Simple Woodworking Jigs – AllFlavor Workshop

Q: How deep should a cutting board handle be?

Typically 12–19 mm (1/2–3/4 inch) deep. Go shallower if you’ll add rubber feet, since the extra height provides finger clearance.

Q: How do I ensure the handles are routed to the exact same depth?

Set the depth stop on a plunge router, or dial in the depth on a palm router using a test piece and keep the same setting for both handles.

Q: What router bit should I use for cutting board handles?

Use a straight bit without a bearing (around 3/8–1/2 inch / 10–12 mm) guided by the template. A sharp bit gives cleaner walls and less burning.

Q: What’s the best way to sand the handles after routing?

Break the edges with a small chamfer or round-over, then hand-sand the recess through progressively finer grits until smooth.

Q: How do I avoid burn marks when routing handles?

Use a sharp bit, make multiple shallow passes, maintain a steady feed rate, and keep the router moving. For hardwoods, lower the RPM slightly if needed.

DIY Cutting Board Handle Jig (Step-by-Step with Router & Template)

About the author, Lukas — Fri, 07 Jul 2023 11:58:17 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

DIY Cutting Board Handle Jig (Step-by-Step with Router & Template)

When it comes to upgrading a cutting board, adding routed handles makes it not only easier to lift but also much nicer to use. There are different ways to cut handles, but one of the simplest methods (that doesn’t require a router table) is to use a palm router with a cutting board handle jig.

This jig is quick to make, works with any board size, and gives you clean, consistent results every time. All you need is a single board (MDF or Plywood) and you are good to go. You can use the jig for cutting boards, butcher blocks, or even wooden serving trays.

In this post, I’ll walk you through how I made mine, step by step, with pictures along the way. It’s a simple jig, but one I keep reaching for whenever I want professional-looking handles.

👉 Also see my Best Jigs for Making Cutting Boards for more ideas to level up your cutting board projects. I also now offer premium woodworking plans for selected cutting board jigs and bundles if you want the more complete version of the builds.

DIY Cutting Board Handle Jig – Video Tutorial

Want to see the jig in action? In this video, I show the full process of making a cutting board, including how I use the handle jig with a palm router to cut clean, consistent handles.

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1. Cutting Board Handle Jig – Video
2. Cutting Board Handle Jig Plans
3. The Material you will need to build it
4. General Questions
  1. Benefits of a Cutting Board Handle Jig
5. How to Make a Cutting Board Handle Jig (Step-by-Step)
  1. Step 1: Cut the Template
  2. Step 2: Draw the Design on the Template
  3. Step 3: Cut out the Inner Rectangle
  4. Step 4: Mark the Center of the Template
6. How to Route Cutting Board Handles
7. Final Thoughts
8. FAQ
9. Woodworking Jigs Used

Cutting Board Handle Jig Plans

I also offer a premium version of the Cutting Board Handle Jig plans, which includes:

✔ Metric and imperial measurements
✔ Detailed materials and hardware lists
✔ Exploded views and assembly drawings
✔ Additional build information and workshop tips
✔ Improvements and other resources

Browse all my premium woodworking plans.

Download the free Cutting Board Handle Jig Plans here

Download free plans here

Materials and Tools for the Cutting Board Handle Jig

Handle Jig:

Router Template – MDF, HDF, or plywood board (at least 8 mm / 5/16″ thick) for the jig template
Straight Router Bit (no bearing) – https://amzn.to/3RJvjiE

📌 Tip: A flat, stable sheet like MDF is easiest to work with for templates. Plywood works too, but avoid boards thinner than 8 mm (5/16″) for stability.

Tools:

Dewalt Trim Router – https://amzn.to/3HbQcOg
One Hand Clamps – https://amzn.to/48jGxkZ
F-Clamps – https://amzn.to/48ArzY1

Check all the Tools I Use

We may earn an affiliate commission when you buy something through our retail links. As an Amazon Associate AllFlavor Workshop earns from qualifying purchases.

Benefits of a Cutting Board Handle Jig

Using a cutting board handle jig makes routing handles faster, safer, and more accurate. Instead of measuring and guessing each time, you get consistent, repeatable results that look clean and professional.

