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Q: Which woodworking jigs should I build first?

Start with a crosscut sled, circular saw guide, or a router dado jig. These are simple to make and useful in almost every project.

Woodworking Jigs: Should You Build or Buy? A Beginner’s Guide (With Examples)

About the author, Lukas — Mon, 30 Jan 2023 08:56:47 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

Woodworking Jigs: Should You Build or Buy? A Beginner’s Guide (With Examples)

When you’re just starting out in woodworking, one of the first things you’ll hear about—after “get a square cut”—is jigs.

These simple tools can save time, improve accuracy, and make your work a lot safer. But if you’re setting up your shop for the first time, you’ve probably wondered:

👉 Should I build my jigs myself, or just buy them ready-made?

I’ve asked myself that exact question—and over the years, I’ve done both. In this guide, I’ll walk you through the pros and cons of buying vs building woodworking jigs, share real examples, and help you decide which route makes the most sense based on your skills, tools, and time.

Let’s get into it.

RELATED:

What is a Jig in Woodworking?
Buying VS Making Your Own Woodworking Jigs
Pros And Cons of Buying a Woodworking Jig
Pros And Cons of Making a Woodworking Jig
9 simple DIY woodworking jigs for beginners
Conclusion

*Safety is your responsibility. Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first!

Always be cautious and careful when using any power tool.

What Is a Woodworking Jig?

A woodworking jig is a simple tool or guide that helps you make precise, repeatable cuts, holes, or shapes in your projects. It holds your workpiece in place and guides your tool—whether it’s a saw, router, or drill—along a defined path.

Think of a jig as a shortcut: instead of measuring and marking over and over again, a well-made jig lets you do the same cut quickly, safely, and accurately—every single time.

Some jigs focus on improving safety by keeping your hands away from blades. Others make it easier to cut perfect angles or identical pieces. Either way, they’re essential in any workshop.

Buying vs Making Woodworking Jigs: Quick Comparison

Feature / Factor	🛒 Buy a Jig	🪚 Build a Jig
✅ Speed	Ready to use immediately	Requires time and tools to build
💰 Cost	Can be expensive, especially for quality jigs	Usually cheaper, especially using scrap material
🛠 Customization	Limited — one-size-fits-most	Fully customizable to your project and tools
📦 Durability	Often made of metal/plastic — may wear over time	Can be stronger if made from quality plywood or MDF
🎯 Precision Fit	Generally precise out of the box	Depends on your build quality and measurements
🎓 Skill Development	Minimal learning required	Great for practicing cutting, measuring, problem-solving
🔄 Flexibility	May not work across multiple tools or setups	Can be adapted for different tools and uses

💡 Tip: If you’re short on time or working on a complex project, buying a jig might make sense. But if you’re learning, want to save money, or need something custom—building it yourself is often the better choice.

Pros and Cons of Buying a Woodworking Jig

Buying a readymade jig has several advantages, but also some drawbacks.

Pros of Buying a Jig

Ready to use right away – No building, no measuring, no cutting. If you’re on a tight deadline or mid-project, this can be a lifesaver.
Reliable precision – Many commercial jigs are machine-made and offer consistent accuracy, especially for specialty cuts.
Good for complex or specialty work – Some jigs are tricky to build correctly (like dovetail or mortise jigs), and store-bought versions can save frustration.
No tool or material investment needed – You don’t need scrap wood, fasteners, or extra workshop time.

Cons of Buying a Jig

Often expensive – Buying multiple jigs adds up fast—especially if you’re just starting out or need several for a new project.
Limited flexibility – Most store-bought jigs are built for general use, not your specific project. You might find yourself modifying them anyway.
No learning value – Buying a jig skips over the opportunity to practice measuring, cutting, and problem-solving—which are valuable skills, especially for beginners.
Not always upgradeable – Many jigs (especially plastic ones) aren’t easily adjustable or expandable over time.

Tip: If a jig is unusually complex, or you need it immediately for a project, buying might make more sense. Otherwise, if you’re working on a budget or want to learn, building it yourself is often the better route.

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Pros and Cons of Making a Woodworking Jig

Pros of Making Your Own Jig

Much cheaper – Most jigs can be made from leftover plywood, MDF, or scrap wood. That’s money saved for tools or materials.
Custom fit for your project – You can build the jig to match the exact size, tool setup, or repeatable cut you need.
Learn valuable skills – Designing and building jigs helps you improve layout, measurement, precision, and tool control.
Easily modifiable – If your project changes or you want to improve the jig later, it’s simple to tweak your design.
Gives you confidence – The more jigs you make, the more comfortable you become working independently in your shop.

Cons of Making a Jig

Takes time – If you’re in a rush, building even a basic jig can eat into your project timeline.
Requires tools and workspace – You need a decent base of tools and a bit of bench space to build accurately.
Not all jigs are beginner-friendly – Some jigs (like dovetail guides or complex router jigs) require precise angles and fine-tuning, which can be frustrating without experience.
Mistakes are part of the process – The first few might not come out perfect—and that’s okay. You’ll learn and improve with each one.

Personal note: Some of my most-used jigs are the ones I made in the early days of my workshop. They weren’t perfect, but they worked—and building them taught me more than any instruction manual ever could.

When Should You Buy vs Build a Jig?

Now that you know the trade-offs, here are a few real-world situations to help you decide whether to buy or build your next jig.

When Buying Makes Sense:

You’re in the middle of a project and need the jig now
The jig is highly complex or requires machining (e.g. dovetail or box joint jigs)
You need extreme precision and don’t want to risk building errors
You’re not interested in building and just want to focus on your main project
You’re short on time, tools, or workshop space

When Building Is the Better Option:

You’re on a tight budget and want to avoid unnecessary expenses
You need the jig to fit a very specific setup (e.g. your saw, table size, or cutting angles)
You’re working on a project that requires repeatable cuts
You’re learning woodworking and want to practice measuring, cutting, and layout
You already have suitable materials like scrap plywood or MDF on hand

Tip: Many woodworkers do both. They build their essential jigs (like crosscut sleds or straight-edge guides), and buy specialty jigs later as their projects get more complex.

Best Beginner Jigs to Build First

If you’re just getting started and want to try building your first jigs, here are a few that are simple to make, low-cost, and incredibly useful in almost every project.

1. Circular Saw Straight Edge Guide

Perfect for cutting long, straight lines in plywood or MDF. Works like a track saw without the price tag.
👉 See the full build guide

2. Crosscut Sled for Table Saw

A must-have for precise 90° cuts. Adds safety and repeatability—great for furniture, frames, and small parts.
👉 Build your own here

3. Router Dado Jig

Helps you cut clean, consistent dados and grooves with ease. Works great for shelving, drawer boxes, and cabinetry.
👉 Try this adjustable dado jig

4. Corner Clamp / Right Angle Clamp

Keeps pieces aligned while assembling boxes, drawers, or frames. Super useful and quick to build.
👉 See the jig in action

5. Drill Press Stand for Hand Drill

If you don’t have a drill press, this stand lets you drill straight, consistent holes with a hand drill.
👉 Make it step-by-step

Start with just one. Pick the jig that solves a real problem in your workshop right now—and build from there.

Conclusion

When I started woodworking, my budget was tight and my tool collection was small. Like most beginners, I had to make smart choices—and building my own jigs was one of the best ones.

Not only did I save money, but each jig I made taught me something new. It gave me more control over my work, helped me improve my accuracy, and made every project feel more manageable.

Sure, there are times when buying a jig makes sense—especially if it’s complex or you’re pressed for time. But if you’re willing to slow down just a bit, building your own jigs is a smart investment in your skills, your workshop, and your confidence.

You don’t have to build them all at once. Just start with one, and you’ll quickly see the value. Before long, you’ll have a collection of custom jigs that work exactly the way you need them to.

And honestly? Making them is half the fun. 😉

Frequently Asked Questions

Is it cheaper to build your own woodworking jigs?

Yes—especially if you use scrap materials. Most jigs can be made with plywood, MDF, or HDF you already have in your shop. Buying multiple jigs can get expensive fast.

Can beginners build woodworking jigs?

Absolutely. Many jigs are beginner-friendly and only require basic tools like a circular saw, drill, and clamps. They’re actually a great way to build your skills.

Which woodworking jigs should I build first?

Start with a crosscut sled, circular saw guide, or a router dado jig. These are simple to make and useful in almost every project.

Are store-bought jigs better than DIY ones?

Some complex jigs—like dovetail or mortise jigs—are easier to buy. But for most standard tasks, a well-made DIY jig will work just as well (or better) and can be customized to your needs.

Do I need a router or table saw to make jigs?

Not always. You can start with simple jigs using just a circular saw and a drill. As your tool collection grows, you can build more advanced ones.

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This post Woodworking Jigs: Should You Build or Buy? A Beginner’s Guide (With Examples) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

Can a Jigsaw Cut Metal? Explained!

About the author, Lukas — Mon, 23 Jan 2023 08:45:52 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

Can a Jigsaw Cut Metal? Explained!

Can a jigsaw cut metal, or do you need a different tool for this? It’s important to understand so you know what tools to purchase if you’ve got metal that needs to be cut through.

All jigsaws are capable of cutting through thin sheet metal, but if you want to cut through thick metal, you will need to purchase a heavy-duty jigsaw and use the right jigsaw blade for metal.

The thickness that different jigsaws can cut through will vary depending on the quality of the jigsaw and the blade used. Make sure you choose a jigsaw that fits your needs and always use the right blade for the job.

In this article, I will walk you through and explain whether jigsaws can cut through metal effectively, and what thickness of metal they can handle. I will also look more at what kinds of metal you can cut, considering you have a high-end jigsaw.

RELATED:

Can Jigsaws Cut Metal?
What Metal Thickness Can a Jigsaw Cut Through?
Can a Jigsaw Cut Metal Tubing?
What Jigsaw Blade Do You Need to Cut Through Metal?
What Are the Advantages of Using a Jigsaw to Cut Metal?
What Are the Disadvantages of Using a Jigsaw to Cut Metal?
Conclusion

*Safety is your responsibility. Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first! Always be cautious and careful when using any power tool.

Can a Jigsaw Cut Metal?

Jigsaws can cut through metal, yes. They are designed to cut wood, sheets of metal, and pipes, so they are an ideal tool if you need to slice through thin metal quickly and effectively.

