Do I need all these router jigs to start building cabinets?

Not at all. Start with one or two based on what you’re building. For example, if you need to cut dados for cabinet dividers or shelves, the adjustable dado jig is a great place to start. Building drawers? You’ll love the box joint jig. Once you see what you use the most, you can always add more later.

What’s the advantage of using a router jig over freehand routing?

Router jigs guide your cuts and add stability, which means cleaner edges, more control, and repeatable results. For cabinet work, accuracy matters — and jigs help you achieve that without the guesswork or wasted material.

Are there downloadable plans available for these jigs?

Yes. All the jigs mentioned in this article — except for the shelf pin jig — have downloadable PDF plans available. They include imperial and metric measurements, cutting lists, and step-by-step build instructions.

Router Jigs – AllFlavor Workshop

DIY Juice Groove Jig: Cut Clean Juice Grooves Every Time

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 09 Oct 2025 07:00:00 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

DIY Juice Groove Jig: Cut Clean Juice Grooves Every Time

If you’ve ever tried cutting a juice groove freehand, you know how tricky it can be to get it clean and consistent — especially across multiple boards. That’s exactly why I built this DIY Juice Groove Jig.

This jig is designed to make the whole process smooth and repeatable. It’s adjustable, works with a wide range of board sizes (up to 40×69 cm), and clamps down securely to your workbench whenever you need it. I built mine using MDF for the base and Baltic birch plywood for the fences. The tracks are routed directly into the MDF using a 6mm router bit, so there’s no need to buy aluminum t-tracks — though you could definitely go that route too.

What I really like is how easily you can adjust the jig to fit different board sizes — just slide the fences in place, lock them down, and you’re ready to go. You can even tweak the groove offset by adding spacers under your cutting board.

I usually use this jig right after trimming a board to final size and before routing handles or sanding. It’s quick to set up, easy to use, and gives you perfectly clean juice grooves every time.

👉 If you’re working on cutting boards, check out Best Jigs for Making Cutting Boards for more builds like this one. I also now offer premium woodworking plans for selected cutting board jigs and bundles if you want the more complete version of the builds.

How to Make a Juice Groove Jig Video

Want to see how it’s built? Watch the full step-by-step video below. I walk through each part of the process — from making the jig base to cutting a clean juice groove in a cutting board.

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Watch the Build (Video)
Downloadable Plans
Tools and Materials
Step-by-Step Build Guide
1. Step 1: Cut the Base to Size
2. Step 2: Add T-Tracks to the Base
3. Step 3: Build the Adjustable Side Fences
4. Assembling the Juice Groove Jig
How to Use the Jig
Wrap-Up
FAQ
Jigs I Used for The Project

*Safety is your responsibility. Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first!

Juice Groove Jig Plans

If you want the more complete version of the plans, I also now offer premium woodworking plans for selected cutting board jigs and bundles. This juice groove jig is one of the jigs I reach for regularly when I want clean, repeatable grooves and a more finished-looking cutting board.

Download the free Juice Groove Jig Plans here

Download free plans here

Tools and Materials

Here’s what I used to build the juice groove jig. Many of these are standard tools you likely already have in the shop. I’ve added affiliate links for your convenience — they help support the site at no cost to you.

Tools

Table Saw – Link
Router – Link
Hand Drill – Link
Orbit Sander – Link
Japanese Dozuki Saw – Link
Drill Bit Set – Link
Grr-Ripper Push Block – Link
Table Saw Blade – Link
Narex Chisels – Link
F-Clamps – Link
T-Track Clamps – Link
One Hand Clamps – Link
Spring Clamps – Link
Speed Square – Link

Tools

Juice Groove Router Bit – Link
Router Bit Dia 6mm – Link

Consumables & Other

Wood Glue – Link
Painters Tape – Link
Sanding Discs – Link
[MDF + Baltic Birch Plywood]
T-Track Bolts

🛠 Check out all the tools I use here

As an Amazon Associate, I may earn from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to you.

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Let's start building!

The jig is built from two main parts — a flat MDF base with routed T-slots and four adjustable side fences made from Baltic birch plywood. I went with MDF because it’s straight and easy to cut clean slots into. The homemade T-tracks keep the build budget-friendly and work with standard shop clamps, which is a nice bonus.

All the components are laid out with cutting boards in mind — both in size and in how the jig adjusts. Before routing the groove, the board is held in place between the fences, locked down with clamps, and if needed, small spacers can be added underneath to fine-tune the groove offset.

It’s a straightforward build, and once assembled, the jig handles a variety of board sizes with ease. Let’s walk through it step by step.

How to Make a Juice Groove Jig

Step 1: Cut the Base to Size

To start, I’m cutting the base of the juice groove jig to its final dimensions — 51.5 × 70.5 cm. I’m using 18mm thick MDF, which offers plenty of rigidity and stays nice and flat over time. You can cut it on a table saw, like I did, or use a circular saw with a guide if that’s what you have on hand. A straight and solid base is key, since all the other parts of the jig will be mounted to it.

Step 2: Add T-Tracks to the Base

Once the base is ready, it’s time to create the homemade T-track system. I start by marking a matrix of tracks — two slots from one side and two from the adjacent side. These will later hold the adjustable fences in place.

To make clean, straight slots, I use my router dado jig. After routing, I clean up the edges of each slot with a chisel. Before moving forward, I test my homemade T-track bolts in the slots to make sure they slide freely.

Next, I cut MDF strips to form the walls of the T-tracks and glue them into the slots. I use just enough glue to hold them — too much and cleanup becomes a hassle. I also fix each strip in place with screws, making sure they sit flush with the surface. Finally, I sand everything down lightly to remove any bumps and make sure the surface stays flat.

Step 3: Build the Adjustable Side Fences

Next up are the adjustable side fences — you’ll need four in total, and they’re made from Baltic birch plywood. Each fence is built from a wider base strip and a few narrower strips stacked on top. The base not only gives the fence structure, but it also creates a small offset between the cutting board and the fence, which helps when routing juice grooves.

I cut all the strips to size on my table saw, then glue the narrower strips on top of the base to form each fence. The height is up to you — it depends on the typical thickness of your cutting boards. Once everything is glued up, clean any glue squeeze-out to make sure the surface stays nice and flat.

Step 4: Assemble the Juice Groove Jig

Now that the fences are ready, it’s time to assemble the jig. To hold cutting boards securely, the fences need to be perpendicular to each other — this way, you can easily copy the board’s shape and route a precise groove around it.

One fence is permanently fixed to one of the shorter sides of the base. I attach it with wood glue and screws.
The opposite shorter fence gets a routed slot, so I can attach it with T-track bolts and adjust it as needed.
The two longer side fences don’t have any slots. I attach them with T-track clamps, depending on the size of the cutting board I’m working on.

This setup gives you a fully adjustable jig that works for boards of various sizes. You can tighten everything in place once the board is inside, and then you’re ready to route.

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How to Use the Juice Groove Jig

Once your cutting board is trimmed to final size (and before sanding or adding rubber feet), it’s time to cut the juice groove.

Here’s how I use the jig:

Place the board against the fixed fence on the base.
Adjust the remaining three fences so they fit snugly around the cutting board.
Secure the fences using either T-track bolts or clamps.
Clamp the whole jig to your workbench or table so nothing moves during routing.
Grab your handheld router fitted with a round nose bit (aka juice groove bit).
Start in one corner and work your way around the board, following the inner fence outline.

This setup gives you consistent results and helps avoid mistakes like slipping or uneven grooves.

Juice Groove Routing Tips

Tip	Why it Matters
1. Cut slowly and evenly	Keeps the groove smooth without chatter marks
2. Make multiple shallow passes	Reduces tear-out and prevents burning
3. Clear chips between passes	Prevents clogging, keeps the router bit cool, and avoids chips getting under the base plate — so your juice groove stays clean and at a consistent depth
4. Move in a clockwise direction	Safer and helps the bit pull into the fence for a cleaner cut

Wrap-Up

I’ve used this juice groove jig on every cutting board I’ve made in the past year — and it just works. It saves a ton of time, gives me consistent results, and I don’t have to worry about wobbly setups or freehand mistakes. Once it’s clamped down, I know the cut will be clean.

One of the things I really appreciate is how versatile it is. You can use it with different board sizes and thicknesses, and it works great alongside other jigs I use in the process. If you’re building boards regularly, this one’s right up there with the best woodworking jigs for cutting boards.

If you haven’t built one yet, I’d definitely recommend it. It’s one of those jigs that earns its place on the wall because you keep reaching for it. If you want the more complete version of the build, you can also browse my woodworking plans page along with the rest of my cutting board jig collection.

FAQ – Juice Groove Jig

What router bit do I need to cut a juice groove?

You’ll need a round nose router bit — often labeled as a juice groove bit. I recommend a 6mm or 8mm diameter depending on the groove style you’re after.

Can I use this jig for different cutting board sizes?

Yes, the jig is fully adjustable. The fences can be moved to fit a variety of board sizes and thicknesses.

How do I avoid burning the edges while routing?

Use multiple light passes rather than one deep cut, move at a consistent pace, and make sure to clear the chips between each pass. This prevents heat buildup and keeps the bit clean.

