AllFlavor Workshop

DIY Planer Stand with Storage: Make a Rolling Tool Cart

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 16 Apr 2026 14:00:00 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

DIY Planer Stand with Storage: Make a Rolling Tool Cart

I built this DIY planer stand because my planer had been sitting on the floor for way too long, and I was getting pretty tired of it. Every time I wanted to use it, I had to bend down, move a heavy machine around, and set it up again. It was inconvenient, impractical, and honestly just annoying to work that way.

At the same time, I needed a bit more storage in the workshop, so it made sense to combine both into one build — a mobile planer stand with storage that also works as a rolling tool cart.

The cart is made from Baltic birch plywood, with a thicker MDF top and sturdy locking casters, which are a must if you want the planer to stay stable while running. The final size is 72 × 56 × 72 cm (28.3 × 22 × 28.3 in), including the casters, so it doesn’t take up too much space but still gives you a useful work surface and storage.

Inside, there are two larger shelves accessible from both sides, plus a narrow shelf right below the top. On the two closed sides, I added a few hooks and small shelves for extra shop accessories and tools. So in the end, this build is not just a planer stand — it’s a practical cart that helps keep the workshop more organized.

👉 If you want to see more shop builds and jigs like this, check out my woodworking plans page.

Video: How to Build a DIY Planer Stand with Storage

If you want to see the full build in action, you can watch the video below. It follows the whole process and gives a better look at how the cart comes together in the workshop.

I appreciate every YouTube subscriber. It’s free and easy to subscribe to — just Click Here To Subscribe. Thank you!

Plans: Coming Soon
Materials Needed
Before You Start: Why Build a DIY Planer Stand?
Let’s Start Building!
Step 1: Build the Two Main Support Frames
Step 2: Glue and Finish the Two Frames
Step 3: Add the Inside Panels
Step 4: Add the Casters and Finish the Cart Core
Step 5: Make and Install the Tabletop
Step 6: Add the Shelves and Side Storage
Wrap-Up
FAQ

*Safety is your responsibility. Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first!

Plans: Coming Soon

The plans for this DIY planer stand are not available yet, but I’m working on them now. Once they’re ready, I’ll add them here so you can build the same cart more easily in your own shop.

Materials Needed

For this build, I used Baltic birch plywood for the main body, a thicker MDF top, and sturdy locking casters to make the stand mobile but stable. I’ll list all the materials and tools I used below so you can adjust the build to your own workshop and planer if needed.

Some of the links below may be affiliate links. If you buy through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Wood

Baltic Birch Plywood
MDF

Hardware

Caster Wheels – https://amzn.to/3Od2Qki

Other Materials

Varnish – https://amzn.to/3TOoOO3
Wood Glue – https://amzn.to/3RDDWLi
Silicon Brush – https://amzn.to/3NPlgaq
Sanding Discs – https://amzn.to/4aGaY6r
Sandpaper Sheets – https://amzn.to/41OMx2p
Protective Gloves – https://amzn.to/3TPCVT7
Dust Rspirator – https://amzn.to/3H3hKWi
Respirator Cartridge – https://amzn.to/48GCBKJ
Eye Protection – https://amzn.to/3S9tD3q

Tools

Table Saw – https://amzn.to/47mWiGf
Orbital Sander – https://amzn.to/48G9cjL
Cordless Hand Drill – https://amzn.to/3HqLEnH
Corded Drill (Press) – https://amzn.to/3NSA3Bo
Dewalt Planer – https://amzn.to/3vAiNut
Table Saw Blade – https://amzn.to/48maocv
Grr-Ripper Push Block – https://amzn.to/3vjQSP7
Narex Chisels – https://amzn.to/3tHNJrT
Wolfcraft L-Angle – https://amzn.to/4aGaT2D
Spring Clamps – https://amzn.to/41Nuh9D
F-Clamps – https://amzn.to/48ArzY1
Bessey Parallel Clamps – https://amzn.to/3TNpa7p
Piher Quick Clamps – https://amzn.to/48rmFMU
WolfCraft Quick Clamps – https://amzn.to/48jGxkZ
T-Track Clamps – https://amzn.to/3tEKaCW
Bench Cookies – https://amzn.to/48iPHhn
Drill Bit Set – https://amzn.to/48Kaaf7
Forstner Bit Set – https://amzn.to/3Hd1aDb

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DIY Planer Stand with Storage — mobile rolling tool cart for a benchtop planer.

Before You Start: Why Build a DIY Planer Stand?

A planer is one of those tools that works great when it has a proper place in the shop. If it sits on the floor, or if you have to keep moving it around, using it quickly becomes a hassle. That was exactly my situation, and it was one of the main reasons I decided to build this stand.

For me, the goal was not just to get the planer off the floor, but also to make better use of the space around it. This build gave me a stable mobile base, a proper working height, and extra storage at the same time. If you have a benchtop planer and want it easier to move, easier to use, and less in the way when you are not working with it, a DIY planer stand like this makes a lot of sense.

Let’s Start Building!

The build itself is pretty straightforward, but it gives you a very useful result. We’ll make a sturdy plywood body with open storage from both sides, add a solid MDF top for the planer, and finish it off with locking casters so the whole cart can move around the shop when needed.

The goal here was simple: make something strong enough for a heavy benchtop planer, practical enough to add storage, and compact enough to fit into a small workshop without wasting space.

How to Make a Planer Stand

Step 1: Build the Two Main Support Frames

I started the build by making the two main rectangular support frames that form the core of the cart. These frames carry most of the structure, so I wanted them to be solid and accurate from the start.

To make them stronger, I built each frame piece by laminating two layers of Baltic birch plywood together. That gives the frame more rigidity, but it also makes the corner tenons stronger and more durable. In the end, I cut 16 identical parts in total — two matching pieces for each frame member — then glued them together to end up with 8 final parts, with 4 parts per frame.

After gluing, I cleaned off the excess glue while it was still damp, then used a chisel to remove any dried residue that could get in the way of a tight joint. Once that was done, I lightly sanded the pieces with an orbital sander and a sanding block, and did a dry fit of the frames to check that everything lined up well and stayed square.

TIP: Clean up glue squeeze-out before it fully hardens. It saves time later, and more importantly, it helps the joints fit together properly.

Step 2: Glue and Finish the Two Frames

Once all the frame parts were ready, I glued the ends, brought each rectangle together, and clamped everything in place. I used large clamps across the frame to pull it tight, and smaller clamps on the corners to apply pressure from multiple directions. This part is worth taking slowly — tighten the clamps bit by bit and keep checking the frame for squareness as you go.

After the glue dried, I cleaned up the joints with a chisel to remove any hardened squeeze-out, then sanded the corners and the whole frame with an orbital sander. To make the construction even stronger, I also added two screws into each corner.

TIP: Label each frame clearly as top and bottom before moving on. It makes the final assembly much easier later.

Step 3: Add the Inside Panels

With both support frames finished, the next step was to connect them with the inside panels and turn them into the main body of the cart. I cut all the panels to size on the table saw, then started fitting them one by one between the frames.

I clamped the first panel in place with large clamps to hold everything steady, then screwed it in. I didn’t use glue here — screws are enough, and it also makes things easier if you ever want to adjust something later. It’s a good idea to predrill the holes first and sink the screw heads slightly below the surface for a cleaner result.

I repeated the same process for the other three inside panels. Once they were all in place, I checked that everything lined up nicely and gave the assembly a light sanding. At this point, the cart already starts to feel solid, and you’re left with the main core of the stand.

NOTE: Predrilling really helps here, especially near the panel edges. It keeps the plywood from splitting and makes the assembly cleaner.

Step 4: Add the Casters and Finish the Cart Core

Next, I added the casters and finished the main body of the cart. Since the casters need a solid place to mount to, I first glued a few plywood blocks to the bottom of the construction where each caster would go. Once the glue dried fully, I predrilled the holes and screwed the casters in place.

After that, I checked that the cart rolled properly and made small adjustments where needed. That part is worth doing before moving on, especially if you want the stand to move smoothly and sit stable once the planer is on top.

With the casters installed, I finished the core with a few coats of varnish. It gives the cart a cleaner look and helps protect the plywood from everyday workshop wear.

TIP: Test the cart on a flat floor after installing the casters. If something feels off, it’s much easier to fix it now than later when the cart is fully finished and loaded.

Step 5: Make and Install the Tabletop

With the cart core finished, the next step was to add the tabletop. I cut two thicker MDF pieces on the table saw, aligned them on top of the cart, and fixed them temporarily in place with clamps. Then I predrilled the mounting holes using my portable drill stand and screwed the top down to the core.

I used only screws here, with no glue, because that gives me the option to replace the tabletop later if it gets worn out or damaged. Just make sure the screw heads sit flush with the surface so the planer rests flat on top.

As a rough test, I placed the planer on the tabletop to see how everything felt and whether the stand worked as intended. If you want, you can also drill mounting holes in the top and bolt the planer down so it stays fixed in place during use.

NOTE: Using screws only is a nice option for workshop furniture like this. The top is the part that will take the most wear, so being able to replace it later is practical.

Step 6: Add the Shelves and Side Storage

The last step was to finish the cart with a few simple storage additions. I cut one shelf to size and installed it in the middle of the cart, which split the inside into two larger storage spaces. That gave me enough room for some of the tools I use often, mainly things like my drill or trim router.

After that, I added two smaller side shelves for things I like to keep close at hand, such as glue bottles and drill batteries. On the outside panels, I also mounted a few simple storage racks to hold different shop accessories — things like spring clamps, corner clamps, my table saw crosscut sled, router table, or even a wooden mallet.

That’s the nice thing about a cart like this — once the main structure is done, you can customize the outside storage however it fits your workshop. At this point, the planer stand is finished and ready to use.

TIP: Think about the tools you reach for most often before adding the side storage. It’s better to build the shelves and racks around your own workflow than to copy a layout that may not fit your shop.

Wrap-Up

This build solved a real problem I had in the workshop. My planer had been sitting on the floor for way too long, and every time I wanted to use it, it was a hassle. I had to move it around, set it up, and bend down to work. Building this cart finally gave it a proper place, while also adding some extra storage I needed anyway.

What I like most about it is that it does more than one job. It works as a DIY planer stand, a rolling tool cart, extra shop storage, and even as a small mobile work surface if there’s no planer on top. You could also swap the planer for another benchtop tool, like a belt sander, which makes it even more useful in the long run.

I didn’t bolt the planer to the tabletop, but it definitely makes sense if you want it fixed in place. And one thing I wouldn’t save money on here is the casters. They carry all the weight, and they need to lock properly so the cart stays still while the planer is running.

Overall, this is one of those workshop builds that really earns its space. If you want to see more shop builds and jigs like this, check out my woodworking plans page.

FAQ

1. What is the best height for a DIY planer stand?

The best height depends on both your planer and your own working comfort. In my case, I built the stand so the planer sits at a practical height for feeding boards in and out without bending down too much. If you are building your own, it is worth checking the final height with the planer already in mind, especially if you use it often.

2. Should you bolt a planer to the stand?

Yes, in many cases it makes sense. I did not bolt mine down, but if you want the planer to stay permanently in place, bolting it to the tabletop is a smart idea. It adds stability and keeps the machine from shifting, especially when planing longer or heavier boards.

3. What kind of casters should I use for a planer stand?

Use strong casters that can handle the full weight of the cart and the planer together. Locking casters are especially important, because you do not want the stand moving while the planer is running. This is one of those parts where it is worth spending a bit more for something reliable.

4. Can a planer stand also work as a rolling tool cart?

Yes, and that is exactly why I built mine this way. A planer stand with shelves and side storage can easily do double duty as a rolling tool cart. It saves space, keeps tools organized, and can still be moved around the workshop when needed.

5. What else can you use a planer stand for?

If the planer is not mounted permanently, the cart can be used for other benchtop tools as well, like a belt sander or similar workshop tools. It can also work as a small mobile work surface or storage cart, which makes it a very practical build for smaller workshops.

This post DIY Planer Stand with Storage: Make a Rolling Tool Cart first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

How to Make a Wooden Mallet (Step-by-Step DIY Guide)

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 09 Apr 2026 14:00:00 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

How to Make a Wooden Mallet (Step-by-Step DIY Guide)

A wooden mallet is one of those workshop tools you end up using all the time — tapping parts into place, nudging assemblies, seating joints, and generally moving things without damaging them. In this guide I’ll show you how to make a wooden mallet step by step, but mine isn’t just functional — I also added a few design details to make it a bit more special.

The mallet is made from beech, walnut, and Baltic birch plywood. The main structure is solid hardwood (beech + walnut), and the plywood is there mainly for the decorative pattern. Everything is glued up with wood glue.

The finished size is 32.5 cm overall length, with a head length of 16 cm and a head width of 6 cm. I also cut the sides of the head at angles, which gives it a cleaner look.

And just to be clear — you don’t have to copy the decorative parts. The patterned plywood handle and the plywood strip in the head are optional. You can follow the same process with one hardwood (or just beech + walnut) and still end up with a simple, durable mallet that does the job.

If you want more builds like this (jigs, workshop tools, and downloadable plans), you can find everything in one place here: 👉 See all Woodworking Plans

Video: Watch the Build

If you want to see the whole process in action, here’s the build video — it shows the glue-up, shaping, and the finishing details up close.

I appreciate every YouTube subscriber. It’s free and easy to subscribe to — just Click Here To Subscribe. Thank you!

Wooden Mallet Plans
Materials and Tools Used
Mallet Design Notes (Size, Wood Choice, and the Optional Decorative Parts)
Make a Wooden Mallet (Step by Step)
1. Step 1: Cut the Handle Pieces (Plywood Pattern + Walnut Core)
2. Step 2: Glue the Handle Blank + Prep the Tenon End (Wedge Slots)
3. Step 3: Shape the Handle (Final Grip)
4. Step 4: Build the Mallet Head + Install the Handle (Glue + Wedges)
5. Step 5: Sand and Finish the Mallet (Final Shape + Oil)
Wrap-Up: A Shop Mallet You’ll Use All the Time
FAQs: How to Make a Wooden Mallet

*Safety is your responsibility. Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first!

Wooden Mallet Plans

Download the Wooden Mallet Plans here

Download plans here

Materials and Tools Used

Here’s everything I used for this wooden mallet build — the three wood types, glue, finish, and the main tools/jigs that made the process easier and more accurate.

Affiliate note: Some links in this post may be affiliate links — they don’t cost you anything extra, but they help support the builds and free guides on AllFlavor Workshop.

Wood

Beech
Walnut
Baltic birch plywood

Other Materials

Wood Glue — https://amzn.to/48ltKhJ
Wood Oil — https://amzn.to/48IyQ7p
Silicon Brush — https://amzn.to/3NPlgaq
Painters Tape — https://amzn.to/3vCRqzE
Woodworking Double Sided Tape — https://amzn.to/3tPMGpM
Sandpaper Sheets — https://amzn.to/41OMx2p
Sanding Discs — https://amzn.to/4aGaY6r

Tools

Table Saw — https://amzn.to/47mWiGf
Router — https://amzn.to/3HbQcOg
Drill Press — https://amzn.to/3NSA3Bo
Angle Grinder — https://amzn.to/48K2klD
Orbit Sander — https://amzn.to/48G9cjL
Belt Sander — https://amzn.to/4b4XeCd
Table Saw Blade — https://amzn.to/48maocv
Push Block — https://amzn.to/3vjQSP7
Router Flattening Bit — https://amzn.to/3TUJ2pc
Narex Chisels — https://amzn.to/3tHNJrT
F-Clamps — https://amzn.to/48ArzY1
One Hand Clamps — https://amzn.to/48jGxkZ
Spring Clamps — https://amzn.to/41Nuh9D
Machinist Square — https://amzn.to/48fT6xw
Speed Square — https://amzn.to/3RO67Hy
Drill Bit Set — https://amzn.to/4aI47t3
L-Angle — https://amzn.to/4aGaT2D

✅ Check all the tools I use here

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How to Make a Wooden Mallet — step-by-step laminated build with wedges.