Consistent results: The jig guides your router so every handle is the same size and position.
Time-saving: Once made, you can reuse the jig for any cutting board, butcher block, or tray. Just clamp it in place and route.
Better grip: The routed slots give your fingers a natural place to hold, making boards easier to lift and carry.

💡 Tip: This jig is especially handy if you plan to make multiple cutting boards — it ensures every handle lines up perfectly without extra measuring.

Let’s Start Building!

This cutting board handle jig is simple to make and only requires one sheet of MDF, HDF, or plywood. I used an MDF board because it’s flat, stable, and easy to work with — but any sheet material at least 8 mm (5/16″) thick will do.

💡 Tip: Don’t worry if you don’t have fancy tools. I used an adjustable router template guide and a table saw sled to cut mine, but you can just as easily make it with a jigsaw or even a handsaw.

Jig Properties

Dimensions: 290 × 145 × 8 mm (11 ½″ × 5 ¾″ × 5/16″)
Inner cut-out: 190 × 90 mm (7 ½″ × 3 ½″) → results in a routed handle size of 100 × 50 mm (4″ × 2″)
Built for: Dewalt palm router base plate — if you’re using a different router, adjust the template size to fit your base plate.

How to Make a Cutting Board Handle Jig (Step-by-Step)

Step 1: Cut the Template

Cut a board to 290 × 145 × 8 mm (11 ½″ × 5 ¾″ × 5/16″). I used MDF, but HDF or plywood works just as well. Use a table saw, sled, or jigsaw to make the cut.

💡 Tip: Avoid boards thinner than 8 mm (5/16″). The jig needs enough thickness to guide the router base without flexing.

Step 2: Mark the Handle Opening

Draw the rectangle for the inner cut-out (190 × 90 mm / 7 ½″ × 3 ½″). Keep your lines parallel and centered on the board so the jig routes evenly on both sides.

💡 Tip: Use a ruler or marking gauge to keep everything square and symmetrical.

Step 3: Cut Out the Inner Rectangle

Cut the rectangle opening 190 × 90 mm (7 ½″ × 3 ½″). This gives you a routed handle size of 100 × 50 mm (4″ × 2″).

There are several ways to do this:

Adjustable router template guide (cleanest cut).
Drill starter holes at the corners + cut with a jigsaw or handsaw.

💡 Tip: Take your time — the accuracy of this cut determines how clean your routed handles will look. Check this article for different ways to cut a square hole in wood – How to cut a square hole in wood

Step 4: Mark the Center Lines

Use a pencil to mark the center lines on the template (both width and length).

💡 Tip: When you clamp the jig onto a cutting board, align these center marks with the board’s center. This guarantees the handles are routed evenly on both sides.

How to Route Cutting Board Handles

Once your jig is ready, routing the handles is quick and straightforward. First, make sure your board is already flat and smooth — a Router Sled for Flattening Boards is a great way to get it prepped before adding handles.

Now here’s how to route the handles:

Mark the centers → Draw center points on both long edges of the cutting board.
Clamp the jig → Align the jig’s center marks with the board’s center marks. Clamp it firmly in place so it doesn’t shift.
Route the outline → Start with a shallow pass around the perimeter of the rectangle in a clockwise direction.
Remove the middle → Make multiple shallow passes until the entire center is cleared. Shallow cuts help avoid burn marks.
Repeat on the other side → Move the jig, clamp it again, and repeat the process for the second handle.

💡 Tip: Always route the outline first and leave the center for last. This way, the router base has full support until the very end, giving you a cleaner, even cut.

Final Thoughts on the Cutting Board Handle Jig

This jig is as simple as it gets — you can build it in about 30 minutes from one sheet of MDF, HDF, or plywood. Yet it makes a huge difference when adding handles to cutting boards, butcher blocks, or even wooden trays.

I personally prefer cutout handles on the bottom of a board rather than side handles — they’re easier to grab, and I like the clean look. That’s a personal choice, but this jig makes either option possible.

Over time, I’d probably upgrade this jig by adding stoppers to the front edges. That way, once the centers are aligned, the stoppers would automatically square the jig with the board, giving a quick and precise 90° setup.

