Do I need all these router jigs to start building cabinets?

Not at all. Start with one or two based on what you’re building. For example, if you need to cut dados for cabinet dividers or shelves, the adjustable dado jig is a great place to start. Building drawers? You’ll love the box joint jig. Once you see what you use the most, you can always add more later.

Can I use these jigs with a handheld router?

Most of these jigs work with a plunge router or compact handheld router. For router table jigs, you’ll need a router that can be mounted to a table or insert plate. I use the DeWalt D26200.

What’s the advantage of using a router jig over freehand routing?

Router jigs guide your cuts and add stability, which means cleaner edges, more control, and repeatable results. For cabinet work, accuracy matters — and jigs help you achieve that without the guesswork or wasted material.

Are there downloadable plans available for these jigs?

Yes. All the jigs mentioned in this article — except for the shelf pin jig — have downloadable PDF plans available. They include imperial and metric measurements, cutting lists, and step-by-step build instructions.

Woodworking Joinery – AllFlavor Workshop

How to Make a Wooden Mallet (Step-by-Step DIY Guide)

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 09 Apr 2026 14:00:00 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

How to Make a Wooden Mallet (Step-by-Step DIY Guide)

A wooden mallet is one of those workshop tools you end up using all the time — tapping parts into place, nudging assemblies, seating joints, and generally moving things without damaging them. In this guide I’ll show you how to make a wooden mallet step by step, but mine isn’t just functional — I also added a few design details to make it a bit more special.

The mallet is made from beech, walnut, and Baltic birch plywood. The main structure is solid hardwood (beech + walnut), and the plywood is there mainly for the decorative pattern. Everything is glued up with wood glue.

The finished size is 32.5 cm overall length, with a head length of 16 cm and a head width of 6 cm. I also cut the sides of the head at angles, which gives it a cleaner look.

And just to be clear — you don’t have to copy the decorative parts. The patterned plywood handle and the plywood strip in the head are optional. You can follow the same process with one hardwood (or just beech + walnut) and still end up with a simple, durable mallet that does the job.

If you want more builds like this (jigs, workshop tools, and downloadable plans), you can find everything in one place here: 👉 See all Woodworking Plans

Video: Watch the Build

If you want to see the whole process in action, here’s the build video — it shows the glue-up, shaping, and the finishing details up close.

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Wooden Mallet Plans
Materials and Tools Used
Mallet Design Notes (Size, Wood Choice, and the Optional Decorative Parts)
Make a Wooden Mallet (Step by Step)
1. Step 1: Cut the Handle Pieces (Plywood Pattern + Walnut Core)
2. Step 2: Glue the Handle Blank + Prep the Tenon End (Wedge Slots)
3. Step 3: Shape the Handle (Final Grip)
4. Step 4: Build the Mallet Head + Install the Handle (Glue + Wedges)
5. Step 5: Sand and Finish the Mallet (Final Shape + Oil)
Wrap-Up: A Shop Mallet You’ll Use All the Time
FAQs: How to Make a Wooden Mallet

*Safety is your responsibility. Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first!

Wooden Mallet Plans

Download the Wooden Mallet Plans here

Download plans here

Materials and Tools Used

Here’s everything I used for this wooden mallet build — the three wood types, glue, finish, and the main tools/jigs that made the process easier and more accurate.

Affiliate note: Some links in this post may be affiliate links — they don’t cost you anything extra, but they help support the builds and free guides on AllFlavor Workshop.

Wood

Beech
Walnut
Baltic birch plywood

Other Materials

Wood Glue — https://amzn.to/48ltKhJ
Wood Oil — https://amzn.to/48IyQ7p
Silicon Brush — https://amzn.to/3NPlgaq
Painters Tape — https://amzn.to/3vCRqzE
Woodworking Double Sided Tape — https://amzn.to/3tPMGpM
Sandpaper Sheets — https://amzn.to/41OMx2p
Sanding Discs — https://amzn.to/4aGaY6r

Tools

Table Saw — https://amzn.to/47mWiGf
Router — https://amzn.to/3HbQcOg
Drill Press — https://amzn.to/3NSA3Bo
Angle Grinder — https://amzn.to/48K2klD
Orbit Sander — https://amzn.to/48G9cjL
Belt Sander — https://amzn.to/4b4XeCd
Table Saw Blade — https://amzn.to/48maocv
Push Block — https://amzn.to/3vjQSP7
Router Flattening Bit — https://amzn.to/3TUJ2pc
Narex Chisels — https://amzn.to/3tHNJrT
F-Clamps — https://amzn.to/48ArzY1
One Hand Clamps — https://amzn.to/48jGxkZ
Spring Clamps — https://amzn.to/41Nuh9D
Machinist Square — https://amzn.to/48fT6xw
Speed Square — https://amzn.to/3RO67Hy
Drill Bit Set — https://amzn.to/4aI47t3
L-Angle — https://amzn.to/4aGaT2D

✅ Check all the tools I use here

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How to Make a Wooden Mallet — step-by-step laminated build with wedges.

Mallet Design Notes (Size, Wood Choice, and the Optional Decorative Parts)

Before we start cutting, it helps to decide whether you want to build the mallet as a simple hardwood version, or include the decorative plywood details. The plywood patterns look great, but they’re optional — the mallet is fully functional with just beech/walnut (or even one hardwood). The key is keeping the head size comfortable (16 cm long × 6 cm wide) and leaving a little extra material during glue-up so you can square everything up cleanly before shaping.

Let’s Start Building! (before the step-by-step)

I’ll go through the build in the same order I made it: glue up the laminated blank, shape the head and handle, add the angled head faces and optional decorative inlays, then sand and oil the mallet so the beech/walnut contrast really pops.

How to Make a Wooden Mallet

Step 1: Cut the Handle Pieces (Plywood Pattern + Walnut Core)

I started with the handle first. The outside layers are made from 9 mm Baltic birch plywood, cut into small blocks that create the patterned look once they’re arranged and glued up.

First, I ripped the plywood into 15 mm wide strips — that width later becomes the “thickness” of the pattern layer. Then I crosscut those strips into 40 mm long pieces. I cut a lot of them (around 100 pieces), so I had enough for both outer layers and some extras for mistakes.

For these small repeatable cuts, a table saw + crosscut sled is perfect — you get consistent parts quickly, and it’s much safer than trying to freehand tiny pieces.

After the plywood pieces were done, I cut the walnut core for the middle of the handle. I started from a blank around 330 × 50 × 10 mm and cut it to size on the table saw. If you can, pick a darker walnut — it gives a really nice contrast against the lighter plywood pattern layers.

Tip: Cut more plywood blocks than you think you need. It saves time later and lets you pick the nicest-looking pieces for the visible areas.

Note: Tiny pieces near a spinning blade can be dangerous — use a stop block and a sled, keep your hands far from the blade, and don’t rush this step.

Step 2: Glue the Handle Blank + Prep the Tenon End (Wedge Slots)

This step is where the handle really starts to take shape. I began by gluing the plywood pieces into a herringbone pattern, one by one, to create two patterned outer panels. Once those panels dried, I flattened them using my multi-function router jig (light passes) and gave them a quick sanding.

After that, I trimmed the panels to uniform size on the table saw, then glued the full handle blank together: plywood panel + walnut core + plywood panel. With clamps on, I let it cure, then squared the blank by trimming the ends and sides on the table saw. At this point, I had a clean rectangular handle block ready for shaping.

Next, I prepped one end for the head connection. I trimmed that end narrower using a crosscut sled — this becomes the tenon that will go into the mallet head. To prevent cracking later when the wedges go in, I drilled two relief (dilatation) holes on that same end using my drill press stand. Finally, I cut two wedge slots on the table saw using my tenon jig, cutting down from the top until I reached the drilled holes. Those slots are where the wedges will expand the handle inside the head.

Tip: Flattening and squaring the handle blank now saves a ton of time later. If the blank is straight and uniform, everything that follows (head fit + shaping) is much easier.

Note: The relief holes are important — they stop the wedge slots from splitting further down the handle when you drive the wedges in.

Step 3: Shape the Handle (Final Grip)

Now I give the handle its final shape. I start by drawing a few guide lines — nothing fancy, just enough to mark where I want the grip to feel slimmer and more comfortable in the hand.

To remove the bulk quickly, I use a grinder and knock off the main corners and excess material. (If you have a band saw, that’s honestly the better option here — faster, cleaner, and way less dust.) Once the rough shape is there, I clamp the handle in my Moxon vise and use sanding sheets to refine it into the final grip shape.

This part is very personal — the “best” handle shape is the one that feels right in your hand. Take your time and keep testing the grip until it feels comfortable. After that, the handle is done and we can move on to the mallet head.

Tip: Don’t aim for perfection immediately. Get the rough shape first, then sneak up on the final comfort with sanding — it’s much easier to control.

Step 4: Build the Mallet Head + Install the Handle (Glue + Wedges)

Now we move on to the mallet head — this is where the design really comes together. I start by cutting all the head parts to size on the table saw: two main beech blocks for the head body, plus all the side pieces that build up the “decorative sandwich” on the sides (beech strips, walnut inlays, and the patterned plywood strip).

The plywood patterned strip is made the exact same way as the handle pattern (cut small plywood blocks → glue into pattern → flatten/square). Once I had all the parts ready, I did a dry fit with the handle so I could see the layout and check that everything would line up cleanly.

Then I glued the side pieces into panels and sanded them flat. After that, I glued up the head in stages: I glued one side panel to the main beech head pieces first, using the handle as spacing so the opening stays correct. Once that cured, I cleaned up any glue squeeze-out inside the opening with a chisel, then glued on the second side panel and let everything dry.

After the main head block was solid, I cut the head sides at an angle using a table saw sled to give it that cleaner, finished shape.

Finally, I assembled the mallet: I applied glue to the handle tenon and inside the head opening, inserted the handle, and drove in the wedges to lock it in place. Then I let the whole mallet cure fully before final shaping and finishing.

Note: Always clean the inside glue squeeze-out before closing the second panel. If dried glue stays inside the opening, the handle fit can become tight or uneven.

Step 5: Sand and Finish the Mallet (Final Shape + Oil)

This is the step where the mallet goes from “assembled” to “finished.” First I sand the head down to its final shape, clean up the surfaces, and break all the sharp edges so it feels good in the hand and won’t chip easily. I use a mix of an orbital sander and a belt sander to get the shape right and make the faces smooth, then I work through a few grits until everything feels clean and even.

Once the sanding is done, I oil the mallet with Belinka oil. This is the moment where everything comes alive — the beech, walnut, and plywood patterns pop, the contrast gets stronger, and the mallet starts looking like a finished piece instead of just a block of wood.

And that’s it — the mallet is finished and ready for the shop.

Note: If the surface still feels oily after a coat, wipe off the excess and give it more time to dry before adding another coat.

