Cutting Boards – AllFlavor Workshop

How to Maintain and Care for Your Cutting Board

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 14 May 2026 14:00:00 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

How to Maintain and Care for Your Cutting Board

Knowing how to maintain and care for your cutting board makes a big difference if you want it to stay in good shape for years. A wooden cutting board goes through a lot in normal kitchen use — moisture, knife marks, food contact, washing, drying, and constant changes in temperature and humidity. If you take care of it regularly, it will keep looking better, feel better in use, and last much longer.

The good thing is that cutting board maintenance does not need to be complicated. Most of it comes down to a simple routine: clean it properly, let it dry well, and give it oil or wax when the wood starts to look dry. Small, regular care is usually much easier than waiting until the board looks tired, rough, or neglected.

That is exactly how I see it in the workshop too. A nice cutting board can look premium when it is newly finished, but what really matters is how it holds up after weeks and months of actual kitchen use. Regular maintenance is what keeps that board looking good and working well.

And if your board is already much more worn out, dry, or damaged, have a look at my How to Refinish a Cutting Board (Make It Look Brand New Again) guide, where I go much deeper into bringing a board back.

Why Cutting Board Maintenance Matters
What Happens If You Do Not Maintain a Wooden Cutting Board
Daily Cutting Board Care After Normal Use
How to Oil and Wax a Cutting Board
My Preferred Cutting Board Care Routine
Signs Your Board Needs More Than Regular Maintenance
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Wrap-Up
FAQ

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How to Maintain and Care for Your Cutting Board — simple cleaning, oiling, and waxing routine for regular kitchen use.

Why Cutting Board Maintenance Matters

A wooden cutting board is not something you finish once and forget about. It is a piece of wood that gets used, washed, dried, and exposed to moisture again and again. Because of that, regular maintenance is part of owning a wooden cutting board, especially if you want it to keep looking good and stay comfortable to use.

When a board is cared for properly, the wood stays in better condition, the surface feels smoother, and the board is less likely to dry out too much over time. It also helps the board keep that richer, finished look instead of turning dull, rough, or tired.

A few simple reasons why cutting board maintenance matters:

It helps protect the wood from drying out too much
It keeps the surface looking better for longer
It helps the board feel smoother and more pleasant to use
It can reduce the chance of deeper wear showing up too quickly
It is much easier to maintain a board regularly than to fully restore it later

For me, this is one of those things that is easy to underestimate at first. But once you start using cutting boards regularly, you notice pretty quickly that a board that gets some basic care simply ages better.

NOTE: Small, regular maintenance usually gives better long-term results than occasional heavy repair.

What Happens If You Do Not Maintain a Wooden Cutting Board

If a wooden cutting board does not get regular care, it usually starts to look and feel worse little by little. The surface can become dull, the wood may look dry, and the board can lose that richer finished look it had when it was new.

It does not mean the board is ruined right away, but over time it can become rougher, more worn-looking, and less pleasant to use. And the longer it goes without care, the more likely it is that you will eventually need more than just a simple oiling or waxing.

A few common things that can happen when a board is neglected:

The wood starts to look dry and faded
The surface can feel rougher than before
Knife marks and wear become more visible
The board loses some of its smooth, finished feel

That is exactly why I think regular care is worth it. It is much easier to maintain a board as you go than to restore it later.

Daily Cutting Board Care After Normal Use

Most of the time, good cutting board care is not about doing something complicated. It is just about building a simple habit after normal kitchen use.

After using the board, I would clean it fairly soon instead of letting moisture or food residue sit on it for too long. Then I would let it dry properly before putting it away or before applying any oil or wax later. That simple routine already does a lot.

What I like about this part is that it does not take much effort, but it makes a real difference over time. When a board is cleaned properly and allowed to dry well, it just tends to stay nicer. It feels better in use, looks better on the counter, and usually needs less heavy repair later.

This is also where I think many people go wrong. They focus only on oiling once in a while, but the everyday part matters too.

How to Oil and Wax a Cutting Board

Oiling and waxing are the two main steps that help keep a wooden cutting board in good shape over time. They work together, but they do not do exactly the same thing.

Oil helps nourish the wood and keeps it from looking too dry. It soaks into the surface and helps bring back that richer, healthier look.
Wax is more of a protective top layer. It helps the surface feel smoother and adds another level of protection after the oil has already done its job.

For regular care, I think it helps to keep this simple. If the board starts looking dry, faded, or less lively, that is usually a good moment to apply oil. Once the oil has had time to soak in and the surface is no longer overly absorbent, wax can help finish it off and keep the board feeling better in use.

You do not need to overcomplicate this part. The important thing is to pay attention to how the board looks and feels.

A board that looks dry is usually asking for oil.
A board that already feels good but could use extra protection is a good candidate for wax.

Step	What it does	When to use it	Main benefit
Oil	Soaks into the wood and helps nourish it	When the board looks dry, faded, or thirsty	Brings back a richer look and helps keep the wood in better condition
Wax	Sits more on the surface as a protective layer	After oiling or when the board could use extra surface protection	Helps the board feel smoother and adds a bit more protection
Oil + Wax	Combines nourishment with surface protection	As part of a fuller maintenance routine	Keeps the board looking better and feeling better for longer

For me, this is the part of cutting board maintenance that makes the biggest visual difference. A board can look tired one moment, and after the right oil and wax treatment, it already feels much more alive again.

My Preferred Cutting Board Care Routine

I like to keep things very simple. I don’t want cutting board care to become some big project every time, so I prefer having the products I use close by and making them part of a normal routine. That way, it is much easier to actually do it.

My preferred setup is using Clark’s soap, oil, and wax. I like the whole combo because it keeps the process straightforward: clean the board, let it dry, apply oil when it needs it, and finish with wax when I want that extra protection and smoother feel. (I personally like the citrus version the most, but the main point is not really the scent — it is that the routine is easy enough to repeat.)

That is what I think matters most here. If the products are easy to reach and the process feels simple, you are far more likely to keep up with it. In practice, that can be as easy as keeping the soap, oil, and wax somewhere near the kitchen so you can use them without having to think much about it.

If you want a deeper look at the different product types and what they do, my Best Wood Finishes for Cutting Boards (Food-Safe Oils, Wax, and Care Tips) article goes into that in much more detail.

NOTE: The easier you make the routine, the more likely you are to actually maintain the board well over time.

Signs Your Board Needs More Than Regular Maintenance

Regular care can do a lot, but at some point a board may need more than just cleaning, oil, or wax. If the surface is more heavily worn or damaged, that is usually the point where simple maintenance is no longer enough and a deeper refresh makes more sense.

A few signs to look for:

The board feels rough even after cleaning and oiling
There are many deeper knife marks across the surface
The wood looks uneven, tired, or badly worn
Small cracks, pits, or damaged areas start showing up
Oil and wax improve the look only temporarily

That is usually the stage where I would move beyond normal maintenance and go into refinishing instead. If your board is already at that point, my How to Refinish a Cutting Board (Make It Look Brand New Again) article is the better next step.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

There are still a few mistakes that can make a good board wear out faster or just look worse than it should. In many cases, the problem is not that people do nothing — it is that they do one thing well, but skip the rest of the routine.

For me, the biggest difference comes from being consistent. A board usually does better with simple regular care than with random heavy treatment once in a long while.

Mistake	What can happen	Better approach
Only oiling occasionally but ignoring daily care	The board still ends up looking tired or worn	Combine routine cleaning, drying, oiling, and waxing when needed
Letting the board stay wet too long	The wood can look worse and age faster over time	Clean it, then let it dry properly after use
Waiting until the board looks very dry	Maintenance becomes less effective and the board looks more neglected	Apply oil before the board gets too far gone
Thinking wax replaces oil	The board may get surface protection, but the wood still looks thirsty underneath	Use oil for nourishment and wax as the finishing protective step
Using maintenance when the board really needs refinishing	The result improves only a little or only for a short time	Recognize when the board needs a deeper refresh instead

In short, do not overcomplicate it, but do not ignore it either. A simple routine followed regularly is usually what keeps a cutting board looking and feeling good the longest.

Wrap-Up

For me, the most important thing about cutting board care is keeping it simple enough that you actually do it. That is why I like having the soap, oil, and wax close to the kitchen instead of stored somewhere far away in the workshop. When everything is easy to reach, it is much easier to build the habit.

If I had to highlight the key message, it would be this: clean your board after every use, let it dry well, and take care of it before it starts looking tired. That small routine makes a real difference over time. The board stays in better shape, looks healthier, and you naturally get used to maintaining it.

And if your board is already past the point of simple maintenance and needs a deeper refresh, check out my How to Refinish a Cutting Board (Make It Look Brand New Again) guide.

FAQ

1. How often should I oil a wooden cutting board?

That depends on how often you use it, but a good rule is to oil it whenever the wood starts to look dry or faded. A board that is used often in the kitchen may need oil more regularly than one that is used only occasionally.

2. Do I need wax if I already use cutting board oil?

Oil and wax do different jobs. Oil helps nourish the wood, while wax adds a smoother and more protective layer on the surface. You can use oil alone, but wax is a useful extra step if you want more protection and a nicer finished feel.

3. What is the best daily care for a wooden cutting board?

The best daily care is simple: clean the board after use and let it dry properly. That basic routine helps keep the board in better condition and makes it easier to maintain over time.

4. What happens if I do not maintain my cutting board?

If a wooden cutting board does not get regular care, it can start to look dry, dull, rough, and more worn over time. In many cases, simple maintenance is enough to prevent that from happening too quickly.

5. When does a cutting board need refinishing instead of regular maintenance?

If the surface stays rough even after cleaning and oiling, or if the board has deeper knife marks, cracks, pits, or more visible wear, it may need refinishing rather than simple maintenance.

This post How to Maintain and Care for Your Cutting Board first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

Cutting Board Sizes & Thicknesses (Best Dimensions and Layout Tips)

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 07 May 2026 14:00:00 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

Cutting Board Sizes & Thicknesses (Best Dimensions and Layout Tips)

Cutting board sizes and thicknesses can make a much bigger difference than they may seem at first. When you are planning a new cutting board, the dimensions affect not only how the board looks, but also how comfortable it is to use, how stable it feels on the counter, how heavy it is to move around, and even how practical it is to build in the workshop.

Over time, I have found that the “best” cutting board size is not really just about following one standard dimension. It depends on what the board is for, how much working space you want, how thick and solid you want it to feel, and what tools or jigs you are using during the build.

In this guide, I’ll go through the most useful cutting board size and thickness considerations, look at what works well for different types of boards, and share the dimensions I personally like using for a solid everyday kitchen board.

And if you are also deciding what kind of cutting board you want to build, have a look at my Types of Cutting Boards (And How to Make Them) article.

Why Cutting Board Size and Thickness Matter
What Is a Good Size for an Everyday Cutting Board?
Common Cutting Board Thicknesses and What They Feel Like
How Board Purpose Changes the Best Dimensions
My Preferred Cutting Board Size (And Why I Like It)
Layout Tips Before You Build
How Tool Limits Can Affect Cutting Board Dimensions
Common Mistakes When Choosing Cutting Board Dimensions
Wrap-Up
FAQ

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Cutting Board Sizes & Thicknesses — practical dimensions and layout tips for a better kitchen board build.

Why Cutting Board Size and Thickness Matter

The size and thickness of a cutting board affect much more than just the final look. They change how the board feels in everyday use, how stable it is on the counter, how much workspace you have, and how solid or premium the board feels in your hands.

A board that is too small can feel limiting very quickly, especially if you actually use it for regular kitchen prep and not just for serving. On the other hand, a board that is too large or too heavy can become awkward to move, clean, or store. Thickness works in a similar way. A thinner board may be lighter and easier to handle, while a thicker board usually feels more solid, more durable, and a bit more premium.

This also matters from the builder’s side. The dimensions you choose affect how much material you need, how you lay out the glue-up, and whether the finished board fits comfortably through your machines or still works with something like a Router Flattening Jig. So even though the board size may sound like a small decision at the start, it shapes a lot of the project later on.

NOTE: Good cutting board dimensions are not just about what looks nice. They should also match how the board will be used, how it will be built, and how practical it will be in a real kitchen.

