A caste joint is a 3-way woodworking joint, very often used when making beds, tables, and other furniture. It is not only one of the strongest wood joints but at the same time gives the joint elegance and makes it stand out aesthetically.
That is one of the main reasons why I decided to build an outdoor coffee table with castle joint legs and enhance it with a herringbone tabletop pattern.
Making a castle joint is not difficult and there are a few ways how to make it. The traditional way requires a hand saw (Japanese saw preferably) and a chisel. However, an “easier” way without the use of traditional tools is to cut the castle joint on a table saw with the help of a tenoning jig and a crosscut sled.
The table top of the coffee table is made from plywood arranged in a herringbone pattern. The pattern looks great, it beautifully highlights the table and gives it a nice touch. However, making a tabletop from a herringbone pattern could be quite a challenge, especially when keeping the herringbone pattern straight and making sure it is centered while assembling it. However, with a little diligence, this will not be a problem, and minor imperfections are easily hidden in the pattern.
The resulting outdoor coffee table looks awesome, not only because of the castle joints that give the table strength and robustness, but also thanks to the beautiful herringbone table top.
In this article, I will walk you through step-by-step how to make a DIY outdoor coffee table, more precisely how to build castle joints on a table saw using a tenoning jig, and how to make a tabletop by assembling wooden pieces into a herringbone pattern.
DIY Rectangle Outdoor Coffee Table with Castle Joint Legs - Video
If you want to see how it is done, watch the video below for a step-by-step guide on how to make an outdoor coffee table with castle joint legs and a herringbone tabletop pattern.
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Table of Contents
- DIY Coffee Table Video
- Outdoor Coffee Table Plans
- The Material you will need
- General Questions
- What is the difference between herringbone and chevron pattern?
- What are the different ways to cut a castle joint?
- How to center the herringbone pattern?
- Castle Joint Outdoor Coffee Table with Herringbone Table Top
- Step 1: Cut the Castle in the Table Legs
- Step 2: Cut the Tenons in the Table Aprons
- Step 3: Cut the Half Lap Joints in the Tenons
- Step 4: Assemble the Coffee Table
- Step 5: Make the Herringbone Table Top
- What to pay attention to when making a coffee table with castle joints
*Safety is your responsibility. Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first! Always be cautious when using any power tool.
What you'll need to make a DIY outdoor coffee table
Material – Spruce Wood, Plywood
Coffee table legs
Spruce posts – 70 mm x 70 mm x 400 mm
Coffee table aprons
Spruce posts – 70 mm x 70 mm x 500 mm
Spruce posts – 70 mm x 70 mm x 600 mm
Coffee table top
Plywood base – 510 mm x 360 mm x 9 mm
Plywood strips – 60 mm x 11 mm x 12 mm – https://amzn.to/3TPULp2
Check all the Tools I Use
Tools:
Table Saw – https://amzn.to/47mWiGf
Miter Gauge – https://amzn.to/48DqfTC
Trim Router – https://amzn.to/3HbQcOg
Orbital Sander – https://amzn.to/48G9cjL
Hand Drill – https://amzn.to/3HqLEnH
T-Track Clamps – https://amzn.to/3tEKaCW
One Hand Clamps – https://amzn.to/48jGxkZ
Combination Square – https://amzn.to/41Lhp3U
Speed Square
Ruler Marking Gauge (make one)
Other:
Table Saw Blade – https://amzn.to/48maocv
Flat bottom saw blade (optional)
MicroJig Gripper Push Block – https://amzn.to/3vjQSP7
Router Flattening Bit – https://amzn.to/4aMQp8v
Sanding Discs – https://amzn.to/4aGaY6r
Wood Glue – https://amzn.to/48ltKhJ
Sandpaper Sheets – https://amzn.to/41OMx2p
Painter’s tape – https://amzn.to/48IgDXJ
Wood screws – https://amzn.to/41PodgQ
Spray Laquer – https://amzn.to/3RRED3J
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What are the different ways to cut a castle joint?
A castle joint is a distinct type of woodworking connection that resembles the crenellations seen on old castles. This joint is not only aesthetically pleasing but also adds structural strength to woodworking projects.
