When I first started woodworking, I often mixed up miter vs bevel cuts—especially when building picture frames and trim. The difference is actually simple once you see it: a miter changes the angle across the face of the board while the blade stays vertical, and a bevel tilts the blade so the cut runs through the thickness of the wood.
If you’re new to woodworking, this can feel confusing at first. In this guide, I’ll break down the differences clearly with diagrams, show you how to cut each using a miter saw and a table saw, explain compound cuts, and share when I use bevel vs miter in real projects. I’ll also include a few common beginner mistakes so you can avoid the errors I made early on.
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Table of Contents
- What Is a Miter vs. Bevel Cut?
- How to Cut a Miter vs. Bevel Cut
- Miter Cut Using a Table Saw
- Bevel Cut Using a Table Saw
- Miter Cut Using a Miter Saw
- Bevel Cut Using a Miter Saw
- Bevel and Miter Cuts With Other Saw Types
- What is a Compound Cut?
- How Bevel and Miter Cuts Are Used in Crown Molding
- When to Use Bevel and Miter Cuts in Woodworking
- Common Mistakes Beginners Make
- Final Thoughts
- Frequently Asked Questions
Miter vs Bevel – Quick Comparison
Here’s a quick overview of how miter and bevel cuts differ. Use this table to spot the key differences at a glance before diving into detailed examples below.
| Cut Type | How the Blade Moves | Resulting Cut | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Miter | Blade stays vertical; material is angled | Angled cut across the face/width of the board | Picture frames, trim, joining boards at corners |
| Bevel | Blade tilts at an angle through thickness | Angled cut along the edge/depth of the board | Crown molding, edge finishing, decorative profiles |
What Is a Miter vs Bevel Cut?
Miter and bevel cuts both create angled cuts, but they do it in different ways:
Miter cut → The blade stays vertical, and the material is rotated to make the cut across the face or width. Example: a 45° cut for joining two pieces into a picture frame.
Bevel cut → The blade tilts through the thickness of the board, cutting the edge at an angle. Example: softening the edge of a tabletop or creating the angled edge of crown molding.
👉 Think of it this way: miter = angled across the face, bevel = angled through the edge.
Now that you know the difference between a miter and a bevel cut, let’s look at how to actually make them using different tools like a miter saw and a table saw.
How to Cut a Miter vs Bevel Cut
You can make both miter and bevel cuts with several tools. The process depends on whether you pivot the saw table (for a miter) or tilt the blade (for a bevel). Here’s how I approach them in my own shop
1. Using a Table Saw
Miter Cut → Use a miter gauge, a crosscut sled, or a dedicated miter sled. I rely on a sled for repeatable, accurate 45° cuts (perfect for frames and boxes).
Bevel Cut → Tilt the blade to the required angle. Guide narrow stock with the fence or use a sled for larger panels and sheet goods.
See also: DIY Crosscut Sled or Miter Sled Jig — both make miter cuts safer and more precise.
🎥 Here’s a quick example: in this video I build a picture frame jig (table saw miter sled) and use it to make repeatable 45° miter cuts. This jig is one of my favorites for frames, boxes, and any project that needs perfect corners.
2. Using a Miter Saw
Miter Cut → Keep the blade vertical and pivot the saw table to the desired angle. Lock it in, secure your workpiece, and make the cut.
Bevel Cut → Instead of pivoting the table, tilt the blade. Keep the board flat on the table and adjust the bevel angle behind the handle.
👉 Tip: For short bevels, rotate the board against the fence. For longer bevels, tilt the blade — it keeps the workpiece flat and stable.
3. Using Other Saws (Circular Saw, Jigsaw)
Miter Cut → Angle the tool using a speed square or guide rail.
Bevel Cut → Adjust the tilting base (shoe) of the saw to the desired angle.
These portable saws are great for rough cuts or jobs where precision isn’t critical, but I don’t use them for fine joinery.
What Is a Compound Cut?
A compound cut combines both a miter and a bevel in one cut. The saw blade is tilted and rotated at the same time, so the board is angled across the face and through its thickness.
This type of cut is essential for projects where two angled surfaces need to fit together cleanly — for example, crown molding, picture frames, or decorative trim.
To make a compound cut, you’ll typically use a compound miter saw (sometimes called a dual bevel miter saw). These saws let you tilt the blade left or right while also rotating the table to the correct miter angle.
