How accurate does the 45 degree angle need to be?

For picture frames, small errors add up quickly. If each miter is off by even a small amount, the corners will not close tightly. It is worth taking a few minutes to dial in the angle with test cuts on scrap. Cut two miters, fold them together, and check if the corner is open inside or outside. A small adjustment to the fence and another test cut usually gets you to a clean 90 degree corner.

Table Saw Jigs – AllFlavor Workshop

DIY Mobile Table Saw Workbench (Step by Step with Pictures)

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 04 Jun 2026 14:00:00 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

DIY Mobile Table Saw Workbench (Step by Step with Pictures)

A mobile table saw workbench like this can make a big difference in a smaller workshop or garage. That was exactly why I built mine. I wanted something compact enough to fit the space, but still practical enough to support the saw properly, add storage, and make everyday work around the table saw easier.

This build is designed around the DeWalt 7491, but with small adjustments it can fit other table saws too. What makes it really useful is the modular design. The movable base, the frame, the storage, and the top are all built separately, so parts can be removed, replaced, or upgraded later if needed.

The structure is made from Baltic birch plywood, while the tabletop is MDF so it stays smooth, flat, and easy to replace once it wears out. The top sits flush with the saw, there is space for a vacuum and extra tools, and the workbench also includes an extendable folding outfeed table for extra support when needed.

The full size is 110 × 100 × 93 cm (43.3″ × 39.4″ × 36.6″), including the casters, so it still fits well in a smaller shop while giving you much more than just a saw stand.

If you want to see more workshop builds and table saw ideas like this, have a look at my woodworking plans page or check out Best Table Saw Jigs for Your Workshop.

Video: Watch the Build

If you want to see how the workbench comes together, watch the video below. It shows the overall build, the main parts, and how the modular setup works in practice.

And if you enjoy projects like this, feel free to subscribe to my YouTube channel for more woodworking jigs, workshop builds, and table saw projects.

DIY Mobile Table Saw Workbench 1: Base Frame
DIY Mobile Table Saw Workbench 2: Upper Cabinet Level
DIY Mobile Table Saw Workbench 3: Tabletop and Outfeed Table
DIY Mobile Table Saw Workbench – Addon: Tabletop T-tracks

Downloadable Table Saw Workbench Plans
Materials and Tools
Why Build a Mobile Table Saw Workbench?
Let’s Start Building!
Step 1: Build the Base Frame
Step 2: Build the Upper Cabinet Level
Step 3: Build the Tabletop and Outfeed Table
Step 4: Final Assembly and Finishing Touches
Wrap-Up
Frequently Asked Questions

*Safety is your responsibility. Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first!

Table Saw Workbench Plans

Plans for this mobile table saw workbench are coming soon. I am currently working on them, and once they are ready, I will add them here.

The plans will include the key dimensions, main parts, materials, and the overall build layout to make the project easier to follow and build.

Materials Needed

For this build, I used Baltic birch plywood for the main body, a thicker MDF top, and sturdy locking casters to make the workbench mobile but stable. I’ll list all the materials and tools I used below so you can adjust the build to your own workshop and planer if needed.

Some of the links below may be affiliate links. If you buy through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Wood

Baltic Birch Plywood
MDF

Hardware

Caster Wheels – https://amzn.to/3Od2Qki

Other Materials

Varnish – https://amzn.to/3TOoOO3
Wood Glue – https://amzn.to/3RDDWLi
Silicon Brush – https://amzn.to/3NPlgaq
Sanding Discs – https://amzn.to/4aGaY6r
Sandpaper Sheets – https://amzn.to/41OMx2p
Protective Gloves – https://amzn.to/3TPCVT7
Dust Rspirator – https://amzn.to/3H3hKWi
Respirator Cartridge – https://amzn.to/48GCBKJ
Eye Protection – https://amzn.to/3S9tD3q

Tools

Table Saw – https://amzn.to/47mWiGf
Orbital Sander – https://amzn.to/48G9cjL
Cordless Hand Drill – https://amzn.to/3HqLEnH
Table Saw Blade – https://amzn.to/48maocv
Grr-Ripper Push Block – https://amzn.to/3vjQSP7
Narex Chisels – https://amzn.to/3tHNJrT
Wolfcraft L-Angle – https://amzn.to/4aGaT2D
Spring Clamps – https://amzn.to/41Nuh9D
F-Clamps – https://amzn.to/48ArzY1
Bessey Parallel Clamps – https://amzn.to/3TNpa7p
Piher Quick Clamps – https://amzn.to/48rmFMU
WolfCraft Quick Clamps – https://amzn.to/48jGxkZ
T-Track Clamps – https://amzn.to/3tEKaCW
Bench Cookies – https://amzn.to/48iPHhn
Drill Bit Set – https://amzn.to/48Kaaf7
Forstner Bit Set – https://amzn.to/3Hd1aDb

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DIY Mobile Table Saw Workbench — compact, modular, and built for a smaller workshop.

Why Build a Mobile Table Saw Workbench?

A mobile table saw workbench makes a lot of sense if you work in a smaller workshop or garage and want to get more out of the space you have. Instead of having just a saw stand, you get one compact setup that gives you support for the saw, extra storage, more working surface, and the flexibility to move it when needed.

That is what I wanted from this build. I did not want a huge fixed station that would take over the whole shop, but I also did not want to keep working with the table saw as a standalone tool without proper support around it. This workbench sits somewhere in between — compact enough to fit a smaller space, but still practical enough to make daily work easier.

A few of the main benefits are:

Mobility – you can move the whole workbench around the shop when needed
Compact footprint – it fits a smaller workshop or garage much better than a large fixed station
Flush support surface – the top sits level with the table saw, which helps when handling longer or wider pieces
Extra storage – there is room for larger tools, smaller accessories, and even a vacuum
Modular design – parts are built separately, so they can be removed, replaced, or upgraded later
Extendable outfeed support – the folding outfeed table gives you extra support only when you need it
Replaceable top – the MDF top is smooth and easy to swap out once it gets worn

For me, that combination is what makes this build worth it. It is not just a stand for the saw — it becomes a more complete workstation that helps you work better, stay more organized, and get more use out of the table saw in a smaller shop.

Let’s Start Building!

The idea behind this build is to make a compact but practical mobile table saw workbench that does more than just hold the saw. It combines a strong base frame, tool storage, a flush tabletop, and extra support through the folding outfeed section, all in one setup that still fits a smaller workshop.

The build is made in separate modular parts, which makes the whole process easier and also gives you more flexibility later on. The movable base carries the structure, the saw sits flush with the top, the shelves and boxes add storage, and the MDF top can be replaced when needed. That modular approach is one of the biggest strengths of this workbench.

How to Make a Mobile Table Saw Workbench

Step 1: Build the Base Frame

The first step is building the base frame, which is the main structure the whole workbench sits on. This part carries the weight of the table saw, the storage, the top, and everything else, so it needs to be strong, square, and well assembled. The finished base frame measures 110 × 100 × 60 cm (43.3″ × 39.4″ × 23.6″).

I built this part from Baltic birch plywood, cutting all the pieces to size first and then sanding and cleaning them a bit before assembly. The main goal here is to build three supporting frames and then connect them together with the larger deck pieces to form one solid rectangular base. I used glue and screws for the assembly, and once the frame was together, I cleaned up the joints with sandpaper and a chisel where needed.

This step is really about getting the structure right. Take your time and make sure the frames are square and the full base ends up as a clean rectangle. A quick check of the diagonal measurements helps a lot here. Once the frame is assembled, I add the heavy-duty locking casters to support the weight and make the whole workbench mobile. After that, I add the top made from two plywood boards, which creates the platform where the table saw will sit. You can also add varnish here if you want a bit more protection.

This base frame is one of the most important parts of the whole build. If it is solid, square, and stable, the rest of the workbench comes together much more easily.

TIP: Check the diagonals before fully locking everything in place. It is one of the easiest ways to make sure the base frame is truly square.

Step 2: Build the Upper Cabinet Level

The second step is building the upper cabinet section, which brings the workbench up to the same level as the table saw and adds a lot of the storage and functionality around it. This part sits on top of the base frame and supports the upper work surface, while also creating space for shelves, tool storage, and access around the saw.

I made this section from Baltic birch plywood, cutting all the cabinet parts to size first and then assembling them with glue and screws. Some of the cabinets include dadoes for shelves, which helps with both strength and alignment. One important thing here is to make sure all cabinets end up at the same height, because they need to sit flush and support the upper workbench surface evenly.

In the back cabinet, I added a cutout for the dust hose and made a removable access door attached with magnets, which makes it much easier to reach in when needed. After that, I screwed all the cabinets to the base frame and checked that they sat properly in line with each other. I also made a few cutouts in the upper cabinet parts so the table saw fence can move freely and so there is access around the riving knife release handle.

TIP: Before fixing the cabinets in place, double-check that they are all at the same height and that the fence and handle cutouts give you enough room for smooth movement.

Step 3: Build the Tabletop and Outfeed Table

The next step is building the tabletop and the folding outfeed table, which turn the workbench into a much more usable table saw station. This is the part that creates the main support surface around the saw, helps with handling larger workpieces, and makes the whole setup feel like one continuous workstation.

For the top, I used a combination of plywood underneath and MDF on top. I like this approach because the plywood gives the structure support, while the MDF creates a smooth, flat, replaceable work surface. I first cut all the pieces to size, attached the plywood sections to the middle cabinet layer with screws, and then temporarily fixed the MDF tops in place with clamps before screwing them from below. That makes it easier to align everything properly and keep the separate top sections level with each other.

Once the main top was in place, I installed the table saw and adjusted its height so it sits flush with the surrounding workbench surface, or even just a tiny bit higher. I used a few plywood support pieces underneath the saw to fine-tune that position. It is also important here to check that the fence still slides freely after the saw is set in place.

At the back, I added the collapsible outfeed table, which gives extra support for longer boards when needed. Just like the main top, the outfeed section should sit level with the rest of the workbench so the material can pass smoothly across it.

TIP: Take your time with leveling here. Even small height differences between the saw, the main top, and the outfeed table can affect how smoothly material moves across the workbench.

Step 4: Final Assembly and Finishing Touches

The last step is about bringing the whole mobile table saw workbench together and adding the final details that make it practical to use every day. At this point, the main structure is already done, so now it is about fitting the remaining parts properly and making sure the table saw can still be used comfortably inside the workbench.

One of the important finishing details is cutting slots in the tabletop so a table saw sled can slide further without being blocked by the surrounding surface. I also add the needed cutouts in the top for access to things like the riving knife release lever and for removing or adjusting the table saw fence more easily. These small details matter a lot, because they keep the workbench from getting in the way of how the saw is actually used.

After that, I cut and install the shelves and add the side panels, which help finish the build visually and make the storage sections more usable. If you want, this is also a good point to install an electrical outlet extender, which can make the whole setup even more practical in a small workshop.

TIP: Before making the last cutouts in the tabletop, test the saw fence, sled, and main controls once more. It is much easier to adjust openings now than after everything is fully finished.

Wrap Up

This mobile table saw workbench is exactly the kind of shop build I like having around. It does not just hold the saw — it gives you a better work surface, more storage, extra outfeed support, and the flexibility to move the whole setup when needed. In a smaller workshop or garage, that makes a big difference.

What I like most is that it stays compact and modular. The main parts are built separately, the top is replaceable, there is room for storage and dust collection, and the whole workbench can still be adjusted or improved later. So even though it is a fairly simple build in principle, it gives back a lot in daily use.

If you use your table saw often and want a setup that feels more complete without taking over the whole shop, this is definitely a project worth building. It makes the saw easier to use, keeps more things close at hand, and helps the whole workspace feel more organized.

And if you want to see more workshop builds, jigs, and plans like this, have a look at my woodworking plans page.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I build a mobile table saw workbench for a saw other than the DeWalt 7491?

Yes. This build is designed around the DeWalt 7491, but with small adjustments you can adapt it to fit other table saws as well. The main thing is to measure your saw carefully and make sure the top and support structure match its size and height.

Why use MDF for the top instead of plywood?

I like using MDF for the top because it is smooth, flat, and easy to replace once it gets worn out. The plywood underneath gives the structure strength, while the MDF creates a better work surface around the saw.

Do I really need an outfeed table on a mobile table saw workbench?

You do not absolutely need one, but it makes the setup much more practical. A folding outfeed table gives extra support for longer boards and panels, and because it folds away, it does not take up permanent space in the shop.

What are the main benefits of a mobile table saw workbench?

The biggest benefits are mobility, storage, better support around the saw, and a more complete workstation. Instead of using the saw on its own stand, you get a setup that is easier to work with, better organized, and more useful in a smaller workshop or garage.

Can I add more features to this table saw workbench later?

Yes, that is one of the nice things about this build. Because it is modular, you can upgrade or adjust parts later. You can add things like more drawers, T-tracks in the top, extra storage, or other features that fit the way you work.

