If you’re using a table saw regularly, having a few solid jigs can completely transform your workflow. Whether you’re cutting boards to size, making angled frames, or trying to get perfect repetitive cuts, these jigs will help you work faster, safer, and more accurately.
Over the years, I’ve built and tested tens of table saw jigs. Some were simple, others more complex—but a handful of them stuck with me and became part of almost every project. In this post, I’m sharing the jigs I use the most in my workshop and why I think every woodworker should build them.
Most of them I’ve built more than once and even turned into full plans, so others could easily recreate them (see below).
These are the jigs that help me go from rough lumber to clean, precise parts with confidence. Even if you’re just getting started, you’ll find something here that’s simple to build and worth keeping on your table saw setup.
👉 Link “cutting boards” (if mentioned later) to Best Jigs for Making Cutting Boards (And How to Use Them)
Table of Contents
- What Makes a Great Table Saw Jig?
- Jig #1 – Crosscut Sled
- Jig #2 – Table Saw Spline Jig
- Jig #3 – Miter Sled
- Jig #4 – Thin Strip Jig
- Jig #5 – Tapering Jig
- Jig #7 – Tenoning Jig
- Jig #6 – Table Saw Circle Jig
- Comparison Table: At-a-Glance Uses
- Final Thoughts (Personal Tips + Experience)
- FAQ
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1. What Makes a Great Table Saw Jig?
A good table saw jig should do three things: make your cuts more accurate, improve safety, and save you time. If it doesn’t do at least one of these, it’s probably not worth having on your bench.
The best jigs are the ones that:
- Are easy to set up and align
- Give you clean, repeatable results
- Work with the type of projects you do most often
- Last through repeated use (or can be easily rebuilt when needed)
Most importantly, great jigs remove the guesswork—so you can focus more on building and less on measuring, adjusting, and redoing cuts.
I’ve chosen the jigs in this list based on how useful they’ve been in real projects, especially for tasks like cutting boards, frames, boxes, and joinery. And the best part? You can build them all yourself using materials you likely already have.
2. Crosscut Sled
A crosscut sled is one of the most useful jigs you can build for your table saw. It makes crosscuts more accurate, safer, and repeatable—especially on small or wide pieces that would otherwise be tricky to control against the miter gauge.
If you’re still using the stock miter gauge that came with your saw, you’ll immediately notice the upgrade once you start using a sled. It provides better support, prevents tear-out, and keeps your hands farther from the blade.
Why it’s useful
- Improves cut accuracy for 90° crosscuts
- Increases safety by offering better support and hand distance
- Great for cutting parts to final length and squaring up ends
- Especially helpful for batch cutting identical pieces
- Can be used as a base platform for other jig attachments
My setup
My sled is built entirely from Baltic birch plywood, with hardwood runners for smooth movement in the miter slots. What makes it extra versatile is the integrated DIY T-track, made from a combination of Baltic birch and MDF. This T-track isn’t just for stop blocks and other saw sled accessories—it’s actually the base for several other jigs I’ve built.
For example, my table saw spline jig is designed as an add-on that slides directly into the T-track on this sled. This way, I don’t need to build an entirely new platform—just swap or attach jigs as needed. It’s all sized to fit my DeWalt DWE7491RS table saw and has become one of the jigs I rely on the most, especially for building cutting boards, boxes, and projects that need square, clean ends.
🔗 Related:
How to Make a Simple Table Saw Crosscut Sled (With Video)
3. Table Saw Spline Jig
A spline jig lets you reinforce miter joints while adding a decorative element to your work. It’s perfect for picture frames, small boxes, and anything with 45° corners that need a little extra strength and visual interest.
The jig cradles the corner of your workpiece at a perfect angle, allowing you to cut spline slots safely and consistently on the table saw.
Why it’s useful
- Reinforces weak miter joints (especially in boxes and frames)
- Adds a nice design element using contrasting wood splines
- Helps you achieve perfect alignment and depth every time
- Works best when paired with a crosscut sled
My setup
My spline jig is built entirely from Baltic birch plywood, including the adjustable stoppers. Instead of acting as a standalone jig, it’s designed to be a modular add-on to my crosscut sled. The base of the jig mounts directly into the T-track built into the sled, allowing it to sit securely and align perfectly every time.
This modular setup makes it incredibly fast to install or remove, and it means I don’t have to build a whole separate jig. I use it mainly for box joints, gift projects, and whenever I want to strengthen or decorate a mitered frame.
🔗 Related:
DIY Table Saw Spline Jig – Add-On for Crosscut Sled
4. Miter Sled (Picture Frame Jig)
Cutting precise 45° angles is essential for making frames, trim, and clean corner joints—and that’s where a dedicated miter sled shines. Unlike a miter gauge, which can be tricky to dial in and unstable on longer pieces, a sled provides full support and consistently accurate results.
