bit	4–5 mm (≈ 5/32"–3/16")	12–15 mm (≈ 1/2"–5/8")
Large (~500 × 300 mm / ~20" × 12")	Carving & BBQ board	10 mm (≈ 3/8") core box bit	5–6 mm (≈ 3/16"–1/4")	15–20 mm (≈ 5/8"–3/4")

Treat these as starting points: go shallower and a bit closer to the edge for small serving boards, and deeper with a larger offset for big carving boards that need to catch a lot of juice.

Tools and Jigs You Need to Cut a Juice Groove

You don’t need a full shop to cut a clean juice groove, but a few right tools make it much safer and more repeatable. The core is a handheld router—a trim router is enough for most boards—as long as you can set depth accurately. For the bit, I like a 10 mm (≈ 3/8″) core box / round nose bit. It leaves a smooth, rounded groove that looks great on both edge and end grain boards.

The big choice is how you guide the router. An edge guide or fence can work if you only cut the occasional groove, but corners are fiddly, and any small slip can send the bit off the path and ruin a finished board. For me, that’s just too much risk.

I strongly prefer a dedicated juice groove jig, especially one that’s adjustable. A good jig should:

Have a flat, hard, straight base for the cutting board to sit on so it stays level
Secure the board in place (with stops, wedges, or double-sided tape) so it can’t shift mid-cut
Let you adjust the offset from the edge for different groove layouts
Accommodate cutting boards of different sizes without rebuilding the setup each time
Work with both thin and thick boards

Once the board is secured in the jig and the offset is set, your main job is to make steady passes with the router and let the jig keep everything on track. On top of that, you’ll want clamps to lock the jig to your bench, plus dust extraction and basic PPE—routing hardwood grooves creates a lot of fine dust in a very small area. Check out all the tools I use in my workshop.

👉 Have a look at my DIY Juice Groove Jig—it’s built to tick all of these boxes.

Step-by-Step: How to Cut a Perfect Juice Groove with a Router and Jig

There are a few different ways to cut a juice groove, but if you want the safest and most repeatable method, an adjustable juice groove jig + router is hard to beat. Here’s exactly how I use mine.

1. Set Up the Juice Groove Jig

First, I place the juice groove jig on my workbench and secure it with clamps so it can’t move. Then I drop the cutting board into the jig and slide the movable fences in so they sit snugly around the board.

On my jig, there’s already a default offset built in for my DeWalt palm router, but I can easily adjust it by adding an extra layer or spacer between the fences and the board. That way I can set different offsets depending on the board size or the look I’m after. Once I’m happy with the position, I tighten the fence clamps so everything is locked in place and the board can’t shift.

2. Install the Router Bit and Set the First Depth

Next, I set up the router. I install a 10 mm (≈ 3/8″) round juice groove / core box bit and set the depth for a shallow first pass, usually around 2 mm (≈ 1/16″). This first pass is just to establish the groove and check that the offset and depth feel right before going any deeper.

3. Make the First Shallow Pass (Clockwise)

Now it’s time to cut. Because this is an inner cut, I always route clockwise around the board. That gives better control and keeps the router from grabbing and jumping out of the groove.

For the cleanest results, I try not to “stab” the bit straight down. Instead, I start moving in the direction of the cut while lowering the bit into the wood. That little motion helps avoid burn marks and reduces the chance of leaving a visible entry spot. From there, I keep a smooth, steady feed rate and avoid stopping in one place—especially in the corners. The more “fluid” and continuous the cut, the fewer burn marks you’ll have to deal with later.

I complete one full loop around the board at this shallow depth before touching the depth adjustment again.

4. Deepen the Groove in Several Passes

After the first pass, I increase the depth slightly and repeat the cut. I keep doing this in several shallow passes until I reach my target depth from the dimension guidelines (for most of my boards, that’s around 5 mm / 3/16″).

Multiple shallow passes mean:

Cleaner cuts
Less burning, especially in hardwoods
More control if something doesn’t feel right

Between passes, I’ll vacuum or brush out the chips so they don’t pack into the groove and affect the cut quality.

5. Clean Up and Ease the Edges

When I’m happy with the depth and the groove looks even all the way around, I vacuum the groove thoroughly and check for any ridges or small steps. If needed, I do a very light hand-sanding inside the groove using a rolled-up piece of sandpaper, or a Dremel with a light touch just to knock back any rough spots.

Finally, I give the board surface a quick pass with a sanding block or sander to remove any fuzz around the groove. In most cases, you’ll be sanding the whole board again before oiling anyway, so this step just blends everything together.

The finished juice groove:

How to Avoid Burn Marks and Tear-Out

Burn marks and tear-out usually come from some mix of too much RPM, too little feed rate, a dull or dirty bit, or an unstable setup. Most of it is easy to control once you know what to watch for.

Problem	Most Likely Cause	How to Avoid It	How to Fix It Afterwards
Burn marks along straight sections	Router RPM too high and feed rate too slow; bit slightly dull or dirty	- Drop the router speed to a medium setting - Keep a steady, slightly faster feed rate - Make multiple shallow passes instead of one deep cut	- Try one very light final pass with faster feed - If still visible, sand the groove lightly with rolled sandpaper or a Dremel with a fine drum
Burn marks in the corners	Pausing in the corner or “pivoting” the router in one spot	- Plan the cut so corners are part of a continuous motion - Don’t stop in the corners—keep the router moving - Take shallow passes so turning the corners feels easier	- Hand-sand just the corners with fine grit wrapped around a dowel - If needed, one last shallow pass focusing on a smooth corner motion
Rough surface / chatter in the groove	Feed rate too fast, router unstable, or bit not fully tightened	- Slow down slightly and keep both hands steady on the router - Make sure the base rides flat on the jig rails - Double-check the bit is fully seated and tightened	- Lightly sand the groove with rolled sandpaper or a fine drum - On deep chatter, take one shallow clean-up pass at a slower, steady feed
Tear-out on the board edge	Unsupported fibers at the edge, aggressive depth, or wrong cut direction	- Keep a safe offset (don’t run the groove too close to the edge) - Use multiple shallow passes - Ensure the board is well supported and the jig is stable	- Soften the edge with sanding or a light chamfer/roundover - For minor chips, blend them into the profile rather than chasing them out
Router “jumps” or wanders in the groove	Board not secured well enough or trying to freehand part of the cut	- Make sure the board is firmly secured in the jig (stops + tape/clamps) - Let the jig guide the router—no freehand corrections mid-cut	- If wander is minor, blend with sanding and a very light clean-up pass - If it’s severe, consider making a slightly wider groove or turning the board into a smaller project

Most of the time, dialing in speed, depth, and a stable jig will eliminate burn marks and tear-out before they start. And if you do get a few marks, a light clean-up pass and some careful sanding usually save the board.

