There are many types of corner clamps. Whether homemade or manufactured, each clamp has its own use, but believe me when I say there are never enough clamps for woodworking projects.
I have already built several types of clamps for the workshop, including both simple corner clamps and 90-degree clamps, however, all of them are operated with one hand only. This time I built a double handle corner clamp – it is versatile, more solid, and can be used for heavy-duty projects where more clamping power is necessary.
The design of the clamp resembles two drill press vises connected together at 90 degrees. One of the main advantages is that each of the jaws can be used separately and independently, giving the tool many ways to use it.
It can serve as a clamp, a workbench vise, or even a saw guide for miter cuts. It’s more than just a clamp, and its versatility is why I added it to my workshop. Surprisingly, I find myself using it mostly as a picture frame jig.
To build this two-handled clamp I was following the same process as when building a drill press vise. I have used material that is easily available in any hardware store. The body is made of birch plywood and MDF, and the screw mechanism uses a threaded rod and homemade star knobs.
Like I said before, this tool has many uses. But no matter how you use it, it’s a good idea to clamp it down for extra stability and support.
NOTE: Making this right-angle clamp isn’t too hard, even if you’re new to woodworking. It might take a bit of time, but if you go step-by-step, getting the jaws to a perfect 90 degrees shouldn’t be a problem. That’s the key to getting the jig just right.
RELATED: Here are some other corner clamps I’ve made. Take a look for some ideas! Having these clamps around the workshop has been a game changer.
How to Make a Double Handle Corner Clamp Video
If you want to see how it is done, watch the video below for a step-by-step guide on how to make a 90 degree corner clamp with two handles.
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Table of Contents
- Double Handle Corner Clamp Video
- Double Handle Corner Clamp Plans
- The Material you will need
- General Questions
- Does quick release have any advantage with clamps?
- How to make a double handle corner clamp, DIY right angle clamp
- Step 1: Cut the corner clamp base
- Step 2: Make t-track slots
- Step 3: Fix the base pieces together
- Step 4: Attach the vise jaws to the base
- Step 5: Cut the moving jaws and make the screw housing
- Step 6: Assemble and complete the jaws
- Step 7: Add T-track runners
- How to use a Double Handle Corner Clamp, Right Angle Clamp, Workbench Vise
- Clamping corners with a double handle corner clamp
- Woodworking jigs used
*Safety is your responsibility. Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first! Always be cautious and careful when using any power tool.
Material needed for a Double Handle 90 Degree Clamp
Double Handle Right Angle Clamp:
Plywood – 235 mm x 235 mm x 12 mm – https://amzn.to/47oGqmL
MDF – 235 mm x 235 mm x 5 mm
Clamp Jaws:
Plywood – 6x – 100 mm x 25 mm x 24 mm
Plywood – 2x – 15 mm x 25 mm x 12 mm
MDF – 2x – 25 mm x 27 mm x 5 mm
Check all the Tools I Use
Tools:
Circular Saw – https://amzn.to/4aMD0xg
Trim Router – https://amzn.to/3HbQcOg
Hand Drill – https://amzn.to/3HqLEnH
Chisel Set – https://amzn.to/3tHNJrT
Spring Clamps – https://amzn.to/41Nuh9D
F-Clamps – https://amzn.to/48ArzY1
Machinist Square / Speed Square
DIY Marking Gauge
Other:
Wood Glue – https://amzn.to/48ltKhJ
Epoxy – https://amzn.to/3tJ5R4L
Double-Sided Woodworking Tape – https://amzn.to/3tPMGpM
Drill bits – 2mm, 6mm, 7,5mm – https://amzn.to/48Kaaf7
Router bits – 6mm – https://amzn.to/3NQNDVX
Forstner bit s- 15mm, 20mm, 35mm – https://amzn.to/3Hd1aDb
M6 Wing Nut, M6 Nuts, Washers
Threaded rod
Wooden Knobs
Wood screws (longer 35 mm, shorter 13 mm)
Hardware Assortment Kit – https://amzn.to/41PodgQ
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What are the advantages of a double handle corner clamp?
Corner clamps are a staple for any woodworker, but when it comes to superior strength and adaptability, the double handle corner clamp stands out. Here’s why I find it to be a game-changer in the workshop:
Versatility: The clamp’s unique design, reminiscent of two drill press vises joined at 90 degrees, allows each jaw to operate independently. This means it can be more than just a clamp – it’s a workbench vise, a saw guide for miter cuts, or even a jig for picture frames.
Enhanced Clamping Power: With two handles, this clamp offers increased force, making it perfect for heavy-duty projects that demand more holding strength.
Dual-Functionality: Unlike traditional clamps that are single-handed, this double handle version can grip two different materials or parts at once, providing stability from both directions.
Greater Stability: Thanks to its robust construction, it guarantees that the materials remain firmly in place, reducing the likelihood of errors.
Does quick release have any advantage with clamps?
The “quick release” in clamps is a mechanism for fast adjustments, allowing rapid opening or closing without manual unscrewing. It’s ideal for frequent clamp repositioning or removal.
While the quick-release feature seems appealing, I’m not too fond of it, especially in the double-handle corner clamp. It might seem like a handy upgrade, but I’m not sure it saves as much time as you’d think. In fact, I feel the opposite.
From what I’ve seen, many quick-release clamps don’t offer precise clamping due to this feature. The quick-release mechanism can be a bit fiddly and often doesn’t hold materials exactly at 90 degrees, requiring extra tweaks to get it right.
I find that a clamp without the quick-release feature offers better precision. I’m okay taking a little extra time turning the handle, as long as I’m sure the fit is spot-on.
Let’s Build It!