Mallet Design Notes (Size, Wood Choice, and the Optional Decorative Parts)

Before we start cutting, it helps to decide whether you want to build the mallet as a simple hardwood version, or include the decorative plywood details. The plywood patterns look great, but they’re optional — the mallet is fully functional with just beech/walnut (or even one hardwood). The key is keeping the head size comfortable (16 cm long × 6 cm wide) and leaving a little extra material during glue-up so you can square everything up cleanly before shaping.

Let’s Start Building! (before the step-by-step)

I’ll go through the build in the same order I made it: glue up the laminated blank, shape the head and handle, add the angled head faces and optional decorative inlays, then sand and oil the mallet so the beech/walnut contrast really pops.

How to Make a Wooden Mallet

Step 1: Cut the Handle Pieces (Plywood Pattern + Walnut Core)

I started with the handle first. The outside layers are made from 9 mm Baltic birch plywood, cut into small blocks that create the patterned look once they’re arranged and glued up.

First, I ripped the plywood into 15 mm wide strips — that width later becomes the “thickness” of the pattern layer. Then I crosscut those strips into 40 mm long pieces. I cut a lot of them (around 100 pieces), so I had enough for both outer layers and some extras for mistakes.

For these small repeatable cuts, a table saw + crosscut sled is perfect — you get consistent parts quickly, and it’s much safer than trying to freehand tiny pieces.

After the plywood pieces were done, I cut the walnut core for the middle of the handle. I started from a blank around 330 × 50 × 10 mm and cut it to size on the table saw. If you can, pick a darker walnut — it gives a really nice contrast against the lighter plywood pattern layers.

Tip: Cut more plywood blocks than you think you need. It saves time later and lets you pick the nicest-looking pieces for the visible areas.

Note: Tiny pieces near a spinning blade can be dangerous — use a stop block and a sled, keep your hands far from the blade, and don’t rush this step.

Step 2: Glue the Handle Blank + Prep the Tenon End (Wedge Slots)

This step is where the handle really starts to take shape. I began by gluing the plywood pieces into a herringbone pattern, one by one, to create two patterned outer panels. Once those panels dried, I flattened them using my multi-function router jig (light passes) and gave them a quick sanding.

After that, I trimmed the panels to uniform size on the table saw, then glued the full handle blank together: plywood panel + walnut core + plywood panel. With clamps on, I let it cure, then squared the blank by trimming the ends and sides on the table saw. At this point, I had a clean rectangular handle block ready for shaping.

Next, I prepped one end for the head connection. I trimmed that end narrower using a crosscut sled — this becomes the tenon that will go into the mallet head. To prevent cracking later when the wedges go in, I drilled two relief (dilatation) holes on that same end using my drill press stand. Finally, I cut two wedge slots on the table saw using my tenon jig, cutting down from the top until I reached the drilled holes. Those slots are where the wedges will expand the handle inside the head.

Tip: Flattening and squaring the handle blank now saves a ton of time later. If the blank is straight and uniform, everything that follows (head fit + shaping) is much easier.

Note: The relief holes are important — they stop the wedge slots from splitting further down the handle when you drive the wedges in.

Step 3: Shape the Handle (Final Grip)

Now I give the handle its final shape. I start by drawing a few guide lines — nothing fancy, just enough to mark where I want the grip to feel slimmer and more comfortable in the hand.

To remove the bulk quickly, I use a grinder and knock off the main corners and excess material. (If you have a band saw, that’s honestly the better option here — faster, cleaner, and way less dust.) Once the rough shape is there, I clamp the handle in my Moxon vise and use sanding sheets to refine it into the final grip shape.

This part is very personal — the “best” handle shape is the one that feels right in your hand. Take your time and keep testing the grip until it feels comfortable. After that, the handle is done and we can move on to the mallet head.

Tip: Don’t aim for perfection immediately. Get the rough shape first, then sneak up on the final comfort with sanding — it’s much easier to control.

Step 4: Build the Mallet Head + Install the Handle (Glue + Wedges)

Now we move on to the mallet head — this is where the design really comes together. I start by cutting all the head parts to size on the table saw: two main beech blocks for the head body, plus all the side pieces that build up the “decorative sandwich” on the sides (beech strips, walnut inlays, and the patterned plywood strip).

The plywood patterned strip is made the exact same way as the handle pattern (cut small plywood blocks → glue into pattern → flatten/square). Once I had all the parts ready, I did a dry fit with the handle so I could see the layout and check that everything would line up cleanly.

Then I glued the side pieces into panels and sanded them flat. After that, I glued up the head in stages: I glued one side panel to the main beech head pieces first, using the handle as spacing so the opening stays correct. Once that cured, I cleaned up any glue squeeze-out inside the opening with a chisel, then glued on the second side panel and let everything dry.

After the main head block was solid, I cut the head sides at an angle using a table saw sled to give it that cleaner, finished shape.

Finally, I assembled the mallet: I applied glue to the handle tenon and inside the head opening, inserted the handle, and drove in the wedges to lock it in place. Then I let the whole mallet cure fully before final shaping and finishing.

Note: Always clean the inside glue squeeze-out before closing the second panel. If dried glue stays inside the opening, the handle fit can become tight or uneven.

Step 5: Sand and Finish the Mallet (Final Shape + Oil)

This is the step where the mallet goes from “assembled” to “finished.” First I sand the head down to its final shape, clean up the surfaces, and break all the sharp edges so it feels good in the hand and won’t chip easily. I use a mix of an orbital sander and a belt sander to get the shape right and make the faces smooth, then I work through a few grits until everything feels clean and even.

Once the sanding is done, I oil the mallet with Belinka oil. This is the moment where everything comes alive — the beech, walnut, and plywood patterns pop, the contrast gets stronger, and the mallet starts looking like a finished piece instead of just a block of wood.

And that’s it — the mallet is finished and ready for the shop.

Note: If the surface still feels oily after a coat, wipe off the excess and give it more time to dry before adding another coat.

Wrap-Up: A Shop Mallet You’ll Use All the Time

This mallet is definitely a bit more “tuned up” the way I built it — with the plywood patterns, walnut accents, and the angled head — but you can absolutely follow the same process and make a simpler version from one solid hardwood. Either way, you end up with one of the most useful tools you can have in the shop.

A wooden mallet is perfect for any operation where you need force but don’t want to damage your workpiece — tapping joints together, adjusting assemblies, seating parts, or nudging things into place without leaving metal marks. And it’s also a great “scrap wood” project. If you’ve been building jigs, shop furniture, or cutting boards, you probably already have enough offcuts to make a really nice mallet without buying much extra material.

It’s also one of those builds that’s especially helpful early on when you’re setting up your workshop. Once you have a mallet, you’ll start reaching for it constantly — and having one that feels good in the hand (and looks great) is a nice bonus.

If you want more builds like this (jigs, workshop tools, and downloadable plans), you can find everything in one place here: 👉 Woodworking Plans (All Projects)

FAQs: How to Make a Wooden Mallet

1) What wood is best for a wooden mallet?

Hardwoods are the best choice because they’re durable and hold up to repeated удар (impacts). Beech, maple, ash, oak, and walnut all work well. In my build I used beech and walnut for strength and contrast, and Baltic birch plywood only as a decorative pattern (not as the main striking material).

2) How do you make a wooden mallet strong?

A strong mallet comes down to three things: a solid head, a good handle fit, and a reliable joint. Laminating the head with wood glue creates a very strong blank, and a properly fitted handle that’s expanded with wedges locks the handle in place so it won’t loosen over time.

3) Do I need wedges for a wooden mallet handle?

If you’re fitting the handle through the head, wedges are a great idea. They expand the handle inside the head and make the connection much more secure. Relief holes and wedge slots also help prevent the handle from cracking when the wedges are driven in.

4) What size should a wooden mallet be?

There’s no single “correct” size — it depends on what you use it for. A general shop mallet like mine (about 32.5 cm overall length with a 16 cm head) is a comfortable everyday size. The main goal is a head that feels balanced and a handle that fits your grip.

5) What finish should I use on a wooden mallet?

A simple oil finish works great because it’s easy to apply and keeps the wood looking good. I used Belinka oil. You don’t need a thick film finish — just something that protects the wood and makes it easier to keep clean.

This post How to Make a Wooden Mallet (Step-by-Step DIY Guide) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

DIY Lumber Storage Cart (Rolling Rack for Boards + Offcuts)

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 02 Apr 2026 14:00:00 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

DIY Lumber Storage Cart (Rolling Rack for Boards + Offcuts)

If you’ve ever had offcuts and boards slowly taking over your workshop, this cart is a simple fix. I built this DIY lumber storage cart as a compact, roll-anywhere storage solution for a smaller shop — it keeps cutoffs and longer pieces in one place, and you can move it wherever you’re working and lock it in position.

The cart is made from pine (and you can absolutely use scrap sheets and leftover boards you already have). There’s no need for “nice” wood here — it’s a workshop tool. I also built it so it can be taken apart later: no wood glue, just screws, so I can disassemble it or tweak the layout if I ever want to.

The overall dimensions are 106.5 cm long × 40.5 cm wide × 72.5 cm high (including casters). Inside, it has 5 storage boxes: three smaller bins in the front for cutoffs, one larger bin in the back for bigger pieces (up to about 60 cm wide), and a side compartment for longer narrow pieces. On the bottom I used four heavy-duty locking casters, so it rolls easily and stays put when needed.

If you want more workshop builds and jigs like this (with all my free and paid plans in one place), you can find them here: 👉 Woodworking Plans (All Projects)

Video: Watch the Build

If you prefer to follow along visually, here’s the full build video — I’ll show the key steps, the layout of the boxes, and the small details that make the cart stable and easy to roll.

I appreciate every YouTube subscriber. It’s free and easy to subscribe to — just Click Here To Subscribe. Thank you!

Woodworking Plans (Coming Soon)
Materials and Tools Needed
Cart Layout and Capacity (What Fits Where)
Let’s Start Building!
Wrap-Up: A Simple Build That Makes Your Shop Feel Bigger
FAQs: DIY Lumber Storage Cart

Woodworking Plans (Coming Soon)

I’m currently working on clean, printable plans for this lumber storage cart — I’ll add them here as soon as they’re ready.

Materials and Tools Needed

Here’s everything I used for this build — pine boards/sheets, screws, casters, and the main tools that made the cuts and assembly quick and accurate.

Wood

Pine plywood

Hardware

Wood Screws

Other Materials

Caster Wheels — https://amzn.to/3Od2Qki
Tape Measure — https://amzn.to/48rmFMU
Sanding Discs — https://amzn.to/4aGaY6r
Drill Bits — https://amzn.to/48Kaaf7
Hardware Assortment Kit — https://amzn.to/41PodgQ
Ruler Marking Gauge — https://amzn.to/47GZbC3

Tools:

Circular Saw — https://amzn.to/4aMD0xg
Table Saw — https://amzn.to/47mWiGf
Orbit Sander — https://amzn.to/48G9cjL
Hand Drill — https://amzn.to/3HqLEnH
Table Saw Blade — https://amzn.to/48maocv
Push Block — https://amzn.to/3vjQSP7
Speed Square — https://amzn.to/3RO67Hy
F-Clamps — https://amzn.to/48ArzY1
Right Angle Clamps — https://amzn.to/3vPpHf8
One Hand Clamps — https://amzn.to/48jGxkZ
Piher Quick Clamps — https://amzn.to/48rmFMU
Large L Angle — https://amzn.to/4aGaT2D

✅ Check all the tools I use here

Affiliate note: Some links in this post may be affiliate links — they don’t cost you anything extra, but they help support the builds and free guides on AllFlavor Workshop.

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DIY Lumber Storage Cart — rolling rack for boards and offcuts (small shop friendly).

Cart Layout and Capacity (What Fits Where)

Before you start cutting, it helps to think about what you actually want to store. This cart is designed for a smaller workshop, so the layout is all about keeping things sorted without taking up a lot of floor space. The front boxes are for small cutoffs you grab all the time, the back box is for larger pieces and short sheets (up to about 60 cm wide), and the side compartment is for longer narrow stock like sticks and strips.

If you want to customize it, the easiest tweaks are the box heights and the side compartment width — you can adapt those to the offcuts you generate most. Just keep the heavy stuff lower in the cart so it stays stable on the casters.

Let’s Start Building!

This is a quick build — you can realistically assemble it in a day if you have the wood cut and ready. I’ll go step-by-step through the frame, the storage boxes, and the caster base, and I’ll point out the few spots where spacing and squareness matter most so the cart rolls straight and everything fits cleanly.

How to Make a DIY Lumber Cart

Step 1: Build the Cart Base (Base Panel + Back Supports)

I started by marking out the base panel and cutting it to 105 × 40 cm on the table saw. Then, using the table saw again, I cut two uniform strips: one for the back bottom support and one for the back top support (these will stiffen the back and help tie the cart together).

To attach the back bottom support, I clamped it in place first to keep everything aligned, then rotated the base so I had access from underneath. After that I screwed it in from the bottom. I’m not using glue anywhere on this build — just screws — because I want the option to disassemble the cart later if I ever need to modify it or move it.

Tip: Pre-drill your screw holes and countersink/flush the heads. It prevents splitting and keeps the bottom surface smooth so the cart sits flat on the casters.

Step 2: Cut the Inner Dividers + Start Building the Boxes

Next I cut the inner stands/dividers to size. Most cuts were done on the table saw, and for the angled cut I used my circular saw with a straight edge guide to keep it clean and repeatable.

Once the dividers were ready, I positioned them on the base and used corner clamps to hold everything in place while I fastened them. Just like the base, I’m using screws only (no glue), so I predrilled all holes and made sure the screw heads sit flush. I repeated the same process for all three dividers: clamp → check alignment → predrill → screw into the base and the back bottom support.

After that, I rotated the workpiece and attached the back upper support. At this point I only secured the outer dividers — I left the middle divider loose for now so I could fine-tune spacing before locking everything in.

Note: Leaving the middle divider loose for a moment is a good move. It’s easier to fine-tune spacing now than to fight it after everything is fully screwed down.

Step 3: Attach the Front Panel (Close the Case)

This step is pretty straightforward. I cut the front panel to 100 × 28 cm using my table saw sled, positioned it on the front of the cart, and clamped it in place so it couldn’t shift. Then I predrilled and screwed it on — same approach as before: no glue, just screws, with the heads sitting flush.

Once the front panel is attached, the main “case” of the cart is basically done and everything starts to feel solid.

Tip: Clamp the panel tight and check it’s sitting flush before you drive screws — if it creeps even a few millimeters, the whole front can end up slightly skewed.

Step 4: Build and Install the Inner Dividers (Box Components)

Now I made the inner divider pieces that form the actual storage “boxes.” I cut everything to size using my crosscut sled for repeatable square cuts, and a straight edge guide where it helped keep longer cuts clean.

Instead of assembling everything inside the cart piece-by-piece, I built two divider components first: I attached the dividers to the back supporting panel with screws, which gave me two solid “modules.” Then I slid those modules into the cart case and fastened them from the sides with screws.