Using a Juice Groove Jig vs. Freehand or Fence

In the steps above I focused straight on the juice groove jig, because that’s what I actually use in the shop and what I recommend if you want clean, repeatable results. But it’s still useful to see how it compares to the other options you might be considering.

Here’s the short version:

1. Juice Groove Jig

Fastest and most repeatable option
Same offset every time, less layout and marking
Board is secured and supported the whole way
Ideal if you build multiple boards or want a “pro” setup

2. Router Fence / Straight Edge

Works for one or two boards
Requires more marking, measuring, and clamping
Corners are tricky if fences aren’t connected
Any slip or shift can send the bit off the path

3. Freehand (no guide)

Technically possible, but I wouldn’t recommend it
Very hard to keep a clean offset and straight lines
One small mistake can ruin a finished board in a second

If you only cut a juice groove occasionally, you can get by with a fence and careful layout. However, if you’re selling boards, gifting boards regularly, or making a small batch for friends and family, a dedicated jig really pays off.

Wrap-Up: Why a Juice Groove Jig Is Worth It

I add a juice groove on almost every cutting board I make, except for small serving boards. A clean groove, together with a good finish, gives the board that “completed” look—it frames the surface, makes it feel more premium, and it’s genuinely useful when you’re carving meat or cutting juicy ingredients. The flip side is that this is also the stage where you can ruin a finished board in a few seconds. After all the milling, glue-ups, flattening, and sanding, cutting the groove is one of the most delicate steps in the whole build.

That’s why I like using a juice groove jig. Yes, you can cut a groove with a simple straight edge, and that might be okay if you only make one or two boards a year, but the setup is fussy and the risk of a slip is high. Freehand, I honestly wouldn’t recommend at all. With a good jig, you can secure the board, set the offset, and “just” focus on making smooth passes. It’s repeatable, it’s safer, and your results stay consistent from board to board. You can also play with different offsets and depths to match different board sizes and styles without redesigning your setup every time.

👉 It’s definitely worth having a juice groove jig. Anyway, also, check out my Best Jigs for Making Cutting Boards guide—it’s not only about the juice groove jig; all of these jigs work together to make the whole cutting board process easier, safer, and more fun.

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How to Cut a Juice Groove — step-by-step guide using a router and adjustable juice groove jig.

FAQs: Juice Grooves on Cutting Boards

1. Do I really need a juice groove on my cutting board?

Not always. Juice grooves are most useful on carving and BBQ boards, or larger everyday boards that see a lot of meat, tomatoes, and fruit. For bread, cheese, or small serving boards, a flat surface is usually enough and often looks cleaner.

2. How deep should a juice groove be?

For most boards, 3–6 mm (≈ 1/8″–1/4″) works well. On smaller boards used for light prep, you can stay on the shallow side. On larger carving boards, going closer to 5–6 mm (≈ 3/16″–1/4″) gives you more capacity without weakening the edge.

3. How far from the edge should the juice groove be?

As a rule of thumb, keep the outer edge of the groove about 10–20 mm (≈ 3/8″–3/4″) from the board edge, depending on the board size. I typically use 15 mm (≈ 5/8″) on larger boards, with the groove center around 20 mm (≈ 3/4″) in from the edge. Going too close risks tear-out and a fragile edge.

4. What router bit is best for cutting a juice groove?

A core box / round nose bit is the classic choice. I usually use a 10 mm (≈ 3/8″) bit, which leaves a smooth, rounded channel that’s easy to clean and looks good on both edge and end grain boards.

5. How do I stop the router from burning the wood?

Use medium RPM and multiple shallow passes, and keep a steady feed rate—don’t pause in one spot, especially in the corners. A clean, sharp bit and a stable jig also help. If you still get burn marks, a very light final pass with a slightly faster feed and some hand sanding usually cleans them up.

6. Can I add a juice groove after the board is already finished and oiled?

You can, but it’s not ideal. It’s always better to cut the groove before final sanding and finish. If you add one later, you’ll need to re-sand around the groove and re-oil/wax the board so everything blends together and the finish looks even.

This post How to Cut a Perfect Juice Groove in a Cutting Board (Step-by-Step Guide) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

DIY End Grain Cutting Board: Complete Step-by-Step Build Guide

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 25 Dec 2025 14:00:00 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

DIY End Grain Cutting Board: Complete Step-by-Step Build Guide

An end grain cutting board is one of those projects that instantly feels like a step up. Instead of the fibers running along the surface like on a face-grain or edge-grain board, the grain points straight up. That makes the board more knife-friendly, durable, and naturally resistant to wear, which is why end grain is often the go-to choice for a “forever” cutting board.

In this build, I’m making a basic end grain cutting board from rough walnut slabs. The board is made from walnut only, with a mix of heartwood and sapwood that gives it a natural color variation and a really high-end, prestige look once it’s oiled and waxed. The final dimensions are roughly 48 × 32 cm (18 7/8″ × 12 5/8″) and 3.5 cm (1 3/8″) thick, so it’s solid, heavy, and feels very stable on the counter. I’m starting from raw slabs, so you’ll also see the full process of prepping the wood before we even start building the actual board.

Throughout the build, I’m using several of my own jigs to keep everything safe and repeatable: a table saw sled, jointer sled, router flattening jig, juice groove jig, handle jig, and a sanding block. This board is the “core” end grain build – more advanced patterns like an ombré or chaotic board add extra cutting and glue-ups, but the foundation is exactly what you’ll see here.

If you want a quick overview of all the jigs that make cutting board builds easier, check out my guide to the best jigs for making cutting boards before you dive in.

Tools and Materials
Why Build an End Grain Cutting Board?
Let’s Start Building!
Step 1: Preparing and Cleaning the Boards
Step 2: Cutting Wood Strips and Arranging the Final Design
Step 3: Gluing Up the Edge Grain Panel
Step 4: Crosscutting the Panels and Preparing the End Grain Layout
Step 5: Flattening and Trimming the Cutting Board
Step 6: Cutting the Juice Groove, Routing the Handles, and Beveling the Edges
Step 7: Sanding, Oiling, Waxing, and Adding Rubber Feet
How to Care for an End Grain Cutting Board
Wrap-Up: A Solid First End Grain Cutting Board
End Grain Cutting Board FAQs

Materials and Tools

Here’s everything I used to build the walnut end grain cutting board. Some tools are optional, but they definitely make the job easier.