Can I use shop-bought T-tracks instead of making my own?

Absolutely. While I built mine with MDF and homemade bolts to keep costs down, you can swap in aluminum T-tracks and hardware if preferred.

Jigs I Used for This Project

This post DIY Juice Groove Jig: Cut Clean Juice Grooves Every Time first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

Essential Router Jigs for Cabinet Making (And How to Use Them)

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 18 Sep 2025 07:00:00 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

Essential Router Jigs for Cabinet Making (And How to Use Them)

Cabinet making is one of those woodworking areas where precision really matters — and routers are some of the best tools for getting clean, accurate cuts. Whether I’m adding shelves, routing dados, or fitting face frames, I always turn to a few reliable jigs to make things easier and more repeatable.

Over the years, I’ve built quite a few router jigs in my workshop — some simple, others more complex — but a handful have stuck with me. I use them all the time when building cabinets, drawers, or shelving units. Router jigs are a great way to get more precise results without taking up a lot of space — perfect for any workshop setup, especially if you’re working in a smaller garage like I do.

In this post, I’m walking through the router jigs I use the most for cabinet projects, what they’re good for, and how you can build them too. All of them were built with space and practicality in mind — I wanted tools that are easy to set up, give repeatable results, and don’t take up a ton of room.

📌 I’ll link to the downloadable plans throughout the post if you want to build your own versions — they include measurements, a list of materials and tools, a step-by-step video guide, and more.

Why Use Router Jigs for Cabinet Making?
Essential Router Jigs for Cabinet Making
1. Adjustable Router Dado Jig
2. Shelf Pin Jig
3. Router Mortising Jig
4. Router Circle Jig
5. Router Template Jig
6. Benchtop Router Table
7. Router Table Box Joint Jig
8. Router Table Spline Jig
Comparison Table: Router Jigs for Cabinet Making
Final Thoughts
FAQ: Router Jigs for Cabinet Making

Why Use Router Jigs for Cabinet Making?

When you’re building cabinets — whether it’s full kitchen units, shop storage, or utility drawers — accuracy matters. You need clean dados, perfectly aligned shelf pins, tight-fitting mortises, and straight cuts. A router alone can do a lot, but when paired with the right jigs, it becomes a whole different tool.

Router jigs let you:

Speed up repetitive cuts – Like shelf pins or dados for side panels.
Keep things aligned – Essential when you’re joining multiple parts together.
Avoid measuring errors – The jig sets the path; you just follow it.
Work cleaner and safer – Especially when routing small parts or delicate edges.

Most of the cabinet jigs I use are easy to build and work with both a plunge router and a compact handheld router. No matter the material, the right jig helps keep things accurate and consistent every time.

That said, not all router jigs are created equal. Below are the ones I rely on the most when building cabinets — from dadoes and rabbets to shelf pin holes and perfect mortises.

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Essential Router Jigs for Cabinet Making

1. Adjustable Router Dado Jig

For precise dadoes and rabbets every time

This is one of my go-to router jigs when building cabinets. Dados and rabbets are the backbone of strong cabinet construction — they help align pieces, add strength, and create a clean look. And this jig makes cutting them quick, accurate, and repeatable.

What sets this jig apart is its adjustability. You can dial it in to match the exact width of your material, lock it in place, and cut a snug-fitting dado in a single pass. No messing around with multiple test cuts or fine-tuning router fences. It’s especially useful when working with plywood, which often varies slightly in thickness.

🛠 My Setup:
I built this jig to work with a 6mm straight router bit and a plunge router. The base is made from thin MDF to maximize plunge depth. The guide rails are aluminum, and the adjustable mechanism is locked in place with wooden knobs. It’s compact, quick to set up, and gives great results every time.

📌 You can check out the full build and plans here: Router Dado Jig

2. Shelf Pin Jig

For evenly spaced adjustable shelves

When building cabinets or bookcases, shelf pins let you add adjustable shelves without complicating the design. But getting those holes evenly spaced and perfectly aligned on both sides of the panel? That’s where a shelf pin jig makes all the difference.

This jig helps you drill clean, consistent holes for shelf pins using a plunge router and a guide bushing. It ensures that every shelf sits level and you can repeat the same layout across multiple panels. Great for kitchen cabinets, closet storage, or shop furniture.

🛠 My Setup:
My shelf pin jig is made from MDF/ Plywood with evenly spaced holes that guide a 6mm router bit using a bushing. I use it with my plunge router, clamped to the cabinet side panels. You can scale the jig to fit your most common cabinet sizes or add stop blocks for consistent hole spacing.

Note: I don’t currently have plans for this jig — but if there’s interest, I might make some soon.

3. Router Mortising Jig

For strong, clean mortise joints in frames and panels

When it comes to cabinet doors, face frames, or structural panels, mortise-and-tenon joinery is one of the strongest options you can use — and this jig helps you get perfect mortises every time. It holds the workpiece both vertically and horizontally and allows you to plunge straight down into the exact position you need.

The jig is adjustable for different workpiece sizes and mortise lengths, so it works for everything from small drawer fronts to full cabinet frames. Once set, you can repeat the cut across multiple parts quickly and accurately.

🛠 My Setup:
This jig mounts to my workbench and holds the workpiece securely against an adjustable fence. The plunge router rides on a top-mounted platform between two guide rails and can move left to right. Two wooden knobs on the back adjust the front-to-back travel of the router table, and side stops set the mortise length. I used Baltic birch plywood, MDF, and HDF in the build, with wooden knobs and wing nuts for adjustments.

📌 You can check out the full build and plans here: Router Mortising Jig

4. Router Circle Jig

For cutting perfect circles, round tabletops, and arcs

Whether you’re making lazy Susans, speaker cutouts, or round cabinet tops, a circle jig makes the job smooth and accurate. It lets you cut clean, consistent circles with a handheld router and a simple pivot arm.

This jig is quite simple, but very effective. You fix the center point, set the radius, and guide the router around in a perfect arc. I’ve used mine to cut circles as small as 3 cm and as large as 80 cm — just depends on the length of the arm.

🛠 My Setup:
I built this for a handheld router (my DeWalt D26200). The arm is mounted to a 6mm plywood base, which allows full plunge depth of the bit. You can modify the jig for other router brands by drilling the appropriate mounting holes. It’s easy to scale up or down depending on your needs.

📌 You can check out the full build and plans here: Router Circle Jig

5. Router Template Jig

For inlays, hardware recesses, and precise cutouts

If you need repeatable shapes, tight-fitting inlays, or clean hardware cutouts — this is the jig for the job. I use it for routing everything from handle recesses and hinge cutouts to decorative inlay patterns. It saves tons of setup time and gives a pro-level finish.

What makes it effective is its adjustability. The jig has four sliding arms that create a custom-sized template opening. You can use all four arms for rectangles or just two or three to shape trapezoids or angled recesses.

🛠 My Setup:
This version is built for a 6mm straight bit and a handheld router. The base is thin MDF for better plunge depth, and the adjustable arms are made from plywood with integrated T-tracks. Once the shape is dialed in, I lock the arms with wing nuts and clamp the jig to the workpiece. The router follows the inside of the template for a clean, repeatable result every time.

🔗 Step-by-step guide and Plans available if you want to build one: Router Template Jig

6. Benchtop Router Table

Why it’s perfect for precise and repeatable cabinet joinery

A router table is one of those tools that just makes joinery easier. It gives you solid support, better control over your cuts, and it’s great for getting repeatable results — especially when you’re working on joints that need to line up perfectly every time.

In my workshop, I built a compact portable router table that serves as a base for multiple jig add-ons. That modular setup lets me switch between a box joint jig, spline jig, and tenon jig (and more) depending on the project — without building a new jig from scratch every time.

🔗 Step-by-step guide and Plans available if you want to build one: Benchtop Router Table

Next up are two of my favorite router table jigs for cabinet joinery — the Box Joint Jig and the Spline Jig. Let’s start with the box joints.

📌 Want to learn how modular jig systems work? Check out How to Build Modular Woodworking Jigs for Versatility to see how a single base can serve multiple purposes.

7. Router Table Box Joint Jig

Perfect for making strong, repeatable joints in drawers and cabinet boxes

This jig is my go-to for making clean, tight box joints. I mainly use it when building drawers or open cabinet boxes — anywhere I need a strong mechanical joint that also looks good. It’s one of those jigs that, once it’s dialed in, saves a lot of time and gives consistent results.

The jig is designed to fit my router table setup. It locks into position on the table and holds the workpiece vertically. The cutting position is guided by a pin that matches the width of the bit, so the spacing stays accurate the whole way through. I’m using a 6mm bit for this one, but you can easily modify it for other sizes.

What I like most is that it’s reliable. You clamp the piece, run the cut, shift over, and repeat. And because it’s mounted to the table, everything stays square and stable.

📌 You can check out the full build and the plans here: Router Table Box Joint Jig

8. Router Table Spline Jig

Adds strength and a clean look to miters in cabinet frames and boxes

I use this jig mostly when I’m reinforcing mitered corners — for example, in cabinet frames, decorative boxes, or even angled drawer fronts. A spline not only makes the joint stronger, it also adds a nice visual detail that can stand out if you use contrasting wood.

