Can this jig cut dados too?

Yes. The jig can also guide straight router cuts and dados. For frequent dado work or different dado widths, a dedicated dado jig may be more convenient.

router jig – AllFlavor Workshop

DIY Router Rabbet Jig: Cut Clean, Accurate Rabbets

About the author, Lukas — Sat, 26 Sep 2026 14:00:00 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

DIY Router Rabbet Jig: Cut Clean, Accurate Rabbets

There are several ways to cut a rabbet with a router, but I wanted something quick to set up, easy to align, and flexible enough to use on both small and larger workpieces. That is why I built this router rabbet jig.

A rabbet — also called a rebate in British English — is a recess cut along the edge of a workpiece. Rabbets are useful for boxes, drawers, cabinet backs, shelves, and many other woodworking projects.

The idea behind this jig is very simple. I draw the beginning of the rabbet on the workpiece, place the jig on top, align the router opening with the cut line, clamp everything down, and make the cut.

There is no complicated measuring each time.

The built-in crosspiece also gives me a 90° reference, so once the workpiece is sitting correctly against it, I know the router cut will be perpendicular to the edge.

That is probably the biggest reason I like this jig. It is fast.

For a square or rectangular panel, I can cut one rabbet, rotate the workpiece, reposition the jig, and continue with the next side. Cutting all four edges only takes a few minutes once everything is set up.

The jig measures roughly 500 × 400 mm (19-11/16 × 15-3/4 in), which makes it useful for much more than small box parts. I can comfortably cut rabbets around 400 mm (15-3/4 in) long while keeping good support, and in practice I can stretch that to around 450 mm (17-3/4 in) when the setup is properly supported.

That makes it useful for:

boxes
drawers
cabinet parts
shelves
larger plywood panels
general straight router cuts

I also designed it so I can use a normal straight router bit rather than relying on a dedicated rabbeting bit. For this build, I use a 15 mm (about 5/8 in) straight bit.

And because the jig itself defines the cutting position, the width of the rabbet is not limited to the width of that bit. I can make a narrow rabbet in one pass or reposition the jig and make several passes for a wider one.

If you already use router jigs in your workshop, also have a look at my Best Router Jigs for Your Workshop and Router Jigs for Cabinet Making.

What Is a Router Rabbet Jig?
Downloadable Router Rabbet Jig Plans
Materials and Tools
Why I Built This Jig
Router Rabbet Jig Size and Capacity
How the Router Rabbet Jig Works
Let’s Start Building!
1. Step 1: Cut the Three Main Jig Pieces
2. Step 2: Glue the Guide and 90° Crosspiece
3. Step 3: Add the Overlapping Clamping Section
4. Step 4: Drill the Clamping Holes
5. Step 5: Reinforce the Jig From Below
6. Step 6: Create the Router Opening and Cutting Path
How to Use the Router Rabbet Jig
How to Set Rabbet Width and Depth
What Else Can You Use the Jig For?
Wrap-Up
Frequently Asked Questions

*Safety is your responsibility. Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first!

What Is a Router Rabbet Jig?

A router rabbet jig is a guide that helps position a handheld router accurately along the edge of a workpiece. My version consists of three plywood parts:

a long upper router guide
a shorter upper clamping section
a lower crosspiece that registers against the workpiece

The long guide controls the router. The crosspiece creates the 90° reference. And the overlapping upper section gives me several places to clamp the jig, workpiece, and workbench together.

The result is a jig that is very quick to position. Instead of measuring the router-base offset every time, I align the actual router cutting opening with the line on my workpiece.

Downloadable Router Rabbet Jig Plans

I am currently preparing PDF plans for this jig. The plans will include:

exact jig dimensions
metric and imperial measurements
complete cut list
plywood thicknesses
clamping-hole locations
router-opening dimensions
part placement
build layout
step-by-step assembly details

Until then, you can see all my available downloads on the Woodworking Plans page.

Materials and Tools

Wood

12 mm (about 1/2 in) Baltic birch plywood
9 mm (about 3/8 in) Baltic birch plywood
sacrificial board

Hardware and Consumables

wood glue
wood screws
sandpaper

Tools

Table saw – Link
Router – Link
Table saw blade – Link
Push block – Link
F-clamps – Link
One-hand clamps – Link

I used my Table Saw Sled for the crosscuts.

✅ Check all the tools I use here

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Build a simple router rabbet jig for fast setup, accurate 90° rabbets, and flexible cutting widths.

Why I Built This Jig

I already have several router jigs, including my Router Dado Jig and Adjustable Router Dado Jig. Both are useful, but I wanted something even quicker for rabbets.

The main thing I wanted was ease of use. With this jig I can:

mark the rabbet
position the jig
align the router opening
clamp it
make the cut

The built-in 90° stop also makes positioning much faster than using a loose straightedge. Another reason is flexibility. A bearing-guided rabbeting bit is convenient, but the rabbet width is closely tied to the bit and bearing setup.

With this jig and a normal straight bit, I can make:

narrow rabbets
wider rabbets
several-pass rabbets
different rabbet depths

without changing the basic jig. That is probably the feature I use the most.

Router Rabbet Jig Size and Capacity

My jig is approximately: 500 × 400 mm (19-11/16 × 15-3/4 in) The upper parts are made from 12 mm Baltic birch plywood (about 1/2 in). The lower crosspiece is 9 mm plywood (about 3/8 in).

I intentionally used the thinner plywood for the lower section. That keeps the workpiece close to the upper guide and also makes the jig convenient when working with common 12 mm / about 1/2 in plywood.

The larger overall size is intentional. A tiny jig would work fine for a small box, but I also wanted to use this one for:

drawer sides
cabinet panels
longer shelves
larger plywood pieces

I can cut approximately 400 mm (15-3/4 in) of rabbet comfortably while keeping good jig support. With additional support and careful clamping, around 450 mm (17-3/4 in) is realistic as well.

NOTE: Bigger is not automatically better. The size works well for my projects, but if you only build small boxes, you could make the same design more compact.

How the Router Rabbet Jig Works

The important part of this jig is the relationship between the long guide and the lower crosspiece. They must be exactly 90° to each other.

The workpiece sits underneath the jig and against the crosspiece. Once it is registered there, the long guide automatically runs perpendicular to the edge. I then align the cutting opening with the rabbet line I marked on the workpiece.

The clamping holes let me clamp everything together. The upper clamping section extends slightly over the lower crosspiece. That overlap is intentional.

It gives the clamp something solid to grab and helps sandwich the entire assembly tightly together. For smaller pieces, the four clamping holes are generally enough. For longer workpieces, I clamp through the jig and also secure the far end directly to the workbench.

💡TIP: Never rely on only one clamp with a router jig like this. The workpiece and jig should feel like one solid assembly before the router starts.

Let’s Start Building!

The jig is relatively simple. There are only three main plywood parts.

But the accuracy of the final jig depends heavily on one thing: the 90° relationship between the long router guide and the lower crosspiece. Take your time to make it right.

How to Make a Simple Router Rabbet Jig

Step 1: Cut the Three Main Jig Pieces

I start by cutting the three plywood components.

two upper pieces from 12 mm (about 1/2 in) Baltic birch plywood
one lower crosspiece from 9 mm (about 3/8 in) plywood

The upper pieces consist of the long router guide and the shorter overlapping clamping section. The lower piece runs across the jig and registers against the edge of the workpiece.

I cut the strips on the table saw. For narrow rip cuts, I use a push block. For crosscuts, I use my Table Saw Sled. Make sure the edges are clean and straight. A crooked guide edge will transfer directly into the router cut.

NOTE: The exact part dimensions and offsets are included in the downloadable plans.

Step 2: Glue the Guide and 90° Crosspiece

This is probably the most important build step.

I glue the long upper guide to the lower crosspiece. I leave some space on the router side so there is room for the router bit and cutting path later.

Before clamping the pieces, I use two squares to check the alignment. The long guide and crosspiece need to be as close to a true 90° angle as possible.

On a short box part, a tiny error may barely be visible. But on a longer cabinet or drawer component, that same error gets amplified over the length of the cut.

Once everything is square, I clamp the pieces lightly and let the glue dry. Do not use excessive pressure. You want enough pressure to close the joint without shifting the alignment.

💡TIP: Check the angle again after the clamps are tightened. Pieces can move slightly while the clamps are being positioned.

Step 3: Add the Overlapping Clamping Section

Once the first glue-up is dry, I clean away the excess glue. Then I add the second upper plywood piece. This shorter section sits next to the long guide and overlaps the crosspiece and workpiece area.

That overlap is important because it creates a strong clamping zone. I align it with the existing upper guide and crosspiece, apply glue, and clamp it in place.

After the glue dries, I clean everything again. Pay particular attention to the inside intersection near the crosspiece. Any dried glue bump here can prevent the workpiece from sitting tightly against the stop. I scrape away the excess, sand the surfaces, and remove any splinters. The workpiece should sit flat and snug against the crosspiece.

Step 4: Drill the Clamping Holes

Next I add the clamping holes. My jig has four. One sits around the intersection of the long guide and crosspiece. The remaining holes are positioned in the overlapping clamping section.

I drill them with a 35 mm (about 1-3/8 in) Forstner bit. Place a sacrificial board underneath before drilling. That protects the workbench and also supports the underside of the plywood for a cleaner exit cut.

Once the holes are drilled, I lightly sand the edges. I also cut one corner of the overlapping piece at an angle. That part is mainly cosmetic, but it gives the jig a slightly cleaner shape.

💡TIP: Make the clamping holes large enough that your normal workshop clamps fit comfortably through them. A clamping hole is not useful if your clamp cannot enter at a practical angle.

Step 5: Reinforce the Jig From Below

Once the glued assembly is complete, I add several screws from the bottom to reinforce the glued joints. I predrill first. Then I drive the screws in and make sure every screw head finishes flush or slightly below the plywood surface.

Glue does most of the positioning work. The screws simply add extra mechanical reinforcement.

Step 6: Create the Router Opening and Cutting Path

The last major step is creating the router opening. This opening becomes the reference I use later when aligning the jig with a marked rabbet line.

I first drill a 20 mm (about 13/16 in) starter hole near the center of the guide. Then I place the jig over a sacrificial board. Using my handheld router and 15 mm (about 5/8 in) straight bit, I gradually cut the router path from the hole to the edge of the guide.

I make several shallow passes rather than trying to cut through everything at once. This is especially useful with plywood. The sacrificial board underneath supports the bottom veneer and helps prevent splintering.

Take your time. The edge of this router opening becomes the reference for future rabbet cuts, so the path needs to stay straight. Once the opening is finished, clean up the edges and give the jig a final sanding.

Now, the jig is ready.

💡TIP: Do not create the full router opening in one deep pass. Several shallow cuts are easier on the router and normally leave a cleaner plywood edge.

How to Use the Router Rabbet Jig

Using the jig is probably easier than building it.

First, mark the rabbet on the workpiece. You do not necessarily need to draw the entire rabbet. For many cuts, marking the beginning or edge position is enough.
Place the workpiece underneath the jig and push it firmly against the lower crosspiece.
Then align the edge of the router opening with the line you marked.
Clamp the jig and workpiece to the workbench.For smaller pieces, the built-in clamping holes work very well. For longer parts, I also clamp the far end of the workpiece directly to the bench.

Before routing, check that:

the jig cannot move
the workpiece cannot move
the workpiece is sitting tightly against the crosspiece
the router has stable support throughout the cut
the bit cannot contact any screws or clamps

Then make the cut. I usually make several depth passes rather than removing the entire rabbet at once. This gives a cleaner cut and puts less load on the router.

How to Set Rabbet Width and Depth

This is one of the things I like most about the jig. The rabbet width and depth are controlled separately

Rabbet Width

The width is controlled by the jig position. Mark where you want the rabbet to end and align the router-opening edge with that line.

For a narrow rabbet, one router pass may be enough.
For a wider rabbet, reposition the jig and make additional cuts.

That means I am not limited to the exact width of my 15 mm router bit.

Rabbet Depth

The depth is controlled by the router. Set the plunge or bit depth to the required rabbet depth.

For deeper rabbets, make several passes. That is normally cleaner and easier on both the bit and router. This separation of width by jig position and depth by router setting gives the jig a lot of flexibility.

Cutting Multiple Rabbets on One Workpiece

For something like a box panel, the workflow is very quick.

Cut the first rabbet.
Release the clamps.
Rotate the workpiece.
Register the next edge against the crosspiece.
Align the line.
Clamp again. Cut. Repeat.

Because the crosspiece is fixed at 90°, I do not need to re-create the angle each time.
This is where the jig becomes much faster than setting up a separate straightedge repeatedly.

What Else Can You Use the Jig For?

Although I built it primarily for rabbets, it is more versatile than that.

Straight Router Cuts

The long guide can be used on its own as a straight router reference. You do not always need to register the workpiece against the crosspiece. That makes the jig useful for general straight routing.

Dados

You can also use the jig to cut dados. This works especially naturally when the dado width matches the router bit used to create the cutting path.

For more flexible dado widths, though, I would still normally use my dedicated Router Dado Jig or Adjustable Router Dado Jig.

That is exactly why I keep different router jigs in the workshop. They overlap slightly, but each one is quicker for a particular job.

Router Rabbet Jig vs Router Dado Jig

The two jigs are related, but I use them differently.

Cut	Jig I Prefer	Why
Rabbet along an edge	Router Rabbet Jig	Quick edge registration and built-in 90° reference
Internal dado	Router Dado Jig	Designed specifically for internal channels
Different dado widths	Adjustable Router Dado Jig	Easy width adjustment around the workpiece
Straight router cut	Either	Both can provide a straight router reference

Where I Would Use This Jig

Rabbets show up in many woodworking projects. Some common examples include: wooden boxes, drawers, cabinet backs, shelves, plywood casework, recessed panels, bottoms and backs, simple frame construction.

A good example is my How to Make a Wooden Box project, which uses rabbet joints.
For cabinet work, the jig also fits naturally with the router setups I cover in Router Jigs for Cabinet Making.

Wrap-Up

This is one of those jigs that looks very simple, but once I started using it, I quickly realized how much time it can save. There are plenty of ways to cut rabbets — with a router table, rabbeting bit, straightedge, table saw, or another router guide — but what I like about this jig is how quickly I can set it up, clamp the workpiece, and make a clean, repeatable cut.

For me, that mix of speed, accuracy, stability, and flexibility is what makes it worth having in the workshop, especially when I need to cut several rabbets in a row. If you want to build the same jig, you can download the plans with the full dimensions, layout, and both metric and imperial measurements.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a router rabbet jig?

A router rabbet jig is a guide that helps a handheld router cut an accurate recess along the edge of a workpiece. My version includes a long router guide, a 90° crosspiece for positioning the workpiece, and clamping holes to secure the setup.

Is a rabbet the same as a rebate?

Yes. In woodworking, rabbet is the term commonly used in the United States, while rebate is commonly used in British English. They describe the same type of edge recess.

Can I cut rabbets with a straight router bit?

Yes. That is how I use this jig. I use a standard 15 mm (about 5/8 in) straight bit, and I control the rabbet width by positioning the jig rather than relying on the router bit alone.

How do you make a wider rabbet than the router bit?

Make the first cut, reposition the jig, and make another pass beside it. The jig position controls the final width, so you can create rabbets wider than the router bit.

How deep should I cut a rabbet in one pass?

That depends on the wood, router, bit, and required depth. For deeper rabbets, I prefer several shallow passes rather than removing all the material at once.

This post DIY Router Rabbet Jig: Cut Clean, Accurate Rabbets first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

How to Make a Router Circle Jig (Multi-Function Router Base Addon)

About the author, Lukas — Tue, 18 Apr 2023 12:31:14 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

How to Make a Router Circle Jig (Multi-Function Router Base Addon)

In this blog post, I will be sharing how to make a router circle jig for a multi-purpose router base that I previously built. A multi-purpose router jig is a tool used in woodworking with a trim router that can perform a wide range of tasks such as cutting dados, grooves, rabbets, mortises, flattening wooden surfaces, and even making homemade T-tracks. One of the things that make this jig particularly useful is its versatility.