The base of the clamp is made of birch plywood and MDF, the jaws from plywood and the spindle from a threaded rod, a t-nut, and a star knob. All the materials are easily available in local stores. When making woodworking jigs I am primarily using Baltic birch plywood mainly for its strength, durability, and grain texture – if you want to build quality projects go for Baltic Birch.
The double handle clamp is a versatile tool, perfect for various tasks. Whether it’s guiding a saw, acting as a drill press vise, or holding corner joints tightly, its design is up for the challenge. With a circle cut on the base board, any excess glue conveniently drips away. Plus, you have the flexibility to use it standalone or secure it to a workbench for added stability.
Double Handle Corner Clamp Parameters:
- Durable right-angle clamp made from plywood and MDF
- Double handle jaw for precise 90-degree angles
- Total dimensions –235 x 235 mm
- Jaw capacity/Clamping range – 5 7 mm (Enough for most jobs, supports standard sizes)
- Jaw width – 100 mm
- Star knob handles – Easy to grip handles
- Quick setup, can be used freely or clamped to a workbench
To put together the corner clamp, you’ll just need two basic tools: a jigsaw and a hand drill. If you have them on hand, a trimming router paired with a router dado jig can be used to carve a precise slot in the base, but it’s not a must-have. Remember, there’s more than one way to cut slots and squares in wood.
How to make a Double Handle Corner Clamp - DIY Right Angle Clamp
Step 1: Cut the corner clamp base
FFor the base, grab a birch plywood board measuring (235 mm x 235 mm x 12 mm) and an MDF desk (235 mm x 235 mm x 5 mm).
Draw the design on the wood pieces and make the cuts. I used a circular saw together with a circular saw track for clean cuts and a jigsaw table to make the inner cuts.
Use a Forstner bit to drill a circular hole in the corner of the MDF board to catch any excess glue.
Step 2: Make the t-track slots
Draw the slots on both of the pieces (plywood, MDF) and cut the inner parts. The plywood piece together with the MDF piece creates a t-track for the runners. I made all the cuts with a router groove jig (you can also use an adjustable router template guide).
NOTE: There are several methods to create a T-track without resorting to a router. For instance, employing a jigsaw or a coping saw, combined with sandpaper, is just one of the alternatives.
Step 3: Fix the base pieces together
Stick the two pieces together, being careful not to let any glue seep into the t-slots. If it does, wipe it away quickly before it hardens.
To hold them in place, use wood screws from the underside of the base, ensuring they sit level with the surface.
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Step 4: Attach the vise jaws to the base
For the static jaw, slice two plywood sections measuring 100 mm x 25 mm x 24 mm. A table saw is ideal for this, but a circular saw works too – that’s what I used. After cutting, smooth out the edges and ensure the pieces sit snugly side by side.
Alright, pay close attention here – this step is crucial!
- First, attach the jaws to the base using glue, and double-check with a square to ensure they’re set at a perfect right angle. This is vital for the clamp’s accuracy.
- After the glue sets, reinforce them with screws, ensuring they’re level with the surface.
Step 5: Cut the moving jaws and make the screw housing
Prepare 4 plywood sections for the moving jaws and the screw housing, each measuring 100 mm x 25 mm x 24 mm. Make sure all sides are smoothly sanded.
- Moving Jaw – drill a 20mm and a 15mm hole in the center of the piece using a Fortner bit. Ensure the depth can fit two washers and a 6mm hex nut comfortably.
- Screw Housing – drill a 20mm and a 7,5mm hole in the center of the other wood piece. Then, securely fit a 6mm t-nut into the wood.
Step 6: Assemble and complete the jaws
Affix the screw housing onto the base using glue, and reinforce it with screws. Ensure that the stationary jaw and the screw housing are aligned parallelly.
Screw the 135 mm threaded rod into the t-nut, then attach a 20mm washer followed by a star knob. Star knobs look really great on handles and they are so easy to make.
Use epoxy to glue a hex nut on both ends of the rod. To finish the handle, slide the wooden knob onto the hex nut.
Insert a 15mm washer in the moving jaw (serves as a plate for pushing the jaw forward), mount it on the threaded rod, and seal the nut in the jaw by gluing over a 20mm washer with epoxy.
Step 7: Add T-track runners
Add a 20mm runner in the t-slot to make the moving jaw more stable. The jaw will move more easily along the surface and it will stay in place while tightening the workpiece between the jaws. You can use a jigsaw table or a table saw sled to cut small wood pieces – these tools are perfect for that.
Glue the runner pieces together and attach it to the moving jaw with glue and screws.
Great! Now you have an adjustable double handle corner clamp for precise 90 degree joints!
If you’re wondering how to clamp a corner efficiently and seek a device that goes beyond just clamping, then this is the tool for you. Its versatility is commendable. It’s comfortable, safe, and user-friendly – a wonderful addition to any workshop and an ideal weekend project.
How to Use a Double Handle Corner Clamp
The steps provided below describe how to use a double handle corner clamp / right angle clamp. What is amazing about a double handle corner clamp is that it can be used in multiple different ways. It can serve as a cutting guide for miter cuts, it can be used as a simple workbench vise or a device for corner joints and miter joints.
In my case, I use it most often to make miter joints and to join picture frame corners. Unlike other types of clamps, what I appreciate is that this one not only allows me to make T-joints but allows me to join pieces of wood with different widths as well. You wouldn’t believe how handy it is.
Clamping corners with a double handle corner clamp
- Insert the first wood piece in the clamp and tighten gently
- Insert the second wood piece in the clamp
- Apply glue on the ends and start tightening both jaws
- Secure the wood pieces with screws or other types of fasteners
TIP: The design of the device contains a drilled hole for glue excess but you can place additionally a piece of wax paper right below the joint. The paper will allow you to easily get rid of glue excess keeping both the device and the workbench clean.
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