The jig is built to slide over my router table and lock around the tabletop. It holds the workpiece at a 45° angle, letting the router bit cut clean spline slots right through the joint. The key here is keeping everything aligned — and this jig makes that easy.

Like the box joint jig, it’s designed for a 6mm bit and built to match the dimensions of my router table. You can tweak it for your setup with different fences or bit sizes.

📌 Full build and plans here: Router Table Spline Jig

Comparison Table: Router Jigs for Cabinet Making

Router jigs can do a lot of the heavy lifting in cabinet making — from joinery to shaping to shelf construction. Below is a quick comparison to help you pick the right one for your build. Most of these jigs have plans available for download if you want to build them yourself.

Jig	Best For	Router Type	Adjustable
Adjustable Dado Jig	Cutting dados and rabbets	Plunge router	✅ Yes
Shelf Pin Jig	Drilling evenly spaced shelf holes	Handheld or plunge router	✅ Yes
Adjustable Template Guide	Cutouts, inlays, corners	Handheld router	✅ Yes
Router Mortising Jig	Horizontal and vertical mortises	Plunge router	✅ Yes
Router Circle Jig	Round cabinet panels, bases	Handheld router	✅ Yes
Router Table	General joinery and shaping	Table-mounted router with fence	⚠️ Base and fence
Box Joint Jig (for router table)	Finger joints in cabinets/boxes	Router table addon	✅ Yes
Spline Jig (for router table)	Strengthening miter joints	Router table addon	✅ Yes

Final Thoughts

A good set of router jigs can seriously level up your cabinet making. I use these jigs all the time — not just because they save time, but because they make the process more accurate and repeatable. That’s important whether you’re building a one-off cabinet or a full kitchen setup.

Routers are incredibly versatile, and with the right jigs, you can get pro-level results in a small workshop. You don’t need a big shop to get precise, repeatable cuts — just the right tools and a bit of setup. Modular jig setups let you do more with less space, which is exactly what I go for in my builds.

If you want to build any of these jigs, plans are available with step-by-step instructions, cutting lists, and both metric and imperial measurements.
🔗 Download woodworking jig plans

FAQ: Cabinet Jigs

What router do I need for cabinet making?

You can get great results with either a plunge router or a compact handheld router. For jigs like the mortising jig or dado jig, I use the DeWalt D26200. If you’re working with a router table, make sure your router can be mounted securely to a plate or base.

Can I build these jigs with basic tools?

Yes — most of these jigs can be built using a table saw, drill, and a router. Some jigs benefit from a bit more precision, but if you take your time and follow the plans, you’ll get there even without a full workshop.

Are these router jigs beginner-friendly?

Definitely. A few of them, like the dado jig and circle jig, are perfect starter projects. They’re simple to build and give you a big return in functionality. Others, like the mortising jig or box joint jig, require more setup but are very doable with guidance.

What materials do you recommend for building these jigs?

I mostly use Baltic birch plywood, MDF, and HDF. They’re flat, stable, and easy to work with. You want your jigs to be accurate and consistent — materials like construction-grade plywood or softwood boards often warp and throw things off.

Do I need all of these jigs for cabinet making?

Not at all. Start with one or two based on what you’re building. For example, if you’re adding adjustable shelves, go for the shelf pin jig. Building drawers? You’ll love the box joint jig. Once you see what you use the most, you can always add more later.

This post Essential Router Jigs for Cabinet Making (And How to Use Them) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

Best Router Jigs for Your Workshop (And Why You Need Them)

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 28 Aug 2025 07:00:00 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

Best Router Jigs for Your Workshop (And Why You Need Them)

If you use a router often, having the right jigs in your workshop can make a huge difference. Whether you’re cutting dados, routing clean circles, or working on joinery, the right jig helps you do it faster, safer, and with way more accuracy.

Routers are compact, powerful, and incredibly versatile — they don’t take up nearly as much space as a table saw, which makes them perfect for smaller workshops. With the right bits and a few good jigs, you can do everything from cutting precise joinery to shaping complex patterns. It’s honestly one of my favorite tools in the shop.

Over time, I’ve built and tested all kinds of router jigs. Some were simple, others more complex—but a handful of them stuck with me and became part of nearly every project. In this post, I’m sharing the router jigs I rely on most in my own workshop, and why I think every woodworker should consider building them too.

The list includes a mix of jigs for handheld routers and plunge routers with a base. Most of them also have detailed plans available for download if you want to build them yourself.

What Makes a Great Router Jig?
1. Adjustable Router Dado Jig
2. Adjustable Router Template Guide
3. Router Circle Jig
4. Router Table
5. Router Table Spline Jig (Add-on)
6. Router Table Box Joint Jig (Add-on)
7. Router Mortising Jig
Router Jigs Comparison Table
Final Thoughts
FAQ: Router Jigs and Usage

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What Makes a Great Router Jig?

A great router jig isn’t just about precision — it should actually make your workflow smoother. The best ones are the jigs you keep reaching for because they’re fast to set up, easy to adjust, and help you get repeatable results with less hassle.

I look for jigs that:

Are easy to set up and adjust
Make repeat cuts consistent
Fit both handheld and table-mounted routers when possible
Work with multiple bit sizes and materials

Routers are incredibly flexible tools, and a well-designed jig should match that flexibility. Whether I’m building furniture or working on something smaller like a cutting board, I rely on router jigs to do clean joinery, shape patterns, and even cut grooves or recesses.

If you’re especially interested in using router jigs for cutting boards, check out this guide on the best jigs for making cutting boards — it covers a few of my go-to builds for those types of projects.

1. Adjustable Router Dado Jig

This is hands down one of the most useful router jigs in my workshop — and also one of the most used. If you’re building cabinets, drawers, shelves, T-tracks, or boxes, you’ll likely need to cut dados or rabbets. I use this jig specifically for making clean and precise dadoes and rabbets, and occasionally even for mortises or clean cutouts.

My Setup
What makes this jig different is that it’s adjustable. This version is built for a 6mm straight router bit, but you can easily make another one for different bit sizes. The base is made from a thin MDF sheet to maximize the plunge depth of the router bit. The guide rails are aluminum, and the width is adjusted using simple wooden knobs.

You just set the jig to the exact width of your workpiece, lock it in place, and route the dado in a single clean pass. No test cuts, no bit swapping, no fiddling around.

I use it with a plunge router that slides smoothly along the guide rail. It’s quick to set up and delivers clean, repeatable results.

🔗 Plans available if you want to build your own — Adjustable Router Dado Jig Plans

2. Adjustable Router Template Guide

This is one of the most versatile router jigs I’ve built — and I use it a lot. Mainly for cutting out specific shapes, recessing hardware, cutting handles, shaping corners, or routing shallow pockets, this jig gives me the precision I need.

The key feature here is its adjustability. You can set the inner cutout to just about any shape within the jig’s range — typically squares and rectangles, but also trapezoids or even rhombuses depending on how you position the arms. The jig usually includes four adjustable arms, but you can detach one or two and use only what’s needed for a specific shape.

My Setup
This one is built for a 6mm straight router bit, but you can make another version for any bit size you use frequently. The base is made from thinner MDF to let you take full advantage of the bit’s plunge depth. The rails are made from plywood with cut T-Tracks for smooth adjustment, and you lock everything in place using wing nuts.

I mainly use it for precise cutouts, inlays, and small pieces where I want perfect consistency. Once the jig is clamped down, the router follows the template cleanly every time.

This jig saves a lot of setup time and removes the need to make a custom template for every shape.

🔗 Plans available if you want to build one — Adjustable Router Template Guide Plans

3. Router Circle Jig

This jig is my go-to whenever I need to cut clean, precise circles with a router. Whether I’m making round tabletops, bases, trays, or even smaller curved details, this one handles the job with ease.

It’s a simple design — just a pivoting arm mounted to a router base. Once the center point is fixed and the radius is set, the router follows the path smoothly for a perfect circle. You can also flip the jig over and use it as a compass to mark out circles before cutting.

My Setup
This version is designed for a handheld router and can handle a wide range of sizes depending on the arm length. I’ve used it for circles as small as 4 cm in diameter and as large as 80 cm without any issues. If you build a longer arm or a wider base, you can easily scale it up. The base is made from 6mm plywood to make the most of the bit’s plunge depth, and you can mount different-sized router bits depending on your needs.

I’m currently using it with my DeWalt router. But if you adjust the base (by drilling the correct hole pattern), you can easily use this jig with any router brand.

🔗 Plans available if you want to build one — Router Circle Jig Plans

4. Router Table

A router table is one of those workshop staples that opens up a whole new level of precision. It’s great for edge profiling, repeat cuts, joinery, and working with smaller parts more safely. I use mine constantly — it’s a key part of my setup, especially when paired with other jigs like the box joint, spline jig, or tenoning jig.

My Setup
My version is a compact benchtop router table that fits well even in a smaller shop. It’s built from plywood, and includes an adjustable fence, dust collection port, and MDF T-Tracks for attaching fences, featherboards, or stop blocks. The design keeps things stable but still easy to move around if needed.