This is also the moment where it really helps that I left the center divider loose earlier — you can fine-tune the spacing so everything fits nicely before locking it in.

On top of that, I added one more back support. It stiffens the cart, but it’s also practical: it gives stored boards a back “stop” so pieces don’t slide or fall out the rear of the cart.

At this point the cart is basically done — the only thing left is adding the casters.

Tip: Pre-assemble divider “modules” outside the cart if you can. It’s easier to keep everything square on the bench than fighting alignment inside the case.

Step 5: Install the Casters (Reinforce + Roll and Lock)

For the last step, I turned the cart upside down and added two reinforcing wooden strips to the bottom. These give the casters more material to bite into and help spread the load, especially once the cart is full of wood.

After that, I mounted the casters onto the reinforcing strips. I used locking casters (with arretation) on the front so I can lock the cart in place when needed. The back casters don’t have locks — the back side is usually against a wall anyway, so I don’t really have easy access there. (If you want, you can absolutely use locking casters on all four corners.)

At this point the cart is finished. If you want to make it a little nicer to use, this is also a good moment to do a quick sanding pass and break the sharp edges.

Tip: If you’re storing heavier boards, don’t cheap out on casters. A cart like this is only as good as its wheels — go for heavy-duty casters that roll smoothly and don’t flex under load.

Wrap-Up: A Simple Build That Makes Your Shop Feel Bigger

This is a pretty simple project, but it’s one of those workshop builds that pays off immediately. If you do any woodworking at all, you’ll end up with a constant pile of offcuts, strips, and “maybe I’ll need this later” pieces — and without a place for them, they just spread across the shop. This cart fixes that by giving everything a home and keeping your floor and benches a lot cleaner.

I also like that it’s built with screws only — no glue — so if you ever want to change the layout, move it, or rebuild it later, you can disassemble it without destroying the cart. And with the heavy-duty casters, you can roll it wherever you’re working and lock it in place when needed.

If you’re building up your workshop, this is one of those “must-have” projects that’s especially useful early on — it helps you stay organized while you’re still collecting tools, materials, and building more shop storage.

If you want more projects like this (jigs, workshop builds, and downloadable plans), you can find everything in one place here: 👉 Woodworking Plans (All Projects)

FAQs: DIY Lumber Storage Cart

1) What is the best wood to use for a DIY lumber storage cart?

You don’t need expensive wood for this build. Pine, construction lumber, or leftover plywood/scrap sheets work great because the cart is a workshop tool, not furniture. The most important thing is solid screw joints and stable casters.

2) Should I use wood glue when building a lumber cart?

You can, but you don’t have to. I built this cart with screws only so it can be disassembled later if I want to modify the layout or move it. If you want maximum rigidity and never plan to take it apart, glue + screws is also a good option.

3) What casters should I use for a lumber cart on wheels?

Use heavy-duty casters rated for the weight you expect to store. Locking casters are worth it — at least on the front — so the cart stays put while you load and unload boards.

4) How do I keep a rolling lumber cart from tipping over?

Keep the cart low and stable: store heavier boards in the lower compartments, don’t overload one side, and use casters that don’t flex. A wider base and good caster placement also make a big difference.

5) What should I store in a lumber storage cart?

These carts are great for sorting: long narrow pieces on the side, medium boards in the main compartments, and small offcuts up front where you can grab them easily. The goal is keeping scraps organized so they don’t pile up around the shop.

This post DIY Lumber Storage Cart (Rolling Rack for Boards + Offcuts) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

How to Make a Wooden Chess Board (Step-by-Step DIY Guide)

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 26 Mar 2026 14:00:00 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

How to Make a Wooden Chess Board (Step-by-Step DIY Guide)

In this post I’m going to show you how I built a wooden chess board from beech and walnut. I love this combo because the contrast is strong even when it’s raw, and once you oil it, the pattern really pops.

The finished board is 35 × 35 cm (including the frame). The playable area inside is 29 × 29 cm, which gives you squares around 3.6 × 3.6 cm each. That size feels like a nice sweet spot: plenty of room for standard chess pieces, but not so big that the board takes over the whole table. I also added a frame around the outside — partly for style, but mainly because it helps protect the rim from small dents and chipping over time.

If you’ve ever made an edge-grain cutting board, you’ll recognize a lot of the process. This build has the same “rhythm”: cutting strips to size (I’m starting with planed boards), gluing up panels, flattening, trimming to final dimensions, and then finishing. Different end goal, but very similar steps — which is honestly why it’s such a fun project.

And if you want to make the build easier (especially the glue-up/flattening/sizing parts), a lot of the same jigs apply here too.
👉 Best Jigs for Making Cutting Boards (And How to Use Them)

Video: Watch the Build

If you prefer to follow along visually, here’s the full build video — I’ll walk through the main steps and show the key details up close.

Video: Watch the Build
Chessboard Plans
Materials and Tools Used (Beech + Walnut)
Woodworking Plans (Coming Soon)
Chess Board Size and Layout (Squares, Play Area, and Frame)
Let’s Start Building!
1. Step 1: Cut the Wooden Strips to Size (Beech + Walnut)
2. Step 2: Glue Up the Strips (First Panel)
3. Step 3: Crosscut the Panel into Blocks + Second Glue-Up (Make the Chess Pattern)
4. Step 4: Flatten the Board (Planer or Router Flattening Jig)
5. Step 5: Build and Attach the Frame (Beech Frame + Walnut Inlay)
6. Step 6: Sand and Finish the Chess Board (Grain Raise + Oil)
Wrap-Up: A Chess Board That’s Fun to Build (and Even Better to Use)
FAQs: How to Make a Wooden Chess Board

Chessboard Plans

Download the Chessboard Plans here

Download plans here

Materials Used (Beech + Walnut)

I built this chess board from beech and walnut for a clean contrast that really pops once it’s oiled.

Affiliate disclaimer: Some of the links in this post may be affiliate links — they don’t cost you anything extra, but they help support the builds and free guides on AllFlavor Workshop.

Materials:

Walnut, Beech
Wood Glue – Wood Glue
Cutting Board Oil – Cutting Board Oil
Sandpaper Sheets – Sandpaper Sheets
Sanding Discs – Sanding Discs

Tools:

Table Saw – Table Saw
Planer – Planer
Router – Router
Orbit Sander – Orbit Sander
Bessey Parallel Clamps – Parallel Clamps
F-Clamps – F-Clamps
Wolfcraft One Hand Clamps – Wolfcraft One Hand Clamps
T-Track Clamps – T-Track Clamps

Tools:

Table Saw Blade – Table Saw Blade
Grr-Ripper Push Block – Grr-Ripper Push Block
Chamfer Router Bit – Chamfer Bit
Bench Cookies – Bench Cookies
Wood Scraper – Wood Scraper
Silicon Glue Brush – Silicon Glue Brush
Painters Tape – Painters Tape
Dust Respirator – Dust Respirator
Respirator Cartridge – Respirator Cartridge
Eye Protection – Eye Protection

Check All the Tools I Use

Woodworking Plans (Coming Soon)

I’m working on clean, printable plans for this chess board — they’re on the way and I’ll add them here as soon as they’re ready.

📌 Save THIS PIN to your Board on Pinterest!

How to Make a Wooden Chess Board — step-by-step build with clean squares.

Chess Board Size and Layout (Squares, Play Area, and Frame)

Before you cut anything, it’s worth deciding on the final size and the square layout. A chess board is always 8×8 squares, and the main thing that matters is that the squares are consistent and sized to match the pieces you want to use.

If you want a reference point, official tournament boards are typically built with 5–6 cm squares. My board is more compact on purpose. The finished size is 35 × 35 cm, with a 29 × 29 cm playable area inside the frame. That gives squares around 3.6 × 3.6 cm, which fits nicely on a normal table and still leaves enough space for most chess sets (especially smaller pieces).

The outer frame isn’t just for looks either — it also helps protect the rim from dents and chipping over time, which is handy if the board is going to be moved around and actually used.

How to Make a Wooden Chess Board (Step-by-Step)

Alright — let’s build it. I’ll walk through the process the same way I build edge-grain cutting boards: prep the strips, create the square pattern panel, add the frame, then flatten, trim, sand, and finish. I’ll include the key measurements I used along the way so you can adjust the size if you want a bigger or smaller board.

Step 1: Cut the Wooden Strips to Size (Beech + Walnut)

I started with beech and walnut boards that were already planed to 19 mm thickness. First, I ripped both species into strips that are 36 mm wide. Then I used my crosscut sled to cut the strips to 350 mm length.

At the end of this step, I had 4 beech strips and 4 walnut strips, all the same size: 36 × 350 mm (thickness stays 19 mm). Now we’re ready for the first glue-up.

NOTE: I cut them to 350 mm on purpose — that extra length gives me a buffer for clean crosscuts and trimming in the next steps.

Step 2: Glue Up the Strips (First Panel)

Before gluing, I do a quick dry fit and pay attention to orientation — which face goes “up,” how the grain looks next to each other, and whether I want to alternate growth rings to help keep things flatter. Once I’m happy with the order, I apply glue, bring the strips together, and clamp the panel.

I tighten the clamps gradually and keep an eye on alignment, so the strips stay flush and I don’t create extra work for flattening later. If I have space, I’ll also add a clamp across the top to help keep the panel as flat as possible while it cures.

While the glue is still soft, I wipe or scrape off the squeeze-out. After the panel dries, I use a scraper to remove any remaining dried glue before moving on.

NOTE: Try to keep glue off the surfaces as much as possible — dried glue can mess with sanding and can show up later when you apply finish.

Step 3: Crosscut the Panel into Blocks + Second Glue-Up (Make the Chess Pattern)

Once the first panel is fully dry, I move back to the table saw and start crosscutting it into “blocks” that will become the chessboard pattern. Since my square size is 36 mm, I set the stop/cut length to 36 mm and use the crosscut sled again for repeatable cuts.

Before I cut the whole panel, I always do a couple of test cuts. If you’re even slightly off here, the pattern won’t line up perfectly later — so it’s worth taking a minute to dial it in.

After all the cuts are done, I rotate every other strip to create the classic checkerboard pattern, then I do the second glue-up. This glue-up needs a bit more attention than the first one — I take my time to align the corners so the squares meet cleanly.

Just like before: remove squeeze-out while it’s soft, and scrape off any dried glue once everything cures.

TIP: During the second glue-up, align the corners and square lines first, then tighten clamps. If the corners are clean, the whole pattern usually follows.

Step 4: Flatten the Board (Planer or Router Flattening Jig)

After the second glue-up, the board is usually close — but not perfectly flat. You have a couple of good options here: you can flatten it with a planer, or you can use a router flattening jig (router sled). Both work, and each has pros and cons depending on your tools and how wide the board is.

If you want the full comparison (and when I’d pick which), here’s my guide:
👉 How to Flatten a Cutting Board: Planer vs Router Flattening Jig

For this chess board, I used the planer. To avoid tear-out on the ends (and reduce the risk of snipe), I glued two sacrificial wood pieces to both sides of the board. These take the damage instead of the chess board itself. Then I ran the board through the planer with very light passes, a few times, until it was flat and level.

NOTE: When you glue the sacrificial pieces on, use only a small amount of glue. You don’t want a super-strong bond — after planing, you want them to pop off easily.

TIP: Take shallow passes and don’t rush. It’s safer for the board (especially the corners) and you’ll get a cleaner surface for sanding later.

Step 5: Build and Attach the Frame (Beech Frame + Walnut Inlay)

The frame is one of my favorite parts of this build — it makes the board look more finished, and it also protects the outer edges from dents and chipping. I made the frame from beech, 12 mm thick and 30 mm wide, going all the way around the board. For a bit of extra detail, I also added a thin walnut inlay in the frame just for contrast.

First, I ripped the frame strips to width. Then I placed them around the chess board, marked the exact miter positions, and moved to the table saw. For accurate cuts I used my picture frame jig to cut all the miters. This is a step where it’s worth slowing down — if the cuts are even slightly off, you’ll see gaps in the corners.

Once the pieces fit nicely, I added glue, placed the frame around the chess board, and used a picture frame strap clamp to pull everything tight and square. While the glue was still wet, I cleaned up squeeze-out. After the glue dried, I used a router jig to add a small bevel around the frame edges to soften it and give it a nicer finished look.

NOTE: Don’t over-tighten the strap clamp — you want the corners to close, but you don’t want the frame to slide out of position.

Step 6: Sand and Finish the Chess Board (Grain Raise + Oil)

This is the fun part — the step where everything comes together. I sanded the whole board from 80 grit up to 300 grit, making sure the surface feels even and the edges are clean. Then I lightly sprayed it with water to raise the grain. Once it dried, I sanded again (quick pass) to knock the fuzz down, and after that I moved on to finishing.

For the finish, I applied a few coats of Belinka oil, letting each coat soak in and then fully dry before adding the next one. This is the moment where the board really transforms — the beech and walnut fields deepen, the contrast becomes sharper, and the whole pattern starts to look “alive.”

TIP: Put wax paper (or a plastic sheet) under the board while oiling. Excess oil will drip or wipe off, and you don’t want it staining your workbench or table.

And that’s it — the board is done. LET’S play Chess! ♟️

NOTE: Don’t rush the drying. If the surface still feels oily, give it more time — the finish will look better and feel better once it’s fully cured.

Wrap-Up: A Chess Board That’s Fun to Build (and Even Better to Use)

This is a really nice weekend project. If you’ve made cutting boards before, a lot of the steps will feel familiar — ripping strips, glue-ups, flattening, sanding, finishing… it’s the same rhythm. And if you haven’t made cutting boards yet, then building this chess board is basically your first cutting board — and not just a simple one, but an edge-grain one. 😉

What I like about this project is that you get a finished piece that’s actually useful, looks great on the table, and teaches you a bunch of “core” woodworking skills in one build: clean glue-ups, keeping panels flat, accurate crosscuts, and a finish that makes the wood pop. Plus, you can easily customize it later — bigger squares, a different frame, or different wood combinations.

If you want to make builds like this easier (chess boards and cutting boards), here’s my full guide to the jigs I use and recommend:
👉 Best Jigs for Making Cutting Boards (And How to Use Them)

FAQs: How to Make a Wooden Chess Board

1) What size should the squares be on a wooden chess board?

It depends on your chess pieces. Tournament boards often use squares around 5–6 cm, but for a compact home board smaller squares can work great. In this build I used squares around 3.6 × 3.6 cm, which fits nicely on a normal table and works well with smaller to mid-sized pieces.

2) What are the standard dimensions of a chess board?

A chess board is always 8×8 squares. The overall size depends on your square size and whether you add a border/frame. For example, an 8×8 playing area made with 5 cm squares is 40×40 cm (plus any frame).

3) What wood is best for a wooden chess board?

The best approach is using one light hardwood and one dark hardwood for contrast. Beech + walnut works great (that’s what I used), but maple/walnut is also a classic combination. Choose stable hardwoods that machine cleanly and finish nicely.

4) How do you keep a wooden chess board from warping?

Use dry, stable wood, keep glue-ups flat during clamping, and flatten the panel after glue-up. A border/frame can also help protect edges, but good prep and even finishing are the big factors. Also try not to soak the board with water — wipe it clean instead.

5) What finish should I use on a wooden chess board?

A penetrating oil finish works really well because it’s easy to apply and makes the grain pop. I used Belinka oil on this board. Whatever you choose, apply it evenly (top and bottom if possible) and let it fully dry/cure before using the board.