However, when cutting, you need both a suitable blade and a powerful jigsaw. If you use the wrong blade or the jigsaw is too weak, you will likely end up with a jagged cut, or you may find that the blade won’t go through the metal. You are also at risk of breaking the blade, which could be dangerous.

A jigsaw can cut through different types of metals, including ferrous and non-ferrous metals, mild steel, or aluminum.

The picture below shows different materials a jigsaw can cut through – aluminum bars, steel rods, steel pipes, and shin sheets of steel.

What Metal Thickness Can a Jigsaw Cut Through?

The thickness of the metal that you can tackle will depend on the jigsaw. Some are heavy-duty and will be capable of going through thicker sheets, while others will only manage thin pieces of metal.

It also depends on the kind of metal; steel is far harder to cut through than non-ferrous metals. You should therefore carefully follow the instructions that come with your jigsaw to make sure you’re not attempting to cut metal that is too thick for it.

Depending on the jigsaw blade, most jigsaws can cut through sheet metal 17-26 gauge thick (0,4- 1,4mm) and very thin metals 1/64 (0,4mm) in. to 3/64 (1,19 mm) in. thick (ferrous and non-ferrous). With the right blade and a jigsaw powerful enough, possibly up to 10 gauge thick (3,2mm). Bi-metal blades can cut depths of 19/32 inches (15mm) in steel and 1 inch (25mm) in aluminum.

What Jigsaw is Suitable for Cutting Metal?

You want a jigsaw with a powerful motor if you plan to cut any thick sheets of metal with it. A 670-watt motor or possibly something higher will be necessary.

It’s best to have a jigsaw that is more powerful than you need, rather than one that is only just powerful enough. If you’re constantly testing the power of your motor, there’s a risk that it will burn out more quickly.

Can a Jigsaw Cut Metal Tubing?

Certainly, a jigsaw can tackle metal tubing, but there are nuances to consider. Before you start, check the thickness of the metal tube, so you know that your jigsaw is powerful enough to go through it and you are using the right blade.

The nature of the tube matters.

Hollow tubes are generally easier for a jigsaw to cut compared to solid ones, due to the reduced amount of material. However, the challenge with hollow tubes is ensuring that they don’t collapse or deform under pressure. To prevent this, consider filling them with sand or using a clamp to hold them steady.
When cutting solid tubes, though more labor-intensive, the process remains largely consistent; ensure that you have a suitable metal-cutting blade and maintain steady, controlled pressure. Always opt for blades with higher TPI for a smoother cut.

TIP: Remember that your tool may need to be given time to cool down if you are going to cut through multiple pipes.

What Jigsaw Blade Do You Need to Cut Through Metal?

To cut through metal with a jigsaw you need a special blade, specially designed for cutting metal. The blade’s material and the number of teeth make a big difference. The number of teeth is measured in TPI (teeth per inch).

For optimal metal cutting with a jigsaw, select a blade specifically designed for metal, considering its material and teeth count. Typically, blades between 18 and 24 TPI are ideal; with harder metals like steel requiring at least 21 TPI. Among the blade types, HSS and Bi-Metal blades are most preferred due to their durability and heat resistance. For quick cuts, you should opt for a blade with fewer teeth. Nevertheless, a clean cut with smooth edges requires a higher TPI.

Different types of jigsaw blades for cutting metal:

High-Speed Steel (HSS) – a high-speed steel blade is made of a type of steel that is designed to withstand high high-speed cutting. They are more durable than standard blades and can cut through harder material with ease.
High Carbon Steel (HCS) – a high carbon steel blade is made of a type of steel that contains a higher percentage of carbon. They are suitable for cutting softer materials, however, they are not durable as HSS blades.
Bi-Metal – a bi-metal blade is made from a combination of high-speed steel and high carbon. The combination of these two metals allows the blade to maintain its sharpness and durability while also being able to bend and flex without breaking.
Tungsten Carbide – a tungsten carbide blade is made from tungsten carbide, which is a hard and durable material. They are designed to cut through the toughest materials such as stone or ceramic. The high quality of the blades goes hand in hand with the price

HSS blades and Bi-Metal blades are commonly used when cutting metal with a jigsaw. HSS blades are more durable and heat-resistant compared to carbon steel blades. Bi-metal blades are usually made from a combination of high-speed steel and high carbon, and they are strong and flexible enough to cut metal with. They offer the best durability and will last significantly longer than other blades.

Other factors to consider when selecting the best jigsaw blades for cutting metal:

Tooth Count – blades designed for metal have a higher tooth count (TPI – teeth per inch) which helps in achieving smoother cuts. Generally, for metal, you’d want a blade that has at least 18-24 TPI.
Metal Type – Use a blade with 14-18 TPI for softer metals like aluminum or other non-ferrous metals. For harder metals like steel, pick a blade with at least 21 TPI.
Special Blades – Some blades are tailor-made for specific metals. For example, there are blades just for stainless steel.

TIP: In order to get a clean cut while using a jigsaw, place the metal sheet between two layers of thin plywood. The plywood layers will sandwich the metal piece, which will help to make a cleaner cut without burrs. Also, set your jigsaw on low speed.

What Are the Advantages of Using a Jigsaw to Cut Metal?

There are several benefits associated with using a jigsaw to cut through metal.

Jigsaws are portable and tend to be easy to handle and operate. You don’t need to spend a lot of time learning how to use one, although you should focus on understanding safety precautions.
Jigsaws don’t require you to put pressure on the metal you’re cutting, which means you can cut a lot without getting tired. All in all, they’re a quick and easy option that many people will already have access to, so they are a suitable tool for the job.

Generally, using a jigsaw is a pretty efficient method that can speed up your projects. In addition to corded jigsaws, you can also use battery-powered jigsaws that will make it easy to work in areas with no easy access to power outlets.

What Are the Disadvantages of Using a Jigsaw to Cut Metal?

One of the major drawbacks of using a jigsaw to cut metal is that if you want a fast cut, you will most likely end up with a ragged edge that will need smoothing off. If you use a fine-toothed blade, it will take a lot longer to get through the metal, especially if you’re working with thick sheets of metal.

If you’re cutting a lot of metal, a jigsaw isn’t the most efficient option. You might instead want to consider a power tool like an angle grinder or a circular saw.

Also, using a jigsaw can lead to crooked and beveled cuts. To prevent this from happening it is good to use a jigsaw guide or a jigsaw table that will help with keeping the cuts straight.

Tips for Cutting Metal with a Jigsaw

Mark the cut line on the metal to guide your jigsaw accurately.
Securely clamp the metal to the workbench.
Use an appropriate blade and check the settings of your jigsaw. Ensure the blade is in a straight down position, and consider using masking tape on the shoe to protect the metal’s surface.
To start the cut, gently press the saw shoe on the workpiece without touching the metal. Let the jigsaw work at its own pace.
During cutting, occasionally pause and apply tapping and cutting fluid to reduce heat.
As you cut, adjust the clamps and rotate the workpiece as needed for the best cutting line and precision.

To secure the metal you can sandwich it between wooden sheets for better support. This technique is especially useful when cutting thin sheets of steel.
Cut metal at a slower pace. It prevents the blade from getting too hot and makes it last longer.

Conclusion - Can you use a jigsaw to cut metal

A jigsaw can cut through metal, so if you already have a jigsaw in the workshop, you should certainly consider it as an option.

A jigsaw will easily cut through thin sheet metal and pipework, including thicker pieces of metal, provided you use a powerful enough jigsaw with the right blades. The more powerful your jigsaw is, the more capable it will be of cutting through thicker metal.

However, you should keep in mind that a jigsaw is not designed to cut through thick pieces of metal, in that case, a different tool should be used instead. Make sure you are using the appropriate blades for the task. Different materials require different blades and their correct use will determine the quality of the result. Ultimately the cut depends on 2 things – the quality of the jigsaw and the blade used.

KEEP ON READING:

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This post Can a Jigsaw Cut Metal? Explained! first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

How to Make a Drill Powered Disc Sander (DIY Disc Sander)

About the author, Lukas — Mon, 09 Jan 2023 12:10:34 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

How to Make a Drill Powered Disc Sander (DIY Disc Sander)

A drill powered disc sander is an excellent alternative to a benchtop disc sander. Although its performance often does not reach the level of a full-fledged stationary disc sander, there are numerous advantages that make them a great workshop tool.

A drill disc sander is easily portable, it is easy to build, and depending on the drill used, its performance can reach that of a benchtop disc sander.

A disc sander (disk sander) is one of the most useful tools in the workshop when sanding different types of material. In woodworking, there are numerous situations when a sander is needed, and having a sander in the workshop definitely pays off. A drill-powered disc sander is an inexpensive alternative you can easily build out of an old drill.

In this article, we will be making a drill disc sander by reusing some of the components from a drill press stand I built some time ago.

I chose Baltic birch plywood as a material, due to its strength, durability, and sustainability. All material is readily available.

Read on to find out how to build a DIY disc sander for a drill, how to set it up, and how to use it safely.

RELATED:

DIY Drill-Powered Disc Sander Video

Watch the video below for a step-by-step guide on how to make a homemade drill disc sander.

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DIY Disc Sander Video
The Material you will need
Frequently Asked Questions
1. What is the purpose of a disc sander?
2. How to prevent an injury when working with a disc sander?
3. How useful is a drill disc sander?
How to Make a Drill-Powered Disc Sander
1. Step 1: Make the Sanding Disc
2. Step 2: Make the Sanding Disc Attachment
3. Step 3: Fix the Disc Attachment to the Base
4. Step 4: Attach the Drill to the Base
5. Step 5: Stick Sandpaper to the Disc
6. Step 6: Build a Detachable Table for the Disc Sander
How to Set up and Use a DIY Drill Disc Sander
Jigs used for the project

*Safety is your responsibility. Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first!

