Dowel joinery is one of my favorite ways to make strong, clean woodworking joints. It’s simple, reliable, and doesn’t require expensive tools.
I didn’t have a self-centering dowel jig in my workshop, so I decided to build one — using scrap wood, a couple of brackets, and some bolts. The result is a jig that’s quick to make, adjustable for different stock thicknesses, and spot-on accurate.
This self-centering jig is perfect for edge-to-edge joints and works well for miter joints too. It’s compact, easy to use, and a great addition to any small workshop. The only limitation? It’s not ideal for face joints — which is exactly why I later built an adjustable dowel jig that handles all joint types with even more precision.
You’ll find the full step-by-step instructions below, plus a free downloadable plan so you can make one for your own workshop in no time.
RELATED:
How to Make an Adjustable DIY Dowel Jig – A versatile version that works for edge, miter, and face joints, with easier setup and even greater accuracy.
Self-Centering Dowel Jig Video
Want to see exactly how this jig comes together?
Watch the step-by-step build in the video below — it covers everything from cutting the pieces to making precise adjustments for perfect alignment.
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Table of Contents
- Self-Centering Dowel Jig Video
- Self-centering doweling jig plans
- Materials and Tools
- Common Questions When Using a Dowel Jig
- How To Make a Self-Centering Dowel Jig
- Step 1: Build the Parallel Guides
- Step 2: Attach the Brackets to the Parallel Guides
- Step 3: Insert Spacers
- Step 4: Assemble and Adjust the Dowel Jig
- How to use a Self-Centering Dowel Jig
- Edge Joints
- L-Joints
- Miter Joints
- Comparison Table
- Wrap Up
- Jigs used for the project
*Safety is your responsibility. Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first!
Self-Centering Doweling Jig Plans
You can download the free Self-Centering Dowel Jig plans to follow along with this build.
The PDF includes measurements, a materials list, and step-by-step build instructions so you can have your jig ready in no time.
Materials and Tools
DIY Self-Centering Doweling Jig
- 2× Spruce wood (planed, square preferred) – 150 × 28 × 12 mm
- 1× Spruce wood (planed, square preferred) – 150 × 28 × 18 mm
- 2× Brackets – 140 × 15 × 20 mm, each with 3 pre-drilled holes
- 4× Wood screws – 3 × 20 mm
- 2× Wood screws – 3 × 12 mm
Screws and other – https://amzn.to/41PodgQ
Check all the Tools I Use
Tools:
- Jigsaw – https://amzn.to/3S85cDr
- Hand Drill – https://amzn.to/3HqLEnH
- One Hand Clamps – https://amzn.to/48jGxkZ
- Spring Clamps – https://amzn.to/41Nuh9D
- F-Clamps – https://amzn.to/48ArzY1
- Tape Measure – https://amzn.to/3TN0SKM
- Center Hole Punch – https://amzn.to/48Fq7mv
- Hand Saw – https://amzn.to/48if4Qz
Machinist Square / Speed Square
Other
- ø6mm Drill Bit (better for metal) –
- Wood Glue – https://amzn.to/48ltKhJ
- Epoxy – https://amzn.to/3tJ5R4L
- Sandpaper Sheets – https://amzn.to/41OMx2p
- Wood Screws – https://amzn.to/41PodgQ
- Round hollow aluminum spacers
– diameter inner ø6mm, outer ø8mm – 18 mm
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Common Questions When Using a Dowel Jig
How to adjust a self-centering dowel jig?
The principle is simple: the jig centers itself around the workpiece using two parallel guide rails. The main body has metal bushings set exactly in the center, ensuring holes are drilled perfectly in the middle and vertically straight.
- Mark the position of the dowels and the centerline on your workpiece.
- Place the jig around the workpiece, close the guides, and align it with the centerline.
- Drill the holes using a drill bit stop collar to ensure consistent depth.
How deep should a dowel hole be?
The optimal depth matches the dowel length, with an additional 2 mm gap to catch excess glue or water and avoid blowout. This gap also helps account for small variations in dowel length. However, too much gap can slightly reduce joint strength, so balance is key.