This post How to Make a Wooden Chess Board (Step-by-Step DIY Guide) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

Best Wood Finishes for Cutting Boards (Food-Safe Oils, Wax, and Care Tips)

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 19 Mar 2026 14:00:00 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

Best Wood Finishes for Cutting Boards (Food-Safe Oils, Wax, and Care Tips)

Adding a finish to a cutting board is usually the very last step before you start using it. It’s the end of the whole process — the board is shaped, sanded, cleaned up, and finally ready. And honestly, I love this moment. You wipe on the oil and the board instantly “wakes up” — darker woods get richer, lighter woods get warmer, and the contrast between species pops right away. That’s the point where the board really comes alive.

Finishing isn’t just about looks though. The main job of oil/wax is protection and preservation: it helps slow down water absorption, keeps the wood from drying out, and makes the surface easier to wipe clean after daily use.

There are a lot of options out there, but these are my 3 go-to finishes for cutting boards:

Clark’s Oil + Wax (my favorite overall)
Easy to apply, great feel in the hand, and the wax adds a nice extra layer of water resistance.
Affiliate link: CLARK’S OIL + WAX
Belinka (great alternative option)
A solid, food-contact finish that I like when I want something a bit more “set and done” compared to basic oiling.
Mineral oil (simple and reliable)
The classic budget-friendly option. Easy maintenance and works on any board — you just reapply more often.
Affiliate link: FOOD GRADE MINERAL OIL

In the rest of this guide I’ll show you how I apply finish in my shop (I’ll do the full step-by-step on Clark’s), how often I refresh it, and what to avoid if you want a finish that’s truly cutting-board friendly.

If you’re building boards and want the full workflow (flattening, juice grooves, handles, edge profiles), start here:
👉 Best Jigs for Making Cutting Boards (And How to Use Them)

Why You Should Finish a Cutting Board
Food Safety Basics for Cutting Board Finishes
Choosing a Cutting Board Finish: Oil, Oil + Wax, or Food-Contact Oil
Comparison Table: Best Wood Finishes for Cutting Boards
Clark’s Oil + Wax (How I Apply It on Cutting Boards)
How Often Should You Oil a Cutting Board?
Wrap-Up: The Finish That Makes a Cutting Board Feel “Done”
FAQs

📌 Save THIS PIN to your Board on Pinterest!

Best Wood Finishes for Cutting Boards — food-safe oil + wax and easy care tips.

Why You Should Finish a Cutting Board

A cutting board finish is partly about looks — but mostly it’s about keeping the board in good shape long-term. Wood is always moving and reacting to moisture, and a board that’s left “raw” will dry out faster, absorb water more easily, and start looking tired much sooner.

Functionally, a good oil/wax finish helps with:

Preservation: slows down moisture exchange so the board doesn’t dry out as quickly
Easier cleaning: water and food juices don’t soak in as fast, so the board wipes cleaner
Less staining and odor: finished boards are less likely to pick up smells and deep stains
Hygiene (realistic expectation): it doesn’t make a board “sterile,” but a well-finished board is easier to clean and less likely to hold onto gunk in dry, fuzzy grain

And aesthetically, this is where the magic happens:

Grain and figure pop, contrast between wood species gets stronger
Dark woods get richer, lighter woods warm up
The board instantly looks more “finished” and professional

One important thing to keep in mind: finishing isn’t a one-time operation. Cutting boards need basic maintenance — reapply oil when the surface starts looking dry or “thirsty.” I’ll cover an easy rule of thumb for how often to refresh it later in the post.

Food Safety Basics for Cutting Board Finishes

When we talk about “food safe” cutting boards, it’s really a combo of two things: food-safe wood + the right finish. Most hardwoods we use for boards are naturally non-toxic and safe for food contact — but the finish matters, because it’s what you’re putting on the surface that touches your food every day.

What “food safe” actually means

For cutting boards, “food safe” usually means the finish is either:

non-toxic once cured, or
a non-curing oil/wax that’s commonly used for food-contact surfaces (and safe in normal use)

In practice, the goal is simple: you want something that won’t leave harmful residue, won’t turn sticky, and won’t chip off into your food.

What to avoid on cutting boards

I keep it pretty conservative here. I avoid anything that creates a hard “film” that can crack, chip, or peel over time — because cutting boards get chopped, scraped, and washed constantly.

I’d also avoid:

Cooking oils (olive oil, sunflower, etc.) — they can go rancid and smell over time
Anything that stays tacky/sticky (usually from heavy coats or the wrong product)
Finishes that don’t make sense for daily washing and knife contact

Quick note: End grain boards drink finish

End grain boards soak up finish like crazy — especially on the first few applications. The first time you oil one, you’ll be surprised how much it absorbs, and you’ll usually need to refresh the finish more often compared to face grain or edge grain boards. That’s normal — end grain is basically a bundle of tiny “straws,” and it wants to drink.

Choosing a Cutting Board Finish: Oil, Oil + Wax, or Food-Contact Oil

Most cutting board finishes fall into three simple buckets. They all work — the main difference is how they feel, how much protection they add, and how often you’ll reapply.

1) Oil (simple and reliable)

This is the classic option — mineral oil is the most common example. It’s easy to apply, affordable, and it makes the grain pop right away. The tradeoff is that it doesn’t “build up” much on the surface, so you’ll usually reapply more often, especially on end grain boards.

2) Oil + wax (my favorite feel and day-to-day protection)

This is my go-to for cutting boards. The oil soaks in, and the wax adds a little extra water resistance and a smoother, more finished feel. That’s why I like Clark’s Oil + Wax — it’s easy to apply, it looks great, and the board feels nicer in the hand.

3) Purpose-made food-contact oils (a more “set-and-done” option)

These are still oils, but they’re formulated specifically for wood that touches food. That’s where Belinka Oil Food Contact fits in. I like it as an alternative when I want a dedicated product for this purpose. It’s still a penetrating oil finish (not a hard varnish layer), but it can feel a bit more “finished” than plain mineral oil depending on how you apply and maintain it.

Quick takeaway:
If you want the simplest budget option, go mineral oil. If you want the best overall feel and a little extra protection, go oil + wax. And if you want a dedicated food-contact oil option, Belinka is a solid alternative.

Comparison Table: Best Wood Finishes for Cutting Boards

Finish	Best for	Look & feel	Water resistance	Application	When you can use it	Maintenance	Notes
Clark’s Oil	My main oil step before wax	Pops grain fast, natural feel	Medium	Wipe on, let it soak, wipe off	After it soaks in and feels dry to the touch	Refresh when the board looks dry (end grain more often)	Great “base layer” before wax; easy to reapply
Clark’s Wax / Board Butter	Top coat feel + extra water resistance	Smooth, slightly richer, “finished” feel	High (for a cutting board finish)	Rub in thin, let haze, buff	After buffing (once it’s not greasy)	Touch up when water stops beading or surface feels dry	My favorite combo with Clark’s Oil; great for serving boards too
Belinka Oil Food Contact	A dedicated food-contact oil option	Natural look, slightly more “set” feel than plain mineral oil	Medium to medium-high	Wipe on, let soak, wipe off (repeat as needed)	Once it’s dry to the touch (follow the label for full cure)	Refresh when the board looks dry or loses water beading	Good alternative if you want a purpose-made product for food contact
Food-Grade Mineral Oil	Simple, budget-friendly starting point	Nice grain pop, very neutral feel	Low to medium	Wipe on generously, let soak, wipe off	After excess is wiped off and it doesn’t feel oily	Most frequent reapply (especially end grain boards)	Works on any board; great “baseline” finish, just needs more upkeep

Tip: End grain boards absorb a lot more finish at first. The first few applications can disappear fast — that’s normal.

Clark’s Oil + Wax (How I Apply It on Cutting Boards)

This is the finish I use the most on cutting boards. It’s simple, it looks great, and it gives the board that “finished” feel without turning it into a hard film. It also spreads really nicely, and I genuinely like the smell — the one I use has a light citrus scent (they have other scents as well). The oil pops the grain, and the wax top coat leaves a nice subtle shine, adds a bit more water resistance, and makes the surface feel smoother in the hand.

Affiliate link (what I use): CLARK’S OIL + WAX

When I use it

I apply Clark’s at the very end, once the board is fully built and sanded. It works great on face grain, edge grain, and end grain boards — just keep in mind that end grain will drink a lot more oil at first. I also like it for serving boards, because the wax leaves a really nice feel in the hand.

My application steps (simple shop routine)

Final sanding + dust cleanup
I finish sanding, then wipe the board clean so there’s no dust left in the pores.
Oil coat (wipe on, let it soak, wipe off)
I wipe on a generous coat of oil, let it soak in for a bit, then wipe off the excess. If the board looks “thirsty” in spots, I’ll add a little more.
Let it rest
I give it some time so the oil settles in and the surface doesn’t feel greasy.
Wax coat (thin layer + buff)
I apply a thin wax coat, let it haze slightly, then buff it out. This is the step that makes the board feel smooth and finished.

Maintenance (how often I refresh it)

This isn’t a one-and-done finish. I refresh it whenever the board starts looking dry, feels rough, or water stops beading on the surface. End grain boards usually need more attention at the beginning, but once they’re “loaded up,” maintenance becomes pretty easy.

How Often Should You Oil a Cutting Board?

Oiling a cutting board isn’t a one-time thing. If you want the board to last and keep looking good, a quick refresh is part of normal maintenance — just like sharpening a knife.

1. Quick rule of thumb (new board vs. already finished)

New board: oil it a few times in the beginning until the surface stops “drinking” it instantly. New boards (especially end grain) soak up a lot at first.
Already sealed board: after that, you’re usually just doing quick touch-ups when it starts looking dry again.

2. Visual signs it’s time to re-oil

You don’t need a strict schedule — the board will tell you:

The surface looks dry or pale in spots
The board feels a bit rough instead of smooth
Water stops beading and starts soaking in quickly
End grain areas look especially “thirsty” compared to the rest

3. End grain vs edge grain vs face grain (what to expect)

End grain: needs the most oil at the start and usually the most frequent refresh. It’s basically a bundle of tiny “straws,” so it drinks finish fast.
Edge grain: middle ground — still benefits from regular oiling, but not as thirsty as end grain.
Face grain: usually the least demanding. It still needs maintenance, just not as often.

A simple habit that works well: if the board looks dry after washing and drying, it’s probably time for a quick oil refresh.

Wrap-Up: The Finish That Makes a Cutting Board Feel “Done”

If you ask me, oiling a cutting board isn’t optional — it’s part of what makes the board last. A good finish helps preserve the wood, slows down water absorption, and keeps the surface easier to clean and maintain over time. And just as important, it’s the step that makes the board look and feel “done.” The grain pops, contrast shows up, and the whole board suddenly has that finished, professional look.

My personal go-to is still Clark’s Oil + Wax. It’s easy to apply, it spreads nicely, it smells great (I like the citrus one), and the wax top coat leaves a smooth feel with a bit of extra water resistance. It’s a simple routine that works, and once you’ve done it a few times it becomes a quick habit — especially when you reapply only when the board starts looking dry or thirsty.

If you’re building cutting boards and want the full workflow (flattening, juice grooves, handles, edge profiles — and the jigs that make everything easier and more repeatable), start here:
👉 Best Jigs for Making Cutting Boards (And How to Use Them)

FAQs: Best Wood Finishes for Cutting Boards

1) What is the best wood finish for cutting boards?

For most home shops, a simple food-safe oil finish is the best choice because it’s easy to apply and easy to maintain. My personal favorite is an oil + wax system (like Clark’s Oil + Wax) because it gives the board a smooth “finished” feel and a bit more water resistance than plain oil.

2) Is mineral oil food safe for cutting boards?

Yes — food-grade mineral oil is widely used for cutting boards because it’s stable, odorless, and easy to reapply. The downside is that it doesn’t build much protection, so you’ll usually need to refresh it more often than an oil + wax finish.

3) How often should you oil a cutting board?

It depends on how often you use and wash it, and what type of board it is. As a rule of thumb, new boards need a few coats at the start, then you reapply whenever the board looks dry, feels rough, or water stops beading. End grain boards typically need more frequent oiling than edge grain or face grain boards.

4) What finishes should I avoid on a cutting board?

I avoid finishes that can chip or peel under knife use, and I also avoid cooking oils (like olive or sunflower oil) because they can go rancid and smell over time. Stick to finishes designed for food contact, like mineral oil or a proper oil + wax product.

5) Can I put a wax top coat on a cutting board?

Yes. A wax top coat (often beeswax-based) is a nice upgrade because it adds a smoother feel and improves water resistance. It won’t make the board waterproof, but it helps water bead up and makes cleanup easier. You still maintain it over time as the board dries out.

This post Best Wood Finishes for Cutting Boards (Food-Safe Oils, Wax, and Care Tips) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

How to Add Handles to a Cutting Board (Cutouts, Finger Grips & Slots)

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 12 Mar 2026 14:00:00 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

How to Add Handles to a Cutting Board (Cutouts, Finger Grips & Slots)

Adding handles to a cutting board is usually one of the later steps in the build — for me it comes right after the juice groove and edge profiles. It’s not strictly necessary (especially if you’re adding rubber feet), but it has a lot of benefits: the board is more comfortable to pick up and move around, easier to carry to the sink, and it instantly gives the project a more professional, finished look.

Just to keep the naming clear: people call these handles by different names — cutouts, slots, finger grips, finger grooves… and sometimes the same style gets called two different things. In this post I’ll focus on the two styles I actually use: an underside finger grip (my go-to), and a side finger groove/slot as an alternative.

Most of the time I stick to the underside grip because it feels natural and the board is easy to lift and carry. The best way to cut handles is with a router, ideally with a simple handle jig or a router table once you’ve dialed the setup in.

If you want the full cutting board workflow (and the jigs that make it easier), start here:
👉 Best Jigs for Making Cutting Boards (And How to Use Them)

The 2 Handle Styles I Use Most
Why Add Handles to a Cutting Board?
Tools You Need to Add Handles (Handheld Router vs Router Table)
Router Bits for Cutting Board Handles (What I Use and Why)
Handle Type 1 — Underside Finger Grip (Handheld Router + Jig or Router Table)
Handle Type 2 — Side Finger Groove / “Side Slot” (Round Nose Bit + Router Table)
Burn Marks on Handles (Causes, Prevention, Fix)
Wrap-Up: A Simple Upgrade That Makes a Big Difference
FAQs: How to Add Handles to a Cutting Board

Save THIS PIN to your Board on Pinterest!

How to Add Handles to a Cutting Board — underside finger grip + router bit setup.

The 2 Handle Styles I Use Most

There are a few different handles you can add to a cutting board. In this guide I’ll focus mainly on the two styles I actually use in my shop: the underside finger grip (my go-to) and the side finger groove. And if you want an even simpler “no-routing-jig” option, you can also add small chamfers on the sides — it’s not a full handle, but it definitely makes the board easier to grab.

1) Underside finger grip (my go-to)

This is the handle I use the most. It’s routed on the lower part of the side, usually centered and around 100 mm / 4″ long. Your fingers slide underneath the board, so it feels natural to lift and carry — and the handle stays pretty subtle from the top.

Bits I use: straight bit (deeper grip) or cove bit (comfortable shape)

2) Side finger groove / “side slot” (good alternative)

This one is routed into the side face of the board, usually centered. Your fingers grip from the side instead of underneath. I like it as an alternative when I want a clean side detail or I don’t want to remove as much material from the underside.

Bit I use: round nose / ball nose bit

Optional “super simple” handle: small side chamfers

If you don’t want to route a full handle, a small chamfer on the side edges can still improve grip and comfort. It’s quick, looks clean, and it’s a nice option on thinner boards or boards with rubber feet.