Materials:

Walnut
Wood Glue – Wood Glue
Cutting Board Oil – Cutting Board Oil
Cutting Board Rubber Feet – Rubber Feet
Sandpaper Sheets – Sandpaper Sheets
Sanding Discs – Sanding Discs

Tools:

Table Saw – Table Saw
Planer – Planer
Router – Router
Orbit Sander – Orbit Sander
Hand Drill – Hand Drill
Glue Gun – Glue Gun
Bessey Parallel Clamps – Parallel Clamps
F-Clamps – F-Clamps
Piher One Hand Clamps – Piher One Hand Clamps
Wolfcraft One Hand Clamps – Wolfcraft One Hand Clamps
T-Track Clamps – T-Track Clamps
Dovetail Clamps – Dovetail Clamps
Dovetail Hardware (Bolts) – Dovetail Hardware

Tools:

Table Saw Blade – Table Saw Blade
Grr-Ripper Push Block – Grr-Ripper Push Block
Router Flattening Bit – Router Flattening Bit
Router Juice Groove Bit – Juice Groove Bit
Router Straight Bit – Straight Bit
Chamfer Router Bit – Chamfer Bit
Bench Cookies – Bench Cookies
Machinist Square – Machinist Square
Double-Sided Woodworking Tape – Woodworking Tape
Wood Scraper – Wood Scraper
Silicon Glue Brush – Silicon Glue Brush
Painters Tape – Painters Tape
Dust Respirator – Dust Respirator
Respirator Cartridge – Respirator Cartridge
Eye Protection – Eye Protection

Check All the Tools I Use

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DIY End Grain Cutting Board — step-by-step walnut cutting board build from rough slabs to finished board.

Why Build an End Grain Cutting Board?

If you already have a simple face-grain or edge-grain board, an end grain cutting board is a natural next step. With the grain pointing up, the knife slides between the fibers instead of cutting across them, so the surface is gentler on knife edges, more durable, and less likely to show deep cuts.

It does take more time and a couple of extra glue-ups, but you get a heavier, more stable board that feels “pro” on the counter and can be resurfaced and re-oiled for years. If you’re still deciding which style to start with, have a look at my guide Face vs. Edge vs. End Grain: Which Cutting Board Should You Make? – it walks through the main differences, pros, and cons of each type.

For a first end grain project, this build is a good choice because:

You’re working with one species (walnut), so layout stays simple.
The pattern is clean and classic, without complex re-cuts.
You learn the core end grain workflow you’ll reuse later for ombré, chaotic, or more advanced boards.

Let’s Start Building!

For this project, I’m starting with rough walnut slabs, so the first part of the build is all about preparing the stock: cleaning up the edges, getting a straight reference side, and bringing everything to a consistent thickness. Once the slabs are milled, we rip them into strips, plane them, glue up an edge-grain panel, then crosscut it into blocks, rotate them so the end grain faces up, and glue everything again into a solid end grain blank.

When the blank is dry, we flatten it with a router flattening jig, trim it to final size, and focus on the details that make the board feel finished: cutting a juice groove, routing two underside handles, beveling the edges with a chamfer bit, and sanding everything smooth. In the last step, we bring the walnut to life with food-safe oil and wax and add rubber feet so the board stays stable on the counter and can dry properly between uses.

How to Make an End Grain Cutting Board (Step-by-Step Guide)

Step 1: Preparing and Cleaning the Boards

I’m starting with two rough walnut slabs. They’re thick, a bit twisted, and have a few cracks, so the first step is all about getting them into a clean, workable state before we cut any strips. I begin by crosscutting the slabs into shorter pieces, cutting out the worst cracks and defects so I’m left with solid sections that are easier to handle.

Next, I focus on getting a straight reference edge. I use my jointer sled to straighten one side of each board, which makes a big difference later when ripping consistent strips. Once I’m happy with the edge, I hot-glue each board to a larger, flat carrier board and run it through the planer. The carrier board keeps everything stable, prevents the piece from rocking, and helps remove any warp or twist. After one face is flat, I peel the boards off, flip them, and plane the other side down to final thickness.

If needed, I’ll give the edges one more light pass on the jointer sled so everything is straight and square. At this point, the walnut boards are clean, flat, and ready to be cut into strips for the first glue-up.

TIP: I don’t cut off the cracked ends at this stage, even if they’re not usable in the final board. Any snipe from the planer usually happens at the ends, so I let it hit the sections I’ll sacrifice anyway and trim them off later.

Step 2: Cutting Wood Strips and Arranging the Final Design

With the walnut boards flat and clean, it’s time to rip them into strips. I set up the table saw so the width of each strip matches the current thickness of the boards, aiming for a square profile in the final glue-up. I actually add a tiny bit of extra width to account for flattening later – we’ll lose a bit of material when we level the board, so it’s better to be slightly oversize at this stage. Then I run all the boards through the saw and cut them into consistent strips.

Once all the strips are cut, I lay them out on the bench and start playing with the pattern. Because these slabs include both heartwood and sapwood, it’s easy to build a nice contrast just by shuffling the strips around. Here I also pay attention to the “smiles and frowns” in the grain – alternating the orientation of the growth rings helps balance internal tension and reduces the risk of cupping later on. When I’m happy with the layout, I double-check the transitions between light and dark pieces and make sure the overall look feels balanced.

Note: Once you apply oil and wax, the colors and grain will really pop, so even a simple pattern in walnut can look surprisingly rich and detailed.

Step 3: Gluing Up the Edge Grain Panel

With the pattern set, it’s time to glue the strips into an edge grain panel. I start by getting all my clamps ready – I like using Bessey clamps because they’re strong and keep the pressure nice and even (and they are actually parallel 😊). Before I lay the strips down, I run masking tape along the clamp bars. When the glue squeezes out, it tends to drip on the bars and can be a pain to remove; with tape, you just peel it off when you’re done.

I place the strips on the clamps in the exact order of the design, then apply wood glue to each edge and spread it evenly with a silicone brush. Once everything is coated, I bring the strips together, tighten the clamps gradually, and check that the panel stays flat and the joints are tight. After the glue has fully cured, I remove the panel from the clamps and use a scraper to clean off the dried squeeze-out.

Only then do I run the panel through the planer to flatten both faces and bring it to the same thickness.

