Some time ago, I built my first doweling jig — a self-centering doweling jig. Having a dowel jig in the shop is incredibly useful, but that first version had one big limitation: it only allowed me to make edge-to-edge joints. While it worked well for certain tasks, it couldn’t handle face joints.
That limitation, along with the need for better versatility and accuracy, is exactly why I decided to build this adjustable DIY dowel jig.
This upgraded design not only covers all the joint types the self-centering version can handle, but also allows for face joints, offers easier setup, and provides more precise results. Once you start using it, you’ll notice how much faster and cleaner your dowel joinery becomes.
If you’re serious about adding strong, clean joints to your woodworking projects, this jig is a must-have addition to your workshop gear.
RELATED:
How to Make a Self-Centering Doweling Jig – Great for edge-to-edge joints, but if you also want face joint capability and more accuracy, the adjustable jig in this article is the way to go.
Adjustable DIY Dowel Jig Video
If you want to see exactly how this jig comes together, watch the step-by-step video below. I walk you through every stage of the build so you can follow along in your own workshop.
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Table of Contents
- Adjustable DIY Dowel Jig Video
- Dowel Jig Plans
- The Material you will need
- General Questions
- How far apart should dowels be placed?
- What are the disadvantages of a dowel joint?
- How to Make an Adjustable Dowel Jig
- Step 1: Make the Base of the Dowel Jig
- Step 2: Drill the Holes in the Dowel Jig
- Step 3: Cut Slots in the Dowel Jig
- Step 4: Make the Adjustable Fence
- Step 5: Cut the Shape of the Dowel Jig
- Step 6: Insert the Centering Pins
- How to Use a Dowel Jig
- My Take
- Jigs used for the project
*Safety is your responsibility. Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first!
Adjustable Dowel Jig Plans
I’ve put together detailed, downloadable plans for this adjustable dowel jig. They include precise measurements, materials list, step-by-step instructions, and build tips — making it easy to follow along and get accurate results.
What You’ll Need to Make a DIY Adjustable Dowel Jig
Dowel Jig Base
- Plywood – 220 mm x 90 mm x 12 mm – https://amzn.to/3TPULp2
- MDF – 220 mm x 90 mm x 5 mm
- Aluminum Hollow Rod – outer ⌀8mm, inner ⌀6mm – https://amzn.to/3vn0UyZ
- Dowels – ⌀8mm – https://amzn.to/3Ha4Up3
Dowel Jig Fence
- Plywood – 120 mm x 30 mm x 12 mm
- MDF – 110 mm x 20 mm x 5 mm
Check all the Tools I Use
Tools:
- Cord Drill (Drill press) – https://amzn.to/3NSA3Bo
- Hand Drill – https://amzn.to/3HqLEnH
- Trim Router – https://amzn.to/3HbQcOg
- Table Saw / Mini Table Saw (Optional) – https://amzn.to/47mWiGf
- Narex Chisels – https://amzn.to/3tHNJrT
- One Hand Clamps – https://amzn.to/48jGxkZ
- Spring Clamps – https://amzn.to/41Nuh9D
- F-Clamps – https://amzn.to/48ArzY1
Machinist Square / Speed Square - Center Punch – https://amzn.to/48Fq7mv
Other:
- Wood Glue – https://amzn.to/48ltKhJ
- Epoxy – https://amzn.to/3tJ5R4L
- Drill bits – 8mm/6mm – https://amzn.to/48Kaaf7
- Router bits – 6mm – https://amzn.to/3NQNDVX
- M6 Bolts, M6 Wing nut, Washer
💡 We may earn an affiliate commission when you buy through our retail links. As an Amazon Associate, AllFlavor Workshop earns from qualifying purchases.