👉 You can make compound cuts on other tools like a table saw or even a band saw with jigs, but a compound miter saw is the simplest and most accurate option.
| Cut Type | Blade / Table Movement | Resulting Cut | Common Uses |
|---|---|---|---|
| Miter | Table pivots, blade stays vertical | Angled cut across the face/width | Picture frames, trim, angled joints |
| Bevel | Blade tilts, table stays square | Angled cut through the edge/thickness | Crown molding edges, table edges, decorative cuts |
| Compound | Blade tilts + table pivots | Angled in two planes at once | Crown molding corners, complex trim, custom frames |
If you’re just getting into these cuts, you might also be wondering about the saws themselves. Here’s a full guide on Single vs Double Bevel Miter Saws and which one makes sense for your workshop.
How Bevel and Miter Cuts Are Used in Crown Molding
Crown molding is one of the best examples of where miter and bevel cuts work together. Since molding sits at an angle between the wall and ceiling, you need a compound cut to make the corners fit cleanly.
On most saws, the standard settings are already marked:
Miter angle: 31.6°
Bevel angle: 33.9°
These two cuts combine so that the pieces meet seamlessly at the corner. For inside and outside corners, you’ll simply reverse the settings (left vs right).
👉 The key is accuracy — even a small error will leave a gap in the joint. That’s why I recommend using stop blocks, test cuts, and jigs whenever possible. A good miter sled or crown molding jig can save a lot of frustration.
When to Use Bevel and Miter Cuts in Woodworking
Both cuts are common in the shop, but I use them for very different reasons.
Bevel Cuts → I reach for a bevel cut when I want to change the edge of a piece. That could mean softening the sharp edge of a tabletop, cutting trim to sit flush against a wall, or preparing a board to mate cleanly with another at an angle. Bevels are also essential for decorative touches like chamfers or angled profiles.
Miter Cuts → I use miters when I need two boards to meet at a corner without exposing end grain. Classic examples are picture frames, boxes, and trim around doors or windows. Miters are also common in general carpentry (rafters, siding) where angled joints are needed.
👉 The main difference: bevels shape the edge, miters join the corners. Once I understood that, it was much easier to decide which cut to make.
Common Mistakes Beginners Make
When I was starting out, I often mixed up miters and bevels. Here are some of the most common mistakes I see beginners make (and a few I made myself):
Confusing the two cuts → Tilting the blade when they meant to pivot the table, or vice versa. Remember: miter = across the face, bevel = through the edge.
Not supporting the workpiece → Long boards or panels can shift mid-cut. Use clamps, sleds, or stop blocks for accuracy.
Skipping test cuts → Even a half-degree off will show in a joint. A quick test cut on scrap saves frustration later.
Forgetting about compound cuts → Crown molding and angled trim often need both bevel and miter at the same time. Beginners sometimes try to “force fit” with only one cut.
Using the wrong tool for the job → A jigsaw or circular saw is fine for quick bevels or miters, but if precision matters, a sled or miter saw will give far better results.
👉 Avoiding these mistakes makes it much easier to get tight joints, clean edges, and pro-looking results — even on beginner projects like picture frames or cutting boards.
Final Thoughts
Miter and bevel cuts can seem a little confusing at the beginning, but once you start using them in real projects, the difference clicks quickly. For me, building a picture frame jig for my table saw was when it all came together — miters for joining corners, bevels for shaping edges.
These two cuts are the foundation for so much woodworking — from picture frames and boxes to cutting boards, trim, and crown molding. With a little practice, a few test cuts, and the right jigs, you’ll be making accurate, pro-looking cuts in no time.
👉 If you found this guide helpful, check out my DIY jig plans for making cleaner, more accurate cuts in your own workshop.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is a 45° cut a miter or a bevel?
It depends on the orientation of the cut. A 45° cut across the face of a board is a miter. A 45° cut through the edge (changing the profile) is a bevel.
Do I need a special saw for bevel cuts?
No. Most miter saws, table saws, and even circular saws can tilt their blades to cut bevels. A dedicated compound miter saw simply makes it easier when you need both bevel and miter at the same time.
What’s the easiest way to get accurate miters?
Use a sled or a stop block. Even half a degree off will show in a frame or box. I use a table saw miter sled for repeatable 45° cuts.
When would I use a compound cut instead of just a bevel or miter?
Compound cuts are needed when two angled cuts have to meet, such as in crown molding or decorative trim. They combine a bevel and a miter at the same time.
Can I cut miters and bevels with a jigsaw?
Yes, but don’t expect perfect accuracy. A jigsaw is handy for rough cuts, but for precise joints, a table saw or miter saw with a jig is a better choice.
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