Wrap-Up: A Shop Mallet You’ll Use All the Time

This mallet is definitely a bit more “tuned up” the way I built it — with the plywood patterns, walnut accents, and the angled head — but you can absolutely follow the same process and make a simpler version from one solid hardwood. Either way, you end up with one of the most useful tools you can have in the shop.

A wooden mallet is perfect for any operation where you need force but don’t want to damage your workpiece — tapping joints together, adjusting assemblies, seating parts, or nudging things into place without leaving metal marks. And it’s also a great “scrap wood” project. If you’ve been building jigs, shop furniture, or cutting boards, you probably already have enough offcuts to make a really nice mallet without buying much extra material.

It’s also one of those builds that’s especially helpful early on when you’re setting up your workshop. Once you have a mallet, you’ll start reaching for it constantly — and having one that feels good in the hand (and looks great) is a nice bonus.

If you want more builds like this (jigs, workshop tools, and downloadable plans), you can find everything in one place here: 👉 Woodworking Plans (All Projects)

FAQs: How to Make a Wooden Mallet

1) What wood is best for a wooden mallet?

Hardwoods are the best choice because they’re durable and hold up to repeated удар (impacts). Beech, maple, ash, oak, and walnut all work well. In my build I used beech and walnut for strength and contrast, and Baltic birch plywood only as a decorative pattern (not as the main striking material).

2) How do you make a wooden mallet strong?

A strong mallet comes down to three things: a solid head, a good handle fit, and a reliable joint. Laminating the head with wood glue creates a very strong blank, and a properly fitted handle that’s expanded with wedges locks the handle in place so it won’t loosen over time.

3) Do I need wedges for a wooden mallet handle?

If you’re fitting the handle through the head, wedges are a great idea. They expand the handle inside the head and make the connection much more secure. Relief holes and wedge slots also help prevent the handle from cracking when the wedges are driven in.

4) What size should a wooden mallet be?

There’s no single “correct” size — it depends on what you use it for. A general shop mallet like mine (about 32.5 cm overall length with a 16 cm head) is a comfortable everyday size. The main goal is a head that feels balanced and a handle that fits your grip.

5) What finish should I use on a wooden mallet?

A simple oil finish works great because it’s easy to apply and keeps the wood looking good. I used Belinka oil. You don’t need a thick film finish — just something that protects the wood and makes it easier to keep clean.

This post How to Make a Wooden Mallet (Step-by-Step DIY Guide) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

Essential Router Jigs for Cabinet Making (And How to Use Them)

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 18 Sep 2025 07:00:00 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

Essential Router Jigs for Cabinet Making (And How to Use Them)

Cabinet making is one of those woodworking areas where precision really matters — and routers are some of the best tools for getting clean, accurate cuts. Whether I’m adding shelves, routing dados, or fitting face frames, I always turn to a few reliable jigs to make things easier and more repeatable.

Over the years, I’ve built quite a few router jigs in my workshop — some simple, others more complex — but a handful have stuck with me. I use them all the time when building cabinets, drawers, or shelving units. Router jigs are a great way to get more precise results without taking up a lot of space — perfect for any workshop setup, especially if you’re working in a smaller garage like I do.

In this post, I’m walking through the router jigs I use the most for cabinet projects, what they’re good for, and how you can build them too. All of them were built with space and practicality in mind — I wanted tools that are easy to set up, give repeatable results, and don’t take up a ton of room.

📌 I’ll link to the downloadable plans throughout the post if you want to build your own versions — they include measurements, a list of materials and tools, a step-by-step video guide, and more.

Why Use Router Jigs for Cabinet Making?
Essential Router Jigs for Cabinet Making
1. Adjustable Router Dado Jig
2. Shelf Pin Jig
3. Router Mortising Jig
4. Router Circle Jig
5. Router Template Jig
6. Benchtop Router Table
7. Router Table Box Joint Jig
8. Router Table Spline Jig
Comparison Table: Router Jigs for Cabinet Making
Final Thoughts
FAQ: Router Jigs for Cabinet Making

Why Use Router Jigs for Cabinet Making?

When you’re building cabinets — whether it’s full kitchen units, shop storage, or utility drawers — accuracy matters. You need clean dados, perfectly aligned shelf pins, tight-fitting mortises, and straight cuts. A router alone can do a lot, but when paired with the right jigs, it becomes a whole different tool.

Router jigs let you:

Speed up repetitive cuts – Like shelf pins or dados for side panels.
Keep things aligned – Essential when you’re joining multiple parts together.
Avoid measuring errors – The jig sets the path; you just follow it.
Work cleaner and safer – Especially when routing small parts or delicate edges.

Most of the cabinet jigs I use are easy to build and work with both a plunge router and a compact handheld router. No matter the material, the right jig helps keep things accurate and consistent every time.

That said, not all router jigs are created equal. Below are the ones I rely on the most when building cabinets — from dadoes and rabbets to shelf pin holes and perfect mortises.

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Essential Router Jigs for Cabinet Making

1. Adjustable Router Dado Jig

For precise dadoes and rabbets every time

This is one of my go-to router jigs when building cabinets. Dados and rabbets are the backbone of strong cabinet construction — they help align pieces, add strength, and create a clean look. And this jig makes cutting them quick, accurate, and repeatable.

What sets this jig apart is its adjustability. You can dial it in to match the exact width of your material, lock it in place, and cut a snug-fitting dado in a single pass. No messing around with multiple test cuts or fine-tuning router fences. It’s especially useful when working with plywood, which often varies slightly in thickness.

🛠 My Setup:
I built this jig to work with a 6mm straight router bit and a plunge router. The base is made from thin MDF to maximize plunge depth. The guide rails are aluminum, and the adjustable mechanism is locked in place with wooden knobs. It’s compact, quick to set up, and gives great results every time.

📌 You can check out the full build and plans here: Router Dado Jig

2. Shelf Pin Jig

For evenly spaced adjustable shelves

When building cabinets or bookcases, shelf pins let you add adjustable shelves without complicating the design. But getting those holes evenly spaced and perfectly aligned on both sides of the panel? That’s where a shelf pin jig makes all the difference.

This jig helps you drill clean, consistent holes for shelf pins using a plunge router and a guide bushing. It ensures that every shelf sits level and you can repeat the same layout across multiple panels. Great for kitchen cabinets, closet storage, or shop furniture.

🛠 My Setup:
My shelf pin jig is made from MDF/ Plywood with evenly spaced holes that guide a 6mm router bit using a bushing. I use it with my plunge router, clamped to the cabinet side panels. You can scale the jig to fit your most common cabinet sizes or add stop blocks for consistent hole spacing.

Note: I don’t currently have plans for this jig — but if there’s interest, I might make some soon.

3. Router Mortising Jig

For strong, clean mortise joints in frames and panels

When it comes to cabinet doors, face frames, or structural panels, mortise-and-tenon joinery is one of the strongest options you can use — and this jig helps you get perfect mortises every time. It holds the workpiece both vertically and horizontally and allows you to plunge straight down into the exact position you need.

The jig is adjustable for different workpiece sizes and mortise lengths, so it works for everything from small drawer fronts to full cabinet frames. Once set, you can repeat the cut across multiple parts quickly and accurately.

🛠 My Setup:
This jig mounts to my workbench and holds the workpiece securely against an adjustable fence. The plunge router rides on a top-mounted platform between two guide rails and can move left to right. Two wooden knobs on the back adjust the front-to-back travel of the router table, and side stops set the mortise length. I used Baltic birch plywood, MDF, and HDF in the build, with wooden knobs and wing nuts for adjustments.

📌 You can check out the full build and plans here: Router Mortising Jig

4. Router Circle Jig

For cutting perfect circles, round tabletops, and arcs

Whether you’re making lazy Susans, speaker cutouts, or round cabinet tops, a circle jig makes the job smooth and accurate. It lets you cut clean, consistent circles with a handheld router and a simple pivot arm.

This jig is quite simple, but very effective. You fix the center point, set the radius, and guide the router around in a perfect arc. I’ve used mine to cut circles as small as 3 cm and as large as 80 cm — just depends on the length of the arm.

🛠 My Setup:
I built this for a handheld router (my DeWalt D26200). The arm is mounted to a 6mm plywood base, which allows full plunge depth of the bit. You can modify the jig for other router brands by drilling the appropriate mounting holes. It’s easy to scale up or down depending on your needs.

📌 You can check out the full build and plans here: Router Circle Jig

5. Router Template Jig

For inlays, hardware recesses, and precise cutouts

If you need repeatable shapes, tight-fitting inlays, or clean hardware cutouts — this is the jig for the job. I use it for routing everything from handle recesses and hinge cutouts to decorative inlay patterns. It saves tons of setup time and gives a pro-level finish.

What makes it effective is its adjustability. The jig has four sliding arms that create a custom-sized template opening. You can use all four arms for rectangles or just two or three to shape trapezoids or angled recesses.

🛠 My Setup:
This version is built for a 6mm straight bit and a handheld router. The base is thin MDF for better plunge depth, and the adjustable arms are made from plywood with integrated T-tracks. Once the shape is dialed in, I lock the arms with wing nuts and clamp the jig to the workpiece. The router follows the inside of the template for a clean, repeatable result every time.

🔗 Step-by-step guide and Plans available if you want to build one: Router Template Jig

6. Benchtop Router Table

Why it’s perfect for precise and repeatable cabinet joinery

A router table is one of those tools that just makes joinery easier. It gives you solid support, better control over your cuts, and it’s great for getting repeatable results — especially when you’re working on joints that need to line up perfectly every time.

In my workshop, I built a compact portable router table that serves as a base for multiple jig add-ons. That modular setup lets me switch between a box joint jig, spline jig, and tenon jig (and more) depending on the project — without building a new jig from scratch every time.

🔗 Step-by-step guide and Plans available if you want to build one: Benchtop Router Table

Next up are two of my favorite router table jigs for cabinet joinery — the Box Joint Jig and the Spline Jig. Let’s start with the box joints.

📌 Want to learn how modular jig systems work? Check out How to Build Modular Woodworking Jigs for Versatility to see how a single base can serve multiple purposes.

7. Router Table Box Joint Jig

Perfect for making strong, repeatable joints in drawers and cabinet boxes

This jig is my go-to for making clean, tight box joints. I mainly use it when building drawers or open cabinet boxes — anywhere I need a strong mechanical joint that also looks good. It’s one of those jigs that, once it’s dialed in, saves a lot of time and gives consistent results.

The jig is designed to fit my router table setup. It locks into position on the table and holds the workpiece vertically. The cutting position is guided by a pin that matches the width of the bit, so the spacing stays accurate the whole way through. I’m using a 6mm bit for this one, but you can easily modify it for other sizes.