When it comes to cutting circles in wood, there are several tools you can use such as a jigsaw, a circular saw, or a bandsaw. However, my preferred tool for this task is a router. The results are precise, and the edges come out clean. Additionally, you can easily adjust the diameter of the circle you want to cut, making it a great choice for both small and large circles.

There are two ways to cut a circle with the multi-function router jig:

You can attach an additional accessory to the multi-purpose router base using T-nuts. However, this method is limited in terms of the diameter of the circle it can cut, and should only be used for small diameters.
You can attach a prolonged arm to the multi-purpose router base. This method allows you to adjust the diameter of the circle you want to cut with an embedded scale ruler. The length of the arm determines the maximum diameter of the circle you can cut.

The benefits of the circle jig addon are that you will not need an additional standalone circle-cutting jig, it can be used to cut both small and large circles, and you can cut circles of an exact diameter using the embedded scale ruler. Moreover, it can be used with multiple different trim routers.

To make the route circle jig, you will need a plywood and MDF desk, which are easily available at any hardware store. These materials are strong and durable, making them an excellent choice for making woodworking jigs.

Keep reading to find out how to make a router circle jig for a multi-function router base, and how to use it.

RELATED:

DIY Router Circle Jig for a Router Base Video

If you want to see how it is done, watch the video below for a step-by-step guide on how to make a router circle jig addon for a multi-purpose router jig.

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Circle Jig for Router Video
Router Circle Jig Plans
The Material you will need
General Questions
1. What are the benefits of a DIY router circle jig?
2. What type of router bit should I use to cut circles with my router jig?
How to Make a Router Circle Jig Addon for a Multi-Function Router Base
1. Step 1: Prepare the router base
2. Step 2: Make the Circle Extendable Arm
3. Step 3: Make the Slider
4. Step 4: Attach the Circle Arm to the Base
5. Step 5: Attach the Self-adhesive Scale Ruler
How to Cut a Circle in Wood with a Router Circle Jig Addon
Woodworking Jigs Used

*Safety is your responsibility. Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first!

Router Circle Jig Plans for a Multi-Purpose Router Base

Download the Router Circle Jig Plans here

Download plans here

What you'll need to make a Router Circle Cutting Jig Addon

Multi-function Router Base
How to make a Multi-Function Router Base

Circle Jig Addon
Plywood 1x – 290 mm x 60 mm x 6,5 mm
MDF 1x – 250 mm x 60 mm x 5 mm

Check all the Tools I Use

Tools:
Trim Router – https://amzn.to/3HbQcOg
Corded Hand Drill / Drill Press – https://amzn.to/3NSA3Bo
Hand Drill – https://amzn.to/3HqLEnH
Table Saw / Proxxon Mini Table Saw – https://amzn.to/47mWiGf
Japanese Ryoba Saw – https://amzn.to/48if4Qz
One Hand Clamps – https://amzn.to/48jGxkZ
Spring Clamps – https://amzn.to/41Nuh9D
Narex Chisels – https://amzn.to/3tHNJrT
Machinist Square / Speed Square

Other:
Wood Glue – https://amzn.to/48ltKhJ
Epoxy – https://amzn.to/3tJ5R4L
Sandpaper Sheets – https://amzn.to/41OMx2p
Drill bits – 6mm – https://amzn.to/48Kaaf7
Router bits – 6mm/4mm – https://amzn.to/3NQNDVX
Self-adhesive scale ruler – https://amzn.to/3TTjGZb
Aluminum bar, Brass rod 4mm – https://amzn.to/47s0eWc
Wing nuts, Square nuts, Washers, M6 bolts – https://amzn.to/41PodgQ

We may earn an affiliate commission when you buy something through our retail links. As an Amazon Associate AllFlavor Workshop earns from qualifying purchases.

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What are the benefits of a DIY router circle jig?

Increased precision: A router circle jig allows you to cut precise circles of varying sizes with ease. This precision is especially helpful for projects that require a specific size or shape.
Clean edges: The router’s blade is designed to make smooth, clean cuts that leave the edges of the circle looking professional and polished. This makes it a great tool for woodworking projects that require clean and precise edges.
Cost-effective: Making your own router circle jig can save you money compared to buying a pre-made one from a shop. With readily available materials like plywood and MDF, you can create a high-quality jig that is customized to your needs.
Versatility: With a router circle jig, you can cut circles of different sizes. You can use it to make decorative wooden pieces, cut holes in panels or boards, or create circular patterns.
Accuracy: The embedded scale ruler on the jig ensures that you can set the diameter of the circle you want to cut with precision. This means that you can create circles that are perfectly round and of the exact size that you need.

What type of router bit should I use to cut circles with my router jig?

When it comes to cutting circles with a router jig, the type of router bit you use can make a big difference. Here are two types of router bits that are commonly used for this purpose:

Straight bits: These bits have a flat bottom and are perfect for cutting circles with a consistent diameter. They come in a range of sizes, so you can easily choose the right one for your project. The benefits of using straight bits are their affordability, versatility, and precision. You can get a good quality straight bit at a reasonable price, and it can be used for a wide variety of other woodworking tasks, too.
Spiral bits: Spiral router bits are designed to remove material more quickly and smoothly than straight bits. They have a spiraling flute that helps to eject chips and keep the bit cool during use. Spiral bits can be a good choice for cutting circles in thicker materials or when you need to make a lot of cuts quickly. The benefits of using spiral bits are their speed, efficiency, and precision. While spiral bits can be more expensive than straight bits, they can save you time and effort in the long run, making them a good investment for serious woodworkers.

Let's start building!

As previously discussed, this is an add-on for a multi-purpose router base. It is assumed that you have already constructed the multi-purpose router jig.

Making a circle-cutting jig entails making an extendable arm, which consists of a t-track, an adjustable slider, and an embedded scale ruler.

Router circle jig properties:

Material: Baltic birch plywood, MDF, self-adhesive scale ruler
Total dimensions: 290mm x 60mm x 11.5mm (11.42 inches x 2.36 inches x 0.45 inches)
Total dimensions with router base: 405mm x 140mm x 140mm (15.94 inches x 5.51 inches x 5.51 inches)
Circle diameter: from 40mm to 420mm (1.57 inches to 16.54 inches)

This woodworking project is recommended for those with some experience in woodworking.

NOTE: The attachment to the multi-purpose router base is the most crucial aspect of this project. The joint experiences a lot of pressure while cutting a circle; thus, ensure that it is tightly secured.

How to Make a Router Circle Jig Addon for a Multi-Function Router Base

To begin building the circle jig, the first step is to disassemble all the parts of the multi-function router jig, leaving only the router base.

Step 1: Prepare the router base

To prepare the base for the circle-cutting jig, start by cutting out the plywood layer from the center of the base – do not throw it away. The cut-out width should be 5 cm, and it should be on the front part of the router base where the base is wider. You can use a Ryoba saw for this step, which will ensure clean and precise cuts.

NOTE: When building the multi-function router base, it’s best to avoid gluing the plywood and MDF layers on the front part of the base. This will make it much easier to make the cut-out and separate the two layers.

Turn the router base upside down and use a machinist square and ruler marking gauge to mark the position of the screws and nuts. Then, drill a 6mm hole and cut a square hole around the hole to insert the nuts.

When fixing the nut in the hole, use epoxy and make sure the nut is flush or just slightly sunk into the surface of the base. The nut should not protrude.

Step 2: Make the Circle Extendable Arm

To begin making the arm of the circle jig, start by cutting a piece of plywood and an MDF piece. These two pieces will be attached to the router base to form the arm of the circle jig.

The dimensions of the plywood piece are 290mm x 60mm x 6.5mm (11.4 inches by 2.4 inches by 0.26 inches), and the dimensions of the MDF piece are 250mm x 60mm x 5mm (9.8 inches by 2.4 inches by 0.2 inches). There are multiple ways to cut these strips, but I personally used a Proxxon mini table saw with a fence and crosscut sled.

To make a t-track in which the runner will move, you need to cut a slot in both the plywood and MDF strips. The slot in the MDF strip should be 15mm, while the slot in the plywood strip should be 6mm.

There are various ways to cut slots in wood – you can use a jigsaw, a coping saw, or a circular saw. My preferred method is to use a router dado jig.

Glue the plywood and MDF strips together. Ensure that no glue is present in the slot. If any glue is present, clean it thoroughly.

Once the glue has cured, cut a shallow slot on the top of the arm for the self-adhesive scale ruler. The slot should be just deep enough for the ruler to sit flush with the top of the arm.

Note, that the width of the arm is 60mm, while the hole on the router base is only 50mm. To fit the arm onto the base, you’ll need to cut 5mm from each side. I used a combination of a table saw and a hand saw to do this.

NOTE: Use sandpaper to get a nice fit between the arm and the base.

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Step 3: Make the Slider

For the slider, it is better to start with a piece of plywood with dimensions wider than the final product. The final dimensions of the slider should be 120mm x 15mm x 5mm.

The slider is responsible for running in the t-track. It contains a mechanism that sets the diameter of the circle and a pivoting pin, which is used to cut the circle.

To create the fixing mechanism and the pivoting pin, you need to cut three holes in the plywood piece. The outer holes have a diameter of 4mm, while the inner hole has a diameter of 6mm. Cut a hexagon shape around the inner hole to accommodate the bolt head. After finishing the holes, cut the plywood piece to its final size.

Next, apply epoxy to the center hole and insert a bolt, ensuring it is flush with the surface. Then, apply epoxy to the outer hole and insert a brass pin, ensuring that the bolt and pin face opposite directions.

NOTE: The brass pin protrudes around 4mm from the surface of the plywood piece.

Insert the slider into the t-track, and use epoxy to secure the pin in the last hole. This pin will help you read the values on the scale ruler and adjust the circle diameter. Keep in mind that a simple pin will work just as well as a fancy one, so do not worry too much about making it too elaborate. 😉

Step 4: Attach the Circle Arm to the Base

First, cut a 15mm slot in the MDF layer of the router base to allow the slider to move closer to the router bit, enabling you to cut smaller circles.

Next, place the circle arm onto the router base and secure it with screws and washers. At this point, the arm should be firmly attached to the router base, and the slider should move smoothly along the track.

Step 5: Attach the Self-adhesive Scale Ruler

Note that this jig should be used with one size router bit only. I am using it with a 6mm router bit.

Set an arbitrary diameter on the arm and cut out a circle. Measure the diameter from the cut material (not from the circle) and tape the self-adhesive scale ruler to the right position on the circle arm. In this case, when setting the circle diameter, you will know you are cutting the outer diameter. (If you would prefer you can set the scale ruler for the inner diameter of the circle).

If you need to use your router base for other projects, you can easily detach the circle arm from it. Simply remove the screws and washers that hold the arm in place. Once you have removed the arm, you can bridge the hole on the router base with the cutout piece. This will ensure that the base is level and smooth, and ready for your next project.

How to Cut a Circle in Wood with a Router Circle Jig Addon

If you want to cut a perfect circle in wood, the router circle jig addon is a great tool to have. Here are the steps to follow:

Attach the extendable router circle cutting jig to the multi-purpose router base with screws.
Set the diameter of the circle using the scale ruler on the arm and lock the pivoting pin in position.
Drill a hole in the workpiece and insert the pivoting pin.
Start the router and slowly deepen the router bit in the workpiece.
Cut the circle by turning the router jig around the pivoting point.
Once the circle is cut, wait until the router is fully stopped before removing the circle jig.

TIPS

Don’t cut too much material at once: When using a router circle jig, it’s important to take your time and make multiple shallow passes instead of trying to cut through the entire thickness of the material in one go. This helps to avoid putting too much pressure on the router bit, which can cause it to break or leave burn marks on the wood.
Use a mat below the workpiece: Placing a mat or other protective layer underneath your workpiece can help to prevent damage to your worktable or work surface as you cut the circle. T
Use double-sided tape to fix the circle while cutting: To ensure that your circle stays in place while you’re cutting, consider using double-sided tape to secure it to the workpiece. This can help to prevent the circle from moving or shifting as you cut, which can result in a more precise and accurate cut.

Conclusion

In conclusion, the router circle cutting jig is a versatile and affordable addition to any woodworking shop. Utilizing a multi-purpose router base in combination with the router circle jig will let you cut circles of various sizes with precision and accuracy. So, get your tools, and let’s get started!

DIY Router Circle Cutting Jig

Jigs used for this project:

This post How to Make a Router Circle Jig (Multi-Function Router Base Addon) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

How to Make a Multi-Purpose Router Jig (A Step-by-Step Guide)

About the author, Lukas — Fri, 07 Apr 2023 17:50:10 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

How to Make a Multi-Purpose Router Jig (A Step-by-Step Guide)

A multi-purpose router jig is one of the most versatile woodworking jigs you can have in your workshop. What makes it so useful is that it can be adapted for a wide range of tasks — from cutting dados, grooves, and rabbets to making mortises, flattening wooden surfaces, creating custom T-tracks, and even cutting circles.

I originally built this jig as a way to make custom T-tracks and improve the versatility of my trim router. Over time, it became one of my most-used router jigs. Today, I use it regularly as the upper carriage for my router flattening jig, but it also serves as a dado jig, mortising jig, circle-cutting jig, and general-purpose router guide.

One thing I really like about this build is that it replaces several dedicated jigs while taking up very little space in the workshop. Instead of building a separate jig for every task, you can start with this router base and add simple accessories as needed.

The jig is made from Baltic birch plywood and MDF, which are two of my favorite materials for making woodworking jigs. They are strong, stable, easy to work with, and perfect for workshop projects like this.

This project is best suited for advanced beginners and intermediate woodworkers. It requires a bit more precision than some of my simpler jigs, but the result is a tool you’ll likely use for years.

If you want the more complete version of the build, I also now offer premium woodworking plans for selected workshop jigs and cutting board projects.

DIY Multi-Purpose Router Jig Video

Watch the video below to see the complete build process and some of the different ways you can use this multi-purpose router jig. I’ll show you how to build the router base, install the handles, make the guide rails, and use the jig for tasks like cutting dados, mortises, T-tracks, circles, and flattening wooden surfaces.

I appreciate every YouTube subscriber. It’s free and easy to subscribe to — just Click Here To Subscribe. Thank you!

Multi-purpose Router Jig Plans
The Material you will need
General Questions
1. What are the benefits of making a multi-purpose router jig?
How to Make a Multi-Purpose Router Jig
1. Step 1: Cut the Router Base Pieces
2. Step 2: Make the Handles
3. Step 3: Cut the MDF Router Base Desk
4. Step 4: Assemble the Router Base
5. Step 5: Attach the Handles
6. Step 6: Attach the Router to the Base
7. Step 7: Make Accessories for the Multi-Purpose Router Jig
What Can you do With a Multi-Purpose Router Jig
Woodworking jigs used for the project

*Safety is your responsibility. Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first!

Multi-Purpose Router Jig Plans

I also offer a premium version of the Multi-purpose Router Jig plans, which includes:

✔ Metric and imperial measurements
✔ Detailed materials and hardware lists
✔ Exploded views and assembly drawings
✔ Additional build information and workshop tips
✔ Improvements and other resources

Browse all my premium woodworking plans.

Download the free Multi-Purpose Router Jig Plans here

Download free plans here

What You'll Need to Build the Multi-Purpose Router Jig

Here are the materials and tools I used to build this versatile router jig.