Router: DeWalt-D26204k
Tabletop: 21mm plywood (2 layers)
Fence: Adjustable with T-tracks
Add-ons: Compatible with box joint, tenont,a nd spline jigs
Dust collection: Rear port behind the fence

What I really like about this build is that it’s modular. You can upgrade it later with various jigs and accessories — I use mine with both the box joint jig and spline jig, which attach around the table and slide across the surface.

🔗 Plans available if you want to build this router table — Router Table Plans

5. Router Table Spline Jig (Add-on)

This spline jig is a simple but powerful add-on to the router table. I use it for reinforcing miter joints on picture frames, boxes, and small cases — not just for strength, but also to add a nice visual detail with contrasting wood splines.

My Setup
This one was built specifically to fit my benchtop router table, so it locks around the table and slides back and forth. The base is made from MDF, so it glides smoothly across the router table surface, while the runners are made from spruce wood. The upright construction that holds the workpiece — along with the adjustable stoppers — is made from Baltic birch plywood.

The jig is designed for a 6mm straight router bit, but you can easily adapt it for different sizes. You can also adjust the cut depth and position depending on your project, and even repeat the cut multiple times to create decorative spline patterns.

It doesn’t take long to build, and once you have it, it makes angled joinery faster, cleaner, and more consistent — especially on smaller pieces that aren’t safe to run on the table saw.

🔗 Plans available if you want to build one — Router Table Spline Jig Plans

6. Router Table Box Joint Jig (Add-on)

This box joint jig is another add-on for the router table that sees regular use in my shop. It’s perfect for making clean, repeatable box joints — great for drawers, small boxes, trays, or even shop storage bins.

My Setup
The jig slides across the router table and uses a simple indexing system to create evenly spaced fingers. This one is designed for a 6mm straight router bit, which matches the width of the indexing pin made from oak. The pin guides the spacing, and once it’s set up, you can quickly go through your cuts.

Like the spline jig, this one is built to fit my benchtop router table. The base is MDF, so it slides easily across the plywood surface, and the runners are spruce wood. The vertical fence is a combination of MDF for the back and plywood for the front — sturdy enough to support the piece but light enough to handle.

It’s a great jig to have on hand if you do box work often, and it’s safer and more controlled than using a dado blade on the table saw — especially for smaller parts.

🔗 Plans available if you want to build one — Router Table Box Joint Jig

7. Router Mortising Jig

When I need clean, repeatable mortises, this is the jig I reach for. It’s designed to hold the workpiece securely at any angle and guide the router through smooth, controlled cuts — perfect for building frames, furniture, or leg-and-rail joints.

My Setup
The jig mounts to the workbench and is clamped down for stability. The workpiece is attached to a vertical T-track fence that can hold it horizontally, vertically, or anywhere in between. Track clamps make it easy to lock the piece at the right angle.

The plunge router is mounted on a small table that sits between two side rails. These guide rails allow the router to move side-to-side smoothly. Two wooden knobs at the back let me shift the router table front-to-back and lock it in place — giving me control over the width of the mortise.

To adjust the length, I use two stop blocks positioned along the side rails. With both adjustments in place, I can dial in the exact size of the mortise and repeat the cut as many times as needed.

This jig combines Baltic birch plywood, MDF/HDF for the router table surface, wooden knobs, and wing nuts. It’s more involved to build than some others, but if you do a lot of joinery, it’s worth it.

🔗 Plans available if you want to build one — Router Mortising Jig Plans

Router Jigs Comparison Table

Below is a quick comparison of all 7 router jigs covered in this article—highlighting their main purpose, what kind of projects they’re best for, and how often I use them.

Jig	Main Use	Router Type	Build Complexity	Adjustability	Plans Available
Adjustable Router Dado Jig	Dados, rabbets, occasional mortises	Plunge	Easy	✔ Yes	✔ Yes
Adjustable Router Template Guide	Cutouts, inlays, hardware recesses	Handheld	Moderate	✔ Yes	✔ Yes
Router Circle Jig	Circles (4–80 cm), tabletop bases, trays	Handheld	Easy	✔ Radius	✔ Yes
Router Table	General routing, edge work, joinery	Mounted	Moderate	✔ Fence	✔ Yes
Router Table Spline Jig	Spline joints on frames and boxes	Mounted	Easy	✔ Depth/position	✔ Yes
Router Table Box Joint Jig	Box/drawer joints	Mounted	Easy	✔ Pin system	✔ Yes
Router Mortising Jig	Mortises for furniture and joinery	Plunge (guided)	Advanced	✔ Width + length	✔ Yes

📌 Note: Frequency rating is based on my personal use in a small workshop setting. Your priorities may vary based on the types of projects you build.

💡 Ready to build your own jigs?
Download the exact plans I use in my workshop—most of the jigs listed above are available with full diagrams, materials, and video links.
➜ See All Jig Plans Here

Final Thoughts

I’ve always enjoyed working with a router. It’s one of those tools that gives you clean, precise results without taking up much space — which makes it perfect for a small workshop like mine. With the right jigs and a few good bits, you can do a surprising amount of work: dados, mortises, joinery, shaping, and more.

The router jigs I shared above are the ones I reach for the most. Some are simple builds, others a bit more involved, but each one has earned a spot in my workflow because it actually helps me get better results — faster and more consistently.

If you’re thinking about building one (or more) of these, most have downloadable plans to help you get started. And if you’re new to router jigs, even adding just one to your setup can open up a lot of new possibilities.

FAQ: Router Jigs and Usage

What kind of router do I need for these jigs?

Most of these jigs work with a plunge router or compact handheld router. For router table jigs, you’ll need a router that can be mounted to a table or insert plate. I use the DeWalt D26200.

Can I build these jigs without a router table?

Yes, many of them are made for handheld or plunge routers, like the dado jig, template guide, or circle jig. That said, having a router table opens the door to box joints, splines, and more advanced setups.

What materials should I use to build router jigs?

I typically use a mix of Baltic birch plywood, MDF or HDF, and sometimes spruce or oak for small parts like knobs or pins. You can read more in my guide to the best materials for woodworking jigs.

How do I attach the router to these jigs?

Some jigs require drilling holes to match your router’s base. Others use a universal mounting plate or adjustable clamps. I recommend dedicating a small base plate for jig use if you switch often.

Do I need special router bits for these jigs?

Not necessarily. A good 6mm or 8mm straight bit will work with most of these. But depending on your project, you may also use spiral bits, pattern bits, or guide bushings.

This post Best Router Jigs for Your Workshop (And Why You Need Them) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

Simple Router Slab Flattening Jig (Step-by-Step with Pictures)

About the author, Lukas — Mon, 19 Jun 2023 18:46:24 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

Simple Router Slab Flattening Jig (Step-by-Step with Pictures)

If you don’t have access to a planer or CNC machine, you can still get perfectly flat surfaces using a simple jig called a slab flattening jig (also known as a router sled). I’ve been using this setup for everything from cutting boards to larger slabs, and it works surprisingly well.

It’s especially useful when working with pieces that don’t fit into a benchtop planer or drum sander. Instead of struggling with uneven surfaces, you can flatten them accurately using just a router and a simple jig.

The great thing is that this build is easy, affordable, and fully customizable. You can size it exactly for your projects — whether that’s small cutting boards or larger table slabs — and it can be taken apart and stored when not in use.

👉 If you’re working on cutting boards, this is one of those essential jigs. You can check out more builds like this in my Best Jigs for Making Cutting Boards guide. I also now offer premium woodworking plans for selected cutting board jigs and bundles if you want the more complete version of the builds.

In this article, I’ll walk you through the step-by-step process of building your own router sled for flattening slabs and cutting boards. Let’s get started and turn those uneven surfaces into smooth, flat results.

RELATED:

Multi-Purpose Router Base – The base is attached to the trim router and slides over the flattening jig’s guide rails.

DIY Router Sled for Flattening Slabs

If you want to see how it is done, watch the video below for a step-by-step guide on how to make a simple router sled.

I appreciate every YouTube subscriber. It’s free and easy to subscribe to — just Click Here To Subscribe. Thank you!

DIY Flattening Jig Video
Router Flattening Jig Plans
The Material you will need
General Questions
1. Benefits of a Router Sled
2. Slab Flattening Router Bit
How to Build a Router Slab Flattening Jig (Step-by-Step)
1. Step 1: Make the Base
2. Step 2: Make the Side Rails
3. Step 3: Attach the Rails to the Base
4. Step 4: Build the Router Carriage
How to Use a Router Sled for Flattening Surfaces
Conclusion
FAQ
Woodworking Jigs I used to build it

*Safety is your responsibility. Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first!

Router Flattening Jig Plans

If you want the more complete version of the plans, I also now offer premium woodworking plans and bundles for selected cutting board jigs. This flattening jig is also part of my larger cutting board workflow, so if you’re building cutting boards regularly, that’s a good place to start too.