What I like most is that it’s reliable. You clamp the piece, run the cut, shift over, and repeat. And because it’s mounted to the table, everything stays square and stable.

📌 You can check out the full build and the plans here: Router Table Box Joint Jig

8. Router Table Spline Jig

Adds strength and a clean look to miters in cabinet frames and boxes

I use this jig mostly when I’m reinforcing mitered corners — for example, in cabinet frames, decorative boxes, or even angled drawer fronts. A spline not only makes the joint stronger, it also adds a nice visual detail that can stand out if you use contrasting wood.

The jig is built to slide over my router table and lock around the tabletop. It holds the workpiece at a 45° angle, letting the router bit cut clean spline slots right through the joint. The key here is keeping everything aligned — and this jig makes that easy.

Like the box joint jig, it’s designed for a 6mm bit and built to match the dimensions of my router table. You can tweak it for your setup with different fences or bit sizes.

📌 Full build and plans here: Router Table Spline Jig

Comparison Table: Router Jigs for Cabinet Making

Router jigs can do a lot of the heavy lifting in cabinet making — from joinery to shaping to shelf construction. Below is a quick comparison to help you pick the right one for your build. Most of these jigs have plans available for download if you want to build them yourself.

Jig	Best For	Router Type	Adjustable
Adjustable Dado Jig	Cutting dados and rabbets	Plunge router	✅ Yes
Shelf Pin Jig	Drilling evenly spaced shelf holes	Handheld or plunge router	✅ Yes
Adjustable Template Guide	Cutouts, inlays, corners	Handheld router	✅ Yes
Router Mortising Jig	Horizontal and vertical mortises	Plunge router	✅ Yes
Router Circle Jig	Round cabinet panels, bases	Handheld router	✅ Yes
Router Table	General joinery and shaping	Table-mounted router with fence	⚠️ Base and fence
Box Joint Jig (for router table)	Finger joints in cabinets/boxes	Router table addon	✅ Yes
Spline Jig (for router table)	Strengthening miter joints	Router table addon	✅ Yes

Final Thoughts

A good set of router jigs can seriously level up your cabinet making. I use these jigs all the time — not just because they save time, but because they make the process more accurate and repeatable. That’s important whether you’re building a one-off cabinet or a full kitchen setup.

Routers are incredibly versatile, and with the right jigs, you can get pro-level results in a small workshop. You don’t need a big shop to get precise, repeatable cuts — just the right tools and a bit of setup. Modular jig setups let you do more with less space, which is exactly what I go for in my builds.

If you want to build any of these jigs, plans are available with step-by-step instructions, cutting lists, and both metric and imperial measurements.
🔗 Download woodworking jig plans

FAQ: Cabinet Jigs

What router do I need for cabinet making?

You can get great results with either a plunge router or a compact handheld router. For jigs like the mortising jig or dado jig, I use the DeWalt D26200. If you’re working with a router table, make sure your router can be mounted securely to a plate or base.

Can I build these jigs with basic tools?

Yes — most of these jigs can be built using a table saw, drill, and a router. Some jigs benefit from a bit more precision, but if you take your time and follow the plans, you’ll get there even without a full workshop.

Are these router jigs beginner-friendly?

Definitely. A few of them, like the dado jig and circle jig, are perfect starter projects. They’re simple to build and give you a big return in functionality. Others, like the mortising jig or box joint jig, require more setup but are very doable with guidance.

What materials do you recommend for building these jigs?

I mostly use Baltic birch plywood, MDF, and HDF. They’re flat, stable, and easy to work with. You want your jigs to be accurate and consistent — materials like construction-grade plywood or softwood boards often warp and throw things off.

Do I need all of these jigs for cabinet making?

Not at all. Start with one or two based on what you’re building. For example, if you’re adding adjustable shelves, go for the shelf pin jig. Building drawers? You’ll love the box joint jig. Once you see what you use the most, you can always add more later.

This post Essential Router Jigs for Cabinet Making (And How to Use Them) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

How to Make a Router Table Spline Jig (Step-by-Step)

About the author, Lukas — Tue, 27 Dec 2022 11:32:30 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

How to Make a Router Table Spline Jig (Step-by-Step)

When making a wooden box or a picture frame, reinforcing the mitered corners with splines is a great way how to strengthen the joint and ensure a tight bond. Not only the miter joint provides a firm connection but also makes the joint stand out aesthetically.

There are a few ways how to cut a spline joint. You can use hand tools such as a hand saw and a chisel, or you can make a spline joint on a table saw in combination with a table saw spline jig or on a router table using a router table spline jig.

In this article we will be making a spline joint jig for a benchtop router table I built some time ago.

One of the main advantages of a spline joint jig is the simplicity and repeatability with which you will be able to cut and make spline joints.

The spline joint jig is an add-on to the benchtop router table. The jig is mounted on top of the router table and slides around it with the help of wooden guide rails. Although router tables can vary in type and size, by following this build process you will be able to create a spline jig for almost any router table.

The build is made of MDF and Baltic birch plywood. All the materials are easily available.

Read on to find out how to build a spline joint jig for a router table, how to set it up, and how to make a spline miter joint.

RELATED:

DIY Router Table Spline Jig Video

If you want to see how it is done, watch the video below for a step-by-step guide on how to make a spline jig for a router table.

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Router Table Spline Jig Plans
The Material you will need
General Questions
1. What is a spline in woodworking?
2. What are the different ways of cutting a miter spline?
3. What router bit for cutting spline grooves?
How to Make a Router Table Spline Jig
1. Step 1: Build the Sliding Base
2. Step 2: Make the Back Part of the Spline Jig
3. Step 3: Make the Front Part of the Spline Jig
4. Step 4: Glue Both Parts to the Sliding Base
5. Step 5: Cut a Kerf in the Base
6. Step 6: Build the Stoppers
How to Set up and Use a Spline Jig for a Router Table
Woodworking Jigs used for the project

*Safety is your responsibility. Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first!

Router Table Spline Jig Plans

Download the Router Table Spline Jig Plans here

Download plans here

What you'll need to make a Router Table Spline Jig

Router Spline Jig Base
MDF baseboard – 470 mm x 160 mm x 5 mm
Spruce wood strips – 2x (220 mm x 28 mm x 18 mm)
Beechwood Strip – 260 mm x 7 mm x 6 mm

Spline Jig
MDF – 2x (300 mm x 120 mm x 8 mm)
Plywood – 250 mm x 35 mm x 6 mm
Plywood triangles – 2x (60 mm x 60 mm x 12 mm)
Plywood triangles – 2x (35 mm x 35 mm x 12 mm)
DIY T-track bolts

Spline Jig Stoppers
Plywood – 4x (40 mm x 100 mm x 12 mm) – https://amzn.to/3TPULp2
Plywood – 2x (28 mm x 40 mm x 12 mm)

Tools:
Trim Router – https://amzn.to/3HbQcOg
Table Saw / Proxxon Mini table – https://amzn.to/47mWiGf
Ryoba Japanese Saw – https://amzn.to/48if4Qz
Cordless Hand Drill – https://amzn.to/3HqLEnH
Corded Hand Drill / Drill Press – https://amzn.to/3NSA3Bo
Machinist Square / Speed Square
One Hand Clamps – https://amzn.to/48jGxkZ
Spring Clamps – https://amzn.to/41Nuh9D
F-Clamps – https://amzn.to/48ArzY1

Other:
Wood Glue – https://amzn.to/48ltKhJ
Forstner bits – https://amzn.to/3Hd1aDb
Drill Bits – https://amzn.to/48Kaaf7
Straight router bit – https://amzn.to/47prNQi
Spiral bit – https://amzn.to/48pJJv9
M6 Bolts, Washers, Wing nuts, Wood Screws – https://amzn.to/41PodgQ

Check all the Tools I Use

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What is a spline in woodworking?

A spline in woodworking represents a strip of wood inserted in and glued into a matching slot or groove, typically between/along the edges of two boards. The main purpose of a spline in woodworking is to strengthen and reinforce an end-grain joint.

What are the different ways of cutting a miter spline?

There are a few ways how to cut miter splines and spline joints. Traditionally, the spline joint can be cut by using hand tools such as a hand saw (preferably a Japanese saw) and a wood chisel. Using electric tools, it is also possible to cut the joint using a table saw or a trim router in combination with the right saw blade and router bit. The equipment of the tools with woodworking jigs will allow for repeatability, and thus enable faster cutting of joints with the same quality.

What router bit for cutting spline grooves?

When cutting spline grooves on a router table, the best router bits for cutting slots and grooves are a double straight router bit and a double edge spiral bit. They provide excellent results, the cuts are clean and precise and they leave a smooth finish.

The main difference between a straight router bit and a spiral router bit is in the quality of the resulting cut and the price. They both provide great results, although a spiral bit leaves a smoother finish, cleaner cuts, and reduces tear-out. On the other hand, better quality comes at the expense of the price.

For woodworking beginners, straight router bits in combination with painters’ tape is a good option.

Read the following article for more information regarding straight and spiral router bits:

How to Make a Universal Router Circle Cutting Jig

Let's start building!

The router spline jig consists of 2 main parts – the sliding base, and the spline jig itself.

The sliding base is made of MDF and spruce wood strips, and the spline jig is from MDF and Baltic birch plywood. The overall dimensions of the spline jig are 47cm x 22cm x 11m.

Router Spline Jig properties:

Material: MDF, Plywood, Spruce wood
Total dimensions: 47cm x 22cm x 11m.
Spline Jig with a T-track for additional accessories

NOTE: The spline jig built in this article is designed for a clamp-on benchtop router table and uses 6mm router bits. Similarly, the jig can also be made for other types of router tables.

This is a project for a beginner/advanced woodworker. Many areas require increased attention to ensure accurate and clean cuts.

How to Make a Router Table Spline Jig

Step 1: Build the Sliding Base

Before you start building the spline jig measure the dimensions of your router table first. Mine is 40x30cm.

Cut the MDF board slightly longer than the length of the router table leaving a few centimeter-overhang on each side (47cm x 16cm x 0,5cm). To make the main crosscut I am using a mini table saw crosscut sled.

Then, make two cutouts on each side of the board (7,5cm x 4cm). They allow the board to get more forward.

Cut two spruce wood strips to size (22cm x 2,8cm x 1,8cm) and glue them to the board. Make sure the strips fit snugly against the router table so the entire spline jig board can easily slide over it.

Use the router table as a reference. Turn it upside down, align the edges with the board, and clamp it to the workbench. Apply glue on the spruce strips and glue them to the MDF board. Wait until the glue dries and secure the strips with screws.

Cut a 2cm hole in the center of the board with a Forstner bit. The hole needs to be aligned with the router bit.

NOTE: When you mount the spline jig on the router table it should slide easily, yet there shouldn’t be any wobble. If you have tight grip sand the inside of the spruce strips a bit. If the spline jig wobbles add painter’s tape to the strips.

