In a small workshop, I like jigs that can do more than one job. That is why I built my Table Saw Sled with a T-track in the fence — it gives me a solid base for different removable add-ons without having to build a completely separate sled for every task.
This DIY hexagon jig for table saw is one of those add-ons. It attaches directly to the sled fence and helps me cut accurate, repeatable pieces for hexagons without measuring and resetting every cut individually.
I mainly use it for hexagon shelves, frames, decorative projects, and other builds that rely on consistent 30° cuts. Once the jig is set up correctly, each piece can be cut to the same angle and length, which makes the final hexagon much easier to assemble.
The jig is compact, easy to remove, and simple to store when I am not using it. That is one of the main reasons I prefer this modular setup over building a dedicated sled for every type of cut.
In this article, I’ll show you how to build the hexagon jig step by step, attach it to the table saw sled, set the cutting angle, and use it to make clean, repeatable hexagon parts.
I also have downloadable plans available if you want the dimensions and part layout organized in one place while building the jig in the workshop.
DIY Hexagon Jig for Table Saw Video
If you want to see the full build and setup, watch the video below. I show how I make the hexagon jig, attach it to the Table Saw Sled, set the cutting angle, and use it to make repeatable hexagon parts.
If you enjoy the video, I’d really appreciate it if you subscribed to my YouTube channel. It helps me keep creating more table saw jigs, sled add-ons, and step-by-step woodworking guides.
Table of Contents
- DIY Table Saw Hexagon Jig Video
- DIY Table Saw Hexagon Jig Plans
- Materials and Tools
- What Is a Hexagon Jig and Why Build One?
- Quick Build Overview
- Let’s Start Building!
- Step 1: Cut the Blanks for the Hexagon Fence (T-Track)
- Step 2: Cut Dados and Assemble the T-Track Fence
- Step 3: Mount the Fence to the Table Saw Sled
- Step 4: Add the Stop and Hold-Down Clamps
- How to Cut a Hexagon with a Hexagon Jig
- My Take
- Frequently Asked Questions
*Safety is your responsibility. Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first.
Hexagon Jig Plans
I’m preparing downloadable plans for this DIY hexagon jig for table saw, with the main dimensions, part sizes, and setup details organized in one place.
Once the plans are available, I’ll add them here so you can follow the build more easily in the workshop.
Materials and Tools
Before starting the build, prepare the materials and tools for the hexagon jig. The main fence is made from 12 mm Baltic birch plywood with MDF strips that form my usual homemade T-track system. The jig then mounts to the table saw sled with bolts and wing nuts.
Measuring & Setup
Clamping & Holding
Bits, Abrasives & Consumables
💡 Tip: I recommend checking your sled’s fence height before cutting the jig pieces — matching the height keeps everything aligned and makes the cuts cleaner.
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📌 Pin This for Later
Save this project for later so you can add it to your own modular jig system.
What Is a Hexagon Jig and Why Build One?
A hexagon jig for a table saw is a simple guide that helps you cut the same angle and length repeatedly so six pieces come together into a clean hexagon.
This version works as a removable add-on for my Table Saw Sled. The main fence is set at 120° to the saw blade, and the built-in T-track lets me add a stop block and hold-down clamps for consistent, repeatable cuts.
I like this setup because I do not need a dedicated hexagon sled taking up space in the workshop. The fence attaches only when I need it, and the same T-track bolts, clamps, and stops can be reused across other jigs.
The main limitation is size. Since the jig mounts to the sled, the largest hexagon you can cut is limited by the sled itself. For larger projects, a dedicated standalone jig would make more sense.
Accuracy matters here, but the setup is still forgiving. Even after drilling the mounting hole, there is enough adjustment to fine-tune the fence and bring it to a true 120° before making the final cuts.
Quick Build Overview
Here is a quick overview of the hexagon jig and how it works before getting into the step-by-step build.
| Item | Details |
|---|---|
| Project | DIY hexagon jig for table saw |
| Main use | Cutting accurate, repeatable hexagon parts |
| Jig type | Removable add-on for a table saw sled |
| Main material | Baltic birch plywood and MDF |
| Fence angle | 120° to the saw blade |
| Accessories | Stop block and hold-down clamps |
| Attachment | Bolts and wing nuts |
| Best for | Hexagon shelves, frames, decorative projects, and repeatable geometric cuts |
| Difficulty | Beginner to intermediate |
Let’s Start Building!
This hexagon jig is built around a simple idea: the fence is set at 120° to the saw blade, which lets you make repeatable cuts and rotate the workpiece until all six sides are finished.