Router Base
Plywood 1x – 300 mm x 170 mm x 6 mm
MDF/HDF 1x – 300 mm x 170 mm x 6 mm – https://amzn.to/3S7vzt4

Handles
Plywood 2x – 100 mm x 30 mm x 27 mm – https://amzn.to/3TPULp2
M6 Bolts – 30 mm – https://amzn.to/41PodgQ

Router Base Guides (Base Attachments)
MDF 2x – 230 mm x 40 mm x 16 mm

Check all the Tools I Use

Tools:
Trim Router – https://amzn.to/3HbQcOg
Drill Press – https://amzn.to/3NSA3Bo
Hand Drill – https://amzn.to/3HqLEnH
Circular Saw – https://amzn.to/4aMD0xg
Angle Grinder – https://amzn.to/48K2klD
Narex Chisels – https://amzn.to/3tHNJrT
One Hand Clamps – https://amzn.to/48jGxkZ
Spring Clamps – https://amzn.to/41Nuh9D
Japanese Ryoba Saw – https://amzn.to/48if4Qz
Center Punch – https://amzn.to/48Fq7mv
Machinist Square / Speed Square

Other:
Wood Glue – https://amzn.to/48ltKhJ
Epoxy – https://amzn.to/3tJ5R4L
Drill bits – 6mm – https://amzn.to/48Kaaf7
Router bits – 6mm – https://amzn.to/3NQNDVX
Forstner bits – 10mm – https://amzn.to/3Hd1aDb
Double-Sided Woodworking Tape – https://amzn.to/3tPMGpM
Sandpaper Sheets – https://amzn.to/41OMx2p
Spray Laquer – https://amzn.to/3RRED3J

Some of the links above are affiliate links. If you buy through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

📌 Pin this to your woodworking board so you can build this multi-purpose router jig later:

DIY Multi-Purpose Router Jig — one versatile router jig for dados, mortises, circles, T-tracks, and surface flattening.

What Are the Benefits of Making a Multi-Purpose Router Jig?

A multi-purpose router jig is useful because it replaces several dedicated router jigs with one adjustable base. Instead of building a separate jig for every task, you can use the same router base with different guides, accessories, and setups.

Here are the main benefits:

Versatility – You can use it for cutting dados, grooves, rabbets, mortises, circles, homemade T-tracks, and even flattening wooden surfaces.
Better Router Control – The larger base gives your trim router more stability, which helps reduce tipping and makes routing safer and more accurate.
Adjustable Guide Rails – The guide rails can be moved and locked in different positions, so you can adapt the jig to different workpieces and cuts.
Reusable Accessories – The T-slots allow you to attach guide rails, stops, pivot pins, and other add-ons whenever needed.
Great for Cutting Board Jigs – I also use this router base as the upper carriage for my router flattening jig, which makes it especially useful when working on cutting boards.
Small Workshop Friendly – It doesn’t take much space, and one jig can cover many routing tasks.

TIP: If you build your jigs around the same T-track system, you can reuse the same bolts, clamps, stops, and accessories across multiple projects.

Woodworking Task	Multi-Purpose Router Jig	Additional Setup Needed
Freehand Routing	✓	None
Dados & Grooves	✓	Guide Rails
Rabbets	✓	Guide Rail
Mortises	✓	Guide Rails
Homemade T-Tracks	✓	Guide Rails
Circle Cutting	✓	Pivot Attachment
Flattening Small Parts	✓	Guide Rails
Flattening Cutting Boards & Slabs	✓	Router Flattening Jig

One of the biggest advantages of a multi-purpose router jig is that a single router base can handle many different woodworking tasks simply by changing the guide rails or adding accessories.

Let's Start Building!

The multi-purpose router jig consists of three main parts: the router base, the handles, and the adjustable guide rails.

The base is made from Baltic birch plywood and MDF. Together, they create a strong and stable platform that gives the router more support and reduces tipping during cuts.

What makes this jig so useful is the integrated T-slot system. It allows you to attach guide rails, stops, pivot pins, and other accessories, turning the same router base into a jig for cutting dados, rabbets, mortises, circles, homemade T-tracks, and more.

The handles are positioned to provide good control while routing and are secured with both screws and epoxy to withstand the pressure applied during use.

Multi-Purpose Router Jig Features

Large Router Base – improves stability and control
Integrated T-Slots – supports accessories and add-ons
Adjustable Guide Rails – useful for dados, mortises, and rabbets
Expandable Design – adapts to many routing tasks
Workshop-Friendly – replaces several dedicated router jigs

NOTE: One of my favorite uses for this jig is as the upper carriage for my router flattening jig. Combined together, they make flattening cutting boards, slabs, and glued-up panels much easier.

Building the Multi-Purpose Router Jig

Step 1: Cut the Router Base Pieces

To build the router base, you will need to cut two rectangles: one from plywood and the other from MDF. The dimensions of each rectangle are 170 x 300mm. To ensure precise cuts, I used a circular saw straight edge guide. (If you have, use a table saw)

The router base is made from two identical pieces — one from Baltic birch plywood and one from MDF. Both pieces measure 300 mm × 170 mm and will later be joined together to create a strong, stable, and smooth router base.

To make the cuts, I used a circular saw together with a straight edge guide. If you have a table saw, this is a perfect opportunity to use it. The most important thing is that both pieces are identical in size and square, since they will be used together throughout the next steps of the build.

TIP: Before cutting the slots, temporarily attach the plywood and MDF pieces together using double-sided tape. This allows you to cut both pieces at the same time and ensures the slots line up perfectly afterward.

Once the base pieces are cut, you can move on to creating the T-slots and router opening.

1. Cut the T-Slots in the Base

The T-slots are what make this jig adjustable and versatile. They allow you to attach guide rails, stop blocks, pivot pins, and other accessories that transform the router base for different tasks.

Start by marking the slot locations and cutting the corners of the router base. Then rout the slots using a router and a dado jig. This is one of the most important steps of the build, so take your time and make sure the slots are straight and evenly spaced.

If you don’t have a router dado jig, a jigsaw can also be used, although the cuts may require a bit more cleanup afterward.

NOTE: Accurate T-slots are the foundation of this project. Most of the jig’s accessories rely on them, so spending extra time here will pay off later.

2. Cut the Router Opening

Next, cut the opening in the center of the plywood base. I used a circle cutting jig to make a clean opening, but a jigsaw works just as well.

The opening only needs to be large enough to provide clearance for your router bits and for the entire router base. (I have a diameter of 100mm)

TIP: Before cutting, place your router on the base and confirm that the opening is properly centered. It’s much easier to adjust the layout now than after the hole is cut.

Step 2: Make the Handles

The handles are a small part of the build, but they make a big difference when using the jig. Since routing often requires steady downward pressure and good control, the handles need to be comfortable, sturdy, and securely attached.

For this build, I made the handles from laminated plywood. I glued three plywood strips together and then shaped them into a comfortable grip. The exact shape isn’t critical — a simple handle works just as well as a decorative one. The important thing is that it feels comfortable in your hand and provides a secure grip while routing.

1. Shape the Handles

Begin by gluing three strips of plywood together, each measuring 200mm x 30mm x 27mm. Secure the strips in a wooden vise and shape them to your desired handle shape. Once complete, cut the strips in half to create two handles.

Next, drill a 6mm hole in the bottom of each handle and apply a layer of lacquer to protect and strengthen the handles while also bringing out the beauty of the plywood grain.

TIP: Round over the edges slightly. Even a small chamfer or roundover makes the handles much more comfortable during longer routing sessions.

2. Prepare the Router Base for the Handles

Next, drill the mounting holes in the router base. These holes will hold the bolts that secure the handles to the jig.

To keep the bottom of the base flat, create recesses for the bolt heads. In my build, I cut hexagonal pockets so the bolt heads would sit flush and couldn’t rotate when tightening the handles.

NOTE: Make sure the bolt heads sit completely flush with the bottom of the base. Any protrusion can affect how smoothly the jig slides across the workpiece.

One thing I like about this design is that the handles are attached using both bolts and epoxy, creating a very strong connection that easily withstands the forces generated while routing.

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Step 3: Cut the MDF Router Base Desk

Before assembling the router base, there are a few additional cuts that need to be made in the MDF layer. This piece forms the bottom of the jig and is responsible for creating the T-slot system as well as providing the mounting points for the router.

1. Create the T-Slots

The slots cut earlier in the plywood need to be enlarged in the MDF piece to create the T-slot profile. Once both layers are glued together, these enlarged slots will allow T-track bolts to slide freely while remaining captured inside the track.

You can cut the T-slots using a router, which gives the cleanest results, or a jigsaw if that’s what you have available in the workshop.

One thing I like about this setup is that I use the same T-slot dimensions across many of my projects. This allows me to reuse the same hold-down clamps, bolts, stop blocks, and other accessories from one jig to another.

TIP: Test a T-track bolt in the slot before assembly. It should slide smoothly without excessive play.

2. Cut the Router Mounting Openings

Next, cut a square opening in the center of the MDF base. This opening provides visibility around the router bit and improves chip extraction while routing.

After that, drill the four mounting holes used to attach the router to the jig. Make sure the holes are positioned accurately according to your router base.

NOTE: The mounting bolt heads should sit flush with the surface of the MDF base. Any protruding hardware can interfere with the workpiece or affect how smoothly the jig slides.

One advantage of the larger square opening is that it provides better visibility than a small circular hole, making it easier to see your layout lines and monitor the cut while routing.

Step 4: Assemble the Router Base

Now it’s time to bring the two base pieces together and create the finished router base.

Start by inserting the mounting bolts into the recessed pockets in the plywood base. I secured the bolt heads with epoxy to prevent them from spinning when tightening the router or accessories later. This also helps keep everything permanently aligned.

Once the epoxy has cured, apply wood glue to the MDF base and carefully align it with the plywood piece. Make sure the edges, T-slots, and center openings line up properly before clamping everything together.

Take a few moments to check that the assembly remains flat while the glue dries. A flat base is important because the jig needs to slide smoothly and consistently across the workpiece.

TIP: Use several clamps or add weight evenly across the surface during glue-up. This helps create a strong bond and prevents gaps between the two layers.

NOTE: Double-check that no glue squeezes into the T-slots. Any dried glue inside the tracks can interfere with bolts and accessories later on.

At this point, the router base is complete and you can move on to attaching the handles.

Step 5: Attach the Handles

Start by applying a small amount of epoxy to the mounting bolts and inside the handle holes. Then slide the handles onto the bolts and position them correctly on the router base.

The handles should be placed far enough apart to provide a comfortable grip while still leaving enough room for the router body in the center. Once installed, tighten everything securely and allow the epoxy to cure.

I decided to use both bolts and epoxy for attaching the handles. Routing puts a surprising amount of force on the handles, especially when flattening surfaces or making deeper cuts, so I wanted the connection to be as strong as possible.

TIP: Before the epoxy cures, hold the jig and test the handle position. Small adjustments now can make the jig much more comfortable to use later.

NOTE: The handles should feel solid with no movement or flex. A secure handle connection improves both control and safety when routing.

Step 6: Attach the Router to the Base

The final step is attaching the trim router to the completed base. Once installed, the jig is ready to be used for a wide range of routing tasks.

Start by turning the router base upside down and positioning the router over the mounting holes. The router should sit centered in the opening, providing enough clearance for the router bit while still leaving good visibility of the cutting area.

Insert the mounting screws through the base and secure the router in place. Before tightening everything fully, check that the router is properly aligned and that the bit is centered in the opening.

One thing I like about this design is that it can be adapted to different routers. Depending on the router model, you may need to adjust the mounting hole pattern or drill additional holes in the base.

NOTE: Make sure all mounting screws are tightened securely. Any movement between the router and the base can affect accuracy and lead to inconsistent cuts.

At this point, the multi-purpose router jig is fully assembled and ready for accessories, guide rails, and routing operations.

Adding Guide Rails and Accessories

The multi-purpose router jig can be used on its own, but its real strength comes from the accessories that can be attached to the integrated T-slots.

The simplest accessories are two adjustable guide rails. They help guide the router for cutting dados, grooves, rabbets, mortises, and homemade T-tracks. The same rails can also be used when flattening smaller workpieces.

To make them, cut two identical MDF strips measuring 230 mm × 40 mm × 16 mm and add a slot in each strip for a T-track bolt. The rails can then be attached to the router base using T-track bolts and wing nuts.

Because the rails are adjustable, you can position them differently depending on the task. In some cases you may use a single rail, while other operations benefit from using both rails together.

TIP: Build your accessories around the same T-slot system. This allows you to reuse bolts, clamps, stops, and other hardware across multiple jigs.

What Can You Do With a Multi-Purpose Router Jig?

This is where the multi-purpose router jig really shines. By adjusting the guide rails or adding simple accessories, the same router base can be used for a wide variety of woodworking tasks.

I originally built this jig to make custom T-tracks, but over time it became one of my most-used router jigs. Today I use it for everything from cutting dados and mortises to flattening surfaces and making circle cuts.

One thing I like most about this design is that it grows with your workshop. You can start with the basic router base and gradually add accessories as new projects require them.

1. Freehand Routing

The multi-purpose router jig can be used on its own without any guide rails or accessories attached. The larger base provides more stability and support than the original router base, making it easier to control the router during freehand cuts.

This is especially useful when working near edges, routing narrow parts, or flattening small areas where a standard trim router base might feel unstable.

I often use the jig in this configuration for quick routing tasks where setting up guide rails would take longer than the cut itself.

TIP: The larger base helps reduce router tipping and gives you better visibility and control while routing.

2. Cutting Dados, Grooves, and Rabbets

This is one of my favorite ways to use the multi-purpose router jig. By attaching one or both guide rails, the router can be guided accurately along the workpiece, making it easy to cut dados, grooves, and rabbets with consistent results.

For edge cuts such as rabbets, a single guide rail is often enough. For dados and grooves in the middle of a workpiece, both guide rails can be used to keep the router perfectly aligned throughout the cut.

This setup works especially well for longer boards and panels where maintaining a straight cut is important. Simply adjust the guide rails to the required position, set the cutting depth, and make several shallow passes until you reach the final depth.

I often use this setup when building workshop jigs, cabinets, and cutting board accessories where accurate joinery is important.

👉 RELATED: Router Jig for Cutting Dados and Slots

TIP: Take multiple shallow passes instead of removing all the material at once. The cuts will be cleaner, the router will work more efficiently, and you’ll have better control throughout the cut.

NOTE: If you need to cut wider dados, make one pass, adjust the guide rail position slightly, and make additional passes until you reach the desired width.

3. Making Homemade T-tracks and T-slots

One of the reasons I originally built this jig was to make custom T-tracks and T-slots for my woodworking projects. Since the guide rails allow you to cut accurate and repeatable dados, creating homemade T-tracks becomes surprisingly easy.

The process starts by routing the center slot where the T-track bolt will slide. Once that is done, route the outer grooves and glue thin strips of wood on top. Together, the center slot and the wooden strips form a simple but very effective T-track system.

I use this approach in many of my workshop jigs because it is affordable, customizable, and allows me to keep a consistent T-track standard across different projects.

👉 RELATED: How to make a custom T-track system

TIP: Make sure the wooden strips are perfectly flush with the workpiece surface. Even a small lip can interfere with accessories and make bolts harder to slide.

NOTE: Before gluing the strips permanently, test the fit with a T-track bolt. The bolt should slide freely along the entire length of the track.

4. Cutting Mortises

The multi-purpose router jig can also be used for cutting mortises. By adjusting the guide rails around the workpiece, the router is guided along a controlled path, making it easy to create straight and consistent mortises.

Depending on the workpiece and the size of the mortise, you can use one or both guide rails. The rails help keep the router stable and prevent it from drifting away from the layout lines during the cut.

To cut a mortise, position the guide rails around the workpiece, set the cutting depth, and make multiple shallow passes until you reach the final depth. This method works particularly well for furniture parts, frame construction, and other joinery projects.

TIP: Make several shallow passes instead of one deep cut. This reduces stress on the router bit and results in cleaner mortise walls.

NOTE: Before routing, mark the mortise boundaries clearly on the workpiece. This makes it easier to stop the cut at the correct location and avoid overshooting the layout lines.