This post DIY Mobile Table Saw Workbench (Step by Step with Pictures) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

DIY Table Saw Push Block: How to Build a Safe Push Block for Clean Cuts

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 22 Jan 2026 14:00:00 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

DIY Table Saw Push Block: How to Build a Safe Push Block for Clean Cuts

In this blog post I’m going to show you how to build a DIY push block for the table saw—one of those simple jigs that makes ripping much safer and more controlled. A good push block keeps your hands well away from the blade, gives you downward and straight-forward pressure instead of just poking from behind, and really helps on narrow rips and even round stock like dowels and poles. That extra control means less burning, less chance of kickback, and cleaner cuts compared to a simple push stick.

This version is built from Baltic birch plywood and MDF in a size of about 205 × 90 × 60 mm (roughly 8″ × 3½” × 2⅜”). The build includes a base with side stands, a comfortable handle, an adjustable center piece that rides in a T-track, and a detachable side support leg for extra stability. You can also add a rear stop block to push the workpiece from behind. And it’s even better if you build two—perfect for controlling longer pieces during a rip.

👉 If you want to see how this push block fits into a full jig setup, check out my Best Table Saw Jigs for Your Workshop—this build pairs really well with a good crosscut sled, thin strip jig, and spline jig.

Video: Watch the Build

Before we dive into the step-by-step photos, here’s the full build of the DIY table saw push block so you can see how the base, side stands, center piece, side support leg, and handle all come together on the bench and at the saw.

I appreciate every YouTube subscriber. It’s free and easy to subscribe to — Click Here To Subscribe. Thank you!

Video: Watch the Build
Tools and Materials
How a Push Block Makes Cuts Safer
Let’s Start Building!
Step 1: Building the Push Block Base Frame
Step 2: Attaching the Side Legs
Step 3: Building the T-Tracks on Top of the Base
Step 4: Making the Adjustable Center Leg
Step 5: Adding the Non-Slip Rubber Pad
Step 6: Building the Side Adjustable Stand
Step 7: Final Assembly – Putting Everything Together
Wrap-Up: Why This Push Block Is Worth Building
FAQs: DIY Table Saw Push Block

Tools and Materials

This DIY table saw push block is made mostly from Baltic birch plywood, MDF, and a few hardware pieces. Here’s what I used in my shop (some of these are affiliate links, which help support my work at no extra cost to you):

Materials & Hardware:

Painters Tape – link
Wood Glue – link
5 Min Epoxy – link
Wood Screws – link
Sandpaper Sheets – link
Double Sided Woodworking Tape – link
M6 Screw Knobs – link
Non-Slip Foam Rubber Mat
Baltic birch plywood (12 mm for base and structural parts)
MDF offcuts (for internal blocks and pads)
M6 Bolts, M6 Wingnuts, M6 Square Nut

Tools:

Table Saw – link
Hand Drill – link
Drill Press – link
Narex Chisels – link
Table Saw Blade – link
Japanese Dozuki Saw – link
Machinist Square – link
F-Clamps – link
Spring Clamps – link
T-track Clamps – link
Drill Bit Set – link
Straight Router Bit 6 mm – link

See all the Tools and Materials I use here.

📌 Ready to build it?
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DIY Table Saw Push Block — adjustable center leg, side stand, and non-slip base for safer ripping cuts.

How a Push Block Makes Table Saw Rips Safer and Cleaner

A push stick is better than nothing—but it mostly just pushes from the back. A push block, on the other hand, gives you downward and forward pressure at the same time, which changes everything when you’re ripping narrow strips or tricky stock. With a grippy base and heel, the block presses the workpiece down to the table and into the fence, which means less burning, less wandering, and a much lower chance of kickback.

Because your hand is on top of the block, not behind the blade, your fingers stay well away from the danger zone. The wider footprint also supports narrow pieces better than a thin stick, so they don’t chatter or tip as you move past the blade. The adjustable center piece and side support leg on this design let you tune the contact points to the width and shape of the workpiece—even for things like dowels or poles.

In my own shop I use this DIY push block side by side with a commercial one. If you prefer to buy instead of build, the push block I rely on the most is the Grr-Ripper—it’s still the best store-bought push block I’ve used. If you’re considering that route, check out my Grr-Ripper review and my article on the best table saw push blocks for a deeper comparison and ideas on when a premium push block is worth it.

Let’s Start Building!

This push block is built around a sturdy base frame with side stands that straddle the workpiece, so it feels stable as you push along the fence. In the center of the base, we’ll add two homemade T-tracks and a sliding center piece you can position exactly where you want the pressure. On one side, there’s a detachable side support leg, and on top, a shaped handle, allowing you to apply even pressure without straining your wrist.

On the underside, a non-slip foam rubber pad gives the block its grip. We’ll go step by step through:

Building the base frame and side stands
Routing the T-tracks and making the adjustable center piece
Adding the side support leg and anti-slip pad
Assembling all the parts

Once you have the first one done, making a second matching push block will be much easier.

How to Make a Push Block for Table Saw

Step 1: Building the Push Block Base Frame

I start by cutting the two base layers to size: both pieces are 190 × 90 mm, one from 12 mm plywood and the other from 9 mm plywood. I rip them to width on the table saw and then crosscut to final length using my table saw sled, so both pieces come out square and identical.

Then I glue the pieces together and additionally add a few screws from the side of the 9 mm plywood (which will be the bottom piece). Before moving on, I also carve two shallow hexagon recesses on the bottom side for the M6 bolt heads that will hold the handle later. It’s much easier to do this now while everything is still accessible. The bolt heads sit flush in the recesses so the base stays flat.

Note: Make sure all screw heads are flush or slightly below the surface so they don’t interfere with the rabbets or with the center leg.

Then I mark out the two rabbets on the bottom piece using my ruler marking gauge—one 12 mm wide, the other 6.5 mm. These will form the “legs” of the push block that straddle the workpiece. I cut the rabbets on the table saw, setting the blade height so the depth equals the full thickness of the 9 mm bottom layer. After the cuts, I clean up and lightly sand the rabbets.

Step 2: Attaching the Side Legs

With the rabbets cut and cleaned up, it’s time to add the side legs that give the push block its height and help it straddle the workpiece. I cut two plywood pieces to size. Each piece matches the length of the base so everything lines up nicely:

190 × 40 × 12 mm
190 × 40 × 6.5 mm

I apply just enough wood glue into the rabbets, then seat the plywood pieces into the grooves and clamp them in place. Once they’re aligned and clamped, I add a few screws from the sides of the stands into the base to reinforce the joint.

Again, all screw heads must sit flush or slightly below the surface, so they don’t catch on the table saw fence or interfere with the adjustable supporting side stand.

Tip: Before gluing the side stands in place, you can carve two hexagon recesses in the 12 mm leg for the M6 bolt heads that will later hold the side adjustable stand. Again, it’s much easier to do this now than after everything is assembled (you can see me do that in step 3).

Step 3: Building the T-Tracks on Top of the Base

Next, I add two T-tracks on the top of the push block base—one toward the front and one toward the back. These tracks let the central leg/pressure block slide and lock in place..

I start by marking the track layout on top of the base and then cut the grooves on the table saw using my sled. The tracks are:

One deeper central dado (about 10 mm deep)
Two shallower outer dados (about 3 mm deep each)

After cutting, I clean up the grooves and cut MDF strips to fit the outer dados. With just enough wood glue, I press the MDF strips into the outer slots.

Tip: Be careful with the glue here — if it gets into the central dado, it’s hard to remove later and can stop your T-track bolts from sliding smoothly. Screws can be used too.

Once the glue dries, I test the track with a square-nut setup to make sure it slides freely along the full length.

👉 Check out my DIY T-Tracks and T-Track Bolts guide, where I go step by step through building custom T-tracks for jigs and fixtures.

Step 4: Making the Adjustable Center Leg

The adjustable center leg is the part that actually pushes down on the workpiece and slides in the T-tracks so you can position it exactly where you need it.

I start by cutting all the pieces to size. The center leg is made from six small parts:

2 pieces that form the main leg
2 side pieces that connect the leg to the top
2 upper pieces that sit over the T-tracks

First, I drill the connecting holes in the upper pieces. These holes will later accept the M6 Wing bolts.

With the holes drilled, I glue up the stack: the leg pieces, side pieces, and top pieces all come together in a small “bridge” that can straddle the T-track and press down on the workpiece. I use a few screws for extra strength.

At this stage I don’t add the wing screws or nuts yet—those will go in during the final assembly. For now, the goal is to have a solid, adjustable center block that fits nicely over the tracks and is ready to be bolted down later.

Step 5: Adding the Non-Slip Rubber Pad

The non-slip rubber pad is what really lets the push block grab the workpiece instead of just sliding over it. The goal here is to create a solid, grippy contact between the jig and the workpiece so you can push it forward with confidence.

This part takes a bit of experimenting to find the right material. I’m using a rubber sheet from a local store that I cut into strips and glue to the bottom of the legs. Over time, the surface can lose some of its bite; when that happens, I just give it a light mist with spray adhesive, and the grip comes back nicely.

I cut all the rubber strips to size and use epoxy to glue them onto the bottom faces of the legs. I press everything firmly in place and let the epoxy fully cure before using the push block on the saw.

Step 6: Building the Side Adjustable Stand

The side-adjustable stand helps match the height of the workpiece, so the push block sits flat and stable while you cut. With it attached, the jig rests on both the main legs and the stand, which adds support on taller or narrower boards. If you don’t need it, you can simply unbolt it and set it aside.

I cut a horizontal base piece and a vertical piece, then route two vertical slots in the upright for height adjustment. The vertical piece is glued onto the horizontal base, and I add two small support blocks.

The finished side stand is attached to the 12 mm side leg of the push block with bolts and wing nuts passing through the slots. This lets you raise or lower the stand to match your stock and then lock it in place.

Step 7: Final Assembly – Putting Everything Together

With all the components ready, it’s time to assemble the push block and get it ready for the table saw.

First, I add the handle. It mounts on top of the base and is secured with bolts and wing nuts, so you can remove it and reuse it on other jigs if you want. If you’d like to see how I built this style of handle in detail, check out my article on how to build a table saw thin strip jig—the handle design comes straight from that build.

Next, I attach the side stand to the 12 mm side leg and fix the adjustable center leg to the T-tracks using M6 Wing bolts and square nuts.

Once everything is tightened down and adjusted to your typical stock height, the push block is finished and ready to use.

Wrap-Up: Why This Push Block Is Worth Building

A table saw push block is one of those shop upgrades that absolutely pays off every time you rip stock—better control, cleaner cuts, and your hands stay well away from the blade. This build is a bit more advanced than a simple block of wood, but in return you get an adjustable center leg, a detachable side stand, and a handle, so the block actually does what it should: holds the work down, against the fence, and moves it forward.

The one part I really recommend experimenting with is the bottom material. I’m using a non-slip rubber sheet from a local store, and it works well as long as it’s grippy—you can always refresh it with a light mist of spray adhesive when it starts to lose tack. You could also add a rear stop block later to push from the back of the workpiece if you want even more positive control.

Alongside this jig, I still use a store-bought push block, and the one I reach for most is the Grr-Ripper. If you’re deciding whether to build or buy, you can check out my Grr-Ripper review and my article on the best table saw push blocks to see how this DIY version compares.

👉 And if you’d like to keep improving your setup, take a look at my Best Table Saw Jigs for Your Workshop.

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Homemade Table Saw Push Block — a simple safety jig that keeps your hands away from the blade and improves control.

FAQs: DIY Table Saw Push Block

1. Why use a push block instead of just a push stick?

A push stick mainly pushes from behind, which can leave the workpiece unstable—especially on narrow rips. A push block gives you downward and forward pressure at the same time, holding the board flat to the table and tight against the fence. That means better control, less burning, less chance of kickback, and your hands stay farther away from the blade.

2. What size should a table saw push block be?

There’s no single “correct” size, but something around 200 mm long × 90 mm wide × 60 mm high (about 8″ × 3½” × 2⅜”) works well for most ripping tasks. It’s big enough to feel stable and keep your hand clear of the blade, but compact enough to maneuver comfortably over the table and past the fence.

3. What material should I use on the bottom for grip?

The most important thing is that the bottom material is non-slip and durable. A rubber sheet or foam rubber mat works great—anything that grips the wood instead of sliding. It’s also handy if you can refresh the grip with a bit of spray adhesive when it starts to wear down, rather than having to replace the pad every time.

4. Do I need one or two push blocks?

One push block is already a big improvement over a bare hand or a simple stick, but two push blocks are ideal for longer or narrower boards. With a pair, you can keep one ahead of the blade and one behind, maintaining steady pressure and control along the entire cut. This setup feels much safer and more stable on the table saw.