The main fence is made from Baltic birch plywood, with MDF strips forming my usual homemade T-track system. That track lets me add a stop block and hold-down clamps, so the workpiece stays secure, and each cut can be repeated at the same length.
The jig attaches directly to the Table Saw Sled with bolts and wing nuts. When I am finished, I can remove it in a few minutes and store it flat, which is exactly why I like this modular setup.
The key here is accuracy. Take your time when setting the fence to a true 120°. There is still some room for adjustment after the mounting hole is drilled, so you can fine-tune the setup before locking everything in place.
💡TIP: Use a digital angle gauge during setup and check the 120° angle more than once before tightening the jig permanently.
NOTE: This jig is best suited to hexagons that fit comfortably on the sled. For much larger hexagons, a dedicated standalone setup would be more practical.
How To Make a Hexagon Jig for Table Saw
Step 1: Prepare the Wood for the Hexagon Fence
Rip the main fence body from Baltic birch plywood to 450 × 55 × 12 mm. This strip will later receive dados that capture two MDF rails, forming your homemade T-track (for stops, hold-downs, and other accessories). For now, you’re just prepping blanks—no assembly yet.
Using the table saw sled, cut two narrow MDF strips that will become the T-track rails. Keep their widths consistent; it’s fine to leave them slightly oversized for now—we’ll sneak up on the final sliding fit after the dados are cut in the plywood.
💡 Pro tip: Mark a reference edge/face on the plywood body and both MDF rails. Keep those references against the fence for every cut—this preserves parallelism and makes the later dado fit-up far more predictable.
Step 2: Cut Dados and Assemble the T-Track Fence
Next, it’s time to turn the plywood blank into a working T-track fence. Start by using a marking gauge to mark the layout lines for three dados along the plywood strip. These will hold the MDF rails that form the sides of the track.
I cut all the dados with my multipurpose router jig — it’s quick, precise, and keeps the cuts perfectly parallel. Once the dados are done, lightly sand the grooves and clean up the ends with a chisel to remove the material the router couldn’t reach.
Test the fit with the MDF strips before gluing. The dado width should match the thickness of your MDF so everything stays flush. When satisfied with the fit, add a thin layer of glue inside the dados and insert the strips. Avoid using too much glue — if it squeezes into the track, it’s a pain to clean later. You can also add a few screws for extra strength if you like.
Drill a 6 mm hole through the center at one end of the track — this will later be used to attach the jig to the table saw sled. On the other end, bevel the edge closest to the blade to help remove sawdust while cutting. Then, at the far end of the fence, mark and cut a 120° angle on the table saw — this is the reference edge that will align with the sled fence.
💡 Tip: Don’t throw away the 120° cutoff piece — you’ll need it later when setting up the jig for your first hexagon cuts.
This is the same DIY T-track system I use in many of my builds — simple to make, strong, and fully compatible across multiple jigs. You can check out my step-by-step guide on How to Make a DIY T-Track for Woodworking if you’d like to add this setup to your own shop.
Step 3: Mount the Fence to the Table Saw Sled
With the T-track fence complete, it’s time to mount it onto the table saw sled. Start by aligning the 120° cut edge of the fence with the sled’s fence. This angle needs to be precise, so check that there’s a true 120° between the jig fence and the saw blade using a digital angle gauge.
Once aligned, temporarily fix the fence in place. I use a few plywood cutouts and double-sided tape to hold everything steady while I mark and drill. With the fence secured, extend the existing 6 mm hole through the sled base — this will serve as the mounting point.
Next, flip the sled upside down. Using a chisel, carve a hexagon recess around the drilled hole to fit the bolt head. The recess needs to be deep enough for the bolt head to sit flush or slightly below the sled’s surface. This ensures the sled slides smoothly across the table without obstruction.
After carving, insert the bolt from the bottom, position the fence on top, and secure it using a wing nut. Check the alignment one more time to confirm the 120° setup is still spot-on.
💡 Tip: Take your time with the alignment. Small errors at this stage will multiply across all six cuts when forming the hexagon.
Step 4: Add the Stop and Hold-Down Clamps
With the fence mounted and aligned, it’s time to add the accessories that make the jig truly functional — the stop block and the hold-down clamps. These are mounted directly into the homemade T-track, which allows for quick adjustment and reuse across other jigs in the workshop.
- Install the hold-down clamps first. They’ll keep each workpiece firmly in position during cutting and prevent any movement. I’m using shop-made clamps, secured with homemade T-track bolts, standard bolts, and wing nuts — the same system I use across all my jigs.
- Next, attach the stop block. Mine is made from plywood and lets me set the workpiece position for repeatable cuts of the same length. Just slide it to the desired spot, tighten it down, and you’re good to go.