When crafting table legs, there are two primary approaches to cutting a caste joint:
- Use of traditional tools – Making a castle joint with traditional tools without using power tools. This method involves the use of a hand saw, a chisel, or possibly a coping saw.
- Use of power tools – Making a castle joint with power tools. This method involves the use of an oscillating tool (often a router), or a table saw. When using a table saw, a tenoning jig, or a crosscut fence can be handy to achieve the desired accuracy.
What is the difference between herringbone and chevron pattern?
Many people mix up the Herringbone and Chevron patterns, but there’s a key difference in their designs.
For the herringbone pattern, each piece is cut at a 90-degree angle, so they form a zigzag pattern with every piece sitting perpendicular to its neighbors.
However, in the Chevron pattern, the pieces are cut at an angle to create a continuous V-shape. While the herringbone might be a tad simpler to craft because of its straight cuts, both designs take a good amount of time to create.
How to center herringbone pattern?
There are 2 ways to identify the center of a herringbone pattern:
- Center on the short side of the tile – the center line passes through the centers of the ends of the tiles.
- Center on the longer side of the tile – the center line passes through the centers of the longer sides. The longer side is equal to the total length of the tile from which the length of the shorter side is subtracted.
NOTE: The total cut size will determine which center should be selected.
Pick a center and measure the total cut size. In case you don’t want to end up with short cuts on the sides select the other center.
Let's start building!
For the DIY coffee table, I am using 70 x 70 mm spruce posts. For the table top a 9 mm thick plywood desk and 12 mm thick plywood strips for the herringbone pattern. After gluing the strips on the plywood desk and trimming the table surface the resulting thickness of the tabletop is 19 mm.
For the table legs as well as for the table aprons, I am using square posts which makes it easier when cutting the castle joints. Once you have all the tools set up (the combination square, the ruler marking gauge, the table saw, and others) you can simply make all the cuts repeatedly and accurately.
After assembling the castle joint legs, I decided to apply glue to the joints and fix them permanently. There are 2 main reasons for that. Firstly, there is no reason to disassemble the table again, and secondly, the combination of glue and sawdust will create a paste that nicely hides any imperfections in the joints.
NOTE: You can use cedar instead of spruce wood for this build, especially if it’s intended for outdoor use. Cedar is excellent for outdoor projects because it’s naturally resistant to moisture and decay.
However, don’t forget to protect the tabletop from water, as plywood isn’t fully waterproof; it only offers some water resistance.
DIY Outdoor Coffee Table with Castle Joint Legs
Step 1: Cut the Castle in the Table Legs
Measure and cut the table legs. The dimensions of the legs are 70 x 70 x 400 mm. To cut the legs I am using a table saw and a miter gauge with a set stopper to make sure the length of all the legs is equal.
Draw the castle on the leg. For that, I am using a marking gauge and a combination square. Once you have the settings, keep them, you will need them to cut the tenons as well.
Castle of the Castle Joint:
- The depth of the castle equals the width of the post (70´mm)
- Divide the width of the posts into thirds and cut the inner section
NOTE: Make sure the posts are straight and square. Both on the edges and the ends. Also, I decided to use square posts (70 x 70 mm). Having a square post makes it easier to cut all the castles and the tenons. Once you have all the settings in place you can repetitively cut all the joints.
To cut the bridle joint use a table saw tenoning jig. Raise the blade to the top mark (depth) of the joint and move the tenoning jig so the blade touches the inner “castle” mark.
Make the cut. Then rotate the post 90 degrees 3 times and make a cut on all 4 sides of the post. Repeat the process for all 4 table legs.
To get rid of the material from the middle of the joint I used a coping saw and then the tenoning jig to clean it. (You can directly clean the castle joint with the tenoning jig, but cutting the material on the saw is really messy and there is sawdust everywhere).
At this point, you have the castle of the castle joint.
TIP: Save the sawdust. You can use it when cleaning the imperfections in the castle joint.
Step 2: Cut the Tenons in the Table Aprons
Draw the castle joint on the table aprons using the same settings on the marking gauge and the combination square.