5. Flattening Wooden Surfaces

One of my favorite ways to use this multi-purpose router jig is for flattening wooden surfaces. By attaching the guide rails and using a surfacing bit, you can remove high spots and create a flat reference surface on a workpiece.

This setup works especially well for smaller projects such as cutting boards, handles, serving trays, and glued-up panels. The guide rails keep the router stable while the larger base helps distribute pressure evenly across the surface.

For larger workpieces, I use this router base as the upper carriage of my router slab flattening jig. Combined together, the two jigs make it possible to flatten cutting boards, slabs, and other wide panels that would be difficult to process with standard workshop tools.

👉 RELATED: Router Slab Flattening Jig

To flatten a workpiece, secure it firmly to a flat surface, adjust the guide rails to fit the width, set the cutting depth, and make overlapping passes across the surface. Continue until the entire face is flat and consistent.

TIP: Use a surfacing bit and take light passes. Removing too much material at once can leave a rougher surface and place unnecessary strain on the router.

NOTE: Make sure the workpiece is securely fixed before routing. Any movement during flattening will affect the final result.

6. Cutting Circles in Wood

Another useful application of this jig is cutting circles. By adding a simple pivoting attachment, the router base can be transformed into a circle-cutting jig capable of producing accurate circles of different diameters.

There are two ways to do this. The first uses a pivot pin placed directly in the workpiece, while the second uses a separate pivoting attachment that allows you to cut circles without drilling into the finished piece.

For occasional circle cuts, I typically use a simple pivot setup attached to the router base. For projects that require frequent circle cutting or precise diameter adjustments, I prefer using a dedicated circle-cutting jig.

This method works well for making round tabletops, signs, trays, templates, and other circular woodworking projects.

👉 RELATED: Router Circle Cutting Jig

TIP: Make multiple shallow passes when cutting circles, especially in thicker material. The cut will be cleaner and easier to control.

NOTE: Before starting the cut, rotate the router around the pivot point by hand to make sure nothing interferes with the travel path.

Why This Is One of My Most-Used Router Jigs

Over the years, I’ve built quite a few router jigs, but this one remains one of the most useful in my workshop. The main reason is its versatility. Instead of building a separate jig for every routing task, I can use the same router base and simply change the guide rails or accessories.

I regularly use it for cutting dados, rabbets, mortises, homemade T-tracks, and flattening smaller workpieces. It also serves as the upper carriage for my router slab flattening jig, making it an important part of my cutting board workflow.

Another thing I like is that it follows the same T-track system I use in many of my other jigs. This allows me to reuse the same bolts, clamps, stops, and accessories across multiple projects, making the entire workshop setup more flexible.

TIP: If you’re building several woodworking jigs, try to standardize your T-track dimensions. Being able to reuse hardware between projects saves both time and money.

Wrap-Up: Why a Multi-Purpose Router Jig Is Worth Building

A multi-purpose router jig is one of those workshop projects that keeps proving its value long after it’s finished. What started as a simple router base quickly became one of the most versatile jigs in my workshop.

What I like most about this design is that it can replace several dedicated jigs. With a few guide rails and simple accessories, the same base can be used for cutting dados, grooves, rabbets, mortises, circles, homemade T-tracks, and flattening wooden surfaces. Instead of building a separate jig for each task, you can build one platform and adapt it as your workshop grows.

I also use this jig regularly as the upper carriage for my router slab flattening jig. Combined together, they make flattening cutting boards, slabs, serving trays, and glued-up panels much easier. For that reason alone, this has become one of the most important router jigs in my cutting board workflow.

Another advantage is that the jig uses the same T-slot system found in many of my other projects. This allows me to reuse the same clamps, bolts, stop blocks, and accessories across multiple jigs, making the entire workshop setup more efficient.

If I were building my workshop from scratch again, this would definitely be one of the first router jigs I would make. It’s compact, versatile, affordable, and useful for a surprising number of woodworking tasks.

👉 If you’re building cutting boards, don’t miss my guide on Best Jigs for Making Cutting Boards. Many of the jigs in that guide work perfectly alongside this router jig, and if you want the more complete version of the builds, you can also browse my woodworking plans page.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a multi-purpose router jig used for?

A multi-purpose router jig can be used for a variety of woodworking tasks, including cutting dados, grooves, rabbets, mortises, circles, homemade T-tracks, and flattening wooden surfaces. By changing the guide rails or adding accessories, the same router base can be adapted for different projects.

Can I use any trim router with this jig?

Yes. The design can be adapted to fit most trim routers by adjusting the mounting hole pattern. Before drilling the base, verify the mounting dimensions of your router.

Is this a good project for beginners?

This project is best suited for advanced beginners and intermediate woodworkers. The build requires accurate layout work and router cuts, but the construction itself is straightforward and can be completed in a weekend.

Can this jig be used for flattening cutting boards?

Absolutely. The jig works well for flattening smaller cutting boards on its own and can also be used as the upper carriage of a router slab flattening jig for larger boards and panels.

Do I need the guide rails for every operation?

No. The router base can be used on its own for freehand routing. The guide rails are mainly used when cutting dados, grooves, mortises, T-tracks, or flattening surfaces.

Can I add more accessories to this router jig?

Yes. The integrated T-slots allow you to attach guide rails, stop blocks, pivot pins, fences, and other accessories. This is what makes the jig so versatile and adaptable.

Related Woodworking Jigs and Workshop Projects

This post How to Make a Multi-Purpose Router Jig (A Step-by-Step Guide) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

How to Make a Router Table Spline Jig: Step-by-Step Guide

About the author, Lukas — Tue, 27 Dec 2022 11:32:30 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

How to Make a Router Table Spline Jig: Step-by-Step Guide

When making a wooden box, picture frame, or any project with mitered corners, adding splines is a great way to strengthen the joint and make the corner look much nicer. The spline reinforces the miter, adds more glue surface, and also creates a small decorative detail that can really stand out.

There are several ways to cut miter splines. You can do it with hand tools, on a table saw with a spline jig, or on a router table. For this build, I made a router table spline jig that works as an add-on to my benchtop router table.

The jig slides over the router table using wooden guide rails and holds the workpiece at 45 degrees while the router bit cuts the spline groove. This makes the cuts repeatable, cleaner, and much easier to control compared to trying to hold the workpiece by hand.

This build is made from MDF, Baltic birch plywood, and a few simple hardware pieces. It is not a complicated jig, but accuracy matters — especially when setting the sliding base and aligning the 45-degree supports.

In this article, I’ll show you how to make a router table spline jig step by step, how to set it up, and how to use it to cut clean miter splines. I also have downloadable plans available if you want the dimensions and build details in a cleaner format while working in the shop.

This jig is part of my small router table system, together with the benchtop router table, router table tenon jig, and router table box joint jig.

DIY Router Table Spline Jig Video

If you want to see the full build process, watch the video below. I show how I make the sliding base, build the 45-degree supports, add the stoppers, and test the jig by cutting spline grooves on the router table.

If you enjoy the video, I’d really appreciate it if you subscribed to my YouTube channel. It helps me keep creating more woodworking jigs, router table add-ons, and step-by-step build guides.

Router Table Spline Jig Plans
Materials and Tools
Quick Build Overview
Before You Start
1. What is a spline in woodworking?
2. What are the different ways of cutting a miter spline?
3. What router bit for cutting spline grooves?
How to Make a Router Table Spline Jig
1. Step 1: Build the Sliding Base
2. Step 2: Build the 45-Degree Spline Cradle
3. Step 3: Attach the Cradle to the Sliding Base
4. Step 4: Cut the Kerf in the Base
5. Step 5: Build the Adjustable Stoppers
How to Set up and Use a Spline Jig for a Router Table
My Take
FAQ
Woodworking Jigs used for the project

*Safety is your responsibility. Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first!

Router Table Spline Jig Plans

I also offer a premium version of the Router Table Spline Jig plans, which includes:

Browse all my premium woodworking plans.

Download the Router Table Spline Jig Plans here

Download plans here

Materials and Tools

Before starting the build, prepare the materials and tools for the router table spline jig. This jig is mainly made from thin MDF, Baltic birch plywood, spruce guide strips, and a few bolts and wing nuts for the adjustable stoppers.

I built this version as an add-on for my benchtop router table, so measure your own router table first and adjust the sliding base if needed.

Router Spline Jig Base

MDF baseboard – 470 mm x 160 mm x 5 mm
Spruce wood strips – 2x (220 mm x 28 mm x 18 mm)
Beechwood Strip – 260 mm x 7 mm x 6 mm

Spline Jig

MDF – 2x (300 mm x 120 mm x 8 mm)
Plywood – 250 mm x 35 mm x 6 mm
Plywood triangles – 2x (60 mm x 60 mm x 12 mm)
Plywood triangles – 2x (35 mm x 35 mm x 12 mm)
DIY T-track bolts

Spline Jig Stoppers

Plywood – 4x (40 mm x 100 mm x 12 mm) – https://amzn.to/3TPULp2
Plywood – 2x (28 mm x 40 mm x 12 mm)

Tools:

Trim Router – https://amzn.to/3HbQcOg
Table Saw / Proxxon Mini table – https://amzn.to/47mWiGf
Ryoba Japanese Saw – https://amzn.to/48if4Qz
Cordless Hand Drill – https://amzn.to/3HqLEnH
Corded Hand Drill / Drill Press – https://amzn.to/3NSA3Bo
Machinist Square / Speed Square
One Hand Clamps – https://amzn.to/48jGxkZ
Spring Clamps – https://amzn.to/41Nuh9D
F-Clamps – https://amzn.to/48ArzY1

Other:

Wood Glue – https://amzn.to/48ltKhJ
Forstner bits – https://amzn.to/3Hd1aDb
Drill Bits – https://amzn.to/48Kaaf7
Straight router bit – https://amzn.to/47prNQi
Spiral bit – https://amzn.to/48pJJv9
M6 Bolts, Washers, Wing nuts, Wood Screws – https://amzn.to/41PodgQ

Check all the Tools I Use

Disclosure: Some of the links above are affiliate links. If you purchase through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thanks for supporting AllFlavor Workshop.

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Router table spline jig for cutting clean miter splines in boxes, frames, and other mitered woodworking projects.

Quick Build Overview

Here is a quick overview of the router table spline jig before we get into the step-by-step build. The jig is simple in principle, but accuracy matters because it needs to slide smoothly on the router table and hold the workpiece at the correct angle.

Item	Details
Project	Router table spline jig
Main use	Cutting miter spline grooves in boxes, frames, and other mitered projects
Router table type	Built as an add-on for a benchtop router table
Finished size	About 470 × 220 × 110 mm
Main material	MDF, Baltic birch plywood, spruce guide strips
Router bit	Designed for small straight or spiral bits; this build uses a 6 mm bit
Difficulty	Beginner to intermediate
Best for	Mitered boxes, picture frames, decorative corner splines, and repeatable spline cuts

Before You Start: Splines, Router Bits, and Miter Joints

Before building the jig, it helps to understand what a spline does and why this jig is useful. A router table spline jig is made for cutting clean, repeatable grooves across mitered corners, usually on boxes, frames, and similar projects.

What Is a Spline in Woodworking?

A spline is a thin strip of wood that is glued into a matching slot or groove. In mitered corners, the spline adds extra glue surface and helps reinforce the joint.

Splines are not only functional — they can also be decorative. If you use a contrasting wood, the spline becomes a nice visual detail and makes the corner stand out.

What Are the Different Ways to Cut Miter Splines?

There are several ways to cut miter splines. You can cut them by hand using a saw and chisel, use a table saw with a spline jig, or cut them on a router table with a router table spline jig.

The router table method works well because the jig holds the workpiece at 45 degrees and slides over the router bit. This makes the cuts more repeatable and easier to control, especially when you want all splines to line up the same way.

What Router Bit Should I Use for Spline Grooves?

For cutting spline grooves on a router table, a straight router bit or a spiral bit works well. I used a 6 mm router bit for this build.

A straight bit is simple, affordable, and works fine for most spline grooves. A spiral bit usually gives a cleaner cut and better chip removal, but it is more expensive.

If you are just starting out, a straight router bit is a good option. You can also use painter’s tape on the workpiece to help reduce tear-out and keep the cut cleaner.

Let’s Start Building

The router table spline jig consists of two main parts: the sliding base and the 45-degree spline jig body.

The sliding base fits over the benchtop router table and lets the jig move forward and backward across the router bit. The spline jig body sits on top of the base and holds the workpiece at 45 degrees while cutting the spline groove.

I built this jig from MDF, Baltic birch plywood, and spruce guide strips. The finished size is about 470 × 220 × 110 mm, but the exact dimensions depend on your router table. Before you start cutting parts, measure your own router table and adjust the sliding base so it fits snugly.

The jig should slide smoothly, but it should not wobble. That fit is important because it affects how clean and repeatable the spline cuts will be.

This version is made for my clamp-on benchtop router table and a 6 mm router bit, but the same idea can be adapted to other router tables as well.

How to Make a Router Table Spline Jig

Step 1: Build the Sliding Base

Start by measuring your router table first. My benchtop router table is 400 × 300 mm, so I made the sliding base slightly longer to leave a small overhang on both sides.

Cut the MDF baseboard to size. For my jig, the base is 470 × 160 × 5 mm. Then cut two small cutouts on the sides of the base. These allow the jig to slide farther forward over the router bit and give you a little more usable cutting travel.

Next, cut two spruce guide strips and glue them to the underside of the MDF base. These strips wrap around the sides of the router table and keep the jig aligned while it slides forward and backward.

The easiest way to position them is to use the router table itself as a reference. Turn the router table upside down, align the MDF base on top, apply glue to the guide strips, and clamp everything in place. Once the glue dries, secure the strips with screws.

Finally, drill a 20 mm hole in the center of the base, aligned with the router bit. This opening gives the bit room to pass through when cutting the spline grooves.

💡TIP: The sliding base should move smoothly, but it should not wobble. If it feels too tight, sand the inside of the guide strips lightly. If it has a little play, add painter’s tape to the strips until the fit improves.

NOTE: Measure your own router table before cutting the base. The dimensions in this build are made for my benchtop router table, but the same idea can be adjusted to fit other router tables.

Step 2: Build the 45-Degree Spline Cradle

Now it’s time to build the part of the jig that holds the workpiece at 45 degrees. I like to think of this as the spline cradle — two angled supports that form a V-shape and keep the box or frame corner steady while cutting the spline groove.

Start by cutting two MDF boards to size. These will become the front and back parts of the spline jig. On each piece, cut one long edge at a 45-degree angle. When both parts are mounted on the sliding base, these angled edges will face each other and support the mitered corner.

The back part of the jig also gets a small T-track slot. This is useful for adding adjustable stoppers later, so each spline cut can be made in the same position. I cut the slot with my router dado jig, but you can use any accurate method that gives you a straight, clean slot.

To keep the T-track bolt from falling out, add a thin plywood strip over the slot. Cut a shallow rabbet on one side of the strip, remove the center section, and glue it to the MDF board. The opening makes it easier to insert and remove the bolt when needed.

Next, cut the plywood support triangles and glue them above the 45-degree edges. These triangles strengthen the cradle and help keep the workpiece supported during the cut.

Repeat the same basic process for the front part of the jig, but without the T-track. Once both parts are done, you should have two matching cradle pieces ready to mount on the sliding base.

💡TIP: Make sure the 45-degree edges are clean and accurate. These surfaces hold the workpiece during the cut, so any error here can affect the spline position.

NOTE: Do not place the support triangles in the router bit path. Leave enough clearance in the center so the bit can pass through safely when cutting the kerf later.

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Step 3: Attach the Cradle to the Sliding Base

Now that the front and back cradle pieces are ready, glue them to the sliding base. This is one of the most important parts of the build because the cradle needs to be aligned correctly with the router bit.

Place both 45-degree supports over the center hole in the sliding base. The angled faces should point toward each other and form a V-shape that will hold the mitered corner during the cut.