5. Can I use this push block on tools other than the table saw?

Yes, depending on its size and shape, you can often use a push block on a router table, jointer, or band saw as well. As long as the bottom is grippy and the block is shaped so it’s comfortable and safe to hold, it can help keep your hands away from blades and cutters on other machines too. Just make sure it gives you solid contact and doesn’t get too close to any cutters in use.

This post DIY Table Saw Push Block: How to Build a Safe Push Block for Clean Cuts first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

How to Build a Picture Frame Jig for the Table Saw (Perfect 45° Corners)

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 15 Jan 2026 14:00:00 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

How to Build a Picture Frame Jig for the Table Saw (Perfect 45° Corners)

Getting perfect 45° corners on picture frames sounds simple… until you glue everything up and see tiny gaps in the corners. Cutting one side a hair long, measuring from the wrong reference, or bumping your miter gauge can all throw the frame off. That’s why I built a dedicated picture frame jig for the table saw (miter sled) —a jig made specifically for matching miters.

In this build, I’ll show you how I made a full-size picture frame sled with two perpendicular fences (for short and long sides), an adjustable stop block, and a self-adhesive ruler for precise lengths. Once the stop block is set, you can cut frame parts over and over, and they’ll all come out the same size. Both fences have T-tracks, so you can slide the stop block, add hold-down clamps, or add other small accessories.

The jig is built from Baltic birch plywood and MDF, with an oak miter bar underneath that rides in the table saw’s miter slot. The base is about 350 × 700 mm (roughly 13 ¾” × 27 ½”), which gives plenty of support for mid-size/ larger frames. I also have a smaller miter add-on for my main sled, but that one is for quick 45° cuts—this picture frame jig is what I use when I want precise, measured frames.

👉 If you enjoy building accessories for your saw, have a look at my Best Table Saw Jigs for Your Workshop to see how this picture frame jig fits into the bigger jig setup.

Video: Watch the Build

Here’s the full build of the table saw picture frame jig so you can see exactly how the base, fences, stop block, and scale come together before we jump into the step-by-step photos.

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1. Video: Watch the Build
2. Tools and Materials
3. Why Build a Picture Frame Jig for the Table Saw?
4. Let’s Start Building!
  Step 1: Building the Picture Frame Jig Base
  Step 2: Making and Attaching the Fences
  Step 3: Making the Stop Block
  Step 4: Finishing the Picture Frame Jig — Scale and Hold-Down Clamp
5. A Quick Note on Ruler Placement and Rabbet Length
6. Setting Up the Picture Frame Jig (and Cutting Your First Frame)
7. Wrap-Up: Why I Like This Picture Frame Jig
8. FAQs: Picture Frame Jig for the Table Saw

Tools and Materials

This picture frame jig is built mostly from Baltic birch plywood, MDF, and a few hardware pieces.
Here’s what I used in my shop (some of these are affiliate links, which help support my work at no extra cost to you):

Tools:

Table Saw – link
Hand Drill – link
Drill Bit Set – link
Table Saw Blade – link
Japanese Ryoba Saw – link
Self-Adhesive Measuring Tape – link
Steel Ruler – link
Digital Protractor – link
Speed Square – link
Transparent Triangle – link
Machinist Square – link
Toggle Clamps – link
Strap Clamp – link
One Hand Clamps – link
T-track Clamps – link
Spring Clamps – link
Mini F-Clamps – link

Materials & Hardware

Wood Glue – link
Painters Tape – link
Sandpaper Sheets – link
Wood Screws – link
Baltic birch plywood (base and fences)
MDF offcuts (fence faces and stop block parts)
Oak strips (for the miter bar)
T-track extrusion or homemade T-track (for the fences)
Bolts, washers, and knobs/wing nuts (for the stop block and accessories)

All the tools I use: here

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How to Build a Picture Frame Jig for the Table Saw — step-by-step jig build for clean, repeatable 45° miters.

Why Build a Picture Frame Jig for the Table Saw?

You can cut miters with a miter gauge or miter saw, but a dedicated picture frame jig solves three big issues: accuracy, repeatability, and referencing from the rabbet.

For picture frames, the crucial dimension isn’t the outer size—it’s the rabbet that holds the picture, mat, or glass. With this jig, you can set the stop block based on the rabbet length, so you’re cutting to the dimension that actually matters. That’s what gives you frames where the artwork slips in snugly without gaps.

A picture frame jig also:

Cuts both mating miters on the same sled and setup, so they truly meet at 90°.
Provides a large, stable base that supports narrow frame stock during the cut.
Let’s you lock in an adjustable stop block so all short sides and long sides match.
Uses T-tracks in the fences for stop blocks, hold-down clamps, and other add-ons.

My smaller miter attachment is perfect for quick 45° cuts on small parts, but it doesn’t have a long fence, stop block, or scale. This dedicated picture frame jig does—which is why I use it whenever I’m making proper picture frames, sets of matching frames, or anything where tight, gap-free corners really matter.

Let’s Start Building!

This jig is essentially a compact crosscut sled tuned specifically for picture frames. The base is a Baltic birch plywood panel with an oak miter bar underneath that runs in the table saw’s miter slot. On top, we add two perpendicular fences—one for short sides, one for long sides—each with a T-track routed in for the stop block and optional clamps.

We’ll build:

The picture frame jig base
The fence assembly
The stop block
The self-adhesive scale ruler setup

Once everything is aligned and the 45° cuts are dialed in, you’ll have a jig that can cut both short and long frame parts accurately, reference directly from the rabbet, and produce repeatable, matching frame pieces every time.

How to Build a Picture Frame Jig for Table Saw

Step 1: Building the Picture Frame Jig Base

I start by cutting the base panel for the sled. I’m using 12 mm Baltic birch plywood and cut it to 350 × 700 mm (about 13 ¾” × 27 ½”) on my table saw sled so all edges are straight and square.

Next, I cut two oak runners that will ride in the table saw’s miter slots. I carefully sneak up on the width so each runner fits perfectly in the slot—no side-to-side play, but still able to slide smoothly. If needed, I lightly sand the edges.

To glue the runners to the base, I first need to mark their exact position. I place the plywood base on the saw table, roughly where I want it to sit, and lock the table saw fence. Using a carpenter’s square, I rotate the base so it sits at a 45° angle to the fence/blade—this is what gives the jig its picture-frame miter orientation. With the base held in this position, I mark where the runners will land under the base.

Then I flip the base over and glue on the first oak runner along the marked line. The second runner is made in more of a T-shape—wider at the bottom—to prevent the sled from tipping when you pull it far forward for longer frames. (When the frame stock sticks out, it shifts the weight, and that extra support keeps the base seated in the slots.)

Once the glue is dry, I test-fit the sled in the saw’s miter slots. If the runners feel a bit tight, I lightly sand the sides and test again until the sled slides smoothly from front to back without binding or rocking.

Step 2: Making and Attaching the Fences

With the base ready, I move on to the two fences that guide all the cuts. First, I cut the plywood fence pieces to size and glue them into thicker blanks. After the glue dries, I mark the layout for the T-track and cut the slots on the table saw.

The T-track is made from a deeper center slot and two shallower outer slots. I glue two MDF strips into the outer slots—together with the center groove, they form a simple T-track channel for the stop block and clamps.

Tip: Use just enough glue so it doesn’t squeeze into the middle slot. Dried glue in the track is hard to clean out later.

Once the fences are dry, I cut a short piece off the longer fence to use later as the stop block. Then I cut the ends of both the long fence and short fence at 45°, so their miters will meet at the cut line.

To position the fences, I mark the location of the long fence on the base using a ruler marking gauge, and glue it down. Then, using a square, I glue the short fence at a perfect 90° to the long one so their 45° ends meet.

Note: It’s fine to leave a tiny gap between the fence miters—you’ll cut through this area when you make the first kerf.

After the glue cures, I make the first saw cut through the jig, cutting through the base and fence miters and stopping about 2 cm past the fence.

Tip: Cover the cut line with painter’s tape before cutting to help reduce tear-out and keep the kerf edge clean.

Step 3: Making the Stop Block

For the stop block, I reuse the offcut from the longer fence. It already has a 45° end, which is perfect because it lets the frame piece register right up to the mitered corner. I simply flip the offcut upside down so the T-track groove now faces down toward the base.

On top of this offcut, I glue and screw a small plywood connector piece with a drilled hole through it. This hole is for the T-track bolt that runs in the fence. Once assembled, the bolt slides inside the fence T-track, and the block can be moved anywhere along the fence to set your exact frame length. Tighten the knob or wing nut, and the length is locked in.

You can build a second stop block in the same way for the other fence if you want separate stops for short and long frame sides.

Step 4: Finishing the Picture Frame Jig — Scale and Hold-Down Clamp

To finish the picture frame jig, I add two small upgrades that make it much easier to use: a self-adhesive ruler and a hold-down clamp.

First, I stick a self-adhesive measuring tape along the longer fence, starting from the saw kerf. This lets me read the exact frame length directly at the stop block, so I can set the inside (rabbet) dimension quickly and repeat it for multiple frames.

Then I add a hold-down clamp into the fence T-track. This one is optional, but it helps a lot in practice. The clamp locks the workpiece in place so you don’t have to hold it by hand while cutting. It’s mounted with a T-track bolt and knob, and you can move it anywhere along the fence—or swap it between the longer and shorter fences.

In the same way, you can add other accessories to the T-track later—extra stops, auxiliary blocks, or different styles of clamps.

A Quick Note on Ruler Placement and Rabbet Length

When you’re measuring picture frames, you don’t really care about the outside size of the frame—you care about the rabbet length, the space where the picture or mat actually sits. In practice, that means you should set your stop block to the visible opening / rabbet dimension, not just the full frame length. For example, if your picture is 300 × 200 mm, you want the distance from rabbet shoulder to rabbet shoulder to match that, not the outer edges of the molding. Otherwise, your picture might end up loose, too tight, or leave an unexpected border. That’s why the position of the self-adhesive ruler on the fence matters.

Note: In my build, I place the ruler in a specific spot so it already accounts for the offset between the outer frame edge and where the picture actually starts. My pictures don’t start right at the corners—they have a small white border/offset—so the zero point on the scale is set accordingly.

The idea is: once you understand your profile and rabbet offset, you can place the ruler so that when you read, say, “300 mm” at the stop block, you’re actually cutting the correct length for the rabbet / visible area, not just a random outside measurement.

Setting Up the Picture Frame Jig (and Cutting Your First Frame)

Setting the jig starts with the rabbet length, not the outside of the frame. Measure the size of the picture or mat and decide if you want a visible offset/border. That final inside dimension (picture size ± offset) is what you set on the scale and stop block, because that’s the length the rabbet needs to be.

Before cutting real stock, quickly dial in the 45°:

Make a test cut on scrap with the jig.
Fold two offcuts together so the miters meet.
If the corner is open inside or outside, make a tiny fence adjustment and recut until the joint closes cleanly at 90°.

To cut the frame pieces:

First miter: place the frame strip with the rabbet against the shorter fence and cut the first 45°.
Second miter + length: move the strip to the longer fence, push it against the stop block set to your rabbet length, and cut the second miter.

Repeat for all sides. For a square frame, use the same setting on all four pieces. For a rectangular frame, cut two pieces at the “short” setting and two at the “long” one.

For glue-up, add a bit of wood glue to each miter, pull the corners together, secure them with painter’s tape, and tighten everything with a strap clamp until the frame is square. If you want to reinforce and decorate the corners, you can add splines after the glue dries.

👉 For that, I like to use my table saw spline jig—perfect for strengthening picture frame miters with contrasting splines.

Wrap-Up: Why I Like This Picture Frame Jig

For me, this picture frame jig turns what used to be a slightly stressful operation into a simple, repeatable routine. Instead of fussing with a miter gauge and tape measure for every piece, I can set the angle once, dial in the rabbet length on the stop block, and just cut. If I want two or three frames in the same size, they all come out identical, and the corners actually close without those annoying little gaps.

The nice thing is that it’s not limited to frames. At the end of the day, this is a 45° miter sled with good support and a T-track system—so it works just as well for small boxes, molding, trim, and any project where you want clean, repeatable miters. The T-track gives you room to grow: more stops, different clamps, and little add-ons you’ll come up with over time as you use it.

If you enjoyed this build and want to keep upgrading your saw, check out my Best Table Saw Jigs for Your Workshop—this picture frame jig is just one piece of a whole setup that makes cutting safer, more accurate, and honestly a lot more fun.

📌 Ready to build it?
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DIY Picture Frame Jig for Table Saw — accurate miters with a stop block, T-track, and built-in measuring scale.

FAQs: Picture Frame Jig for the Table Saw

1. Do I really need a picture frame jig, or is a miter gauge enough?

You can cut picture frame miters with a standard miter gauge, but it’s harder to get repeatable, gap-free corners, especially when making more than one frame. A dedicated picture frame jig gives you a fixed 45° setup, a stop block for consistent lengths, and better support for narrow frame stock. That makes it easier to get clean joints and matching parts with less fiddling.