Why Add Handles to a Cutting Board?

Handles are one of those features that you don’t fully appreciate until you use the board for a while. A bigger cutting board can get surprisingly heavy, and once it’s wet it can feel awkward to lift — especially if the edges are clean and sharp.

What handles improve right away:

Easier handling: you can pick the board up, flip it, and carry it without pinching the edge
More comfort and control: your fingers have a natural grip point, so the board feels more secure (especially at the sink)
Better “finished” look: even a subtle underside grip makes the board feel more designed and professional
Big payoff for little work: it’s a quick routing step that adds function without changing the overall build much

Tools You Need to Add Handles (Handheld Router vs Router Table)

You can cut cutting board handles two ways — handheld router or router table — and honestly, both work great. It’s the same approach as edge profiles: once you have a setup you like, it really pays off. You don’t need to rebuild your whole process every time… most of the time you’re just swapping bits and running the next operation.

Here’s what I use (and what I recommend):

Router (handheld or plunge router)
Works perfectly for both underside grips and side grooves. A plunge router can feel a bit easier for consistent depth, but a standard router works fine too.
Router table (optional, but super consistent)
A router table is great when you want repeatable cuts and a stable setup. If your table is already set up, it’s often faster to run multiple boards without fussing around.
👉 DIY Benchtop Router Table
Handle jig / guide jig (recommended for repeatability)
A simple handle jig keeps your routing straight, centered, and consistent — especially for underside grips.
👉 DIY Cutting Board Handle Jig
Multi-purpose router jig (if that’s what you use in your shop)
If you already have a multipurpose jig that can guide the router for grooves/handles, it’s a great “one jig, many jobs” setup.
👉 Multi-Purpose Router Jig
Scrap wood for test cuts
This is underrated. A quick test cut tells you if the grip feels right before you touch the real board.

Quick note: handles are all about comfort — you need enough space to grab the board easily and maneuver it. I usually add rubber feet, so my underside handles can be a bit more shallow. Side grooves can feel slippery if they’re too shallow (that one is personal preference), so I always test the depth on scrap first.

Router Bits for Cutting Board Handles (What I Use and Why)

For cutting board handles, I keep it simple — a few basic bits cover everything I do. Once your router setup is dialed in (handheld or router table), it’s usually just a matter of swapping the bit and routing the same handle length and position.

Straight bit (for deeper underside grips)

This is my go-to when I want the underside finger grip to have a bit more “hook” and space for your fingers. It cuts clean walls and gives you a deeper pocket-style grip.

Affiliate link (my go-to straight bit): STRAIGHT BIT

Cove bit (for shallow underside grips)

I use a cove bit when I want a more rounded, comfortable shape but I don’t want to remove too much material — especially if I’m planning to add rubber feet and the board sits higher anyway.

Affiliate link (cove bit): COVE BIT

Round nose / Ball nose bit / Core box bit (for side finger grooves)

This is my main bit for the side finger groove handle. It gives you a smooth rounded groove that feels good in the hand and looks clean from the side.

Affiliate link: CORE BOX BIT

Handle Type 1 — Underside Finger Grip (Handheld Router + Jig or Router Table)

This is my go-to handle style. It’s subtle, comfortable, and it makes the board much easier to lift — especially bigger boards. Below are the two ways I cut it most often, depending on what setup I already have on the bench.

Option 1: Straight Bit + Handle Jig (handheld router)

Turn the board upside down, place it on a workbench, and fix it in place — this part really matters. If the board wobbles or shifts while routing, the handle won’t be clean (and it can get sketchy fast).

Next, place the handle jig on the side of the board, center it, set your depth, and clamp it down. My jig gives me a handle length of 100 mm / 4″. Once everything is locked in, start routing with light passes and repeat until you hit your final depth. If I’m adding rubber feet, I usually go for about 8 mm (~5/16″) deep.

Option 2: Cove Bit + Router Table (with stoppers)

This is a clean and repeatable way to do underside grips if your router table is already set up. Set your stoppers on the left and right to control the handle length. Then make sure the bit is centered so the handle ends up centered on the board as well.

Start with light passes and repeat until you reach your depth. Again, if the board will get rubber feet, I usually stop around 8 mm (~5/16″) deep — enough room to grab the board easily without removing too much material.

Handle Type 2 — Side Finger Groove / “Side Slot” (Round Nose Bit + Router Table)

This handle style is routed into the side face of the board, centered on the long edge. It’s a clean look, it feels good when it’s deep enough, and the router table makes it very repeatable once you’ve set your stoppers.

Round nose bit + router table (my setup)

Set the stoppers on the router table on both the left and right side to control the handle length. Then make sure the bit is centered so the groove ends up centered on the board — both along the length and vertically on the side face.

To start the cut, I dive in vertically, then make a light pass. Repeat a few times until you reach the depth that feels right. I usually end up around 5–8 mm (~3/16″–5/16″) deep, depending on the board thickness and how “grippy” I want it to feel.

Burn Marks on Handles (Causes, Prevention, Fix)

Burn marks on handle cuts usually come from one thing: too much heat. That happens when the bit is rubbing instead of cutting cleanly — most often because the pass is too heavy, the feed rate is too slow, or the bit is dirty/dull (pitch buildup is a classic).

One more thing that gets overlooked: chips. If chips build up and get trapped between the bit and the wood, they create friction, heat up fast, and burn marks show up out of nowhere — so it really helps to clear chips as you go (especially on deeper grooves).

What you’re seeing	Main cause	How to prevent it	How to fix it
Dark burn marks along the handle cut	Feed rate too slow or pausing in one spot (bit rubs and heats up)	Keep a steady feed and don’t stop mid-cut; do lighter passes	Take a very light cleanup pass; if needed, sand the handle area to blend
Burning mostly on hardwoods (maple/beech/walnut)	Pass is too deep for the bit and setup	Do 2–4 light passes to reach final depth (especially for grooves)	Back off the depth, take a light finish pass, then sand lightly if needed
Burning keeps happening even with light passes	Dirty bit (pitch/resin) or dull cutting edges	Clean the bit regularly and use sharp carbide	Clean the bit first; if it still burns, replace/sharpen the bit
Burning with larger bits or wide contact area	RPM too high for bit size (more heat)	Lower RPM for larger bits if your router has variable speed	Reduce speed and take a light cleanup pass; sand if marks remain

Wrap-Up: A Simple Upgrade That Makes a Big Difference

If you ask me, adding handles is one of the best upgrades you can do on a cutting board — especially once you start making bigger boards. It’s a small extra step, but the payoff is huge: the board is easier to pick up, easier to move around, and just feels better to use day-to-day. And visually, a clean handle instantly makes the board look more “designed” and professional.

My personal go-to is still the underside finger grip. It feels natural, it’s comfortable to lift, and it stays pretty subtle from the top. But the side finger groove/slot is a great option too — it looks clean on the side and works really well as long as you give it enough depth so it doesn’t feel slippery.

Either way, the key is comfort: do a quick test cut, sneak up on the depth with light passes, and you’ll land on a handle that feels right in the hand.

If you want to make this step (and the whole cutting board build) easier and more repeatable, jigs help a lot — especially when you’re doing multiple boards. Here’s my full guide to the jigs I use for cutting boards:
👉 Best Jigs for Making Cutting Boards (And How to Use Them)

FAQs: How to Add Handles to a Cutting Board

1) What are the best handle styles for a cutting board?

The most practical handle styles are underside finger grips and side finger grooves/slots. Underside grips are subtle and very comfortable to lift, while side grooves look clean and work well as long as they’re deep enough to feel secure.

2) What router bits do I need to add handles to a cutting board?

For the handle styles in this guide, you only need a few basics: a straight bit for deeper underside grips, a cove bit for a more rounded shallow underside grip, and a round nose/ball nose bit for side finger grooves.

3) How deep should cutting board handles be?

It depends on the board thickness and what feels good in your hand. As a practical starting point, about 5–8 mm (3/16″–5/16″) works well for many boards. If you’re using rubber feet, underside grips are often a bit more shallow because the board sits higher off the counter.

4) How do I avoid burn marks when routing handles?

Burn marks come from heat, usually caused by a dirty/dull bit, too slow of a feed rate, or passes that are too heavy. Take light passes, keep a steady feed, and clear chips as you go so they don’t get trapped between the bit and the wood.

5) Do I need a jig to route handles in a cutting board?

You can do it without a jig, but a simple handle jig or router table setup makes the cut more repeatable and easier to center. If you’re making more than one board, a jig is one of those things that quickly pays off.

This post How to Add Handles to a Cutting Board (Cutouts, Finger Grips & Slots) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

Edge Profiles for Cutting Boards: Roundover vs Chamfer (How to Round Edges)

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 05 Mar 2026 14:00:00 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

Edge Profiles for Cutting Boards: Roundover vs Chamfer (How to Round Edges)

Adding edge profiles to a cutting board is usually one of the final steps in the build. It’s not strictly necessary, but it has a few big benefits: the board feels much more comfortable in your hands, the edges are less likely to chip or split over time, and it instantly gives the whole piece a more professional, finished look.

Most of the time I stick to two profiles — a chamfer or a roundover. You can experiment with other profiles too, but these two are simple, clean, and they work on basically any board. Personally, I prefer the chamfer because it feels more like a deliberate design choice (more “pro” in my head), but the classic roundover is always a safe, good-looking option.

The best way to cut these profiles is with a router — either handheld or at a router table — and I’ll show you exactly when I use each setup, which bits work best, and how to avoid tear-out and burn marks.

If you want the full cutting board workflow (including the router setups and jigs that make this easier), start here: 👉 Best Jigs for Making Cutting Boards (And How to Use Them)

Quick Answer: Chamfer vs Roundover (Which One Should You Use?)
Why Edge Profiles Matter on Cutting Boards
Tools You Need to Round Edges on a Cutting Board
Router Bits for Cutting Board Edges (Chamfer Bit vs Roundover Bit)
How to Cut Clean Edge Profiles (And Prevent Tear-Out)
How to Fix Burn Marks on Routed Edges
Wrap-Up: The Easiest Upgrade You Can Make to Any Cutting Board
FAQs: Edge Profiles for Cutting Boards (Roundover vs Chamfer)

📌 Save THIS PIN to your Board on Pinterest!

Edge Profiles for Cutting Boards — Chamfer vs Roundover (how to round edges).

Quick Answer: Chamfer vs Roundover (Which One Should You Use?)

If you’re choosing between these two edge profiles, you really can’t go wrong — both make a cutting board feel better in the hand and look more finished. But they do have a different “vibe” and a slightly different use case.

Chamfer (my default pick)

A chamfer gives you a crisp, clean edge that looks intentional — almost like a design detail instead of “just rounding it over.” It’s fast to cut, it looks great on both simple boards and nicer serving boards, and it’s easy to keep consistent once you dial in the bit height.

I’d choose a chamfer when:

you want a more modern, professional look
you like a clean line around the board
you want a profile that’s quick to route and easy to repeat
you’re okay with a slightly “sharper” feel compared to a roundover (still comfortable, just less soft)

Roundover (classic and super comfortable)

A roundover is the standard cutting board edge for a reason. It feels great in the hand, it’s forgiving, and it blends beautifully after a quick sanding pass. If you’re making a board that’s going to be used every day, this is the safe, comfortable option.

I’d choose a roundover when:

you want the softest feel in the hand
you prefer a classic look
you want the most forgiving profile (especially if you’re new to routing)
you’re doing a board for heavy daily use and want that smooth “grab it anywhere” comfort

My simple recommendation:
If you want a slightly more “designed” look, go chamfer. If you want maximum comfort and a classic finish, go roundover. And either way — a light sanding pass at the end is what really makes the profile look clean.

Why Edge Profiles Matter on Cutting Boards

Edge profiles are one of those “small effort, big upgrade” steps. A sharp 90° edge might look fine right after sanding, but in real use it’s not that comfortable to grab — and corners are the first place that get dinged when the board gets moved around, bumped on the counter, or washed and dried over and over.

A simple chamfer or roundover fixes all of that. It makes the board noticeably more comfortable in the hand, especially when you’re lifting it, flipping it, or carrying it to the sink. It also helps protect the board long-term, because eased edges are less likely to chip, split, or splinter, and they don’t feel “sharp” even if the wood moves a bit with humidity.

And then there’s the look: adding a clean profile instantly makes the board feel more finished — almost like it was designed that way from the start. Even if the rest of the build is simple, a neat edge profile gives the board a professional, intentional finish without adding a bunch of extra steps.

Tools You Need to Round Edges on a Cutting Board

You don’t need a ton of gear to add a clean edge profile — but having a solid setup makes it a lot more enjoyable (and way more consistent). Once you dial it in, it’s one of those steps that just flows, especially if you’re doing more than one board.

The reason I’m mentioning handheld router vs router table is simple: it’s the same idea you’ll use not only for edge profiles, but also for handles and cutouts. You set up your router once, get the feel for it, and then you can run through boards quickly. Whether you do it handheld or on a router table, the payoff is that you don’t really need to change the whole setup — most of the time you’re just swapping bits.

Here’s what I use (and what I recommend):

Router (handheld or plunge router)
A handheld router works perfectly fine for edge profiles. If you’re comfortable with it, a plunge router can feel even more controlled when you’re setting bit height.
Router table (optional, but the easiest way to get repeatable results)
For profiles, a router table is honestly the “cheat code.” The board stays flat, your hands are farther from the bit, and it’s much easier to keep the profile consistent around the whole perimeter.
👉 Benchtop Router Table
Chamfer bit and/or roundover bit
These two cover 95% of cutting board edges. If you’re only buying one to start, pick the profile you like most and get a decent-quality carbide bit.
Sanding block + sandpaper (and also a solid alternative)
Even if you route the profile, a quick sanding pass makes it feel finished and blends everything together (especially on end grain corners). And if you just want to break the edges and don’t care about perfect precision, a sanding block alone works really well too.
👉 Sanding Block
Bench cookies (makes handheld routing easier)
If you’re routing handheld, bench cookies are a simple upgrade — the board won’t slide around, and you can work the edges without fighting the workpiece.
Affiliate link: BENCH COOKIES
Clamps + a stable work surface
If you’re not using bench cookies, clamp the board down. A moving board is how you get uneven profiles (and scary moments).
Scrap wood for test cuts
One quick test cut tells you if the profile is too big, too small, or exactly right before you touch the real board.

Quick note: If you’re routing end grain edges, plan on doing multiple light passes and a little sanding — that’s where profiles can tear out if you rush.

Router Bits for Cutting Board Edges (Chamfer Bit vs Roundover Bit)

For cutting boards, these are the two edge bits I use the most. They’re easy to control, they look great, and they instantly make the board feel more “finished.” You can run both handheld or on a router table — once your setup is dialed in, switching between them is basically just swapping the bit.

Chamfer bit (my preferred profile)

A chamfer gives you a crisp, clean line around the board. In my mind it looks a bit more designed and professional, and it’s also quick to route because you’re just creating a simple bevel.

Why I like it:

Modern, clean look (very “pro” with minimal effort)
Easy to keep consistent once the bit height is set
Great on both cutting boards and serving boards

Affiliate link (chamfer bit): CHAMFER BIT

Roundover bit (classic option)

Roundover is the traditional cutting board edge for a reason. It feels super comfortable in the hand, it’s forgiving, and it blends beautifully after a quick sanding pass.

Why it’s a great choice:

Soft, comfortable feel (especially for daily-use boards)
Very forgiving to route
Easy to “finish perfect” with sanding

Affiliate link (roundover bit): ROUNDOVER BIT

TIP: You don’t need a huge roundover radius for most boards — a small roundover (or a light chamfer) already makes a big difference.