What you'll need to make a DIY Disc Sander

Disk Sander Base
Plywood – 600 mm x 240 mm x 12 mm

Sanding Discs
Larger disc – diameter 200 mm, thickness 21 mm – https://amzn.to/3TPULp2
Smaller disc – diameter 100 mm, thickness 21 mm

Drill Holder
Refer to: DIY Drill Stand
Leveling desks – 3x – 45 x 12 x 12 mm

Disk Sander Attachment
Total dimensions: plywood – 130 mm x 110 mm x 95 mm
Leveling desks – 3x – 18 x 12 x 12 mm

Detachable Disk Sander Table
Offcuts from cutting the sanding disc
Total dimensions: plywood – 140 mm x 240 mm x 105 mm

Tools:
Trim Router – https://amzn.to/3HbQcOg
Corded Hand Drill (Drill Stand) – https://amzn.to/3NSA3Bo
Angle Grinder – https://amzn.to/48K2klD
Table Saw / Proxxon Mini Table Saw – https://amzn.to/47mWiGf
Cordless Hand Drill – https://amzn.to/3HqLEnH
One Hand Clamps – https://amzn.to/48jGxkZ
Spring Clamps – https://amzn.to/41Nuh9D
F-Clamps – https://amzn.to/48ArzY1
Machinist Square / Speed Square
Center Hole Punch – https://amzn.to/48Fq7mv

Other:
Wood Glue – https://amzn.to/48ltKhJ
Epoxy for Metal – https://amzn.to/3vAv1ms
Liquid Spray Adhesive – https://amzn.to/48GuvBP
Forstner bits – https://amzn.to/3Hd1aDb
Straight router bit – https://amzn.to/3tLCSNO
Sandpaper Sheets – https://amzn.to/41OMx2p
Bearings – https://amzn.to/3voT2gl
M6 Bolts, Washers, T-nuts, Screws – https://amzn.to/41PodgQ
Steel rod – 6mm – https://amzn.to/3tA8g1L

Check all the Tools I Use

We may earn an affiliate commission when you buy something through our retail links. As an Amazon Associate AllFlavor Workshop earns from qualifying purchases.

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What is the purpose of a disc sander?

A disc sander is one of the most helpful power tools for sanding and smoothing different types of material such as wood, metal, or plastic. It is mainly used to remove excess material, get rid of burrs, smooth the edges, and shape the contours of the material.

How to prevent an injury when working with a disc sander?

A disc sander can be dangerous if it is not used properly. The spinning disc generates a lot of heat and friction and can throw chips and splinters under high velocity over long distances. To prevent any injury, it is important to follow proper safety procedures. Here are a few tips to prevent injuries when working with a disc sander:

Make sure the disc sander is firmly attached to the table or workbench. It is necessary that the disc sander does not know and remains firmly anchored to the base.
Wear the necessary protective equipment. Most importantly, wear eye and ear protection. This way your eyes and ears will be protected from splinters and debris.
Do not use gloves when working with a disc sander. Gloves can get caught in the spinning disc, which may result in an injury. Instead, use a grip on the workpiece and keep your fingers away from the disc.
Use the right type of sandpaper for the material you are sanding. Each material requires a different type of sandpaper. By using the right type of sandpaper, you will avoid damaging the workpiece and you will create a safer work environment.

How useful is a drill disc sander?

A drill disc sander is an alternative to a stationary disc sander. Although its performance often does not reach the level of a full-fledged sander, there are a number of advantages that make it a great tool for the workshop. Here are some of the main advantages of a drill disc sander:

Portability: Generally, a drill disc sander is portable and can be used anywhere inside or outside the workshop.
Power: Depending on the type of drill used, it can achieve high performance equal to that of disc sanders.
Easy to build: Making a homemade drill disc sander is quite easy. The material is readily available and the price is relatively low.

Let's start building!

The benchtop drill disc sander consists of 4 main parts – the sanding disc, the sanding disc attachment, the drill attachment, and a small table.

The entire build is made of Baltic birch plywood. The overall dimensions are 60x24x22cm, thanks to which it fits comfortably on the workbench.

Drill Disc Sander properties:

Material: Baltic birch plywood
Total dimensions: 60x24x22cm
Attached table for comfortable sanding
Grinding disc diameter: 20cm
Equipped with suction manifold

NOTE: The disc sander reuses some of the components (drill attachment) from the hand drill stand. Take a look at the article to get an idea of how to build it. This is a project for a beginner/advanced woodworker.

How to Make a Drill-Powered Disc Sander

Step 1: Make the Sanding Disc

Take a plywood desk (22x22x2,1 cm – glued 2 desks together), mark the center, and cut a larger disc with a diameter of 20mm. To cut a perfect circle you can use a circle-cutting jig. In the same way, cut a smaller disc of the same thickness with a diameter of 10mm. (Don’t throw away the offcuts – you can reuse them for the table).

First, cut a 25mm hole in the center of the larger disc with a Forstner bit, and then drill a 6mm hole (do not cut all the way through). Drill a 6mm hole through the center of the smaller disc.

Cut a 6mm steel rod and grind a few indents and grooves in one of the ends to help the epoxy adhere to the rod better.

Apply epoxy in two steps.

Fill the holes in the larger disc with epoxy, insert the steel rod and use a machinist square to make sure the rod is perpendicular to the disc.
Once the first batch of epoxy has cured apply a second batch and glue the smaller disc to the larger one.

NOTE: Use a double-sided straight router bit or a spiral router bit to cleanly cut the wooden disc. Make sure the router bit is long enough to cut through the entire depth of the material. Use a mat to prevent damage to the table.

Step 2: Make the Sanding Disc Attachment

To prevent any wobble, you will need to firmly and securely attach the sanding disc to the drill. The drill disc attachment is firmly fixed to the base and connects the sanding disc with the drill through a bearing. The attachment is made of multiple plywood pieces (see the list of materials above).

Cut all the pieces to size. To get clean and precise cuts use a table saw crosscut sled and a drill press stand.

Cut a hole in the two main front pieces for the bearings. Make sure the bearings are flush with the surface. Then drill a 6mm hole for the steel rod. The holes need to be perfectly aligned so the rod is level.

Use epoxy to glue the bearings in the holes. Make sure to apply epoxy around the perimeter so that it doesn’t get to the center. It is desirable that the bearings keep turning.

Glue all the pieces together. Additionally, you can secure the pieces with screws. Then drill 4 6mm holes in the corners of the attachment for the possibility of attaching to the base.

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Step 3: Fix the Disc Attachment to the Base

Drill 4 holes from the bottom of the baseplate and insert t-nuts. Make sure they are flush with the surface.

Add additional plywood desks between the base and the disc attachment and fix the attachment to the base with bolts. Insert the sanding disc in the attachment and check whether the sanding disk is perpendicular to the base.

If not, add a few paper shims between the desks until the disc is exactly perpendicular.

Step 4: Attach the Drill to the Base

To attach the drill to the base I am reusing the drill attachment from the drill stand holder. There are only a few adjustments needed to use it for this project.

To stop the drill attachment from going back and forth, drill 2 holes on both sides, insert t-nuts, and secure the sliding desks with bolts.

Use the 3 already drilled holes (with t-nuts included) on the bottom of the drill attachment and fix it to the base with bolts. Use several plywood strips to level the drill attachment with the sanding disc.

NOTE: Countersunk the bolts into the board.

Step 5: Stick Sandpaper to the Disc

Use liquid spray adhesive for temporary sandpaper fixation. When the sandpaper wears out, you can easily replace it.

Step 6: Build a Detachable Table for the Disc Sander

Cut all the plywood pieces necessary for the table. Drill a 35mm hole on the side piece for suction and glue all the pieces together.

Add the offcuts from cutting the disc to minimize the free space, and to make sure all the individual parts fit together well.

Attach the table to the base with bolts and t-nuts.

Finally, add the table top.

Below is a picture of a finished drill-powered disc sander. A drill disc sander is a great cheap alternative to a benchtop disc sander and definitely pays off to have one in the shop.

How to Set up and Use a DIY Drill Disc Sander

The steps provided below describe how to set up and how to use a homemade benchtop disc sander for a drill. Make sure to wear the necessary protective equipment. Most importantly, eye and ear protection. This way your eyes and ears will be protected from splinters and debris.

For a better understanding of how to set up and use the jig, refer to the included video.

How to use a drill disc sander:

Clamp the disc sander to a workbench. The tool needs to be stable in order to avoid any wobbling and undesired movement.
Connect the extraction from under the table.
Make sure the sanding disc is tightly and securely connected to the drill.
Start the drill and set the desired speed. Higher speeds are usually used for lighter sanding, while lower speeds are better for heavy-duty grinding.
Use the table as support while sanding.
Start the tool and slowly bring the workpiece in contact with the sanding disc. To avoid damaging the material or slowing the disc use even light pressure.
Move the workpiece back and forth to evenly sand the surface.
Use the side of the disc that goes down.
Continuously check the wear of the disc.
Turn off the tool when finished sanding.

TIP: There is no need to replace the sandpaper after each sanding. Use a brush a piece of plastic or a scraper to remove any pieces of debris or material stuck to the disc. Replace the sandpaper if it is worn.

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How to Make a Disc Sander from a Drill

Jigs used for this project:

This post How to Make a Drill Powered Disc Sander (DIY Disc Sander) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

How to Cut an Oval in Wood with an Ellipse Jig

About the author, Lukas — Fri, 16 Dec 2022 14:37:12 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

How to Cut an Oval in Wood with an Ellipse Jig

You can use a circle-cutting jig to cut a circle in wood. It is easy to use and you will get great results. But how to cut an oval in wood? Cutting an oval in wood is not that different than cutting a circle. To cut an oval you will need an ellipse jig, which usually consists of a base and a circle-cutting jig.

Being able to cut an oval finds application mainly in the creation of table tops, kitchen trays, bowls, or cabinets.

The best way to cut a perfect oval is to use an ellipse jig, a trim router, and a suitable router bit (a double-edge spiral bit would be the best choice).

The ellipse jig consists of a base and a circle-cutting jig. The base can be attached to the workpiece either with screws or double-sided tape. The base has 2 perpendicular t-tracks that allow the movement of two specially modified t-track sliders. Each of the sliders moves in its own track.

The circle-cutting jig is attached to both sliders, whose set distance defines the minor and major radius of the oval. The base of the ellipse jig is smaller in size (20x20cm), which allows the cutting of small ovals. The ability to cut large ovals depends on the length of the circle-cutting jig.

All the material is easily available in a local store – plywood, HDF, few screws and bolts.

In this article, I will show you how to make a router ellipse jig, how to set it up, and how to cut an oval in wood with an ellipse jig.

Let’s get right into it!

RELATED:

DIY Ellipse Jig Video

If you want to know how to cut an oval in wood then watch the video below for a step-by-step guide on how to make an ellipse jig.