What Is a Good Size for an Everyday Cutting Board?

For an everyday kitchen cutting board, I think the best size is one that gives you enough space to actually work, but still feels manageable to move and clean. If the board is too small, it quickly becomes frustrating once you start cutting larger vegetables, meat, or several ingredients at once. If it is too large, it can become heavy and awkward, especially in a normal kitchen.

That is why I usually see the sweet spot somewhere in the medium-to-large range. You want a board that gives you real working space and feels stable on the counter, but still fits the kitchen well. For many people, that means choosing a size that is large enough for daily prep, not just a small decorative board.

This is also one of the reasons I personally prefer larger boards over smaller ones. Smaller boards can definitely look nice, and they work well for serving or quick light tasks, but for a proper kitchen board I usually want more room to work and a stronger overall feel.

TIP: If you are building one main cutting board for the kitchen, it usually makes sense to lean a little bigger rather than too small.

Common Cutting Board Thicknesses and What They Feel Like

Thickness changes the feel of a cutting board more than many people expect. Even if two boards have a similar length and width, the thicker one will usually feel more solid, more stable, and a bit more premium.

Here is a simple way to think about it:

Around 2 cm – 3/4″
Lighter and easier to handle, but usually feels more like a lighter-duty board or a simpler serving-style piece.
Around 2.5 to 3 cm – 1″ to 1 1/4″
A very practical middle ground. Thick enough to feel solid, but still not too heavy for everyday use.
Around 3.5 cm – 1 3/8″ and above
This is where the board starts to feel much more substantial and premium. It has more presence on the counter, handles pressure better, and usually feels like a more serious kitchen board.

That is one of the reasons I personally like thicker boards. They feel sturdier, more stable, and better suited for everyday kitchen work. Of course, that also adds weight, so there is always a balance between comfort, durability, and the overall feel you want.

Thicker is not automatically better for every build. It depends on whether you want a lighter board, a serving board, or a heavier all-purpose kitchen board.

How Board Purpose Changes the Best Dimensions

The best cutting board dimensions depend a lot on what the board is actually meant to do. A board for everyday kitchen prep usually benefits from more space and a sturdier thickness, while a serving board or a smaller decorative build can work well with lighter and slimmer dimensions.

That is why I would not look for one “perfect” cutting board size that fits every situation. It makes more sense to think about the purpose first, and then choose dimensions that support that use.

For example, if you want a board mainly for serving, presentation, or smaller kitchen tasks, you can usually go smaller and thinner. But if the board is meant to be your main kitchen work surface, it helps a lot to have enough room for ingredients, a stable feel on the counter, and enough thickness to handle regular use comfortably.

Board purpose	Recommended size direction	Recommended thickness direction	Why it works
Small serving board	Smaller and easier to handle	Thinner to medium	Better for presentation, lighter handling, and quicker builds
Everyday kitchen cutting board	Medium to large	Medium to thick	Gives enough workspace and feels more stable during regular prep
Heavy-duty prep board	Larger working area	Thicker	Feels sturdier, more premium, and better suited for repeated kitchen use
Decorative or gift board	Depends more on design	Thin to medium	Usually prioritizes appearance, style, and easy handling over heavy-duty use

So before choosing the final dimensions, I think it helps to ask one simple question: Will this board be mainly decorative, mainly practical, or both? Once that is clear, the right size and thickness are usually much easier to choose.

My Preferred Cutting Board Size (And Why I Like It)

When I make a cutting board for real kitchen use, I usually like to stay around 52 × 30 × 3.5 cm (about 20 1/2″ × 11 3/4″ × 1 3/8″). Over time, that has become one of my favorite setups because it gives me a really good balance between usable workspace, sturdiness, and overall feel.

For me, that size is large enough to be practical on the kitchen counter and comfortable for everyday prep, but still manageable to move around. I do not really enjoy boards that feel too small once you start cutting for real. A proper kitchen cutting board should give you enough space to work without feeling cramped right away.

I also like the 3.5 cm (about 1 3/8″) thickness because it makes the board feel solid and more premium. It has enough mass to feel stable, it handles pressure well, and it does not feel like a light decorative board. That is the kind of feel I personally want from a kitchen board.

From the workshop side, those dimensions also make sense for how I build. They fit well with the way I prep stock, and they still work with my machines and jigs. If I go a little wider, I already know I may need to finish the board with my Router Flattening Jig, so that is part of the decision too.

So while I would not say this is the one perfect size for everyone, it is definitely the range I come back to when I want a board that feels practical, sturdy, and worth using every day.

TIP: If you want one main board for the kitchen, I think it makes more sense to build something that feels properly usable and solid, rather than going too small just to save a bit of material.

Layout Tips Before You Build

Before gluing anything up, I think it helps to spend a bit of time on the layout. This is where you can still make easy changes, save material, and avoid ending up with a board that feels off once it is finished.

A few practical things I would think about before building:

Leave enough working space
If the board is meant for real kitchen use, make sure the final layout gives you enough surface area to actually prep food comfortably.
Think about thickness from the start
The final board will usually end up a bit thinner after flattening and sanding, so it helps to plan for that early.
Plan your glue-up around usable strip widths
It is easier to build a clean board when the layout matches the stock you already have, instead of forcing exact dimensions too early.
Check how the finished size fits your tools
This matters more than it may seem. If the board ends up too wide for your planer, you already want to know that before the glue-up and have a plan, whether that means adjusting the size or using a Flattening Jig.
Think about the final use, not just the build
A board may look good on the bench, but still feel too small, too wide, or too heavy once it is actually in the kitchen.

For me, this part is not just about appearance. A good layout makes the whole project easier to build and helps the final board feel more practical once it is done.

How Tool Limits Can Affect Cutting Board Dimensions

This is something that matters a lot when you actually build cutting boards, but it does not get mentioned often enough. The final board size is not only about what looks good or what would be nice to have in the kitchen — it is also shaped by the limits of your tools.

For example, the width of your planer can directly affect how wide you want the board to be before glue-up or before final flattening. If the finished board is too wide for the planer, that does not automatically mean it is a problem, but you need to know it in advance and have another method ready. In my case, that usually means finishing the board with Flattening Jig.
The same goes for your table saw setup, sleds, clamps, or even the amount of support you have during glue-up. A cutting board may look perfectly reasonable on paper, but if it becomes awkward to flatten, trim, or handle safely in the workshop, that is worth thinking about before you commit to the final size.

That is one reason I like practical dimensions that work not only in the kitchen, but also in the shop. A good cutting board size should feel right for the use, but it should also be realistic for the way you actually build.

TIP: Before locking the final dimensions, think through the whole process — glue-up, flattening, trimming, sanding, and handling — not just the finished look.

Common Mistakes When Choosing Cutting Board Dimensions

Choosing the dimensions sounds simple at first, but this is one of the places where small decisions can affect the whole build. These are some of the most common mistakes I would watch out for:

Making the board too small for real kitchen use
A small board may look fine at first, but once you start using it, it can feel limiting very quickly.
Choosing thickness only by appearance
A board can look great on paper, but if it is too thin, it may not feel as stable or solid as you want in everyday use.
Ignoring how heavy the board will become
Thicker and larger boards feel more premium, but they also get heavier. That can be a good thing, but only up to the point where the board still feels practical.
Not thinking about the final use early enough
A serving board, a decorative board, and a main kitchen cutting board do not all need the same dimensions.
Forgetting about tool limits
It is easy to design a board around the ideal finished size and forget whether it still fits through the planer or works with your flattening setup.
Not leaving room for flattening and sanding
The final dimensions usually shrink a bit during the build, so it helps to plan for that from the start.

Mistake	What happens	Better approach
Board is too small	Feels cramped during real kitchen prep	Choose dimensions that give enough working space for everyday use
Board is too thin	Can feel lighter or less substantial than expected	Match the thickness to the type of board and the feel you want
Board is too large or heavy	Harder to move, clean, or store	Balance premium feel with practical handling
Final size ignores tool limits	Flattening and machining become more difficult later	Think through planer width, jig capacity, and workshop setup before glue-up
No allowance for final cleanup	Finished board ends up smaller than planned	Leave room for flattening, trimming, and sanding from the start

Wrap-Up

Over time, I have found that choosing the right cutting board dimensions is not only about looks. It affects how the board feels in your hands, how comfortable it is to use on the counter, how stable it stays during prep, and even how practical the whole build is in the workshop.

That is one of the reasons I keep coming back to slightly larger, thicker boards. I like a board that gives me enough room to work, feels solid, and has that more premium presence in the kitchen. And from what I have seen, that is also very close to what a lot of people want when they are looking for a serious everyday cutting board — not something tiny or overly decorative, but something they will actually enjoy using.

Of course, there is no single size that fits every build. But if the board matches its purpose, feels practical in the kitchen, and works with the way you build, you are usually on the right track. And if you want to explore more jigs, techniques, and ideas around cutting board builds, take a look at my Best Jigs to Make Cutting Boards guide.

FAQ

1. What is a good size for an everyday cutting board?

A good everyday cutting board is usually large enough to give you comfortable working space, but still manageable to move and clean. For many builds, a medium-to-large board works best, especially if you want to use it regularly for real kitchen prep rather than only for serving.

2. How thick should a cutting board be?

That depends on the type of board you want. Thinner boards are lighter and easier to handle, while thicker boards usually feel more solid, stable, and premium. For a serious everyday kitchen board, a medium to thicker build often makes the most sense.

3. Are thicker cutting boards better?

Not always, but they often feel sturdier and more substantial. A thicker board can handle pressure well and stay more stable on the counter, but it also becomes heavier. The best choice depends on whether you want a lighter board, a serving board, or a heavier all-purpose kitchen board.

4. What size cutting board should I make?

Start with the board’s purpose. If it is mainly for serving, you can usually go smaller and lighter. If it is meant for daily kitchen prep, it helps to choose dimensions that give you enough room to work and enough thickness to feel solid in use.

5. Do tool limits matter when choosing cutting board dimensions?

Yes, definitely. The final board size should not only suit the kitchen, but also your workshop setup. Planer width, flattening method, glue-up handling, and sanding all affect how practical certain cutting board dimensions will be during the build.

This post Cutting Board Sizes & Thicknesses (Best Dimensions and Layout Tips) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

How to Prep Wood for Cutting Boards

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 30 Apr 2026 14:00:00 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

How to Prep Wood for Cutting Boards

When people talk about making cutting boards, they usually focus on the glue-up, the pattern, or the final look. But before any of that happens, there is one step that makes a huge difference — prepping the wood properly.

In my workshop, I usually do not start with perfectly prepared stock that is ready to glue up right away. More often, I start with rough boards, slabs, or pieces that still need a bit of work before they can become part of a cutting board. That means checking the wood, cutting away bad sections, flattening it, straightening an edge, and getting everything into a shape that is actually usable for the build.

That is what this guide is about. I’ll walk through how I prep wood for cutting boards before the actual glue-up starts, what techniques I use, and where simple jigs can make the whole process easier and more reliable.

And if you want to see the jigs that help most with cutting board work, take a look at my Best Jigs to Make Cutting Boards article.

What Prepping Wood for Cutting Boards Actually Means
Start by Checking the Board
Remove What Should Not Stay
Flatten the First Face
Straighten an Edge
Plane to Consistent Thickness
Rip the Stock and Get It Ready for Glue-Up
Planer vs. Router Flattening Jig: When to Use Which
Common Mistakes When Prepping Wood for Cutting Boards
Wrap-Up
FAQ

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How to Prep Wood for Cutting Boards — from rough stock to clean, glue-up-ready pieces.

What Prepping Wood for Cutting Boards Actually Means

Before getting into the process, it helps to define what I mean by prepping wood for cutting boards. I am not talking about cutting a log into slabs or drying lumber from scratch. I start later — when I already have rough boards, slabs, or leftover stock that could work for a cutting board, but is not ready to use yet.

At that point, the goal is simple: turn that rough stock into wood that is flat, straight, clean, and ready for glue-up. That can mean trimming cracked ends, removing bark, flattening a warped face, straightening one edge, planing to thickness, or ripping the wood into usable strips.