TIP: Remove as much dried glue as you can before planing. Hardened glue can damage planer knives or leave tracks on the surface.

Step 4: Crosscutting the Panels and Preparing the End Grain Layout

With the edge grain panel flattened, it’s time to turn it into end grain blocks. I start by cutting off the sacrificial ends of the panel using my table saw sled – this removes any planer snipe and cracked sections we left on purpose earlier. Then I set the fence and crosscut the panel into strips about 3.8 cm (1 1/2″) wide. After final flattening, the board will end up a little thinner, but this gives us a good starting point for a solid, chunky end grain board.

Once all the strips are cut, I stand them on edge with the end grain facing up and begin laying out the final pattern. Each strip can be flipped and rotated, which gives you a certain number of combinations even with a simple walnut-only build. You can keep the pattern very clean and regular, or mix in a bit of variation by flipping every second or third strip. When I’m happy with the layout, I bring in the clamps, add glue to all mating faces, and glue up the final end grain panel.

Note: During this glue-up, take your time to align the blocks as tightly and as flat as possible. The squares should sit neatly next to each other with minimal offset, and the panel should stay as flat as you can manage in the clamps. The better the alignment now, the less flattening and sanding you’ll need later.

If you want to see the sled I use for these cuts, check out my build of the table saw sled I use for crosscutting panels like this.

Step 5: Flattening and Trimming the Cutting Board

Once the final glue-up is fully cured, it’s time to flatten the board and bring it to final size. This is the step where the rough, blocky panel turns into a clean, squared cutting board. I start by removing as much dried glue as possible with a scraper so I don’t hit hardened glue with the bit. Then I place the board in my router flattening jig – for end grain, this is the safest and most reliable way to flatten a board. Running an end grain board through a planer can cause nasty tear-out or even damage the machine, so I avoid that completely here.

Using a router flattening bit, I take shallow passes and slowly work across the surface until the entire top is flat. Then I flip the board and repeat the process on the other side so both faces end up even and parallel. To square the board, I’ll use a jointer sled if the edges are still too rough, just to get one clean reference edge.

From there, I move to the table saw sled to trim the ends and square up the remaining sides. By the end of this step, all corners are clean, the board is perfectly rectangular, and it’s ready for the detail work in the next stages.

If you’d like to build the same jigs I’m using here, check out my builds for the Router Flattening Jig and the Jointer Sled for the Table Saw – both make this part of the process much safer and more accurate.

Step 6: Cutting the Juice Groove, Routing the Handles, and Beveling the Edges

I start by sanding the surface to remove the router marks. End grain takes longer to sand than face or edge grain, so it’s worth taking your time and working through the grits.

Next, I clamp the board in my juice groove jig and cut the groove with a router. I take slow, controlled passes and always move clockwise when routing inside the border to keep the router from grabbing.

TIP: On end grain, use lower RPMs and several shallow passes—it’s tougher material and burns easily, especially in the corners.

After the groove is done, I switch to a 45° bevel (chamfer) bit and ease the outside edges, routing counter-clockwise around the board and taking light passes to avoid tear-out. Once the bevels are cut, I flip the board over and cut the handles using my router handle jig. I center the jig on the underside, align it with the edges, and use a straight bit to rout recesses about 8 mm deep, just enough for a comfortable grip once the rubber feet are on. I repeat the same process on the opposite side and finish up with a sanding block and higher-grit paper.

Check out my DIY Juice Groove Jig, which makes this step much more controlled and repeatable on heavy end grain boards.

Step 7: Sanding, Oiling, Waxing, and Adding Rubber Feet

With all the routing done, I move on to the final surface prep and finish. I sand from 80 up to 600 grit, adjusting the sander speed as I go and vacuuming dust between grits. After about 200 grit, I lightly mist the surface with water to raise the grain, then continue sanding through the higher grits until the board feels soft and smooth. Using bench cookies here makes it much easier to reach all sides while keeping the board stable and in place.

Then I oil the board. This is where the walnut really comes alive—dark tones deepen, lighter areas pop. I use Clark’s (food-safe) cutting board oil, and it’s good to remember that end grain drinks a lot of oil, so expect several generous coats. Once the oil has soaked in and any excess is wiped off, I flip the board over, mark the positions for the rubber feet with a ruler marking gauge, pre-drill, and install the feet.

As a final step, I apply wax, buff it to a soft sheen, and the end grain cutting board is ready for the kitchen.

And this is what the finished board looks like.

How to Care for an End Grain Cutting Board

A well-made end grain cutting board can last for years, but it does need a bit of regular care. After each use, wipe it down with warm water and a small amount of mild dish soap, then rinse quickly and dry it with a towel. Don’t soak it in the sink and never put it in the dishwasher—heat and standing water are the fastest ways to warp or crack any wooden board. When you’re done, let it dry standing up or on its feet so air can circulate around both sides.

Over time, the surface will start to look a bit dry or lighter in color. That’s your sign it needs more oil and wax. How often depends on how much you use it—anything from once a month to every few months is normal. When the board starts to feel rough or “fuzzy” after washing, you can give it a quick refresh:

Lightly sand with a fine grit (220+).
Vacuum or wipe off the dust.
Re-apply cutting board oil until the surface stops soaking it in.
Finish with a thin coat of wax and buff.

Keep up with regular sanding and oiling, avoid standing water, and let the board dry properly between uses.

Wrap-Up: A Solid First End Grain Cutting Board

End grain cutting boards are a step up from face grain and edge grain—both in durability and in how they look and feel on the counter. There are lots of designs you can explore later (ombré, chaotic, basket weave…), but this build is the core pattern they all start from. The “fancier” versions simply add extra cuts and glue-ups on top of what you did here.

A walnut end grain board is hard to beat. The moment you pour oil on it, the grain and color jump out—deep browns, lighter sapwood, and all the tiny end grain details suddenly come alive. If you build and use a few simple jigs (flattening jig, juice groove jig, handle jig, sanding block, table saw sled, jointer sled), the whole process becomes easier, safer, and more repeatable.

If you’re brand new to cutting boards, it still makes sense to start with a face grain or edge grain board, then move up to this basic end grain. Once you’re comfortable with the workflow, you can push into more advanced end grain patterns. With a bit of care, a board like this can easily last for many years.

👉 To see all the jigs I rely on for cutting boards, take a look at my guide to the Best Jigs for Making Cutting Boards.

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How to Make an End Grain Cutting Board — walnut board with a juice groove, routed handles, and beveled edges.