There are also a few small tweaks you can try:

Round or sand the routed edges for a softer, more stylish grip.
If you plan to add rubber feet to the board, you can make the handles shallower. The extra height from the feet will give enough clearance for your fingers.

👉 If you’d like to try this yourself, you can browse my woodworking plans page for the more complete version of the builds, and you can also check out my Best Jigs for Making Cutting Boards guide for more inspiration.

📌 Save THIS PIN to your Board on Pinterest!

DIY Cutting Board Handle Jig — step-by-step tutorial with pictures.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a cutting board handle used for?

A routed handle makes a board easier to lift, carry, and maneuver. It adds comfort without changing the board’s footprint.

How deep should a cutting board handle be?

Typically 12–19 mm (½–¾″) deep. Go shallower if you’ll add rubber feet (the extra height gives finger clearance).

How do I ensure the handles are routed to the exact same depth?

Set the depth stop on a plunge router or use a test piece to dial in the depth on a palm router, then don’t change the setting between sides.

What router bit should I use for cutting board handles?

A straight bit without a bearing (e.g., ⅜″–½″ / 10–12 mm) guided by the template. Use a sharp bit for clean walls and less burning.

What’s the best way to sand the handles after routing?

Break the edges with a small chamfer/round-over (router or block), then hand-sand the recess through the grits until smooth.

How do I avoid burn marks when routing handles?

Use a sharp bit, multiple shallow passes, steady feed rate, and keep the router moving. If needed, lower RPM slightly for hardwoods.

Jigs used for this project:

This post DIY Cutting Board Handle Jig (Step-by-Step with Router & Template) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

How to Make a Coping Saw from Scratch: A Step-by-Step Tutorial

About the author, Lukas — Fri, 17 Mar 2023 12:16:34 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

How to Make a Coping Saw from Scratch: A Step-by-Step Tutorial

A coping saw is an essential tool for anyone interested in woodworking, carpentry, or DIY projects. It is a versatile tool that can be used to make intricate cuts and shapes in a variety of materials including wood, plastic, and more. One of the main benefits of a coping saw (jeweler’s saw) is that it allows you to make precise cuts that are difficult or impossible to make with other types of saws.

Making a coping saw is quite simple, which makes it a suitable project for beginners. The process involves making the frame, the handle, and the attachment for the blade. All the materials are inexpensive and easily available. Chances are, you already have all the required tools and materials in your workshop.

In this article, I will show you how to make a simple coping saw that is affordable and easy to make. Anyone with basic woodworking skills can complete this project.

One of the main advantages of a homemade coping saw is that it is much more affordable than purchasing one from a store, without sacrificing the quality of results. It is also very important to select and use the appropriate blades. The right blade will help you achieve the desired outcome without causing any damage to the material.

Read on to find out how to build a coping saw, tips for using it effectively, common mistakes to avoid when using a coping saw, and how to select the ideal blade for your project.

RELATED:

DIY Coping Saw Video

If you want to build your own coping saw, watch the video below for a step-by-step guide on how to do it.

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Coping Saw Video
The Material you will need
General Questions
1. What are the benefits of making a homemade coping saw instead of buying one?
2. What are some common mistakes to avoid when using a coping saw?
3. How to choose the right blade for a coping saw?
How to Make a Coping Saw
1. Step 1: Build the Frame
2. Step 2: Make the Handle
3. Step 3: Attach the Blade
How to Change the Blade on a Coping Saw
How to use a Coping Saw
Woodworking jigs used

*Safety is your responsibility. Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first!

What you'll need to make a simple Coping Saw

Coping Saw Frame
Plywood 1x – 130 mm x 300 mm x 12 mm – https://amzn.to/3TPULp2

Coping Saw Handle
Plywood 2x – 150 mm x 30 mm x 9 mm – https://amzn.to/3RPqm7Z
3x – 4mm brass pins – https://amzn.to/48JFxpT