Download the free Router Flattening Jig Plans here

Download free plans here

The material you will need to build it

Router Sled
Sheet of plywood for the rails (stands) – 12 mm, 9 mm – https://amzn.to/3TPULp2
MDF/HDF Base Board – 760 mm x 515 mm x 16 mm (29.92″ x 20.28″ x 0.63″)
HDF Strips for T-slots
Aluminum Square Tube (20 x 20mm) – https://amzn.to/3NUKELW

Other:
Slab Flattening Router Bit – https://amzn.to/4aMQp8v
Forstner Bits – https://amzn.to/3Hd1aDb
Wood Glue – https://amzn.to/48ltKhJ
Sandpaper Sheets – https://amzn.to/41OMx2p
Sanding Discs – https://amzn.to/4aGaY6r
M6 Bolts, Washers, T-Nuts, Wood Screws – https://amzn.to/41PodgQ

DIY Tools:
DIY Multi-Purpose Router Base
DIY T-track Bolts
DIY T-track Clamps

Tools:
Trim Router – https://amzn.to/3HbQcOg
Circular Saw – https://amzn.to/4aMD0xg
Cordless Hand Drill – https://amzn.to/3HqLEnH
Table Saw – https://amzn.to/47mWiGf
Orbital Sander – https://amzn.to/48G9cjL
Guide Rail Clamps – https://amzn.to/3tEKaCW
One Hand Clamps – https://amzn.to/48jGxkZ
F-Clamps – https://amzn.to/48ArzY1
Hold Down Clamps – https://amzn.to/3RJPEEf
Narex Chisels – https://amzn.to/3tHNJrT
Tape Measure – https://amzn.to/3TN0SKM

Check all the Tools I Use

We may earn an affiliate commission when you buy something through our retail links. As an Amazon Associate AllFlavor Workshop earns from qualifying purchases.

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Benefits of a Router Sled

A router sled is one of the most practical ways to flatten wood when you don’t have access to large machines. I use it regularly for both cutting boards and larger slabs, and it’s one of those jigs that quickly proves its value in the workshop.

Here are the main advantages:

Cost-Effective Solution: Building your own slab flattening jig is much cheaper than buying a planer or CNC setup, while still delivering great results.
Minimal Materials Required: You only need a few basic materials like MDF and plywood to build a solid and reliable jig.
Works for Any Size: From small cutting boards to large slabs — you can scale the jig to match your project.
Great for Difficult Pieces: Warped, twisted, or uneven boards can be flattened accurately, even when machines struggle.
Portable and Easy to Store: The modular design allows you to disassemble the jig and store it when not in use.

Tool	Best For	Max Size	Cost	Flexibility
Router Sled	Slabs, cutting boards, irregular shapes	Virtually unlimited	Low	★★★★★
Thickness Planer	Straight boards, batch work	Limited by machine width	Medium–High	★★★☆☆
CNC Machine	Precision surfacing, production	Machine-dependent	Very High	★★★★☆

A router sled is one of the most flexible and affordable ways to flatten slabs and cutting boards in a small workshop.

Slab Flattening Router Bit

When flattening wood with a router sled, choosing the right bit makes a big difference. You can use a standard straight bit, but for better results and efficiency, there are bits designed specifically for surfacing.

These are the two most common options:

1. Double Flute Straight Router Bit

Price: Usually affordable ($20–$40)
Best For: Rough leveling and general use
Why use it:
- Removes material quickly
- Works well for both softwood and hardwood
- Can be used for other tasks like dados and mortises

👉 This is a good starting option if you already have one in your shop.

2. Spoilboard Surfacing Router Bit

Price: Higher ($60–$100)
Best For: Final surfacing and clean finishes
Why use it:
- Larger cutting diameter = fewer passes
- Leaves a smoother surface
- Designed specifically for flattening

👉 If you plan to use your slab flattening jig often, this is the better long-term choice.

If you’re just starting, a straight bit will get the job done.
But if you want cleaner results and faster work — especially for cutting boards and larger slabs — a spoilboard surfacing bit is definitely worth it.

Let's start building!

Building a router sled is a straightforward project that consists of three main parts: the base (including T-tracks), the side rails, and the router carriage.

What I like about this design is that it’s modular and easy to adjust. You can assemble it when needed, take it apart for storage, and adapt it to different project sizes — from small cutting boards to larger slabs.

In this build, I’m reusing my multi-purpose router base, which makes the setup quick and compatible with different routers. Once everything is put together, you’ll have a simple but very effective jig that lets you flatten uneven surfaces accurately and consistently.

Router Sled Properties:

Material: Baltic birch plywood, MDF/HDF
Total dimensions: 760 mm × 515 mm × 80 mm (29.92″ × 20.28″ × 3.15″)
Clamping: DIY T-track clamps

NOTE: When flattening wood, a plunge router is usually the better option — it gives you better control, stability, and safer depth adjustments. I use this jig a lot when flattening cutting boards before sanding and finishing.

How to Build a Router Flattening Jig (Step-by-Step)

Step 1: Make the Base

Start by cutting the base to size. I used a 16 mm MDF (HDF) panel, which provides a flat, stable surface that won’t warp easily — this is important for accurate flattening.

You can cut the panel on a table saw, but a circular saw with a straight guide works just as well (like I did). The key is to get clean, straight edges, as the base defines the overall accuracy of the jig.

Next, mark out the T-tracks on the base. These will be used for clamping your workpiece and adjusting the setup. Cut the slots using a trim router and a straight edge or a dado-cutting jig.

NOTE: Do not cut the slots all the way to the edge. Stop slightly before the ends and create wider access openings — this makes it easier to insert clamps from the top.

After routing the slots, sand them smooth and square the ends using a chisel.

To create the T-track shape, glue thin HDF strips along the outer edges of the slots. Use a small amount of glue and make sure it doesn’t squeeze into the center track.

TIP: Reinforce the strips with screws. Make sure all screw heads sit flush with the surface, so they don’t interfere with the router movement.

RELATED: This jig uses my homemade T-track system to hold the workpiece in place. If you want to build the tracks the same way, check out my guide on How to Make Homemade DIY T-tracks.

Step 2: Make the Side Rails

Start by cutting four plywood strips (45 mm wide, 12 mm thick) and glue them together in pairs. This creates two thicker rails that will provide enough rigidity for the sled.

Reinforce the glue joints with screws to make sure the rails stay straight and stable over time.

Next, cut two additional plywood strips (55 mm wide, 9 mm thick). These will serve as the base supports that attach the rails to the main board.

Before assembling everything, drill 6 mm holes into the base support strips — two holes on each side. This step is important for aligning the rails correctly with the base later on.

TIP: It’s best to drill these holes before gluing the rails. You can place the strips on the base and drill through them to ensure the holes line up perfectly.

💡NOTE: Make sure both rails are the same height — this is critical for keeping the router level during flattening.

Once the holes are prepared, glue and attach the rails vertically onto the base support strips. This creates a rigid rail structure that will later guide the router carriage.

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Step 3: Attach the Rails to the Base

Turn the base upside down and prepare the mounting holes for the rails. Using a Forstner bit, enlarge the holes slightly so the T-nuts can sit flush with the surface.

Insert the T-nuts into the base, then position the side rails and attach them using M6 bolts.

Before tightening everything fully, check that both rails are perfectly level. This is a critical step — the router carriage will ride on these rails, so any difference in height will directly affect the flatness of your workpiece. This is similar to using a jointer sled, where proper alignment is key to getting straight and accurate results.

TIP: If the rails are not perfectly even, use thin shims (paper, tape, or veneer) under one side to fine-tune the height. Take your time with this step — getting the rails level is what makes the difference between a good jig and a great one.

Once everything is aligned and level, tighten the bolts securely.

Step 4: Build the Router Carriage

The router carriage is what allows the router to move smoothly across the workpiece. There are different ways to build it — you can either create a box that holds the router, or use a rail-based design.

In this build, I’m using a rail-based carriage, which works well with my multi-purpose router base and keeps the setup simple and flexible.

Start by cutting two aluminum square tubes to length. The tubes should be longer than the width of the sled, so they can rest securely on the side rails.

Drill a 6 mm hole on each end of both tubes. It helps to slightly widen the holes to allow for easier adjustment during assembly.

Next, cut two plywood runners. These will sit on the side rails and support the aluminum tubes.

Decide on the spacing between the tubes (I used 50 mm) and drill matching holes in the runners. Insert T-nuts into the runners so you can attach the tubes with bolts.

💡NOTE: The spacing between the tubes should be wide enough to support the router securely and allow room for the router bit.

Attach the aluminum tubes to the runners using bolts and align them so they are perfectly perpendicular to the rails.

Once aligned, tighten everything securely. Take a moment to test the movement before tightening everything — smooth sliding is key for consistent flattening. You can also add small stop blocks if you want to easily disassemble and reassemble the carriage later. So once you assemble it again, the rails stay perpendicular.

TIP: The carriage should fit snugly over the rails with no side-to-side movement, but still slide smoothly without resistance. You can lighty sand the fences for a better slide.

And this is what the finished slab flattening sled looks like.

How to Use a Router Sled for Flattening Surfaces

Once the sled is built, using it is straightforward. The key is to work slowly and remove material in thin layers to get a smooth and consistent result. I use this setup all the time when flattening cutting boards before sanding and finishing.

