If you own a table saw, a crosscut sled is one of the very first jigs you should build. It quickly becomes a workshop essential — making your cuts more precise, your work safer, and your projects more enjoyable. I can’t think of a build where I don’t reach for mine.
This sled isn’t just about crosscuts, though. I designed it with a T-track in the back fence so I can easily attach other jigs — like a miter sled, spline jig, or hexagon jig. That makes it a multipurpose platform I can adapt depending on the project.
I also use it constantly when making cutting boards: trimming strips, squaring panels, or cleaning up final edges. If you’re curious, I’ve also shared my favorite DIY Crosscut Fence for a Table Saw, which pairs perfectly with this sled for even more accuracy.
In this guide, I’ll walk you through how to make a table saw sled step by step, show you how to square it properly, and share a few ways I use it in my own shop. By the end, you’ll see why this jig is the backbone of so many woodworking setups.
RELATED:
DIY Table Saw Sled Video
Want to see the sled in action? I filmed the entire build so you can follow along step by step. In the video, I cover the full process — from cutting the base and adding runners to squaring the fence and adding safety features.
🎥 Watch below and build your own sled alongside me:
👉 If you enjoy the video, don’t forget to subscribe to my YouTube channel — it’s free and helps me keep sharing more jig builds and woodworking tutorials.
Table of Contents
- The Material You Will Need
- What is a Table Saw Sled and What is it Used For?
- What Addons Can I Use With This Table Saw Sled?
- How to Make a Table Saw Sled
- Step 1: Cut the Base of the Sled
- Step 2: Add Miter Slot Runners
- Step 3: Make the Back Fence
- Step 4: Make the Front Fence
- Step 5: Install the Front Fence
- Step 6: Make a Safety Box
- How to Square a Crosscut Sled
- How to Use a Table Saw Sled
- Crosscut Sled vs Miter Gauge
- Conclusion
- FAQ
*Safety is your responsibility. Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first!
Materials & Tools
Materials
Plywood (Base): 600 × 470 × 12 mm (23.62″ × 18.50″ × 0.47″)
Plywood (Front Support): 600 × 90 × 12 mm (23.62″ × 3.54″ × 0.47″)
Plywood (Back Support): 260 × 90 × 24 mm (10.24″ × 3.54″ × 0.94″)
Plywood Strips (Runners): 2× 460 × 20 × 12 mm (18.11″ × 0.79″ × 0.47″)
Plywood Strip (Fence): 600 × 55 × 12 mm (23.62″ × 2.17″ × 0.47″)
MDF Strips (Fence Reinforcement): 2× 600 × 12 × 3 mm (23.62″ × 0.47″ × 0.12″)
M6 bolts, washers, T-nuts, screws
Wood glue, sandpaper, DIY or aluminum T-tracks
Check all the Tools I Use
Tools:
- Table Saw – https://amzn.to/47mWiGf
- Miter Gauge – https://amzn.to/48DqfTC
- Trim Router – https://amzn.to/3HbQcOg
- Cordless Hand Drill – https://amzn.to/3HqLEnH
- T-track Clamps – https://amzn.to/3tEKaCW
- Spring Clamps – https://amzn.to/41Nuh9D
- Large Square – https://amzn.to/4aGaT2D
- Machinist Square / Speed Square
- Marking Gauge
Other:
- MicroJig GRR-Ripper Push Block – https://amzn.to/3vjQSP7 (Grr-Ripper Review)
- Table Saw Blade – https://amzn.to/48maocv
- Wood Glue – https://amzn.to/48ltKhJ
- Sandpaper Sheets – https://amzn.to/41OMx2p
- Straight Router Bit – 6mm – https://amzn.to/3NQNDVX
- M6 Bolts, Washers, T-Nuts, Wood Screws – https://amzn.to/41PodgQ
- DIY T-track Bolts
We may earn an affiliate commission when you buy something through our retail links. As an Amazon Associate AllFlavor Workshop earns from qualifying purchases.
What is a Table Saw Sled and Why Use It?
A table saw sled (often called a crosscut sled) is a flat platform that rides in your saw’s miter slots. It keeps your workpiece secure and square as you slide it through the blade. In simple terms: it makes your table saw safer, more accurate, and a lot more versatile.