Step 2: Make the Back Part of the Spline Jig

Cut an MDF board to size (30cm x 12cm x 0,8cm) and cut one of the longer sides at a 45-degree angle. To make all the cuts I am using a mini table saw crosscut sled.

Draw the design on the board and use a router dado jig to cut a t-track slot. Make sure the slot is cut on the correct side of the board.

Cut a plywood strip (25cm x 3,5cm x 0,6cm), cut a shallow rabbet on one side, cut out the center part and glue the strip to the MDF board. Additionally, you can fix it with screws.

NOTE: The strip serves as a barrier against the t-track bolt falling out. The center cutout makes it easy to put on and take out the bolts when needed.

Cut 4 isosceles right triangles (2x 6cm x 6cm; 2x 3,5cm x 3,5cm) and glue them to the MDF board right above the miter cut. Make sure the supporting triangles line up flush with the bottom of the miter cut.

NOTE: Do not glue the supporting triangles in the router cut path.

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Step 3: Make the Front Part of the Spline Jig

Follow the same steps as above and create the front part of the spline jig. (The front part does not have a t-track)

Step 4: Glue Both Parts to the Sliding Base

Apply glue on the bottom of the front and back parts and glue the pieces over the cut hole on the sliding base. To make sure the pieces are perpendicular to the router bit you can either draw a line on the sliding base or you can use a square.

Step 5: Cut a Kerf in the Base

Mount the Spline Jig on the router table and cut a kerf in using a router bit (I am using a 6mm router bit). Optionally, for better visibility when cutting, you can mark each side of the kerf to know where the cut would be.

Step 6: Build the Stoppers

Cut all the pieces for the plywood stoppers and glue them together. Drill a 6mm hole for attachment and mount the stoppers on the spline jig with t-track bolts and wing nuts.

NOTE: The stoppers are adjustable and will make sure that all the cuts will be made in the same place.

Below is a picture of a finished router spline jig. A spline joint is a great corner joint. It is strong, looks beautiful and is easy to make with this spline jig.

How to Set up and Use a Spline Jig for a Router Table

The steps provided below describe how to set up a spline jig for a router table and how to use it. Use all the necessary protective equipment. Especially safety glasses. Chips are flying away at high speeds, which can cause serious injury.

For a better understanding of how to set up and use the jig, refer to the included video.

How to use a spline jig for a router table

Mount the spline jig on the router table
Apply painters’ tape on the workpiece to prevent blowout
Place the workpiece in the spline jig and position it where you want to make the cut
Set the stoppers and tighten the wing nuts
Secure the workpiece with a hold-down clamp
Use the right router bit for the job
Slowly make the cut
Repeat the process and make all the other cuts

TIP: Use painter’s tape in order to achieve the best result when cutting splines on a router table. Place the tape on the edge of the workpiece right where want to make the cut. The tape will help to prevent blowout at the other side of the corner and will help to keep the cuts clean.

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Miter Spline Jig

Jigs used for this project:

This post How to Make a Router Table Spline Jig (Step-by-Step) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

How To Make a Tenon Jig for a Router Table

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 01 Dec 2022 07:37:15 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

How To Make a Tenon Jig for a Router Table

The mortise and tenon joint is one of the strongest and most used joints in woodworking. The joint provides a robust and tight connection that may last for hundreds of years. Its uses are wide-ranging from making tables and chairs to doors, frames, and cabinets.

There are multiple ways how to make a tenon. You can cut it on a table saw using a crosscut sled or a dedicated tenoning jig, you can make it the traditional way using a chisel and a saw, or you can use a router together with a tenon jig. In this article, you will learn how to make a tenon jig for a router table.

The tenoning jig built in this article is designed for a benchtop router table. It is mainly intended for crosscutting and making tenons on narrow wood pieces. The narrower the wood piece, the harder it is to keep the stock perpendicular to the router table fence. The tenoning jig holds the stock firmly at a 90-degree angle to the fence and the router bit ensuring the cuts are clean, square, and precise.

The jig works as a tenon sled for a router table. It can slide in a miter slot or can be used against the side of the table as a reference. To achieve the best results, it is good to use a sacrificial block to prevent wood tearing and blowout.

The build is made of Baltic birch plywood and HDF. All the materials are easily available.

Read on to find out how to make a tenon sled for a router table, how to set it up, and how to use it.

RELATED:

DIY Router Table Tenon Jig Video

If you want to build a router tenon sled, watch the video below with a step-by-step guide and detailed steps.

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Router Tenon Jig Video
Router Table Tenon Jig Plans
The Material you will need
Frequently Asked Questions
1. What is the mortise and what is the tenon?
2. What are the different ways of creating a mortise and tenon?
3. How do you make a tenon with a router?
How to Make a Tenon Jig for a Router Table
1. Step 1: Make the Sled
2. Step 2: Make the Back Fence
3. Step 3: Make the Front Fence
4. Step 4: Make a Hold-Down Clamp
How to Use a Tenoning Jig for a Router Table
Woodworking Jigs used for the project

*Safety is your responsibility. Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first!

Router Table Tenon Jig Plans

Download the Router Table Tenon Jig Plans here

Download plans here

What you'll need to make a Router Table Tenon Sled

Router Tenon Jig Base
HDF base board – 290 mm x 170 mm x 5 mm
Spruce wood Strip – 260 mm x 18 mm x 28 mm
Beechwood Strip – 260 mm x 7 mm x 6 mm

Tenon Jig Back Fence
Plywood – 45 mm x 170 mm x 12 mm – – https://amzn.to/3TPULp2
HDF Strips – 8 mm x 170 mm x 4 mm
DIY T-track bolts
DIY T-tracks
DIY Hold-down Clamp

Tenon Jig Front Fence
Aluminum flat bar- 70 mm x 30 mm x 2 mm
DIY T-track bolt

Tools:
Circular Saw – https://amzn.to/4aMD0xg
Trim Router – https://amzn.to/3HbQcOg
Hand Drill – https://amzn.to/3HqLEnH
Corded Hand Drill – https://amzn.to/3NSA3Bo
Proxxon Mini Table Saw
Angle Grinder – https://amzn.to/48K2klD
One Hand Clamps – https://amzn.to/48jGxkZ
Spring Clamps – https://amzn.to/41Nuh9D
F-Clamps – https://amzn.to/48ArzY1
Machinist Square / Speed Square

Other:
Wood Glue – https://amzn.to/48ltKhJ
Epoxy – https://amzn.to/3tJ5R4L
Straight router bit – https://amzn.to/3NQNDVX
Wood Screws, Washers, Bolts, T-nuts – https://amzn.to/41PodgQ
Threaded rod 6mm – https://amzn.to/48oo6vq

Check all the Tools I Use

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What is the mortise and what is the tenon?

A mortise is an entrance, the hole of the joint. The tenon is the protrusion that fits into the mortise creating the joint.

What are the different ways of creating a mortise and tenon?

There are multiple ways how to create the mortise and tenon joint. Traditionally, the mortise and tenon joint is made by using hand tools such as a marking gauge, a wood chisel, a hand saw, and a mallet.

With the advent of modern electric tools, you can also make the joint using a table saw, a trim router, or a band saw. You can equip the tools with woodworking jigs that allow for repeatable cuts, thus allowing you to make the joints faster with the same quality.

How do you make a tenon with a router?

There are two main approaches to making a tenon with a router. You can either use the router as a stationary tool, such as a router table, and move the workpiece against the router, or use the router as a moving component and fix the workpiece.

Both approaches will use different types of woodworking jigs. In the first case, when the router is fixed, you can cut a tenon using a router tenon sled. In the second case, you can cut a tenon using a stationary mortise and tenoning jig.

Let's start building!

The router tenon sled consists of 3 main parts – the sled, the back fence with securing elements, and the front fence. The sled is made of HDF, the back fence of plywood, and the front fence of spruce wood.

Router Tenon Sled properties:

Material: HDF, Plywood, Spruce wood
Total dimensions: 29m x 17cm x 8,5cm
Back fence with T-tracks for additional accessories
Maximum adjustment distance of clamping width: 14cm
Can be used to cut short pieces as well as long pieces

NOTE: The base sled is made of a narrower HDF board (29m x 17cm x 0,5cm) with a custom t-track so that the maximum bit length can be used. Nevertheless, you can also make the base from a 9mm or 12mm plywood board with a standard t-track miter track.

This is a project for a beginner/advanced woodworker. Many areas require precision and increased attention to ensure an accurate and clean cut.

How to Make a Tenon Jig for a Router Table

Step 1: Make the Sled

Measure and cut the HDF base board to size (29m x 17,5cm x 0,5cm). To cut the board I used a circular saw straight edge guide. But if you have a table saw you can use a crosscut sled instead.

1. Cut the t-track

Cut a t-track in the base board. Use an adjustable router dado jig to cut an exact-width dado. Make sure the aluminum bar is flush with the base board.

NOTE: I am using a 5mm thick HDF board. That is because I want to use the maximum length of the router bit. Although this makes the build a bit more complicated. Using a thicker board would make it easier to create the t-track.

2. Attach the guiding fence

Cut 2 wooden strips and glue them to the bottom of the base. One (spruce), that runs along the edge of the router table, and the other (beech) that runs in the router table slot. Use flush head screws, if you are going to additionally secure the side guide.

Measure and attach the guides so that it extends slightly over the router bit. Once the glue dries cut off the wood excess.

NOTE: You can use any type of wood. I used the leftovers I found in the shop.

Step 2: Make the Back Fence

Glue 4 plywood strips together and make a t-track. You can easily route the slots on the router table. Make sure the front side is straight and perpendicular to the base.

Glue the back fence to the base board. Use a square to make sure it is perpendicular to the cut edge (perpendicular to the router bit).

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Step 3: Make the Front Fence

Cut the aluminum bar to size and round the edges for a better slide in the track. Make a t-track bolt and glue it to the aluminum bar with epoxy to ensure a firm connection (wood glue is not sufficient).

NOTE: Make sure the height of the bar and the bolt is lower than the height of the base board.

Cut the fence to size a drill a hole in for the t-track bolt. Mount it on the base and secure it with a wing nut.

Step 4: Make a Hold-Down Clamp

Cut a plywood piece to size, add a t-nut for attachment, a cut a slot for adjustability.

Mount the piece on the back fence using a t-track bolt and a wing nut. Run through the t-nut a threaded rod with a permanently attached wing nut at the (top) end and attach another piece of wood on the other side of the rod for pushing. You can add a non-slip mate to the bottom of the piece for better fix and security.

The push mechanism is the same as in the case of this wooden vise or this angle clamp.

Below is a picture of a finished router table tenon sled. A great jig for cutting tenons on large as well as small workpieces.