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DIY Ellipse Jig Video
Router Oval Jig Plans
The Material you will need
General Questions
1. How do you cut a perfect oval in wood with a router?
2. What tool do you use to make ovals in wood?
3. What is the best router bit for cutting an oval?
How to Cut an Oval in Wood with an Ellipse Jig
1. Step 1: Cut the Ellipse Jig Baseplate
2. Step 2: Cut the T-track Runners
3. Step 3: Assemble the Baseplate Parts
4. Step 4: Make the T-tracks
5. Step 5: Finish the T-track Runners
6. Step 6: Make T-track Bolts for the Router Circle Jig
7. Step 7: Add a Leveling Support
How to Cut an Oval in Wood
Jigs Used for the Project

*Safety is your responsibility. Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first!

Router Oval Jig Plans

Download the Router Oval Jig Plans here

Download plans here

What you'll need to make an Ellipse Router Jig

Ellipse Jig Base
HDF Board – 200 mm x 200 mm x 4 mm
Plywood boards – 4x (90 mm x 90 mm x 12 mm) – https://amzn.to/3TPULp2

DIY T-tracks
HDF Strips – 8x (95 mm x 15 mm x 3 mm)

DIY Bolts
Plywood Strips – 2x (40 mm x 20 mm x 9 mm)
HDF Strips – 2x (40 mm x 80 mm x 30 mm)
Plywood Strips – 2x (3 mm x 15 mm x 9 mm)
Brass rod – ⌀4mm – https://amzn.to/3vBzhSY

Check all the Tools I Use

Tools:
Circular Saw – https://amzn.to/4aMD0xg
Table Saw / Proxxon Mini Table Saw – https://amzn.to/47mWiGf
Trim Router – https://amzn.to/3HbQcOg
Corded Hand Drill / Drill Press – https://amzn.to/3NSA3Bo
Hand Drill – https://amzn.to/3HqLEnH
Narex Chisels – https://amzn.to/3tHNJrT
Machinist Square / Speed Square
Spring Clamps – https://amzn.to/41Nuh9D
F-Clamps – https://amzn.to/48ArzY1
One Hand Clamps – https://amzn.to/48jGxkZ

Other:
Double-Sided Woodworking Tape – https://amzn.to/3tPMGpM
Wood Glue – https://amzn.to/48ltKhJ
Epoxy – https://amzn.to/3tJ5R4L
Straight Router Bit – https://amzn.to/4aM0TEP
Wood Screws, M6 Bolts, Wing Nuts, Washers – https://amzn.to/41PodgQ

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How do you cut a perfect oval in wood with a router?

To cut a perfect oval in wood, you need a trim router, an oval cutting jig, and a suitable router cutting bit. Place the base of the oval cutting jig on the workpiece and secure it either with double-sided tape or screws. Attach the trim router to the swivel arm of the oval jig, set the minor and major radius, and start cutting. Use the appropriate router bit to ensure the best result.

What tool do you use to make ovals in wood?

The best and preferred way of cutting an oval in wood is to use a router and an ellipse jig. You can buy an ellipse router jig in a nearby store that would fit the type of your router, or you can build one yourself. An ellipse jig is a combination of a base platform and a circle-cutting jig. Both can be easily made with tools you already have in the workshop.

What is the best router bit for cutting an oval?

The best router bits for cutting and oval in wood are a straight router bit and a double edge spiral bit. They both provide excellent results. The cuts are clean, and precise and they leave a smooth finish.

The main difference between a straight router bit and a spiral router bit is in the way the wood is cut. A spiral router bit cuts away piece by piece the sheets of wood, unlike a straight router bit which rather chops off the wood.

Read the following article for more information regarding these router bits:

How to Make a Universal Router Circle Cutting Jig

Let's start building!

The ellipse jig consists of 2 main parts – the base which is attached to the workpiece and the adjustable arm that cuts the oval. The base is made of plywood and HDF and contains homemade t-tracks. The adjustable arm (a circle-cutting jig) is made from plywood and HDF.

Ellipse router jig properties:

Material: Plywood, HDF, brass rod
Total dimensions: 20m x 20cm x 1,6cm
The smallest possible cut ellipse – semi-minor axis = 10,5cm
The largest possible cut ellipse – depends on the possibilities of the circle-cutting jig
DIY T-tracks

NOTE: The ellipse jig baseboard is made of a narrower HDF board (0,4cm) with custom t-tracks so that the maximum router bit length can be used. Nevertheless, the base can be also made from a 9mm or 12mm plywood board with a standard miter track.

How to Cut an Oval in Wood with an Ellipse Jig

Step 1: Cut the Ellipse Jig Baseplate

Cut a square baseplate (20cm x 20cm) from HDF. To make the cuts I am using a straight-edge circular saw guide.

TIP: Use a sacrificial board while making the cuts.

Step 2: Cut the T-track Runners

Cut several plywood strips (4cm x 2cm x 0,9cm) for the runners. I used a circular saw guide and a mini crosscut sled to achieve the exact dimensions.

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Step 3: Assemble the Baseplate Parts

Cut 4 plywood squares (9cm x 9cm x 1,2cm) and align them with the corners of the bottom plate. Use the cut runners as separators. Once finished, glue all the squares to the baseplate.

NOTE: Make sure the glue does not get in the slots.

Step 4: Make the T-tracks

Mark the t-tracks on the base plate and cut the slots using an exact-width dado cutting jig. The depth of the cut is equal to the thickness of the HDF strips (3mm).

TIP: Make shallow passes until you get the depth right. The strips need to be level with the surface.

At this point test how the runners slide in the slots. They might get stuck a bit at the intersection of the tracks. It is very important the runners slide perfectly at all times.

Sand the corners a bit at the intersection with sandpaper. Also, round the edges of the runners. Test and try how much is necessary to sand off.

Cut the HDF Strips (9,5m x 1,5cm x 0,3cm) and miter the corners. Then, glue the strips on the base. Make sure the glue does not get in the tracks. Additionally, secure the strips with screws.

Cut the corners of the ellipse jig to make it lighter and make space for cutting.

Step 5: Finish the T-track Runners

Insert the runners in the tracks and glue narrow HDF strips on top of them. Drill a 4mm hole for the pivoting pins in the center of the runner.

NOTE: The strips will increase the height of the runner increasing the depth for the pivoting pins.

Step 6: Make T-track Bolts for the Router Circle Jig

Cut 2 wooden strips (3cm x 1,5cm x 0,9cm) and drill a 4mm and a 6mm hole in them. Cut a hexagon around the 6mm hole and use epoxy to glue a bolt in it. Also, use epoxy to glue a brass pivoting pin in the 4mm hole.

NOTE: The brass pin and the bolt must be pointing in the opposite direction.

Mount the t-track bolts on the circle cutting jig and fix them with washers and wing nuts.

Step 7: Add a Leveling Support

Cut a wooden piece of the same height as the oval jig and attach it under the router of the circle jig. You can either use screws to attach it directly to the router or you can attach it to the circle jig base.

Below is a picture of a finished router oval cutting jig. Together with a circle-cutting jig you will be able to cut clean ovals. The maximum size of the oval cut depends on the maximum settings of the circle jig.

How to Cut an Oval in Wood

The steps provided below describe how to set up an ellipse jig and how to cut an oval/ellipse in wood using a trim router. Use the right router bit for the job. For a better understanding of how to set it up and how to use it, refer to the video included.

How to setup and use an ellipse cutting jig

Attach the ellipse jig to the workpiece either with double-sided tape or with screws.
Set the track runners in position to set the minor and major axis of the ellipse.
Set the pivoting pins on the circle-cutting jig to set the ellipse size.
Attach the circle-cutting jig to the ellipse jig base.
Use the right router bit.
Set the depth of the cut.
Slowly make the cut.
Use the necessary protective equipment.

TIP: Support the front of the circle-cutting jig so that it is level with the oval-cutting jig base. Add a few additional supports if you want to cut larger ovals.

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How to Cut an Oval with a Router

Jigs used for this project:

Frequently Asked Questions

Check out the FAQs below to clear any doubts around cutting ovals in wood.

What router bit to cut an oval in wood?

To cut an oval in wood, you have two main router bit options: a straight router bit, which is more affordable and suitable for basic oval shapes, and a spiral router bit, which offers better quality and precision, making it ideal for intricate and detailed oval designs. Both types of router bits can achieve excellent results.

What are the different methods of cutting an oval in wood?

There are several methods to cut an oval in wood. You can use a router with a template or jig to guide the bit along the desired oval shape. Alternatively, you can use a scroll saw or a coping saw for more intricate and precise cuts. Hand tools like a coping saw are also an option for smaller projects.

What are wooden ovals used for?

Wooden ovals serve various purposes in woodworking. They are commonly used as decorative elements in furniture, cabinets, and wooden wall hangings, adding a touch of elegance and sophistication. Wooden ovals can also be incorporated into table designs, creating unique and eye-catching pieces for your home or office.

READ NEXT:

How to Cut a Square Hole in Wood

This post How to Cut an Oval in Wood with an Ellipse Jig first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

Make a Drill Press Table for a Drill Stand (Replaceable Table)

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 08 Dec 2022 07:56:10 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

Make a Drill Press Table for a Drill Stand (Replaceable Table)

Having a drill press table is critical for anyone who has a drill press in the workshop and wants to achieve the best results in woodworking. A drill press table makes the work so much easier and helps ensure accurate results, especially when used with additional accessories such as table t-tracks, a table fence, or hold-down clamps.

There are a few ways how to attach a drill press table to a drill press. It can be mounted on an already existing table or attached to the base of the drill press. In this case, the drill press table forms the entire base of the drill press stand. It is removable and easily replaceable.

The drill press table built in this article is an add-on for a drill press stand I built earlier. It forms the base of the drill press stand, adds robustness, and improves stability. The table contains built-in DIY t-tracks and can be enhanced with additional accessories such as a table fence, stop blocks, or hold-down clamps.

The table is attached to the stand with screws which can be quickly removed, allowing the stand to be used independently. The entire build is made of Baltic birch and HDF, it is not too heavy, which makes it an easily portable solution that can be used anywhere in the workshop.

In this article, I will show you how to make a replaceable drill press table, how to attach it to a drill press, and how to use it and we will also look at accessories that can be used with the table.

Let’s get right into it.

RELATED:

DIY Replaceable Drill Press Table Video

If you want to know how to make a drill press table for a drill stand, watch the video below for a step-by-step guide.