2. Can I use this jig for other projects besides picture frames?

Yes. At its core, this is a 45° miter sled, so it’s useful anytime you need consistent miters: small boxes, trim pieces, molding, decorative strips, or mitered frames for cabinet doors. The T-tracks and adjustable stop block make it handy wherever you want repeatable angled cuts with good workpiece support.

3. How accurate does the 45° angle need to be?

For picture frames, small errors add up quickly—if each miter is off by even half a degree, the corners won’t close. That’s why it’s worth taking a few minutes to dial it in with test cuts on scrap. Cut two miters, fold them together, and check if the corner is open inside or outside. A tiny tweak to the fence and another test cut usually gets you to a clean, tight 90°.

4. What size frames can I make with this jig?

That depends mostly on your base size and how far the frame pieces can extend safely on the sled. With a base around 350 × 700 mm (about 13 ¾” × 27 ½”), you can comfortably make small to medium frames for photos, prints, and posters. Longer frames are possible as long as the workpiece is still well supported and the sled doesn’t tip—this is where a second, “T-shaped” runner really helps.

5. Is the hold-down clamp necessary, or can I just hold the work by hand?

You can hold the workpiece by hand if you’re careful and keep your fingers clear of the blade, but a hold-down clamp is much safer and more consistent. It keeps the frame stock pressed firmly against the fence and base, which reduces chatter and shifting during the cut. Because the clamp rides in the T-track, you can move it where you need it or use it on either fence.

This post How to Build a Picture Frame Jig for the Table Saw (Perfect 45° Corners) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

How to Build a Table Saw Thin Strip Jig (Safe, Repeatable Thin Rips)

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 08 Jan 2026 14:00:00 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

How to Build a Table Saw Thin Strip Jig (Safe, Repeatable Thin Rips)

Cutting really thin strips on the table saw looks simple, but in reality it’s often inconsistent and a bit unsafe—especially when you keep sneaking the fence closer to the blade and pushing narrow pieces by hand. Strips vary in width, burning shows up, and your fingers feel way too close.

That’s why I built this table saw thin strip jig. It’s a small, easy-to-make jig that costs almost nothing and lets you set the dimension once, then cut uniform thin strips over and over without touching the fence. A hold-down clamp keeps the workpiece pressed to the base, a back stopper supports it from behind, and a handle lets you guide the whole jig smoothly along the fence with your hands well away from the blade.

All the accessories are detachable and adjustable. The hold-down and back stopper ride in a homemade T-track and are fixed with DIY T-track bolts, so you can set them exactly where you need them. The jig handles thin strips from just a few millimetres (about 1/16″–1/8″) up to a few centimetres (around 3/4″–1″). The base is built mainly from 12 mm Baltic birch plywood and MDF, and measures about 33 × 10 × 3.6 cm (roughly 13″ × 4″ × 1 7/16″).

👉 Once you’ve built this jig, check out my Best Table Saw Jigs for Your Workshop to see how it fits into a full jig setup around the saw.

Video: Watch the Build

Before we dive into the step-by-step photos, here’s the full build of the table saw thin strip jig so you can see how all the parts fit and work together in real time.

I appreciate every YouTube subscriber. It’s free and easy to subscribe to — Click Here To Subscribe. Thank you!

1. Video: Watch the Build
2. Tools and Materials
3. Why Use a Thin Strip Jig on the Table Saw?
4. Let’s Start Building!
  Step 1: Building the Thin Strip Jig Base
  Step 2: Making the Thin Strip Jig Handle
  Step 3: Making the Hold-Down Clamp
  Step 4: Making the Back Stopper
5. Setting Up and Using the Thin Strip Jig
6. Wrap-Up: A Small Jig with a Lot of Use
7. FAQs: Table Saw Thin Strip Jig

Tools and Materials

You can build this table saw thin strip jig mostly from plywood, MDF, and a few basic hardware pieces.
Here’s what I used in my shop:

Tools:

Table Saw – link
Trim Router – link
Angle Grinder – link
Hand Drill – link
Narex Chisels – link
Push Block – link
Precision Miter Gauge – link
Drill Bit Set – link
Mini Clamps – link
F-Clamps – link
Spring Clamps – link
Table Saw Blade – link
Straight Router Bit – link
T-Track Clamps – link

Materials and Hardware:

Wood Screws – link
Double-Sided Woodworking Tape – link
Sandpaper Sheets – link
Wood Glue – link
T-track bolts – (DIY from M6 hardware and wooden heads)
12 mm plywood (Baltic birch) – for base, handle, and stops
MDF offcuts – for the T-track and hold-down parts
M6 bolts and M6 wing nuts – for adjustable components

Check all the tools and materials I use here.

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How to Build a Table Saw Thin Strip Jig — step-by-step jig build for safe, repeatable thin rips.

Why Use a Thin Strip Jig on the Table Saw?

A thin strip jig solves two big problems at once: safety and consistency.

Without a jig, cutting thin strips often means trapping the offcut between the blade and the fence, or standing a bit too close while trying to push a narrow piece past the blade. That’s where burning, pinching, and scary moments usually happen. It also means that every time you want another strip, you’re back to nudging the fence, checking with calipers, and hoping the next cut matches the last one.

With a thin strip jig:

The workpiece is held down and supported by the hold-down and back stopper.
Your hands stay on the handle, away from the blade.
The width of the strip is set by the jig, not by how carefully you adjusted the fence that day.
Once the jig is dialed in, you can run strip after strip at exactly the same thickness.

For anything that needs lots of narrow pieces—edge banding, inlay strips, small frame parts, spacers, slats—this jig turns a stressful operation into a simple, repeatable routine.

Let’s Start Building!

In the build, we’ll break the jig into a few simple parts and assemble them step by step. It’s made from plywood, MDF, a few M6 bolts, wing nuts, and homemade T-track bolts, so it’s a great way to use up offcuts.

Here’s what we’ll cover:

Building the thin strip jig base – cutting the blank, adding the T-track, and sizing it for your saw.
Making the thin strip jig handle – a comfortable handle you can grip firmly while pushing along the fence.
Making the thin strip jig hold-down clamp – an adjustable clamp that keeps the workpiece pressed safely to the base.
Making the thin strip jig back stopper – a solid support that gives the workpiece something to register against.
Assembling the table saw thin strip jig – putting all the parts together, adding the hardware, and dialing in the first setup.

Once the jig is assembled, we’ll set it on the fence and start cutting safe, repeatable thin rips on the table saw.

How to Build a Thin Strip Jig for Table Saw

Step 1: Building the Thin Strip Jig Base

I start by cutting all the base pieces to size. The jig base is made from three plywood strips, each measuring 33 × 10 cm (about 13″ × 4″). I rip them to width on the table saw and then use my table saw sled for the crosscuts so all pieces end up the same length and dead square.

Next, I take one of the three pieces and lay out the lines for the T-track. Using my router multipurpose jig, I route the dadoes that will form the sides of the track. To create the actual T-track, I glue two MDF strips into the side dadoes and clamp them in place until the glue dries.

Tip: Try to keep glue squeeze-out out of the central channel—if it runs into the middle, it’s quite annoying to clean later. You can optionally add a few screws for extra strength (make sure they’re flush).

Once the glue is dry, I run the assembled base over the table saw again, taking a very light pass on each side to clean and straighten the edges. Finally, I test the T-track with one of my DIY T-track bolts to make sure it slides smoothly without binding.

Step 2: Making the Thin Strip Jig Handle

For the handle, I start by cutting two plywood pieces and gluing them together. This blank defines the handle thickness at about 24 mm (roughly 15/16″). Once the glue dries, I cut one end of the blank at a slight angle—so when the handle is mounted on the jig, it leans outwards slightly instead of standing straight up. That small tilt makes the grip much more natural.

With the blank cut to length, I shape the handle. You can round over the edges, soften the corners, and slightly curve the profile—whatever feels best in your hand. After shaping, I glue the handle onto a thin plywood base (about 6.5 mm / 1/4″ thick) and add a screw from the bottom for extra strength.

This plywood base is what actually mounts to the jig. It sits over the T-track and is secured with T-track bolts and wing nuts, so you can slide the handle forward or backward as needed and remove it easily for storage or adjustments.

Step 3: Making the Hold-Down Clamp

The hold-down clamp is what keeps the workpiece pressed firmly to the base, so your hands can stay safely on the handle. I start by cutting all the plywood and MDF pieces to size (dimensions from the materials/cut list).

The main vertical piece is cut from plywood. In this part, I carve a hexagon recess to capture a bolt head—this becomes the backbone of the clamp. With the bolt locked into that hexagon and a wing nut on top, the hold-down can move up and down so you can adjust it to different workpiece thicknesses.

The actual clamping face that presses on the workpiece is made from a mix of plywood and thinner MDF. It attaches to the vertical piece and slides up and down along it. That way, you can quickly dial in just enough pressure to hold the strip.

The lower support piece—the one that attaches directly to the jig base—is also made from plywood. Both this base piece and the movable vertical piece get a slot routed through them using my multipurpose router jig. That slot lets the clamp slide along the T-track on the jig base so you can position it exactly where you need it relative to the blade and the fence.

Step 4: Making the Back Stopper

The back stopper gives the workpiece something solid to register against. It’s made from two plywood pieces joined at 90°.

The horizontal piece sits over the T-track and is what attaches to the jig base. The vertical piece sits behind the jig base and supports the workpiece from the back. I joined these two pieces together at a right angle using two screws.

The whole back stopper assembly attaches to the T-track with a bolt and wing nut, so you can slide it sideways to set the exact strip width—from just a few millimetres up to a few centimetres.

This is what the finished thin strip jig looks like:

Setting Up and Using the Thin Strip Jig

With this jig, you can make repeatable cuts that produce uniform thin strips without constantly touching the fence. The idea is simple: the distance between the blade and the jig defines your strip width, and everything else just keeps the workpiece stable and your hands safe.

1. Set the Strip Width

First, you set the width of the strip you want to cut:

Adjust the table saw fence to roughly where you want it.
Place the thin strip jig against the fence.
Measure the space between the blade and the face of the jig.
Fine-tune the fence until this gap matches your desired strip width.
Lock the fence in position—this stays fixed while you cut all your strips.

Once the fence is locked, you don’t move it again. The jig and back stopper define exactly how wide each thin strip will be.

2. Adjust the Back Stopper and Hold-Down Clamp

Before cutting, there are two main components to set up on the jig:

Set the back stopper
- Slide the back stopper along the T-track so it supports the strip you are cutting,
  but doesn’t interfere with the saw blade.
- Tighten the bolt and wing nut to lock it in place.
Adjust the hold-down clamp
- Insert your workpiece into the jig in its cutting position.
- Slide the hold-down clamp down until it just touches the top of the workpiece.
- Tighten the wing nut so it applies a constant downward pressure during the cut.

This setup keeps the workpiece pressed to the base and supported from behind, which helps prevent chatter, shifting, and kickback.

3. Make the Cuts

Now you’re ready to start cutting thin strips:

Place your workpiece against the back stopper and under the hold-down clamp.
Start the saw and slowly slide the jig along the fence, letting the blade remove a thin strip between the jig and the blade.
For smaller pieces, use a push stick on the opposite side to help manage the offcut safely.
After each cut, slide the board back against the back stopper and repeat.

Because the fence and jig stay in the same position, every pass gives you thin strips of exactly the same width.

Wrap-Up: A Small Jig with a Lot of Use

Thin strips show up all over the workshop—inlays, edge banding, shims, spacers, frame parts, slats, trim pieces… I didn’t really appreciate how often I needed them until I started making more detailed projects. Before this jig, cutting thin strips always felt like one of those “hope it goes well” operations.

The jig is quick to make, doesn’t use much material, and once it’s built, the setup is really fast: I set the strip width once, adjust the back stopper and hold-down clamp, and then just feed boards through. The adjustability means I can use it with different stock thicknesses and cut anything from tiny inlay strips to wider slats—all while keeping my hands on the handle and away from the blade.

👉 If you enjoyed this build and want to upgrade your saw even more, check out my Best Table Saw Jigs for Your Workshop—this thin strip jig fits perfectly alongside sleds, crosscut jigs, and other helpers that make table saw work safer and more accurate.

📌 Ready to build it?
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DIY Table Saw Thin Strip Jig — adjustable jig for cutting uniform thin strips on the table saw.

FAQs: Table Saw Thin Strip Jig

1. Is a thin strip jig safer than cutting thin strips against the fence?

Yes, in my experience it’s much safer. With a thin strip jig, the workpiece is held down and supported from behind, and your hands stay on the handle instead of near the blade. You’re not trapping a thin offcut between the blade and fence, which is where burning and kickback usually happen.