End Grain Cutting Board FAQs

1. What is an end grain cutting board and why is it popular?

An end grain cutting board is made from blocks with the grain pointing up, so your knife slides between the wood fibers instead of cutting across them. That makes the board more knife-friendly, durable, and naturally self-healing compared to face grain or edge grain.

2. What is the best wood for an end grain cutting board?

Hard, tight-grained hardwoods are best: walnut, maple, beech, and cherry are all great choices. They’re hard enough to hold up in the kitchen, but not so hard that they destroy your knives. Avoid very soft woods and open-pore species that can trap moisture and food.

3. How thick should an end grain cutting board be?

For most kitchen boards, a thickness of around 3–4 cm (1 1/4″–1 1/2″) works really well. It feels solid on the counter, resists warping, and is still light enough to move and clean without too much effort.

4. What glue should I use for an end grain cutting board?

Use a water-resistant, food-safe wood glue, such as Titebond III or an equivalent. It’s designed for cutting board and outdoor use, handles repeated washing, and is widely used by woodworkers for butcher blocks and end grain boards.

5. How often should I oil and wax an end grain cutting board?

It depends on how often you use it. As a general rule, oil and wax the board whenever it starts to look dry, dull, or feels rough—for many kitchens, that’s about once a month at first, then less often as the board gets saturated. End grain absorbs more oil than face or edge grain, so don’t be afraid to apply several generous coats.

6. Can I run an end grain cutting board through a planer to flatten it?

It’s not recommended. Running end grain through a planer can cause severe tear-out or even damage the machine. Instead, use a router flattening jig or hand tools (and sanding) to bring the board flat in a controlled way.

This post DIY End Grain Cutting Board: Complete Step-by-Step Build Guide first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

DIY Hexagon Jig for Table Saw (Make Perfect Hexagons Easily)

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 23 Oct 2025 14:00:00 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

DIY Hexagon Jig for Table Saw (Make Perfect Hexagons Easily)

I’m a big fan of modular jigs—simple add-ons that expand what your tools can do without taking up extra space. This hexagon jig is exactly that. It’s an attachment for my table saw sled that lets me cut perfect, repeatable hexagons with ease.

I built it when I needed a fast, accurate way to make geometric pieces for a few projects. Instead of building a separate jig, I designed this one to bolt right onto my existing sled. When I need it, I mount it; when I’m done, I remove it and store it flat.

The back fence is fixed at 120° to the blade, which keeps every cut precise and consistent. It’s compact, quick to set up, and adds a ton of versatility to the sled system. If you haven’t built your sled yet, start with my guide on How to Make a Table Saw Sled—this jig builds directly on top of it.

Video – How to Make a Hexagon Jig for Table Saw

Here’s a quick video showing how I built this hexagon jig add-on and how it works on the table saw. You’ll see the setup, the angle alignment, and a few test cuts to get those perfect hexagons.

👉 Watch the full build on YouTube and don’t forget to subscribe for more DIY jigs and workshop projects.

Video
Materials and Tools
What Is a Hexagon Jig and Why Build One?
Let’s Start Building!
- Step 1: Cut the Blanks for the Hexagon Fence (T-Track)
- Step 2: Cut Dados and Assemble the T-Track Fence
- Step 3: Mount the Fence to the Table Saw Sled
- Step 4: Add the Stop and Hold-Down Clamps
How to Cut a Hexagon with a Hexagon Jig
Wrap-Up: A Simple, Accurate, and Reusable Add-On
FAQs

*Safety is your responsibility. Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first.

Materials and Tools

Before you start, make sure you have everything ready. The jig doesn’t require much material — just a few sheet pieces, some hardware, and basic tools you probably already have in your shop.

Wood / Sheet Goods

12 mm Plywood
MDF

Hardware

M6 Bolts and M6 Wingnuts
Wood Screws – link

Core Tools

Table Saw – link
Precision Miter Gauge – link
Trim Router – link
Hand Drill – link
Orbit Sander – link
Table Saw Blade – link

🛠 Check all the tools I use here.

Measuring & Setup

Machinist Square – link
Digital Angle Gauge – link
Speed Square – link

Clamping & Holding

Toggle Clamps – link
Mini Clamps – link
Spring Clamps – link
One-Hand Clamps – link
Push Block – link

Bits, Abrasives & Consumables

Straight Router Bit – link
Drill Bit Set – link
Sanding Discs – link
Sandpaper Sheets – link
Wood Glue – link
Silicon Glue Brush – link
Double-Sided Woodworking Tape – link

💡 Tip: I recommend checking your sled’s fence height before cutting the jig pieces — matching the height keeps everything aligned and makes the cuts cleaner.

Some of the links above are affiliate links. If you buy through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

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Save this project for later so you can add it to your own modular jig system.

What Is a Hexagon Jig and Why Build One?

A hexagon jig is a simple table saw accessory designed to cut perfect, repeatable hexagons at 120° angles. It ensures all six sides are identical and symmetrical without measuring or guessing each cut. If you often make geometric pieces, cutting boards, or decorative panels, this jig will save you time and improve precision.

Unlike standalone versions, this one mounts directly to your table saw sled, which makes it compact, modular, and easy to remove when not in use. It’s part of a larger sled system I use for many jigs in my shop.

Let's start building!

This jig works on a simple idea — the back fence is set at 120° to the saw blade, allowing you to cut perfect, repeatable hexagons just by rotating the workpiece and making six identical cuts.

It’s built from Baltic birch plywood, which gives the jig strength and stability, and features homemade T-tracks made from MDF. The entire setup attaches directly to your table saw sled with a single bolt and a pair of wing nuts. The height matches the sled fence, so the workpiece glides smoothly through each pass. When you’re done, just loosen the bolts and store it flat — it takes almost no space.

The key here is accuracy. Spend a few minutes setting the fence to a precise 120° using a digital angle gauge or machinist square, and you’ll get clean, consistent results every time.

How To Make a Hexagon Jig for Table Saw

Step 1: Prepare the Wood for the Hexagon Fence

Rip the main fence body from Baltic birch plywood to 450 × 55 × 12 mm. This strip will later receive dados that capture two MDF rails, forming your homemade T-track (for stops, hold-downs, and other accessories). For now, you’re just prepping blanks—no assembly yet.

Using the table saw sled, cut two narrow MDF strips that will become the T-track rails. Keep their widths consistent; it’s fine to leave them slightly oversized for now—we’ll sneak up on the final sliding fit after the dados are cut in the plywood.