Before gluing, make sure that:

both cradle pieces are centered over the router bit opening
the angled faces line up evenly
the pieces are square to the sliding base
there is enough clearance for the router bit path

I like to draw a reference line on the base first and use a square to keep everything aligned. Once the position looks right, apply glue to the bottom of the cradle pieces and clamp them in place.

Let the glue dry fully before moving to the next step. The alignment here affects how clean and centered the spline grooves will be, so take your time.

NOTE: The cradle does not need to be complicated, but it needs to be aligned well. If the front and back supports are slightly twisted or uneven, the workpiece may not sit correctly during the cut.

Step 4: Cut the Kerf in the Base

Once the glue is fully dry, mount the spline jig on the router table and cut the first kerf in the base. This kerf shows the exact router bit path and becomes your visual reference when positioning the workpiece later.

I used a 6 mm router bit for this jig. Raise the bit slowly and make the cut by sliding the jig forward over the router table. Don’t rush this step — the jig should move smoothly and stay firmly guided by the wooden strips underneath.

After cutting the kerf, you can also mark both sides of the cut with a pencil or a thin marker. This makes the cutting line easier to see when setting up spline cuts, especially when the workpiece covers part of the base.

At this point, the jig already shows where the spline groove will be cut. The next step is to add adjustable stoppers, which will help you make repeated spline cuts in the same position.

💡TIP: Make the kerf slowly and keep steady pressure on the jig while sliding it over the router bit. A smooth first cut gives you a clean reference line for later setup.

NOTE: Use the same router bit size you plan to use for cutting the spline grooves. If you change the bit size later, the kerf reference will no longer match exactly.

Step 5: Build the Adjustable Stoppers

The last part of the jig is the adjustable stoppers. These are simple plywood blocks that slide in the cradle (attached through the T-track) and help you cut each spline groove in the same position.

Cut the plywood pieces for the stoppers and glue them together. I used two layers so the stopper has enough surface to register against the workpiece and stay stable during setup.

Once the glue dries, drill a 6 mm hole through each stopper for the T-track bolt. The bolt passes through the stopper and locks it in place with a washer and wing nut.

The stoppers are especially useful when cutting splines on multiple corners. Set the position once, tighten the wing nuts, and then repeat the same cut on each corner without measuring again.

💡TIP: Make the stopper faces square and smooth. The workpiece will register against them, so a clean edge helps keep the spline position repeatable.

NOTE: The stoppers are adjustable, so you can change the spline position depending on the size of the box, frame, or mitered project you are working on.

Below is a picture of the finished router spline jig.

How to Set Up and Use a Router Table Spline Jig

Once the jig is finished, setting it up is quite simple. The main idea is to mount the jig on the router table, set the stoppers, hold the workpiece securely, and slide the jig over the router bit to cut the spline groove.

Use all necessary safety equipment, especially safety glasses. Chips can fly out quickly when cutting splines on the router table.

Mount the spline jig on the router table
Place the jig over the router table and make sure the sliding base moves smoothly without wobbling.
Choose the router bit
Install the router bit you want to use for the spline groove. I used a 6 mm bit for this jig.
Apply painter’s tape to the workpiece
Add painter’s tape where the router bit will exit the cut. This helps reduce tear-out and keeps the spline groove cleaner.
Place the workpiece in the jig
Set the mitered corner into the 45-degree cradle. The corner should sit firmly in the V-shape and stay flat against the supports.
Set the stoppers
Slide the adjustable stoppers into position and tighten the wing nuts. This lets you repeat the same spline position on every corner.
Secure the workpiece
Use a hold-down clamp to keep the piece from shifting during the cut. Do not rely on your hands alone, especially with smaller boxes or frames.
Make the cut slowly
Slide the jig forward over the router bit in a controlled motion. Take your time and keep steady pressure on the jig.
Repeat the cuts
Rotate the workpiece and repeat the process on the remaining corners. Since the stoppers are already set, each spline groove should line up in the same position

TIP: Painter’s tape makes a big difference when cutting across mitered corners. Place it directly over the exit side of the cut to reduce blowout. Always keep the workpiece clamped or held down securely. Small frames and boxes can shift easily, and your hands should stay away from the router bit path.

My Take

I really like this router table spline jig because it is a simple add-on that makes the benchtop router table much more useful.

If you make boxes, picture frames, or other mitered projects, splines are a great way to strengthen the corners and add a nice decorative detail at the same time. With this jig, the process becomes much more repeatable — set the stoppers, place the workpiece in the cradle, and make the same cut on each corner.

What I also like is that the jig does not take much space. It slides over the router table when I need it, and when I’m done, I can store it flat with the rest of my router table accessories.

The most important part of the build is accuracy. The sliding base should fit the router table without wobbling, and the 45-degree cradle should be aligned properly. Once those parts are right, the jig is easy to set up and use.

This spline jig is part of my small router table system, together with the benchtop router table, router table tenon jig, and router table box joint jig. If you are building a similar setup, this is a nice add-on to have in the workshop.

If you want to build this jig, you can follow the steps in this article and check my woodworking plans page for current and upcoming plans. I’m also preparing more detailed paid plans for my router table add-ons, so the build will be easier to follow directly from the workshop.

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Spline jig for router table used to cut clean miter spline grooves and reinforce mitered corners.

FAQ

What is a router table spline jig used for?

A router table spline jig is used to cut spline grooves across mitered corners. It is useful for boxes, picture frames, and other mitered projects where you want to strengthen the joint and add a decorative detail.

Can you cut miter splines on a router table?

Yes, you can cut miter splines on a router table with a spline jig. The jig holds the workpiece at 45 degrees and slides over the router bit, which makes the cuts repeatable and easier to control.

What router bit should I use for cutting spline grooves?

A straight router bit or spiral router bit works well for cutting spline grooves. I used a 6 mm bit for this jig. A straight bit is affordable and works fine, while a spiral bit usually gives a cleaner cut with less tear-out.

Are splines only decorative?

No. Splines are both decorative and functional. They reinforce the mitered corner by adding more glue surface, and if you use contrasting wood, they also create a nice visual detail.

Is this router table spline jig beginner-friendly?

Yes, but accuracy matters. The build is simple in principle, but the sliding base should fit the router table without wobbling, and the 45-degree cradle should be aligned well. Once built correctly, the jig is easy to set up and use.

Jigs used for this project:

This post How to Make a Router Table Spline Jig: Step-by-Step Guide first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

How To Make a Tenon Jig for a Router Table

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 01 Dec 2022 07:37:15 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

How To Make a Tenon Jig for a Router Table

The mortise and tenon joint is one of the strongest and most used joints in woodworking. The joint provides a robust and tight connection that may last for hundreds of years. Its uses are wide-ranging from making tables and chairs to doors, frames, and cabinets.

There are multiple ways how to make a tenon. You can cut it on a table saw using a crosscut sled or a dedicated tenoning jig, you can make it the traditional way using a chisel and a saw, or you can use a router together with a tenon jig. In this article, you will learn how to make a tenon jig for a router table.

The tenoning jig built in this article is designed for a benchtop router table. It is mainly intended for crosscutting and making tenons on narrow wood pieces. The narrower the wood piece, the harder it is to keep the stock perpendicular to the router table fence. The tenoning jig holds the stock firmly at a 90-degree angle to the fence and the router bit ensuring the cuts are clean, square, and precise.

The jig works as a tenon sled for a router table. It can slide in a miter slot or can be used against the side of the table as a reference. To achieve the best results, it is good to use a sacrificial block to prevent wood tearing and blowout.

The build is made of Baltic birch plywood and HDF. All the materials are easily available.

Read on to find out how to make a tenon sled for a router table, how to set it up, and how to use it.

RELATED:

DIY Router Table Tenon Jig Video

If you want to build a router tenon sled, watch the video below with a step-by-step guide and detailed steps.

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Router Tenon Jig Video
Router Table Tenon Jig Plans
The Material you will need
Frequently Asked Questions
1. What is the mortise and what is the tenon?
2. What are the different ways of creating a mortise and tenon?
3. How do you make a tenon with a router?
How to Make a Tenon Jig for a Router Table
1. Step 1: Make the Sled
2. Step 2: Make the Back Fence
3. Step 3: Make the Front Fence
4. Step 4: Make a Hold-Down Clamp
How to Use a Tenoning Jig for a Router Table
Woodworking Jigs used for the project

*Safety is your responsibility. Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first!

Router Table Tenon Jig Plans

Download the Router Table Tenon Jig Plans here

Download plans here

What you'll need to make a Router Table Tenon Sled

Router Tenon Jig Base
HDF base board – 290 mm x 170 mm x 5 mm
Spruce wood Strip – 260 mm x 18 mm x 28 mm
Beechwood Strip – 260 mm x 7 mm x 6 mm

Tenon Jig Back Fence
Plywood – 45 mm x 170 mm x 12 mm – – https://amzn.to/3TPULp2
HDF Strips – 8 mm x 170 mm x 4 mm
DIY T-track bolts
DIY T-tracks
DIY Hold-down Clamp

Tenon Jig Front Fence
Aluminum flat bar- 70 mm x 30 mm x 2 mm
DIY T-track bolt

Tools:
Circular Saw – https://amzn.to/4aMD0xg
Trim Router – https://amzn.to/3HbQcOg
Hand Drill – https://amzn.to/3HqLEnH
Corded Hand Drill – https://amzn.to/3NSA3Bo
Proxxon Mini Table Saw
Angle Grinder – https://amzn.to/48K2klD
One Hand Clamps – https://amzn.to/48jGxkZ
Spring Clamps – https://amzn.to/41Nuh9D
F-Clamps – https://amzn.to/48ArzY1
Machinist Square / Speed Square

Other:
Wood Glue – https://amzn.to/48ltKhJ
Epoxy – https://amzn.to/3tJ5R4L
Straight router bit – https://amzn.to/3NQNDVX
Wood Screws, Washers, Bolts, T-nuts – https://amzn.to/41PodgQ
Threaded rod 6mm – https://amzn.to/48oo6vq

Check all the Tools I Use

We may earn an affiliate commission when you buy something through our retail links. As an Amazon Associate AllFlavor Workshop earns from qualifying purchases.

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What is the mortise and what is the tenon?

A mortise is an entrance, the hole of the joint. The tenon is the protrusion that fits into the mortise creating the joint.

What are the different ways of creating a mortise and tenon?

There are multiple ways how to create the mortise and tenon joint. Traditionally, the mortise and tenon joint is made by using hand tools such as a marking gauge, a wood chisel, a hand saw, and a mallet.

With the advent of modern electric tools, you can also make the joint using a table saw, a trim router, or a band saw. You can equip the tools with woodworking jigs that allow for repeatable cuts, thus allowing you to make the joints faster with the same quality.

How do you make a tenon with a router?

There are two main approaches to making a tenon with a router. You can either use the router as a stationary tool, such as a router table, and move the workpiece against the router, or use the router as a moving component and fix the workpiece.

Both approaches will use different types of woodworking jigs. In the first case, when the router is fixed, you can cut a tenon using a router tenon sled. In the second case, you can cut a tenon using a stationary mortise and tenoning jig.

Let's start building!

The router tenon sled consists of 3 main parts – the sled, the back fence with securing elements, and the front fence. The sled is made of HDF, the back fence of plywood, and the front fence of spruce wood.

Router Tenon Sled properties:

Material: HDF, Plywood, Spruce wood
Total dimensions: 29m x 17cm x 8,5cm
Back fence with T-tracks for additional accessories
Maximum adjustment distance of clamping width: 14cm
Can be used to cut short pieces as well as long pieces

NOTE: The base sled is made of a narrower HDF board (29m x 17cm x 0,5cm) with a custom t-track so that the maximum bit length can be used. Nevertheless, you can also make the base from a 9mm or 12mm plywood board with a standard t-track miter track.

This is a project for a beginner/advanced woodworker. Many areas require precision and increased attention to ensure an accurate and clean cut.

How to Make a Tenon Jig for a Router Table

Step 1: Make the Sled

Measure and cut the HDF base board to size (29m x 17,5cm x 0,5cm). To cut the board I used a circular saw straight edge guide. But if you have a table saw you can use a crosscut sled instead.

1. Cut the t-track

Cut a t-track in the base board. Use an adjustable router dado jig to cut an exact-width dado. Make sure the aluminum bar is flush with the base board.

NOTE: I am using a 5mm thick HDF board. That is because I want to use the maximum length of the router bit. Although this makes the build a bit more complicated. Using a thicker board would make it easier to create the t-track.

2. Attach the guiding fence

Cut 2 wooden strips and glue them to the bottom of the base. One (spruce), that runs along the edge of the router table, and the other (beech) that runs in the router table slot. Use flush head screws, if you are going to additionally secure the side guide.

Measure and attach the guides so that it extends slightly over the router bit. Once the glue dries cut off the wood excess.

NOTE: You can use any type of wood. I used the leftovers I found in the shop.

Step 2: Make the Back Fence

Glue 4 plywood strips together and make a t-track. You can easily route the slots on the router table. Make sure the front side is straight and perpendicular to the base.

Glue the back fence to the base board. Use a square to make sure it is perpendicular to the cut edge (perpendicular to the router bit).

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Step 3: Make the Front Fence

Cut the aluminum bar to size and round the edges for a better slide in the track. Make a t-track bolt and glue it to the aluminum bar with epoxy to ensure a firm connection (wood glue is not sufficient).

NOTE: Make sure the height of the bar and the bolt is lower than the height of the base board.

Cut the fence to size a drill a hole in for the t-track bolt. Mount it on the base and secure it with a wing nut.

Step 4: Make a Hold-Down Clamp

Cut a plywood piece to size, add a t-nut for attachment, a cut a slot for adjustability.

Mount the piece on the back fence using a t-track bolt and a wing nut. Run through the t-nut a threaded rod with a permanently attached wing nut at the (top) end and attach another piece of wood on the other side of the rod for pushing. You can add a non-slip mate to the bottom of the piece for better fix and security.

The push mechanism is the same as in the case of this wooden vise or this angle clamp.

Below is a picture of a finished router table tenon sled. A great jig for cutting tenons on large as well as small workpieces.

How to Use a Tenoning Jig for a Router Table

The steps provided below describe how to set up a tenon jig for a router table and how to use it. Make sure you are using all the necessary protective equipment. Especially safety glasses and a face mask. When using a router table, chips may fly away at high speeds, which can cause serious injury.

For a better understanding of how to set up and use the jig, refer to the video above.

How to use a tenon jig for a router table

Mount the tenon sled on the router table
Place the workpiece on the sled and push it against the back fence
Set the stopper to the desired position
Secure the workpiece with a hold-down clamp
Secure the workpiece with the front fence
Use the right router bit for the job
Slowly make the cut

TIP: To achieve the best result when cutting use a sacrificial piece of wood. Place it between the workpiece and the back fence. The sacrificial block will help to prevent a blowout at the back of the workpiece.

Router Table Tenon Sled Improvements

An oscillating tool such as a trim router can cause serious injury, so all safety precautions must be observed. In particular, it is necessary to protect the eyes, or possibly the entire face. Wood chips flying away from the router reach high speeds and can fly up to a distance of several meters.

You can add dust-proof plexiglass on the side of the jig right above the router bit to prevent wood chips from flying in your face. Also, you can add additional hold-down clamps to securely fix the cut piece in position.

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I hope the information shared in this blog post inspired you and now you are adding this router jig to your next builds. 😉

Homemade Tenon Jig for Router Table

Jigs used for this project:

This post How To Make a Tenon Jig for a Router Table first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

How to Make a Router Table Box Joint Jig: Step-by-Step Guide

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 10 Nov 2022 10:11:44 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

How to Make a Router Table Box Joint Jig: Step-by-Step Guide

Whether you are making a small wooden box, a kitchen tray, a drawer, or a simple storage chest, box joints are a great way to make strong and good-looking corners.