2. How thin can I safely cut strips with this jig?

It depends on your saw and blade, but with a good setup you can cut strips down to just a few millimetres (around 1/16″–1/8″). The key is to keep the hold-down clamp adjusted properly and use a sharp, clean blade. For anything extremely thin, take your time and don’t force the cut.

3. What blade should I use for cutting thin strips?

I get the best results with a sharp, fine-tooth blade (for example, a combination or crosscut blade with more teeth). A clean, sharp blade reduces burning and tear-out on very narrow pieces. Whatever blade you use, make sure it’s properly aligned and not dull—that makes a big difference.

4. Can I use this thin strip jig on different board thicknesses?

Yes, that’s the idea. The jig is adjustable: you can slide the hold-down clamp up or down to match the thickness of your workpiece, and move the back stopper along the T-track to set different strip widths. That way you can use the same jig for everything from thin stock and inlay pieces to thicker boards.

This post How to Build a Table Saw Thin Strip Jig (Safe, Repeatable Thin Rips) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

DIY Hexagon Jig for Table Saw (Make Perfect Hexagons Easily)

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 23 Oct 2025 14:00:00 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

DIY Hexagon Jig for Table Saw (Make Perfect Hexagons Easily)

I’m a big fan of modular jigs—simple add-ons that expand what your tools can do without taking up extra space. This hexagon jig is exactly that. It’s an attachment for my table saw sled that lets me cut perfect, repeatable hexagons with ease.

I built it when I needed a fast, accurate way to make geometric pieces for a few projects. Instead of building a separate jig, I designed this one to bolt right onto my existing sled. When I need it, I mount it; when I’m done, I remove it and store it flat.

The back fence is fixed at 120° to the blade, which keeps every cut precise and consistent. It’s compact, quick to set up, and adds a ton of versatility to the sled system. If you haven’t built your sled yet, start with my guide on How to Make a Table Saw Sled—this jig builds directly on top of it.

Video – How to Make a Hexagon Jig for Table Saw

Here’s a quick video showing how I built this hexagon jig add-on and how it works on the table saw. You’ll see the setup, the angle alignment, and a few test cuts to get those perfect hexagons.

👉 Watch the full build on YouTube and don’t forget to subscribe for more DIY jigs and workshop projects.

Video
Table Saw Hexagon Jig Plans
Materials and Tools
What Is a Hexagon Jig and Why Build One?
Let’s Start Building!
- Step 1: Cut the Blanks for the Hexagon Fence (T-Track)
- Step 2: Cut Dados and Assemble the T-Track Fence
- Step 3: Mount the Fence to the Table Saw Sled
- Step 4: Add the Stop and Hold-Down Clamps
How to Cut a Hexagon with a Hexagon Jig
Wrap-Up: A Simple, Accurate, and Reusable Add-On
FAQs

*Safety is your responsibility. Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first.

Table Saw Hexagon Jig Plans

Download the Table Saw Hexagon Jig Plans here

Download plans here

Materials and Tools

Before you start, make sure you have everything ready. The jig doesn’t require much material — just a few sheet pieces, some hardware, and basic tools you probably already have in your shop.

Wood / Sheet Goods

12 mm Plywood
MDF

Hardware

M6 Bolts and M6 Wingnuts
Wood Screws – link

Core Tools

Table Saw – link
Precision Miter Gauge – link
Trim Router – link
Hand Drill – link
Orbit Sander – link
Table Saw Blade – link

🛠 Check all the tools I use here.

Measuring & Setup

Machinist Square – link
Digital Angle Gauge – link
Speed Square – link

Clamping & Holding

Toggle Clamps – link
Mini Clamps – link
Spring Clamps – link
One-Hand Clamps – link
Push Block – link

Bits, Abrasives & Consumables

Straight Router Bit – link
Drill Bit Set – link
Sanding Discs – link
Sandpaper Sheets – link
Wood Glue – link
Silicon Glue Brush – link
Double-Sided Woodworking Tape – link

💡 Tip: I recommend checking your sled’s fence height before cutting the jig pieces — matching the height keeps everything aligned and makes the cuts cleaner.

Some of the links above are affiliate links. If you buy through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

📌 Pin This for Later
Save this project for later so you can add it to your own modular jig system.

What Is a Hexagon Jig and Why Build One?

A hexagon jig is a simple table saw accessory designed to cut perfect, repeatable hexagons at 120° angles. It ensures all six sides are identical and symmetrical without measuring or guessing each cut. If you often make geometric pieces, cutting boards, or decorative panels, this jig will save you time and improve precision.

Unlike standalone versions, this one mounts directly to your table saw sled, which makes it compact, modular, and easy to remove when not in use. It’s part of a larger sled system I use for many jigs in my shop.

Let's start building!

This jig works on a simple idea — the back fence is set at 120° to the saw blade, allowing you to cut perfect, repeatable hexagons just by rotating the workpiece and making six identical cuts.

It’s built from Baltic birch plywood, which gives the jig strength and stability, and features homemade T-tracks made from MDF. The entire setup attaches directly to your table saw sled with a single bolt and a pair of wing nuts. The height matches the sled fence, so the workpiece glides smoothly through each pass. When you’re done, just loosen the bolts and store it flat — it takes almost no space.

The key here is accuracy. Spend a few minutes setting the fence to a precise 120° using a digital angle gauge or machinist square, and you’ll get clean, consistent results every time.

How To Make a Hexagon Jig for Table Saw

Step 1: Prepare the Wood for the Hexagon Fence

Rip the main fence body from Baltic birch plywood to 450 × 55 × 12 mm. This strip will later receive dados that capture two MDF rails, forming your homemade T-track (for stops, hold-downs, and other accessories). For now, you’re just prepping blanks—no assembly yet.

Using the table saw sled, cut two narrow MDF strips that will become the T-track rails. Keep their widths consistent; it’s fine to leave them slightly oversized for now—we’ll sneak up on the final sliding fit after the dados are cut in the plywood.

💡 Pro tip: Mark a reference edge/face on the plywood body and both MDF rails. Keep those references against the fence for every cut—this preserves parallelism and makes the later dado fit-up far more predictable.

Step 2: Cut Dados and Assemble the T-Track Fence

Next, it’s time to turn the plywood blank into a working T-track fence. Start by using a marking gauge to mark the layout lines for three dados along the plywood strip. These will hold the MDF rails that form the sides of the track.

I cut all the dados with my multipurpose router jig — it’s quick, precise, and keeps the cuts perfectly parallel. Once the dados are done, lightly sand the grooves and clean up the ends with a chisel to remove the material the router couldn’t reach.

Test the fit with the MDF strips before gluing. The dado width should match the thickness of your MDF so everything stays flush. When satisfied with the fit, add a thin layer of glue inside the dados and insert the strips. Avoid using too much glue — if it squeezes into the track, it’s a pain to clean later. You can also add a few screws for extra strength if you like.

Drill a 6 mm hole through the center at one end of the track — this will later be used to attach the jig to the table saw sled. On the other end, bevel the edge closest to the blade to help remove sawdust while cutting. Then, at the far end of the fence, mark and cut a 120° angle on the table saw — this is the reference edge that will align with the sled fence.

💡 Tip: Don’t throw away the 120° cutoff piece — you’ll need it later when setting up the jig for your first hexagon cuts.

This is the same DIY T-track system I use in many of my builds — simple to make, strong, and fully compatible across multiple jigs. You can check out my step-by-step guide on How to Make a DIY T-Track for Woodworking if you’d like to add this setup to your own shop.

Step 3: Mount the Fence to the Table Saw Sled

With the T-track fence complete, it’s time to mount it onto the table saw sled. Start by aligning the 120° cut edge of the fence with the sled’s fence. This angle needs to be precise, so check that there’s a true 120° between the jig fence and the saw blade using a digital angle gauge.

Once aligned, temporarily fix the fence in place. I use a few plywood cutouts and double-sided tape to hold everything steady while I mark and drill. With the fence secured, extend the existing 6 mm hole through the sled base — this will serve as the mounting point.

Next, flip the sled upside down. Using a chisel, carve a hexagon recess around the drilled hole to fit the bolt head. The recess needs to be deep enough for the bolt head to sit flush or slightly below the sled’s surface. This ensures the sled slides smoothly across the table without obstruction.

After carving, insert the bolt from the bottom, position the fence on top, and secure it using a wing nut. Check the alignment one more time to confirm the 120° setup is still spot-on.

💡 Tip: Take your time with the alignment. Small errors at this stage will multiply across all six cuts when forming the hexagon.

Step 4: Add the Stop and Hold-Down Clamps

With the fence mounted and aligned, it’s time to add the accessories that make the jig truly functional — the stop block and the hold-down clamps. These are mounted directly into the homemade T-track, which allows for quick adjustment and reuse across other jigs in the workshop.

Install the hold-down clamps first. They’ll keep each workpiece firmly in position during cutting and prevent any movement. I’m using shop-made clamps, secured with homemade T-track bolts, standard bolts, and wing nuts — the same system I use across all my jigs.
Next, attach the stop block. Mine is made from plywood and lets me set the workpiece position for repeatable cuts of the same length. Just slide it to the desired spot, tighten it down, and you’re good to go.

Once both accessories are mounted, secure the outer end of the hexagon fence to the table saw’s fence. I use another pair of T-track bolts, a thin plywood strip, and wing nuts to lock it firmly in place. When everything is tightened, the jig sits solid and ready to cut.

💡 Tip: Keeping all your T-tracks the same size means your homemade bolts, clamps, and stops can be reused across different jigs — a huge time saver when switching setups.

How to Cut a Hexagon with a Hexagon Jig

Now that the jig is ready, here’s how to use it to cut clean, even hexagons on your table saw. The process is quick and repeatable once you have everything set.

🔧 Setup

Mount the jig to your table saw sled and secure it with the bolt and wing nut.
Insert the hold-down clamps into the T-track to keep your workpiece firmly in place.
Add the stop block into the same track and set the desired hexagon size. Tighten it down with a wing nut.
Take the 120° cutoff piece you saved earlier and place it between the stop block and your workpiece. This acts as a support wedge, ensuring perfect alignment.

🪚 Cutting the Hexagon

Make the first cut — align the edge of your board with the fence and make a clean pass. This defines your first 120° edge.
Rotate the workpiece to the next side, aligning it against the stop block and the cutoff wedge, and make the next cut.
Repeat the rotation and cutting process until all six sides are cut. The result is a perfectly symmetrical hexagon with equal facets.

⚠️ Safety note: Always use your hold-down clamp when cutting small pieces. Keep your hands well away from the blade and use push blocks whenever possible.

💡 Pro tip: Create a few custom stop blocks sized for different hexagon patterns — one for standard hexagons, others for irregular shapes or unique layouts.

Wrap-Up: A Simple, Accurate, and Reusable Add-On

This hexagon jig is one of those small but powerful add-ons that make workshop life easier. It’s quick to build, mounts in minutes, and when you’re done, it stores flat and out of the way. All its components — the stop blocks, hold-down clamps, and T-track bolts — fit right into my modular system, so they can be reused with other jigs and setups around the shop.

What I like most is its simplicity and reusability. Everything fits together cleanly, and because the alignment is adjustable, hitting those perfect 120° angles is quite achievable even if your setup isn’t 100% precise at first. The more accurate you are during the build, the better — but there’s still room to fine-tune later.

Of course, there are limits — this add-on isn’t meant for very large hexagons, since the size depends on your table saw sled. But for small to mid-sized projects, it’s a compact, reliable jig that produces clean, consistent results every time.

📘 Plans coming soon! I’ll be sharing downloadable plans for this jig along with my other modular table saw add-ons. Until then, you can check out all my current free woodworking plans and start building your own workshop jigs today.

FAQs

What angle do you need to cut a hexagon on the table saw?

A hexagon requires 120° between adjacent faces. On this jig, the back fence is set at 120° to the blade, so you simply rotate the workpiece and make six identical cuts.

Do I need a table saw sled for this hexagon jig?

Yes. This jig is designed as an add-on for a table saw sled. The sled gives you stability, accuracy, and a safer workflow. Build the sled first, then mount the jig on top.

What materials should I use for the jig?

I build the fence from Baltic birch plywood and the tracks from MDF (my homemade T-track system). Hardware is simple: M6 bolt + wing nut for mounting, plus T-track bolts for the stop and hold-downs.

How big of a hexagon can I cut with this jig?

Size is limited by your sled capacity. For very large hexagons, a standalone jig or different approach is better. For small to mid-sized parts, this add-on is ideal.

How do I keep the cuts accurate and repeatable?

Take a few minutes to dial the fence to a true 120° with a digital angle gauge or machinist square. Use the saved 120° cutoff as a wedge against the stop, and clamp the workpiece with hold-downs. Make a light test cut and fine-tune if needed.

Is the system reusable with other jigs?