Once both accessories are mounted, secure the outer end of the hexagon fence to the table saw’s fence. I use another pair of T-track bolts, a thin plywood strip, and wing nuts to lock it firmly in place. When everything is tightened, the jig sits solid and ready to cut.
💡 Tip: Keeping all your T-tracks the same size means your homemade bolts, clamps, and stops can be reused across different jigs — a huge time saver when switching setups.
How to Cut a Hexagon with a Table Saw Hexagon Jig
Once the jig is built, the setup is pretty simple. Attach the hexagon fence to the Table Saw Sled, add the hold-down clamp, and position the stop block in the T-track.
Use the 120° cutoff piece from the fence build as a support against the stop block. This helps keep the workpiece positioned correctly while you make the repeat cuts.
🔧 Setup
Mount the jig to your table saw sled and secure it with the bolt and wing nut.
Insert the hold-down clamps into the T-track to keep your workpiece firmly in place.
Add the stop block into the same track and set the desired hexagon size. Tighten it down with a wing nut.
Take the 120° cutoff piece you saved earlier and place it between the stop block and your workpiece. This acts as a support wedge, ensuring perfect alignment.
🪚 Cutting the Hexagon
Make the first cut — align the edge of your board with the fence and make a clean pass. This defines your first 120° edge.
Rotate the workpiece to the next side, aligning it against the stop block and the cutoff wedge, and make the next cut.
Repeat the rotation and cutting process until all six sides are cut. The result is a perfectly symmetrical hexagon with equal facets.
⚠️ Safety note: Always use your hold-down clamp when cutting small pieces. Keep your hands well away from the blade and use push blocks whenever possible.
💡 Pro tip: Create a few custom stop blocks sized for different hexagon patterns — one for standard hexagons, others for irregular shapes or unique layouts.
My Take
I like this hexagon jig because it is simple, reusable, and quick to mount. I only attach it to my Table Saw Sled when I need it, and when I am done it comes off again and stores flat without taking much space.
The T-track is probably my favorite part of the setup. I can reuse the same stop blocks, hold-down clamps, T-track bolts, and wing nuts that I use on other workshop jigs instead of making dedicated hardware for every project.
Accuracy still matters, especially when setting the fence to 120°, but the setup gives you some room for adjustment. Even after the mounting hole is drilled, you can fine-tune the fence before tightening everything down.
The main limitation is size. This version works best for small to medium hexagons that fit comfortably on the table saw sled. If I needed to make much larger hexagons regularly, I would probably build a dedicated jig instead.
For the kind of projects I usually make, though, this removable add-on makes much more sense. It expands the sled into another useful setup without requiring another large jig in the workshop.
If you want to explore more builds like this, you can check my Woodworking Plans page for the plans and jig projects currently available.
Woodworking Jigs I Used for This Build
A few other workshop jigs make this build easier, especially when cutting the fence parts, routing the homemade T-track, and setting up the final attachment.
- Table Saw Sled – the main base for this removable hexagon jig
- Multi-Purpose Router Jig – useful for routing the dados for the MDF T-track strips
- DIY T-Tracks and T-Slots – useful if you want to build the same reusable T-track system I use across many of my jigs
- How to Build Modular Woodworking Jigs for Versatility – this hexagon jig is a good example of the modular approach I use throughout the workshop
You do not need all of these to build the jig, but they make the setup easier and fit the same reusable system I use across many of my projects.
Frequently Asked Questions
What angle do you need to cut a hexagon on a table saw?
For this jig, the fence is set at 120° to the saw blade. Once that angle is dialed in correctly, you can rotate the workpiece after each cut and create a repeatable six-sided shape.
Can I make different-size hexagons with this jig?
Yes. The stop block position controls the side length, so you can adjust it to make different-size hexagons. You can also make different stop blocks for special setups or irregular hexagons.
Do I need a table saw sled for this hexagon jig?
For this version, yes. The jig is designed as a removable add-on for the Table Saw Sled, which gives it a stable base and makes it easy to mount only when needed.
How accurate does the 120° setup need to be?
The closer you are to a true 120°, the cleaner the final hexagon will be. The good thing is that the jig still gives you some adjustment after the mounting hole is drilled, so you can fine-tune the fence before tightening it down.
Is this jig suitable for large hexagons?
Only up to the size that comfortably fits on your table saw sled. For very large hexagons, a dedicated standalone jig would be more practical.
Why use a stop block and hold-down clamp?
The stop block helps keep every cut the same length, while the hold-down clamp keeps the workpiece secure—especially important when cutting smaller pieces close to the blade.