How to Use a Tenoning Jig for a Router Table

The steps provided below describe how to set up a tenon jig for a router table and how to use it. Make sure you are using all the necessary protective equipment. Especially safety glasses and a face mask. When using a router table, chips may fly away at high speeds, which can cause serious injury.

For a better understanding of how to set up and use the jig, refer to the video above.

How to use a tenon jig for a router table

Mount the tenon sled on the router table
Place the workpiece on the sled and push it against the back fence
Set the stopper to the desired position
Secure the workpiece with a hold-down clamp
Secure the workpiece with the front fence
Use the right router bit for the job
Slowly make the cut

TIP: To achieve the best result when cutting use a sacrificial piece of wood. Place it between the workpiece and the back fence. The sacrificial block will help to prevent a blowout at the back of the workpiece.

Router Table Tenon Sled Improvements

An oscillating tool such as a trim router can cause serious injury, so all safety precautions must be observed. In particular, it is necessary to protect the eyes, or possibly the entire face. Wood chips flying away from the router reach high speeds and can fly up to a distance of several meters.

You can add dust-proof plexiglass on the side of the jig right above the router bit to prevent wood chips from flying in your face. Also, you can add additional hold-down clamps to securely fix the cut piece in position.

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I hope the information shared in this blog post inspired you and now you are adding this router jig to your next builds. 😉

Homemade Tenon Jig for Router Table

Jigs used for this project:

This post How To Make a Tenon Jig for a Router Table first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

How to Cut a Castle Joint on a Table Saw (With Pictures)

About the author, Lukas — Fri, 21 Oct 2022 14:12:03 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

How to Cut a Castle Joint on a Table Saw (With Pictures)

A castle joint (also known as a Shiro Joint or a 3-way joint) is one of the strongest wood joints used when building furniture, beds, or tables. The way the wood pieces are assembled not only provides a strong bond but also makes the joint stand out aesthetically.

In a traditional way, you make a castle joint by using a saw (preferably a Japanese saw) and a chisel. However, you can also cut a castle joint on a table saw using a tenoning jig and a crosscut sled (or a miter gauge).

If you are planning to make a table or a bed frame and several castle joints are needed, the easiest and most accurate way to do it is by using a table saw tenoning jig with a table saw sled. Once the tenoning jig and the sled are set, you can precisely and repeatedly cut the individual parts of the castle joint.

Setting up the jigs to find the right position and cut the tenons might take some time in the beginning. But once you have it, cutting them is quite simple. I used this method the build an outdoor coffee table and it took me no more than 1 hour to cut all the tenons and make the joints.

In this article, I will walk you through step-by-step how to cut a castle joint with a table saw using a tenon jig and a crosscut sled. Here you will find all the information about what type of table saw blade is best for the job, how to make a tenoning jig to cut the castle and the tenons, or how to use a table saw sled/miter gauge to cut the shoulders of the tenons and to cut the cross-lap joints.

If you don’t have a table saw sled in the shop you can easily use a miter gaugue with a stopper to make all the cuts.

RELATED:

How to Make a Castle Joint With a Table Saw Video

I made an outdoor coffee table using this method. Take a look for a step-by-step guide on how to cut a castle joint on a table saw.

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General Questions
1. Is it safe to cut a castle joint on a table saw?
2. Is it possible to cut a perfect castle joint on a table saw?
3. What are the drawbacks of cutting a castle joint on a table saw?
How to Cut a Castle Joint on a Table Saw
1. Step 1: Cut the Castle
2. Step 2: Cut the Tenons in the Horizontal Parts
3. Step 3: Cut the Cross-Lap Joints in the Tenons
4. Step 4: Assemble the Castle Joint
Key Takeaways When Making a Castle Joint on a Table Saw
Woodworking Jigs used for the project

*Safety is your responsibility. Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first! Always be cautious and careful when using any power tool.

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Is it safe to cut a castle joint on a table saw?

Cutting a castle joint on a table saw is safe. However, it is necessary to observe all safety precautions and to use the right tools for the job, namely a tenoning jig and a miter gauge (or a crosscut sled).

Always follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for operating the saw. Keep your hands as far away from the blade as possible and use protective equipment such as glasses and hearing protectors.

Is it possible to cut a perfect castle joint on a table saw?

Yes, you can cut a perfect castle joint on a table saw by using a table saw tenoning jig and a miter gauge. After setting up the tenoning jig and the miter gauge, you can cleanly and repeatedly cut the individual parts of the castle joint.

The tenoning jig is used to cut the castle and the tenons. The miter gauge is used to cut the shoulders of the tenons and to cut the cross-lap joints.

What are the drawbacks of cutting a castle joint on a table saw?

While cutting a castle joint on a table saw can be quick and provide great results, there are certain limitations to this method. Here are some situations where using the traditional saw and chisel method is better for making a castle joint.

Size considerations – for larger castle joints, a saw and chisel may be more practical. Handling big pieces of wood on a table saw can be challenging or even unfeasible.
Precision concerns – to achieve a highly precise, accurate, and clean joint, the handcrafted touch of a saw and chisel often proves superior.
Safety aspects – using a table saw for intricate cuts can increase the risk of injury if not handled with utmost care and attention.

Let's start building!

A castle joint is typically made out of 3 equal size pieces (same width, same thickness of the posts). However, it can also be made of wood pieces of different sizes – but the principle is the same.

If you have 3 equal size pieces you can set the table saw and the jigs once and then make all the cuts. If the size of the pieces differs for some of the dimensions you will need to set up the jigs again.

NOTE: When creating a castle joint on a table saw, it’s crucial to set up the jigs correctly. Take a little extra time to perfect the first cuts. Once that’s done, you can easily repeat all the following cuts on autopilot.

What table saw blade to cut a castle joint?

To achieve a clean final cut for a castle joint, you can use a flat-top grind saw blade. However, it’s not an absolute necessity. Even if you’re using a standard table saw blade, you can still get a neat finish by carefully cleaning up the cuts with a chisel.

It’s essential to have a sharp and high-quality blade to ensure precision. From my experience, blades from brands like CMT and Diablo have consistently given me excellent results and I highly recommend them for any table saw work.

TIP: This article will walk you through all the steps to make a castle joint. Some parts might not be as detailed though. For full information also take a look at the following article – Castle Joint Step by Step.

How to Cut a Castle Joint on a Table Saw

Step 1: Cut the Castle

Draw the castle on the wood piece. Make sure the piece is square and straight (both on the ends and the edges).

Divide the vertical lines by 3
The horizontal line equals the width of the other horizontal wood pieces

TIP: The best way to mark the lines is by using a marking gauge and a combination square. Keep the settings on the tools, you will need them in next steps.

1. Cut the Bridle Joint

Use a tenoning jig and a flat top grind saw blade to cut the bridle joint. Raise the blade to the horizontal line and move the tenoning jig so the blade touches the inner mark. Lock the fence, when the setting is good.

TIP: Use painter’s tape on the cuts to prevent wood tear-out. Start the cut a bit further from the line. You can always sneak up on the cut until you get it perfect.

Make the cut. Rotate the piece 3 times and repeat the cut on the other 3 sides.

Use the tenoning jig to cut the bulk of the material in the inner parts of the joint. Using a flat top grind blade will result in clean cuts.

NOTE: You might also consider getting rid of the material from the inner part in another way. Cleaning the material on a table saw is messy. Using a hand drill and a coping saw first to get rid of the main parts and then cleaning the rest on a table saw may seem like a more suitable way.

Step 2: Cut the Tenons in the Horizontal Parts

Reuse the same settings from the marking gauge to draw the cut lines on the tenons.

Divide the vertical lines by 3
The horizontal line equals the width of the castle post (Step1)

First, use a tenoning jig to make the main vertical cuts. Make a cut from one side, then rotate 180 degrees and make another cut. Switch to a miter gauge or a crosscut fence. Set the stopper on the table fence and cut off the shoulders of the tenons.

Try the fit and repeat the process until the joint is perfect.

TIP: Start your cuts further from the marks (both for the tenoning jig and the miter gauge). You can always sneak up on the cuts.

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Step 3: Cut the Cross-Lap Joints in the Tenons

Mark the cross laps on the tenons. Set the stoppers (either on the table fence or the crosscut sled), set the height of the saw blade, and make the cuts.

Try the fit. Repeat the process until the joint is perfect.

NOTE: If you are using the table saw fence as a stopper it is important to add an “additional” stopper to the fence and not cut directly against the table saw fence (see picture). The workpiece could get caught between the blade and the fence which could result in table saw binding.

Step 4: Assemble the Castle Joint

Assemble all the pieces of the castle joint. To get rid of the imperfections in the joint, you can make a paste from sawdust and apply it to the joint cracks. Then, sand the joint with a sander and you will end up with a beautiful joint with no imperfections.

The picture below shows a finished castle joint made on a table saw. Although the joint looks quite complex, it is a relatively simple joint to create.

Key Takeaways When Making a Castle Joint on a Table Saw

Use a tenoning jig to cut the castle and the tenons in the horizontal parts.
Use a miter gauge or a crosscut sled with stoppers to cut the tenons and the half-lap joints.
Start the cuts a little further from the drawn marks and slowly sneak up on them until the cut/joint is perfect.
Cut the inner parts of the Castle with a coping saw first, then use a tenoning jig to clean the rest.
Use painter’s tape to prevent wood tear-out.
Keep sawdust from the cuts.
Use paste created from glue and sawdust to hide any imperfections in the joints.

Woodworking jigs you will need to cut a castle joint on a table saw

Find the necessary materials and the information on how to make these jigs in the videos below and provided blog posts.

1. Table Saw Tenon Jig

How to make a table saw tenoning jig for a table saw.

2. Table Saw Crosscut Sled

How to make a table saw crosscut sled.

How to Cut a Castle Joint on a Table Saw

Jigs used for this project:

This post How to Cut a Castle Joint on a Table Saw (With Pictures) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

Castle Joint DIY Outdoor Coffee Table with Herringbone Tabletop

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 08 Sep 2022 13:02:34 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

Castle Joint DIY Outdoor Coffee Table with Herringbone Tabletop

A caste joint is a 3-way woodworking joint, very often used when making beds, tables, and other furniture. It is not only one of the strongest wood joints but at the same time gives the joint elegance and makes it stand out aesthetically.

That is one of the main reasons why I decided to build an outdoor coffee table with castle joint legs and enhance it with a herringbone tabletop pattern.

Making a castle joint is not difficult and there are a few ways how to make it. The traditional way requires a hand saw (Japanese saw preferably) and a chisel. However, an “easier” way without the use of traditional tools is to cut the castle joint on a table saw with the help of a tenoning jig and a crosscut sled.