This part is not the flashy one, but it makes a big difference later. If the stock is not prepped properly, the glue-up becomes harder and small problems tend to follow you through the rest of the build.

NOTE: The goal here is not to make the wood perfect right away. The goal is to make it workable, safe to machine, and ready for the next stage.

Start by Checking the Board

Before I cut, plane, or flatten anything, I first take a good look at the board itself. This is the point where I check for cracks, knots, bark, live edges, twist, cup, or any sections that clearly should not stay in the final piece. Sometimes the board is mostly fine and just needs light prep. Other times, it is obvious right away that I need to cut away a bad section before doing anything else.

I also try to think a step ahead here. Not every part of the board needs to be saved, and sometimes it makes more sense to break a longer rough piece into smaller usable sections first. That can make the rest of the prep much easier and safer.

This quick check also helps me decide what method I will use next. If the board is only rough, I might move straight to flattening. If it has a live edge or no clean reference side, I already know I’ll probably need my DIY Jointer Sled. If the board is badly warped, I know I need to be more careful before sending it through the planer.

TIP: Do not look only at the surface. Sight down the board and check how it sits on a flat surface. That usually tells you much more than the rough face alone.

Remove What Should Not Stay

Once I know what I am working with, the next step is getting rid of the parts that will only cause problems later. That can mean trimming off cracked ends, cutting around defects, removing bark, or simply cutting the board down into smaller sections that are easier to handle.

I try not to force a bad piece into the build just because it looks usable at first glance. If a crack is likely to spread, or an edge is too rough to work from, it is usually better to remove it early and work with clean stock from the start.

This is also where I decide whether a live edge stays or goes. For most cutting boards, especially if I want straight strips and a clean glue-up, I remove it. But on some simpler or more decorative builds, keeping more of the original shape can still make sense.

NOTE: Removing a little more material early is usually better than fighting the same defect through the rest of the build.

Flatten the First Face

After trimming the board down, I usually move to flattening the first face. This is one of the most important steps, because everything else builds from it. If the first face is not reasonably flat, it gets much harder to plane the board properly, keep thickness consistent, or get a clean glue-up later.

If the board is only a little rough and sits fairly well, I can usually start with the planer. But if it is twisted or rocking, I first secure it to a flat support board so it can go through the planer more safely. That gives me a stable base and helps me create the first usable flat face.

In some cases, a Router Flattening Jig makes more sense, especially when I am working with a wider piece, a more awkward board, or a surface I do not want to send through the planer right away. I do not use the exact same method every time, but the goal is always the same: get one reliable flat face that I can reference from the next steps.

Once that first face is flat enough, the board becomes much easier to work with.

TIP: Do not try to force a badly warped board straight through the planer on its own. If it is rocking, support it first.

Straighten an Edge

Once I have one flat face, the next thing I want is one straight edge. That edge becomes the reference for ripping the board to width, cutting cleaner strips, and keeping the rest of the stock more accurate.

If the board already has a decent factory edge or one side is straight enough, this part can be quick. But when I start with rough stock, live edges, or uneven pieces, I usually use my DIY Jointer Sled to create that first clean reference edge on the table saw. It is one of the simplest jigs, but for this kind of work it is really useful.

After that first edge is straight, I can rip the opposite side parallel and move on with much more control.

TIP: You only need one good reference edge to make the next cuts easier and more accurate.

Plane to Consistent Thickness

With one face flat and one edge straight, the board is in much better shape to finish the prep properly. At this point, I run it through the planer until I get a consistent thickness across the piece. That does not always mean taking off a lot of material — sometimes it is just enough to clean up the second face and make the board uniform.

This step matters because once I start cutting strips or preparing pieces for glue-up, I want the stock to match as closely as possible. If the thickness is inconsistent, that usually shows up later in the glue-up, flattening, or sanding.

I still try to be careful here and remove only what makes sense. Especially with nicer hardwood, it is easy to lose more material than you expected if you rush the process.

NOTE: Consistent thickness is usually more important than chasing the absolute maximum yield from every piece.

Rip the Stock and Get It Ready for Glue-Up

Once the board is flat, straight, and planed to thickness, I can start cutting it into the pieces I actually need for the cutting board. Most often, that means ripping it into strips on the table saw. At this point, the stock is much easier to work with, and the cuts are more predictable because I already have good reference faces and edges.

This is also the stage where I start thinking more about the final board. Depending on the build, I may keep the strips simple and uniform, or I may arrange them by color, grain, or overall look before the glue-up. For a more visual build, this planning can make a big difference.

The important part is that by the time I get here, the wood is finally ready for the actual cutting board process — not just rough lumber that still needs fixing.

TIP: Before glue-up, lay the pieces out dry first. It is the easiest way to check spacing, color balance, and whether anything still needs a small adjustment.

Planer vs. Router Flattening Jig: When to Use Which

Both the planer and the Router Flattening Jig can be useful when prepping wood for cutting boards, but I do not see them as interchangeable. Most of the time, if the board is manageable and safe to run through the planer, that is the faster and simpler option. It is great for cleaning faces, bringing stock to thickness, and preparing pieces for a more standard glue-up.

The router flattening jig becomes more useful when the board is too awkward, too wide, badly warped, or simply not something I want to send through the planer yet. It is also a very practical option later in the process for end grain cutting boards, where planing can be risky and tear-out becomes a bigger concern.

If you want a deeper comparison of both methods, I also wrote a full guide on How to Flatten a Cutting Board: Planer vs Router Flattening Jig.

So for me, the planer is usually the first choice for regular prep work, while the router flattening jig is the better choice for more difficult situations or special cases.

Situation	What I’d Use	Why
Board is rough but mostly stable	Planer	Fast and efficient for cleaning the faces and bringing the stock to thickness
Board is twisted or rocks too much	Planer + support board	Creates a safer and more controlled way to flatten the first face
Board is wide, awkward, or difficult to machine	Router Flattening Jig	Gives more control when the planer is not the best option
End grain board after glue-up	Router Flattening Jig	Avoids the risk of tear-out that can happen in the planer

NOTE: In many builds, it is not really planer vs. router flattening jig. Sometimes both have their place, just at different stages of the project.

Common Mistakes When Prepping Wood for Cutting Boards

Prepping the wood well makes the whole cutting board build easier. And when something feels off later in the process, it often comes back to this stage. These are some of the most common mistakes I would watch out for:

Starting with a board that is too rough or unstable
If the board is heavily twisted, cracked, or rocking on the machine bed, do not treat it like regular stock right away. It usually needs a different approach first.
Trying to skip the first flat face
This is one of the biggest ones. If you do not get one usable flat reference face first, everything after that becomes less accurate and harder to control.
Working without a straight reference edge
Before ripping strips or sizing pieces, it helps a lot to have one clean straight edge. That is exactly where something like a Jointer Sled can save time and frustration.
Removing too much material too quickly
Especially with hardwood, it is easy to lose more stock than you wanted. I usually try to remove only what is necessary to get the board flat, straight, and workable.
Ignoring the final purpose of the board
A simple edge grain board and a more decorative or [end grain cutting board] do not always need the exact same prep strategy. It helps to think a step ahead before deciding how far to take the stock at each stage.
Using the planer where a different method would be safer
Sometimes the planer is the best tool, and sometimes it is not. Wide, awkward, badly warped, or later-stage end grain pieces often make more sense with a Router Flattening Jig or another more controlled setup.

TIP: The goal is not to make the wood perfect as fast as possible. The goal is to make it safe, predictable, and ready for glue-up.

Wrap-Up

When I make cutting boards, I do not usually start with perfectly prepared stock. Most of the time, I begin with rough boards or slabs that still need some work before they are ready for the actual build. And over time, I have found that this prep stage makes a much bigger difference than it may seem at first.

If the wood is flat, straight, and clean, everything that comes after gets easier — cutting strips, glue-up, flattening, and final sanding. If the prep is rushed, those problems usually come back later. That is why I try to slow down here and get the stock into a shape that is actually workable before moving on.

For me, this is not the most exciting part of making a cutting board, but it is one of the most useful things to get right. A well-prepped piece of wood gives you a better start, more control, and usually a much cleaner final result.

And if you want to make that whole process easier, have a look at my Best Jigs to Make Cutting Boards article. It covers the jigs I use most often when building, flattening, and finishing cutting boards in the workshop.

FAQ

1. How do you prep wood for cutting boards?

To prep wood for cutting boards, start by checking the board for cracks, bark, twist, cup, or other defects. Then remove any bad sections, flatten one face, straighten one edge, plane the stock to a consistent thickness, and cut it into pieces that are ready for glue-up.

2. Do I need perfectly flat wood before making a cutting board?

You do not need the wood to be perfect right away, but you do want it to be flat enough, straight enough, and consistent enough for the next step. The goal is to create reliable reference faces and edges so the glue-up and later flattening are easier.

3. Can I use rough lumber for cutting boards?

Yes, you can use rough lumber for cutting boards, as long as you prep it properly first. That usually means trimming defects, flattening the board, straightening an edge, and planing it before starting the cutting board build.

4. Should I use a planer or a router flattening jig?

It depends on the board. A planer is usually the faster option for stock that is stable and manageable. A Router Flattening Jig makes more sense for boards that are too wide, badly warped, awkward to machine, or for later-stage end grain flattening.

5. What is the most important step when prepping wood for cutting boards?

The most important part is creating good reference surfaces. In practice, that means getting one flat face and one straight edge before moving further. Once you have those, the rest of the prep becomes much easier and more accurate.

This post How to Prep Wood for Cutting Boards first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

Types of Cutting Boards (And How to Make Them)

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 23 Apr 2026 14:00:00 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

Types of Cutting Boards (And How to Make Them)

There are a lot of different types of cutting boards, and that is one of the reasons this is such a great woodworking project. Some boards are simple and practical, some are more decorative, and some take quite a bit more planning and glue-up work. Over time, I’ve made a few different cutting boards myself, and I’ve found that people are often not just looking for what a cutting board is, but which type makes the most sense to build.

That is what this guide is about.

Instead of looking at cutting boards from only one angle, I want to go through the main types of cutting boards more broadly — by build approach, style, and overall look. The goal here is not to list every possible cutting board out there, but to give you a practical overview of the main directions you can take depending on your skill level, tools, and the kind of board you want to make.

And if you want to see the jigs that help most with cutting board projects, take a look at my Best Jigs to Make Cutting Boards article.

Cutting Board Type	Best For	Difficulty	Main Look	Typical Build Approach
Face Grain	Simple builds, serving boards, quick projects	Easy	Clean wood grain, flatter look	Boards glued edge to edge with the face up
Edge Grain	Everyday cutting boards, beginner-friendly builds	Easy to Medium	Straight grain lines, classic striped look	Boards glued face to face with the edge up
End Grain	Heavier-duty boards, premium builds, pattern work	Medium to Hard	Block pattern, detailed surface, decorative look	Strips are glued, cut, rotated, and glued again
Striped / Simple Pattern	Clean modern boards, easy design upgrades	Easy to Medium	Strong contrast, neat repeated lines	Alternating wood species in a simple glue-up
Ombre / Gradient	Decorative boards, gift builds, visual projects	Medium	Smooth transition from light to dark	Careful wood selection and color-based layout
Chaotic / Mixed Pattern	Creative builds, offcut use, unique one-off boards	Medium to Hard	Randomized pattern, more organic look	Mixed strip sizes, species, and varied glue-up layout

How to Think About Different Types of Cutting Boards
Cutting Boards by Construction Type
Cutting Boards by Style and Design
Cutting Boards by Purpose
Which Type of Cutting Board Should You Make First?
Common Mistakes When Choosing a Cutting Board Type
Wrap-Up
FAQ

How to Think About Different Types of Cutting Boards

When people talk about different cutting boards, they often mean different things. Sometimes they mean the actual construction, like face grain, edge grain, or end grain. Other times they mean the overall look of the board — for example a simple striped board, an ombre layout, or a more chaotic pattern made from mixed pieces. And in some cases, they are really thinking about purpose: a daily-use kitchen board, a serving board, or a heavier-duty chopping board.

That is why I think it makes sense to look at cutting boards from more than one angle. If you only group them by construction, you miss a lot of the design side. But if you only look at the visual style, you miss the practical part of how the board is actually built and used.