From my own experience, building one was a turning point in my workshop. Before I had it, crosscuts felt less controlled and sometimes risky. Once I made my first sled, I realized how much smoother and safer every project became — especially when cutting larger panels or smaller workpieces that are tricky to control with just a miter gauge.
Benefits of a Table Saw Sled
Enhances Safety – keeps your hands away from the blade and reduces kickback.
Boosts Accuracy – perfect for repeatable crosscuts and squaring panels.
Adds Versatility – with a T-track, you can attach add-ons like stop blocks, spline jigs, or even a miter jig.
👉 I use this sled constantly when making cutting boards — trimming strips, squaring panels, or cleaning up final edges. Once you have a solid sled, it opens the door to countless other jigs and projects.
What Addons Can I Use With This Table Saw Sled?
One of the reasons I built this sled the way I did was versatility. The T-track in the back fence lets me quickly attach different jigs and accessories depending on the project. That means this sled isn’t just for crosscuts — it becomes a base for a whole set of addons.
Here are the main ones I use (and have written about on the blog):
Spline Jig – perfect for reinforcing box corners with decorative splines. (Spline addon)
Miter Jig – my go-to for making picture frames with precise 45° cuts. (Miter addon)
Hexagon Jig – fun addon for making geometric projects like hexagon shelves.
Stop Blocks & Hold-Downs – great for repeatable cuts and extra safety. (T-track addons)
👉 I often use this sled when making cutting boards. With a stop block clamped in the T-track, it’s easy to trim strips, square up panels, or clean final edges with repeatable precision.
Let's Start Building!
Now comes the fun part — building the sled itself. This version is sized for my DWE7491RS table saw, but you can easily adjust the dimensions to fit your own saw. All the cuts can be made right on the table saw, so you don’t need extra tools beyond the basics.
I built the entire sled from Baltic birch plywood, with the fence reinforced by thin MDF strips. The runners are also plywood, but aluminum or UHMW plastic strips work just as well and are more resistant to changes in humidity.
For flexibility, I added a DIY T-track in the front fence. You could also use an aluminum T-track — just don’t use steel, since your saw blade needs to cut through the opening.
Crosscut Sled Properties
Material: Baltic birch plywood + MDF strips
Dimensions: 600 × 470 × 90 mm (23.62″ × 18.50″ × 3.54″)
Fence: Plywood/MDF combo with routed T-track slot
👉 This is the “core jig” in my shop. I use it not only for clean crosscuts but also as the base for other addons like my spline jig, miter jig, and hexagon jig.
How to Make a Simple Table Saw Sled
Step 1: Cut the Base of the Sled
Trim the sled base to your preferred dimensions. I use 600 × 470 × 12 mm (23.62″ × 18.50″ × 0.47″)—slightly smaller than the saw table, but perfect for most jobs.
Next, mark the blade path on the base: place the panel on the saw, set it where the kerf will run, and make a light pencil line. Then move the fence to align with the base edge and lock it—this keeps everything square for the next steps.
💡 Pro Tips
Choose the flattest sheet of plywood you have; square the adjacent edges before marking the blade line.
Lightly label FRONT/BACK/LEFT/RIGHT so you reference the same edges throughout the build.
Step 2: Add Miter Slot Runners
Cut two plywood strips for the runners — each 460mm x 20mm x 12mm (18 1/8″ x 13/16″ x 15/32″). The runners should be just slightly thinner than the depth of the miter slots so they don’t scrape the bottom when installed.
When trimming them to width, always use a push block for safety and to get those fine, controlled cuts. The runners need to slide freely in the slots with no side-to-side play. If you want an even smoother glide, lightly bevel the edges.
To install the runners:
Place a few thin washers in the miter slots so the runners sit slightly proud of the table surface.
Spread wood glue on the top of each runner.
Carefully position the sled base over the runners, using the rip fence to keep everything square to the blade.
Once dry, add countersunk screws if you want extra strength.
🔧 Pro Tip: Always pre-drill screw holes in the runners. Driving screws without pre-drilling can cause the wood to swell or split, making the fit too tight.
After the glue sets, slide the sled back and forth several times. If the motion feels sticky, lightly sand the runners until the sled glides smoothly.
Step 3: Make the Back Fence
Cut two plywood pieces for the back fence and laminate them together to make a 260mm x 90mm x 24mm (10 1/4″ x 3 1/2″ x 15/16″) block. Once dry, attach the fence to the base with both wood glue and screws for maximum strength.