Are dowels supposed to be loose?
Dowels should fit snugly once glue is applied, as they will expand slightly. Fit can vary due to manufacturing tolerances (up to ±0.1 mm) and the material being drilled. For example, a 6 mm hole in plywood may differ slightly from one in hardwood. Always test-fit before committing to the final piece.
Table – Dowel Joinery Quick Reference
| General Dowel Joinery Guidelines | Recommendation | Why It Matters |
|---|---|---|
| Dowel hole depth | Dowel length – 2 mm | Allows space for glue & debris; avoids blowout |
| Dowel fit | Snug, slight resistance | Ensures joint tightens as glue swells the dowel |
| Test fitting | Always test-fit before gluing | Accounts for material differences & dowel tolerances |
| Glue application | Apply evenly to both hole & dowel | Maximizes bond and prevents dry spots |
Creating a doweling jig is quite simple. But if you’re looking for a ready-made option from a shop, I’d suggest the following one.
Features an extra-large opening for clamping onto various-sized pieces of wood.
Let's Start
The total dimensions of the dowel jig are 150 × 140 mm. After subtracting the side guides, there’s room for up to an 110 mm wide workpiece inside the jig.
This size works well for most small to medium woodworking projects. It’s compact enough to store easily, yet large enough to handle common joints like edge, L, and miter connections.
How To Make a Self-Centering Dowel Jig
Step 1: Build the Parallel Guides
Start by measuring and cutting all the wood pieces you’ll need for the jig (see dimensions above). A Jigsaw Crosscut Jig is perfect for getting accurate, clean crosscuts on the strips.
Once your pieces are cut, mark the drill spots on the side guides. Take your time here — accuracy at this stage directly impacts the overall precision of your doweling jig.
Although there’s a bit of room for adjustment later, getting the holes right from the start will save you a lot of fine-tuning.
💡 Tip: Use a marking gauge to find the exact center, then a center punch to make a small indentation. This will help keep your drill bit from wandering.
Step 2: Attach the Brackets to the Parallel Guides
Before attaching the brackets, check if they already have a center hole. If not, you’ll need to make one. In my case, I drilled the hole myself.
- Mark the center of the bracket using a ruler or marking gauge.
- Use a center punch to make an indentation where the hole will be drilled.
- Drill the hole and then use a countersink bit so the screw head will sit perfectly flush.
Once ready, attach the brackets to the side guides with screws — but don’t fully tighten them yet. Keeping them slightly loose allows the guides to move and self-center when clamped onto a workpiece.
💡 Note: The ideal fit is when the bracket can move smoothly without being wobbly, and the screw head is completely recessed.
Finally, check that the guides are perfectly parallel when the jig is closed. Accuracy here is critical — if they’re only slightly off, you can sand the inner faces of the guides to correct alignment, but if they’re way off, there’s no real fix and you’ll need to make new ones. Taking the time to be precise at this stage will pay off later.
Step 3: Insert Spacers
Mark the positions for the spacers and drill two holes. On this self-centering dowel jig, the holes are spaced 4 cm apart. Drill exactly along the centerline of the piece for best accuracy.
For the most accurate results, I recommend using a drill press — even better if you have a DIY Drill Press Stand in your workshop. It keeps the drill steady and perfectly vertical for clean, precise holes.
If you don’t have a drill press, no worries — you can still get great results by using a simple vertical drilling jig. Here’s my guide on How to Drill a Straight Hole Without a Drill Press to help you with that.
I used an ø8mm drill bit to drill the holes. Once the aluminum spacers are inserted, they leave a ø6mm opening — perfect for 6mm dowels.
While making the jig, I also cut a small notch in the center of the middle piece, exactly between the two holes. This acts as a “sight hole” to help align the jig with the mark on your workpiece. You don’t need power tools for this — I made mine with just a hand saw.
Cut the aluminum spacers to 18 mm length and round the edges slightly so they fit easily into the drilled holes. Apply a small amount of wood glue or epoxy and press them in place.