💡 Pro tip: Mark a reference edge/face on the plywood body and both MDF rails. Keep those references against the fence for every cut—this preserves parallelism and makes the later dado fit-up far more predictable.

Step 2: Cut Dados and Assemble the T-Track Fence

Next, it’s time to turn the plywood blank into a working T-track fence. Start by using a marking gauge to mark the layout lines for three dados along the plywood strip. These will hold the MDF rails that form the sides of the track.

I cut all the dados with my multipurpose router jig — it’s quick, precise, and keeps the cuts perfectly parallel. Once the dados are done, lightly sand the grooves and clean up the ends with a chisel to remove the material the router couldn’t reach.

Test the fit with the MDF strips before gluing. The dado width should match the thickness of your MDF so everything stays flush. When satisfied with the fit, add a thin layer of glue inside the dados and insert the strips. Avoid using too much glue — if it squeezes into the track, it’s a pain to clean later. You can also add a few screws for extra strength if you like.

Drill a 6 mm hole through the center at one end of the track — this will later be used to attach the jig to the table saw sled. On the other end, bevel the edge closest to the blade to help remove sawdust while cutting. Then, at the far end of the fence, mark and cut a 120° angle on the table saw — this is the reference edge that will align with the sled fence.

💡 Tip: Don’t throw away the 120° cutoff piece — you’ll need it later when setting up the jig for your first hexagon cuts.

This is the same DIY T-track system I use in many of my builds — simple to make, strong, and fully compatible across multiple jigs. You can check out my step-by-step guide on How to Make a DIY T-Track for Woodworking if you’d like to add this setup to your own shop.

Step 3: Mount the Fence to the Table Saw Sled

With the T-track fence complete, it’s time to mount it onto the table saw sled. Start by aligning the 120° cut edge of the fence with the sled’s fence. This angle needs to be precise, so check that there’s a true 120° between the jig fence and the saw blade using a digital angle gauge.

Once aligned, temporarily fix the fence in place. I use a few plywood cutouts and double-sided tape to hold everything steady while I mark and drill. With the fence secured, extend the existing 6 mm hole through the sled base — this will serve as the mounting point.

Next, flip the sled upside down. Using a chisel, carve a hexagon recess around the drilled hole to fit the bolt head. The recess needs to be deep enough for the bolt head to sit flush or slightly below the sled’s surface. This ensures the sled slides smoothly across the table without obstruction.

After carving, insert the bolt from the bottom, position the fence on top, and secure it using a wing nut. Check the alignment one more time to confirm the 120° setup is still spot-on.

💡 Tip: Take your time with the alignment. Small errors at this stage will multiply across all six cuts when forming the hexagon.

Step 4: Add the Stop and Hold-Down Clamps

With the fence mounted and aligned, it’s time to add the accessories that make the jig truly functional — the stop block and the hold-down clamps. These are mounted directly into the homemade T-track, which allows for quick adjustment and reuse across other jigs in the workshop.

Install the hold-down clamps first. They’ll keep each workpiece firmly in position during cutting and prevent any movement. I’m using shop-made clamps, secured with homemade T-track bolts, standard bolts, and wing nuts — the same system I use across all my jigs.
Next, attach the stop block. Mine is made from plywood and lets me set the workpiece position for repeatable cuts of the same length. Just slide it to the desired spot, tighten it down, and you’re good to go.

Once both accessories are mounted, secure the outer end of the hexagon fence to the table saw’s fence. I use another pair of T-track bolts, a thin plywood strip, and wing nuts to lock it firmly in place. When everything is tightened, the jig sits solid and ready to cut.

💡 Tip: Keeping all your T-tracks the same size means your homemade bolts, clamps, and stops can be reused across different jigs — a huge time saver when switching setups.

How to Cut a Hexagon with a Hexagon Jig

Now that the jig is ready, here’s how to use it to cut clean, even hexagons on your table saw. The process is quick and repeatable once you have everything set.

🔧 Setup

Mount the jig to your table saw sled and secure it with the bolt and wing nut.
Insert the hold-down clamps into the T-track to keep your workpiece firmly in place.
Add the stop block into the same track and set the desired hexagon size. Tighten it down with a wing nut.
Take the 120° cutoff piece you saved earlier and place it between the stop block and your workpiece. This acts as a support wedge, ensuring perfect alignment.

🪚 Cutting the Hexagon

Make the first cut — align the edge of your board with the fence and make a clean pass. This defines your first 120° edge.
Rotate the workpiece to the next side, aligning it against the stop block and the cutoff wedge, and make the next cut.
Repeat the rotation and cutting process until all six sides are cut. The result is a perfectly symmetrical hexagon with equal facets.

⚠️ Safety note: Always use your hold-down clamp when cutting small pieces. Keep your hands well away from the blade and use push blocks whenever possible.

💡 Pro tip: Create a few custom stop blocks sized for different hexagon patterns — one for standard hexagons, others for irregular shapes or unique layouts.

Wrap-Up: A Simple, Accurate, and Reusable Add-On

This hexagon jig is one of those small but powerful add-ons that make workshop life easier. It’s quick to build, mounts in minutes, and when you’re done, it stores flat and out of the way. All its components — the stop blocks, hold-down clamps, and T-track bolts — fit right into my modular system, so they can be reused with other jigs and setups around the shop.

What I like most is its simplicity and reusability. Everything fits together cleanly, and because the alignment is adjustable, hitting those perfect 120° angles is quite achievable even if your setup isn’t 100% precise at first. The more accurate you are during the build, the better — but there’s still room to fine-tune later.

Of course, there are limits — this add-on isn’t meant for very large hexagons, since the size depends on your table saw sled. But for small to mid-sized projects, it’s a compact, reliable jig that produces clean, consistent results every time.

📘 Plans coming soon! I’ll be sharing downloadable plans for this jig along with my other modular table saw add-ons. Until then, you can check out all my current free woodworking plans and start building your own workshop jigs today.

FAQs

What angle do you need to cut a hexagon on the table saw?

A hexagon requires 120° between adjacent faces. On this jig, the back fence is set at 120° to the blade, so you simply rotate the workpiece and make six identical cuts.

Do I need a table saw sled for this hexagon jig?

Yes. This jig is designed as an add-on for a table saw sled. The sled gives you stability, accuracy, and a safer workflow. Build the sled first, then mount the jig on top.

What materials should I use for the jig?

I build the fence from Baltic birch plywood and the tracks from MDF (my homemade T-track system). Hardware is simple: M6 bolt + wing nut for mounting, plus T-track bolts for the stop and hold-downs.