The table top of the coffee table is made from plywood arranged in a herringbone pattern. The pattern looks great, it beautifully highlights the table and gives it a nice touch. However, making a tabletop from a herringbone pattern could be quite a challenge, especially when keeping the herringbone pattern straight and making sure it is centered while assembling it. However, with a little diligence, this will not be a problem, and minor imperfections are easily hidden in the pattern.

The resulting outdoor coffee table looks awesome, not only because of the castle joints that give the table strength and robustness, but also thanks to the beautiful herringbone table top.

In this article, I will walk you through step-by-step how to make a DIY outdoor coffee table, more precisely how to build castle joints on a table saw using a tenoning jig, and how to make a tabletop by assembling wooden pieces into a herringbone pattern.

RELATED:

DIY Rectangle Outdoor Coffee Table with Castle Joint Legs - Video

If you want to see how it is done, watch the video below for a step-by-step guide on how to make an outdoor coffee table with castle joint legs and a herringbone tabletop pattern.

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DIY Coffee Table Video
Outdoor Coffee Table Plans
The Material you will need
General Questions
1. What is the difference between herringbone and chevron pattern?
2. What are the different ways to cut a castle joint?
3. How to center the herringbone pattern?
Castle Joint Outdoor Coffee Table with Herringbone Table Top
1. Step 1: Cut the Castle in the Table Legs
2. Step 2: Cut the Tenons in the Table Aprons
3. Step 3: Cut the Half Lap Joints in the Tenons
4. Step 4: Assemble the Coffee Table
5. Step 5: Make the Herringbone Table Top
What to pay attention to when making a coffee table with castle joints

Outdoor Coffee Table Plans

Download the Coffee Table Plans here

Download plans here

What you'll need to make a DIY outdoor coffee table

Material – Spruce Wood, Plywood

Coffee table legs
Spruce posts – 70 mm x 70 mm x 400 mm

Coffee table aprons
Spruce posts – 70 mm x 70 mm x 500 mm
Spruce posts – 70 mm x 70 mm x 600 mm

Coffee table top
Plywood base – 510 mm x 360 mm x 9 mm
Plywood strips – 60 mm x 11 mm x 12 mm – https://amzn.to/3TPULp2

Check all the Tools I Use

Tools:
Table Saw – https://amzn.to/47mWiGf
Miter Gauge – https://amzn.to/48DqfTC
Trim Router – https://amzn.to/3HbQcOg
Orbital Sander – https://amzn.to/48G9cjL
Hand Drill – https://amzn.to/3HqLEnH
T-Track Clamps – https://amzn.to/3tEKaCW
One Hand Clamps – https://amzn.to/48jGxkZ
Combination Square – https://amzn.to/41Lhp3U
Speed Square
Ruler Marking Gauge (make one)

Other:
Table Saw Blade – https://amzn.to/48maocv
Flat bottom saw blade (optional)
MicroJig Gripper Push Block – https://amzn.to/3vjQSP7
Router Flattening Bit – https://amzn.to/4aMQp8v
Sanding Discs – https://amzn.to/4aGaY6r
Wood Glue – https://amzn.to/48ltKhJ
Sandpaper Sheets – https://amzn.to/41OMx2p
Painter’s tape – https://amzn.to/48IgDXJ
Wood screws – https://amzn.to/41PodgQ
Spray Laquer – https://amzn.to/3RRED3J

We may earn an affiliate commission when you buy something through our retail links. As an Amazon Associate AllFlavor Workshop earns from qualifying purchases.

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What are the different ways to cut a castle joint?

A castle joint is a distinct type of woodworking connection that resembles the crenellations seen on old castles. This joint is not only aesthetically pleasing but also adds structural strength to woodworking projects.

When crafting table legs, there are two primary approaches to cutting a caste joint:

Use of traditional tools – Making a castle joint with traditional tools without using power tools. This method involves the use of a hand saw, a chisel, or possibly a coping saw.
Use of power tools – Making a castle joint with power tools. This method involves the use of an oscillating tool (often a router), or a table saw. When using a table saw, a tenoning jig, or a crosscut fence can be handy to achieve the desired accuracy.

What is the difference between herringbone and chevron pattern?

Many people mix up the Herringbone and Chevron patterns, but there’s a key difference in their designs.

For the herringbone pattern, each piece is cut at a 90-degree angle, so they form a zigzag pattern with every piece sitting perpendicular to its neighbors.

However, in the Chevron pattern, the pieces are cut at an angle to create a continuous V-shape. While the herringbone might be a tad simpler to craft because of its straight cuts, both designs take a good amount of time to create.

How to center herringbone pattern?

There are 2 ways to identify the center of a herringbone pattern:

Center on the short side of the tile – the center line passes through the centers of the ends of the tiles.
Center on the longer side of the tile – the center line passes through the centers of the longer sides. The longer side is equal to the total length of the tile from which the length of the shorter side is subtracted.

NOTE: The total cut size will determine which center should be selected.
Pick a center and measure the total cut size. In case you don’t want to end up with short cuts on the sides select the other center.

Let's start building!

For the DIY coffee table, I am using 70 x 70 mm spruce posts. For the table top a 9 mm thick plywood desk and 12 mm thick plywood strips for the herringbone pattern. After gluing the strips on the plywood desk and trimming the table surface the resulting thickness of the tabletop is 19 mm.

For the table legs as well as for the table aprons, I am using square posts which makes it easier when cutting the castle joints. Once you have all the tools set up (the combination square, the ruler marking gauge, the table saw, and others) you can simply make all the cuts repeatedly and accurately.

After assembling the castle joint legs, I decided to apply glue to the joints and fix them permanently. There are 2 main reasons for that. Firstly, there is no reason to disassemble the table again, and secondly, the combination of glue and sawdust will create a paste that nicely hides any imperfections in the joints.

NOTE: You can use cedar instead of spruce wood for this build, especially if it’s intended for outdoor use. Cedar is excellent for outdoor projects because it’s naturally resistant to moisture and decay.

However, don’t forget to protect the tabletop from water, as plywood isn’t fully waterproof; it only offers some water resistance.

DIY Outdoor Coffee Table with Castle Joint Legs

Step 1: Cut the Castle in the Table Legs

Measure and cut the table legs. The dimensions of the legs are 70 x 70 x 400 mm. To cut the legs I am using a table saw and a miter gauge with a set stopper to make sure the length of all the legs is equal.

Draw the castle on the leg. For that, I am using a marking gauge and a combination square. Once you have the settings, keep them, you will need them to cut the tenons as well.

Castle of the Castle Joint:

The depth of the castle equals the width of the post (70´mm)
Divide the width of the posts into thirds and cut the inner section

NOTE: Make sure the posts are straight and square. Both on the edges and the ends. Also, I decided to use square posts (70 x 70 mm). Having a square post makes it easier to cut all the castles and the tenons. Once you have all the settings in place you can repetitively cut all the joints.

To cut the bridle joint use a table saw tenoning jig. Raise the blade to the top mark (depth) of the joint and move the tenoning jig so the blade touches the inner “castle” mark.

Make the cut. Then rotate the post 90 degrees 3 times and make a cut on all 4 sides of the post. Repeat the process for all 4 table legs.

To get rid of the material from the middle of the joint I used a coping saw and then the tenoning jig to clean it. (You can directly clean the castle joint with the tenoning jig, but cutting the material on the saw is really messy and there is sawdust everywhere).

At this point, you have the castle of the castle joint.

TIP: Save the sawdust. You can use it when cleaning the imperfections in the castle joint.

Step 2: Cut the Tenons in the Table Aprons

Draw the castle joint on the table aprons using the same settings on the marking gauge and the combination square.

Tenons of the castle joint:

The depth of the tenons equals the width of the post (7cm)
Divide the width of the posts into thirds and cut the outer sections

Use the tenoning jig to cut the tenons on the table aprons. The height of the blade stays the same. Move the tenoning jig so the blade touches the outer “castle” mark.

Make the cut, rotate the post 180 degrees, and make another cut.

TIP: Start your cut a little further from the mark. You can always sneak up on the cut. Unfortunately, it doesn’t work the other way.

Roughly cut off the tenons and try the bridle joint. Keep on sneaking up on the cut until you get a nice joint fit. Once the fit is perfect cleanly cut the tenons using a miter gauge or a crosscut sled. If you use a miter gauge set a stopper on the table saw fence (don’t crosscut directly against the fence) and cut the tenons on all 4 table aprons.

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Step 3: Cut the Half Lap Joints in the Tenons

Join one of the table legs with one of the aprons and mark the internal crossing. Also, make a mark in the middle of the height of the apron.

Set the stopper on the table saw (table saw sled) and cut the half-lap joints in the tenons. Again, I am using a miter gauge for the cuts. Repeat the process for all 4 table aprons.

Now you have a castle joint.

Step 4: Assemble the Coffee Table

Connect the table legs and the aprons together and assemble the castle joints. Since the joints also serve as a decorative element, I am using glue to strengthen them and to fill any cracks in the joint.

TIP: If you want to get rid of tiny cracks and imperfections in the joints, make a paste out of glue and sawdust and rub it in the joints. Then use a sander and smooth them out.

Step 5: Make the Herringbone Table Top

First, cut a plywood desk (510 mm x 360 mm x 9 mm) for the tabletop. Check that the desk nicely fits on the table.

Cut a lot of plywood strips (60 mm x 11 mm x 12 mm) and sand the edges to get rid of splinters. The best way to cut the strips is to use a table saw in combination with a crosscut sled.

1. Make the herringbone pattern

Decide on the direction and the center of the herringbone pattern. To keep the herringbone pattern straight draw multiple auxiliary lines on the desk. Attach a piece of a straight wood bar or a lever along one of the drawn lines to create a guiding rail for the pattern.

Start gluing the pieces from the center of the desk, making sure they are glued to both the table and each other. Glue the first 2 pieces perpendicular to each other and continue with the other following the straight edge.

2. Finish the table top

Once the glue dries use a router sled to flatten the tabletop. Use an orbital sander and sandpaper ranging from 80 to 300 grit to smooth the surface and to get rid of the router bit markings.

Take light passes with the router. If you cut too deeply, it can leave more pronounced marks that are tougher to sand away.

Tape the edges with painter’s tape and cut off the wood excess from the table desk. Optionally you can bevel the edges of the desk.

3. Install the table top

To install the tabletop on the legs turn the table and the table desk upside down. This way the table and the desk will be in one plane. Mark the bottom of the table desk on both sides of the table.

Cut 2 plywood strips a secure them along the lines to the sides of the table with screws. Then install the tabletop. Optionally you can secure the tabletop from the bottom with metal angles.

I built a rectangular outdoor coffee table with castle joints legs and a herringbone tabletop. And this is how it looks. I am really happy with how it turned out and I’m definitely adding this piece of furniture to my terrace. 😉

If you want to use the table outside consider protecting it from external conditions.