So in this article, I’ll keep it simple and go through the main types of cutting boards in a way that is useful for someone who wants to make one. I’ll look at them from the workshop perspective — how they are built, what makes them different, and what kind of project each one is best suited for.

If you want a deeper comparison of the structural side, you can also check my article on face grain vs edge grain vs end grain cutting boards.

NOTE: A cutting board can fit into more than one category at the same time. For example, a board can be edge grain by construction, striped by design, and still be intended as an everyday kitchen board.

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Types of Cutting Boards — visual guide to cutting board types, styles, and build ideas.

Cutting Boards by Construction Type

One of the most common ways to group cutting boards is by how they are built. This is usually the first distinction woodworkers learn, because it affects not just the look of the board, but also how the glue-up works, how much stock you need, and how involved the whole project becomes.

The three main construction types are face grain, edge grain, and end grain.

Face grain boards are usually the simplest visually. They show more of the wide face of the wood, and they can work well for lighter-use boards or serving-style projects.
Edge grain boards are one of the most common choices for woodworking projects. They are practical, look clean, and are a very good option if you want to build a solid everyday cutting board without making the process too complicated.
End grain boards are the most involved of the three, but they also open the door to more decorative layouts and premium-looking builds. They usually take more preparation, more milling, and more careful glue-up work, but the final result can be really impressive.

For me, this is the most useful way to think about construction type: it sets the base of the project. After that, you can still change the style, pattern, wood species, shape, handles, or add details like a juice groove. That is why construction type matters — it gives the board its starting point.

TIP: If you are just getting into cutting boards, edge grain is usually a very good place to start. It gives you a nice result without making the glue-up too complicated.

Cutting Boards by Style and Design

Once you get past the basic construction type, the next big difference is the overall style of the board. This is usually the part that gives a cutting board its personality. Two boards can be built the same way structurally, but still look completely different depending on the wood choice, strip layout, color contrast, and pattern.

The simplest style is a striped board. That is often where many cutting board projects begin, and for good reason. It is clean, practical, and easy to adjust just by changing the wood species or the width of the strips. Even a basic striped layout can look really good if the proportions are right.
From there, you can move into more visual designs like ombre or gradient boards, where the color shifts gradually from light to dark, or the other way around. These builds usually take a bit more planning, because the look depends a lot on how you arrange the pieces before glue-up. The construction itself may not be dramatically harder, but the layout matters much more.
Then there are chaotic or mixed-pattern boards, where the goal is not a clean repeated pattern but a more varied and organic look. These can be a great way to use different offcuts or mix several species together, but they also need some control. If the layout is too random, the board can start to look messy instead of intentional.

This is the part of cutting board making I enjoy a lot, because small changes in layout can completely change the final result. Sometimes the board is all about function, and sometimes the visual side becomes part of the fun. And in many cases, it is somewhere in between.

If you plan to add details later, this is also the stage where it helps to think ahead. For example, if you want to cut a juice groove, add handles, or shape the edges, it is easier to plan that early rather than treat it as an afterthought.

NOTE: Style and construction are not the same thing. A board can be edge grain by construction, but still be striped, ombre, or chaotic by design.

Cutting Boards by Purpose

Another useful way to think about cutting boards is by what you actually want them to do. Because in the workshop, the “right” board is not always the most complex one or the most decorative one. Sometimes the best choice is simply the one that fits the job.

Some boards are meant for everyday kitchen use. These are the boards you want to reach for often, clean easily, and use without overthinking it. In that case, a practical shape, comfortable size, and solid construction usually matter more than a very complicated pattern.
Other boards lean more toward serving or presentation. These can still be fully usable, but the visual side plays a bigger role. This is where shape, contrast, and details like rounded corners, handles, or a more decorative layout can make a bigger difference.
Then there are boards built more like heavy-duty chopping boards, where thickness, durability, and overall sturdiness matter more. These tend to feel more substantial and are often the kind of project where you want the board to stay planted and handle regular hard use.

I think this matters because it changes how you approach the build. If you are making a daily-use kitchen board, you may want to keep the design simpler and focus more on practicality. If you are making a gift or a more decorative piece, you might spend more time on layout, color transitions, and finishing details.

And once you know the purpose, a lot of smaller decisions become easier too — size, thickness, edge treatment, whether to add a juice groove, and how much time it makes sense to invest in the overall design.

TIP: Before starting a cutting board, decide whether you want it to be mainly practical, mainly decorative, or somewhere in between. That one decision makes the rest of the build much easier.

Which Type of Cutting Board Should You Make First?

If you are just getting started, I think the best choice is usually a simple edge grain board or another clean striped build. It gives you a good result, teaches you the main process, and does not make the glue-up harder than it needs to be.

Once you are comfortable with that, it makes sense to move into more planned designs like ombre layouts or more decorative boards where the visual side matters more. And after that, if you want more of a challenge, you can step into end grain builds or more complex mixed patterns.

That is usually the order I would recommend: start simple, get the process right, and then build up from there. Things like clean milling, accurate glue-ups, flattening, shaping, and sanding matter on every cutting board, no matter how simple or advanced the final design is.

If you want help with that side of the process, take a look at my Best Jigs to Make Cutting Boards article. Jigs like a jointer sled, flattening jig, handle jig, or even a good sanding block can make a big difference when building cutting boards.

TIP: A simpler board that is well milled, well glued, and nicely finished will usually look better than a more complex board that feels rushed.

Common Mistakes When Choosing a Cutting Board Type

One mistake I see quite often is starting with a cutting board that looks impressive, but is simply too complicated for where you are at. It is easy to get pulled toward a more advanced pattern or glue-up, but if the process becomes frustrating, the whole project stops being fun.

Another common mistake is focusing too much on the look of the board and not enough on how it will actually be used. A board for everyday kitchen use does not need the same approach as a decorative serving board or a heavier chopping block. The purpose should always help guide the design.

I also think people sometimes underestimate how much the prep work matters. A cutting board may seem like a simple project, but straight stock, clean glue-ups, flattening, and sanding make a huge difference in the final result. Even a basic board can look great if those parts are done well.

If you are unsure, choose the simpler version first. You can always make a more advanced board next, but a clean and well-finished simple board is never a bad project.

Mistake	Why It Happens	Better Approach
Choosing a design that is too advanced	The board looks exciting, but the build is harder than expected	Start with a simpler striped or edge grain board first
Thinking only about appearance	The design comes first, but the actual use is ignored	Match the board style to whether it is for daily use, gifting, or display
Underestimating prep and finishing	Cutting boards seem simple, so milling and sanding get rushed	Put more focus on straight stock, flat glue-ups, and clean finishing

Wrap Up

There are a lot of different ways to approach cutting boards, and that is exactly what makes them such a good woodworking project. You can keep things simple and practical, or you can put more focus on design, pattern, and overall presentation. For me, that is part of the fun — even when the project stays relatively small, there is still a lot of room to experiment and improve.

If there is one thing I would recommend, it is to choose the type of cutting board that fits your current skill level, tools, and goal for the build. A simpler board done well is always better than a more complicated one that feels rushed. Once you get the process down, it becomes much easier to move into more decorative or more advanced builds.

And if you want help with the process side of it, have a look at my Best Jigs to Make Cutting Boards article. It covers the jigs I find most useful when building and finishing cutting boards in the workshop.

FAQ

1. What are the main types of cutting boards?

The main types of cutting boards are usually grouped by how they are built: face grain, edge grain, and end grain. But in practice, cutting boards can also be grouped by style, pattern, and purpose. That is why two boards can be built differently and still both work well, depending on what you want from the project.

2. What is the easiest type of cutting board to make?

A simple edge grain cutting board is usually one of the easiest options to start with. It gives you a solid, practical result without making the glue-up too complicated. A basic striped board is often a very good first project if you want to learn the process.

3. Which type of cutting board is best for beginners?

For most beginners, a simple cutting board with a clean layout is the best place to start. That could be an edge grain board or another straightforward striped design. It lets you focus on milling, glue-up, flattening, and sanding without adding too much complexity right away.

4. Can different cutting board styles use the same construction type?

Yes, absolutely. A cutting board can be one construction type and still have many different design styles. For example, an edge grain board can be striped, more decorative, or built with a more varied mixed pattern. The construction and the visual design are related, but they are not the same thing.

5. How do I choose the right type of cutting board to build?

The best way is to start with the purpose of the board and the tools you have available. If you want a practical everyday board, a simpler build usually makes the most sense. If you want something more decorative or want to try a new pattern, you can choose a design that gives you a bit more of a challenge.

This post Types of Cutting Boards (And How to Make Them) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

How to Make a Wooden Chess Board (Step-by-Step DIY Guide)

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 26 Mar 2026 14:00:00 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

How to Make a Wooden Chess Board (Step-by-Step DIY Guide)

In this post I’m going to show you how I built a wooden chess board from beech and walnut. I love this combo because the contrast is strong even when it’s raw, and once you oil it, the pattern really pops.

The finished board is 35 × 35 cm (including the frame). The playable area inside is 29 × 29 cm, which gives you squares around 3.6 × 3.6 cm each. That size feels like a nice sweet spot: plenty of room for standard chess pieces, but not so big that the board takes over the whole table. I also added a frame around the outside — partly for style, but mainly because it helps protect the rim from small dents and chipping over time.

If you’ve ever made an edge-grain cutting board, you’ll recognize a lot of the process. This build has the same “rhythm”: cutting strips to size (I’m starting with planed boards), gluing up panels, flattening, trimming to final dimensions, and then finishing. Different end goal, but very similar steps — which is honestly why it’s such a fun project.

And if you want to make the build easier (especially the glue-up/flattening/sizing parts), a lot of the same jigs apply here too.
👉 Best Jigs for Making Cutting Boards (And How to Use Them)

Video: Watch the Build

If you prefer to follow along visually, here’s the full build video — I’ll walk through the main steps and show the key details up close.

Video: Watch the Build
Chessboard Plans
Materials and Tools Used (Beech + Walnut)
Woodworking Plans (Coming Soon)
Chess Board Size and Layout (Squares, Play Area, and Frame)
Let’s Start Building!
1. Step 1: Cut the Wooden Strips to Size (Beech + Walnut)
2. Step 2: Glue Up the Strips (First Panel)
3. Step 3: Crosscut the Panel into Blocks + Second Glue-Up (Make the Chess Pattern)
4. Step 4: Flatten the Board (Planer or Router Flattening Jig)
5. Step 5: Build and Attach the Frame (Beech Frame + Walnut Inlay)
6. Step 6: Sand and Finish the Chess Board (Grain Raise + Oil)
Wrap-Up: A Chess Board That’s Fun to Build (and Even Better to Use)
FAQs: How to Make a Wooden Chess Board

Chessboard Plans

Download the Chessboard Plans here

Download plans here

Materials Used (Beech + Walnut)

I built this chess board from beech and walnut for a clean contrast that really pops once it’s oiled.

Affiliate disclaimer: Some of the links in this post may be affiliate links — they don’t cost you anything extra, but they help support the builds and free guides on AllFlavor Workshop.

Materials:

Walnut, Beech
Wood Glue – Wood Glue
Cutting Board Oil – Cutting Board Oil
Sandpaper Sheets – Sandpaper Sheets
Sanding Discs – Sanding Discs

Tools:

Table Saw – Table Saw
Planer – Planer
Router – Router
Orbit Sander – Orbit Sander
Bessey Parallel Clamps – Parallel Clamps
F-Clamps – F-Clamps
Wolfcraft One Hand Clamps – Wolfcraft One Hand Clamps
T-Track Clamps – T-Track Clamps

Tools:

Table Saw Blade – Table Saw Blade
Grr-Ripper Push Block – Grr-Ripper Push Block
Chamfer Router Bit – Chamfer Bit
Bench Cookies – Bench Cookies
Wood Scraper – Wood Scraper
Silicon Glue Brush – Silicon Glue Brush
Painters Tape – Painters Tape
Dust Respirator – Dust Respirator
Respirator Cartridge – Respirator Cartridge
Eye Protection – Eye Protection

Check All the Tools I Use

Woodworking Plans (Coming Soon)

I’m working on clean, printable plans for this chess board — they’re on the way and I’ll add them here as soon as they’re ready.