Tenons of the castle joint:
- The depth of the tenons equals the width of the post (7cm)
- Divide the width of the posts into thirds and cut the outer sections
Use the tenoning jig to cut the tenons on the table aprons. The height of the blade stays the same. Move the tenoning jig so the blade touches the outer “castle” mark.
Make the cut, rotate the post 180 degrees, and make another cut.
TIP: Start your cut a little further from the mark. You can always sneak up on the cut. Unfortunately, it doesn’t work the other way.
Roughly cut off the tenons and try the bridle joint. Keep on sneaking up on the cut until you get a nice joint fit. Once the fit is perfect cleanly cut the tenons using a miter gauge or a crosscut sled. If you use a miter gauge set a stopper on the table saw fence (don’t crosscut directly against the fence) and cut the tenons on all 4 table aprons.
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Step 3: Cut the Half Lap Joints in the Tenons
Join one of the table legs with one of the aprons and mark the internal crossing. Also, make a mark in the middle of the height of the apron.
Set the stopper on the table saw (table saw sled) and cut the half-lap joints in the tenons. Again, I am using a miter gauge for the cuts. Repeat the process for all 4 table aprons.
Now you have a castle joint.
Step 4: Assemble the Coffee Table
Connect the table legs and the aprons together and assemble the castle joints. Since the joints also serve as a decorative element, I am using glue to strengthen them and to fill any cracks in the joint.
TIP: If you want to get rid of tiny cracks and imperfections in the joints, make a paste out of glue and sawdust and rub it in the joints. Then use a sander and smooth them out.
Step 5: Make the Herringbone Table Top
First, cut a plywood desk (510 mm x 360 mm x 9 mm) for the tabletop. Check that the desk nicely fits on the table.
Cut a lot of plywood strips (60 mm x 11 mm x 12 mm) and sand the edges to get rid of splinters. The best way to cut the strips is to use a table saw in combination with a crosscut sled.
1. Make the herringbone pattern
Decide on the direction and the center of the herringbone pattern. To keep the herringbone pattern straight draw multiple auxiliary lines on the desk. Attach a piece of a straight wood bar or a lever along one of the drawn lines to create a guiding rail for the pattern.
Start gluing the pieces from the center of the desk, making sure they are glued to both the table and each other. Glue the first 2 pieces perpendicular to each other and continue with the other following the straight edge.
2. Finish the table top
Once the glue dries use a router sled to flatten the tabletop. Use an orbital sander and sandpaper ranging from 80 to 300 grit to smooth the surface and to get rid of the router bit markings.
Take light passes with the router. If you cut too deeply, it can leave more pronounced marks that are tougher to sand away.
Tape the edges with painter’s tape and cut off the wood excess from the table desk. Optionally you can bevel the edges of the desk.
3. Install the table top
To install the tabletop on the legs turn the table and the table desk upside down. This way the table and the desk will be in one plane. Mark the bottom of the table desk on both sides of the table.
Cut 2 plywood strips a secure them along the lines to the sides of the table with screws. Then install the tabletop. Optionally you can secure the tabletop from the bottom with metal angles.
I built a rectangular outdoor coffee table with castle joints legs and a herringbone tabletop. And this is how it looks. I am really happy with how it turned out and I’m definitely adding this piece of furniture to my terrace. 😉
If you want to use the table outside consider protecting it from external conditions.
What to pay attention to when making a coffee table with castle joints
- Don’t change the settings on the marking gauge, the combination square, and the table saw until you’re done with each part of the castle joint at once.
- Use a tenoning jig to cut the castle and the tenons. Set the stoppers when using a miter gauge while cutting the tenons and the half-lap joints.
- When cutting a castle joint on a table saw it is better to start the cuts a little further from the marks and slowly sneak up on the cuts until the joint is perfect.
- Use a paste created from glue and sawdust to clean and fix any imperfections on the castle joints.
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DIY Coffee Table with Herringbone Tabletop
Jigs used for this project:
KEEP READING: How to Cut a Taper on a Table Saw