A box joint, also called a finger joint, uses a series of interlocking pins to connect two pieces of wood together. The joint gives you a lot of glue surface, which makes it strong, and it also creates a nice visible pattern on the corner.

There are several ways to cut box joints. You can use hand tools, a table saw with a box joint jig, or a router table with a router table box joint jig. For this build, I made a simple box joint jig that works as an add-on to my benchtop router table.

The jig slides over the router table using wooden guide rails and uses a stop pin to position each cut. Once the spacing is set correctly, you can cut clean and repeatable box joints without measuring every slot individually.

This build is made from HDF, Baltic birch plywood, spruce guide strips, and a small oak pin. It is not a complicated jig, but setup and accuracy matter — especially when positioning the front fence and testing the fit of the joint.

In this article, I’ll show you how to make a router table box joint jig step by step, how to set it up, and how to use it to cut clean box joint corners. I also have downloadable plans available if you want the dimensions and build details in a cleaner format while working in the shop.

This jig is part of my small router table system, together with the benchtop router table and router table spline jig.

DIY Router Table Box Joint Jig Video

If you want to see the full build process, watch the video below. I show how I make the sliding base, build the back and front fences, set the stop pin, test the box joint fit, and use the jig on the router table.

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Box Joint Jig Video
Router Table Box Joint Jig Plans
Materials and Tools
Quick Build Overview
Before You Start: Box Joints, Finger Joints, and Router Bits
1. What is the difference between a box joint and a finger joint?
2. What router bit for box joints?
How to Make a Router Table Box Joint Jig
1. Step 1: Build the Sliding Base
2. Step 2: Make the Back Fence
3. Step 3: Make the Front Fence and Stop Pin
4. Step 4: Test and Adjust the Box Joint Fit
5. Step 5: Secure the Front Fence
How to Use a Router Table Box Joint Jig
Tips When Cutting Box Joints on a Router Table
My Take
FAQ

*Safety is your responsibility. Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first!

Router Table Box Joint Jig Plans

I also offer a premium version of the Router Table Box Joint Jig plans, which includes:

Browse all my premium woodworking plans.

Download the Box Joint Jig Plans here

Download plans here

Materials and Tools

Before starting the build, prepare the materials and tools for the router table box joint jig. This jig is mainly made from HDF, Baltic birch plywood, spruce guide strips, and a small oak pin that sets the spacing for the box joints.

I built this version as an add-on for my benchtop router table, so measure your own router table first and adjust the sliding base if needed.

Box Joint Jig

Plywood – 310 mm x 100 mm x 12 mm
HDF – 480 mm x 160 mm x 5 mm
HDF – 2x (300 mm x 70 mm x 8 mm)
Spruce wood strips – 2x (280 mm x 3 mm x 18 mm)
Oak Pin

Check all the Tools I Use

Tools:

Hand Drill – https://amzn.to/3HqLEnH
Trim Router – https://amzn.to/3HbQcOg
Table Saw / Mini Table Saw – https://amzn.to/47mWiGf
One Hand Clamps – https://amzn.to/48jGxkZ
Spring Clamps – https://amzn.to/41Nuh9D
Machinist Square / Speed Square
Calipers – https://amzn.to/3H3gnqC

Other:

Wood Glue – https://amzn.to/48ltKhJ
Wood Screws, Washers, Wing nuts – https://amzn.to/41PodgQ
Straight router bit – 6mm – https://amzn.to/48nJmS1
Spiral Router Bit* – https://amzn.to/3NS9lbY

A straight router bit works fine for cutting box joints, especially if you are just starting out. A spiral bit usually gives a cleaner cut and helps reduce tear-out, but it is more expensive.

Disclosure: Some of the links above are affiliate links. If you purchase through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thanks for supporting AllFlavor Workshop.

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Router table box joint jig for cutting clean, repeatable box joints and finger joints on wooden boxes, trays, and small projects.

Quick Build Overview

Here is a quick overview of the router table box joint jig before we get into the step-by-step build. The jig is simple in principle, but the setup needs to be accurate because the stop pin controls the spacing of every box joint cut.

Item	Details
Project	Router table box joint jig
Main use	Cutting clean, repeatable box joints and finger joints
Router table type	Built as an add-on for a benchtop router table
Finished size	About 480 × 280 × 130 mm
Main material	HDF, Baltic birch plywood, spruce guide strips, oak stop pin
Router bit	Designed around a 6 mm straight router bit; spiral bit optional
Difficulty	Beginner to intermediate
Best for	Wooden boxes, trays, drawers, small chests, and decorative corner joints

Before You Start: Box Joints, Finger Joints, and Router Bits

Before building the jig, it helps to understand what a box joint is and why the setup matters. A router table box joint jig is simple in principle, but the spacing between the router bit and the stop pin controls the fit of the entire joint.

What Is the Difference Between a Box Joint and a Finger Joint?

A box joint and a finger joint are often used almost interchangeably, but there is a small difference in how people usually describe them.

A box joint is made from a series of larger, square pins and slots along the edge of two boards. It is commonly used for wooden boxes, trays, drawers, and similar projects where you want a strong corner joint with a clean pattern.
A finger joint is usually made from smaller, more delicate interlocking fingers. It is often used for joining longer pieces of wood together, especially when extending material length.

For this jig, the goal is to cut box joints on a router table, but many woodworkers will also call this type of setup a finger joint jig.

What Router Bit Should I Use for Box Joints?

For cutting box joints on a router table, a straight router bit or a spiral router bit works well. I used a 6 mm straight router bit for this jig.

A straight bit is simple, affordable, and works fine for most box joint cuts. A spiral bit usually gives a cleaner cut, removes chips better, and helps reduce tear-out, but it is more expensive.

The important thing is that the router bit size and the stop pin size need to match. If the bit is 6 mm, the stop pin should match that width so the pins and slots fit together correctly.

If you are just starting out, use a straight bit, make a few test cuts, and adjust the fence until the joint fits nicely by hand.

Let’s Start Building

The router table box joint jig works on a simple idea: the jig slides over the router table, and the stop pin controls the spacing between each cut.

The jig has three main parts: the sliding base, the back fence, and the front fence with the stop pin. The sliding base moves over the router table, the back fence supports the workpiece, and the stop pin sets the spacing for the box joints.

The most important part is the relationship between the router bit and the stop pin. If the spacing is right, the box joint should slide together by hand and hold firmly without being too tight.

I built this version for my benchtop router table and a 6 mm straight router bit. You can adapt the same idea to other router tables, but always adjust the jig around your router bit and stop pin.

How to Make a Router Table Box Joint Jig

Step 1: Build the Sliding Base

Start by measuring your router table first. My benchtop router table is 400 × 300 mm, so I made the sliding base slightly longer to leave an overhang on both sides.

Cut the HDF baseboard to size. For my jig, the base is 480 × 160 × 5 mm. The base should be long enough to slide smoothly over the router table and give you enough travel for the cut.

Next, cut two spruce guide strips and glue them to the underside of the HDF base. These strips wrap around the sides of the router table and keep the jig aligned while it slides forward and backward.

The easiest way to position the strips is to use the router table itself as a reference. Turn the router table upside down, align the HDF base, apply glue to the guide strips, and clamp everything in place. Once the glue dries, secure the strips with screws.

The base should slide easily over the router table, but it should not wobble. This fit is important because the jig needs to move straight and consistently during each cut.

💡TIP: If the base feels too tight, sand the inside of the guide strips lightly. If it has a little play, add painter’s tape to the strips until the fit improves.

NOTE: Measure your own router table before cutting the base. The dimensions in this build fit my benchtop router table, but the same idea can be adjusted to other router table sizes.

Step 2: Make the Back Fence

Now build the back fence of the box joint jig. This part supports the workpiece and keeps it square while cutting the box joint slots.

Start by gluing one HDF piece flat on the sliding base. Then glue the second HDF piece vertically on top of it to create the back fence. Use a machinist square or speed square to make sure the fence is perfectly perpendicular to the base.

Once the glue dries, mount the jig on the router table and cut a kerf in the base. Use the same router bit you plan to use for the box joints — I used a 6 mm straight router bit.

Slide the jig forward until the bit cuts through the base and reaches the back fence. This kerf shows the router bit path and will later help you position the front fence and stop pin correctly.

💡TIP: Take your time when squaring the back fence. If the fence is not perpendicular to the base, the box joint slots may not be straight.

NOTE: Cut the kerf using the same router bit size you will use for the final box joints. The bit size controls the width of each slot.

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Step 3: Make the Front Fence and Stop Pin

Now make the front fence and add the stop pin. The stop pin is what makes the jig work — after each cut, the freshly cut slot fits over the pin and spaces the next cut automatically.

Temporarily clamp the front fence to the back fence. Then slide the jig over the router bit and cut a small kerf in the front fence for the stop pin.

The stop pin should match the width of the router bit. I used a 6 mm router bit, so the pin needs to be sized to fit the 6 mm slot. The pin should also protrude enough to support different workpiece sizes — around 20 mm is enough for this jig.

Glue the pin into the slot and make sure it sits flush with the bottom of the fence. Let the glue dry fully before testing the joint.

The fit of this pin is important. If it is too loose, the workpiece can shift. If it is too tight, it will be harder to move the workpiece from cut to cut.

💡TIP: Use calipers to check the stop pin thickness. It should closely match the router bit width so the pins and slots line up correctly.

NOTE: Don’t attach the front fence permanently yet. You still need to make test cuts and adjust the fence position until the box joint fit is right.

Step 4: Test and Adjust the Box Joint Fit

Before attaching the front fence permanently, make a few test cuts. This is where you fine-tune the jig and get the box joint fit right.

Mount the front fence on the jig and place a small spacer between the stop pin and the router bit. The spacer should be the same thickness as the stop pin and the router bit width. For this jig, that means 6 mm.

Clamp the front fence in place and set the router bit height. The bit should be slightly higher than the thickness of the workpiece. This way, the pins will protrude just a little after assembly and can be sanded flush later.

Make a few test cuts on scrap wood and check how the pieces fit together. The joint should slide together by hand and hold by itself. It should not be so tight that you have to force it, and it should not be loose.

👉 If the fit is too tight, move the front fence slightly toward the router bit. If the fit is too loose, move the front fence slightly away from the router bit. Make small adjustments, test again, and repeat until the fit feels right.

💡TIP: Always test the jig on scrap wood before cutting your real project parts. A small adjustment can make a big difference in the final fit.

NOTE: A little friction is good. The joint should slide together by hand, but still hold firmly before glue.

Step 5: Secure the Front Fence

Once the box joint fit looks good, you can secure the front fence permanently.

Keep the front fence clamped in the final tested position and double-check the fit one more time. If the test joint slides together nicely by hand and holds firmly, the fence is ready to be fixed.

Attach the front fence to the back fence with screws. Take your time and make sure the fence does not shift while drilling or driving the screws. This position controls the spacing between the router bit and the stop pin, so even a small movement can affect the final fit.

After the fence is secured, make another quick test cut to confirm nothing moved. If the joint still fits well, the jig is finished and ready to use.

Optionally, you can also add simple stoppers to the router table or jig travel path. They help prevent cutting too far and make the setup more controlled.

💡TIP: Keep the front fence clamped while drilling the screw holes. This helps prevent the fence from shifting out of its tested position.

NOTE: After attaching the fence permanently, make one final test joint. It is better to catch a small movement now than when cutting parts for a real box.

Below is the finished router table box joint jig. Once the front fence is secured and the test joint fits well, the jig is ready to use.

A box joint is one of my favorite corner joints. It is strong, repeatable, and looks great on wooden boxes, trays, drawers, and small workshop projects. With this jig, cutting the joint becomes much easier because the stop pin controls the spacing for each cut.

How to Use a Router Table Box Joint Jig

Once the jig is finished and tested, using it is quite straightforward. The stop pin controls the spacing, so after the first cut you simply move the freshly cut slot onto the pin and repeat the process.

For the best result, use scrap wood first and make sure the joint fits before cutting your final project pieces.

Install the jig on the router table
Place the box joint jig over the router table and check that it slides smoothly without wobbling.
Set the router bit height
The router bit should be slightly higher than the thickness of the workpiece. This way, the pins will protrude just a little and can be sanded flush after assembly.
Make the first cut
Place the first board against the fence with its edge flush against the stop pin. Clamp the workpiece securely and make the first cut.
Move the board onto the stop pin
Place the freshly cut slot over the stop pin. This automatically spaces the next cut.
Repeat the cuts
Continue moving the board from slot to pin and cutting until you reach the end of the board.
Start the matching board
Flip the first board 180 degrees and place the slot closest to the router bit onto the stop pin. Then place the second board against the fence and tight against the first board.
Cut the matching side
Make the first cut on the second board, remove the first board, and continue the same slot-to-pin process until the second edge is finished.
Test the joint
Put both pieces together and check the fit. The joint should slide together by hand and hold firmly without being forced.
Glue and sand flush
Apply glue to the pins and slots, assemble the joint, and after the glue dries, sand the protruding pins flush with the surface.

TIP: When joining narrow pieces, make sure you have enough pins on both parts. Ideally, aim for at least two pins on each piece so the joint has enough strength.

NOTE: Always clamp the workpiece securely before cutting. Do not hold small pieces by hand close to the router bit.

Tips for Cutting Box Joints on a Router Table

Once the jig is set up correctly, cutting box joints is quite repeatable. Still, a few small details make a big difference in the final result.

Aim for a snug fit, not a forced fit
The joint should slide together by hand and hold itself. If it is too tight, there will not be enough room for glue. If it is too loose, the joint will not be as strong.
Use glue on both pieces
Apply glue to the pins and the slots so the joint bonds properly. Don’t worry if some glue squeezes out — you can clean it up before sanding.
Use the right router bit
A straight router bit works well, but a spiral router bit can give cleaner cuts and reduce tear-out. For this jig, I used a 6 mm bit.
Use painter’s tape to reduce tear-out
Place painter’s tape on the exit side of the cut. This helps keep the edges cleaner, especially when routing across the grain.
Make test cuts first
Always test the setup on scrap wood before cutting your final project pieces. Small fence adjustments can change the fit a lot.
Sand the pins flush after assembly
Let the pins protrude slightly after glue-up. Once the glue dries, sand them flush with the surface for a clean finish.

My Take

I really like this router table box joint jig because it turns a simple benchtop router table into a much more useful joinery setup.

Box joints are one of my favorite corner joints. They are strong, they look good, and once the jig is dialed in, they are quite easy to repeat. The stop pin does most of the spacing work, so you don’t need to measure every single cut.

The most important part of this build is the setup. The sliding base should move smoothly over the router table, the back fence needs to be square, and the front fence must be adjusted until the box joint fit is right. Once that is done, the jig is simple to use.

This jig is especially useful for small boxes, trays, drawers, and similar projects. It is not a big or complicated jig, but it adds a lot of value to the router table.

This box joint jig is also part of my small router table system, together with the benchtop router table, router table spline jig, and router table tenon jig. If you are building a similar setup, this is a nice add-on to have in the workshop.

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Finished router table box joint jig for making strong, clean finger joint corners in boxes, trays, drawers, and small woodworking projects.

FAQ

What is a router table box joint jig used for?

A router table box joint jig is used to cut clean and repeatable box joints or finger joints on a router table. It is useful for wooden boxes, trays, drawers, small chests, and other projects where you want strong decorative corners.

Can you cut box joints on a router table?

Yes, you can cut box joints on a router table with a box joint jig. The jig holds the workpiece against a fence and uses a stop pin to space each cut evenly. Once the jig is set correctly, you can repeat the cuts without measuring every slot.

What is the difference between a box joint and a finger joint?

A box joint usually has larger square pins and slots and is commonly used for boxes, drawers, and similar projects. A finger joint often refers to smaller interlocking fingers used for joining longer pieces of wood together. In woodworking, the terms are sometimes used interchangeably.