This back fence is the one positioned furthest from you when using the sled — its job is mainly structural. To create the blade slot, slide the sled forward through the running blade, stopping just before you reach the front edge of the base. This cut will form the initial kerf line and help align the front fence later.
⚠️ Note: The back fence doesn’t need to be perfectly square to the blade. Its main purpose is strength and stability.
🔧 Pro Tip: Slightly chamfer the top back edge of the fence. It makes the sled easier to handle and prevents chipping along the edge over time.
Step 4: Make the Front Fence
Now build the front fence — the one closest to you when using the sled. This is the fence that holds your workpiece square during cuts, so accuracy matters here.
Cut a plywood strip to 600mm x 55mm x 12mm (23 5/8″ x 2 1/8″ x 15/32″). To add a T-track, route several shallow grooves along the length of the plywood, then glue and screw two MDF strips (3mm / 1/8″ thick) into place.
Bevel the leading edge of the fence — this small detail helps sawdust clear out instead of building up against the workpiece. Finally, reinforce the fence by attaching a larger plywood panel behind it for rigidity.
🔧 Pro Tip: If you don’t want to make a homemade T-track, you can install an aluminum track instead. Just avoid steel tracks, since the saw blade can’t cut through them safely.
Step 5: Install the Front Fence
The front fence (the one closest to you) is the most important part of the sled — it determines the accuracy of every cut. Take your time with this step.
Position the fence on the sled base and secure the right side with a single screw.
Use a large square to carefully align the fence so it sits perfectly perpendicular to the saw blade.
Clamp the opposite end of the fence to hold it steady once alignment is correct.
Flip the sled upside down and add more countersunk screws along the length of the fence to lock it in place.
Run the sled through the blade again, cutting into the fence to establish a clean reference kerf line.
⚠️ Safety Note: At this stage, the sled doesn’t yet have a protective box over the blade exit. Keep your hands well clear of the blade path and be especially mindful of your fingers while making this cut. (We’ll add a safety box in the next step.)
🔧 Pro Tip: Always make a test cut after installing the fence. If your cut isn’t perfectly square, loosen the initial screw, realign with the square, and re-tighten. Fine adjustments here will save you headaches later.
Step 6: Make a Box to Protect Your Fingers
With the sled fully functional, it’s time to make it safer. The blade now exits through the front fence — so adding a protective box here is essential. This shield keeps your hands and fingers away from the blade path during use.
Cut a few scrap pieces of plywood and assemble them into a simple box (around 100mm x 100mm x 120mm / 4″ x 4″ x 4 3/4″ works well, but the exact size isn’t critical). Glue and screw the pieces together, then attach the box securely over the blade exit on the front fence.
⚠️ Safety Note: Always double-check that the box fully covers the blade slot, even at maximum cutting height. A box that’s too shallow or too narrow defeats its purpose.
🔧 Pro Tip: Add a small chamfer or roundover to the edges of the box. It makes it more comfortable to grab when moving the sled and reduces wear on the corners.
And this is what the finished Table Saw Sled / Crosscut Sled looks like.
With the sled built and the safety box in place, the next step is to make sure it’s cutting square. Accuracy here is what will make your sled truly useful.
How to Square a Crosscut Sled?
Getting your crosscut sled square to the saw blade is one of the most important parts of the build. Even a slight misalignment will show up in your cuts.
There are a couple of ways to square the sled:
Using the table saw fence and a large square (my go-to method):
This is the method I use most often. I run the sled up against the table saw fence, then use a large square to check and adjust the front fence until it’s perpendicular to the blade. It’s not the most precise option, but it’s quick, easy, and more than accurate enough for almost any woodworking project — especially your first sled.The 5-cut method (for ultimate precision):
If you want to get your sled as close to perfect as possible, the 5-cut method is the way to go. This involves making five cuts on the same board, then measuring the offcut to determine exactly how much your sled is out of square. It takes more time, but it’s the most accurate method.
🔧 Pro Tip: Start with the fence + square method — it’s fast, simple, and usually plenty accurate. If later on you find you need tighter tolerances (like for fine furniture or box making), you can always re-adjust your sled using the 5-cut method.