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Drill Press Stand Table Plans
The Material you will need
FAQ Drill Press Table
1. How big should a drill press table be?
2. How to add T-tracks to a drill press table?
How to Make a Drill Press Table (for a Drill Stand)
1. Step 1: Prepare the Drill Stand Base
2. Step 2: Cut the Shape of the Drill Press Table
3. Step 3: Attach the Table Baseboards Together
4. Step 4: Make the T-tracks
5. Step 5: Attach the Drill Press Stand to the Table
6. Step 6: Make a Simple Drill Press Table Fence
How to Setup and Use a Drill Press Table for a Drill Stand

*Safety is your responsibility. Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first!

Drill Press Stand Table Plans

Download the Drill Press Stand Table Plans here

Download plans here

What you'll need to make a DIY Drill Press Table

Drill Press Table
Plywood drill stand – 210 mm x 300 mm x 12 mm – https://amzn.to/3TPULp2
Plywood boards – (350 mm x 400 mm x 12 mm; 350 mm x 400 mm x 9 mm)

DIY T-tracks
HDF Strips – 330 mm x 60 mm x 35 mm

DIY T-track Fence
Plywood – 330 mm x 9 mm x 35 mm
Plywood – 330 mm x 10 mm x 6 mm
HDF Strips – 330 mm x 13,5 mm x 4 mm
DIY T-track bolts

Check all the Tools I Use

Tools:
Corded Hand Drill / Drill Press – https://amzn.to/3NSA3Bo (Bosch GSB 13 Review)
Trim Router – https://amzn.to/3HbQcOg
Hand Drill – https://amzn.to/3HqLEnH
One Hand Clamps – https://amzn.to/48jGxkZ
Spring Clamps – https://amzn.to/41Nuh9D
F-Clamps – https://amzn.to/48ArzY1
Chisels – https://amzn.to/3tHNJrT
Marking Gauge (Make your own)
Mini F- Clamps – https://amzn.to/3RJwNJK
Machinist Square / Speed Square

Other:
Double-Sided Woodworking Tape – https://amzn.to/3tPMGpM
Wood Glue – https://amzn.to/48ltKhJ
Forstner Bits – https://amzn.to/3Hd1aDb
Straight router bit – Straight Router Bit
Handle
Wood Screws, Washers, Bolts – https://amzn.to/41PodgQ
T-nuts, Wing Nuts
T-Track Clamps – https://amzn.to/3tEKaCW

We may earn an affiliate commission when you buy something through our retail links. As an Amazon Associate AllFlavor Workshop earns from qualifying purchases.

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How big should a drill press table be?

A drill press table does not have a standardized size. The size of the table mainly depends on the size of the drill press, the tasks you want to perform, and the accessories the table should have. A sufficient drill press table size can range from 25x30cm to 50x60cm.

A drill press table with dimensions smaller than 25x30cm may not be sufficient due to its limited work surface. A table larger than 50x60cm may be unnecessarily big and take up a lot of space. The optimal dimensions of a drill press table would be around 40x50cm.

How to add T-tracks to a drill press table?

If you want to get the most out of your drill press table, use a table that is equipped with additional accessories such as table t-tracks, a table fence, and hold-down clamps. These table add-ons will make your work easier and help ensure better results.

There are a few ways how to add t-tracks to a drill press table. First, you can cut a slot in the table and screw a shop-made miter track into it. Secondly, you can directly cut a slot in the table with a specialized t-slot router bit. Thirdly you can make a custom t-track by routing a few slots in the table and gluing multiple layers of wood on top of each other.

Read this article, if you want to know in detail how to build DIY T-tracks – 3 Ways How to Make DIY T-tracks & T-Slots

Let's start building!

The drill press table is attached to the drill press stand with flat-head bolts. The body is made from plywood and the t-tracks are from HDF strips.

Drill Press Table properties:

Material: Plywood, HDF
Total dimensions: 21m x 30cm x 2,1cm
DIY T-tracks for additional accessories

This is a project for woodworking beginners and can be finished during the weekend. If you are looking for a starter drill press table check this article: make a simple drill press table

How to Make a Drill Press Table (for a Drill Stand)

Step 1: Prepare the Drill Stand Base

Remove the base from the drill stand. Use double-sided tape and attach the base to a workbench.

TIP: Use a pad or a sacrificial board underneath the stand base.

1. Cut a Circle in the Center of the Base

Mark the drill position on the base and cut a ⌀6mm circle using a router circle cutting jig. You can also use a hole saw if you don’t have a router. (Don’t throw away the cut circle)

2. Mark Holes on the Base for Attachment

Mark the positions in the corners of the base (2cm from each side) and drill holes with a 2mm drill bit.

Step 2: Cut the Shape of the Drill Press Table

Cut 2 baseboards for the drill press table (12mm, 9mm thick).

Position the drill stand base on the baseboard (12mm) and cut a rectangle into it so that the stand base fits exactly into the cut shape.

To cut the exact shape in the table I am using a router dado jig with stoppers. As the name suggests, it is more intended to cut dados and grooves, but in this case, it will work great.

Clean the corners with a chisel.

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Step 3: Attach the Table Baseboards Together

Glue the drill press table baseboards together. Additionally use screws to fix them tightly.

NOTE: Be careful where you drill. Drill the screws in places where you will not cut the slots for t-tracks.

Insert the drill stand into the table and see how it fits. Make adjustments as necessary. The drill press table and the drill stand base need to be flush.

Step 4: Make the T-tracks

Draw the t-tracks on the drill press table and use a dado jig to cut all the slots. You can find detailed measurements on the t-tacks in the following article – 3 Ways How to Make DIY T-tracks & T-Slots

Glue HDF strips in the slots to finish the t-tracks (optionally, you can use screws). Make sure the strips are flush with the surface.

NOTE: Also, make sure the glue does not get in the slots. It is quite hard to clean the tracks afterward.

Step 5: Attach the Drill Press Stand to the Table

Place the drill stand on the table and transfer the pre-drilled holes from the stand to the table. Drill ⌀20mm (Forstner bit) and ⌀7.5mm holes from the bottom of the table and insert t-nuts. Make sure the t-nuts are flush with the surface.

Countersink the screws on the drill stand and attach the stand to the table.

Step 6: Make a Simple Drill Press Table Fence

Cut all the wood strips for the table fence (plywood, HDF). Glue the layers on top of each other and use a straightedge or a straight piece of wood as a guide.

NOTE: The slot in the fence needs to be wide enough to accommodate a t-track bolt (I am using homemade t-track bolts).

Below is a picture of a finished drill press table with t-tracks. A great add-on for a homemade drill press stand.

How to Setup and Use a Drill Press Table for a Drill Stand

The steps provided below describe how to mount a drill press table on a drill press and how to use it. For a better understanding of how to set it up, refer to the video above.

How to mount a drill press table on a drill press stand

Place the drill press stand on the drill press table making sure the screw holes overlap
Fix the stand to the table with flat-head screws
Attach the drill press to a workbench with clamps
Mount the table fence on the t-tracks using t-bolts
Place the workpiece on the table against the fence
Set the stoppers to the desired position and secure the workpiece with hold-down clamps
Use the necessary protective equipment
Use the right drill bit for the job
Slowly make the cut

TIP: Place a sacrificial piece of wood between the workpiece and the drill press table. The sacrificial block will protect the table and the drill bit from wear.

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Replacement Drill Press Table

Jigs used for this project:

This post Make a Drill Press Table for a Drill Stand (Replaceable Table) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

How To Make a Tenon Jig for a Router Table

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 01 Dec 2022 07:37:15 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

How To Make a Tenon Jig for a Router Table

The mortise and tenon joint is one of the strongest and most used joints in woodworking. The joint provides a robust and tight connection that may last for hundreds of years. Its uses are wide-ranging from making tables and chairs to doors, frames, and cabinets.

There are multiple ways how to make a tenon. You can cut it on a table saw using a crosscut sled or a dedicated tenoning jig, you can make it the traditional way using a chisel and a saw, or you can use a router together with a tenon jig. In this article, you will learn how to make a tenon jig for a router table.

The tenoning jig built in this article is designed for a benchtop router table. It is mainly intended for crosscutting and making tenons on narrow wood pieces. The narrower the wood piece, the harder it is to keep the stock perpendicular to the router table fence. The tenoning jig holds the stock firmly at a 90-degree angle to the fence and the router bit ensuring the cuts are clean, square, and precise.

The jig works as a tenon sled for a router table. It can slide in a miter slot or can be used against the side of the table as a reference. To achieve the best results, it is good to use a sacrificial block to prevent wood tearing and blowout.

The build is made of Baltic birch plywood and HDF. All the materials are easily available.

Read on to find out how to make a tenon sled for a router table, how to set it up, and how to use it.

RELATED:

DIY Router Table Tenon Jig Video

If you want to build a router tenon sled, watch the video below with a step-by-step guide and detailed steps.

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Router Tenon Jig Video
Router Table Tenon Jig Plans
The Material you will need
Frequently Asked Questions
1. What is the mortise and what is the tenon?
2. What are the different ways of creating a mortise and tenon?
3. How do you make a tenon with a router?
How to Make a Tenon Jig for a Router Table
1. Step 1: Make the Sled
2. Step 2: Make the Back Fence
3. Step 3: Make the Front Fence
4. Step 4: Make a Hold-Down Clamp
How to Use a Tenoning Jig for a Router Table
Woodworking Jigs used for the project

*Safety is your responsibility. Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first!

Router Table Tenon Jig Plans

Download the Router Table Tenon Jig Plans here

Download plans here

What you'll need to make a Router Table Tenon Sled

Router Tenon Jig Base
HDF base board – 290 mm x 170 mm x 5 mm
Spruce wood Strip – 260 mm x 18 mm x 28 mm
Beechwood Strip – 260 mm x 7 mm x 6 mm

Tenon Jig Back Fence
Plywood – 45 mm x 170 mm x 12 mm – – https://amzn.to/3TPULp2
HDF Strips – 8 mm x 170 mm x 4 mm
DIY T-track bolts
DIY T-tracks
DIY Hold-down Clamp

Tenon Jig Front Fence
Aluminum flat bar- 70 mm x 30 mm x 2 mm
DIY T-track bolt

Tools:
Circular Saw – https://amzn.to/4aMD0xg
Trim Router – https://amzn.to/3HbQcOg
Hand Drill – https://amzn.to/3HqLEnH
Corded Hand Drill – https://amzn.to/3NSA3Bo
Proxxon Mini Table Saw
Angle Grinder – https://amzn.to/48K2klD
One Hand Clamps – https://amzn.to/48jGxkZ
Spring Clamps – https://amzn.to/41Nuh9D
F-Clamps – https://amzn.to/48ArzY1
Machinist Square / Speed Square

Other:
Wood Glue – https://amzn.to/48ltKhJ
Epoxy – https://amzn.to/3tJ5R4L
Straight router bit – https://amzn.to/3NQNDVX
Wood Screws, Washers, Bolts, T-nuts – https://amzn.to/41PodgQ
Threaded rod 6mm – https://amzn.to/48oo6vq

Check all the Tools I Use

We may earn an affiliate commission when you buy something through our retail links. As an Amazon Associate AllFlavor Workshop earns from qualifying purchases.