What router bit should I use for box joints?

A straight router bit or a spiral router bit works well for box joints. I used a 6 mm straight router bit for this jig. A spiral bit usually gives a cleaner cut and helps reduce tear-out, but a straight bit is a good and affordable option.

How tight should a box joint be?

A box joint should slide together by hand and hold firmly without being forced. If it is too tight, there may not be enough room for glue. If it is too loose, the joint will not be as strong.

Jigs used for the project:

This post How to Make a Router Table Box Joint Jig: Step-by-Step Guide first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

How to Make a Simple DIY Router Table (With Table Fence)

About the author, Lukas — Tue, 18 Oct 2022 07:02:05 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

How to Make a Simple DIY Router Table (With Table Fence)

Having a router table in the workshop is incredibly useful. It opens up many woodworking techniques that are difficult — or sometimes impossible — to do with a handheld router alone. Cuts become more controlled, repeatable, and accurate, especially when working with joinery, dados, rabbets, edge profiles, or smaller workpieces.

But full-size router tables can get expensive quickly, and they also take up a lot of space. If you’re a woodworking beginner or a DIYer like me, building a simple benchtop router table is a great alternative.

This DIY router table is compact, portable, and easy to clamp onto a workbench whenever you need it. Even though it’s small, it still gives you many of the same advantages as a larger setup — including an adjustable fence, T-tracks for accessories, and dust collection.

One thing I really like about this design is that you can easily expand it later with add-ons like a box joint jig, spline jig, tenoning jig, or other router table accessories.

👉 If you enjoy building workshop jigs like this, check out my Best DIY Woodworking Jigs for Your Workshop guide. I also now offer premium woodworking plans for selected workshop jigs and cutting board builds if you want the more complete version of the projects.

Let me show you how to build it step by step.

DIY Router Table Video

Watch the video below for the full step-by-step build of this DIY router table. I’ll show you how I built the tabletop, added the T-tracks, made the adjustable fence, and put together the dust collection system.

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DIY Router Table Video
Router Table Plans
The Material you will need
General Questions
1. What is a Router Table?
2. Router vs Router Table
3. How Difficult Is It to Make a Benchtop Router Table?
How to Make a Benchtop Router Table (with Fence and Dust Collector)
1. Step 1: Build a Router Table Top
2. Step 2: Attach the Router to the Table Top
3. Step 3: Cut the T-Tracks in the Router Table
4. Step 4: Build the Router Table Fence
5. Step 5: Build the Router Table Dust Collection Box
How to Set Up and Use a Benchtop Router Table
Tabletop Router Table – Potential Upgrades
Wrap-up
FAQ
Jigs Used for this Project

*Safety is your responsibility. Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first!

Router Table Plans

I also offer a premium version of the Benchtop Router Table plans, which includes:

Browse all my premium woodworking plans here.

Download the free Router Table Plans here

Download free plans here

What you'll need to make a Simple DIY Router Table

Here are the materials and tools I used to build this benchtop router table.

Router Table Top

400 mm × 300 mm × 12 mm plywood
400 mm × 300 mm × 9 mm plywood

DIY T-tracks

2× HDF strips – 400 mm × 13.5 mm × 4 mm
4× HDF strips – 180 mm × 13.5 mm × 4 mm
DIY T-track bolts

Router Fence

300 mm × 60 mm × 12 mm plywood
300 mm × 7 mm × 8 mm HDF

Router Table Dust Collector – Plywood

47 mm × 39 mm × 18 mm plywood
3× 60 mm × 60 mm × 6 mm plywood pieces

Check all the Tools I Use

Tools:

Circular Saw – https://amzn.to/4aMD0xg
Hand Drill – https://amzn.to/3HqLEnH
Trim Router – https://amzn.to/3HbQcOg
Table Saw / Mini Table Saw – https://amzn.to/47mWiGf
Narex Chisels – https://amzn.to/3tHNJrT
One Hand Clamps – https://amzn.to/48jGxkZ
Spring Clamps – https://amzn.to/41Nuh9D
F-Clamps – https://amzn.to/48ArzY1
Machinist Square / Speed Square

Other:

Wood Glue – https://amzn.to/48ltKhJ
Forstner Bits – 35mm – https://amzn.to/3Hd1aDb
Router Bits – 6mm – https://amzn.to/3NQNDVX
Drill bits – https://amzn.to/4aI47t3
Polyurethane finish – https://amzn.to/3TOoOO3
M4 Bolts with countersunk head – https://amzn.to/3RJd2BU
M6 Bolts, M6 Wing Nuts, Washers, WoodScrews – https://amzn.to/41PodgQ

Some of the links above are affiliate links. If you buy through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

📌 Pin this to your woodworking board so you can build this DIY router table later!

DIY benchtop router table with fence, T-tracks, and dust collection — a compact setup for a small workshop.

What is a Router Table?

A router table is a woodworking station that holds a router upside down beneath a flat tabletop. Instead of moving the router across the wood, you move the workpiece across the router bit. This setup gives you better control, cleaner cuts, and more repeatable results — especially for smaller pieces and detailed work.

A router table is especially useful for:

Cutting joinery such as dados, rabbets, grooves, and box joints
Routing edge profiles with more control and consistency
Working with smaller workpieces more safely and accurately
Making repeatable cuts using fences, stops, or jigs
Using additional accessories like featherboards, spline jigs, or tenoning jigs

One of the biggest advantages of a router table is precision. Once the fence and bit height are set up correctly, you can quickly repeat the same cut on multiple pieces with very consistent results.

For many woodworking projects — especially cutting boards, boxes, frames, or cabinetry — a router table becomes one of the most useful tools in the workshop.

Router vs Router Table

Feature	Handheld Router	Router Table
Best For	Freehand routing and larger workpieces	Controlled, repeatable cuts and smaller parts
Precision	Good	Excellent
Ease of Repeat Cuts	Moderate	Very Easy
Joinery Work	Possible	Excellent
Small Workpieces	Harder to control	Much safer and easier

A router table gives you better control, repeatability, and accuracy — especially for joinery and smaller woodworking parts.

How Difficult Is It to Make a Benchtop Router Table?

Building a benchtop router table is a fairly beginner-friendly project. You don’t need a large workshop or expensive materials — most of the build can be done with a circular saw or table saw, a hand drill, clamps, and a trim router.

The most important part is accuracy. Take your time when centering the router, drilling the mounting holes, and cutting the T-tracks. If these parts are aligned well, the table will be much easier and safer to use later.

What makes this build worth it is that you get many of the benefits of a full-size router table in a compact version you can clamp to a workbench and store when not in use.

💡 TIP: Build it simple first. You can always improve it later with a better fence, router plate, dust collection, or extra jigs.

Let’s Start Building!

This DIY router table consists of three main parts — the tabletop, the adjustable fence, and the dust collection box. The build is compact, simple, and designed to be easy to modify later with additional jigs and accessories.

The tabletop is made from two plywood layers glued together to create a strong and stable work surface. I also added DIY T-tracks, which allow you to quickly attach the fence, clamps, featherboards, or other router table accessories.

One thing I really like about this design is its flexibility. Even though it’s a small benchtop router table, it still gives you many of the same advantages as a larger setup while taking up only a fraction of the space.

Router Table Features

Adjustable Fence – allows more accurate and repeatable cuts
DIY T-Track System – useful for fences, jigs, featherboards, and stops
Dust Collection Box – helps keep the workspace cleaner
Compact Design – easy to clamp onto a workbench and store afterward
Expandable Setup – compatible with additional router table jigs and accessories

NOTE: This build was designed around a DeWalt trim router, but the dimensions can easily be adjusted for other router types as well.

How to Make a Benchtop Router Table (with Fence and Dust Collector)

Step 1: Build the Router Tabletop

Start by measuring and marking the plywood sheets for the tabletop. For this build, I used two pieces of Baltic birch plywood — one 12 mm thick and the other 9 mm thick. Glued together, they create a strong and stable tabletop that is still light enough for a benchtop setup.

Back when I built this router table, I didn’t have a table saw yet, so I cut the plywood using a circular saw and a straight guide. It worked well, but if you have a table saw, that will give you the cleanest and most accurate cuts.

Make sure both plywood sheets are cut square and align nicely with each other. This is important because the tabletop needs to stay flat and stable, especially once the router is mounted underneath.

Apply wood glue between the two sheets, align the edges carefully, and add weight on top to spread even pressure during the glue-up. Keep checking that the pieces don’t shift. Once aligned, add screws from the bottom to reinforce the tabletop. I placed the screws in the corners, roughly 20 mm from the edges.

💡TIP: Make sure the screw heads sit flush with the bottom surface so they don’t interfere with clamping or how the table sits on your workbench.

NOTE: Keeping both plywood layers aligned during glue-up is the most important part of this step. Take your time here — it will make the rest of the build much easier.

Step 2: Attach the Router to the Tabletop

The router is mounted from the bottom of the tabletop, but the attachment screws go in from the top. Start by finding and marking the center of the tabletop on the working surface.

Remove the router base plate and place it in the center of the tabletop. Use it as a template to mark both the center opening for the router bit and the mounting holes for the screws. Take your time here and make sure everything is properly centered and aligned with the tabletop.

Drill the mounting holes all the way through the table, then countersink them from the top. This is important because the screw heads must sit flush with the working surface.

Next, drill the center hole for the router bit using a Forstner bit or hole saw. Don’t make this opening larger than necessary — it only needs to be big enough for the largest router bit you plan to use with this table.

Lightly clean the edges of the center hole, then test the fit by mounting the router underneath the table and inserting the screws from the top.

NOTE: Depending on the thickness of your tabletop, you may need longer screws than the ones originally used for your router base plate. Make sure they are long enough to hold the router securely.

💡TIP: Before drilling, double-check the router orientation. Make sure the router controls, power switch, and depth adjustment will still be easy to access from underneath the table.

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Step 3: Cut the T-Tracks in the Router Table

In this step, we’ll add three T-tracks to the tabletop. These make the router table much more versatile and allow you to attach the fence, stops, clamps, and other accessories.

There are three T-tracks in total:

Two tracks run from the back of the table toward the front and stop roughly around 60% of the table width. These are mainly used for attaching and adjusting the router table fence.
One track runs along the full length of the tabletop, in front of the router bit. This one can be used for additional accessories or jigs, such as a tenoning jig.

I’m making my own DIY T-tracks using MDF strips, but you can use shop-made T-tracks as well if you prefer.

Start by marking the track layout directly on the tabletop. Take your time here and make sure the tracks are straight and perpendicular, especially the two tracks used for the fence.

Cut the dadoes using a router and a dado jig. Once the grooves are routed, clean the corners with a chisel and give the tracks a light sanding. Pay extra attention to the center channel where the bolts will slide — it should be smooth enough for easy adjustment.

Next, cut the MDF strips and glue them into the routed grooves to form the T-tracks. Use only enough glue to hold the strips in place.

NOTE: Be careful not to get glue into the center track. It is difficult to remove afterward and can prevent the bolts from sliding smoothly. You can also reinforce the MDF strips with screws if needed. If you do, make sure the screw heads are properly countersunk and do not stick above the surface.

💡TIP: Once the MDF strips are installed, check that they are level with the tabletop. Any raised edge can interfere with your workpiece or fence movement.

Step 4: Build the Router Table Fence

Start by cutting all the fence parts to size — the front fence, the back support, and the reinforcing triangles.

The front fence is the part that touches the workpiece, so it needs to be as straight and square as possible.
The back support is used to attach the fence to the T-tracks and allows you to adjust the fence position.
The reinforcing triangles strengthen the connection between both parts and help keep the fence rigid.

Next, cut out the center opening in both the front fence and the back support. This gives clearance for the router bit and allows dust to move toward the dust collection box later. Then cut the adjustment slots in the back support so the fence can slide forward and backward on the T-tracks.

Glue the front fence and back support together, making sure they are perfectly perpendicular. Use a square here and take your time — if the fence is not square, it will affect the accuracy of your cuts.

Add the reinforcing triangles to strengthen the fence assembly. I also recommend adding screws for extra strength. Make sure the screw heads are flush with the surface so they don’t interfere with the workpiece or fence movement.

TIP: Check the fence with a square before the glue dries. It is much easier to correct alignment now than after everything is fixed in place.

NOTE: The straighter and sturdier the fence is, the better and safer the router table will be in use.

Step 5: Build the Router Table Dust Collection Box

To keep the router table cleaner during use, add a small dust collection box to the back of the fence. It won’t remove every bit of dust, but it helps collect a lot of the chips and fine debris coming from the router bit.

Start by cutting the small plywood pieces for the dust box. Drill a hole in the center of the back piece for the vacuum hose or dust extractor attachment. Make sure the hole matches the size of your vacuum connection.

Then glue the remaining pieces together to form a small box. Once the glue dries, attach the dust collection box to the back of the router table fence, aligned with the center opening behind the router bit.

TIP: Test the fit of your vacuum hose before gluing everything permanently. It is much easier to adjust the opening before the box is attached to the fence.

NOTE: Dust collection on a small router table will never be perfect, but even a simple dust box makes a big difference in keeping the workspace cleaner and improving visibility while cutting.

Below is a picture of the finished benchtop router table. A router table will unlock new work possibilities and make it easier for you to work on your projects. I have used it on multiple occasions and it is for sure one of the most practical and useful builds for a router.

How to Set Up and Use a Benchtop Router Table

Before setting up or adjusting the router table, make sure the router is turned off and unplugged. Always use proper safety equipment, especially safety glasses, hearing protection, and push blocks or push pads when working with smaller pieces.

1. Secure the Router Table to the Workbench

Place the router table on a stable work surface and clamp it down securely. This prevents movement during cuts and makes the setup much safer and more accurate.

2. Mount the Router Under the Table

Attach the router underneath the tabletop using the mounting screws. Make sure the router is firmly secured and centered beneath the opening.

3. Install the Router Bit and Set the Height

Insert the router bit and adjust the cutting height using the router’s built-in depth adjustment. Since this build does not use a router lift, all height adjustments are done from underneath the table.

TIP: Start with shallow cuts and raise the bit gradually if needed. This gives cleaner results and puts less strain on the router.

4. Attach the Fence and Dust Collection

Install the adjustable fence using the T-tracks and connect the dust collection hose to the dust box. Position the fence according to the type of cut you want to make.

5. Make the Cut

Turn on the router and slowly guide the workpiece along the fence and across the router bit. Keep steady pressure against the fence and let the router bit do the work.

NOTE: Avoid forcing the cut. Moving too quickly can cause rough edges, burning, or loss of control — especially with larger router bits or hardwoods.

Tabletop Router Table - Potential Upgrades

You can use this benchtop router table as it is, but the nice thing about this design is that it’s easy to improve and expand later. The T-tracks make it simple to add accessories, jigs, and better support depending on the project.

Here are a few upgrades worth considering:

Add a router plate – A router plate makes mounting and removing the router easier and gives you a cleaner, more professional tabletop setup.
Improve the fence – You can add replaceable fence faces, a chamfer at the bottom for dust relief, or even a T-track to mount stops and featherboards.
Add a router lift – This makes bit-height adjustments much easier, especially if you use the router table often.
Add featherboards – Featherboards help keep the workpiece pressed against the table and fence, improving both safety and cut consistency.
Build a stand or cabinet – If you use the table regularly, you can mount it on a dedicated stand or cabinet with storage for bits, accessories, and jigs.
Add router table jigs – This table can also be used with additional jigs like a box joint jig, spline jig, or tenoning jig. These can be mounted on the table and removed when not needed, which keeps the setup compact but still very versatile.

TIP: Start simple and upgrade only what you actually need. A compact router table like this can grow with your workshop over time.

Wrap-Up: Why a DIY Router Table Is Worth Building

A router table is one of those workshop tools that completely changes how you work with a router. Once you start using one, it quickly becomes part of your regular workflow — especially for joinery, edge profiling, grooves, dados, and smaller detailed cuts.