Coping Saw Blade Attachment
M4 Bolts, T-nuts, Washers – https://amzn.to/41PodgQ

Check all the Tools I Use

Tools:
Table Saw / Proxxon Mini Table Saw – https://amzn.to/47mWiGf
Trim Router – https://amzn.to/3HbQcOg
Corded Hand Drill / Drill Press – https://amzn.to/3NSA3Bo
Circular Saw – https://amzn.to/4aMD0xg
Jigsaw – https://amzn.to/3S85cDr
Orbital Sander – https://amzn.to/48G9cjL
One Hand Clamps – https://amzn.to/48jGxkZ
Spring Clamps – https://amzn.to/41Nuh9D
F-Clamps – https://amzn.to/48ArzY1
Japanese Ryoba saw – https://amzn.to/48if4Qz

Other:
Wood Glue – https://amzn.to/48ltKhJ
Epoxy – https://amzn.to/3tJ5R4L
Drill bits – 4mm – https://amzn.to/48Kaaf7
Router bits – 6mm – https://amzn.to/3NQNDVX
Forstner Bits – https://amzn.to/3Hd1aDb
Sandpaper Sheets – https://amzn.to/41OMx2p
Jigsaw Blades – https://amzn.to/4aXeF83
Spray Laquer – https://amzn.to/41N41w8
Coping Saw Blades

We may earn an affiliate commission when you buy something through our retail links. As an Amazon Associate AllFlavor Workshop earns from qualifying purchases.

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What are the benefits of making a homemade coping saw instead of buying one?

Making a homemade coping saw offers a range of benefits, including cost savings and the ability to customize the tool to fit your needs. Here are some advantages to creating a homemade coping saw instead of buying one:

Affordability: Making your own coping saw will save you money, especially if you already have most of the materials in your workshop. Purchasing a new coping saw can be expensive, and making your own can be a much more affordable option.
Customization: When you make your own coping saw, you have complete control over its design, allowing you to customize it to suit your needs and preferences. You can create a coping saw that perfectly fits your hand and has the required blade tension.
Educational: Building your own coping saw can also be a great learning and crafting experience, as you will gain a better understanding of how the tool works and how to use it properly.

What are some common mistakes to avoid when using a coping saw?

When it comes to using a coping saw, there are several common mistakes that you should avoid in order to achieve the best results. By avoiding these common mistakes, you can make the most out of your coping saw and achieve precise cuts with ease.

Applying too much force – using too much force while sawing can cause the blade to bend or break, so it’s important to let the saw do the work and guide it along the cutting line.
Using the wrong blade – using the wrong blade for the job can lead to frustration and poor results. Make sure you select the correct blade for the material you are cutting and the shape you’re trying to achieve.
Inadequate workpiece securing – not properly securing the workpiece can cause it to move around while cutting, resulting in inaccurate cuts. Always clamp or hold the workpiece firmly in place before sawing.
Ignoring saw angle – not paying attention to the saw’s angle can cause the blade to veer off course and ruin the cut.

How to choose the right blade for a coping saw?

Choosing the right blade for a coping saw is crucial for achieving accurate and efficient cuts. When looking for a coping saw blade, important factors to consider include the material being cut, the shape of the cut, and the desired finish. For instance, if you are cutting softwood, a blade with fewer teeth per inch (TPI) will work best, while a blade with more TPI is ideal for cutting hardwood. The shape of the cut will also affect the blade selection, with fine blades being used for intricate shapes and coarse blades for rougher cuts.

Here are 3 of the best coping saw blades you can use for your projects. All of these blades work fine and will help you achieve great results.

IRWIN Tools Coping Saw Blades – great for rough cuts and can handle a variety of materials, with 17 TPI and hardened carbon steel construction for long-lasting durability.
Pegas Swiss Made Double Tooth Coping Saw Blades – feature a unique tooth pattern that provides a smooth finish and is perfect for cutting materials up to 1 inch thick.
Olson Saw PG49802 Precision Ground Scroll Saw Blade – a premium quality blade that is ideal for intricate cuts, with 46 TPI and a narrow kerf for improved accuracy.

I personally prefer the IRWIN Tools Coping Saw Blades. They are affordable, very easy to use, and provide excellent results. The blade is perfect for rough cuts, which is what I typically need. After using them for some time, they showed to be quite durable and long-lasting. For the majority of cutting I do, these are sufficient.

Let's start building!

Making a coping saw involves making the frame, the handle, and the attachment for the blade.