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What is the mortise and what is the tenon?

A mortise is an entrance, the hole of the joint. The tenon is the protrusion that fits into the mortise creating the joint.

What are the different ways of creating a mortise and tenon?

There are multiple ways how to create the mortise and tenon joint. Traditionally, the mortise and tenon joint is made by using hand tools such as a marking gauge, a wood chisel, a hand saw, and a mallet.

With the advent of modern electric tools, you can also make the joint using a table saw, a trim router, or a band saw. You can equip the tools with woodworking jigs that allow for repeatable cuts, thus allowing you to make the joints faster with the same quality.

How do you make a tenon with a router?

There are two main approaches to making a tenon with a router. You can either use the router as a stationary tool, such as a router table, and move the workpiece against the router, or use the router as a moving component and fix the workpiece.

Both approaches will use different types of woodworking jigs. In the first case, when the router is fixed, you can cut a tenon using a router tenon sled. In the second case, you can cut a tenon using a stationary mortise and tenoning jig.

Let's start building!

The router tenon sled consists of 3 main parts – the sled, the back fence with securing elements, and the front fence. The sled is made of HDF, the back fence of plywood, and the front fence of spruce wood.

Router Tenon Sled properties:

Material: HDF, Plywood, Spruce wood
Total dimensions: 29m x 17cm x 8,5cm
Back fence with T-tracks for additional accessories
Maximum adjustment distance of clamping width: 14cm
Can be used to cut short pieces as well as long pieces

NOTE: The base sled is made of a narrower HDF board (29m x 17cm x 0,5cm) with a custom t-track so that the maximum bit length can be used. Nevertheless, you can also make the base from a 9mm or 12mm plywood board with a standard t-track miter track.

This is a project for a beginner/advanced woodworker. Many areas require precision and increased attention to ensure an accurate and clean cut.

How to Make a Tenon Jig for a Router Table

Step 1: Make the Sled

Measure and cut the HDF base board to size (29m x 17,5cm x 0,5cm). To cut the board I used a circular saw straight edge guide. But if you have a table saw you can use a crosscut sled instead.

1. Cut the t-track

Cut a t-track in the base board. Use an adjustable router dado jig to cut an exact-width dado. Make sure the aluminum bar is flush with the base board.

NOTE: I am using a 5mm thick HDF board. That is because I want to use the maximum length of the router bit. Although this makes the build a bit more complicated. Using a thicker board would make it easier to create the t-track.

2. Attach the guiding fence

Cut 2 wooden strips and glue them to the bottom of the base. One (spruce), that runs along the edge of the router table, and the other (beech) that runs in the router table slot. Use flush head screws, if you are going to additionally secure the side guide.

Measure and attach the guides so that it extends slightly over the router bit. Once the glue dries cut off the wood excess.

NOTE: You can use any type of wood. I used the leftovers I found in the shop.

Step 2: Make the Back Fence

Glue 4 plywood strips together and make a t-track. You can easily route the slots on the router table. Make sure the front side is straight and perpendicular to the base.

Glue the back fence to the base board. Use a square to make sure it is perpendicular to the cut edge (perpendicular to the router bit).

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Step 3: Make the Front Fence

Cut the aluminum bar to size and round the edges for a better slide in the track. Make a t-track bolt and glue it to the aluminum bar with epoxy to ensure a firm connection (wood glue is not sufficient).

NOTE: Make sure the height of the bar and the bolt is lower than the height of the base board.

Cut the fence to size a drill a hole in for the t-track bolt. Mount it on the base and secure it with a wing nut.

Step 4: Make a Hold-Down Clamp

Cut a plywood piece to size, add a t-nut for attachment, a cut a slot for adjustability.

Mount the piece on the back fence using a t-track bolt and a wing nut. Run through the t-nut a threaded rod with a permanently attached wing nut at the (top) end and attach another piece of wood on the other side of the rod for pushing. You can add a non-slip mate to the bottom of the piece for better fix and security.

The push mechanism is the same as in the case of this wooden vise or this angle clamp.

Below is a picture of a finished router table tenon sled. A great jig for cutting tenons on large as well as small workpieces.

How to Use a Tenoning Jig for a Router Table

The steps provided below describe how to set up a tenon jig for a router table and how to use it. Make sure you are using all the necessary protective equipment. Especially safety glasses and a face mask. When using a router table, chips may fly away at high speeds, which can cause serious injury.

For a better understanding of how to set up and use the jig, refer to the video above.

How to use a tenon jig for a router table

Mount the tenon sled on the router table
Place the workpiece on the sled and push it against the back fence
Set the stopper to the desired position
Secure the workpiece with a hold-down clamp
Secure the workpiece with the front fence
Use the right router bit for the job
Slowly make the cut

TIP: To achieve the best result when cutting use a sacrificial piece of wood. Place it between the workpiece and the back fence. The sacrificial block will help to prevent a blowout at the back of the workpiece.

Router Table Tenon Sled Improvements

An oscillating tool such as a trim router can cause serious injury, so all safety precautions must be observed. In particular, it is necessary to protect the eyes, or possibly the entire face. Wood chips flying away from the router reach high speeds and can fly up to a distance of several meters.

You can add dust-proof plexiglass on the side of the jig right above the router bit to prevent wood chips from flying in your face. Also, you can add additional hold-down clamps to securely fix the cut piece in position.

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Homemade Tenon Jig for Router Table

Jigs used for this project:

This post How To Make a Tenon Jig for a Router Table first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

How To Make an Angle Grinder Stand (Perfect for Metal Cutting)

About the author, Lukas — Mon, 21 Nov 2022 09:52:29 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

How To Make an Angle Grinder Stand (Perfect for Metal Cutting)

I needed to cut several uniform metal tubes and a few aluminum guide rails. At first, I used a hacksaw, but after a while, I found out that this is not the best way. It took too long to cut plus the edges were crooked and the cut was rough.

So, I decided to make an angle grinder stand. Together with the right discs, I was able to quickly and repetitively make uniform cuts. The cuts are perfectly 90 degrees and the edges are clean. In addition, I am using the grinder stand to make beveled or rounded edges.

The entire build is made of Baltic birch plywood. It is portable, can be clamped down on a workbench, and depending on the disc used, the tool can be used on different types of material.

One of the main advantages of an angle grinder stand is the repeatability and ease with which you will be able to make cuts.

The base plate is equipped with t-tracks that allow mounting for other accessories such as hold-down clamps, a fence, stop blocks, and others.

Read on to find out how to build a homemade angle grinder stand, how to set it up, how to use it, and what accessories to use.

RELATED:

DIY Angle Grinder Stand Video

If you want to see how it is done, watch the video below for a step-by-step guide on how to make an angle grinder stand.

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DIY Angle Grinder Stand Video
The Material you will need
Angle Grinder FAQ
1. Can an angle grinder start a fire?
2. How large should an angle grinder stand be?
How to Make an Angle Grinder Stand
1. Step 1: Make the Stands
2. Step 2: Make the Angle Grinder Support
3. Step 3: Attach the Angle Grinder to the Support
4. Step 4: Attach the Stand to the Base Plate
5. Step 5: Make Base Plate Addons
How to Use an Angle Grinder Stand
1. Angle Grinder Stand Improvements
Jigs used for the project

*Safety is your responsibility. Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first!

What you'll need to make a Homemade Angle Grinder Stand

Angle Grinder Jig Base
Plywood – 350 mm x 300 mm x 21 mm
MDF Strips – 13 mm x 300 mm x 4 mm
Metal Plates – 2 mm x 110 mm x 1 mm
DIY T-track bolts
DIY T-track Fence
DIY T-track Hold Down Clamps
Shop-made Hold Down Clamps – https://amzn.to/3RJPEEf
T-Track Clamps – https://amzn.to/3tEKaCW

Angle Grinder Holders
Plywood Stands – 80 mm x 60 mm x 140 (85) mm – https://amzn.to/3TPULp2
Plywood Holders – 60 mm x 55 mm x 30 mm

Check all the Tools I Use

Tools:
Circular Saw – https://amzn.to/4aMD0xg
Angle Grinder – https://amzn.to/48K2klD
Corded Hand Drill (drill press) – https://amzn.to/3NSA3Bo
Trim Router – https://amzn.to/3HbQcOg
Hand Drill – https://amzn.to/3HqLEnH
One Hand Clamps – https://amzn.to/48jGxkZ
Spring Clamps – https://amzn.to/41Nuh9D
F-Clamps – https://amzn.to/48ArzY1
Machinist Square / Speed Square
Center Hole Punch – https://amzn.to/48Fq7mv

Other:
Wood Glue – https://amzn.to/48ltKhJ
Epoxy – https://amzn.to/3tJ5R4L
Spring – https://amzn.to/48lACvF
Router bits – https://amzn.to/3NQNDVX
Forstner bits – 20mm – https://amzn.to/3Hd1aDb
Wood Screws, Washers, T-nuts – https://amzn.to/41PodgQ
Bearings M6 – https://amzn.to/3tHSNN2
Aluminum tube – inner dia 6mm – https://amzn.to/48KT8xa

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Can an angle grinder start a fire?

Yes, an angle grinder may start a fire. When using an angle grinder (including an angle grinder stand) make sure the work area is clean, and there are no flammable or combustible materials around. Also, take into account, that sparks and metal filings flying away from the grinding wheel reach high speeds and can fly up to a distance of several meters. They can reach a distance of up to 8 meters with ease.

Proper face and eye protection is a must when working with an angle grinder. A collection box attached to an angle grinder stand will significantly help with the capture of metal filings and sparks.

How large should an angle grinder stand be?

An angle grinder stand does not need to be necessarily large. However, the base plate needs to be large enough to comfortably accommodate the cut material. Also, the base plate should be equipped with t-tacks, an adjustable fence, and a fixing mechanism. An angle grinder stand with dimensions of 35x30cm will comfortably provide for these needs.