Common Questions When Using a Dowel Jig
| Question | Answer |
|---|---|
| How far apart should dowels be placed? | Spacing depends on material density and thickness. Denser materials require more space between dowels to avoid splitting. The first dowel should be placed ~30 mm (1 ¼”) from the end of the board. |
| Edge-to-edge joints | Leave about 25 cm (10″) between dowels. |
| Face joints | Leave about 5–8 cm (2–3″) between dowels for strength. |
| What are the disadvantages of a dowel joint? | Possible misalignment if holes are not drilled precisely; joint strength is lower than a mortise and tenon; joints may loosen over time as dowels shear or wear. |
| Why is accuracy important? | Even a small misalignment will cause the joint to weaken and not fit properly. Using precise marking tools, a drill press, or a good drilling guide is key. |
Tip: The adjustable dowel jig covered in this tutorial makes precise hole placement easier, helping to avoid many of these common issues.
Want to learn more about dowel joinery or see a different style of jig? Check out my guide on How to Make a Self-Centering Dowel Jig, where I cover related topics like:
- How deep should a dowel hole be?
- Are dowels supposed to be loose?
- How to use a self-centering dowel jig
Let’s Start Building!
The adjustable dowel jig consists of three main parts:
- The body – forms the base and houses the drilling bushings.
- The adjustable fence – lets you fine-tune the jig’s position for different joint types.
- The self-centering pins – ensure precise alignment on both workpieces.
All parts are made from Baltic birch plywood and MDF. Baltic birch is a great choice — it’s strong, durable, and has a clean grain that’s perfect for precision jigs.
Dimensions:
The finished jig measures 22 cm x 9 cm x 2.8 cm and is designed for 6 mm dowels.
💡 Tip: For the best accuracy, use high-quality plywood and ensure all cuts are square. Even small misalignments can affect joint quality.
How to Make an Adjustable DIY Dowel Jig (Step-by-Step)
Step 1: Make the Base of the Dowel Jig
First, measure and cut the base pieces:
- Plywood – 220 mm × 90 mm × 12 mm
- MDF – 220 mm × 90 mm × 5 mm
Glue the plywood and MDF together to create a solid and stable base.
I used my mini table saw crosscut sled for cutting—this ensures perfectly straight and clean cuts. The accuracy here is important because any unevenness in the base will affect the alignment of the jig later on.
Step 2: Drill the Holes in the Dowel Jig
Drilling the center hole and the holes for the centering pins is the most important step of the project. The centers of all holes must be perfectly aligned on a single line—this directly impacts the jig’s precision.
⚠ Accuracy Tip:
If the holes are slightly off, the jig will still work but may require sanding or small adjustments to correct alignment. If they’re far off, there’s no way to fix it—you’ll need to make a new base. Taking your time here will pay off.
Tips for Perfect Hole Alignment:
- Use a marking gauge to mark precise hole positions.
- Mark each hole with an awl to prevent the drill bit from wandering.
- Use brad point drill bits for clean and accurate entry.
- A drill press stand will give the best accuracy, but careful hand drilling is possible.
1. Drill the Holes for the Centering Pins
Mark the centers and drill with an 8 mm brad point bit.
2. Drill the Center Hole
Mark the center hole, drill it out with the same 8 mm brad point bit, then apply epoxy in the hole and insert an aluminum tube (a steel tube works too). Wipe away any excess epoxy and ensure none seeps into the bushing.
Step 3: Cut Slots in the Dowel Jig
Cut a 6 mm slot in the front of the dowel jig. The slot and the center hole must be perfectly aligned — this accuracy is key for ensuring the jig works reliably.
I used a router table to cut the slot, using the center hole as a reference point. This guarantees that the center hole and slot are in one straight line. A router table makes precise and clean cuts, but you can also cut the slot with a jigsaw and drill if you don’t have one.
Do not cut all the way through — stop just before the center hole.
Cut the bottom slot in the same way. I used an adjustable router dado jig to do that but the router table would work as well. Both methods work just fine.
Finally, turn the dowel jig upside down and cut a wider slot on the bottom. This forms a T-track that will serve as a rail for the adjustable fence.