The frame and the handle are made of Baltic birch plywood. The handle of the coping saw is designed to fit comfortably in the hand, with a secure grip, and is decorated with end grain plywood shaped into a herringbone pattern. The blade is attached to the frame with washers, nuts, and screws.

The overall dimensions of the coping saw are 13cm x 30cm x 2,5cm. The blade length is 11cm and the projection is 10,5cm.

Coping Saw properties:

Material: Baltic birch plywood, screws, t-nuts
Total dimensions: 13cm x 30cm x 2,5cm (5.12 x 11.81 x 0.98 inches)
Blade length: 11cm (4.33 inches)
Projection: 10,5cm (4.13 inches)

This is a simple woodworking project for complete beginners. You can easily complete the coping saw on a weekend.

NOTE: The most important part of the build is the installation of the blade. The frame should be sturdy enough to provide the necessary support while also being flexible enough for easy blade mounting. The blade must be mounted straight with appropriate tension. Considering these factors, I opted for plywood as the preferred material. Aluminum or steel would work as well but are more expensive and less available.

How to Make a Coping Saw

Step 1: Build the Frame

Draw the design of the coping saw frame on the plywood desk and cut it out. There are several tools I used to cut out the shape – a circular saw with a guide a jigsaw together with a straight-edge guide, and a Japanese Ryoba saw. Honestly, the only tool you need for this is a Jigsaw.

Once the shape is cut, sand the edges and round the corners to get rid of splinters.

TIP: Drill a few holes in the corners before cutting out the shape of the frame. It will make operating the jigsaw easier and prevent the blade from getting stuck in the wood.

To install M4 T-nuts onto the frame, begin by drilling two holes. The first hole should be shallow and made using a Forsner bit. The second hole should go all the way through the frame. Once the holes are drilled, install the T-nuts and ensure that they are flush with the surface.

Optionally, you may trim the excess wood from the opposite side of the T-nuts. Doing so will allow space for the washers and the blade to be sunk into the frame and sit flush with the surface. Be careful not to hit the T-nut though!

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Step 2: Make the Handle

You can make the handle as simple as possible or give it a nice touch, as I did. Either way, it will work as intended since, after all, it is just a handle. 😉

The handle is made from end-grain plywood shaped into a herringbone pattern.

Cut several plywood strips. The best way is to use a table saw with a crosscut sled. After cutting the strips, glue them together with the end grain facing upwards. Allow the glue to dry, then use a sander or sled to smooth the surface.

Cut the strips to size and glue them onto the handle. Next, drill several holes through the handle and insert brass pins, applying epoxy to secure them in place. Allow the epoxy to cure and then remove any pin protrusions.

The brass pins not only add a nice touch to the handle but also hold all the handle pieces securely together.

Shape the handle using an orbital sander and sandpaper strips so that it nicely fits in the hand. As for the finish, apply spray lacquer to the handle. This will provide protection and bring out the herringbone pattern

Step 3: Attach the Blade

To attach the blade to the coping saw, make use of the T-nuts. Place the blade between two washers and secure it with a screw. The washers serve as a “vise” and will hold the blade securely in place.

TIPS:

It is much easier to install the blade when the coping saw is mounted on a vise.
Firstly, tighten the lower screw, bend the frame a bit, and then tighten the upper screw. You will end up with a straight and tightly secured blade.

How to Change the Blade on a Coping Saw

The steps provided below describe how to change the blade on a coping saw. Refer to the included video for a better understanding.

Fix the frame of the coping saw into a vise. (Preferably a wooden vise to prevent damaging the frame)
Loosen the screws that are holding the blade in place.
Insert the blade, making sure that the teeth are facing downwards – towards the handle of the saw.
Tighten the screws to secure the blade in place.
Bend the frame slightly to get the right blade tension.
Make sure the blade is straight and not bent.
Check the blade is installed properly and tighten the screws.
Adjust as needed after several test cuts.

TIPS: Tighten the lower part of the blade first, bend the frame slightly, tighten the upper part of the blade, and tighten as needed. That will ensure the blade is securely tightened in the frame and provides the right tension. (This tip applies specifically to this DIY coping saw. It might be different for other coping saws).

How to Use a Coping Saw

The steps provided below describe how to use a coping saw. This is a simple guide for beginners.