Secure the Router
Attach the router firmly to the carriage. Make sure everything is tight and there is no wobble.
Fix the Workpiece in Place
Place your slab or cutting board on the base and secure it using clamps or stop blocks. The piece must not move during the process.
Set the Cutting Depth
Lower the router so the bit just touches the highest point of the surface. Then set a shallow cutting depth — it’s better to remove a small amount of material per pass.
Start Flattening
Move the router back and forth across the surface while gradually shifting side to side. Work in overlapping passes to ensure the entire surface is evenly flattened.
Flip and Repeat
Once one side is flat, flip the workpiece and repeat the process on the other side.
Finish the Surface
After flattening, I usually sand the surface using a sanding block to remove tool marks and prepare it for finishing.

TIP: Use a router with variable speed for better control, especially when working with larger bits or hardwood.

NOTE: Take your time — removing too much material at once can cause tear-out, burn marks, or uneven results.

Conclusion

A slab flattening jig is one of those tools that really expands what you can do in a small workshop. You don’t need a large planer or CNC machine — with a simple router sled, you can achieve flat and smooth surfaces on almost any piece of wood.

What I like most about this setup is its flexibility. You can build it to any size, adjust it to your needs, and use it for everything from small cutting boards to large slabs. Once you have it, you’ll find yourself reaching for it more often than you might expect.

I use this jig regularly when working on cutting boards, especially when flattening glued panels before sanding and finishing. It’s a simple solution, but it makes a big difference in the final result.

👉 If you’re building cutting boards, this is one of the essential jigs to have. You can check out more tools like this in my Best Jigs for Making Cutting Boards guide, and if you want the more complete version of the builds, you can also browse my woodworking plans page.

FAQ

Do I need a router sled to flatten wood?

Not necessarily. If you have access to a planer or CNC machine, you can use those instead. But a router sled is one of the most affordable and flexible ways to flatten slabs and cutting boards, especially in a small workshop.

Can I flatten a cutting board with a router sled?

Yes, absolutely. A router sled works very well for flattening cutting boards, especially glued panels that are slightly uneven. It’s a reliable way to get a flat surface before sanding and finishing.

What router bit should I use for flattening?

You can use a straight router bit, but a spoilboard surfacing bit is the better option. It removes material faster and leaves a smoother surface, which is especially helpful for larger slabs and cutting boards.

How deep should each pass be when flattening?

Keep each pass shallow — usually around 1–2 mm. Taking off too much material at once can lead to tear-out, burn marks, or uneven results.

Can I build a slab flattening jig without a table saw?

Yes. You can build the entire jig using a circular saw with a straight guide, or even hand tools for some parts. Precision is important, but you don’t need a full workshop setup.

Woodworking Jigs I used in this project:

These are the tools and jigs I have used to build it. Not all of them are necessary but they make life easier:

This post Simple Router Slab Flattening Jig (Step-by-Step with Pictures) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

Simple Router Mortising Jig: Step-by-Step Tutorial

About the author, Lukas — Thu, 25 May 2023 10:54:11 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

Simple Router Mortising Jig: Step-by-Step Tutorial

In woodworking, the mortise and tenon joint reigns supreme as one of the strongest joints available. When it comes to cutting precise mortises, you can’t go wrong with a trusty plunge router. The key is to make sure those mortises are straight, clean, and parallel to the workpiece faces. To accomplish these objectives, an adjustable router mortising jig becomes indispensable.

A router mortising jig simplifies the process by enabling you to set stops, securely attach and adjust the workpiece, and consistently and repeatably achieve perfect mortises. In this article, I will provide step-by-step instructions on how to make your own mortise jig. The jig is portable and allows for easy attachment to any workbench using clamps, making it an ideal solution for those with limited workshop space.

For this project, I will be mainly using plywood and MDF as primary materials. These types of wooden boards are favored for their strength, durability, and resistance to bending under pressure. However, if you prefer, hardwood such as oak or beech can also be used as an alternative material.

Let’s get started!

RELATED:

How to Make a Router Mortising Jig Video

If you want to see how it is done, watch the video below for a step-by-step guide on how to make a router mortise jig.

I appreciate every YouTube subscriber. It’s free and easy to subscribe to — just Click Here To Subscribe. Thank you!

Mortising Jig Video
The Material you will need
General Questions
1. Benefits of a Router Mortising Jig
2. Advantages of Mortise and Tenon Joint
3. Mortise Router Bit
How to Make a Router Mortising Jig
1. Step 1: Make the Clamping Fence
2. Step 2: Make the Mortising Jig Body
3. Step 3: Make the Router Base Plateau
4. Step 4: Assemble the Mortising Jig
How to Use a Router Mortising Jig
Woodworking Jigs Used

*Safety is your responsibility. Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first!

Material you will need to make a Router Mortise Jig

Mortise Jig
Fence – Plywood – 265 mm x 130 mm x 24 mm – https://amzn.to/3TPULp2
HDF Strips for t-slot matrix
Body – Ply – 265 mm x 100 mm x 24 mm
Square Supports – Ply 2x – 80 mm x 50 mm x 12 mm
Base – Ply – 350 mm x 100 mm x 9 mm
Base – Ply – 305 mm x 225 mm x 5 mm
Ply strips for the router table

Other:
Wood Glue – https://amzn.to/48ltKhJ
Epoxy – https://amzn.to/3tJ5R4L
Sandpaper Sheets – https://amzn.to/41OMx2p
Painters Tape
Wood Screws, Square Nuts, T-nuts – https://amzn.to/41PodgQ
DIY T-track Bolts
DIY Star Knobs

Check all the Tools I Use

We may earn an affiliate commission when you buy something through our retail links. As an Amazon Associate AllFlavor Workshop earns from qualifying purchases.

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Benefits of a Router Mortising Jig

A router mortising jig is a game-changer when it comes to cutting mortises accurately and efficiently. These are the key benefits of using a router mortising jig:

Repeatability: A router mortising jig ensures consistent and repeatable mortises, allowing you to achieve uniform results throughout your woodworking projects. Each mortise you create using this simple jig will match the exact specifications.
Accuracy: The jig allows you to achieve unparalleled accuracy in your mortises. Its design, combined with its adjustable features and guide systems, ensures that each cut is made in the right place.
Easy Setup: Setting up the jig is very simple. The jig consists of a simple base and adjustable components that allow you to position and secure your workpiece with ease.
Versatility: The jig offers versatility in creating mortises of various sizes and shapes. Whether you need to make square, rectangular, or even curved mortises, the jig’s adjustability and guide systems can accommodate different routing requirements.

Advantages of Mortise and Tenon Joint

The mortise and tenon joint is a woodworking technique that offers numerous advantages for sturdy and reliable connections.

Superior Strength: The mortise and tenon joint provides exceptional strength and durability, making it ideal for load-bearing structures such as furniture and frames. This joint ensures long-lasting and secure connections.
Enhanced Stability: With its interlocking design, the joint offers excellent stability, minimizing the risk of wobbling or shifting over time. This stability is crucial for maintaining the structural integrity of the project.
Increased Load Capacity: Thanks to its robust construction, the joint can bear heavy loads without compromising its integrity. This advantage makes it well-suited for applications that require supporting substantial weight, such as tables or cabinets
Versatile Design: The joint is versatile and adaptable, allowing for various configurations. Whether it’s a through mortise, blind mortise, or wedged tenon, you can customize the joint to suit your design needs.

Mortise Router Bit

When it comes to cutting mortises with precision and efficiency, choosing the right router bit is crucial. There are two popular options for mortising – the straight-edge router bit and the spiral up-cut router bit. Let’s take a look at their advantages, use, and purpose.

1. Straight Edge Router Bit

Advantage: The straight-edge router bit is a go-to choice for clean and accurate mortises. Its straight cutting edge ensures precise and straight-sided cuts, resulting in tight-fitting joints.
Use and Purpose: This router bit is commonly used for creating traditional square or rectangular mortises. It excels in applications where a clean and precise edge is required, such as furniture joinery and cabinetry.

2. Spiral Upcut Router Bit

Advantage: The spiral up-cut router bit is renowned for its excellent chip evacuation properties. Its spiral design effectively removes debris and prevents clogging, resulting in smoother cuts and reduced heat buildup.
Use and Purpose: This router bit is particularly useful when working with materials that tend to produce a lot of chips or shavings, such as softwoods and composites. It is also well-suited for plunge routing operations and creating deep mortises.

Let's start building!

Making a router jig for mortises involves making the adjustable base for the router and the clamping fence (upright assembly) for workpiece attachment.

Securing the workpiece in the router mortising jig is quick and straightforward, taking just a few seconds. The jig’s back fence features a convenient t-slot matrix, allowing you to use homemade t-track clamps or shop track clamps for added versatility.

With the ability to accommodate various thicknesses and widths of workpieces, this jig enables you to cut mortises in different orientations—horizontally, vertically, or at any desired angle. It even handles more complex mortises, such as double mortises, parallel mortises, and mortises in round stock. This makes it an excellent project for those with limited workspace, offering a space-saving solution without compromising functionality.