In my workshop, I’ve built two versions of this jig I often use—each for a specific type of project.
Why it’s useful
- Makes clean and precise 45° cuts
- Safer and more stable than a miter gauge
- Perfect for making picture frames, boxes, or decorative trim
- Allows for batch cutting when paired with a stop block
My setup
The first version is a compact add-on that mounts directly to the T-track on my crosscut sled. It’s made from Baltic birch plywood and built specifically for smaller workpieces, like short trim or picture frame parts. Because it’s lightweight and easy to attach, I can quickly mount or remove it depending on the project.
The second version is a standalone miter sled that runs in the table saw’s miter slots. It’s better suited for longer pieces of wood, such as full-length frame parts. This one is also built from Baltic birch plywood, but the runners are made from oak hardwood. It includes a repeatable stop block, mounted in a DIY T-track made from Baltic birch and MDF. That stop makes it easy to batch out identical angled cuts without remeasuring.
🔗 Related:
DIY Table Saw Picture Frame Jig
Simple Crosscut Sled for DeWalt Table Saw
5. Thin Strip Jig
If you’ve ever tried cutting thin strips on a table saw using just the rip fence, you know how risky and inconsistent it can be. A thin strip jig solves that problem by letting you cut repeatable, uniform strips without trapping the piece between the blade and the fence—which is both safer and more accurate.
This jig is great for inlays, edge banding, box sides, or any time you need lots of thin, consistent pieces.
Why it’s useful
- Allows safe and accurate cutting of thin strips
- Reduces risk of kickback by eliminating blade/fence trapping
- Provides excellent repeatability
- Works with nearly any table saw
My setup
My thin strip jig is made from layered Baltic birch plywood, and it rides along the table saw fence (not in the miter slot). On top, there’s a custom T-track built from birch plywood and MDF, which holds two key accessories:
- A push handle for guiding the jig smoothly
- A hold-down/push-down arm to keep the cut strip pressed firmly in place
There’s also a small adjustable backstop at the rear of the jig that lightly presses the thin strip forward once it’s cut. That helps prevent burning or pinching against the blade and lets me keep the work moving safely and efficiently.
This jig works with any table saw setup and is a must-have when you’re batching out strips for small boxes, detailed trim, or laminated panels.
6. Tapering Jig
A tapering jig lets you safely and accurately cut angled edges on long boards—whether you’re shaping furniture legs, adding decorative details, or straightening irregular edges. It’s one of those jigs you might not use every day, but when you need it, it’s absolutely essential.
Why it’s useful
- Creates consistent and repeatable tapers
- Safer than freehand methods
- Ideal for cutting table or bench legs
- Can double as a basic jointing sled
My setup
My tapering jig is a fence-riding design that doesn’t require runners in the miter slots. Instead, it’s guided by your table saw’s rip fence and slides forward with control.
The base is made from Baltic birch plywood, while the adjustable angled fence is a spruce wood strip. Since there’s minimal pressure on the fence during the cut, there’s no need for hardwood or plywood—it simply acts as a guide to set the cutting angle.
The fence sits in tracks routed into the base, allowing me to easily dial in the taper. On top of the fence, I added clamp tracks that hold adjustable hold-downs, keeping the board firmly in place during the cut. There’s also a movable backstop that acts as a support and a repeatable stop block.
It’s quick to set up, and incredibly versatile—not only for furniture tapers but also for straightening edges on boards that don’t have a clean reference side.
🔗 Related:
Taper Jig for a Table Saw (Beginner-Friendly Build)
7. Table Saw Tenoning Jig
A tenoning jig lets you cut accurate, repeatable tenons for mortise and tenon joints—one of the strongest and most time-tested joints in woodworking. Instead of fussing with shoulder planes or routers, this jig helps you achieve clean results right on the table saw, with full control over cheek thickness and offset.
Why it’s useful
- Cuts perfect tenons for strong joinery
- Makes repeated, consistent tenon cuts fast and easy
- Also great for cutting notches and joints like the castle joint
- Safer and more stable than holding workpieces upright by hand
My setup
I built my tenoning jig entirely from MDF, and it rides over the table saw fence—almost like a shoe sliding along a rail. This design makes it very stable and allows me to work safely with upright pieces.
The jig includes two T-tracks that support an adjustable back fence, which can be set either perfectly vertical or tilted if needed. The workpiece is held tightly in place using track clamps, pressed directly against the fence. It’s easy to lock everything in securely for multiple passes.
To dial in the tenon thickness or notch width, I simply adjust the table saw’s rip fence—moving the entire jig laterally for each cut. This gives me precise control without altering the jig setup itself.