What to pay attention to when making a coffee table with castle joints

Don’t change the settings on the marking gauge, the combination square, and the table saw until you’re done with each part of the castle joint at once.
Use a tenoning jig to cut the castle and the tenons. Set the stoppers when using a miter gauge while cutting the tenons and the half-lap joints.
When cutting a castle joint on a table saw it is better to start the cuts a little further from the marks and slowly sneak up on the cuts until the joint is perfect.
Use a paste created from glue and sawdust to clean and fix any imperfections on the castle joints.

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DIY Coffee Table with Herringbone Tabletop

Jigs used for this project:

KEEP READING: How to Cut a Taper on a Table Saw

This post Castle Joint DIY Outdoor Coffee Table with Herringbone Tabletop first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

3 Must Have DIY Corner Clamps For Your Workshop

About the author, Lukas — Mon, 15 Aug 2022 13:04:01 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

3 Must Have DIY Corner Clamps For Your Workshop

Corner clamps are definitely one of the most important and necessary pieces of equipment you will need for your workshop. From building cabinets, cupboards, or tables to joining two pieces of wood together a corner clamp is the right tool for the job and will help you achieve your goals. In this blog post, I am listing the 3 Best DIY Corner Clamps you will need for your workshop.

There are multiple types of corner clamps.

Clamping squares are generally used for all types of inner joints and can be used both on the inside and outside of the corner.
A single-handle corner clamp (right angle clamp) is used for tight 90-degree angles.
A double-handle corner clamp is used for heavy-duty projects where more clamping power is necessary.

If you are looking to buy corner clamps you will find out they are quite expensive and the quality is speculative. That is especially the case of single and double-handle 90-degree clamps. You can find a lot of types of corner clamps on the market, but there are only a few I would recommend.

However, you don’t need to spend money on buying clamps for your workshop, you can build them yourself. All of the clamps featured in this blog post are easy to make, and with a little diligence, any woodworking beginner can make them. Save the money and invest it elsewhere.

To create the clamps, you can use a circular saw or a jigsaw. Some additional jigs for either saw might come in handy during the construction. The required materials are affordable and can be found at local stores.

NOTE: Remember, woodworking projects usually require a lot of clamps (I mean a lot…), and having a variety of homemade clamps available is definitely not a bad idea.

Here are the 3 best DIY Corner Clamps that will assist you in successfully completing nearly any project.

Read below how to make these workshop clamps, how difficult it is to build them, and what material you will need. I’ve crafted and tested each one. Each type of corner clamp has a different use. Every corner clamp serves a unique purpose. Learn about their applications, advantages, and the time and cost involved in making them.

RELATED:

General Questions
1. Most important things to keep in mind when making a corner clamp
DIY Corner Clamps
1. DIY Corner Clamp (Clamping Squares)
2. Single Handle DIY Right Angle Clamp (90 Degree Clamp)
3. Double Handle DIY Right Angle Clamp (90 Degree Clamp)
My Experience

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Most important things to keep in mind when making a corner clamp

1. Design and Build

For a robust and durable build, I suggest using Baltic birch plywood. I recommend using Baltic birch plywood for the project. Birch plywood is a high-quality material that will reflect on the quality of the finished product. Also, think about the construction. The construction must be strong enough to hold firmly the wood pieces in position and should be able to withstand heavy loads.

2. Setup

Setting up the corner clamp should be easy, quick, and simple enough. Keep in mind that a project typically requires a lot of clamps. Spending a lot of time on their setup would be undesirable. Add extra slots and cutouts in your design. They will add additional ways how to attach the clamp to the material. Having these extra fixation options available is well worth it.

3. Accuracy

The accuracy of the corner clamp ultimately determines how precise the woodworking joint will be and if the clamp will hold the pieces in position at perfect 90 degrees.

There does not need to be a trade-off between accuracy and construction. You can build high-precision clamps even with basic tools. Also, consider if the quick-release clamp functionality makes sense. If not built well (and this is the case with most clamps available on the market), the quick-release feature is rather a disadvantage and can be an obstacle for precise perpendicular joints.

Best DIY Corner Clamps

Type of Corner Clamps	Time to Build	Difficulty	Cost of Build	Best For
Corner Clamp (Clamping Square)	2 Hours	Beginner	Few dollars	Clamping Miter Corner
Right Angle Clamp (90 Degree Clamp)	2-3 Hours	Beginner, Advance	Few tens of dollars	Precise 90-degree joints. Assembling large boards.
Double Handle Corner Clamp	3-4 Hours	Beginner, Advance	Few tens of dollars	Joints that require strength

Below you will find a summary of how to make these different types of DIY corner clamps.

There are multiple tools I have been using to make those – a circular saw, a trimming router, and a jigsaw but not all of them are necessary. A trimming router can be replaced with a jigsaw, and in many cases, a simple hand saw will do the job. There is no need for a lot of tools or power tools to make precision clamps. You can make good quality corner clamps even with a few basic tools.

For more details on each type of corner clamp, be sure to check out the relevant article.

Best DIY Corner Clamps

1. DIY Corner Clamp (Clamping Squares)

A corner clamp, also known as a clamping square, is used when assembling 2 pieces of wood together at 90 degrees.

Depending on the design they can be used both on the inside and outside of the corner and are very handy when joining 2 pieces of wood of different thicknesses. With a tiny addon, they can be also easily used to clamp miter joints.

Clamping squares can be used with all types of edges – perpendicular, beveled, or fragile cutting edges. Woodworking projects usually require a lot of clamps and a clamping square is one of the most commonly used clamps.

The body of the corner clamp has a drilled hole in the center for better clamping, which can be also used for clamping miter joints. There are 2 routed slots on both sides of the clamp and the tip of the clamp is flattened to prevent the glue from getting on it.

To build it you will need a circular saw or a hand saw, and a hand drill. Additionally, I am using a router and a jigsaw but those are not necessary to build it.

Material and tools needed	Time to build	Cost of build	Difficulty
Birch Plywood Wood Glue Router Bit Forstner Bit Double-sided "Carpet" Tape Sandpaper Circular Saw HAnd Saw	Several hours (around 2 hours)	Few dollars	Beginner

Woodworking jigs that can help in the building process (not a necessity though):

CONCLUSION: These corner clamps are great for joining 2 pieces of wood at 90 degrees. They are easy to use and quick to set up. Very useful for any woodworking project.

2. Single Handle DIY Right Angle Clamp (90 Degree Clamp)

A single handle right angle clamp is used when attaching 2 pieces of wood at 90 degrees usually on the edge of the corner.

Due to their design, they are used to clamp 2 pieces of wood of the same thickness. They can be used on the edges of the boards and can be used to make t-joints both along the edge of the board as well as on the end of the board.

They are perfect when working with larger sheets of wood. Assembling bigger boards together could be a challenge, but the right-angle clamp easily holds all the pieces in place and provides the necessary strength and comfort.

The spindle provides the necessary power to hold the pieces together, which is suitable for heavy-duty projects.

To build it you will need a circular saw or a jigsaw, and a hand drill.

Material and tools needed	Time to build	Cost of build	Difficulty
Birch Plywood Wood Screws, Washers T-nut Threaded Rod Forstner Bit Star Knob Sandpaper	Several hours (2-3 hours)	Few tens of dollars	Beginner/Advanced

Woodworking jigs that can help in the building process (not a necessity though):

CONCLUSION: The clamp is easy to build and quick to set up, great for projects where more clamping power is necessary. With a little diligence, you can achieve an accurate 90-degree angle. I have used it for several projects and I am very satisfied with how strong the connection is.

3. Double Handle DIY Right Angle Clamp (90 Degree Clamp)

A double handle right angle clamp is used for heavy-duty projects where a lot of clamping power is necessary.

Each of the jaws can be used separately, which gives the clamp many ways to use it. The versatility of the tool is amazing and to classify it only as a clamp wouldn’t be correct. The independent jaws allow the clamping of pieces of wood of different thicknesses.

The tool is mainly used as a clamping device but can be used as a drill press vise or even as a guide for making miter cuts. Another great application is to use it as a device for clamping picture frames, and that is actually how I use it.

It can be used freely or can be clamped down to a workbench for better stability. The clamp contains a drilled hole in the base at the joint section for glue excess.

To build it you will need a circular saw or a jigsaw, and a hand drill.

Material and tools needed	Time to build	Cost of build	Difficulty
Birch Plywood, MDF Drill Bit, Router Bit T-nut Forstner Bit Steel Square Threaded Rod Star Knobs Wood Screws	Several hours (2-3 hours)	Few tens of dollars	Beginner/Advanced

Woodworking jigs that can help in the building process (not a necessity though):

CONCLUSION: The versatility of the clamp is amazing and it can be used in multiple ways. I am using it the most for clamping pieces of wood of different thicknesses, clamping picture frames, and occasionally as a drill press vise.

It takes some time to build the clamp but the construction is durable and will last for a long time.

My Experience

These corner clamps are invaluable in the workshop. When working on woodworking projects, you’ll quickly realize you can never have too many clamps.

You can find a lot of decent clamping squares on the market (which really are 90 degrees), but in the case of single/double-handle right-angle clamps, the situation is worse. Many of them have imperfections, they are either not exactly 90- degrees, the spindle interferes with the joint, or the “quick release” functionality prevents the clamp from holding the work material precisely at 90 degrees.

Though they might suffice for basic clamping tasks, if precision is your goal, these clamps often fall short.

However, with a bit of effort and attention to detail, you can craft these clamps yourself. They’ll likely surpass the accuracy of many commercially available ones. Plus, crafting them yourself can be cost-effective. Clamps are not cheap and the extra money will certainly find use elsewhere.

I have used these clamps on numerous projects, and they’ve consistently delivered great results. Pick one below and build it.

Best DIY Corner Clamps For Every Workshop

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How to Make a Scissor Joint (Step by Step with Pictures)

About the author, Lukas — Fri, 27 May 2022 07:23:20 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

How to Make a Scissor Joint (Step by Step with Pictures)

A scissor joint in timber framing, also known as double-faced halved rabbeted oblique scarf splice, is a 2-way interlocking type of a scarf joint. The method of assembling the wood pieces not only guarantees the strength of the joint, but also makes the joint stand out aesthetically. The scissors joint can be used vertically or horizontally and is used both for decorative purposes as well as an element for stronger structural applications and supporting purposes.

There are a few ways how to make a scissor joint. Depending on the size of the workpiece multiple tools can be used. These tools typically are a circular saw, a table saw, a hand saw, a hand plane, or a chisel. These options or any combination thereof will provide the desired result.

In my case to make the scissor joint, as you will see in this article, I used a Japanese saw together with a chisel. Although a scissor joint is one of the basic wood framing joints and is one of the easier traditional woodworking joints to make, precision and accuracy are essential so that the two pieces fit together precisely. That is why Japanese saws (a Ryoba, or a Dozuki saw) are one the best hand saws for cutting the joint. They are versatile, sharp, thin, and easy to operate and they will provide the desired result.