Make sure the blade is securely tightened in the frame.
Secure the workpiece in place to prevent any movement.
Position the blade at the place of the cut, with the teeth facing towards you.
Slowly begin sawing with a steady motion. Make sure the blade is perpendicular to the material being cut.
Follow the cut line with the saw blade. Adjust the angle of the coping saw as needed for curved cuts.
Continue sawing until the cut is complete. Sand the edges to achieve a smooth finish

TIPS: Do not force the blade or apply too much pressure on it while cutting. Let the blade do the work. When making curved cuts adjust the angle of the coping saw a bit earlier. The width of the blade determines how fast the blade can turn/follow the cut line.

Homemade Coping Saw

Other Jigs used for this project:

Although it may seem that a lot of jigs are necessary to build the coping saw, that is not the case. The jigs are not essential for the build but they help a lot.

This post How to Make a Coping Saw from Scratch: A Step-by-Step Tutorial first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

How to Make a Dado Without a Router (No Power Tools)

About the author, Lukas — Wed, 09 Feb 2022 20:43:21 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

How to Make a Dado Without a Router (No Power Tools)

Instead of “How to make a dado without a router” this blog post should have been called “How to make a dado without a router or any power tool, or any hand tool”.

I needed to make a dado cut while building my ruler marking gauge without using any of these tools. I was looking for different options and eventually, I created a simple sanding jig which helped me to achieve it. Honestly, cutting a dado without any tools was quite a challenge.

Yes, we know that the most effective way to make a dado cut is by using a trimming router. In case you don’t have a router, you can use other tools such as a Dado plane, a chisel, or, in certain cases, a table saw or a miter saw. However, what would you do if you didn’t have access to any of these tools?

I made a simple sanding jig that helped me specifically to make a dado for my ruler marking gauge. The jig could be improved in a few ways but even this simple version served its purpose well. The dados are clean and have sharp edges.

I made this jig from wood scraps I had in the shop. The jig has a fixed width at the moment but you can make it adjustable to extend its applicability. I am very happy with the result considering I spent only 15 minutes on making it.

RELATED:

DIY Ruler Marking Gauge (built with the dado sanding jig)
Best DIY Woodworking Jigs for the Workshop

Methods to Cut a Dado
The Material You Will Need
Making a Sanding Jig for Dados
1. Step 1: Cut the baseboard
2. Step 2: Attach the guide rails to the base
3. Step 3: Attach the sanding piece between the rails
4. Step 4: Sand a dado
Dado Sanding Jig Video

*Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first!

Different Methods to Cut a Dado

When it comes to cutting a dado, there are several methods you can use to achieve precise and clean results.

1. Cutting a Dado on a Table Saw

One common and efficient approach is using a simple blade or a dado blade on a table saw. The dado blade is specially designed to make wide and shallow cuts, which are ideal for creating dadoes. By adjusting the height and fence position on the table saw, you can achieve the desired width and depth of the dado. This method is popular among woodworkers for its speed and accuracy.

2. Cutting a Dado with Router

When it comes to cutting dadoes, you have another excellent and versatile option – using a router with a straight bit. Routers are incredible tools for this task, giving you the flexibility to adjust the cutting depth and create dados of different sizes. To achieve precise results, simply use a straight edge as a guide and run the router along it. Whether you need through dadoes or stopped dadoes, this method works like a charm and adapts to various project requirements. With a router in hand, you’ll master dado cuts with ease and efficiency.

3. Cutting a Dado with Hand Tools

For those without a table saw or router, a chisel and mallet can also do the job. While this method may require more time and effort, it can still yield satisfactory results, especially for smaller projects or if you prefer a handcrafted touch. However, it’s essential to be patient and take your time to avoid any mistakes.

4. Other Methods

Alternatively, a dado saw guide can be an excellent choice for handheld circular saws. This guide acts as a fence and stabilizes the saw, allowing you to cut precise dadoes without the need for a table saw or router. It provides added control and safety during the cutting process.

Also, for simple shallow dados a sanding jig can be used with excellent results.