How big of a hexagon can I cut with this jig?

Size is limited by your sled capacity. For very large hexagons, a standalone jig or different approach is better. For small to mid-sized parts, this add-on is ideal.

How do I keep the cuts accurate and repeatable?

Take a few minutes to dial the fence to a true 120° with a digital angle gauge or machinist square. Use the saved 120° cutoff as a wedge against the stop, and clamp the workpiece with hold-downs. Make a light test cut and fine-tune if needed.

Is the system reusable with other jigs?

Yes. I keep all my homemade T-tracks the same size, so T-track bolts, stops, and hold-downs move between jigs—fast setup, less clutter, and consistent results.

This post DIY Hexagon Jig for Table Saw (Make Perfect Hexagons Easily) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

DIY Juice Groove Jig: Cut Clean Juice Grooves Every Time

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 09 Oct 2025 07:00:00 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

DIY Juice Groove Jig: Cut Clean Juice Grooves Every Time

If you’ve ever tried cutting a juice groove freehand, you know how tricky it can be to get it clean and consistent — especially across multiple boards. That’s exactly why I built this DIY Juice Groove Jig.

This jig is designed to make the whole process smooth and repeatable. It’s adjustable, works with a wide range of board sizes (up to 40×69 cm), and clamps down securely to your workbench whenever you need it. I built mine using MDF for the base and Baltic birch plywood for the fences. The tracks are routed directly into the MDF using a 6mm router bit, so there’s no need to buy aluminum t-tracks — though you could definitely go that route too.

What I really like is how easily you can adjust the jig to fit different board sizes — just slide the fences in place, lock them down, and you’re ready to go. You can even tweak the groove offset by adding spacers under your cutting board.

I usually use this jig right after trimming a board to final size and before routing handles or sanding. It’s quick to set up, easy to use, and gives you perfectly clean juice grooves every time.

👉 If you’re working on cutting boards, check out Best Jigs for Making Cutting Boards for more builds like this one.

How to Make a Juice Groove Jig Video

Want to see how it’s built? Watch the full step-by-step video below. I walk through each part of the process — from making the jig base to cutting a clean juice groove in a cutting board.

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Watch the Build (Video)
Downloadable Plans
Tools and Materials
Step-by-Step Build Guide
1. Step 1: Cut the Base to Size
2. Step 2: Add T-Tracks to the Base
3. Step 3: Build the Adjustable Side Fences
4. Assembling the Juice Groove Jig
How to Use the Jig
Wrap-Up
FAQ
Jigs I Used for The Project

*Safety is your responsibility. Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first!

Juice Groove Jig Plans

Download the Juice Groove Jig Plans here

Download plans here

Tools and Materials

Here’s what I used to build the juice groove jig. Many of these are standard tools you likely already have in the shop. I’ve added affiliate links for your convenience — they help support the site at no cost to you.

Tools

Table Saw – Link
Router – Link
Hand Drill – Link
Orbit Sander – Link
Japanese Dozuki Saw – Link
Drill Bit Set – Link
Grr-Ripper Push Block – Link
Table Saw Blade – Link
Narex Chisels – Link
F-Clamps – Link
T-Track Clamps – Link
One Hand Clamps – Link
Spring Clamps – Link
Speed Square – Link

Tools

Juice Groove Router Bit – Link
Router Bit Dia 6mm – Link

Consumables & Other

Wood Glue – Link
Painters Tape – Link
Sanding Discs – Link
[MDF + Baltic Birch Plywood]
T-Track Bolts

🛠 Check out all the tools I use here

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Let's start building!

The jig is built from two main parts — a flat MDF base with routed T-slots and four adjustable side fences made from Baltic birch plywood. I went with MDF because it’s straight and easy to cut clean slots into. The homemade T-tracks keep the build budget-friendly and work with standard shop clamps, which is a nice bonus.

All the components are laid out with cutting boards in mind — both in size and in how the jig adjusts. Before routing the groove, the board is held in place between the fences, locked down with clamps, and if needed, small spacers can be added underneath to fine-tune the groove offset.

It’s a straightforward build, and once assembled, the jig handles a variety of board sizes with ease. Let’s walk through it step by step.

How to Make a Juice Groove Jig

Step 1: Cut the Base to Size

To start, I’m cutting the base of the juice groove jig to its final dimensions — 51.5 × 70.5 cm. I’m using 18mm thick MDF, which offers plenty of rigidity and stays nice and flat over time. You can cut it on a table saw, like I did, or use a circular saw with a guide if that’s what you have on hand. A straight and solid base is key, since all the other parts of the jig will be mounted to it.

Step 2: Add T-Tracks to the Base

Once the base is ready, it’s time to create the homemade T-track system. I start by marking a matrix of tracks — two slots from one side and two from the adjacent side. These will later hold the adjustable fences in place.

To make clean, straight slots, I use my router dado jig. After routing, I clean up the edges of each slot with a chisel. Before moving forward, I test my homemade T-track bolts in the slots to make sure they slide freely.

Next, I cut MDF strips to form the walls of the T-tracks and glue them into the slots. I use just enough glue to hold them — too much and cleanup becomes a hassle. I also fix each strip in place with screws, making sure they sit flush with the surface. Finally, I sand everything down lightly to remove any bumps and make sure the surface stays flat.

Step 3: Build the Adjustable Side Fences

Next up are the adjustable side fences — you’ll need four in total, and they’re made from Baltic birch plywood. Each fence is built from a wider base strip and a few narrower strips stacked on top. The base not only gives the fence structure, but it also creates a small offset between the cutting board and the fence, which helps when routing juice grooves.

I cut all the strips to size on my table saw, then glue the narrower strips on top of the base to form each fence. The height is up to you — it depends on the typical thickness of your cutting boards. Once everything is glued up, clean any glue squeeze-out to make sure the surface stays nice and flat.

Step 4: Assemble the Juice Groove Jig

Now that the fences are ready, it’s time to assemble the jig. To hold cutting boards securely, the fences need to be perpendicular to each other — this way, you can easily copy the board’s shape and route a precise groove around it.

One fence is permanently fixed to one of the shorter sides of the base. I attach it with wood glue and screws.
The opposite shorter fence gets a routed slot, so I can attach it with T-track bolts and adjust it as needed.
The two longer side fences don’t have any slots. I attach them with T-track clamps, depending on the size of the cutting board I’m working on.

This setup gives you a fully adjustable jig that works for boards of various sizes. You can tighten everything in place once the board is inside, and then you’re ready to route.