How to Cut Clean Edge Profiles (And Prevent Tear-Out)

Cutting a chamfer or roundover is pretty straightforward — the difference between “okay” and “perfect” is usually router direction, support, and pass depth.

Route direction: go counter-clockwise around the board

When you’re profiling the outside edge of a cutting board, you generally want to move counter-clockwise around the perimeter. The reason is simple: with a normal router rotation, this keeps the bit pulling the router into the work instead of trying to climb away from it. It feels more controlled, you’re less likely to lose your line, and you’ll get a cleaner profile.

(If you go the other way, the router can want to “run” along the edge — that’s where you get those little jumps and uneven spots.)

Router table vs handheld router (I use both)

I use whichever setup is already on the bench. The nice thing is you can cut both edge profiles and handles either way — handheld or on a router table — so once you have a setup you like, you don’t need to reinvent the process every time. Most of the time it’s just swap the bit and keep moving.

Router table: easiest for repeatable edges, stable board support, and consistent results
Handheld router: great when the board is large/awkward, or when it’s easier to bring the tool to the work

Light passes = cleaner cuts (and less tear-out)

This is the big one. Don’t try to route the full profile in one go. Take 2–3 light passes until you hit your final depth. It’s smoother, easier on the bit, and it massively reduces tear-out — especially on end grain corners.

Extra tear-out prevention tips (quick but effective):

Start with a test cut on scrap to dial in bit height
Keep the board fully supported (router table, clamps, or bench cookies)
On end grain corners, take it slow and don’t rush the feed rate

If you do those three things — counter-clockwise direction, stable support, light passes — your edges will come out clean and consistent almost every time.

How to Fix Burn Marks on Routed Edges

Burn marks usually come from one thing: too much heat. That happens when the bit is rubbing instead of cutting cleanly.

What it is	Main cause	How to prevent it	How to fix it
Bit is rubbing instead of cutting	Too much heat from friction (common when feed is too slow or you pause)	Keep a steady feed rate and don’t stop mid-edge	Make a very light cleanup pass; if needed, sand the edge to blend the profile
Dull or dirty router bit	Pitch/resin buildup or worn cutting edges	Clean the bit regularly; use sharp carbide and don’t force heavy cuts	Clean the bit first; if burning continues, replace/sharpen the bit
Too deep of a pass	Bit struggles, heats up, and leaves burn marks (especially on hardwood)	Do 2–3 lighter passes to reach final depth	Back off the depth and take a light finish pass; then sand lightly if needed
Bit speed too high for the cutter size	Large diameter bits at high RPM generate more heat	Lower RPM for larger bits if your router has variable speed	Reduce speed and take a light cleanup pass; sand if burn marks remain

Quick tip: If burn marks keep happening even with light passes and steady feed, it’s almost always a dirty or dull bit.

Wrap-Up: The Easiest Upgrade You Can Make to Any Cutting Board

If you ask me, adding an edge profile is the easiest “small step, big payoff” upgrade you can do on a cutting board. It doesn’t take long, it doesn’t require fancy tools, and it instantly makes the board feel more finished — both in your hands and on the bench.

My personal favorite is still the chamfer. I like that clean, crisp line around the board — it looks intentional and a bit more “designed” in my eyes. But the classic roundover is always a great choice too, especially if you want the softest feel for a board that gets used every day. Either way, a simple profile helps protect the edges, reduces the chance of little chips and splinters over time, and makes the board much nicer to grab, flip, and carry.

And the best part is: once you dial in your router setup, it becomes a quick repeatable step. A couple of light passes, a fast sanding touch-up, and the board suddenly looks like it came out of a proper shop.

If you want to make the whole cutting board process easier (flattening, juice grooves, handles, edge profiles — everything), here’s my full guide to the jigs I use:
👉 Best Jigs for Making Cutting Boards (And How to Use Them)

FAQs: Edge Profiles for Cutting Boards (Roundover vs Chamfer)

1) Is chamfer or roundover better for a cutting board?

Both work great — it mostly comes down to look and feel. I prefer a chamfer because it gives the board a clean, modern “designed” edge with very little effort. A roundover is the classic option and usually feels a bit softer in the hand, especially for daily-use boards.

2) What router bit should I use to round edges on a cutting board?

Use a roundover bit to create a rounded edge profile. You don’t need a huge radius — even a small roundover makes the board feel more finished. If you want a crisp bevel instead, use a chamfer bit.

3) How do I prevent tear-out when routing cutting board edges?

The easiest fixes are: take 2–3 light passes, keep the board fully supported, and slow down on the end grain corners. A test cut on scrap helps a lot too. Most tear-out happens when you try to cut the full profile in one pass or rush the corners

4) Why am I getting burn marks when routing the edge profile?

Burn marks are usually heat from friction — most often caused by a dirty/dull bit, moving too slowly, pausing in one spot, or taking too heavy a pass. Clean the bit, take lighter passes, and keep a steady feed rate. For larger bits, lowering RPM can help too.

5) Can I round over a cutting board without a router?

Yes. If you just want to break the sharp edges, you can do it with a sanding block and sandpaper. It won’t be as perfectly consistent as a routed roundover, but it’s a great option for quick boards, small bevels, or final blending after routing.

This post Edge Profiles for Cutting Boards: Roundover vs Chamfer (How to Round Edges) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

Best Router Bits for Cutting Boards (Profiles, Grooves & Flattening)

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 26 Feb 2026 14:00:00 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

Best Router Bits for Cutting Boards (Profiles, Grooves & Flattening)

If you make cutting boards, a router is one of those tools that can take your project from “nice homemade” to “this looks like it came from a shop.” It’s not just about looks either — the right bit makes your board more comfortable to hold, easier to clean, and much more repeatable when you build more than one.

And if you’re also building (or planning to build) a few jigs for cutting boards, start here first:
👉 Best Jigs for Making Cutting Boards (And How to Use Them). That post ties everything together — flattening, juice grooves, templates, and the jigs that make routing safer and more accurate.

If you only buy 3 router bits for cutting boards, get these:

✅ 1) Surfacing / Spoilboard Bit (Flattening bit)
This is the bit that makes a flattening jig/router sled actually worth using. It removes material fast and leaves a clean, even surface — perfect for leveling glue-ups, wide boards, or anything that doesn’t fit through a planer.

✅ 2) Core Box / Round Nose Bit (best “juice groove” bit)
If you want clean juice grooves that look professional, this is the easiest path. It’s stable, predictable, and leaves a groove that feels intentional (not like a random trench).

✅ 3) Roundover Bit (the must-have edge profile)
This is the “comfort bit.” It softens edges, improves grip, and instantly makes a board feel finished. I use it on almost every board unless I’m going for a sharp, modern chamfer.

And yes — there are more router bits that are super useful for cutting boards (flush trim bits for templates, chamfers, coves, straight bits, etc.). I’ll break those down below by phase of the build, so you can see exactly when each one is used and why it matters.

Why router bits matter on cutting boards

Cleaner results: crisp edges, smooth grooves, fewer burn marks and “oops” moments
More consistency: once you dial in a setup, every board comes out the same
Better feel in the hand: eased edges and smart profiles make a board feel premium
Real function: juice grooves, finger holds, handle cutouts — not just decoration

What to look for in a cutting board router bit

For cutting boards, I mainly care about stability and clean cuts. If a bit is available in 1/2″ shank, I’ll pick that — it runs smoother and chats less, especially on bigger bits like surfacing and roundovers. I also stick to sharp carbide (hardwoods will burn and tear out fast with cheap dull bits). And for anything template-based (handles, shapes), a good bearing matters more than you’d think — a rough bearing can leave a wavy edge even if the cutter is fine.

And honestly, whatever you have to start with is usually good enough — you can always upgrade later once you know which bits you’re reaching for the most.

Quick note: Some links in this article may be affiliate links — it doesn’t cost you extra, and it helps support the builds and free plans on AllFlavor Workshop.

Cutting Board Workflow: Where Each Router Bit Fits
1/4″ vs 1/2″ vs 8mm Shank Router Bits (Cutting Boards)
Wrap-Up: Start Simple, Upgrade as You Go
FAQs: Best Router Bits for Cutting Boards

📌 Save THIS PIN to your Board on Pinterest!

Best Router Bits for Cutting Boards — the 3 must-have bits (plus when to use them).

Cutting Board Workflow: Where Each Router Bit Fits

Most cutting boards go through the same basic phases — face grain, edge grain, end grain… the order is usually similar. The router steps are the ones that give the board that clean, “finished” look, and they also help you solve a few problems along the way (flattening, grooves, comfort edges, handles).

Here’s when you actually use the bits during a real cutting board build:

1) Flattening + Surfacing (flattening the board, start to finish)

This isn’t only for fixing a bad glue-up. Flattening and surfacing can happen during stock prep, between glue-ups, or at the very end when you want the board perfectly flat and clean. It’s also the go-to method if you don’t have a planer, and it’s often the safer option for end grain boards (many people avoid planing end grain altogether).

You’ll use:

✅ Surfacing / Spoilboard bit → flatten faces in a router sled / flattening jig, clean up glue-ups, level the whole board
✅ Straight bit (optional) → small cleanup passes, trimming ridges, working tight spots where a big surfacing bit won’t fit

Typical moment in the build: during prep (optional), after glue-ups, and/or as a final flattening step before juice grooves and edge profiles.

2) Juice Grooves (routing a clean groove in a finished board)

This is usually done once the board is flat, sized, and sanded to a decent level, because you want the groove to look clean and even. A router + guide jig makes this super repeatable.

You’ll use:

✅ Core box bit / round nose bit (my preferred) → simple, clean groove with a rounded bottom
✅ Bowl & tray bit (also a great option) → wider “tray style” groove that looks very intentional and professional

Typical moment in the build: after flattening and most sanding, before final touch-up sanding and edge breaking.

3) Edge Profiles (small effort, big upgrade)

This is the fastest “pro upgrade” you can do. Even a small profile makes the board feel better in the hand, looks cleaner, and helps prevent splintery edges over time.

You’ll use:

✅ Chamfer bit (my preferred) → crisp, modern, looks professional with almost no effort
✅ Roundover bit (standard option) → softer feel, classic look, easy to control

Typical moment in the build: after the juice groove and sanding (so the profile stays clean and you don’t have to re-sand as much).

4) Handles + Cutouts (comfort + style at the end)

Handles make boards easier to pick up, easier to move, and they add a nice “designed” look. There are a few ways to route them, but these two bits cover the most common handle styles.

You’ll use:

✅ Straight bit → handle cutouts, pockets, and clean rectangular openings (especially with a simple template or fence setup)
✅ Core box bit → rounded finger grooves and comfortable hand holds with a smooth bottom

Typical moment in the build: typically near the end, once the board is flat, shaped, and you know exactly where you want the handle.

Router Bits for Flattening Cutting Boards (Surfacing + Straight Bit)

If I had to pick one routing setup that really changes the game for cutting boards, it’s a router flattening jig (router sled) paired with a surfacing / spoilboard bit. This combo lets you flatten boards that don’t fit your planer, level glue-ups, and get end grain boards dead flat without stressing a planer.

If you want to build the same setup I’m using, here’s my full guide: Router Flattening Jig

1) Surfacing / Spoilboard Bit (the main flattening bit)

Affiliate link (my go-to surfacing bit): SURFACING / SPOILBOARD BIT

This is the bit that does the heavy lifting. A larger diameter surfacing bit removes material evenly and keeps the surface consistent, which is exactly what you want when flattening a whole cutting board.

Practical tips:

Take shallow passes and let the bit do the work (cleaner surface, less chatter).
A bigger diameter is faster, but stability matters more than speed — keep the router base supported (that’s why the flattening jig helps so much).
Expect light sanding afterwards — the goal is flat, not “finish-ready straight off the router.”

2) Straight Bit (optional, but handy)

I treat the straight bit as the “helper” bit. It’s not the main flattening tool, but it’s great for small cleanup passes (tiny ridges, corners), and for tight spots where a surfacing bit won’t reach cleanly.

Practical uses:

Cleaning up small ridges left after surfacing
Flattening narrow areas where your big bit can’t fit
Light trimming or squaring small sections if your build needs it

Router Bits for Juice Grooves (Core Box + Bowl & Tray Bit)

Juice grooves are usually one of the last “feature” steps on a cutting board — and they’re also one of the easiest ways to make a board look clean and professional. The key is doing it on a board that’s already flat and sanded, and then using a simple guide setup so the groove stays perfectly consistent.

If you want to build the same setup I’m using, here’s my full guide: Juice Groove Jig

1) Core Box / Round Nose Bit (my preferred juice groove bit)

Affiliate link (my go-to core box / round nose bit): CORE BOX / ROUND NOSE BIT

This is the simplest and most reliable juice groove bit. You get a smooth rounded bottom, the groove is easy to clean, and it doesn’t scream “over-designed.” If you want that classic groove that works on almost any board, this is it.

Practical tips:

Make the groove in 2–3 shallow passes instead of one deep cut.
Do a light final pass to clean up the bottom and walls.
Sanding afterwards is minimal if the bit is sharp and you don’t push too fast.

2) Bowl & Tray Bit (also a great option)

A bowl & tray bit is a great option if you want a slightly wider groove with a more “designed” profile. It’s especially nice on bigger boards where a thin groove can look a little lost.

Practical tips:

Go shallow and steady — wider cutters show mistakes more easily.
Keep the board supported and stable so the groove depth stays consistent.

Router Bits for Edge Profiles (Chamfer + Roundover Bit)

This is the fastest “pro upgrade” you can do to any cutting board. Even a small profile makes it feel better in the hand, looks cleaner, and gives the board that finished, intentional look — with very little effort.

You can cut the profiles freehand, or you can use a router table for that:

1) Chamfer Bit (my preferred profile)

Affiliate link (my go-to chamfer bit): CHAMFER BIT

Chamfers are quick, clean, and forgiving. You can keep them tiny (just breaking the edge) or make a slightly stronger bevel for a more modern style.

Practical tips:

Start with a small chamfer and increase only if it looks right.
Do the profile after the groove, then do a quick touch-up sanding pass.

2) Roundover Bit (classic option)

Affiliate link: ROUNDOVER BIT

Roundovers are the standard for a reason — they’re comfortable, safe, and very forgiving. If you like softer edges or you want a more traditional look, roundover is hard to beat.

Practical tips:

Do a light pass first, then a second pass if needed for a smoother cut.
Watch end grain corners — that’s where tear-out likes to happen.

Router Bits for Handles + Cutouts (Straight + Core Box Bit)

Handles are one of those features that make a board feel “designed.” They’re comfortable, practical, and they add style without needing fancy joinery. I usually do handles near the end, once the board is flat, shaped, and I know exactly where I want the grip to be.

If you want the jigs I am using for cutting handles, here they are:

1) Straight Bit (for handle cutouts and pockets)

Affiliate link (my go-to straight bit): STRAIGHT BIT

Straight bits are great for routing rectangular or rounded-rectangle cutouts, and they’re also useful for shallow handle pockets if you like that style.

Practical tips:

Drill out most of the waste first if you can (less stress on the router).
Take multiple shallow passes — handles are usually deeper than they look.

2) Core Box Bit (for rounded finger grooves)

Affiliate link: CORE BOX BIT

If you want a comfortable finger groove style handle, a core box bit is the easiest way to get that smooth rounded shape without overthinking it.

Practical tips:

Make a test cut first — finger grooves are all about feel.
Keep the groove shallow and comfortable rather than deep and aggressive.