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How to Make a Wooden Chess Board — step-by-step build with clean squares.

Chess Board Size and Layout (Squares, Play Area, and Frame)

Before you cut anything, it’s worth deciding on the final size and the square layout. A chess board is always 8×8 squares, and the main thing that matters is that the squares are consistent and sized to match the pieces you want to use.

If you want a reference point, official tournament boards are typically built with 5–6 cm squares. My board is more compact on purpose. The finished size is 35 × 35 cm, with a 29 × 29 cm playable area inside the frame. That gives squares around 3.6 × 3.6 cm, which fits nicely on a normal table and still leaves enough space for most chess sets (especially smaller pieces).

The outer frame isn’t just for looks either — it also helps protect the rim from dents and chipping over time, which is handy if the board is going to be moved around and actually used.

How to Make a Wooden Chess Board (Step-by-Step)

Alright — let’s build it. I’ll walk through the process the same way I build edge-grain cutting boards: prep the strips, create the square pattern panel, add the frame, then flatten, trim, sand, and finish. I’ll include the key measurements I used along the way so you can adjust the size if you want a bigger or smaller board.

Step 1: Cut the Wooden Strips to Size (Beech + Walnut)

I started with beech and walnut boards that were already planed to 19 mm thickness. First, I ripped both species into strips that are 36 mm wide. Then I used my crosscut sled to cut the strips to 350 mm length.

At the end of this step, I had 4 beech strips and 4 walnut strips, all the same size: 36 × 350 mm (thickness stays 19 mm). Now we’re ready for the first glue-up.

NOTE: I cut them to 350 mm on purpose — that extra length gives me a buffer for clean crosscuts and trimming in the next steps.

Step 2: Glue Up the Strips (First Panel)

Before gluing, I do a quick dry fit and pay attention to orientation — which face goes “up,” how the grain looks next to each other, and whether I want to alternate growth rings to help keep things flatter. Once I’m happy with the order, I apply glue, bring the strips together, and clamp the panel.

I tighten the clamps gradually and keep an eye on alignment, so the strips stay flush and I don’t create extra work for flattening later. If I have space, I’ll also add a clamp across the top to help keep the panel as flat as possible while it cures.

While the glue is still soft, I wipe or scrape off the squeeze-out. After the panel dries, I use a scraper to remove any remaining dried glue before moving on.

NOTE: Try to keep glue off the surfaces as much as possible — dried glue can mess with sanding and can show up later when you apply finish.

Step 3: Crosscut the Panel into Blocks + Second Glue-Up (Make the Chess Pattern)

Once the first panel is fully dry, I move back to the table saw and start crosscutting it into “blocks” that will become the chessboard pattern. Since my square size is 36 mm, I set the stop/cut length to 36 mm and use the crosscut sled again for repeatable cuts.

Before I cut the whole panel, I always do a couple of test cuts. If you’re even slightly off here, the pattern won’t line up perfectly later — so it’s worth taking a minute to dial it in.

After all the cuts are done, I rotate every other strip to create the classic checkerboard pattern, then I do the second glue-up. This glue-up needs a bit more attention than the first one — I take my time to align the corners so the squares meet cleanly.

Just like before: remove squeeze-out while it’s soft, and scrape off any dried glue once everything cures.

TIP: During the second glue-up, align the corners and square lines first, then tighten clamps. If the corners are clean, the whole pattern usually follows.

Step 4: Flatten the Board (Planer or Router Flattening Jig)

After the second glue-up, the board is usually close — but not perfectly flat. You have a couple of good options here: you can flatten it with a planer, or you can use a router flattening jig (router sled). Both work, and each has pros and cons depending on your tools and how wide the board is.

If you want the full comparison (and when I’d pick which), here’s my guide:
👉 How to Flatten a Cutting Board: Planer vs Router Flattening Jig

For this chess board, I used the planer. To avoid tear-out on the ends (and reduce the risk of snipe), I glued two sacrificial wood pieces to both sides of the board. These take the damage instead of the chess board itself. Then I ran the board through the planer with very light passes, a few times, until it was flat and level.

NOTE: When you glue the sacrificial pieces on, use only a small amount of glue. You don’t want a super-strong bond — after planing, you want them to pop off easily.

TIP: Take shallow passes and don’t rush. It’s safer for the board (especially the corners) and you’ll get a cleaner surface for sanding later.

Step 5: Build and Attach the Frame (Beech Frame + Walnut Inlay)

The frame is one of my favorite parts of this build — it makes the board look more finished, and it also protects the outer edges from dents and chipping. I made the frame from beech, 12 mm thick and 30 mm wide, going all the way around the board. For a bit of extra detail, I also added a thin walnut inlay in the frame just for contrast.

First, I ripped the frame strips to width. Then I placed them around the chess board, marked the exact miter positions, and moved to the table saw. For accurate cuts I used my picture frame jig to cut all the miters. This is a step where it’s worth slowing down — if the cuts are even slightly off, you’ll see gaps in the corners.

Once the pieces fit nicely, I added glue, placed the frame around the chess board, and used a picture frame strap clamp to pull everything tight and square. While the glue was still wet, I cleaned up squeeze-out. After the glue dried, I used a router jig to add a small bevel around the frame edges to soften it and give it a nicer finished look.

NOTE: Don’t over-tighten the strap clamp — you want the corners to close, but you don’t want the frame to slide out of position.

Step 6: Sand and Finish the Chess Board (Grain Raise + Oil)

This is the fun part — the step where everything comes together. I sanded the whole board from 80 grit up to 300 grit, making sure the surface feels even and the edges are clean. Then I lightly sprayed it with water to raise the grain. Once it dried, I sanded again (quick pass) to knock the fuzz down, and after that I moved on to finishing.

For the finish, I applied a few coats of Belinka oil, letting each coat soak in and then fully dry before adding the next one. This is the moment where the board really transforms — the beech and walnut fields deepen, the contrast becomes sharper, and the whole pattern starts to look “alive.”

TIP: Put wax paper (or a plastic sheet) under the board while oiling. Excess oil will drip or wipe off, and you don’t want it staining your workbench or table.

And that’s it — the board is done. LET’S play Chess! ♟️

NOTE: Don’t rush the drying. If the surface still feels oily, give it more time — the finish will look better and feel better once it’s fully cured.

Wrap-Up: A Chess Board That’s Fun to Build (and Even Better to Use)

This is a really nice weekend project. If you’ve made cutting boards before, a lot of the steps will feel familiar — ripping strips, glue-ups, flattening, sanding, finishing… it’s the same rhythm. And if you haven’t made cutting boards yet, then building this chess board is basically your first cutting board — and not just a simple one, but an edge-grain one. 😉

What I like about this project is that you get a finished piece that’s actually useful, looks great on the table, and teaches you a bunch of “core” woodworking skills in one build: clean glue-ups, keeping panels flat, accurate crosscuts, and a finish that makes the wood pop. Plus, you can easily customize it later — bigger squares, a different frame, or different wood combinations.

If you want to make builds like this easier (chess boards and cutting boards), here’s my full guide to the jigs I use and recommend:
👉 Best Jigs for Making Cutting Boards (And How to Use Them)

FAQs: How to Make a Wooden Chess Board

1) What size should the squares be on a wooden chess board?

It depends on your chess pieces. Tournament boards often use squares around 5–6 cm, but for a compact home board smaller squares can work great. In this build I used squares around 3.6 × 3.6 cm, which fits nicely on a normal table and works well with smaller to mid-sized pieces.

2) What are the standard dimensions of a chess board?

A chess board is always 8×8 squares. The overall size depends on your square size and whether you add a border/frame. For example, an 8×8 playing area made with 5 cm squares is 40×40 cm (plus any frame).

3) What wood is best for a wooden chess board?

The best approach is using one light hardwood and one dark hardwood for contrast. Beech + walnut works great (that’s what I used), but maple/walnut is also a classic combination. Choose stable hardwoods that machine cleanly and finish nicely.

4) How do you keep a wooden chess board from warping?

Use dry, stable wood, keep glue-ups flat during clamping, and flatten the panel after glue-up. A border/frame can also help protect edges, but good prep and even finishing are the big factors. Also try not to soak the board with water — wipe it clean instead.

5) What finish should I use on a wooden chess board?

A penetrating oil finish works really well because it’s easy to apply and makes the grain pop. I used Belinka oil on this board. Whatever you choose, apply it evenly (top and bottom if possible) and let it fully dry/cure before using the board.

This post How to Make a Wooden Chess Board (Step-by-Step DIY Guide) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

Best Wood Finishes for Cutting Boards (Food-Safe Oils, Wax, and Care Tips)

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 19 Mar 2026 14:00:00 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

Best Wood Finishes for Cutting Boards (Food-Safe Oils, Wax, and Care Tips)

Adding a finish to a cutting board is usually the very last step before you start using it. It’s the end of the whole process — the board is shaped, sanded, cleaned up, and finally ready. And honestly, I love this moment. You wipe on the oil and the board instantly “wakes up” — darker woods get richer, lighter woods get warmer, and the contrast between species pops right away. That’s the point where the board really comes alive.

Finishing isn’t just about looks though. The main job of oil/wax is protection and preservation: it helps slow down water absorption, keeps the wood from drying out, and makes the surface easier to wipe clean after daily use.

There are a lot of options out there, but these are my 3 go-to finishes for cutting boards:

Clark’s Oil + Wax (my favorite overall)
Easy to apply, great feel in the hand, and the wax adds a nice extra layer of water resistance.
Affiliate link: CLARK’S OIL + WAX
Belinka (great alternative option)
A solid, food-contact finish that I like when I want something a bit more “set and done” compared to basic oiling.
Mineral oil (simple and reliable)
The classic budget-friendly option. Easy maintenance and works on any board — you just reapply more often.
Affiliate link: FOOD GRADE MINERAL OIL

In the rest of this guide I’ll show you how I apply finish in my shop (I’ll do the full step-by-step on Clark’s), how often I refresh it, and what to avoid if you want a finish that’s truly cutting-board friendly.

If you’re building boards and want the full workflow (flattening, juice grooves, handles, edge profiles), start here:
👉 Best Jigs for Making Cutting Boards (And How to Use Them)

Why You Should Finish a Cutting Board
Food Safety Basics for Cutting Board Finishes
Choosing a Cutting Board Finish: Oil, Oil + Wax, or Food-Contact Oil
Comparison Table: Best Wood Finishes for Cutting Boards
Clark’s Oil + Wax (How I Apply It on Cutting Boards)
How Often Should You Oil a Cutting Board?
Wrap-Up: The Finish That Makes a Cutting Board Feel “Done”
FAQs

📌 Save THIS PIN to your Board on Pinterest!

Best Wood Finishes for Cutting Boards — food-safe oil + wax and easy care tips.

Why You Should Finish a Cutting Board

A cutting board finish is partly about looks — but mostly it’s about keeping the board in good shape long-term. Wood is always moving and reacting to moisture, and a board that’s left “raw” will dry out faster, absorb water more easily, and start looking tired much sooner.

Functionally, a good oil/wax finish helps with:

Preservation: slows down moisture exchange so the board doesn’t dry out as quickly
Easier cleaning: water and food juices don’t soak in as fast, so the board wipes cleaner
Less staining and odor: finished boards are less likely to pick up smells and deep stains
Hygiene (realistic expectation): it doesn’t make a board “sterile,” but a well-finished board is easier to clean and less likely to hold onto gunk in dry, fuzzy grain

And aesthetically, this is where the magic happens:

Grain and figure pop, contrast between wood species gets stronger
Dark woods get richer, lighter woods warm up
The board instantly looks more “finished” and professional

One important thing to keep in mind: finishing isn’t a one-time operation. Cutting boards need basic maintenance — reapply oil when the surface starts looking dry or “thirsty.” I’ll cover an easy rule of thumb for how often to refresh it later in the post.

Food Safety Basics for Cutting Board Finishes

When we talk about “food safe” cutting boards, it’s really a combo of two things: food-safe wood + the right finish. Most hardwoods we use for boards are naturally non-toxic and safe for food contact — but the finish matters, because it’s what you’re putting on the surface that touches your food every day.