Yes. I keep all my homemade T-tracks the same size, so T-track bolts, stops, and hold-downs move between jigs—fast setup, less clutter, and consistent results.

This post DIY Hexagon Jig for Table Saw (Make Perfect Hexagons Easily) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

Best Table Saw Jigs for Your Workshop (And Why You Need Them)

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 21 Aug 2025 07:00:00 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

Best Table Saw Jigs for Your Workshop (And Why You Need Them)

If you’re using a table saw regularly, having a few solid jigs can completely transform your workflow. Whether you’re cutting boards to size, making angled frames, or trying to get perfect repetitive cuts, these jigs will help you work faster, safer, and more accurately.

Over the years, I’ve built and tested tens of table saw jigs. Some were simple, others more complex—but a handful of them stuck with me and became part of almost every project. In this post, I’m sharing the jigs I use the most in my workshop and why I think every woodworker should build them.

Most of them I’ve built more than once and even turned into full plans, so others could easily recreate them (see below).

These are the jigs that help me go from rough lumber to clean, precise parts with confidence. Even if you’re just getting started, you’ll find something here that’s simple to build and worth keeping on your table saw setup.

👉 Link “cutting boards” (if mentioned later) to Best Jigs for Making Cutting Boards (And How to Use Them)

What Makes a Great Table Saw Jig?
1. Jig #1 – Crosscut Sled
2. Jig #2 – Table Saw Spline Jig
3. Jig #3 – Miter Sled
4. Jig #4 – Thin Strip Jig
5. Jig #5 – Tapering Jig
6. Jig #7 – Tenoning Jig
7. Jig #6 – Table Saw Circle Jig
Comparison Table: At-a-Glance Uses
Final Thoughts (Personal Tips + Experience)
FAQ

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1. What Makes a Great Table Saw Jig?

A good table saw jig should do three things: make your cuts more accurate, improve safety, and save you time. If it doesn’t do at least one of these, it’s probably not worth having on your bench.

The best jigs are the ones that:

Are easy to set up and align
Give you clean, repeatable results
Work with the type of projects you do most often
Last through repeated use (or can be easily rebuilt when needed)

Most importantly, great jigs remove the guesswork—so you can focus more on building and less on measuring, adjusting, and redoing cuts.

I’ve chosen the jigs in this list based on how useful they’ve been in real projects, especially for tasks like cutting boards, frames, boxes, and joinery. And the best part? You can build them all yourself using materials you likely already have.

👉 Best Materials for Woodworking Jigs (Beginner’s Guide)

2. Crosscut Sled

A crosscut sled is one of the most useful jigs you can build for your table saw. It makes crosscuts more accurate, safer, and repeatable—especially on small or wide pieces that would otherwise be tricky to control against the miter gauge.

If you’re still using the stock miter gauge that came with your saw, you’ll immediately notice the upgrade once you start using a sled. It provides better support, prevents tear-out, and keeps your hands farther from the blade.

Why it’s useful

Improves cut accuracy for 90° crosscuts
Increases safety by offering better support and hand distance
Great for cutting parts to final length and squaring up ends
Especially helpful for batch cutting identical pieces
Can be used as a base platform for other jig attachments

My setup
My sled is built entirely from Baltic birch plywood, with hardwood runners for smooth movement in the miter slots. What makes it extra versatile is the integrated DIY T-track, made from a combination of Baltic birch and MDF. This T-track isn’t just for stop blocks and other saw sled accessories—it’s actually the base for several other jigs I’ve built.

For example, my table saw spline jig is designed as an add-on that slides directly into the T-track on this sled. This way, I don’t need to build an entirely new platform—just swap or attach jigs as needed. It’s all sized to fit my DeWalt DWE7491RS table saw and has become one of the jigs I rely on the most, especially for building cutting boards, boxes, and projects that need square, clean ends.

3. Table Saw Spline Jig

A spline jig lets you reinforce miter joints while adding a decorative element to your work. It’s perfect for picture frames, small boxes, and anything with 45° corners that need a little extra strength and visual interest.

The jig cradles the corner of your workpiece at a perfect angle, allowing you to cut spline slots safely and consistently on the table saw.

Why it’s useful

Reinforces weak miter joints (especially in boxes and frames)
Adds a nice design element using contrasting wood splines
Helps you achieve perfect alignment and depth every time
Works best when paired with a crosscut sled

My setup
My spline jig is built entirely from Baltic birch plywood, including the adjustable stoppers. Instead of acting as a standalone jig, it’s designed to be a modular add-on to my crosscut sled. The base of the jig mounts directly into the T-track built into the sled, allowing it to sit securely and align perfectly every time.

This modular setup makes it incredibly fast to install or remove, and it means I don’t have to build a whole separate jig. I use it mainly for box joints, gift projects, and whenever I want to strengthen or decorate a mitered frame.

4. Miter Sled (Picture Frame Jig)

Cutting precise 45° angles is essential for making frames, trim, and clean corner joints—and that’s where a dedicated miter sled shines. Unlike a miter gauge, which can be tricky to dial in and unstable on longer pieces, a sled provides full support and consistently accurate results.

In my workshop, I’ve built two versions of this jig I often use—each for a specific type of project.

Why it’s useful

Makes clean and precise 45° cuts
Safer and more stable than a miter gauge
Perfect for making picture frames, boxes, or decorative trim
Allows for batch cutting when paired with a stop block

My setup
The first version is a compact add-on that mounts directly to the T-track on my crosscut sled. It’s made from Baltic birch plywood and built specifically for smaller workpieces, like short trim or picture frame parts. Because it’s lightweight and easy to attach, I can quickly mount or remove it depending on the project.

The second version is a standalone miter sled that runs in the table saw’s miter slots. It’s better suited for longer pieces of wood, such as full-length frame parts. This one is also built from Baltic birch plywood, but the runners are made from oak hardwood. It includes a repeatable stop block, mounted in a DIY T-track made from Baltic birch and MDF. That stop makes it easy to batch out identical angled cuts without remeasuring.

5. Thin Strip Jig

If you’ve ever tried cutting thin strips on a table saw using just the rip fence, you know how risky and inconsistent it can be. A thin strip jig solves that problem by letting you cut repeatable, uniform strips without trapping the piece between the blade and the fence—which is both safer and more accurate.

This jig is great for inlays, edge banding, box sides, or any time you need lots of thin, consistent pieces.

Why it’s useful

Allows safe and accurate cutting of thin strips
Reduces risk of kickback by eliminating blade/fence trapping
Provides excellent repeatability
Works with nearly any table saw

My setup
My thin strip jig is made from layered Baltic birch plywood, and it rides along the table saw fence (not in the miter slot). On top, there’s a custom T-track built from birch plywood and MDF, which holds two key accessories:

A push handle for guiding the jig smoothly
A hold-down/push-down arm to keep the cut strip pressed firmly in place

There’s also a small adjustable backstop at the rear of the jig that lightly presses the thin strip forward once it’s cut. That helps prevent burning or pinching against the blade and lets me keep the work moving safely and efficiently.

This jig works with any table saw setup and is a must-have when you’re batching out strips for small boxes, detailed trim, or laminated panels.

6. Tapering Jig

A tapering jig lets you safely and accurately cut angled edges on long boards—whether you’re shaping furniture legs, adding decorative details, or straightening irregular edges. It’s one of those jigs you might not use every day, but when you need it, it’s absolutely essential.

Why it’s useful

Creates consistent and repeatable tapers
Safer than freehand methods
Ideal for cutting table or bench legs
Can double as a basic jointing sled

My setup
My tapering jig is a fence-riding design that doesn’t require runners in the miter slots. Instead, it’s guided by your table saw’s rip fence and slides forward with control.

The base is made from Baltic birch plywood, while the adjustable angled fence is a spruce wood strip. Since there’s minimal pressure on the fence during the cut, there’s no need for hardwood or plywood—it simply acts as a guide to set the cutting angle.

The fence sits in tracks routed into the base, allowing me to easily dial in the taper. On top of the fence, I added clamp tracks that hold adjustable hold-downs, keeping the board firmly in place during the cut. There’s also a movable backstop that acts as a support and a repeatable stop block.

It’s quick to set up, and incredibly versatile—not only for furniture tapers but also for straightening edges on boards that don’t have a clean reference side.

7. Table Saw Tenoning Jig

A tenoning jig lets you cut accurate, repeatable tenons for mortise and tenon joints—one of the strongest and most time-tested joints in woodworking. Instead of fussing with shoulder planes or routers, this jig helps you achieve clean results right on the table saw, with full control over cheek thickness and offset.

Why it’s useful

Cuts perfect tenons for strong joinery
Makes repeated, consistent tenon cuts fast and easy
Also great for cutting notches and joints like the castle joint
Safer and more stable than holding workpieces upright by hand

My setup
I built my tenoning jig entirely from MDF, and it rides over the table saw fence—almost like a shoe sliding along a rail. This design makes it very stable and allows me to work safely with upright pieces.

The jig includes two T-tracks that support an adjustable back fence, which can be set either perfectly vertical or tilted if needed. The workpiece is held tightly in place using track clamps, pressed directly against the fence. It’s easy to lock everything in securely for multiple passes.

To dial in the tenon thickness or notch width, I simply adjust the table saw’s rip fence—moving the entire jig laterally for each cut. This gives me precise control without altering the jig setup itself.

I mostly use it for mortise and tenon joinery, but it’s also very handy for cutting clean notches or making custom joints like the castle joint.

8. Table Saw Circle Jig

Cutting circles on a table saw might not be the first approach that comes to mind—but with the right jig, it’s very doable. While a router circle jig is generally the go-to option for most woodworkers (especially for larger or cleaner arcs), a table saw circle jig still has its place—particularly for smaller projects and when a router isn’t available.

Why it’s useful

Lets you cut accurate small to mid-sized circles using your table saw
Great for making bases, trays, round insets, and decorative discs
A useful alternative when you don’t have a router available
Can be tuned for repeatable results with precise diameters

My setup
My table saw circle jig is optimized for smaller circles up to around 50 cm (20″) in diameter. The base is made from Baltic birch plywood, and it rides in the table saw’s miter slot using an oak runner. To fix the jig in place, I use stop blocks that hold it securely in the sled—both in front and underneath the runner.

The real heart of the jig is the adjustable center pin, which rides in a T-track on the jig base. This lets me fine-tune the radius of the circle and lock it down precisely before cutting. The process takes a bit more setup and is somewhat cumbersome compared to using a router, but it’s a solid alternative when working with smaller discs or when I want to avoid router setup.

🔗 Related:
How to Make a Circle Jig for a Table Saw

Table Saw Jig Comparison Table

Below is a quick comparison of all 7 table saw jigs covered in this article—highlighting their main purpose, what kind of projects they’re best for, and how often I use them.

Jig	Primary Use	Best For	Workshop Frequency
Crosscut Sled	Safe and accurate 90° crosscuts	cross cuts, cutting boards, squaring ends	⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (Almost every project)
Spline Jig	Strengthening and decorating miter joints	Frames, boxes, gift projects	⭐⭐⭐⭐
Miter Sled (Picture Frame Jig)	Cutting perfect 45° angles	Frames, angled joints	⭐⭐⭐⭐
Thin Strip Jig	Cutting safe, consistent thin strips	Inlays, trim, small boxes	⭐⭐⭐
Tapering Jig	Long angled cuts	Furniture legs, straightening edges	⭐⭐⭐
Tenoning Jig	Cutting mortise and tenon joints	Castle joints, chairs, tables	⭐⭐
Table Saw Circle Jig	Cutting small circles on a table saw	Small bases, trays, discs	⭐

📌 Note: Frequency rating is based on my personal use in a small workshop setting. Your priorities may vary based on the types of projects you build.

💡 Ready to build your own jigs?
Download the exact plans I use in my workshop—most of the jigs listed above are available with full diagrams, materials, and video links.
➜ See All Jig Plans Here

Final Thoughts

I’ve built dozens of jigs over the years, and these seven have earned a permanent spot in my workshop. Some of them started out rough—honestly, my early crosscut sled wasn’t square, and I remember remaking parts of the spline jig because I misaligned the slot. But that’s the beauty of building jigs yourself: every mistake teaches you something, and every fix makes you a better woodworker.

Many of my projects begin with one of these jigs. They save me time, improve my accuracy, and make the whole process more enjoyable. And most importantly—they’ve helped me build confidently, even in a small workshop with limited tools.

If you’re just getting started, don’t worry about making the perfect jig on your first try. Build something simple. Try it out. Rebuild if needed. Each jig you make will improve the next one.

If you’re not sure where to begin, start with the crosscut sled. That one alone will open up a ton of possibilities.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the first jig I should build for my table saw?

The crosscut sled is the most recommended first jig. It helps you make accurate and safe 90° cuts, and acts as a foundation for several other jigs—like the spline jig and miter sled. It’s also great for beginners.