1/4" vs 1/2" Shank Router Bits for Cutting Boards (And Where 8mm Fits In)

If you’re choosing between 1/4″ and 1/2″ shank router bits, the real difference is simple: stability. A thicker shank flexes less, runs smoother, and is easier to control — especially in hardwood and with larger bits.

When 1/4″ (6.35mm) is enough – go with 1/4″ when the bit is smaller and the cut is lighter:

Core box / round nose bits for juice grooves
Straight bits for small cleanup work and light handle routing
Small roundovers/chamfers when you’re just breaking the edge
With sharp carbide and shallow passes, 1/4″ works totally fine for a lot of cutting board work.

When 1/2″ (12.7mm) is worth it – choose 1/2″ when you want the smoothest cut and the least chatter:

Surfacing/spoilboard bits (flattening in a router sled)
Larger edge profile bits
Anything that removes a lot of material quickly
If you’re flattening boards often, 1/2″ is the size that feels the most “locked in.”

Where 8mm fits in (my personal go-to)

In many European shops (including mine), 8mm is the default, and honestly it works perfectly fine for cutting boards. I use 8mm for basically all operations — flattening (where applicable), juice grooves, edge profiles, and handle routing — and I don’t feel limited.

Bottom line: start with what fits your router. If you’re on 8mm, you’re in a great middle ground. If you’re choosing between 1/4″ and 1/2″, use 1/4″ for smaller bits and lighter cuts, and step up to 1/2″ for flattening and bigger cutters where stability matters most.

Wrap-Up: Start Simple, Upgrade as You Go

You really don’t need a huge router bit collection to make great cutting boards. In fact, a decent basic router bit set will cover most of the “everyday” work — edge profiles, grooves, and general routing — and it’s a perfectly fine way to start. I’d only avoid the absolute cheapest sets, because you’ll usually see it in burn marks, tear-out, and a rougher cut. That said, you don’t need to go premium from day one either. Try what you have, see what works, and upgrade only the bits you actually reach for the most.

The one bit that’s usually not included in sets (and makes the biggest difference on cutting boards) is the surfacing / spoilboard bit. Yes, you can flatten with a straight bit and get it done — but a surfacing bit is faster, more stable, and gives you a much more even surface. If you want to invest in one separate bit, this is the one that will pay off quickly, especially when paired with a router flattening jig/router sled.

One thing people forget: a sharp bit and a stable setup beat an expensive bit used poorly. Shallow passes, steady feed rate, and solid clamping will improve your results more than any “fancy” profile.

If you want to make the whole cutting board process easier, here’s my full guide to the jigs I use:
👉 Best Jigs for Making Cutting Boards (And How to Use Them)

📌 Save THIS PIN to your Board on Pinterest!

Cutting Board Router Bits Workflow — flattening, juice groove, and pro edge profile.

FAQs (Best Router Bits for Cutting Boards)

1) What are the best router bits for cutting boards?

For most cutting boards, you can cover almost everything with a few essentials: a core box (round nose) bit for juice grooves, a chamfer or roundover bit for edge profiles, and a straight bit for handle cutouts and general routing. If you also flatten boards with a router sled, add a surfacing/spoilboard bit — it’s the one bit that makes flattening faster and more predictable.

2) What router bit is best for a juice groove?

My preferred option is a core box / round nose bit because it leaves a clean groove with a rounded bottom that looks good and is easy to wipe out. A bowl & tray bit is also a great option if you want a wider, more “designed” groove.

3) Can I flatten a cutting board with a straight bit?

Yes, you can flatten with a straight bit, especially for smaller boards or light cleanup — but it’s slower and harder to keep perfectly even. A surfacing/spoilboard bit is simply better for flattening full faces, especially when used with a router flattening jig (router sled).

4) Are cheap router bits good enough for cutting boards?

Sometimes — but it depends. Very cheap bits are more likely to burn, tear out, or dull quickly in hardwoods like maple, beech, or walnut. A mid-range carbide set is usually the best “starter” value. Then upgrade the few bits you use the most (typically your edge profile bit and your juice groove bit).

5) Should I use 1/4", 1/2", or 8mm shank bits for cutting boards?

For larger bits and heavier cuts (like flattening), 1/2″ (12.7mm) is the most stable. 1/4″ (6.35mm) is fine for smaller bits like juice grooves and light profiling. In many European setups, 8mm is a great everyday size — I use 8mm for most cutting board routing and it works perfectly fine.

This post Best Router Bits for Cutting Boards (Profiles, Grooves & Flattening) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

How to Refinish a Cutting Board (Make It Look Brand New Again)

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 19 Feb 2026 14:00:00 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

How to Refinish a Cutting Board (Make It Look Brand New Again)

I made this edge grain cutting board a little over a year ago (walnut, padauk, ash, and beech), and I’ve been using it daily — and pretty heavily. Nothing “failed” on it. It still worked perfectly fine and could easily go for a few more years. But that’s exactly the point: a good cutting board doesn’t break… it just slowly shows wear.

The main things I noticed were small tear-outs around the juice groove, a lot of visible knife marks across the surface and edges, and even a few tiny pits/dimples from daily chopping. And honestly, it also simply needed a fresh round of oil and wax (which is something I consider normal monthly-ish maintenance). This time, I decided to go a step further and do a full refresh: I flattened the board again, cleaned up the juice groove, sanded everything smooth, then finished with oil and wax.

Once it was done, it looked like I had just built it.

💡 If you want to see the original build from scratch, here’s my full guide: Edge Grain Cutting Board (Step-by-Step).
💡 And if you want the exact jigs and tools I rely on (they’re the same ones you’ll use for refinishing), check out: Best Jigs for Making Cutting Boards.

Tools and Materials I Used
Before You Start: Quick Damage Check (What Needs Fixing?)
Let’s Begin (What We’re Doing in This Refinish)
Step-by-Step: How to Refinish a Cutting Board
Step 1: Remove the Rubber Feet
Step 2: Flatten the Cutting Board Surface (Remove Knife Marks + Pits)
Step 3: Re-Cut the Juice Groove (Clean It Up and Make It Look New)
Step 4: Sand the Board Smooth (Remove Router Marks + Prep for Finish)
Step 5: Oil and Wax (Bring the Color Back)
Step 6: Reinstall the Rubber Feet (Final Stability Check)
After: How the Board Looks Now
Wrap-Up
FAQs: Refinishing a Cutting Board

Tools and Materials I Used

These are the main tools I used to refinish this cutting board — you don’t need every single one, but this is what made the process quick, clean, and repeatable.

Affiliate note: Some of the links below are affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission (at no extra cost to you) if you buy through them.

Materials:

Cutting Board Oil – Cutting Board Oil
Cutting Board Rubber Feet – Rubber Feet
Sandpaper Sheets – Sandpaper Sheets
Sanding Discs – Sanding Discs

Tools:

Router – Router
Orbit Sander – Orbit Sander

Tools:

Router Flattening Bit – Router Flattening Bit
Router Juice Groove Bit – Juice Groove Bit
Bench Cookies – Bench Cookies
Double-Sided Woodworking Tape – Woodworking Tape

Check All the Tools I Use

📌 Save THIS PIN to your Board on Pinterest!

How to Refinish a Cutting Board — flatten, sand, oil & wax (before/after refresh).

Before You Start: Quick Damage Check (What Needs Fixing?)

Before you jump into sanding, take two minutes to “read” your board. A cutting board can look rough, but the fix depends on what kind of wear you’re dealing with — and whether you want a quick refresh or a full refinish.

Here’s what I check first:

Knife marks + scratches: normal after daily use. Light marks can be sanded out; deep ones usually need flattening first.
Small pits/dimples: these happen over time (especially on softer species). You can usually sand them out, but deeper pits may need a bit more material removed.
Juice groove tear-out: common if the groove gets scraped, washed hard, or just takes a beating. Re-routing the groove makes it look brand new again.
Dry, dull color: if the board looks “thirsty,” oil and wax will bring it back fast — but if you’re sanding anyway, do the finish last.
Bonus check (even if yours is fine): rocking/twist: put it on a flat counter and press on the corners. If it rocks, a quick flattening pass will save you a lot of frustration in the kitchen.

On my board, the structure was still perfect — no rocking and no twist — but the surface and groove clearly showed a year of heavy use. That’s why I went for a full refinish: flatten, clean up the groove, sand, then oil and wax.

Let’s Begin (What We’re Doing in This Refinish)

Once you know what needs fixing, the process is simple — here’s the exact order I follow to bring a board back to like-new.

Flatten the surface again (remove knife marks and bring the board back to level)
Clean up / reroute the juice groove (fix tear-out and refresh the edges)
Sand the entire board (surface + edges, remove router marks and scratches)
Oil and wax (bring the color back and protect the wood)

If your board only looks dry and dull, you can stop at oiling/waxing. But if you’ve got knife marks, rough spots, or a messy juice groove, this full refinish brings it back to that “new board” feel.

How to Refinish a Cutting Board

Step 1: Remove the Rubber Feet

If your board has rubber feet, take them off first. You’ll need a clean, flat underside for the next steps — especially if you’re flattening the surface and re-routing the juice groove. Feet can also get in the way when you clamp the board or run it through a jig, so it’s simply easier to work with the board “bare” during the refinish.

I just unscrew the feet, set the hardware aside, and keep track of which screws belong to which feet. Once the board is finished and re-oiled, the feet go back on at the very end.

Step 2: Flatten the Cutting Board Surface (Remove Knife Marks + Pits)

This is the step that brings the board back to “new.” After a year of heavy use, the surface usually has a mix of knife marks, small pits, and rough spots — and sanding alone can take forever if you’re trying to remove deeper wear. So I flatten the surface first, then do the final smoothing with sanding.

For this refinish, I used a router flattening jig together with my multi-purpose router jig and a flattening/surfacing bit. I set the depth so the bit cuts just a hair below the current surface — enough to remove the top wear layer, but not so deep that I’m wasting thickness. A lot of the fine cleanup happens in sanding anyway, so my goal here is simply: remove the damage while keeping the board as thick as possible.

💡 Tip: To prevent any movement, you can use double-sided tape to secure the board inside the jig (especially helpful if the board is heavy but you still want it locked in place).

Step 3: Re-Cut the Juice Groove (Clean It Up and Make It Look New)

This isn’t about adding a juice groove — it’s about refreshing the one that’s already there.

After a year of heavy use, the groove edges can get slightly worn, and small tear-out spots can show up (especially near the corners). Re-cutting the groove is one of the fastest ways to make an older board look brand new again.

I use my juice groove jig with a juice groove router bit. First I lock the board securely in the jig, then I set the depth to match the current groove depth — I’m not trying to make it deeper, just clean and level. A few steady passes is usually enough to straighten the edges and remove worn spots.

Important: When routing inside the board, go clockwise around the groove. And try to keep your movement steady — especially in the corners — to avoid burn marks and uneven “stop marks.”

Step 4: Sand the Board Smooth (Remove Router Marks + Prep for Finish)

After flattening with a surfacing bit, you’ll usually see light router tracks. You might not feel them much with your hands, but they’re visible — and sanding is what makes the board look truly “new” again.

I start with an orbital sander (variable speed helps) and sand the surface from 80 grit up to 200 grit to remove the flattening-bit marks and even everything out. Once the surface looks clean, I mist the board with a little water to raise the grain, let it dry, and then sand again for the final smoothness — this time from 120 grit up to 300 grit.

I also don’t skip the details:

I sand the juice groove by hand (so it feels clean and consistent)
I re-sand and soften the edges with a sanding block

As a final check, I use a straight ruler/straightedge across the board and look for any gaps (light) underneath. If you don’t see gaps and the board feels smooth, you’re ready for oil and wax.

Step 5: Oil and Wax (Bring the Color Back)

This is the most satisfying part of the whole refinish — it’s where the board instantly comes back to life. After sanding, the surface looks clean but a bit “dry” and pale. As soon as oil hits it, the colors deepen and the grain pops again. On my board you can really see the walnut darken and create that nice contrast against the lighter woods.

For finishing, I use Clark’s cutting board oil and wax. I apply several coats of oil, letting each one soak in before adding the next. Once the board stops drinking the oil, I switch to wax and rub it over the entire surface (top, bottom, and edges). Then I let it sit for a bit so the board can absorb it, and buff off the excess for a smooth, clean finish.

Step 6: Reinstall the Rubber Feet (Final Stability Check)

Once the finish is done and the board looks brand new again, the last step is putting the rubber feet back on. I screw them in, set the board on a flat surface, and check that it sits solid with no wobble.

💡 Tip: Even if your board is perfectly flat, your kitchen countertop might not be. If you feel a tiny rock, you can level it easily by adding a thin washer between the board and one foot — just enough to make it sit perfectly stable on the surface where you actually use it.

After all the flattening, sanding, and fresh finish, this board looks almost exactly like it did when I first made it. The juice groove is clean again, the surface is smooth, and the oil and wax bring the colors back to life.

Wrap-Up

Refinishing a cutting board isn’t complicated — it’s basically the same workflow you’d use when making one, just applied to a board that has seen real kitchen life. If your board still feels solid but looks tired, a refinish can bring it back to “like new” without building a new one from scratch.

The biggest takeaways:

Start with a quick damage check. If it’s only dry and dull, oil + wax might be enough. If you’ve got deep knife marks, pits, or a rough juice groove, a full refinish makes sense.
Remove as little material as possible. When flattening, take just the top layer — sanding will handle the rest, and you’ll keep your board thick.
Clean up the juice groove carefully. Match the existing depth, go clockwise, and keep your movement steady (especially in the corners).
Sanding is where the magic happens. Sand out router marks, raise the grain with water, then finish-sand up to a smooth grit before oiling.
Finish properly. Multiple coats of oil, then wax, makes the grain pop and protects the board for everyday use.
Feet are your last “stability check.” Put them back on, test for wobble, and don’t be afraid to level with a thin washer — sometimes the countertop is the problem, not the board.

💡 If you want to see the exact jigs I use when building (and refinishing) cutting boards, here’s my full roundup: Best Jigs for Making Cutting Boards.

FAQ

1) How often should I refinish a cutting board?

It depends on how heavily you use it. Light maintenance (oil/wax) can be done regularly when the board looks dry. A full refinish (flattening + sanding + groove cleanup) is usually only needed once the surface gets heavily scarred, the groove looks rough, or the board just feels “tired.”

2) Can I refinish a cutting board without a router flattening jig?

Yes. If the wear is light, sanding alone can work. But if you have deeper knife marks, pits, or you want to bring the board truly flat again, a flattening jig makes the job much faster and more consistent.

3) How do I fix tear-out or rough edges in a juice groove?

The easiest fix is to re-route the groove using a juice groove jig and the same style bit. Match the existing groove depth and take a few steady passes to clean up the edges. Moving clockwise helps keep the cut controlled and clean.

4) What grit should I sand to when refinishing a cutting board?

A good approach is starting coarse enough to remove marks (often around 80) and working up through the grits. After raising the grain with a light water mist, sanding up to around 300 leaves a smooth finish that feels great in use.

5) What’s the best finish after refinishing a cutting board?

A food-safe cutting board oil followed by wax works really well. Oil restores color and protection, and wax adds a nicer feel and extra water resistance. Apply multiple oil coats until the board stops absorbing quickly, then wax and buff.

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Restore a Wooden Cutting Board — resurface + refresh the juice groove (step-by-step).