⚠ Tip: Avoid getting glue inside the spacers. If it happens, clean them immediately with a cloth or, once dry, sand the inside lightly.
Note: I use aluminum spacers, but you could also use steel if you prefer. I recommend drilling with metal drill bits rather than wood bits — they spin more smoothly inside the spacers and help keep the jig steady and accurate.
Step 4: Assemble and Adjust the Dowel Jig
Attach the center piece to the parallel guides with screws.
Leave the screws slightly loose at first, then close the jig so all parts are aligned. Skew the jig gently if needed, making sure the center piece and side guides are perfectly parallel.
Once everything is lined up, tighten the screws fully.
This step is crucial — if the guides aren’t perfectly parallel, the dowel holes won’t align correctly. Minor misalignment can be fixed by lightly sanding the inner faces of the guides, but if they’re way off, there’s no real fix — you’ll need to make new pieces. Precision here pays off.
When done correctly, all three wooden pieces should move smoothly in parallel when you open and close the jig.
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How to Use a Self-Centering Dowel Jig
A self-centering doweling jig is a versatile tool that can handle different joint types — including edge joints, L-joints, and miter joints. Here’s a breakdown of each and how to get the best results.
Edge Joints
Perfect for connecting two boards side-by-side to create a flush surface.
Steps:
- Mark the center point of your dowel locations on the wood.
- Align the jig’s center notch with your marks.
- Clamp the jig securely to your workbench or directly onto the workpiece for stability.
- Set your drill bit depth with a stop collar to avoid over-drilling.
- Drill the holes, glue dowels into one board, and check the fit before final glue-up.
L-Joints
Ideal for assembling wood pieces in an “L” shape — great for legs, frames, or box corners.
Steps:
- Mark the center point for the dowels on each piece.
- Place the jig on the edge of the workpiece and align it with your marks.
- Clamp and secure the jig.
- Drill to the set depth, glue dowels into one piece, and join the two boards.
Miter Joints
Adds both strength and clean aesthetics to angled corner joints.
Steps:
- Mark your dowel positions along the mitered edges.
- Align the jig carefully — accuracy is critical here to avoid visible misalignment.
- Clamp and drill to the correct depth.
- Glue dowels into one piece, then join and clamp both pieces together until dry.
💡 Pro Tip:
I prefer using drill bits for metal instead of wood bits with this jig. They run smoother inside the aluminum spacers and help maintain precision. You can also lightly sand the inside of the spacers for an even better fit.
Comparison table -Edge joints, L-joints, and Miter joints
| Joint Type | Best For | Advantages | Tips for Best Results |
|---|---|---|---|
| Edge Joint | Joining two boards side-by-side for tabletops, panels, or shelves | Creates a strong, flush connection across the surface | Mark centers precisely and clamp securely before drilling |
| L-Joint | Connecting boards at a right angle (legs, frames, box corners) | Strong and simple corner assembly | Ensure alignment before drilling; use a square to check angles |
| Miter Joint | Decorative angled corners (picture frames, boxes) | Adds both strength and a clean, professional look | Alignment is critical — clamp well and drill slowly to avoid tear-out |
Wrap-Up
Building a DIY self-centering dowel jig is a quick, budget-friendly way to add precision joinery to your workshop. With just a few wood scraps, brackets, and spacers, you can make accurate edge joints, L-joints, and even miter joints—perfect for frames, tabletops, and box projects.
While this jig covers most common joinery needs, it does have its limitations. For example, it’s not designed for face joints. That’s one of the main reasons I later built my Adjustable DIY Dowel Jig. The adjustable version allows you to create all joint types, is quicker to set up, and offers even greater accuracy—worth checking out if you want to take your doweling to the next level.
If you follow the steps above and take your time with precision drilling, this jig will serve you well for years. I’ve used mine on countless projects and it’s been a game-changer for quick, reliable joinery without spending money on a store-bought jig.
So, what do you think—ready to build your own self-centering dowel jig? Let’s do it!
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