Let's start building!

The angle grinder stand consists of 3 main parts – the base plate, the stand, and the grinder attachment. All the parts are made of Baltic birch plywood.

Angle grinder stand properties:

Overall dimensions: 48cm x 28cm x 13m
Possible to use with a drill press vise
Base plate with t-tracks for other accessories
Hold-down clamps and fence to fix the material
Maximum clamping width: 10cm
90-degree/ 45-degree angle cuts

This is a project for an advanced woodworker. Many areas require precision and increased attention to ensure an accurate and clean cut.

NOTE: The angle grinder cutting stand is primarily designed for a Makita corded angle grinder. Nevertheless, the attachment is adjustable and can easily accommodate other types of angle grinders. It is suitable for angle grinders with side-threaded holes.

How to Make an Angle Grinder Stand

Step 1: Make the Stands

The stands are made of plywood, they are L-shaped for better stability and attached to the base plate with bolts and t-nuts. Each stand has a different height- one is lower so that the angle grinder can move up and down without difficulty.

First cut all the pieces to size and drill 3 ⌀6mm holes in the base (horizontal) pieces.

Drill a 20mm hole in the vertical pieces using a Forstner bit (the depth of the cut equals the width of the bearings). Then drill an 8mm hole all the way through. Make sure the drilled holes on each of the parts are exactly the same height. A drill press table with a fence is best for this.

(Optionally, you can route a slot in the higher part. It can be used to fix the angle grinder stand in a certain position.)

Glue the bearings in the holes using epoxy. Make sure the bearings are perpendicular to the surface.

TIP: Insert a rod in the bearing and use a machinist angle to ensure perpendicularity.

Glue all the pieces of the stand together, add side supports, and fix all the pieces with screws.

Step 2: Make the Angle Grinder Support

Draw the design on a plywood desk (30cm x 20cm x 2,4cm) and cut out the shape. I am using a circular saw and a trim router but a jigsaw would be sufficient.

Drill an 8mm hole to attach the support to the stands and insert a hollow rod with an inner diameter of 6mm.

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Step 3: Attach the Angle Grinder to the Support

To attach the angle grinder to the back support I am using the side-threaded holes on the grinder. The attachments are adjustable and they can accommodate angle grinders of different sizes.

Assemble the attachments and fix them to the back support and the angle grinder with bolts and washers.

NOTE: If your angle grinder does not have side-threaded holes you can use a metal tightening strap and fix the grinder to the back support.

Before tightening the bolts, support the body of the grinder with a piece of wood to ensure it is parallel to the back support. (The aim is for the grinder to be perpendicular to the base plate).

Step 4: Attach the Stand to the Base Plate

Place the stands and the angle grinder support on the base plate. Mark the position of the stands with an awl and drill all the holes with a 2mm drill bit first. Turn the base plate upside down, and install T-nuts on the marked places.

Attach the stands to the base plate and mount the angle grinder support. Before tightening the screws make sure the stand is perpendicular to the base. Secure the stand and the grinder support by running a bolt/threaded rod through the aluminum rod. Tighten with a nut.

TIP: If the grinder support is not perpendicular add a few shims of paper under one of the stands

Optionally, you can add an extension spring to the angle grinder support and connect it to the stands. Try several types of strings to get the best resistance.

Step 5: Make Base Plate Addons

1. Base Plate Cut Point Protection

Route a slot in the base plate at the cut point to allow the cutting disc to dive deeper. Make the slot a bit wider to accommodate discs of different widths.

To protect the base plate from burn marks, route a shallow slot on each side of the main slot and glue a metal plate using epoxy.

2. Base Plate T-tracks

Add two t-tacks to the base plate. You will be able to mount additional accessories such as a fence, hold-down clamps, stoppers, and others. There are a few ways how to make t-tracks. My preferred method is these cut grooves.

3. Adjustable T-track Fence and Hold-down Clamps

To fix the cut piece in the position you can use a fence together with hold-down clamps. This combination will allow you to secure flat bars as well as round bars. The adjustable fence is made from MDF and hold-down clamps from plywood.

Take a look at this article if you want to know how to build the clamps: Simple drill press table and hold-down clamps

Below is a picture of a finished angle grinder stand. A great jig for a workshop, especially if you are planning to use an angle grinder to cleanly cut or grind metal.

How to Use an Angle Grinder Stand

The steps provided below describe how to set up and use an angle grinder stand. Make sure you are using all the necessary protective equipment. Especially safety glasses and a face mask. When using an angle grinder, chips fly at high speeds, which can cause serious injury.

For a better understanding of how to use the angle grinder stand, refer to the video attached.

How to use an angle grinder stand

Fix the angle grinder stand to a workbench using clamps
Mount the grinder on the stand using side-threaded holes
Tighten the screws to keep the grinder in position
Use the correct cutting blade for the job
Mount the fence on the base plate and set the desired angle
Place the cut material on the base plate, push it against the fence and secure it with clamps
Slowly make the cut

TIP: Whether you are cutting or grinding make sure you are using the right disc for the job. Every material requires a different type of cutting wheel. Using the right blade will ensure clean cuts and save you a lot of time.

Angle Grinder Stand Improvements

You can add the following addons and attachments to get the most out of your angle grinder stand.

Angle Grinder base plate with T-tracks
Adjustable T-Track Fence for 90-degree and 45-degree angle cuts
T-Track Hold-Down Clamps
Portable Drill Press Vise

For more information check the addons in this blog post: DIY Drill Press Stand for Hand Drill

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Homemade Angle Grinder Stand

Jigs used for this project:

This post How To Make an Angle Grinder Stand (Perfect for Metal Cutting) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

How to Build an Adjustable DIY Dowel Jig (For Edge & Face Joints)

About the author, Lukas — Mon, 31 Oct 2022 09:23:47 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

How to Build an Adjustable DIY Dowel Jig (For Edge & Face Joints)

Some time ago, I built my first doweling jig — a self-centering doweling jig. Having a dowel jig in the shop is incredibly useful, but that first version had one big limitation: it only allowed me to make edge-to-edge joints. While it worked well for certain tasks, it couldn’t handle face joints.

That limitation, along with the need for better versatility and accuracy, is exactly why I decided to build this adjustable DIY dowel jig.

This upgraded design not only covers all the joint types the self-centering version can handle, but also allows for face joints, offers easier setup, and provides more precise results. Once you start using it, you’ll notice how much faster and cleaner your dowel joinery becomes.

If you’re serious about adding strong, clean joints to your woodworking projects, this jig is a must-have addition to your workshop gear.

RELATED:

How to Make a Self-Centering Doweling Jig – Great for edge-to-edge joints, but if you also want face joint capability and more accuracy, the adjustable jig in this article is the way to go.

Adjustable DIY Dowel Jig Video

If you want to see exactly how this jig comes together, watch the step-by-step video below. I walk you through every stage of the build so you can follow along in your own workshop.

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Adjustable DIY Dowel Jig Video
Dowel Jig Plans
The Material you will need
General Questions
1. How far apart should dowels be placed?
2. What are the disadvantages of a dowel joint?
How to Make an Adjustable Dowel Jig
1. Step 1: Make the Base of the Dowel Jig
2. Step 2: Drill the Holes in the Dowel Jig
3. Step 3: Cut Slots in the Dowel Jig
4. Step 4: Make the Adjustable Fence
5. Step 5: Cut the Shape of the Dowel Jig
6. Step 6: Insert the Centering Pins
How to Use a Dowel Jig
My Take
Jigs used for the project

*Safety is your responsibility. Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first!

Adjustable Dowel Jig Plans

I’ve put together detailed, downloadable plans for this adjustable dowel jig. They include precise measurements, materials list, step-by-step instructions, and build tips — making it easy to follow along and get accurate results.

Download the Dowel Jig Plans here

Download plans here

What You’ll Need to Make a DIY Adjustable Dowel Jig

Dowel Jig Base

Plywood – 220 mm x 90 mm x 12 mm – https://amzn.to/3TPULp2
MDF – 220 mm x 90 mm x 5 mm
Aluminum Hollow Rod – outer ⌀8mm, inner ⌀6mm – https://amzn.to/3vn0UyZ
Dowels – ⌀8mm – https://amzn.to/3Ha4Up3

Dowel Jig Fence

Plywood – 120 mm x 30 mm x 12 mm
MDF – 110 mm x 20 mm x 5 mm

Check all the Tools I Use

Tools:

Cord Drill (Drill press) – https://amzn.to/3NSA3Bo
Hand Drill – https://amzn.to/3HqLEnH
Trim Router – https://amzn.to/3HbQcOg
Table Saw / Mini Table Saw (Optional) – https://amzn.to/47mWiGf
Narex Chisels – https://amzn.to/3tHNJrT
One Hand Clamps – https://amzn.to/48jGxkZ
Spring Clamps – https://amzn.to/41Nuh9D
F-Clamps – https://amzn.to/48ArzY1
Machinist Square / Speed Square
Center Punch – https://amzn.to/48Fq7mv

Other:

Wood Glue – https://amzn.to/48ltKhJ
Epoxy – https://amzn.to/3tJ5R4L
Drill bits – 8mm/6mm – https://amzn.to/48Kaaf7
Router bits – 6mm – https://amzn.to/3NQNDVX
M6 Bolts, M6 Wing nut, Washer

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Finished adjustable DIY dowel jig ready for edge-to-edge and face joints — a versatile upgrade for precise dowel joinery in any workshop.

Common Questions When Using a Dowel Jig

Question	Answer
How far apart should dowels be placed?	Spacing depends on material density and thickness. Denser materials require more space between dowels to avoid splitting. The first dowel should be placed ~30 mm (1 ¼”) from the end of the board.
Edge-to-edge joints	Leave about 25 cm (10″) between dowels.
Face joints	Leave about 5–8 cm (2–3″) between dowels for strength.
What are the disadvantages of a dowel joint?	Possible misalignment if holes are not drilled precisely; joint strength is lower than a mortise and tenon; joints may loosen over time as dowels shear or wear.
Why is accuracy important?	Even a small misalignment will cause the joint to weaken and not fit properly. Using precise marking tools, a drill press, or a good drilling guide is key.

Tip: The adjustable dowel jig covered in this tutorial makes precise hole placement easier, helping to avoid many of these common issues.