Can I build table saw jigs with basic tools?

Absolutely. Most of the jigs listed in this post can be built using basic woodworking tools like a circular saw, drill, and clamps. Baltic birch plywood or MDF are common materials you can use even in a small workshop.

Are table saw jigs universal or tool-specific?

Some jigs (like a fence-mounted tenoning jig or circle jig) are more universal and can work with different saws. Others, like a crosscut sled, need to be sized and tuned to your specific table saw for best performance.

How do I make my table saw jigs more versatile?

Using T-tracks, adjustable fences, and modular attachments (like your setup with the spline jig on the crosscut sled) allows you to reuse the same base jig for multiple tasks—saving time, space, and material.

Do I need all these jigs in a small workshop?

Not right away. Start with the essentials—crosscut sled, spline jig, and maybe a tapering jig. As your projects grow, you can build more specialized jigs like the tenoning jig or circle jig when needed.

This post Best Table Saw Jigs for Your Workshop (And Why You Need Them) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

How to Make a Spline Jig for Table Saw (Step by Step)

About the author, Lukas — Sat, 21 Oct 2023 09:19:36 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

How to Make a Spline Jig for Table Saw (Step by Step)

In my not-so-spacious garage workshop, every tool has to earn its place. Not too long ago, I designed a table saw sled that’s been a huge game changer for me, simplifying countless of projects. And then I got an idea, and I thought: What’s the next jig for the workshop? Could I reuse the sled? That’s when I got the idea of the table saw spline jig addon. I approached this build in the same way I did for the table saw miter sled.

The spline jig is not an entirely separate tool, but rather an extension that easily integrates with the crosscut sled I crafted. The best part is, that you can easily attach it when necessary and remove it when you’re done. This is a huge bonus for those of us where space is at a premium.

Now, for those wondering what a spline jig is – it is the best way to add strength to miter joints and add those beautiful splines in picture frames and wooden boxes. No more eyeballing or manual measurements; this table saw jig makes sure all your cuts are precise and consistent. You simply place the workpiece in the jig, set the stoppers and you’re ready to go.

In this guide, I’ll walk you through the step-by-step process of building this simple spline jig for table saw. Trust me, at some point in your woodworking journey, you’ll face mitered corners. Believe me, it is a valuable addition to any workshop. If you’ve ever thought about making those fancy picture frames or box splines, then this is the tool for the job.

RELATED:

DIY Table Saw Spline Jig Video

If you want to see how it is done, watch the video below for a step-by-step guide on how to make a table saw spline jig.

I appreciate every YouTube subscriber. It’s free and easy to subscribe to — just Click Here To Subscribe. Thank you!

Table Saw Spline Jig Plans
The Material you will need
General Questions
1. What is a Table Saw Spline Jig and What is it Used For?
2. Different Types of Spline Jigs for a Table Saw
How to Make a Spline Jig for Table Saw
1. Step 1: Build the Cradle
2. Step 2: Build the Jig Base
3. Step 3: Make the Fence Attachment
4. Step 4: Cut the Kerf
How to Cut Splines on a Table Saw
Conclusion
FAQ

*Safety is your responsibility. Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first! Always be cautious and careful when using any power tool.

Table Saw Spline Jig Plans

Download the Table Saw Spline Jig Plans here

Download plans here

Materials you will need to build a Miter Spline Jig

Spline Jig Addon
2x Plywood Boards (Base) – 100mm x 320mm x 12mm (3.94″ x 12.60″ x 0.47″)
2x Plywood Boards (Cradle) – 115mm x 300mm x 9mm (4.53″ x 11.81″ x 0.35″)
1x Plywood Board (Attachment) – 115mm x 300mm x 9mm (4.53″ x 11.81″ x 0.35″)

Plywood Reinforcements
– 4x 50mm x 50mm x 12mm (1.97″ x 1.97″ x 0.47″)
– 4x 25mm x 25mm x 12mm (0.98″ x 0.98″ x 0.47″)

Plywood 12mm – https://amzn.to/3TPULp2

Other:
Wood Glue – https://amzn.to/48ltKhJ
Table Saw Blade – https://amzn.to/48maocv
M6 Bolts, Washers, T-Nuts, Wood Screws – https://amzn.to/41PodgQ

DIY Tools:
DIY T-track Bolts

Tools:
Table Saw – https://amzn.to/47mWiGf
Trim Router – https://amzn.to/3HbQcOg
MicroJig GRR-Ripper – https://amzn.to/3vjQSP7 (Grr-Ripper Review)
Cordless Hand Drill – https://amzn.to/3HqLEnH
Corded Hand Drill / Drill Press Stand – https://amzn.to/3NSA3Bo
T-track Clamps – https://amzn.to/3tEKaCW
One Hand Clamps – https://amzn.to/48jGxkZ
Spring Clamps – https://amzn.to/41Nuh9D
Machinist Square / Speed Square
Japanese Ryoba Saw – https://amzn.to/48if4Qz

Check all the Tools I Use

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What is a Table Saw Spline Jig and What is it Used For?

A table saw spline jig is an accessory, a jig, specifically tailored for table saws, designed to assist woodworkers in creating splines – those thin decorative inserts or reinforcements for mitered corners. Splines are primarily used to strengthen and beautify mitered joints, and corners in frames, boxes, and other woodworking projects. The jig ensures the workpieces are stably anchored in the accessory while the sled glides across the saw and cuts through the material.

Benefits of a spline jig:

Strength and Beauty: The spline jig allows for the addition of splines that not only reinforce joint corners but also elevate the aesthetics of any project.
Safety: The jig ensures safer operations and reduces any unexpected wood movements, by keeping the wood secure during the cutting process.
Versatility: Perfect for various projects, from picture frames, and boxes, to small cabinets. The size of the spline jig does not limit you to thin wood pieces only but can accommodate larger workpieces as well.

Different Types of Spline Jigs for a Table Saw

There are a couple of common methods to cut splines on a table saw. One approach uses a jig that moves along the table saw’s fence, while another uses the miter slots, working like a sled. Let’s take a look at these two:

1. Fence-Based Spline Jig

This jig attaches to the table saw fence and glides over it. To set the cut position, just adjust the fence closer or further from the saw blade. Insert your frame into the jig, lock it, and you’re good to go.

Works for both small and large picture frames.
Quick and straightforward setup using the top of the fence.
Compact design.

Best for frames; not ideal for boxes or cabinets.

2. Miter Slot Spline Jig

Think of this as a sled that moves using the table saw’s miter slots. It’s a bit bigger, kind of like a cradle, perfect for larger pieces. You can adjust the cutting position by setting stoppers on the jig.

Suitable for frames, boxes, and even small cabinets.
User-friendly setup.

Might not work well for very large frames.
Takes up more space.

Let's Start Building!

Building a miter slot spline cutting jig involves making the base (which is installed on the sled’s front fence), and a V-shaped cradle to accommodate the workpieces. This design is an add-on for a table saw crosscut sled. All the parts can be cut on a table saw, with a few minor adjustments using a router or a jigsaw.

The jig is made of plywood (9 and 12mm) and can be attached to the sled’s fence either with t-slot bolts or t-slot clamps. It can accommodate wood pieces up to 80cm in length (possibly more). Although the overall dimensions of the workpiece are what truly matter.

Spline Jig Properties:
• Material: Baltic Birch plywood
• Total Dimensions: 340mm x 230mm x 95mm (13.39″ x 9.06″ x 3.74″)
• Attachment: T-Track using T-track bolts or T-track clamps

How to Make a Spline Jig for Table Saw

Step 1: Build the Cradle

Start by cutting two plywood boards to these dimensions: 115mm x 300mm x 9mm. I used a table saw sled and a push block to get these cuts. Once cut, join the boards at a right angle using clamps and glue.

TIP: While you could angle the board edges at 45 degrees for joining, it’s not essential for this jig. Your table saw blade is tall enough for the task. This adjustment is more relevant if you’re making a jig for a router since router bits aren’t as long as saw blades.

Step 2: Build the Jig Base

Begin by sizing two plywood boards to 100mm x 320mm x 12mm. Next, with the help of a miter sled, cut eight rectangular support pieces: four of them should be 50x50mm, and the other four should be 25x25mm. Using the miter sled ensures that you achieve perfectly angled isosceles 45-degree triangles.

TIP: Stick some painter’s tape on the wood before cutting the supports. It’ll give you cleaner cuts.

Attach the support pieces to the base using glue. Place the larger supports on the outer edges and the smaller ones towards the inside. Use a square to ensure the supports stand at a right angle to the base. Remember to avoid the center of the boards, since that’s where you’ll be cutting the kerf later on.

After securing the support pieces to the bases, attach the cradle on top. Set the cradle upright on your workbench and fit the base pieces around it.

TIP: Use clamps to keep one base piece steady, then position the cradle alongside it.

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Step 3: Make the Fence Attachment

Cut the attachment board to the specified measurements (115mm x 300mm x 9mm). Next, route out 2 slots for the larger supports. These slots will allow the supports to slide in, creating an overlap between the attachment board and the jig’s base. This overlap provides enough surface for both glue and screws.

Drill two 8mm holes in the attaching piece, aligning with the t-track on the table saw sled fence. Apply glue on the overlapping area, align the jig with the fence, and fix it to the attachment piece. Let the glue set. Once dry, reinforce the boards with screws making sure the heads sit flat against the board.

Step 4: Cut the Kerf

Mount the spline jig on the table saw sled using either bolts or t-track clamps. Lift the saw blade to about 2 cm high, then turn on the table saw. Carefully make the cut. For neater and more accurate cuts, consider using painter’s tape.

How to Cut Splines on a Table Saw

Using a spline jig on a table saw is the most effective way to cut splines. This tool allows you to create splines in picture frames, boxes, cabinets, and other wooden items. Here’s a simple step-by-step guide to cutting splines in a wooden box, though the process is similar for other wooden pieces. Use a flat tooth blade for the cuts. The wooden strips will align perfectly leaving no spaces at the ends.

Position the jig on the table saw and slide the box into the jig.
Set the side stoppers to mark the spline’s exact location and clamp them securely.
Adjust the blade height to ensure the cut doesn’t go completely through the joint. The depth will vary based on the corner’s thickness.
Power up the saw and push the jig through the blade.
Flip the box and repeat for all four corners.
Adjust the stopper to add more splines.

To finish your box, first apply glue to the splines and slide in thin wooden strips. It’s a good idea to choose strips slightly narrower than the splines because they can expand with the glue. Wait until the glue dries, trim any sticking-out parts with a saw, and smooth out the box corners using a sander. To make the spline visually pop-up, consider using wooden strips that have a different color than the box itself.

TIP: You can also make some creative splines by tilting the saw blade to 45 degrees.

Conclusion

I’ve really come to appreciate the value of a spline jig in my projects. It provides strength and style, unmatched accuracy, and consistent repeatability. It’s amazing how such a simple jig can offer so much precision. This is one of the essential table saw jigs you want to have in your workshop. Give it a shot, it is well worth it!

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45 Degree Spline Cutting Jig

Woodworking Jigs I used to build it:

These are the tools and jigs I have used to make the spline jig addon. Not all of them are necessary though.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need a spline jig?

Using a spline jig ensures stronger and more attractive joints, especially in decorative boxes and picture frames.

Can I use a spline jig on any table saw?

Yes, most spline jigs are made to work with many table saws. Just make sure your saw has miter slots or a fence, and you’ll be good to go.

How does a spline jig enhance joint strength?

It adds extra material (the spline) into a slot in the joint, increasing its durability and strength.

Can I make my own spline jig or should I buy one?

Both options work. Homemade spline jigs can be designed to perfectly fit your needs, while store-bought ones offer convenience and professional design.

This post How to Make a Spline Jig for Table Saw (Step by Step) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

How to Make a Table Saw Miter Sled (Cut Perfect Miters)

About the author, Lukas — Sat, 07 Oct 2023 12:03:19 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

How to Make a Table Saw Miter Sled (Cut Perfect Miters)

Since I don’t have a large workshop, I’m always looking for ways to make the best use of my tools and space. A while back, I built a table saw sled that’s been super helpful in many projects.

But then, I had an idea: Why not make it even better? So, I came up with an addon, a miter sled. This new piece isn’t a whole new tool, but something you can attach to the sled I previously made. It’s great because when you’re not using it, you can just take it off. This is especially handy if, like me, you’re tight on space.

So, what’s a table saw miter sled? Well, it’s a tool that helps you make precise angled cuts, like when you’re making a picture frame. Instead of trying to guess the angle or measure it by hand every time, the miter sled helps you get it right every time. It’s all about making sure your projects look sharp and fit together just right.

In this guide, I’ll show you how to make this detachable table saw miter sled addon for perfect 45-degree angles. Trust me, it’s great to have one in the shop and will make your woodworking projects look even better, especially if you want to make a few picture frames. Let’s get started!