Router Mortise Jig properties:

Material: Baltic birch plywood, HDF, Wooden Knobs
Total dimensions: 350mm x 225mm x 125mm
Maximum mortise dimension: 100mm

How to Make a Router Mortising Jig

Step 1: Make the Clamping Fence

To begin constructing the router mortise jig, the first step is crafting the back clamping fence. This fence acts as a sturdy support for the workpieces and is designed with a t-slot matrix, allowing easy attachment of clamps. It is positioned perpendicular to the router base.

To create the clamping fence, start by cutting two plywood boards measuring 13×26.5cm. You can use either a table saw or a circular saw with a straight-edge guide. Next, glue the boards together. Draw the t-slot matrix pattern on the surface of the fence. To cut the slots, use a router dado guide, which will help you achieve precise and uniform results.

Additionally, cut thin strips of HDF and glue them into the slots, forming a t-track matrix for attaching clamps.

TIP: Use an orbital sander to round the edges and flatten the surface.

Step 2: Make the Mortising Jig Body

To ensure the clamping fence remains perpendicular to the router’s jig base, it’s crucial to create a supporting body where the adjustable router base will be installed.

Begin by applying glue to the clamping fence and firmly attaching it to a plywood board measuring 265mm x 100mm x 24mm. Use corner clamps or a machinist square to ensure the boards are perpendicular to each other. For added stability and a secure connection, insert screws into the joints and reinforce the structure with plywood squares.

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Step 3: Make the Router Base Plateau

Now let’s make the router base plateau. It is constructed using HDF and attached on top of the jig body. HDF is an intentional choice for the router table due to its strength, straightness, flatness, and smooth surface, which allows for easy sliding of the router.

To begin, cut a square hole in the base. You can use a jigsaw, but for a more precise cut, you can use a router square template guide. Next, glue plywood strips on top of the HDF desk, using the router’s base as a reference to ensure a perfect fit.

To incorporate the side stop blocks, drill holes on each side of the base. Flip the base upside down and carve either a hexagon or square shape to accommodate a nut. Apply epoxy to securely glue the nuts in place, providing a permanent attachment.

Lastly, cut two slots through the base, allowing for attachment to the jig body and providing the flexibility to adjust it as needed.

Step 4: Assemble the Mortising Jig

When assembling the various components of the mortise jig, make sure the fence and router plateau are perpendicular to each other, while the jig body and plateau remain parallel.

Begin by securely gluing two plywood strips to the bottom of the plateau, ensuring a snug fit around the jig body. This step enables smooth back-and-forth sliding of the router table during operation.

Next, drill two corresponding holes in the jig body that align with the router table slots. Flip the body upside down and insert two t-nuts from the bottom, providing a secure anchoring point for the router table.

Apply glue to the bottom of the square supports, and carefully attach the body to a base strip. This setup allows for easy attachment of the mortise jig to the workbench using clamps. Lastly, add the side stops and mount the router table onto the body using wooden knobs.

This is what the finished router mortising jig looks like

How to Use a Router Mortising Jig

When using a router mortising jig, it’s important to follow proper techniques to ensure accurate and clean cuts. Here’s a step-by-step guide:

Securely place the router mortising jig on a workbench and use clamps to tightly fasten it in position.
Position the workpiece against the fence of the jig, and utilize t-track bolts and hold-down clamps to firmly secure it in place. Ensure that the center of the mortise aligns with the center mark on the router table.
Install the appropriate router bit into the plunge router and place it onto the router table.
Adjust the router plateau as necessary to locate the center of the mortise, and once positioned, tighten the wooden knobs to secure it in place.
Set the side stop blocks to establish the desired depth and width of the mortise, ensuring consistent and repeatable cuts.
Begin the cutting process by making multiple passes, gradually removing around 5mm of material with each pass. This technique prevents burn marks, minimizes pressure on the router bit, and ensures sharp and clean cuts.

With the router mortising jig properly set and aligned, you can effortlessly create precise and repeatable mortises. This versatile tool also allows for cutting at various angles, including horizontal, vertical, and even into miters, expanding its applications in woodworking projects.

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How to Build a Mortising Jig for a Router

Woodworking Jigs I used to build it:

During the construction of the mortise jig, I utilized various woodworking jigs that facilitated the process. While not all of them are essential (almost none of them), they made the work much easier. However, there are multiple alternatives that can be employed.

This post Simple Router Mortising Jig: Step-by-Step Tutorial first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

How to Make a Router Circle Jig (Multi-Function Router Base Addon)

About the author, Lukas — Tue, 18 Apr 2023 12:31:14 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

How to Make a Router Circle Jig (Multi-Function Router Base Addon)

In this blog post, I will be sharing how to make a router circle jig for a multi-purpose router base that I previously built. A multi-purpose router jig is a tool used in woodworking with a trim router that can perform a wide range of tasks such as cutting dados, grooves, rabbets, mortises, flattening wooden surfaces, and even making homemade T-tracks. One of the things that make this jig particularly useful is its versatility.

When it comes to cutting circles in wood, there are several tools you can use such as a jigsaw, a circular saw, or a bandsaw. However, my preferred tool for this task is a router. The results are precise, and the edges come out clean. Additionally, you can easily adjust the diameter of the circle you want to cut, making it a great choice for both small and large circles.

There are two ways to cut a circle with the multi-function router jig:

You can attach an additional accessory to the multi-purpose router base using T-nuts. However, this method is limited in terms of the diameter of the circle it can cut, and should only be used for small diameters.
You can attach a prolonged arm to the multi-purpose router base. This method allows you to adjust the diameter of the circle you want to cut with an embedded scale ruler. The length of the arm determines the maximum diameter of the circle you can cut.

The benefits of the circle jig addon are that you will not need an additional standalone circle-cutting jig, it can be used to cut both small and large circles, and you can cut circles of an exact diameter using the embedded scale ruler. Moreover, it can be used with multiple different trim routers.

To make the route circle jig, you will need a plywood and MDF desk, which are easily available at any hardware store. These materials are strong and durable, making them an excellent choice for making woodworking jigs.

Keep reading to find out how to make a router circle jig for a multi-function router base, and how to use it.

RELATED:

DIY Router Circle Jig for a Router Base Video

If you want to see how it is done, watch the video below for a step-by-step guide on how to make a router circle jig addon for a multi-purpose router jig.

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Circle Jig for Router Video
Router Circle Jig Plans
The Material you will need
General Questions
1. What are the benefits of a DIY router circle jig?
2. What type of router bit should I use to cut circles with my router jig?
How to Make a Router Circle Jig Addon for a Multi-Function Router Base
1. Step 1: Prepare the router base
2. Step 2: Make the Circle Extendable Arm
3. Step 3: Make the Slider
4. Step 4: Attach the Circle Arm to the Base
5. Step 5: Attach the Self-adhesive Scale Ruler
How to Cut a Circle in Wood with a Router Circle Jig Addon
Woodworking Jigs Used

*Safety is your responsibility. Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first!

Router Circle Jig Plans for a Multi-Purpose Router Base

Download the Router Circle Jig Plans here

Download plans here

What you'll need to make a Router Circle Cutting Jig Addon

Multi-function Router Base
How to make a Multi-Function Router Base

Circle Jig Addon
Plywood 1x – 290 mm x 60 mm x 6,5 mm
MDF 1x – 250 mm x 60 mm x 5 mm

Check all the Tools I Use

Tools:
Trim Router – https://amzn.to/3HbQcOg
Corded Hand Drill / Drill Press – https://amzn.to/3NSA3Bo
Hand Drill – https://amzn.to/3HqLEnH
Table Saw / Proxxon Mini Table Saw – https://amzn.to/47mWiGf
Japanese Ryoba Saw – https://amzn.to/48if4Qz
One Hand Clamps – https://amzn.to/48jGxkZ
Spring Clamps – https://amzn.to/41Nuh9D
Narex Chisels – https://amzn.to/3tHNJrT
Machinist Square / Speed Square

Other:
Wood Glue – https://amzn.to/48ltKhJ
Epoxy – https://amzn.to/3tJ5R4L
Sandpaper Sheets – https://amzn.to/41OMx2p
Drill bits – 6mm – https://amzn.to/48Kaaf7
Router bits – 6mm/4mm – https://amzn.to/3NQNDVX
Self-adhesive scale ruler – https://amzn.to/3TTjGZb
Aluminum bar, Brass rod 4mm – https://amzn.to/47s0eWc
Wing nuts, Square nuts, Washers, M6 bolts – https://amzn.to/41PodgQ

We may earn an affiliate commission when you buy something through our retail links. As an Amazon Associate AllFlavor Workshop earns from qualifying purchases.

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What are the benefits of a DIY router circle jig?

Increased precision: A router circle jig allows you to cut precise circles of varying sizes with ease. This precision is especially helpful for projects that require a specific size or shape.
Clean edges: The router’s blade is designed to make smooth, clean cuts that leave the edges of the circle looking professional and polished. This makes it a great tool for woodworking projects that require clean and precise edges.
Cost-effective: Making your own router circle jig can save you money compared to buying a pre-made one from a shop. With readily available materials like plywood and MDF, you can create a high-quality jig that is customized to your needs.
Versatility: With a router circle jig, you can cut circles of different sizes. You can use it to make decorative wooden pieces, cut holes in panels or boards, or create circular patterns.
Accuracy: The embedded scale ruler on the jig ensures that you can set the diameter of the circle you want to cut with precision. This means that you can create circles that are perfectly round and of the exact size that you need.