Want to learn more about dowel joinery or see a different style of jig? Check out my guide on How to Make a Self-Centering Dowel Jig, where I cover related topics like:

How deep should a dowel hole be?
Are dowels supposed to be loose?
How to use a self-centering dowel jig

Let’s Start Building!

The adjustable dowel jig consists of three main parts:

The body – forms the base and houses the drilling bushings.
The adjustable fence – lets you fine-tune the jig’s position for different joint types.
The self-centering pins – ensure precise alignment on both workpieces.

All parts are made from Baltic birch plywood and MDF. Baltic birch is a great choice — it’s strong, durable, and has a clean grain that’s perfect for precision jigs.

Dimensions:
The finished jig measures 22 cm x 9 cm x 2.8 cm and is designed for 6 mm dowels.

💡 Tip: For the best accuracy, use high-quality plywood and ensure all cuts are square. Even small misalignments can affect joint quality.

How to Make an Adjustable DIY Dowel Jig (Step-by-Step)

Step 1: Make the Base of the Dowel Jig

First, measure and cut the base pieces:

Plywood – 220 mm × 90 mm × 12 mm
MDF – 220 mm × 90 mm × 5 mm

Glue the plywood and MDF together to create a solid and stable base.

I used my mini table saw crosscut sled for cutting—this ensures perfectly straight and clean cuts. The accuracy here is important because any unevenness in the base will affect the alignment of the jig later on.

Step 2: Drill the Holes in the Dowel Jig

Drilling the center hole and the holes for the centering pins is the most important step of the project. The centers of all holes must be perfectly aligned on a single line—this directly impacts the jig’s precision.

⚠ Accuracy Tip:
If the holes are slightly off, the jig will still work but may require sanding or small adjustments to correct alignment. If they’re far off, there’s no way to fix it—you’ll need to make a new base. Taking your time here will pay off.

Tips for Perfect Hole Alignment:

Use a marking gauge to mark precise hole positions.
Mark each hole with an awl to prevent the drill bit from wandering.
Use brad point drill bits for clean and accurate entry.
A drill press stand will give the best accuracy, but careful hand drilling is possible.

1. Drill the Holes for the Centering Pins

Mark the centers and drill with an 8 mm brad point bit.

2. Drill the Center Hole

Mark the center hole, drill it out with the same 8 mm brad point bit, then apply epoxy in the hole and insert an aluminum tube (a steel tube works too). Wipe away any excess epoxy and ensure none seeps into the bushing.

Step 3: Cut Slots in the Dowel Jig

Cut a 6 mm slot in the front of the dowel jig. The slot and the center hole must be perfectly aligned — this accuracy is key for ensuring the jig works reliably.

I used a router table to cut the slot, using the center hole as a reference point. This guarantees that the center hole and slot are in one straight line. A router table makes precise and clean cuts, but you can also cut the slot with a jigsaw and drill if you don’t have one.

Do not cut all the way through — stop just before the center hole.

Cut the bottom slot in the same way. I used an adjustable router dado jig to do that but the router table would work as well. Both methods work just fine.

Finally, turn the dowel jig upside down and cut a wider slot on the bottom. This forms a T-track that will serve as a rail for the adjustable fence.

Step 4: Make the Adjustable Fence

Cut the fence pieces to size (plywood – 120 mm × 30 mm; MDF – 110 mm × 20 mm) and glue them together.
Drill a 6 mm hole in the center, then cut a shallow hexagon recess around the hole to sink the head of the bolt — this keeps the surface flush so the fence sits flat against the workpiece.

Step 5: Cut the Shape of the Dowel Jig

Refine the overall shape of the dowel jig for comfort and usability. Cut out a handle section so it’s easier to grip, and optionally round the head of the jig as I did — this is not necessary but makes it more ergonomic.
Sand all edges and corners to remove sharp edges and improve handling.

Step 6: Insert the Centering Pins

Glue the centering pins into the drilled holes from Step 2. I used beechwood dowels, but metal pins will also work. For best strength, use epoxy to secure them in place.
Ensure the pins are perfectly vertical and fully seated before the glue sets.

The picture below shows the finished Adjustable Dowel Jig.

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How to Use a Dowel Jig

This adjustable dowel jig can make both edge-to-edge joints and face joints, making it more versatile than a standard self-centering dowel jig. It works with boards between 10 mm and 40 mm wide, and its adjustable fence helps you position holes precisely every time.

💡 Tip: I’ve found that metal drill bits turn more smoothly in the bushings than standard wood bits, giving a cleaner cut and reducing wear on the jig.

Edge-to-Edge Joint

An edge-to-edge joint is when two boards are joined along their edges to make a wider panel. Accuracy is important here — even slight misalignment will be visible in the finished piece.

Steps:

Place the dowel jig around the edge of the first board. Use the centering pins to align the jig perfectly with the board’s center.
Set the drill depth — aim for half the dowel’s length plus about 2 mm to allow for glue overflow.
Insert the drill bit into the jig’s bushing and drill the first hole.
Continue drilling the remaining holes along the edge.
Add glue and insert the dowels into the first board.
Place the jig over one of the inserted dowels, push the fence until it touches the board’s face, and lock it in position. This sets the jig for the matching holes.
Position the second board so the dowels align with the routed slot in the jig’s front, ensuring the fence is tight against the board face.
Clamp the workpiece securely and drill the matching holes. Join the boards together.

Face Joint

The adjustable dowel jig can make two types of face joints:

Edge face joint — where the joint is close to the board’s edge.
Center face joint — where the joint is in the middle of a wider board or panel.

1. Face joint at the edge of the board:

Drill and insert dowels along the edge of the first board.
Place the jig over one inserted dowel, push the fence until it touches the board face, and lock it in place.
Clamp the boards so the joined edges are perfectly parallel.
Drill the matching holes in the second board and join them.

2. Face joint in the center of a board:

Align and clamp the boards together.
Remove the fence from the jig — this allows the body of the jig to sit flush in the middle of the board.
Place the jig over the inserted dowels, ensuring it’s flat and aligned.
Drill all matching holes in one straight line, then join the boards.

My Take

I love this jig. I’ve used it on several projects, and I’m really happy with how it performs. The adjustable fence makes setup quick, and the self-centering pins keep everything aligned for accurate, repeatable joints. Compared to the simpler self-centering jig, this one is far more versatile — it handles both edge-to-edge and face joints with ease, making it a great fit for everything from furniture building to cabinet work.

If you’re after precision, this jig delivers. Just remember, accuracy here is key — perfectly aligned holes and centering pins are what make those joints nice and flush. I used a drill stand for drilling the centering pin holes, and I’d recommend doing the same.

I keep reaching for this jig, no matter the project. Being able to tweak it for different joint types just makes things so much easier — and the accuracy I get out of it still surprises me every time.

If you’re just starting out, you might want to take a look at my Self-Centering Dowel Jig build first — it’s a bit simpler and a great introduction to dowel joinery. But if you’re ready for the next step, this adjustable version is absolutely worth making.

So… ready to build one for your workshop? You can download the full adjustable dowel jig plans here and start making your own today!

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Finished adjustable DIY dowel jig — precise, versatile, and perfect for both edge-to-edge and face joints.

Jigs I Used For This Project:

This post How to Build an Adjustable DIY Dowel Jig (For Edge & Face Joints) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

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Woodworking Jigs: Should You Build or Buy? A Beginner’s Guide (With Examples)

Table of Contents

What Is a Woodworking Jig?

Buying vs Making Woodworking Jigs: Quick Comparison

Pros and Cons of Buying a Woodworking Jig

Pros of Buying a Jig

Cons of Buying a Jig

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Pros and Cons of Making a Woodworking Jig

Pros of Making Your Own Jig

Cons of Making a Jig

When Should You Buy vs Build a Jig?

When Buying Makes Sense:

When Building Is the Better Option:

Best Beginner Jigs to Build First

1. Circular Saw Straight Edge Guide

2. Crosscut Sled for Table Saw

3. Router Dado Jig

4. Corner Clamp / Right Angle Clamp

5. Drill Press Stand for Hand Drill

Conclusion

Frequently Asked Questions

Is it cheaper to build your own woodworking jigs?

Can beginners build woodworking jigs?

Which woodworking jigs should I build first?

Are store-bought jigs better than DIY ones?

Do I need a router or table saw to make jigs?

Can a Jigsaw Cut Metal? Explained!

Table of Contents

Can a Jigsaw Cut Metal?

What Metal Thickness Can a Jigsaw Cut Through?

What Jigsaw is Suitable for Cutting Metal?

Can a Jigsaw Cut Metal Tubing?

What Jigsaw Blade Do You Need to Cut Through Metal?

What Are the Advantages of Using a Jigsaw to Cut Metal?

What Are the Disadvantages of Using a Jigsaw to Cut Metal?

Tips for Cutting Metal with a Jigsaw

Conclusion - Can you use a jigsaw to cut metal

How to Make a Drill Powered Disc Sander (DIY Disc Sander)

DIY Drill-Powered Disc Sander Video

Table of Contents

What you'll need to make a DIY Disc Sander

What is the purpose of a disc sander?

How to prevent an injury when working with a disc sander?

How useful is a drill disc sander?

Let's start building!

How to Make a Drill-Powered Disc Sander

Step 1: Make the Sanding Disc

Step 2: Make the Sanding Disc Attachment

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Step 3: Fix the Disc Attachment to the Base

Step 4: Attach the Drill to the Base

Step 5: Stick Sandpaper to the Disc

Step 6: Build a Detachable Table for the Disc Sander

How to Set up and Use a DIY Drill Disc Sander

How to Make a Disc Sander from a Drill

Jigs used for this project:

How to Cut an Oval in Wood with an Ellipse Jig

DIY Ellipse Jig Video

Table of Contents

Router Oval Jig Plans

What you'll need to make an Ellipse Router Jig

How do you cut a perfect oval in wood with a router?

What tool do you use to make ovals in wood?

What is the best router bit for cutting an oval?

Let's start building!

How to Cut an Oval in Wood with an Ellipse Jig

Step 1: Cut the Ellipse Jig Baseplate

Step 2: Cut the T-track Runners

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Step 3: Assemble the Baseplate Parts

Step 4: Make the T-tracks

Step 5: Finish the T-track Runners

Step 6: Make T-track Bolts for the Router Circle Jig

Step 7: Add a Leveling Support

How to Cut an Oval in Wood

How to Cut an Oval with a Router

Jigs used for this project:

Frequently Asked Questions