How to Use a Table Saw Sled
A crosscut sled makes cutting safer and more accurate than using just the miter gauge. While its main job is handling crosscuts, with add-ons like stop blocks, spline jigs, or miter sleds, it can take on far more complex tasks — picture frames, box splines, even hexagon cuts.
For a basic crosscut, here’s the process I follow:
Set up the sled: Place it in the miter slots and slide it back and forth to make sure it moves freely.
Position the workpiece: Lay your board against the front fence (the one closest to you), making sure it’s flush and tight.
Adjust blade height: Raise the blade just above the thickness of your workpiece.
Secure the workpiece: For repetitive cuts, use a stop block. For tricky or small pieces, clamps add extra safety.
Make the cut: Start the saw, keep both hands on the sled handles, and slowly push it forward through the blade.
⚠️ Safety Note: Keep your fingers well clear of the blade path. The safety box protects your hands at the exit point, but good habits — like using push blocks for small stock — matter just as much.
🔧 Pro Tip: Once you’re comfortable with crosscuts, experiment with add-ons. A stop block is the easiest upgrade and saves a ton of time when cutting multiple pieces to the same length.
Comparison Table: Crosscut Sled vs Miter Gauge
By now, you’ve seen how a crosscut sled is built, squared, and used in practice. But how does it stack up against the standard miter gauge that comes with most table saws? Let’s take a closer look.
| Feature | Crosscut Sled | Miter Gauge |
|---|---|---|
| Accuracy | Provides a large reference surface; excellent for square, repeatable cuts | Good for basic cuts, but accuracy can vary due to play in the slot |
| Workpiece Support | Fully supports the workpiece throughout the cut, reducing tear-out | Limited support — better suited for smaller stock |
| Safety | Safer — keeps hands further from the blade; can add safety box & clamps | Less safe; hands are closer to the blade |
| Versatility | Can be customized with T-tracks, stop blocks, and jigs (miter, spline, hexagon, etc.) | Mainly for straight and angled cuts; fewer add-on options |
| Ease of Use | Very stable, especially for larger panels or repeated cuts | Lighter and quicker for small, simple cuts |
| Best For | Beginners and anyone wanting precise, safe, repeatable crosscuts | Quick, rough cuts or portability |
In short, both tools have their place, but if you’re just starting out or want the safest and most accurate option, a crosscut sled is the clear winner. The added support, precision, and safety features make it one of the best first jigs you can build for your table saw. Once you’ve used one, it’s hard to go back to relying on a standard miter gauge for crosscuts.
Conclusion: Why Every Workshop Needs a Crosscut Sled
A crosscut sled is one of the most valuable jigs you can add to your table saw setup. It not only improves accuracy and repeatability but also makes every cut safer and more controlled.
Whether you’re building a large sled for handling panels or a smaller version for quick cuts, this jig quickly proves its worth. And since you can add accessories like stop blocks, spline jigs, or miter attachments, your sled can grow with you as your projects get more complex.
If you haven’t built one yet, I highly recommend giving it a try — it’s a simple project that delivers huge benefits in the workshop. Once you start using a sled, you’ll wonder how you ever managed without one.
👉 Want to build your own? Download my free plans and start making your crosscut sled today.
Frequently Asked Questions
1. Should I get a crosscut sled for my table saw?
Yes — a crosscut sled is one of the best upgrades you can make. It greatly improves safety by keeping your hands away from the blade and provides a stable surface for more accurate, repeatable cuts.
2. What’s the difference between a crosscut sled and a miter gauge?
A crosscut sled supports the entire workpiece, making it easier to cut square and repeatable pieces. A miter gauge is smaller and mainly used for quick angled cuts, but it offers less accuracy and support.
3. What’s the best size for a crosscut sled?
There’s no one-size-fits-all. A sled roughly the same width as your table saw is a good starting point. Many woodworkers build a large sled for panels and a smaller, lightweight sled for everyday cuts.
4. What’s the best material for building a crosscut sled?
Birch plywood and MDF are popular choices because they’re stable and stay flat. Avoid boards that warp easily, since accuracy depends on a perfectly flat base and fence.
5. What are T-tracks (or T-slots) used for in a crosscut sled?
T-tracks make your sled more versatile. They allow you to add stop blocks, hold-down clamps, or specialty jigs (like spline or miter attachments) that expand what your sled can do.
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