Step 4: Make the Adjustable Fence
Cut the fence pieces to size (plywood – 120 mm × 30 mm; MDF – 110 mm × 20 mm) and glue them together.
Drill a 6 mm hole in the center, then cut a shallow hexagon recess around the hole to sink the head of the bolt — this keeps the surface flush so the fence sits flat against the workpiece.
Step 5: Cut the Shape of the Dowel Jig
Refine the overall shape of the dowel jig for comfort and usability. Cut out a handle section so it’s easier to grip, and optionally round the head of the jig as I did — this is not necessary but makes it more ergonomic.
Sand all edges and corners to remove sharp edges and improve handling.
Step 6: Insert the Centering Pins
Glue the centering pins into the drilled holes from Step 2. I used beechwood dowels, but metal pins will also work. For best strength, use epoxy to secure them in place.
Ensure the pins are perfectly vertical and fully seated before the glue sets.
The picture below shows the finished Adjustable Dowel Jig.
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How to Use a Dowel Jig
This adjustable dowel jig can make both edge-to-edge joints and face joints, making it more versatile than a standard self-centering dowel jig. It works with boards between 10 mm and 40 mm wide, and its adjustable fence helps you position holes precisely every time.
💡 Tip: I’ve found that metal drill bits turn more smoothly in the bushings than standard wood bits, giving a cleaner cut and reducing wear on the jig.
Edge-to-Edge Joint
An edge-to-edge joint is when two boards are joined along their edges to make a wider panel. Accuracy is important here — even slight misalignment will be visible in the finished piece.
Steps:
- Place the dowel jig around the edge of the first board. Use the centering pins to align the jig perfectly with the board’s center.
- Set the drill depth — aim for half the dowel’s length plus about 2 mm to allow for glue overflow.
- Insert the drill bit into the jig’s bushing and drill the first hole.
- Continue drilling the remaining holes along the edge.
- Add glue and insert the dowels into the first board.
- Place the jig over one of the inserted dowels, push the fence until it touches the board’s face, and lock it in position. This sets the jig for the matching holes.
- Position the second board so the dowels align with the routed slot in the jig’s front, ensuring the fence is tight against the board face.
- Clamp the workpiece securely and drill the matching holes. Join the boards together.
Face Joint
The adjustable dowel jig can make two types of face joints:
- Edge face joint — where the joint is close to the board’s edge.
- Center face joint — where the joint is in the middle of a wider board or panel.
1. Face joint at the edge of the board:
- Drill and insert dowels along the edge of the first board.
- Place the jig over one inserted dowel, push the fence until it touches the board face, and lock it in place.
- Clamp the boards so the joined edges are perfectly parallel.
- Drill the matching holes in the second board and join them.
2. Face joint in the center of a board:
- Align and clamp the boards together.
- Remove the fence from the jig — this allows the body of the jig to sit flush in the middle of the board.
- Place the jig over the inserted dowels, ensuring it’s flat and aligned.
- Drill all matching holes in one straight line, then join the boards.
My Take
I love this jig. I’ve used it on several projects, and I’m really happy with how it performs. The adjustable fence makes setup quick, and the self-centering pins keep everything aligned for accurate, repeatable joints. Compared to the simpler self-centering jig, this one is far more versatile — it handles both edge-to-edge and face joints with ease, making it a great fit for everything from furniture building to cabinet work.
If you’re after precision, this jig delivers. Just remember, accuracy here is key — perfectly aligned holes and centering pins are what make those joints nice and flush. I used a drill stand for drilling the centering pin holes, and I’d recommend doing the same.
I keep reaching for this jig, no matter the project. Being able to tweak it for different joint types just makes things so much easier — and the accuracy I get out of it still surprises me every time.
If you’re just starting out, you might want to take a look at my Self-Centering Dowel Jig build first — it’s a bit simpler and a great introduction to dowel joinery. But if you’re ready for the next step, this adjustable version is absolutely worth making.
So… ready to build one for your workshop? You can download the full adjustable dowel jig plans here and start making your own today!
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