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How to Use the Juice Groove Jig

Once your cutting board is trimmed to final size (and before sanding or adding rubber feet), it’s time to cut the juice groove.

Here’s how I use the jig:

Place the board against the fixed fence on the base.
Adjust the remaining three fences so they fit snugly around the cutting board.
Secure the fences using either T-track bolts or clamps.
Clamp the whole jig to your workbench or table so nothing moves during routing.
Grab your handheld router fitted with a round nose bit (aka juice groove bit).
Start in one corner and work your way around the board, following the inner fence outline.

This setup gives you consistent results and helps avoid mistakes like slipping or uneven grooves.

Juice Groove Routing Tips

Tip	Why it Matters
1. Cut slowly and evenly	Keeps the groove smooth without chatter marks
2. Make multiple shallow passes	Reduces tear-out and prevents burning
3. Clear chips between passes	Prevents clogging, keeps the router bit cool, and avoids chips getting under the base plate — so your juice groove stays clean and at a consistent depth
4. Move in a clockwise direction	Safer and helps the bit pull into the fence for a cleaner cut

Wrap-Up

I’ve used this juice groove jig on every cutting board I’ve made in the past year — and it just works. It saves a ton of time, gives me consistent results, and I don’t have to worry about wobbly setups or freehand mistakes. Once it’s clamped down, I know the cut will be clean.

One of the things I really appreciate is how versatile it is. You can use it with different board sizes and thicknesses, and it works great alongside other jigs I use in the process. If you’re building boards regularly, this one’s right up there with the best woodworking jigs for cutting boards.

If you haven’t built one yet, I’d definitely recommend it. It’s one of those jigs that earns its place on the wall because you keep reaching for it.

FAQ – Juice Groove Jig

What router bit do I need to cut a juice groove?

You’ll need a round nose router bit — often labeled as a juice groove bit. I recommend a 6mm or 8mm diameter depending on the groove style you’re after.

Can I use this jig for different cutting board sizes?

Yes, the jig is fully adjustable. The fences can be moved to fit a variety of board sizes and thicknesses.

How do I avoid burning the edges while routing?

Use multiple light passes rather than one deep cut, move at a consistent pace, and make sure to clear the chips between each pass. This prevents heat buildup and keeps the bit clean.

Can I use shop-bought T-tracks instead of making my own?

Absolutely. While I built mine with MDF and homemade bolts to keep costs down, you can swap in aluminum T-tracks and hardware if preferred.

Jigs I Used for This Project

This post DIY Juice Groove Jig: Cut Clean Juice Grooves Every Time first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

Woodworking Jigs – AllFlavor Workshop

How to Flatten a Cutting Board: Planer vs Router Flattening Jig

Quick Answer (Planer vs Router Flattening Jig)

Table of Contents

Planer vs Router Flattening Jig: Decision Table

What “Flat” Actually Means (And Why It Matters for Cutting Boards)

1. Flattening a Cutting Board With a Planer

Step-by-Step: How I Flatten a Cutting Board With a Planer

Step 1: Remove glue squeeze-out first

Step 2: Take light passes and alternate faces

Step 3: If the board rocks, stabilize it with a sled (hot glue works)

Step 4: Leave sacrificial ends to deal with snipe

2. Flattening a Cutting Board With a Router Flattening Jig

Step-by-Step: How I Flatten a Cutting Board With a Router Jig

Step 1: Lock the board down so it can’t rock

Step 2: Set up the rails and sled (parallel + rigid)

Step 3: Use the right bit and take shallow passes

Step 4: Work in a consistent pattern with overlap

Step 5: Check progress, then flatten the second side

Step 6: Clean up the router lines

Hybrid Workflows (Best of Both Worlds)

Surface Quality: Planer vs Router Jig (And How Much Sanding to Expect)

Troubleshooting Cutting Board Flattening (Quick Fixes)

Wrap-Up

FAQ

1) Can I flatten a cutting board without a planer?

2) Is it safe to run an end grain cutting board through a planer?

3) What router bit is best for flattening a cutting board?

4) How do I avoid planer snipe when flattening a cutting board?

5) How smooth should the board be after flattening?

DIY Table Saw Push Block: How to Build a Safe Push Block for Clean Cuts

Video: Watch the Build

Table of Contents

Tools and Materials

How a Push Block Makes Table Saw Rips Safer and Cleaner

Let’s Start Building!

How to Make a Push Block for Table Saw

Step 1: Building the Push Block Base Frame

Step 2: Attaching the Side Legs

Step 3: Building the T-Tracks on Top of the Base

Step 4: Making the Adjustable Center Leg

Step 5: Adding the Non-Slip Rubber Pad

Step 6: Building the Side Adjustable Stand

Step 7: Final Assembly – Putting Everything Together

Wrap-Up: Why This Push Block Is Worth Building

FAQs: DIY Table Saw Push Block

1. Why use a push block instead of just a push stick?

2. What size should a table saw push block be?

3. What material should I use on the bottom for grip?

4. Do I need one or two push blocks?

5. Can I use this push block on tools other than the table saw?

How to Build a Picture Frame Jig for the Table Saw (Perfect 45° Corners)

Video: Watch the Build

Table of Contents

Tools and Materials

Why Build a Picture Frame Jig for the Table Saw?

Let’s Start Building!

How to Build a Picture Frame Jig for Table Saw

Step 1: Building the Picture Frame Jig Base

Step 2: Making and Attaching the Fences

Step 3: Making the Stop Block

Step 4: Finishing the Picture Frame Jig — Scale and Hold-Down Clamp

Setting Up the Picture Frame Jig (and Cutting Your First Frame)

Wrap-Up: Why I Like This Picture Frame Jig

FAQs: Picture Frame Jig for the Table Saw

1. Do I really need a picture frame jig, or is a miter gauge enough?

2. Can I use this jig for other projects besides picture frames?

3. How accurate does the 45° angle need to be?

4. What size frames can I make with this jig?

5. Is the hold-down clamp necessary, or can I just hold the work by hand?

How to Build a Table Saw Thin Strip Jig (Safe, Repeatable Thin Rips)

Video: Watch the Build

Table of Contents

Tools and Materials

Why Use a Thin Strip Jig on the Table Saw?

Let’s Start Building!

How to Build a Thin Strip Jig for Table Saw

Step 1: Building the Thin Strip Jig Base

Step 2: Making the Thin Strip Jig Handle

Step 3: Making the Hold-Down Clamp