The material I Used:

Sanding Dado Jig:
Guiding Rails – 2x -Spruce Wood 38 x 200 mm
Baseboard – MDF desk – 255 x 255 x 8 mm
Wood Screws / Assortment Kit – https://amzn.to/41PodgQ

Check all the Tools I Use

Other:
Steel Ruler – https://amzn.to/3vvTHNo
Wood Glue – https://amzn.to/48ltKhJ
Sandpaper (120, 240 grit) – https://amzn.to/41OMx2p
Double-Sided (Carpet) Tape – https://amzn.to/3tPMGpM

Tools:
Bosch Jigsaw – https://amzn.to/3S85cDr
One Hand Clamps – https://amzn.to/48jGxkZ
Quick Clamps – https://amzn.to/48jGxkZ

We may earn an affiliate commission when you buy something through our retail links. As an Amazon Associate AllFlavor Workshop earns from qualifying purchases.

Let's Start

How to Make a Dado Without a Router, Hand Tools or Power Tools

The principle is simple. Use material of a specific width to make an exact width dado.

The size of the material will determine the width of the cut. I am using a ruler to make a dado of the same width as the width of the ruler. The jig will allow you to make exact width dados depending on the used material.

Step 1: Cut the baseboard

I started by cutting an MDF board for the base – (255 x 255 x 8 mm). The thickness of the base ensures that it will not sag while sanding. You could even use a thicker plate.

The reason I chose an MDF board is that it is flat, strong, it doesn’t warp and the surface is smooth. That makes it easier for other materials to slide better along it.

Step 2: Attach the guide rails to the base

Next, I attached a 200 mm long strip of spruce wood to the MDF board using screws. The wood piece serves as a guiding rail for the piece that will be sanded.

I measured the necessary distance between the rails and attached the second guide rail to the board. Use the sanded piece as a reference to get an exact width.

NOTE: Make sure the rails are perfectly parallel to each other

NOTE: If building the sanding jig over again I would probably use aluminum guide rails instead of spruce wood guide rails. For a quick fix, the wooden rails serve really well but the aluminum ones would also provide a nice slide and in addition better durability.

Take into account the height of the rail. The sanded piece is moving between the rails. So ideally, the height should cover the height of the sanded piece plus the height of the piece used for sanding. In my case the don’t rails don’t need to be too high since I am sanding only a shallow dado.

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Step 3: Attach the sanding piece between the rails

First I attached a double-sided tape on one side of the ruler. I taped sandpaper to it (240 grit) and cut off the sandpaper excess. Then I attached a double-sided tape on the other side of the ruler and taped the ruler between the guide rails.

The tape will let you temporarily fix the ruler to the board. You can detach it whenever needed. I wouldn’t probably use sandpaper with less than 120 grit since the edges of the dado might end up ragged. Higher grit sandpaper will get you a sharp dado edge.

Step 4: Sand a dado

I placed the piece I wanted to sand between the guide rails and started sanding by pushing back and forth. Keep the speed constant and apply even pressure.

Keep checking on the dado to end up with the right depth. (Keep in mind there is an additional layer of tape and sandpaper).

And this is what the dado looks like. The edges are sharp, nice, and clean.

My Take

I was pleasantly surprised by the result – nice sharp and clean edges and equal depth along the dado. It is a very simple jig but serves its purposes well considering no power tool or hand tool was used.

However, there is room for improvement. These are the major drawbacks of the build that could be improved:

The jig is not adjustable. It cannot accommodate pieces of different sizes. Making one of the side rails adjustable would solve the problem.
There is no center finder to automatically adjust the center of the sanding piece depending on the width of the sanded material.
There is no setting of the depth of the cut.

If you’re thinking about cutting a dado with a router, just make sure to use the correct dado bit, like the one I’ve mentioned below. CMT bits are one of the best.

CMT Straight Bit

Smooth and precise cut. Exceptional chip ejection to allow cleaner cutting

KEEP READING:

Dado Sanding Jig Video

If you want to see how I made the sanding jig, watch the video below or check it out on my Youtube Channel.

How to Make a Dado Without a Router

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This post How to Make a Dado Without a Router (No Power Tools) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

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Table of Contents

Different Methods to Cut a Dado

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2. Cutting a Dado with Router

3. Cutting a Dado with Hand Tools

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The material I Used:

Let's Start

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My Take

Dado Sanding Jig Video

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