What “food safe” actually means

For cutting boards, “food safe” usually means the finish is either:

non-toxic once cured, or
a non-curing oil/wax that’s commonly used for food-contact surfaces (and safe in normal use)

In practice, the goal is simple: you want something that won’t leave harmful residue, won’t turn sticky, and won’t chip off into your food.

What to avoid on cutting boards

I keep it pretty conservative here. I avoid anything that creates a hard “film” that can crack, chip, or peel over time — because cutting boards get chopped, scraped, and washed constantly.

I’d also avoid:

Cooking oils (olive oil, sunflower, etc.) — they can go rancid and smell over time
Anything that stays tacky/sticky (usually from heavy coats or the wrong product)
Finishes that don’t make sense for daily washing and knife contact

Quick note: End grain boards drink finish

End grain boards soak up finish like crazy — especially on the first few applications. The first time you oil one, you’ll be surprised how much it absorbs, and you’ll usually need to refresh the finish more often compared to face grain or edge grain boards. That’s normal — end grain is basically a bundle of tiny “straws,” and it wants to drink.

Choosing a Cutting Board Finish: Oil, Oil + Wax, or Food-Contact Oil

Most cutting board finishes fall into three simple buckets. They all work — the main difference is how they feel, how much protection they add, and how often you’ll reapply.

1) Oil (simple and reliable)

This is the classic option — mineral oil is the most common example. It’s easy to apply, affordable, and it makes the grain pop right away. The tradeoff is that it doesn’t “build up” much on the surface, so you’ll usually reapply more often, especially on end grain boards.

2) Oil + wax (my favorite feel and day-to-day protection)

This is my go-to for cutting boards. The oil soaks in, and the wax adds a little extra water resistance and a smoother, more finished feel. That’s why I like Clark’s Oil + Wax — it’s easy to apply, it looks great, and the board feels nicer in the hand.

3) Purpose-made food-contact oils (a more “set-and-done” option)

These are still oils, but they’re formulated specifically for wood that touches food. That’s where Belinka Oil Food Contact fits in. I like it as an alternative when I want a dedicated product for this purpose. It’s still a penetrating oil finish (not a hard varnish layer), but it can feel a bit more “finished” than plain mineral oil depending on how you apply and maintain it.

Quick takeaway:
If you want the simplest budget option, go mineral oil. If you want the best overall feel and a little extra protection, go oil + wax. And if you want a dedicated food-contact oil option, Belinka is a solid alternative.

Comparison Table: Best Wood Finishes for Cutting Boards

Finish	Best for	Look & feel	Water resistance	Application	When you can use it	Maintenance	Notes
Clark’s Oil	My main oil step before wax	Pops grain fast, natural feel	Medium	Wipe on, let it soak, wipe off	After it soaks in and feels dry to the touch	Refresh when the board looks dry (end grain more often)	Great “base layer” before wax; easy to reapply
Clark’s Wax / Board Butter	Top coat feel + extra water resistance	Smooth, slightly richer, “finished” feel	High (for a cutting board finish)	Rub in thin, let haze, buff	After buffing (once it’s not greasy)	Touch up when water stops beading or surface feels dry	My favorite combo with Clark’s Oil; great for serving boards too
Belinka Oil Food Contact	A dedicated food-contact oil option	Natural look, slightly more “set” feel than plain mineral oil	Medium to medium-high	Wipe on, let soak, wipe off (repeat as needed)	Once it’s dry to the touch (follow the label for full cure)	Refresh when the board looks dry or loses water beading	Good alternative if you want a purpose-made product for food contact
Food-Grade Mineral Oil	Simple, budget-friendly starting point	Nice grain pop, very neutral feel	Low to medium	Wipe on generously, let soak, wipe off	After excess is wiped off and it doesn’t feel oily	Most frequent reapply (especially end grain boards)	Works on any board; great “baseline” finish, just needs more upkeep

Tip: End grain boards absorb a lot more finish at first. The first few applications can disappear fast — that’s normal.

Clark’s Oil + Wax (How I Apply It on Cutting Boards)

This is the finish I use the most on cutting boards. It’s simple, it looks great, and it gives the board that “finished” feel without turning it into a hard film. It also spreads really nicely, and I genuinely like the smell — the one I use has a light citrus scent (they have other scents as well). The oil pops the grain, and the wax top coat leaves a nice subtle shine, adds a bit more water resistance, and makes the surface feel smoother in the hand.

Affiliate link (what I use): CLARK’S OIL + WAX

When I use it

I apply Clark’s at the very end, once the board is fully built and sanded. It works great on face grain, edge grain, and end grain boards — just keep in mind that end grain will drink a lot more oil at first. I also like it for serving boards, because the wax leaves a really nice feel in the hand.

My application steps (simple shop routine)

Final sanding + dust cleanup
I finish sanding, then wipe the board clean so there’s no dust left in the pores.
Oil coat (wipe on, let it soak, wipe off)
I wipe on a generous coat of oil, let it soak in for a bit, then wipe off the excess. If the board looks “thirsty” in spots, I’ll add a little more.
Let it rest
I give it some time so the oil settles in and the surface doesn’t feel greasy.
Wax coat (thin layer + buff)
I apply a thin wax coat, let it haze slightly, then buff it out. This is the step that makes the board feel smooth and finished.

Maintenance (how often I refresh it)

This isn’t a one-and-done finish. I refresh it whenever the board starts looking dry, feels rough, or water stops beading on the surface. End grain boards usually need more attention at the beginning, but once they’re “loaded up,” maintenance becomes pretty easy.

How Often Should You Oil a Cutting Board?

Oiling a cutting board isn’t a one-time thing. If you want the board to last and keep looking good, a quick refresh is part of normal maintenance — just like sharpening a knife.

1. Quick rule of thumb (new board vs. already finished)

New board: oil it a few times in the beginning until the surface stops “drinking” it instantly. New boards (especially end grain) soak up a lot at first.
Already sealed board: after that, you’re usually just doing quick touch-ups when it starts looking dry again.

2. Visual signs it’s time to re-oil

You don’t need a strict schedule — the board will tell you:

The surface looks dry or pale in spots
The board feels a bit rough instead of smooth
Water stops beading and starts soaking in quickly
End grain areas look especially “thirsty” compared to the rest

3. End grain vs edge grain vs face grain (what to expect)

End grain: needs the most oil at the start and usually the most frequent refresh. It’s basically a bundle of tiny “straws,” so it drinks finish fast.
Edge grain: middle ground — still benefits from regular oiling, but not as thirsty as end grain.
Face grain: usually the least demanding. It still needs maintenance, just not as often.

A simple habit that works well: if the board looks dry after washing and drying, it’s probably time for a quick oil refresh.

Wrap-Up: The Finish That Makes a Cutting Board Feel “Done”

If you ask me, oiling a cutting board isn’t optional — it’s part of what makes the board last. A good finish helps preserve the wood, slows down water absorption, and keeps the surface easier to clean and maintain over time. And just as important, it’s the step that makes the board look and feel “done.” The grain pops, contrast shows up, and the whole board suddenly has that finished, professional look.

My personal go-to is still Clark’s Oil + Wax. It’s easy to apply, it spreads nicely, it smells great (I like the citrus one), and the wax top coat leaves a smooth feel with a bit of extra water resistance. It’s a simple routine that works, and once you’ve done it a few times it becomes a quick habit — especially when you reapply only when the board starts looking dry or thirsty.

If you’re building cutting boards and want the full workflow (flattening, juice grooves, handles, edge profiles — and the jigs that make everything easier and more repeatable), start here:
👉 Best Jigs for Making Cutting Boards (And How to Use Them)

FAQs: Best Wood Finishes for Cutting Boards

1) What is the best wood finish for cutting boards?

For most home shops, a simple food-safe oil finish is the best choice because it’s easy to apply and easy to maintain. My personal favorite is an oil + wax system (like Clark’s Oil + Wax) because it gives the board a smooth “finished” feel and a bit more water resistance than plain oil.

2) Is mineral oil food safe for cutting boards?

Yes — food-grade mineral oil is widely used for cutting boards because it’s stable, odorless, and easy to reapply. The downside is that it doesn’t build much protection, so you’ll usually need to refresh it more often than an oil + wax finish.

3) How often should you oil a cutting board?

It depends on how often you use and wash it, and what type of board it is. As a rule of thumb, new boards need a few coats at the start, then you reapply whenever the board looks dry, feels rough, or water stops beading. End grain boards typically need more frequent oiling than edge grain or face grain boards.

4) What finishes should I avoid on a cutting board?

I avoid finishes that can chip or peel under knife use, and I also avoid cooking oils (like olive or sunflower oil) because they can go rancid and smell over time. Stick to finishes designed for food contact, like mineral oil or a proper oil + wax product.

5) Can I put a wax top coat on a cutting board?

Yes. A wax top coat (often beeswax-based) is a nice upgrade because it adds a smoother feel and improves water resistance. It won’t make the board waterproof, but it helps water bead up and makes cleanup easier. You still maintain it over time as the board dries out.

This post Best Wood Finishes for Cutting Boards (Food-Safe Oils, Wax, and Care Tips) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

How to Add Handles to a Cutting Board (Cutouts, Finger Grips & Slots)

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 12 Mar 2026 14:00:00 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

How to Add Handles to a Cutting Board (Cutouts, Finger Grips & Slots)

Adding handles to a cutting board is usually one of the later steps in the build — for me it comes right after the juice groove and edge profiles. It’s not strictly necessary (especially if you’re adding rubber feet), but it has a lot of benefits: the board is more comfortable to pick up and move around, easier to carry to the sink, and it instantly gives the project a more professional, finished look.

Just to keep the naming clear: people call these handles by different names — cutouts, slots, finger grips, finger grooves… and sometimes the same style gets called two different things. In this post I’ll focus on the two styles I actually use: an underside finger grip (my go-to), and a side finger groove/slot as an alternative.

Most of the time I stick to the underside grip because it feels natural and the board is easy to lift and carry. The best way to cut handles is with a router, ideally with a simple handle jig or a router table once you’ve dialed the setup in.

If you want the full cutting board workflow (and the jigs that make it easier), start here:
👉 Best Jigs for Making Cutting Boards (And How to Use Them)

The 2 Handle Styles I Use Most
Why Add Handles to a Cutting Board?
Tools You Need to Add Handles (Handheld Router vs Router Table)
Router Bits for Cutting Board Handles (What I Use and Why)
Handle Type 1 — Underside Finger Grip (Handheld Router + Jig or Router Table)
Handle Type 2 — Side Finger Groove / “Side Slot” (Round Nose Bit + Router Table)
Burn Marks on Handles (Causes, Prevention, Fix)
Wrap-Up: A Simple Upgrade That Makes a Big Difference
FAQs: How to Add Handles to a Cutting Board

Save THIS PIN to your Board on Pinterest!

How to Add Handles to a Cutting Board — underside finger grip + router bit setup.

The 2 Handle Styles I Use Most

There are a few different handles you can add to a cutting board. In this guide I’ll focus mainly on the two styles I actually use in my shop: the underside finger grip (my go-to) and the side finger groove. And if you want an even simpler “no-routing-jig” option, you can also add small chamfers on the sides — it’s not a full handle, but it definitely makes the board easier to grab.

1) Underside finger grip (my go-to)

This is the handle I use the most. It’s routed on the lower part of the side, usually centered and around 100 mm / 4″ long. Your fingers slide underneath the board, so it feels natural to lift and carry — and the handle stays pretty subtle from the top.

Bits I use: straight bit (deeper grip) or cove bit (comfortable shape)

2) Side finger groove / “side slot” (good alternative)

This one is routed into the side face of the board, usually centered. Your fingers grip from the side instead of underneath. I like it as an alternative when I want a clean side detail or I don’t want to remove as much material from the underside.

Bit I use: round nose / ball nose bit

Optional “super simple” handle: small side chamfers

If you don’t want to route a full handle, a small chamfer on the side edges can still improve grip and comfort. It’s quick, looks clean, and it’s a nice option on thinner boards or boards with rubber feet.