RELATED:

How to Make a Table Saw Miter Sled Video

If you want to see how it is done, watch the video below for a step-by-step guide on how to make a table saw miter sled.

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Table Saw Miter Sled Video
Table Saw Miter Sled Plans
The Material you will need
Related Questions
1. What is a Table Saw Miter Sled and What is it Used For?
2. Cutting Miters on a Table Saw or Miter Saw?
How to Make a Table Saw Miter Sled
1. Step 1: Build the Miter Attachment
2. Step 2: Reinforce the Structure
3. Step 3: Attach the Miter Attachment to the Sled
4. Step 4: Check for Squareness
How to Make Miter Cuts on a Table Saw
Conclusion
FAQ

*Safety is your responsibility. Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first!

Table Saw Miter Sled Plans

Download the Table Saw Miter Sled Plans here

Download plans here

Materials you will need to build a Miter Sled Jig

Miter Sled Addon
2 x Plywood Strips – 280mm x 30mm x 12mm (11.02″ x 1.18″ x 0.47″) – https://amzn.to/3TPULp2
Plywood Connector – 240mm x 30mm x 9mm (9.45″ x 1.18″ x 0.35″)
Plywood Attachment – 390mm x 88mm x 9mm (15.35″ x 3.46″ x 0.35″)

Other:
Wood Glue – https://amzn.to/48ltKhJ
Painters Tape – https://amzn.to/3RV95u3
Table Saw Blade – https://amzn.to/48maocv
M6 Bolts, Washers, T-Nuts, Wood Screws – https://amzn.to/41PodgQ

DIY Tools:
DIY T-track Bolts
Table Saw Sled

Tools:
Table Saw – https://amzn.to/47mWiGf
MicroJig GRR-RIPPER – https://amzn.to/3vjQSP7 (Grr-Ripper Review)
Cordless Hand Drill – https://amzn.to/3HqLEnH
Corded Hand Drill / Drill Press Stand – https://amzn.to/3NSA3Bo
Digital Angle Finder Protractor – https://amzn.to/3S4RZej
T-track Clamps – https://amzn.to/3tEKaCW
Large Square / Speed Square
One Hand Clamps – https://amzn.to/48jGxkZ
Spring Clamps – https://amzn.to/41Nuh9D
Japanese Dozuki Saw – https://amzn.to/3NS5viZ

Check all the Tools I Use

We may earn an affiliate commission when you buy something through our retail links. As an Amazon Associate AllFlavor Workshop earns from qualifying purchases.

What is a Table Saw Miter Sled and What is it Used For?

A table saw miter sled is an accessory for table saws, designed to help woodworkers make precise and accurate angled cuts, also known as miter cuts. These cuts are often used in creating frames, boxes, and various woodworking joints. The sled ensures that the wood stays in place and moves smoothly across the saw, reducing the chances of mistakes. With the aid of a miter jig, you can achieve consistent and accurate angles, ensuring your projects fit perfectly.

Benefits of a miter sled

Precision and Consistency: With the miter sled, you can trust each cut to be spot-on. It takes the guesswork out and minimizes errors, making sure every miter joint fits perfectly.
Safety: Using the miter sled keeps the wood stable and prevents it from moving unexpectedly, making it safer to operate the table saw.
Time-saving: Instead of manually measuring and aligning each cut, the miter sled speeds up the process, allowing for faster project completion.

Cutting Miters on a Table Saw or Miter Saw?

When cutting miters two main tools are typically used for the job: a table saw and a miter saw.

When cutting miters on a table saw, a miter gauge or a miter sled is typically used. These tools help guide the wood at the desired angle relative to the blade. Table saws offer versatility; with the right setup, you can handle a variety of cuts beyond just miters. However, a common downside is that setting up precise angles can sometimes be time-consuming, and there’s a bit of a learning curve for beginners.
On the other hand, a miter saw is designed specifically for making miter cuts. With its rotating base, setting the angle for a miter cut is straightforward. Miter saws are generally quicker to set up for these kinds of cuts and tend to be more user-friendly, especially for those new to woodworking. However, they are limited in terms of the width of boards they can handle, and they might occupy more space in a workshop compared to the compact nature of a table saw’s miter setup.

For tasks like making picture frames, I use a table saw because it offers precision. On the other hand, when I need speed or have to cut shapes like crown molding, I turn to the miter saw. It’s quick and gets the job done right.

Let's Start Building!

Building the miter jig involves making the sled base, and installing it on the sled’s front fence. This is an add-on for a table saw crosscut sled for the DWE7491RS. All the parts can be cut on the table saw – you don’t need a miter saw or any other tool for that.

The jig is made of plywood (9 and 12mm) and is attached to the fence with DIY t-track bolts. The jig’s right side lets you cut long pieces, so you can make frames of any size. However, the left side can only handle pieces up to 285mm long.

As an alternative, you can build the entire sled from scratch. That would involve making the base, adding the miter slots runners, and building the 45-degree fence.

Miter Jig Properties:

Material: Baltic birch plywood
Total Dimensions: 255mm x 390mm x 21mm (10.04″ x 15.35″ x 0.83″)
Attachment: T-Track using DIY T-track bolts

How to Make a Table Saw Miter Sled

Step 1: Build the Miter Attachment

Start by cutting two plywood strips to 280mm x 30mm x 12mm. While cutting the strips, use a push block – it’s the safest method. Angle both ends of the strips with a 45-degree cut. I use a Dozuki saw for this. Aim to get the cuts as close to 45 degrees as you can, but don’t stress if it’s not perfect.

When joining the strips, use glue and set them at a sharp 90-degree angle with the help of two squares. This step is crucial. Place painter’s tape beneath the joined area to prevent it from sticking to your work surface.

TIP: If the cut angles are slightly off, use sandpaper to refine them and get them as close to 45 degrees as possible.

Step 2: Reinforce the Structure

To give the structure some added strength, first cut out a small triangular piece and attach it to the top corner using glue. This helps strengthen the joint.

Next, prepare a plywood strip measuring 240mm x 30mm x 9mm and shape its ends at a 45-degree angle. Fix this strip to the main body with glue for additional support. After the glue settles, fasten it further with a few screws.

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Step 3: Attach the Miter Attachment to the Sled

For connecting the miter jig to the sled, grab a plywood board that’s 390mm x 88mm x 9mm. Drill some 8mm holes down its length. Make sure these holes line up with the t-track on the sled where this board will fit.

While I’ve made four holes, just two will be enough. If you like, you can also shape the edges of the board at a 45-degree angle.

Attach the miter jig to the sled temporarily using double-sided tape. With the help of squares and a digital angle finder, ensure the jig forms a 135-degree angle with the saw blade. Then, secure the connecting board to the jig using glue and screws.

NOTE: Aim to align the jig so it’s at a 135-degree angle with the saw blade. If it’s not exact, it’s alright, just make sure the tip of the jig is perfectly square. This will ensure your miters will be perfectly square.

Step 4: Check for Squareness

Attach the miter jig to the sled using t-track bolts or clamps. Place painter’s tape on the jig’s tip, then make a partial cut into the jig (don’t cut through completely). Peel off the remaining tape and check for squareness. Fine tune as necessary.

This is what the finished 45-degree miter jig looks like.

How to Make Miter Cuts on a Table Saw

Using a table saw miter jig is among the top methods for achieving clean and precise miter cuts. When properly set up, the jig allows for consistent cuts every time, ensuring each piece fits perfectly.

For detailed instructions on how to use a miter sled on a table saw, refer to the steps below and the included video.

First, attach the miter jig to your table saw sled using t-track bolts or clamps. Ensure the jig lines up well with the saw blade.
Put your workpiece on either side of the jig, aligning the cut line with the blade. Hold the workpiece firmly in place with clamps.
Carefully make your cut.
Now, place the second workpiece on the opposite side of the jig and cut. Your two cuts will come together to create a perfect 90-degree angle.

When joining the pieces, choose between using a corner clamp or a picture frame jig for the best results.

Conclusion

Wrapping things up, having a miter sled in your workshop is a huge advantage. Its main strengths are its ability to make cuts with unbeatable accuracy and offer consistent repeatability.

This ensures every mitered edge is spot on, every time. And while some might think it’s a complex jig to make, this step-by-step guide proves how easy it is to craft one yourself. Once you’ve built it, you’ll immediately appreciate the difference it makes in your woodworking tasks.

KEEP READING: Best Beginner Table Saws

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45 Degree Table Saw Sled

Jigs used for this project:

These are the tools and jigs I have used to build the miter jig addon. Not all of them are necessary though.

Frequently Asked Questions

How does a miter sled differ from a regular table saw sled?

While a regular table saw sled is designed for straight crosscuts, a miter sled is specifically made to cut angles with precision.

Is using a miter sled safer than cutting freehand?

Yes, a miter sled provides better workpiece support and control, reducing the chances of kickback and ensuring a safer cutting experience.

Can I cut compound miters using a table saw miter sled?

Standard miter sleds are designed for simple angled cuts. For compound miters (both bevel and miter adjustments), you’d typically need a miter saw or a more specialized sled setup.

How do I ensure the accuracy of my miter cuts using the sled?

Periodically check the angle of your miter sled against a trusted square, and always make test cuts on scrap wood before making the final cut on your workpiece.

This post How to Make a Table Saw Miter Sled (Cut Perfect Miters) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

Table Saw Jigs – AllFlavor Workshop

DIY Mobile Table Saw Workbench (Step by Step with Pictures)

Video: Watch the Build

Table of Contents

Table Saw Workbench Plans

Materials Needed

Why Build a Mobile Table Saw Workbench?

Let’s Start Building!

How to Make a Mobile Table Saw Workbench

Step 1: Build the Base Frame

Step 2: Build the Upper Cabinet Level

Step 3: Build the Tabletop and Outfeed Table

Step 4: Final Assembly and Finishing Touches

Wrap Up

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I build a mobile table saw workbench for a saw other than the DeWalt 7491?

Why use MDF for the top instead of plywood?

Do I really need an outfeed table on a mobile table saw workbench?

What are the main benefits of a mobile table saw workbench?

Can I add more features to this table saw workbench later?

DIY Table Saw Push Block: How to Build a Safe Push Block for Clean Cuts

Video: Watch the Build

Table of Contents

Tools and Materials

How a Push Block Makes Table Saw Rips Safer and Cleaner

Let’s Start Building!

How to Make a Push Block for Table Saw

Step 1: Building the Push Block Base Frame

Step 2: Attaching the Side Legs

Step 3: Building the T-Tracks on Top of the Base

Step 4: Making the Adjustable Center Leg

Step 5: Adding the Non-Slip Rubber Pad

Step 6: Building the Side Adjustable Stand

Step 7: Final Assembly – Putting Everything Together

Wrap-Up: Why This Push Block Is Worth Building

FAQs: DIY Table Saw Push Block

1. Why use a push block instead of just a push stick?

2. What size should a table saw push block be?

3. What material should I use on the bottom for grip?

4. Do I need one or two push blocks?

5. Can I use this push block on tools other than the table saw?

How to Build a Picture Frame Jig for the Table Saw (Perfect 45° Corners)

Video: Watch the Build

Table of Contents

Tools and Materials

Why Build a Picture Frame Jig for the Table Saw?

Let’s Start Building!

How to Build a Picture Frame Jig for Table Saw

Step 1: Building the Picture Frame Jig Base

Step 2: Making and Attaching the Fences

Step 3: Making the Stop Block

Step 4: Finishing the Picture Frame Jig — Scale and Hold-Down Clamp

Setting Up the Picture Frame Jig (and Cutting Your First Frame)

Wrap-Up: Why I Like This Picture Frame Jig

FAQs: Picture Frame Jig for the Table Saw

1. Do I really need a picture frame jig, or is a miter gauge enough?

2. Can I use this jig for other projects besides picture frames?

3. How accurate does the 45° angle need to be?

4. What size frames can I make with this jig?

5. Is the hold-down clamp necessary, or can I just hold the work by hand?

How to Build a Table Saw Thin Strip Jig (Safe, Repeatable Thin Rips)

Video: Watch the Build

Table of Contents

Tools and Materials

Why Use a Thin Strip Jig on the Table Saw?

Let’s Start Building!

How to Build a Thin Strip Jig for Table Saw

Step 1: Building the Thin Strip Jig Base

Step 2: Making the Thin Strip Jig Handle

Step 3: Making the Hold-Down Clamp

Step 4: Making the Back Stopper

Setting Up and Using the Thin Strip Jig

1. Set the Strip Width

2. Adjust the Back Stopper and Hold-Down Clamp

3. Make the Cuts

Wrap-Up: A Small Jig with a Lot of Use

FAQs: Table Saw Thin Strip Jig

1. Is a thin strip jig safer than cutting thin strips against the fence?

2. How thin can I safely cut strips with this jig?

3. What blade should I use for cutting thin strips?