RELATED:

How to make a castle joint with hand tools (Shiro joint) – a beautiful 3 way wood joint used to make beds and tables.
How to cut a castle joint on a table saw

How to Make a Scissor Joint Video

If you want to see how to cut one of the simplest timber frame joints, watch the video below for a step-by-step guide on how to cut a scissor joint.

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How to cut a Scissor Joint Video
The Material you will need
General Questions
1. What is a scissor joint used for?
2. Which is better a scissor joint or a scarf joint?
Timber Frame Scissor Joint Step-by-Step
1. Step 1: Mark the wood pieces
2. Step 2: Cut the Scissor Joint
3. Step 3: Clean the splice
4. Step 4: Assemble the wood pieces

Safety

What you'll need to make a Scissors Joint

For the Scissors Joint:
2x Spruce wood – 39 mm x 29 mm x 155 mm (1.5 x 1,15 x 6.1″)

Tools:
Ryoba saw
Chisel
Marking Gauge
Hand Plane (optional)

Additionally, what you might need is a Dozuki saw, a square, a marking pen, and perhaps a few clamps. These tools are optional, but they make the work much easier.

Nevertheless, the tools you’d need would largely depend on the scale and specific requirements of the job. As scissor joints are typically used on structural elements you might need a circular saw or a hand saw, a hammer, or a nail gun.

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What is a scissor joint used for?

A scissor joint is used when joining two members in woodworking and is primarily used in interior fittings and carpentry. The joint is used both for structural support and decorative purposes. It is mainly used when structural elements are needed in longer lengths or when replacing an old beam with a new one.

There are a few variants to the scissor joint: a single-faced splice, a double-faced splice, or a triple-faced splice. All variants can be used with or without a key. The key does not have any structural function, it mainly serves to hold the splice together making sure the joint will not get pulled apart.

The length of the splice affects the use of the scissor joint. Longer splices are used for decorative purposes as opposed to shorter splices which are mainly used for structural purposes. The longer the splice the weaker the joint.

When used as a decorative element the length of the splice typically equals twice the size of the cross-section whereas when used as a structural element the length of the splice typically equals the size of the cross-section. Generally, the splice joint is at least twice the thickness of the wood.

Which is better a scissor joint or a scarf joint?

A scissor joint is a type of scarf joint. These timber frame joints are used in interior fittings and carpentry and can be used both for support and decorative purposes.

Although there are a few variants to the scissor joint, the range of scarf joints is much wider, and therefore the possibilities of use and strength of the joints are more extensive.

There are two main categories of scarf – a plain scarf and an interlocking scarf.

A plain scarf joins two flat planes at an angle.
An interlocking scarf is additionally enriched with other elements such as hooks or keys, which make the joint stronger.

Both types of joints are usually dependent on additional mechanical fastening or adhesives to ensure joint strength.

Let's Start

When starting with the project, you should consider what will be the joint used for, how much pressure should it take, and if it will be used for structural or decorative purposes. That will determine the thickness of the material and the length of the splice (joint). Remember, the longer the splice the weaker the joint.

When making a scissor joint, wood pieces of different sizes (thicknesses) can be used. Regardless of the size, the procedure is the same.

After finishing the joint additional mechanical fasteners or adhesives are used to ensure the strength of the joint and to keep the joint closed.

How to Make a Scissor Joint Step-by-Step

Step 1: Mark the wood pieces

For the scissor joint, I am using a piece of spruce wood 40 x 30 x 155 mm. The wood pieces have a cross-section of 40 x 30 mm and the length of the splice is 80 mm.

Mark the joint using a square, a marking gauge, and a sharp pencil.
First, mark the length of the joint, then the diagonal cuts, and then the centerline on the top and bottom sides of the splice. Once finished, mark all the parts to be cut.

NOTE: The diagonal cuts are opposed to each other creating a “scissor” shape.

Mark the second opposite piece in the same way as the first one. Both pieces are exactly the same and will be cut in the same way.

Once finished with all four sides you should end up with a pattern as seen in the picture below.

Step 2: Cut the Scissor Joint

Secure the workpiece in place and start with the cuts. To cut the scissor joint I am using a Japanese saw – Ryoba saw.

The first cut goes vertically along the centerline to about halfway through the splice. The second cut is made on the opposite side of the wood piece to the same depth.

TIP: Make the cut on the inner side of the line. Fine cleaning will be done with a chisel.

Next, turn the workpiece to the left and make a diagonal cut halfway through the workpiece until the marked triangle is cut off. Repeat the same process on the opposite side of the joint.

The counterpiece is made exactly in the same way as the first piece.

You should end up with two pieces that look like this.

NOTE: After making all the cuts if there is still wood “between the scissors”, you can easily cut it off with a saw. This residual thin layer of wood is usually caused by making the cuts further from the centerline during the first cut. The farther the cut is made from the centerline, the thicker this residual layer of wood will be.

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Step 3: Clean the splice

For precise cleaning of the cuts, I am using a chisel. It’s essential to keep the chisel sharp because only a sharp chisel can ensure accurate cuts, leading to a perfect fit in wood joints. Make sure that all cuts align exactly with the marked lines.

Alternatively, a hand plane can be used.

TIP: You can use a reference piece of wood that serves as a guide for the chisel. Align the edge of the reference wood piece with the drawn line and cut off the wood excess on the joint with the chisel.

Step 4: Assemble the wood pieces

The scissor joint consists of two identical pieces of wood that fit exactly into each other and overlap one another on an even plane.

Once all the pieces are cut, you can easily assemble the joint. Slide one piece into the other and press both pieces together with force. If done well you will get a really nice snug fit.

Additionally, to ensure the strength of the joint and to keep the joint closed you can use mechanical fasteners, adhesives, or hooks and keys.

Now you have a scissor joint.

This double-faced halved rabbeted oblique scarf splice (without a key) is the basic type of a scissor joint. There are also other types such as the single-faced, the double-faced, or the triple-faced halved rabbeted oblique scarf splice. All of them can be used with or without a key.

It is important to take into account the type of pressure to which the joint will be exposed and the visibility of the joint. These factors will determine the length of the splice.

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Conclusion

So, this is the double-faced halved rabbeted oblique scarf splice, or as more widely known, the scissor joint. It is one of the basic timber frame joints and quite easy to make, although precision in creation is required to end up with a nice flush fit. So, if you are planning to start with Japanese joinery this is a good adept to start with.

Keep in mind that this joint was shown using small wood pieces. Since the joint is usually for structural support, the actual wood pieces would be bigger. While the joint-making process remains the same, the methods and tools might vary.

If you are interested in other woodworking joints check out this beautiful 3-way joint – the castle joint.

Timber Frame Joints - Scissors Joint

Jigs and tools used for this project:

Other Basic Woodworking Joints

Castle Joint

Frequently Asked Questions

I’ve got you covered with all the essential info – check out the FAQs below to clear any doubts.

How difficult is it to cut a scissor joint?

It’s not very difficult; the scissor joint is one of the basic timber framing joints and is suitable for woodworking beginners.

What are the best timber framing joints?

The best timber framing joints include the mortise and tenon, dovetail joint, scarf joint, and bridle joint. These joints are renowned for their strength, durability, and versatility in various woodworking applications.

What type of wood is good for framing?

For softwoods, Douglas fir, southern yellow pine, spruce, and hemlock are popular choices. When it comes to hardwoods, oak, ash, maple, and cherry are often selected for their strength and resilience.

This post How to Make a Scissor Joint (Step by Step with Pictures) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

Woodworking Joinery – AllFlavor Workshop

How to Make a Wooden Mallet (Step-by-Step DIY Guide)

Video: Watch the Build

Table of Contents

Wooden Mallet Plans

Materials and Tools Used

Mallet Design Notes (Size, Wood Choice, and the Optional Decorative Parts)

Let’s Start Building! (before the step-by-step)

How to Make a Wooden Mallet

Step 1: Cut the Handle Pieces (Plywood Pattern + Walnut Core)

Step 2: Glue the Handle Blank + Prep the Tenon End (Wedge Slots)

Step 3: Shape the Handle (Final Grip)

Step 4: Build the Mallet Head + Install the Handle (Glue + Wedges)

Step 5: Sand and Finish the Mallet (Final Shape + Oil)

Wrap-Up: A Shop Mallet You’ll Use All the Time

FAQs: How to Make a Wooden Mallet

1) What wood is best for a wooden mallet?

2) How do you make a wooden mallet strong?

3) Do I need wedges for a wooden mallet handle?

4) What size should a wooden mallet be?

5) What finish should I use on a wooden mallet?

Essential Router Jigs for Cabinet Making (And How to Use Them)

Table of Contents

Why Use Router Jigs for Cabinet Making?

Essential Router Jigs for Cabinet Making

1. Adjustable Router Dado Jig

2. Shelf Pin Jig

3. Router Mortising Jig

4. Router Circle Jig

5. Router Template Jig

6. Benchtop Router Table

7. Router Table Box Joint Jig

8. Router Table Spline Jig

Comparison Table: Router Jigs for Cabinet Making

Final Thoughts

FAQ: Cabinet Jigs

What router do I need for cabinet making?

Can I build these jigs with basic tools?

Are these router jigs beginner-friendly?

What materials do you recommend for building these jigs?

Do I need all of these jigs for cabinet making?

How to Make a Router Table Spline Jig (Step-by-Step)

DIY Router Table Spline Jig Video

Table of Contents

Router Table Spline Jig Plans

What you'll need to make a Router Table Spline Jig

What is a spline in woodworking?

What are the different ways of cutting a miter spline?

What router bit for cutting spline grooves?

Let's start building!

How to Make a Router Table Spline Jig

Step 1: Build the Sliding Base

Step 2: Make the Back Part of the Spline Jig

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Step 3: Make the Front Part of the Spline Jig

Step 4: Glue Both Parts to the Sliding Base

Step 5: Cut a Kerf in the Base

Step 6: Build the Stoppers

How to Set up and Use a Spline Jig for a Router Table

Miter Spline Jig

Jigs used for this project:

How To Make a Tenon Jig for a Router Table

DIY Router Table Tenon Jig Video

Table of Contents

Router Table Tenon Jig Plans

What you'll need to make a Router Table Tenon Sled

What is the mortise and what is the tenon?

What are the different ways of creating a mortise and tenon?

How do you make a tenon with a router?

Let's start building!

How to Make a Tenon Jig for a Router Table

Step 1: Make the Sled

1. Cut the t-track

2. Attach the guiding fence

Step 2: Make the Back Fence

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Step 3: Make the Front Fence

Step 4: Make a Hold-Down Clamp

How to Use a Tenoning Jig for a Router Table

Router Table Tenon Sled Improvements