Why Add Handles to a Cutting Board?

Handles are one of those features that you don’t fully appreciate until you use the board for a while. A bigger cutting board can get surprisingly heavy, and once it’s wet it can feel awkward to lift — especially if the edges are clean and sharp.

What handles improve right away:

Easier handling: you can pick the board up, flip it, and carry it without pinching the edge
More comfort and control: your fingers have a natural grip point, so the board feels more secure (especially at the sink)
Better “finished” look: even a subtle underside grip makes the board feel more designed and professional
Big payoff for little work: it’s a quick routing step that adds function without changing the overall build much

Tools You Need to Add Handles (Handheld Router vs Router Table)

You can cut cutting board handles two ways — handheld router or router table — and honestly, both work great. It’s the same approach as edge profiles: once you have a setup you like, it really pays off. You don’t need to rebuild your whole process every time… most of the time you’re just swapping bits and running the next operation.

Here’s what I use (and what I recommend):

Router (handheld or plunge router)
Works perfectly for both underside grips and side grooves. A plunge router can feel a bit easier for consistent depth, but a standard router works fine too.
Router table (optional, but super consistent)
A router table is great when you want repeatable cuts and a stable setup. If your table is already set up, it’s often faster to run multiple boards without fussing around.
👉 DIY Benchtop Router Table
Handle jig / guide jig (recommended for repeatability)
A simple handle jig keeps your routing straight, centered, and consistent — especially for underside grips.
👉 DIY Cutting Board Handle Jig
Multi-purpose router jig (if that’s what you use in your shop)
If you already have a multipurpose jig that can guide the router for grooves/handles, it’s a great “one jig, many jobs” setup.
👉 Multi-Purpose Router Jig
Scrap wood for test cuts
This is underrated. A quick test cut tells you if the grip feels right before you touch the real board.

Quick note: handles are all about comfort — you need enough space to grab the board easily and maneuver it. I usually add rubber feet, so my underside handles can be a bit more shallow. Side grooves can feel slippery if they’re too shallow (that one is personal preference), so I always test the depth on scrap first.

Router Bits for Cutting Board Handles (What I Use and Why)

For cutting board handles, I keep it simple — a few basic bits cover everything I do. Once your router setup is dialed in (handheld or router table), it’s usually just a matter of swapping the bit and routing the same handle length and position.

Straight bit (for deeper underside grips)

This is my go-to when I want the underside finger grip to have a bit more “hook” and space for your fingers. It cuts clean walls and gives you a deeper pocket-style grip.

Affiliate link (my go-to straight bit): STRAIGHT BIT

Cove bit (for shallow underside grips)

I use a cove bit when I want a more rounded, comfortable shape but I don’t want to remove too much material — especially if I’m planning to add rubber feet and the board sits higher anyway.

Affiliate link (cove bit): COVE BIT

Round nose / Ball nose bit / Core box bit (for side finger grooves)

This is my main bit for the side finger groove handle. It gives you a smooth rounded groove that feels good in the hand and looks clean from the side.

Affiliate link: CORE BOX BIT

Handle Type 1 — Underside Finger Grip (Handheld Router + Jig or Router Table)

This is my go-to handle style. It’s subtle, comfortable, and it makes the board much easier to lift — especially bigger boards. Below are the two ways I cut it most often, depending on what setup I already have on the bench.

Option 1: Straight Bit + Handle Jig (handheld router)

Turn the board upside down, place it on a workbench, and fix it in place — this part really matters. If the board wobbles or shifts while routing, the handle won’t be clean (and it can get sketchy fast).

Next, place the handle jig on the side of the board, center it, set your depth, and clamp it down. My jig gives me a handle length of 100 mm / 4″. Once everything is locked in, start routing with light passes and repeat until you hit your final depth. If I’m adding rubber feet, I usually go for about 8 mm (~5/16″) deep.

Option 2: Cove Bit + Router Table (with stoppers)

This is a clean and repeatable way to do underside grips if your router table is already set up. Set your stoppers on the left and right to control the handle length. Then make sure the bit is centered so the handle ends up centered on the board as well.

Start with light passes and repeat until you reach your depth. Again, if the board will get rubber feet, I usually stop around 8 mm (~5/16″) deep — enough room to grab the board easily without removing too much material.

Handle Type 2 — Side Finger Groove / “Side Slot” (Round Nose Bit + Router Table)

This handle style is routed into the side face of the board, centered on the long edge. It’s a clean look, it feels good when it’s deep enough, and the router table makes it very repeatable once you’ve set your stoppers.

Round nose bit + router table (my setup)

Set the stoppers on the router table on both the left and right side to control the handle length. Then make sure the bit is centered so the groove ends up centered on the board — both along the length and vertically on the side face.

To start the cut, I dive in vertically, then make a light pass. Repeat a few times until you reach the depth that feels right. I usually end up around 5–8 mm (~3/16″–5/16″) deep, depending on the board thickness and how “grippy” I want it to feel.

Burn Marks on Handles (Causes, Prevention, Fix)

Burn marks on handle cuts usually come from one thing: too much heat. That happens when the bit is rubbing instead of cutting cleanly — most often because the pass is too heavy, the feed rate is too slow, or the bit is dirty/dull (pitch buildup is a classic).

One more thing that gets overlooked: chips. If chips build up and get trapped between the bit and the wood, they create friction, heat up fast, and burn marks show up out of nowhere — so it really helps to clear chips as you go (especially on deeper grooves).

What you’re seeing	Main cause	How to prevent it	How to fix it
Dark burn marks along the handle cut	Feed rate too slow or pausing in one spot (bit rubs and heats up)	Keep a steady feed and don’t stop mid-cut; do lighter passes	Take a very light cleanup pass; if needed, sand the handle area to blend
Burning mostly on hardwoods (maple/beech/walnut)	Pass is too deep for the bit and setup	Do 2–4 light passes to reach final depth (especially for grooves)	Back off the depth, take a light finish pass, then sand lightly if needed
Burning keeps happening even with light passes	Dirty bit (pitch/resin) or dull cutting edges	Clean the bit regularly and use sharp carbide	Clean the bit first; if it still burns, replace/sharpen the bit
Burning with larger bits or wide contact area	RPM too high for bit size (more heat)	Lower RPM for larger bits if your router has variable speed	Reduce speed and take a light cleanup pass; sand if marks remain

Wrap-Up: A Simple Upgrade That Makes a Big Difference

If you ask me, adding handles is one of the best upgrades you can do on a cutting board — especially once you start making bigger boards. It’s a small extra step, but the payoff is huge: the board is easier to pick up, easier to move around, and just feels better to use day-to-day. And visually, a clean handle instantly makes the board look more “designed” and professional.

My personal go-to is still the underside finger grip. It feels natural, it’s comfortable to lift, and it stays pretty subtle from the top. But the side finger groove/slot is a great option too — it looks clean on the side and works really well as long as you give it enough depth so it doesn’t feel slippery.

Either way, the key is comfort: do a quick test cut, sneak up on the depth with light passes, and you’ll land on a handle that feels right in the hand.

If you want to make this step (and the whole cutting board build) easier and more repeatable, jigs help a lot — especially when you’re doing multiple boards. Here’s my full guide to the jigs I use for cutting boards:
👉 Best Jigs for Making Cutting Boards (And How to Use Them)

FAQs: How to Add Handles to a Cutting Board

1) What are the best handle styles for a cutting board?

The most practical handle styles are underside finger grips and side finger grooves/slots. Underside grips are subtle and very comfortable to lift, while side grooves look clean and work well as long as they’re deep enough to feel secure.

2) What router bits do I need to add handles to a cutting board?

For the handle styles in this guide, you only need a few basics: a straight bit for deeper underside grips, a cove bit for a more rounded shallow underside grip, and a round nose/ball nose bit for side finger grooves.

3) How deep should cutting board handles be?

It depends on the board thickness and what feels good in your hand. As a practical starting point, about 5–8 mm (3/16″–5/16″) works well for many boards. If you’re using rubber feet, underside grips are often a bit more shallow because the board sits higher off the counter.

4) How do I avoid burn marks when routing handles?

Burn marks come from heat, usually caused by a dirty/dull bit, too slow of a feed rate, or passes that are too heavy. Take light passes, keep a steady feed, and clear chips as you go so they don’t get trapped between the bit and the wood.

5) Do I need a jig to route handles in a cutting board?

You can do it without a jig, but a simple handle jig or router table setup makes the cut more repeatable and easier to center. If you’re making more than one board, a jig is one of those things that quickly pays off.

This post How to Add Handles to a Cutting Board (Cutouts, Finger Grips & Slots) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

Edge Profiles for Cutting Boards: Roundover vs Chamfer (How to Round Edges)

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 05 Mar 2026 14:00:00 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

Edge Profiles for Cutting Boards: Roundover vs Chamfer (How to Round Edges)

Adding edge profiles to a cutting board is usually one of the final steps in the build. It’s not strictly necessary, but it has a few big benefits: the board feels much more comfortable in your hands, the edges are less likely to chip or split over time, and it instantly gives the whole piece a more professional, finished look.

Most of the time I stick to two profiles — a chamfer or a roundover. You can experiment with other profiles too, but these two are simple, clean, and they work on basically any board. Personally, I prefer the chamfer because it feels more like a deliberate design choice (more “pro” in my head), but the classic roundover is always a safe, good-looking option.

The best way to cut these profiles is with a router — either handheld or at a router table — and I’ll show you exactly when I use each setup, which bits work best, and how to avoid tear-out and burn marks.

If you want the full cutting board workflow (including the router setups and jigs that make this easier), start here: 👉 Best Jigs for Making Cutting Boards (And How to Use Them)

Quick Answer: Chamfer vs Roundover (Which One Should You Use?)
Why Edge Profiles Matter on Cutting Boards
Tools You Need to Round Edges on a Cutting Board
Router Bits for Cutting Board Edges (Chamfer Bit vs Roundover Bit)
How to Cut Clean Edge Profiles (And Prevent Tear-Out)
How to Fix Burn Marks on Routed Edges
Wrap-Up: The Easiest Upgrade You Can Make to Any Cutting Board
FAQs: Edge Profiles for Cutting Boards (Roundover vs Chamfer)

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Edge Profiles for Cutting Boards — Chamfer vs Roundover (how to round edges).

Quick Answer: Chamfer vs Roundover (Which One Should You Use?)

If you’re choosing between these two edge profiles, you really can’t go wrong — both make a cutting board feel better in the hand and look more finished. But they do have a different “vibe” and a slightly different use case.

Chamfer (my default pick)

A chamfer gives you a crisp, clean edge that looks intentional — almost like a design detail instead of “just rounding it over.” It’s fast to cut, it looks great on both simple boards and nicer serving boards, and it’s easy to keep consistent once you dial in the bit height.

I’d choose a chamfer when:

you want a more modern, professional look
you like a clean line around the board
you want a profile that’s quick to route and easy to repeat
you’re okay with a slightly “sharper” feel compared to a roundover (still comfortable, just less soft)

Roundover (classic and super comfortable)

A roundover is the standard cutting board edge for a reason. It feels great in the hand, it’s forgiving, and it blends beautifully after a quick sanding pass. If you’re making a board that’s going to be used every day, this is the safe, comfortable option.

I’d choose a roundover when:

you want the softest feel in the hand
you prefer a classic look
you want the most forgiving profile (especially if you’re new to routing)
you’re doing a board for heavy daily use and want that smooth “grab it anywhere” comfort

My simple recommendation:
If you want a slightly more “designed” look, go chamfer. If you want maximum comfort and a classic finish, go roundover. And either way — a light sanding pass at the end is what really makes the profile look clean.

Why Edge Profiles Matter on Cutting Boards

Edge profiles are one of those “small effort, big upgrade” steps. A sharp 90° edge might look fine right after sanding, but in real use it’s not that comfortable to grab — and corners are the first place that get dinged when the board gets moved around, bumped on the counter, or washed and dried over and over.

A simple chamfer or roundover fixes all of that. It makes the board noticeably more comfortable in the hand, especially when you’re lifting it, flipping it, or carrying it to the sink. It also helps protect the board long-term, because eased edges are less likely to chip, split, or splinter, and they don’t feel “sharp” even if the wood moves a bit with humidity.