I mostly use it for mortise and tenon joinery, but it’s also very handy for cutting clean notches or making custom joints like the castle joint.
8. Table Saw Circle Jig
Cutting circles on a table saw might not be the first approach that comes to mind—but with the right jig, it’s very doable. While a router circle jig is generally the go-to option for most woodworkers (especially for larger or cleaner arcs), a table saw circle jig still has its place—particularly for smaller projects and when a router isn’t available.
Why it’s useful
- Lets you cut accurate small to mid-sized circles using your table saw
- Great for making bases, trays, round insets, and decorative discs
- A useful alternative when you don’t have a router available
- Can be tuned for repeatable results with precise diameters
My setup
My table saw circle jig is optimized for smaller circles up to around 50 cm (20″) in diameter. The base is made from Baltic birch plywood, and it rides in the table saw’s miter slot using an oak runner. To fix the jig in place, I use stop blocks that hold it securely in the sled—both in front and underneath the runner.
The real heart of the jig is the adjustable center pin, which rides in a T-track on the jig base. This lets me fine-tune the radius of the circle and lock it down precisely before cutting. The process takes a bit more setup and is somewhat cumbersome compared to using a router, but it’s a solid alternative when working with smaller discs or when I want to avoid router setup.
🔗 Related:
How to Make a Circle Jig for a Table Saw
Table Saw Jig Comparison Table
Below is a quick comparison of all 7 table saw jigs covered in this article—highlighting their main purpose, what kind of projects they’re best for, and how often I use them.
| Jig | Primary Use | Best For | Workshop Frequency |
|---|---|---|---|
| Crosscut Sled | Safe and accurate 90° crosscuts | cross cuts, cutting boards, squaring ends | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (Almost every project) |
| Spline Jig | Strengthening and decorating miter joints | Frames, boxes, gift projects | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ |
| Miter Sled (Picture Frame Jig) | Cutting perfect 45° angles | Frames, angled joints | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ |
| Thin Strip Jig | Cutting safe, consistent thin strips | Inlays, trim, small boxes | ⭐⭐⭐ |
| Tapering Jig | Long angled cuts | Furniture legs, straightening edges | ⭐⭐⭐ |
| Tenoning Jig | Cutting mortise and tenon joints | Castle joints, chairs, tables | ⭐⭐ |
| Table Saw Circle Jig | Cutting small circles on a table saw | Small bases, trays, discs | ⭐ |
📌 Note: Frequency rating is based on my personal use in a small workshop setting. Your priorities may vary based on the types of projects you build.
💡 Ready to build your own jigs?
Download the exact plans I use in my workshop—most of the jigs listed above are available with full diagrams, materials, and video links.
➜ See All Jig Plans Here
Final Thoughts
I’ve built dozens of jigs over the years, and these seven have earned a permanent spot in my workshop. Some of them started out rough—honestly, my early crosscut sled wasn’t square, and I remember remaking parts of the spline jig because I misaligned the slot. But that’s the beauty of building jigs yourself: every mistake teaches you something, and every fix makes you a better woodworker.
Many of my projects begin with one of these jigs. They save me time, improve my accuracy, and make the whole process more enjoyable. And most importantly—they’ve helped me build confidently, even in a small workshop with limited tools.
If you’re just getting started, don’t worry about making the perfect jig on your first try. Build something simple. Try it out. Rebuild if needed. Each jig you make will improve the next one.
If you’re not sure where to begin, start with the crosscut sled. That one alone will open up a ton of possibilities.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the first jig I should build for my table saw?
The crosscut sled is the most recommended first jig. It helps you make accurate and safe 90° cuts, and acts as a foundation for several other jigs—like the spline jig and miter sled. It’s also great for beginners.
Can I build table saw jigs with basic tools?
Absolutely. Most of the jigs listed in this post can be built using basic woodworking tools like a circular saw, drill, and clamps. Baltic birch plywood or MDF are common materials you can use even in a small workshop.
Are table saw jigs universal or tool-specific?
Some jigs (like a fence-mounted tenoning jig or circle jig) are more universal and can work with different saws. Others, like a crosscut sled, need to be sized and tuned to your specific table saw for best performance.
How do I make my table saw jigs more versatile?
Using T-tracks, adjustable fences, and modular attachments (like your setup with the spline jig on the crosscut sled) allows you to reuse the same base jig for multiple tasks—saving time, space, and material.
Do I need all these jigs in a small workshop?
Not right away. Start with the essentials—crosscut sled, spline jig, and maybe a tapering jig. As your projects grow, you can build more specialized jigs like the tenoning jig or circle jig when needed.