What I really like about this benchtop version is that it gives you many of the advantages of a full-size router table while staying compact, portable, and affordable. It doesn’t take much space in the workshop, can be clamped onto almost any workbench, and still offers a lot of flexibility thanks to the adjustable fence and T-tracks.

I also like that this setup can grow over time. You can keep it simple or expand it with additional jigs and accessories like a box joint jig, spline jig, featherboards, stops, or a tenoning jig depending on the type of projects you build.

I use this router table regularly when working on cutting boards — especially for routing edge profiles, and making handles. It’s one of the most practical router builds I have in the workshop.

👉 If you’re building cutting boards or workshop jigs, check out my Best Jigs for Making Cutting Boards guide. Many of the jigs there work perfectly together with a router table like this one. And if you want the more complete version of the builds, you can also browse my woodworking plans page.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a trim router for a router table?

Yes. A trim router works very well for a compact benchtop router table like this one. It is lightweight, easy to mount, and powerful enough for most edge profiling, dados, rabbets, and smaller joinery tasks.

What plywood is best for a DIY router table?

Baltic birch plywood is a great choice because it is strong, flat, and durable. It also holds screws well and creates a stable surface for the router table.

Do I need metal T-tracks?

No. You can use homemade T-tracks like the MDF/HDF version used in this build. They work well, are affordable, and can be made directly in the tabletop.

Is a benchtop router table stable enough?

Yes, as long as it is clamped securely to a workbench. A compact router table like this can handle many common woodworking tasks while staying portable and easy to store.

Can I add more jigs to this router table?

Yes. The T-track layout allows you to mount additional jigs and accessories such as a box joint jig, spline jig, featherboards, stops, or a tenoning jig.

Is a router table useful for cutting boards?

Absolutely. A router table is very useful for routing edge profiles, grooves, slots, and other details commonly used when making cutting boards.

Jigs Used for This Project

These are the jigs I used while building this DIY router table. Not all of them are required, but they make the build easier, cleaner, and more accurate.

You don’t need every jig on this list to build the router table, but this is exactly why I like making workshop jigs — they keep stacking up and make future projects easier.

This post How to Make a Simple DIY Router Table (With Table Fence) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

Adjustable Router Dado Jig for Perfect Dados and Grooves

About the author, Lukas — Tue, 13 Sep 2022 10:14:53 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

Adjustable Router Dado Jig for Perfect Dados and Grooves

A router dado jig is a perfect tool for cutting dados, grooves, and rabbets. It is a huge helper when it comes to making T-joints or cutting T-slots in wood, and it can also be used as a simple mortising jig.

For occasional rabbets, one side of this jig works well as a straight router guide. If rabbets are a regular part of your projects, I also built a dedicated Router Rabbet Jig that gives you a built-in 90° reference and a faster setup along the edge of the workpiece.

I have already built a similar dado jig for a router and I have used it for countless projects. It is easy to set up and really simple to cut a dado with. It has been one of the most used jigs in the workshop and it is definitely one of the top 3 jigs for a router.

Over time, I realized the jig needed something more – an adjustable stopper. So, I went ahead and added that to this updated Dado jig.

An adjustable stopper makes it easy to cut exact-width dados, rabbets, or mortises. Also, the stopper acts as a parallel guide so cutting squares or rectangles is an easy job.

Although cutting squares or mortises with this jig is simple, I use it most for cutting slots and making t-tracks. Once the dado jig is set up you can easily make repeated cuts.

I built this upgraded router jig over a weekend. The material is easily available, the only thing you really need is an MDF and a plywood desk, possibly aluminum slats.

This is quite an easy project for any beginning woodworker and one of the most useful jigs for a router. The tool offers many options, so you may be surprised.

RELATED:

DIY Adjustable Router Dado Jig Video

If you want to build a dado jig with stoppers for a trim router and want to see how it is done, watch the video below for a detailed step-by-step guide.

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Adjustable Router Dado Jig Plans
The Material you will need
General Questions
1. What router bit should I use to cut dados?
How to make a Router Dado Jig for Perfect Dados and Grooves
1. Step 1: Build the Front Baseplate
2. Step 2: Make a T-track
3. Step 3: Build the Back Baseplate
4. Step 4: Make T-track Bolts
5. Step 5: Make Adjustable Stoppers
Multiple Ways How to Use an Adjustable Router Dado Jig
1. Using both parts of the dado jig together
2. Using one part of the dado jig

*Safety is your responsibility. Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first!

Always be cautious and careful when using any power tool.

Adjustable Router Dado Jig Plans

Download the Adjustable Router Dado Jig Plans here

Download plans here

What you'll need to make an Adjustable Router Dado Jig

Router jig base
MDF – 2x – 500 mm x 110 mm x 5 mm
Aluminum L angles – 2x – 500 mm x 12 mm x 14 mm

Router jig t-tracks
Plywood Strips – 2x – 50 mm x 20 mm x 6,5 mm; 2x – 500 mm x 15 mm x 6,5 mm
MDF Strips – 4x – 500 mm x 24 mm x 4 mm; 2x – 500 mm x 19 mm x 4 mm

Router Jig stoppers
Plywood – 2x -110 mm x 20 mm x 90 mm
MDF – 2x 260 mm x 20 mm x 4 mm

Tools:
Circular Saw – https://amzn.to/4aMD0xg
Trim Router – https://amzn.to/3HbQcOg
Proxxon Mini Table Saw
Bosch Cord Drill – https://amzn.to/3NSA3Bo (GSB 13RE Review)
Narex Chisels – https://amzn.to/3tHNJrT
One Hand Clamps – https://amzn.to/48jGxkZ
Spring Clamps – https://amzn.to/41Nuh9D
F-Clamps – https://amzn.to/48ArzY1
Machinist Square / Speed Square

Other:
Double-Sided Woodworking Tape – https://amzn.to/3tPMGpM
Wood Glue – https://amzn.to/48ltKhJ
Epoxy – https://amzn.to/3tJ5R4L
Router bits – 6mm – https://amzn.to/3NQNDVX
M6 Wing nut, M6 Bolts

Check all the Tools I Use

We may earn an affiliate commission when you buy something through our retail links. As an Amazon Associate AllFlavor Workshop earns from qualifying purchases.

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What router bit should I use to cut dados?

The two best router bits for cutting dados, grooves, and rabbets are a double flute straight router bit and an upcut/downcut spiral bit.

Straight router bit cuts the material along its entire length, so more pressure is exerted on the bit blade. When using a straight bit, it is better to make shallow cuts with more passes. Thus, the resulting cut will be cleaner and there is less chance the router bit will get burnt or break.
Spiral router bit cuts the material only when the blade touches the stock. There is less contact between the router bit and the material, which is gentler on the blade. Unlike the straight bit that chops the material, the spiral router bit peels the material off leading to a cleaner cut.

Let's start building!

The Dado jig has 2 main parts – the base and the guide rail with t-tracks.

For the base, I am using a thin MDF desk. The thinner the base, the greater the depth of the cut. However, the desk needs to be strong enough to support the weight of the trim router.
The guide rails are made of aluminum L angles glued with epoxy to the base and are followed by t-tracks.

The overall dimensions of the dado jig are 500 mm x 22 mm, which gives roughly 30 mm to cut dados and grooves. One of the major benefits is that both parts of the jig can be used together or independently.

NOTE: The route dado jig is built and can be used with one router bit size only. If you use a 6mm router bit to build the jig then it can be used only with a 6mm router bit.

Also, take into account the type of your router and the router base. The distance between the front of the router base and the router bit might be different than the distance between the back of the base and the router bit – that would determine the width of the dado jig base plates and precisely defines which base plate is the front and which is the back.

How to make a Router Dado Jig for Perfect Dados and Grooves

Step 1: Build the Front Baseplate

First, measure and cut the MDF baseboard (final dimensions after cutoffs – 240 mm x 60 mm x 12 mm). Cut the baseboard slightly wider, though. The wood excess will be cut off later.

To cut both the baseboards I was using a circular saw with a circular saw straight edge guide and circular saw track, though a table saw would work just as well.

Mark the position of the aluminum L angle (50 mm from the bottom of the MDF strip). Cut a shallow dado to make the angle flush with the surface. Apply epoxy and glue the angle to the baseboard.

NOTE: Since the MDF baseboard is too thin, I am using epoxy to glue the aluminum angle to the MDF. Screws would not work here. As a benefit, the installed angle will reinforce the baseplate.

Step 2: Make a T-track

Cut all the wood strips necessary for the t-tracks. Start gluing the individual wood layers on top of each other and make a t-track. The first layer is the MDF baseboard, then the plywood strips 6,5 mm, and then the MDF strips 4 mm.

Make sure the glue does not get in the track, otherwise, it is quite complicated to clean it.

TIP: You can use t-track bolts or thin strips of wood as separators when measuring the distance between the t-track layers (Step 4).

Once the glue dries, cut off the MFD excess from the base using a router. The router bit size you will use for that will determine the size of the bit you will need to use together with this router jig. If necessary, make a mark on the baseboard to know that this is the front piece of the jig and needs to be used together with the front part of the router base.

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Step 3: Build the Back Baseplate

Repeat Step 1 and Step 2 to make the back baseplate of the router jig. When cutting the wood excess turn your router and use the back side of the router to make the cut.

Now you have the front and the back baseboards.

Step 4: Make T-track Bolts

Cut 4 plywood pieces for the t-track bolts (30 mm x 15 mm x 6,5cm) and round the edges. Drill a 6mm hole in the center of the piece and carve a hexagon around the hole to fit in the bolt’s head and make it flush with the surface. Use epoxy to fix it permanently in place.

NOTE: You can grind the bolt’s head to make the entire t-track bolt thinner. The carved hexagon doesn’t have to be that deep.

Step 5: Make Adjustable Stoppers

Cut the wooden strips for the stoppers (Plywood, MDF). Route slots at the ends of the MDF strips for adjustments and glue the strips with the Plywood pieces.

When gluing the plywood pieces, note, that they should fit between the baseboards entirely when the router dado jig is in its minimum position.

Improvement to the stoppers

Add perpendicular wooden strips to the stoppers. This is especially useful when cutting a precise shape such as a square or rectangle and you want to follow a drawn shape.

Use harder material like plywood. ( I used MDF but after some time the edges became worn)
The width of the strips is at most equal to the bit thickness (in my case a little less than 6mm). Make the strips longer, they will be cut to size during the first use of the jig.
When installing the stoppers on the t-tracks, make sure the perpendicular strips are right between the baseboards.
Use epoxy to glue the strips to the stoppers. Additionally, you can use screws but make sure they are flush with the surface)

Below is a picture of a finished Dado jig for a router with added stoppers. I love this jig. There are so many things that can be done with this router jig. I have been using it for multiple projects and it is for sure one of the most practical and useful jigs for a trim router.

Multiple Ways How to Use an Adjustable Router Dado Jig

There are a few ways to use an adjustable router dado jig. The versatility of the tool is great. It has a wide range of uses which are described more in detail below.

All methods require that the jig be attached to the material being cut, or to the table. The base and the stoppers are not firmly fixed to each other so all parts can be used independently.

1. Cut Dados and Grooves

The router jig can be used to cut precise exact-width dados and grooves.

Insert a reference piece in the dado jig, adjust both the base plates and the stoppers around the piece, and lock the jig down. Remove the material from the jig, insert the router, and make a cut. Thus, you will get an exact width dado. This method is suitable for making t-joints.

2. Cut Precise Squares and Rectangles

Draw the square on the workpiece. Place the router jig on the workpiece and align the baseplate edges and the stoppers with the drawn lines. Cut the square and use a chisel to clean the corners.

3. Cut T-Tracks

Place the dado jig on a workpiece with the drawn lines. Align the inner edges of the jig with the lines and lock the jig down. Then, make the cut. This is my preferred method of creating t-tracks.

4. Cut Mortises

Set the length and the width of the tenon on the dado jig and lock it down. Place it on a drawn/marked mortise and make a cut.

5. Cut Rabbets

The dado jig can also be used for rabbets because the two base plates are not permanently fixed together and can be used independently.

To cut a rabbet, place one base plate along the edge of the workpiece. Align the inner edge of the jig with the marked rabbet line, clamp everything securely, and make the cut with the router.

This works well when you only need an occasional rabbet. If you cut rabbets more often, I also built a dedicated Router Rabbet Jig with a built-in 90° reference that makes positioning the workpiece and setting up repeated rabbet cuts much faster.

6. Make Straight Long Cuts

The aluminum rail on the base plate can also serve as a guide for making straight long cuts. Place the base on the workpiece, clamp it down, and make a cut.

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I hope the information shared in this blog post inspired and now you are adding this router jig to your next builds. 😉

DIY Dado Jig for Router

Jigs used for this project:

This post Adjustable Router Dado Jig for Perfect Dados and Grooves first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

router jig – AllFlavor Workshop

DIY Router Rabbet Jig: Cut Clean, Accurate Rabbets

Table of Contents

What Is a Router Rabbet Jig?

Downloadable Router Rabbet Jig Plans

Materials and Tools

Why I Built This Jig

Router Rabbet Jig Size and Capacity

How the Router Rabbet Jig Works

Let’s Start Building!

How to Make a Simple Router Rabbet Jig

Step 1: Cut the Three Main Jig Pieces

Step 2: Glue the Guide and 90° Crosspiece

Step 3: Add the Overlapping Clamping Section

Step 4: Drill the Clamping Holes

Step 5: Reinforce the Jig From Below

Step 6: Create the Router Opening and Cutting Path

How to Use the Router Rabbet Jig

How to Set Rabbet Width and Depth

Rabbet Width

Rabbet Depth

Cutting Multiple Rabbets on One Workpiece

What Else Can You Use the Jig For?

Straight Router Cuts

Dados

Router Rabbet Jig vs Router Dado Jig

Where I Would Use This Jig

Wrap-Up

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a router rabbet jig?

Is a rabbet the same as a rebate?

Can I cut rabbets with a straight router bit?

How do you make a wider rabbet than the router bit?

How deep should I cut a rabbet in one pass?

How to Make a Router Circle Jig (Multi-Function Router Base Addon)

DIY Router Circle Jig for a Router Base Video

Table of Contents

Router Circle Jig Plans for a Multi-Purpose Router Base

What you'll need to make a Router Circle Cutting Jig Addon

What are the benefits of a DIY router circle jig?

What type of router bit should I use to cut circles with my router jig?

Let's start building!

How to Make a Router Circle Jig Addon for a Multi-Function Router Base

Step 1: Prepare the router base

Step 2: Make the Circle Extendable Arm

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Step 3: Make the Slider

Step 4: Attach the Circle Arm to the Base

Step 5: Attach the Self-adhesive Scale Ruler

How to Cut a Circle in Wood with a Router Circle Jig Addon

TIPS

Conclusion

DIY Router Circle Cutting Jig

Jigs used for this project:

How to Make a Multi-Purpose Router Jig (A Step-by-Step Guide)

DIY Multi-Purpose Router Jig Video

Table of Contents

Multi-Purpose Router Jig Plans

What You'll Need to Build the Multi-Purpose Router Jig

What Are the Benefits of Making a Multi-Purpose Router Jig?

Let's Start Building!

Building the Multi-Purpose Router Jig

Step 1: Cut the Router Base Pieces

1. Cut the T-Slots in the Base

2. Cut the Router Opening

Step 2: Make the Handles

1. Shape the Handles

2. Prepare the Router Base for the Handles

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Step 3: Cut the MDF Router Base Desk

1. Create the T-Slots

2. Cut the Router Mounting Openings

Step 4: Assemble the Router Base

Step 5: Attach the Handles

Step 6: Attach the Router to the Base

Adding Guide Rails and Accessories

What Can You Do With a Multi-Purpose Router Jig?

1. Freehand Routing

2. Cutting Dados, Grooves, and Rabbets

3. Making Homemade T-tracks and T-slots