And then there’s the look: adding a clean profile instantly makes the board feel more finished — almost like it was designed that way from the start. Even if the rest of the build is simple, a neat edge profile gives the board a professional, intentional finish without adding a bunch of extra steps.

Tools You Need to Round Edges on a Cutting Board

You don’t need a ton of gear to add a clean edge profile — but having a solid setup makes it a lot more enjoyable (and way more consistent). Once you dial it in, it’s one of those steps that just flows, especially if you’re doing more than one board.

The reason I’m mentioning handheld router vs router table is simple: it’s the same idea you’ll use not only for edge profiles, but also for handles and cutouts. You set up your router once, get the feel for it, and then you can run through boards quickly. Whether you do it handheld or on a router table, the payoff is that you don’t really need to change the whole setup — most of the time you’re just swapping bits.

Here’s what I use (and what I recommend):

Router (handheld or plunge router)
A handheld router works perfectly fine for edge profiles. If you’re comfortable with it, a plunge router can feel even more controlled when you’re setting bit height.
Router table (optional, but the easiest way to get repeatable results)
For profiles, a router table is honestly the “cheat code.” The board stays flat, your hands are farther from the bit, and it’s much easier to keep the profile consistent around the whole perimeter.
👉 Benchtop Router Table
Chamfer bit and/or roundover bit
These two cover 95% of cutting board edges. If you’re only buying one to start, pick the profile you like most and get a decent-quality carbide bit.
Sanding block + sandpaper (and also a solid alternative)
Even if you route the profile, a quick sanding pass makes it feel finished and blends everything together (especially on end grain corners). And if you just want to break the edges and don’t care about perfect precision, a sanding block alone works really well too.
👉 Sanding Block
Bench cookies (makes handheld routing easier)
If you’re routing handheld, bench cookies are a simple upgrade — the board won’t slide around, and you can work the edges without fighting the workpiece.
Affiliate link: BENCH COOKIES
Clamps + a stable work surface
If you’re not using bench cookies, clamp the board down. A moving board is how you get uneven profiles (and scary moments).
Scrap wood for test cuts
One quick test cut tells you if the profile is too big, too small, or exactly right before you touch the real board.

Quick note: If you’re routing end grain edges, plan on doing multiple light passes and a little sanding — that’s where profiles can tear out if you rush.

Router Bits for Cutting Board Edges (Chamfer Bit vs Roundover Bit)

For cutting boards, these are the two edge bits I use the most. They’re easy to control, they look great, and they instantly make the board feel more “finished.” You can run both handheld or on a router table — once your setup is dialed in, switching between them is basically just swapping the bit.

Chamfer bit (my preferred profile)

A chamfer gives you a crisp, clean line around the board. In my mind it looks a bit more designed and professional, and it’s also quick to route because you’re just creating a simple bevel.

Why I like it:

Modern, clean look (very “pro” with minimal effort)
Easy to keep consistent once the bit height is set
Great on both cutting boards and serving boards

Affiliate link (chamfer bit): CHAMFER BIT

Roundover bit (classic option)

Roundover is the traditional cutting board edge for a reason. It feels super comfortable in the hand, it’s forgiving, and it blends beautifully after a quick sanding pass.

Why it’s a great choice:

Soft, comfortable feel (especially for daily-use boards)
Very forgiving to route
Easy to “finish perfect” with sanding

Affiliate link (roundover bit): ROUNDOVER BIT

TIP: You don’t need a huge roundover radius for most boards — a small roundover (or a light chamfer) already makes a big difference.

How to Cut Clean Edge Profiles (And Prevent Tear-Out)

Cutting a chamfer or roundover is pretty straightforward — the difference between “okay” and “perfect” is usually router direction, support, and pass depth.

Route direction: go counter-clockwise around the board

When you’re profiling the outside edge of a cutting board, you generally want to move counter-clockwise around the perimeter. The reason is simple: with a normal router rotation, this keeps the bit pulling the router into the work instead of trying to climb away from it. It feels more controlled, you’re less likely to lose your line, and you’ll get a cleaner profile.

(If you go the other way, the router can want to “run” along the edge — that’s where you get those little jumps and uneven spots.)

Router table vs handheld router (I use both)

I use whichever setup is already on the bench. The nice thing is you can cut both edge profiles and handles either way — handheld or on a router table — so once you have a setup you like, you don’t need to reinvent the process every time. Most of the time it’s just swap the bit and keep moving.

Router table: easiest for repeatable edges, stable board support, and consistent results
Handheld router: great when the board is large/awkward, or when it’s easier to bring the tool to the work

Light passes = cleaner cuts (and less tear-out)

This is the big one. Don’t try to route the full profile in one go. Take 2–3 light passes until you hit your final depth. It’s smoother, easier on the bit, and it massively reduces tear-out — especially on end grain corners.

Extra tear-out prevention tips (quick but effective):

Start with a test cut on scrap to dial in bit height
Keep the board fully supported (router table, clamps, or bench cookies)
On end grain corners, take it slow and don’t rush the feed rate

If you do those three things — counter-clockwise direction, stable support, light passes — your edges will come out clean and consistent almost every time.

How to Fix Burn Marks on Routed Edges

Burn marks usually come from one thing: too much heat. That happens when the bit is rubbing instead of cutting cleanly.

What it is	Main cause	How to prevent it	How to fix it
Bit is rubbing instead of cutting	Too much heat from friction (common when feed is too slow or you pause)	Keep a steady feed rate and don’t stop mid-edge	Make a very light cleanup pass; if needed, sand the edge to blend the profile
Dull or dirty router bit	Pitch/resin buildup or worn cutting edges	Clean the bit regularly; use sharp carbide and don’t force heavy cuts	Clean the bit first; if burning continues, replace/sharpen the bit
Too deep of a pass	Bit struggles, heats up, and leaves burn marks (especially on hardwood)	Do 2–3 lighter passes to reach final depth	Back off the depth and take a light finish pass; then sand lightly if needed
Bit speed too high for the cutter size	Large diameter bits at high RPM generate more heat	Lower RPM for larger bits if your router has variable speed	Reduce speed and take a light cleanup pass; sand if burn marks remain

Quick tip: If burn marks keep happening even with light passes and steady feed, it’s almost always a dirty or dull bit.

Wrap-Up: The Easiest Upgrade You Can Make to Any Cutting Board

If you ask me, adding an edge profile is the easiest “small step, big payoff” upgrade you can do on a cutting board. It doesn’t take long, it doesn’t require fancy tools, and it instantly makes the board feel more finished — both in your hands and on the bench.

My personal favorite is still the chamfer. I like that clean, crisp line around the board — it looks intentional and a bit more “designed” in my eyes. But the classic roundover is always a great choice too, especially if you want the softest feel for a board that gets used every day. Either way, a simple profile helps protect the edges, reduces the chance of little chips and splinters over time, and makes the board much nicer to grab, flip, and carry.

And the best part is: once you dial in your router setup, it becomes a quick repeatable step. A couple of light passes, a fast sanding touch-up, and the board suddenly looks like it came out of a proper shop.

If you want to make the whole cutting board process easier (flattening, juice grooves, handles, edge profiles — everything), here’s my full guide to the jigs I use:
👉 Best Jigs for Making Cutting Boards (And How to Use Them)

FAQs: Edge Profiles for Cutting Boards (Roundover vs Chamfer)

1) Is chamfer or roundover better for a cutting board?

Both work great — it mostly comes down to look and feel. I prefer a chamfer because it gives the board a clean, modern “designed” edge with very little effort. A roundover is the classic option and usually feels a bit softer in the hand, especially for daily-use boards.

2) What router bit should I use to round edges on a cutting board?

Use a roundover bit to create a rounded edge profile. You don’t need a huge radius — even a small roundover makes the board feel more finished. If you want a crisp bevel instead, use a chamfer bit.

3) How do I prevent tear-out when routing cutting board edges?

The easiest fixes are: take 2–3 light passes, keep the board fully supported, and slow down on the end grain corners. A test cut on scrap helps a lot too. Most tear-out happens when you try to cut the full profile in one pass or rush the corners

4) Why am I getting burn marks when routing the edge profile?

Burn marks are usually heat from friction — most often caused by a dirty/dull bit, moving too slowly, pausing in one spot, or taking too heavy a pass. Clean the bit, take lighter passes, and keep a steady feed rate. For larger bits, lowering RPM can help too.

5) Can I round over a cutting board without a router?

Yes. If you just want to break the sharp edges, you can do it with a sanding block and sandpaper. It won’t be as perfectly consistent as a routed roundover, but it’s a great option for quick boards, small bevels, or final blending after routing.

This post Edge Profiles for Cutting Boards: Roundover vs Chamfer (How to Round Edges) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

Cutting Boards – AllFlavor Workshop

How to Maintain and Care for Your Cutting Board

Table of Contents

Why Cutting Board Maintenance Matters

What Happens If You Do Not Maintain a Wooden Cutting Board

Daily Cutting Board Care After Normal Use

How to Oil and Wax a Cutting Board

My Preferred Cutting Board Care Routine

Signs Your Board Needs More Than Regular Maintenance

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Wrap-Up

FAQ

1. How often should I oil a wooden cutting board?

2. Do I need wax if I already use cutting board oil?

3. What is the best daily care for a wooden cutting board?

4. What happens if I do not maintain my cutting board?

5. When does a cutting board need refinishing instead of regular maintenance?

Cutting Board Sizes & Thicknesses (Best Dimensions and Layout Tips)

Table of Contents

Why Cutting Board Size and Thickness Matter

What Is a Good Size for an Everyday Cutting Board?

Common Cutting Board Thicknesses and What They Feel Like

How Board Purpose Changes the Best Dimensions

My Preferred Cutting Board Size (And Why I Like It)

Layout Tips Before You Build

How Tool Limits Can Affect Cutting Board Dimensions

Common Mistakes When Choosing Cutting Board Dimensions

Wrap-Up

FAQ

1. What is a good size for an everyday cutting board?

2. How thick should a cutting board be?

3. Are thicker cutting boards better?

4. What size cutting board should I make?

5. Do tool limits matter when choosing cutting board dimensions?

How to Prep Wood for Cutting Boards

Table of Contents

What Prepping Wood for Cutting Boards Actually Means

Start by Checking the Board

Remove What Should Not Stay

Flatten the First Face

Straighten an Edge

Plane to Consistent Thickness

Rip the Stock and Get It Ready for Glue-Up

Planer vs. Router Flattening Jig: When to Use Which

Common Mistakes When Prepping Wood for Cutting Boards

Wrap-Up

FAQ

1. How do you prep wood for cutting boards?

2. Do I need perfectly flat wood before making a cutting board?

3. Can I use rough lumber for cutting boards?

4. Should I use a planer or a router flattening jig?

5. What is the most important step when prepping wood for cutting boards?

Types of Cutting Boards (And How to Make Them)

Table of Contents

How to Think About Different Types of Cutting Boards

Cutting Boards by Construction Type

Cutting Boards by Style and Design

Cutting Boards by Purpose

Which Type of Cutting Board Should You Make First?

Common Mistakes When Choosing a Cutting Board Type

Wrap Up

FAQ

1. What are the main types of cutting boards?

2. What is the easiest type of cutting board to make?

3. Which type of cutting board is best for beginners?

4. Can different cutting board styles use the same construction type?

5. How do I choose the right type of cutting board to build?

How to Make a Wooden Chess Board (Step-by-Step DIY Guide)

Video: Watch the Build

Table of Contents

Chessboard Plans

Materials Used (Beech + Walnut)

Woodworking Plans (Coming Soon)

Chess Board Size and Layout (Squares, Play Area, and Frame)

How to Make a Wooden Chess Board (Step-by-Step)

Step 1: Cut the Wooden Strips to Size (Beech + Walnut)

Step 2: Glue Up the Strips (First Panel)

Step 3: Crosscut the Panel into Blocks + Second Glue-Up (Make the Chess Pattern)

Step 4: Flatten the Board (Planer or Router Flattening Jig)

Step 5: Build and Attach the Frame (Beech Frame + Walnut Inlay)