This post How to Refinish a Cutting Board (Make It Look Brand New Again) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

Cutting Board Feet vs No Feet: Grip, Hygiene, and Airflow

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 12 Feb 2026 14:00:00 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

Cutting Board Feet vs No Feet: Grip, Hygiene, and Airflow

I add rubber feet to my cutting boards almost every time. It’s one of those “small details” that changes how the board feels in daily use — and it also makes the final piece look more finished.

The first reason is grip and handling. A board with feet sits slightly elevated, and combined with side handles it’s just easier to grab, lift, and move around. I really don’t like when a board sits flat on the countertop. Even with handles, it can be awkward to pick up — and if there’s a bit of water or liquid on the counter, the board can almost “stick” to the surface. It feels messy and annoying fast.

The second reason is the professional look. If you spend time building a thick, nice-looking board (especially an end grain board with all the features), rubber feet are that final touch that makes it look like a proper premium kitchen tool.

And there’s a practical bonus too: feet create airflow under the board. That helps with drying, keeps the underside cleaner, and reduces the chance of moisture sitting under the wood (which can lead to smells, mold, or warping over time).

💡If you’re building more cutting boards and want a repeatable workflow, check out my roundup: Best Jigs for Making Cutting Boards.

Quick Answer (Should You Add Cutting Board Feet?)

Add feet if you want better grip, easier handling, airflow underneath the board, and a more professional look. Feet also help keep the board from “sticking” to a wet countertop and make it easier to pick up.
Skip feet if you’re making a serving board (used on both sides), a small board where feet look awkward, or anything with an uneven underside (like live edge boards) where getting an even layout is hard.

🔗If you’re choosing between face, edge, and end grain boards (and how each behaves in the kitchen), see: Face vs. Edge vs. End Grain: Which Cutting Board Should You Make?

Quick Answer (Should You Add Cutting Board Feet?)
Cutting Board Feet vs No Feet (Grip, Hygiene, Airflow)
Grip and Safety
Hygiene and Moisture
Airflow and Drying
When I Don’t Use Feet
How to Install Rubber Feet on a Cutting Board (Step-by-Step)
Step 1: Mark the Foot Positions
Step 2: Predrill the Holes
Step 3: Install the Feet
Step 4: Check Stability (Fix Rocking if Needed)
Common Mistakes When Adding Rubber Feet (And Quick Fixes)
Wrap-Up
FAQs: Cutting Board Feet vs No Feet

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Cutting Board Feet vs No Feet — grip, hygiene, and airflow (quick comparison).

Cutting Board Feet vs No Feet (Grip, Hygiene, Airflow)

Here’s the quick side-by-side comparison so you can decide in 10 seconds whether feet make sense for your board.

Feature	With Rubber Feet	No Feet	My take
Grip & stability	More grip on the counter, less sliding during prep.	Can slide more (especially on smooth counters).	Feet for daily-use cutting boards.
Ease of picking up	Elevated board is easier to grab (especially with handles).	Can feel “stuck” flat on the counter, harder to lift.	Feet make a big difference here.
Water on the countertop	Board stays lifted; less chance of sticking to a wet surface.	Can suction/stick slightly when there’s moisture underneath.	Feet win for everyday kitchen mess.
Airflow & drying	Air can move underneath; underside dries more evenly.	Underside can stay damp longer if left flat.	Feet help long-term.
Hygiene	Less moisture trapped underneath; easier to keep the underside clean.	If left on a wet counter, moisture can sit underneath longer.	Feet are cleaner in real use.
Warping risk	Less risk of “damp underside” if the board is left out after washing.	Higher risk if one side stays wet longer than the other.	Feet reduce the risk.
Reversible use	Not really reversible (feet dictate the “bottom”).	Fully reversible — both sides usable.	No feet for serving boards.
Looks / “premium” feel	More finished, professional look (especially on thick boards).	Clean and simple, but can feel more basic.	Feet elevate the final look.
Layout challenges	Needs clean placement and a flat underside.	No hardware or layout needed.	No feet for live edge / uneven bottoms.
Best use	Kitchen cutting boards (prep work, moisture, daily use).	Serving boards (cheese, crackers), small boards, reversible boards.	Feet for cutting, no feet for serving.

Grip and Safety

Rubber feet do two things at once: they add grip, and they make the board easier to handle because it’s slightly elevated. Combined with routed handles, that small lift makes a big difference — the board doesn’t “stick” to the countertop and you can grab it without fighting it.

The bigger safety benefit is what happens over time. Even a well-made board can move a little with seasonal changes. If it twists slightly, one corner lifts and the board starts to rock. In the worst case, both ends lift a bit and the board can actually rotate around its center while chopping. That’s not just frustrating — it’s unsafe.

Feet help prevent that annoying movement, and they also make it easier to fix. If a board twists a little later on, you can often stabilize it by adding a tiny washer under one foot (instead of resurfacing the whole board).

💡 See it in action: Here’s one of my end grain builds where I always use feet: Chaotic End Grain Cutting Board.

Hygiene and Moisture

The hygiene side is pretty simple: feet help keep the underside of the board cleaner and drier.

When a board sits flat on a countertop, any water underneath can get trapped, and the board can stick to the surface. With feet, there’s separation — so water doesn’t pool under the board as easily, and you get a cleaner setup in real kitchen use.

This matters even more for end grain boards. End grain can absorb moisture faster, so anything that helps the board dry evenly (top and bottom) is a win for long-term stability.

Airflow and Drying

Feet create airflow under the board, which helps it dry more evenly — especially after washing.

That sounds like a small thing, but it matters. If the bottom of the board stays damp longer than the top, you’re more likely to see movement over time. Feet don’t magically prevent warping, but they do help reduce the “wet underside” problem and keep the board in a healthier environment.

And again — this is extra useful on thicker boards and end grain boards, where drying takes longer.

💡 Want a full start-to-finish workflow for making boards that stay flat? Check out: Tips for Making Cutting Boards (Face, Edge & End Grain).

When I Don’t Use Feet

For most cutting boards, I add feet almost every time. But there are a few cases where I skip them.

I usually don’t use feet on:

Serving boards (because I like them reversible, and they don’t see much liquid)
Very small boards (feet can look awkward and the layout can feel cramped)
Thin boards meant for drawer storage (feet don’t really fit the purpose)
Live edge / uneven bottoms where getting four feet perfectly aligned is difficult

In those cases, I prefer the board to sit flat, stay simple, and work nicely on both sides.

How to Install Rubber Feet on a Cutting Board (Step-by-Step)

1. What is a ruler marking gauge (and why it helps)?

A ruler marking gauge is basically a layout tool that lets you set an exact offset and then mark consistent lines from an edge. For rubber feet, it’s perfect: once you set it, you can mark every corner quickly, cleanly, and repeatably — no guessing, no measuring each corner separately, and your feet end up perfectly aligned.

2. Hardware I use (sizes)

I typically use rubber feet around 15–20 mm in diameter and 8–13 mm tall (roughly 0.6″–0.8″ wide and 0.3″–0.5″ tall). That size is wide enough to grip, and tall enough that you can easily get your fingers under the board. For screws, I use M2, M4 × 12, 16 mm.

💡 If you want to make the exact ruler marking gauge I use (and mark feet perfectly every time), check out my Ruler Marking Gauge Jig build — I also have plans for it.

Step 1: Mark the foot positions

Start by deciding how far from the edges you want the feet. I usually place them about 20–40 mm from the edges, depending on board size (bigger boards = slightly further in).
One important rule: don’t go closer than 15 mm from the edge — if the screw is too close, you increase the chance of splitting.

Step 2: Predrill the holes

Predrill shallow holes for your screw size. This step matters — screws can crack the board if you drive them into hardwood without a pilot hole.

Step 3: Install the feet

Screw the feet in firmly, but don’t overtighten. You want them secure, not crushed.

Step 4: Check stability (and fix rocking if needed)

Put the board on a flat countertop and test it. If it doesn’t rock, you’re done.
If it rocks, find which corner is high/low and add a thin washer between the foot and the board to level it out.

Common Mistakes When Adding Rubber Feet (And Quick Fixes)

Most problems with cutting board feet come down to placement, predrilling, and leveling — here’s how to fix them fast.

Mistake / Problem	What happens	Quick fix	How to prevent it
Feet placed too close to the edge	Higher chance of splitting, weak bite for the screw.	Move the feet inward and re-drill; plug old holes if needed.	Keep feet at least 15 mm from any edge.
Feet too far in (unstable corners)	Board can still feel “tippy” near the corners when chopping.	Reposition feet slightly closer to the corners.	Use a balanced layout: typically 20–40 mm from edges depending on board size.
No predrilling	Screw can crack the wood or force the foot to sit crooked.	Back the screw out and predrill properly, then reinstall.	Always predrill shallow pilot holes for your screw size.
Overtightening the screws	Feet can deform, sit uneven, or lose grip over time.	Loosen slightly and re-seat the foot flat.	Tighten firmly, but stop as soon as the foot is snug.
Board rocks after installing feet	The board wobbles on the counter and feels annoying (and unsafe).	Find the rocking corner and add a thin washer under one foot to level it.	Test on a flat countertop before calling it done; keep a few thin washers in the shop.
Uneven layout (feet not symmetrical)	Board looks “off” and can feel unbalanced when moving it.	Re-mark using a gauge, then reposition the feet.	Use a ruler marking gauge so all offsets match exactly.
Wrong foot size for the board	Small feet can slip; tall feet can feel awkward or look odd on small boards.	Swap to a more suitable size (wider for grip, lower for small boards).	For most cutting boards, ~15–20 mm wide and 8–13 mm tall is a good range.
Screws too long	Risk of poking through the top (worst case) or weakening the board.	Replace with shorter screws immediately.	Match screw length to board thickness; M4 × 16 mm works well for many boards but always double-check.

Wrap-Up

For most cutting boards that live on a kitchen counter, I strongly prefer rubber feet. They simply work: better grip, easier handling, cleaner drying underneath, and they give the board that little extra “premium” feel. And if the board ever twists just a tiny bit over time, feet make it easy to level it again without resurfacing.

What I can’t stand is working on a board that isn’t stable — rocking or slowly turning while you chop. It’s frustrating at best, and honestly, it can get dangerous.

The best part is that installing feet doesn’t take much time. With a ruler marking gauge, you can mark the positions in seconds, then it’s just predrill and screw them in.

💡 If you want the jigs I use for cutting boards (including the ruler marking gauge), check out Best Jigs for Making Cutting Boards. And if you want to see a full build from start to finish — including installing the feet — here’s my complete guide: Walnut DIY End Grain Cutting Board: Complete Step-by-Step Build Guide.

FAQ

1) Should a cutting board have rubber feet?

For most kitchen cutting boards, yes. Rubber feet improve grip, make the board easier to pick up, and help the underside dry by creating airflow. If you want a board that stays stable during prep, feet are a solid upgrade.

2) Do rubber feet make a cutting board more hygienic?

They can. Feet lift the board off the counter so moisture is less likely to sit trapped underneath. That helps the underside dry faster and keeps the “wet countertop” situation from turning into a damp, messy underside.

3) When should you skip feet on a board?

I usually skip feet on serving boards (because I want them reversible), very small boards, thin boards meant for drawer storage, and boards with an uneven underside (like some live edge boards) where feet are hard to align cleanly.

4) Where should rubber feet be placed on a cutting board?

A good starting point is near the corners, typically about 20–40 mm from the edges, depending on board size. I also avoid going closer than 15 mm to the edge to reduce the risk of splitting.

5) What screws should I use for cutting board rubber feet?

It depends on your board thickness, but I commonly use M2 (M4) × 16 mm screws with feet around 15–20 mm diameter and 8–13 mm tall. Always predrill pilot holes and confirm the screw length won’t come through the top.

This post Cutting Board Feet vs No Feet: Grip, Hygiene, and Airflow first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

AllFlavor Workshop

DIY Planer Stand with Storage: Make a Rolling Tool Cart

Video: How to Build a DIY Planer Stand with Storage

Table of Contents

Plans: Coming Soon

Materials Needed

Before You Start: Why Build a DIY Planer Stand?

Let’s Start Building!

How to Make a Planer Stand

Step 1: Build the Two Main Support Frames

Step 2: Glue and Finish the Two Frames

Step 3: Add the Inside Panels

Step 4: Add the Casters and Finish the Cart Core

Step 5: Make and Install the Tabletop

Step 6: Add the Shelves and Side Storage

Wrap-Up

FAQ

1. What is the best height for a DIY planer stand?

2. Should you bolt a planer to the stand?

3. What kind of casters should I use for a planer stand?

4. Can a planer stand also work as a rolling tool cart?

5. What else can you use a planer stand for?

How to Make a Wooden Mallet (Step-by-Step DIY Guide)

Video: Watch the Build

Table of Contents

Wooden Mallet Plans

Materials and Tools Used

Mallet Design Notes (Size, Wood Choice, and the Optional Decorative Parts)

Let’s Start Building! (before the step-by-step)

How to Make a Wooden Mallet

Step 1: Cut the Handle Pieces (Plywood Pattern + Walnut Core)

Step 2: Glue the Handle Blank + Prep the Tenon End (Wedge Slots)

Step 3: Shape the Handle (Final Grip)

Step 4: Build the Mallet Head + Install the Handle (Glue + Wedges)

Step 5: Sand and Finish the Mallet (Final Shape + Oil)

Wrap-Up: A Shop Mallet You’ll Use All the Time

FAQs: How to Make a Wooden Mallet

1) What wood is best for a wooden mallet?

2) How do you make a wooden mallet strong?

3) Do I need wedges for a wooden mallet handle?

4) What size should a wooden mallet be?

5) What finish should I use on a wooden mallet?

DIY Lumber Storage Cart (Rolling Rack for Boards + Offcuts)

Video: Watch the Build

Table of Contents

Woodworking Plans (Coming Soon)

Materials and Tools Needed

Cart Layout and Capacity (What Fits Where)

Let’s Start Building!

How to Make a DIY Lumber Cart

Step 1: Build the Cart Base (Base Panel + Back Supports)

Step 2: Cut the Inner Dividers + Start Building the Boxes

Step 3: Attach the Front Panel (Close the Case)

Step 4: Build and Install the Inner Dividers (Box Components)

Step 5: Install the Casters (Reinforce + Roll and Lock)

Wrap-Up: A Simple Build That Makes Your Shop Feel Bigger

FAQs: DIY Lumber Storage Cart

1) What is the best wood to use for a DIY lumber storage cart?

2) Should I use wood glue when building a lumber cart?

3) What casters should I use for a lumber cart on wheels?

4) How do I keep a rolling lumber cart from tipping over?

5) What should I store in a lumber storage cart?

How to Make a Wooden Chess Board (Step-by-Step DIY Guide)

Video: Watch the Build

Table of Contents

Chessboard Plans

Materials Used (Beech + Walnut)

Woodworking Plans (Coming Soon)

Chess Board Size and Layout (Squares, Play Area, and Frame)

How to Make a Wooden Chess Board (Step-by-Step)

Step 1: Cut the Wooden Strips to Size (Beech + Walnut)

Step 2: Glue Up the Strips (First Panel)

Step 3: Crosscut the Panel into Blocks + Second Glue-Up (Make the Chess Pattern)

Step 4: Flatten the Board (Planer or Router Flattening Jig)

Step 5: Build and Attach the Frame (Beech Frame + Walnut Inlay)

Step 6: Sand and Finish the Chess Board (Grain Raise + Oil)

Wrap-Up: A Chess Board That’s Fun to Build (and Even Better to Use)

FAQs: How to Make a Wooden Chess Board

1) What size should the squares be on a wooden chess board?

2) What are the standard dimensions of a chess board?