What type of router bit should I use to cut circles with my router jig?

When it comes to cutting circles with a router jig, the type of router bit you use can make a big difference. Here are two types of router bits that are commonly used for this purpose:

Straight bits: These bits have a flat bottom and are perfect for cutting circles with a consistent diameter. They come in a range of sizes, so you can easily choose the right one for your project. The benefits of using straight bits are their affordability, versatility, and precision. You can get a good quality straight bit at a reasonable price, and it can be used for a wide variety of other woodworking tasks, too.
Spiral bits: Spiral router bits are designed to remove material more quickly and smoothly than straight bits. They have a spiraling flute that helps to eject chips and keep the bit cool during use. Spiral bits can be a good choice for cutting circles in thicker materials or when you need to make a lot of cuts quickly. The benefits of using spiral bits are their speed, efficiency, and precision. While spiral bits can be more expensive than straight bits, they can save you time and effort in the long run, making them a good investment for serious woodworkers.

Let's start building!

As previously discussed, this is an add-on for a multi-purpose router base. It is assumed that you have already constructed the multi-purpose router jig.

Making a circle-cutting jig entails making an extendable arm, which consists of a t-track, an adjustable slider, and an embedded scale ruler.

Router circle jig properties:

Material: Baltic birch plywood, MDF, self-adhesive scale ruler
Total dimensions: 290mm x 60mm x 11.5mm (11.42 inches x 2.36 inches x 0.45 inches)
Total dimensions with router base: 405mm x 140mm x 140mm (15.94 inches x 5.51 inches x 5.51 inches)
Circle diameter: from 40mm to 420mm (1.57 inches to 16.54 inches)

This woodworking project is recommended for those with some experience in woodworking.

NOTE: The attachment to the multi-purpose router base is the most crucial aspect of this project. The joint experiences a lot of pressure while cutting a circle; thus, ensure that it is tightly secured.

How to Make a Router Circle Jig Addon for a Multi-Function Router Base

To begin building the circle jig, the first step is to disassemble all the parts of the multi-function router jig, leaving only the router base.

Step 1: Prepare the router base

To prepare the base for the circle-cutting jig, start by cutting out the plywood layer from the center of the base – do not throw it away. The cut-out width should be 5 cm, and it should be on the front part of the router base where the base is wider. You can use a Ryoba saw for this step, which will ensure clean and precise cuts.

NOTE: When building the multi-function router base, it’s best to avoid gluing the plywood and MDF layers on the front part of the base. This will make it much easier to make the cut-out and separate the two layers.

Turn the router base upside down and use a machinist square and ruler marking gauge to mark the position of the screws and nuts. Then, drill a 6mm hole and cut a square hole around the hole to insert the nuts.

When fixing the nut in the hole, use epoxy and make sure the nut is flush or just slightly sunk into the surface of the base. The nut should not protrude.

Step 2: Make the Circle Extendable Arm

To begin making the arm of the circle jig, start by cutting a piece of plywood and an MDF piece. These two pieces will be attached to the router base to form the arm of the circle jig.

The dimensions of the plywood piece are 290mm x 60mm x 6.5mm (11.4 inches by 2.4 inches by 0.26 inches), and the dimensions of the MDF piece are 250mm x 60mm x 5mm (9.8 inches by 2.4 inches by 0.2 inches). There are multiple ways to cut these strips, but I personally used a Proxxon mini table saw with a fence and crosscut sled.

To make a t-track in which the runner will move, you need to cut a slot in both the plywood and MDF strips. The slot in the MDF strip should be 15mm, while the slot in the plywood strip should be 6mm.

There are various ways to cut slots in wood – you can use a jigsaw, a coping saw, or a circular saw. My preferred method is to use a router dado jig.

Glue the plywood and MDF strips together. Ensure that no glue is present in the slot. If any glue is present, clean it thoroughly.

Once the glue has cured, cut a shallow slot on the top of the arm for the self-adhesive scale ruler. The slot should be just deep enough for the ruler to sit flush with the top of the arm.

Note, that the width of the arm is 60mm, while the hole on the router base is only 50mm. To fit the arm onto the base, you’ll need to cut 5mm from each side. I used a combination of a table saw and a hand saw to do this.

NOTE: Use sandpaper to get a nice fit between the arm and the base.

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Step 3: Make the Slider

For the slider, it is better to start with a piece of plywood with dimensions wider than the final product. The final dimensions of the slider should be 120mm x 15mm x 5mm.

The slider is responsible for running in the t-track. It contains a mechanism that sets the diameter of the circle and a pivoting pin, which is used to cut the circle.

To create the fixing mechanism and the pivoting pin, you need to cut three holes in the plywood piece. The outer holes have a diameter of 4mm, while the inner hole has a diameter of 6mm. Cut a hexagon shape around the inner hole to accommodate the bolt head. After finishing the holes, cut the plywood piece to its final size.

Next, apply epoxy to the center hole and insert a bolt, ensuring it is flush with the surface. Then, apply epoxy to the outer hole and insert a brass pin, ensuring that the bolt and pin face opposite directions.

NOTE: The brass pin protrudes around 4mm from the surface of the plywood piece.

Insert the slider into the t-track, and use epoxy to secure the pin in the last hole. This pin will help you read the values on the scale ruler and adjust the circle diameter. Keep in mind that a simple pin will work just as well as a fancy one, so do not worry too much about making it too elaborate. 😉

Step 4: Attach the Circle Arm to the Base

First, cut a 15mm slot in the MDF layer of the router base to allow the slider to move closer to the router bit, enabling you to cut smaller circles.

Next, place the circle arm onto the router base and secure it with screws and washers. At this point, the arm should be firmly attached to the router base, and the slider should move smoothly along the track.

Step 5: Attach the Self-adhesive Scale Ruler

Note that this jig should be used with one size router bit only. I am using it with a 6mm router bit.

Set an arbitrary diameter on the arm and cut out a circle. Measure the diameter from the cut material (not from the circle) and tape the self-adhesive scale ruler to the right position on the circle arm. In this case, when setting the circle diameter, you will know you are cutting the outer diameter. (If you would prefer you can set the scale ruler for the inner diameter of the circle).

If you need to use your router base for other projects, you can easily detach the circle arm from it. Simply remove the screws and washers that hold the arm in place. Once you have removed the arm, you can bridge the hole on the router base with the cutout piece. This will ensure that the base is level and smooth, and ready for your next project.

How to Cut a Circle in Wood with a Router Circle Jig Addon

If you want to cut a perfect circle in wood, the router circle jig addon is a great tool to have. Here are the steps to follow:

Attach the extendable router circle cutting jig to the multi-purpose router base with screws.
Set the diameter of the circle using the scale ruler on the arm and lock the pivoting pin in position.
Drill a hole in the workpiece and insert the pivoting pin.
Start the router and slowly deepen the router bit in the workpiece.
Cut the circle by turning the router jig around the pivoting point.
Once the circle is cut, wait until the router is fully stopped before removing the circle jig.

TIPS

Don’t cut too much material at once: When using a router circle jig, it’s important to take your time and make multiple shallow passes instead of trying to cut through the entire thickness of the material in one go. This helps to avoid putting too much pressure on the router bit, which can cause it to break or leave burn marks on the wood.
Use a mat below the workpiece: Placing a mat or other protective layer underneath your workpiece can help to prevent damage to your worktable or work surface as you cut the circle. T
Use double-sided tape to fix the circle while cutting: To ensure that your circle stays in place while you’re cutting, consider using double-sided tape to secure it to the workpiece. This can help to prevent the circle from moving or shifting as you cut, which can result in a more precise and accurate cut.

Conclusion

In conclusion, the router circle cutting jig is a versatile and affordable addition to any woodworking shop. Utilizing a multi-purpose router base in combination with the router circle jig will let you cut circles of various sizes with precision and accuracy. So, get your tools, and let’s get started!

DIY Router Circle Cutting Jig

Jigs used for this project:

This post How to Make a Router Circle Jig (Multi-Function Router Base Addon) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

How to Make a Multi-Purpose Router Jig (A Step-by-Step Guide)

About the author, Lukas — Fri, 07 Apr 2023 17:50:10 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

How to Make a Multi-Purpose Router Jig (A Step-by-Step Guide)

A multi-purpose router jig is one of the most versatile woodworking jigs you can have in your workshop. What makes it so useful is that it can be adapted for a wide range of tasks — from cutting dados, grooves, and rabbets to making mortises, flattening wooden surfaces, creating custom T-tracks, and even cutting circles.

I originally built this jig as a way to make custom T-tracks and improve the versatility of my trim router. Over time, it became one of my most-used router jigs. Today, I use it regularly as the upper carriage for my router flattening jig, but it also serves as a dado jig, mortising jig, circle-cutting jig, and general-purpose router guide.

One thing I really like about this build is that it replaces several dedicated jigs while taking up very little space in the workshop. Instead of building a separate jig for every task, you can start with this router base and add simple accessories as needed.

The jig is made from Baltic birch plywood and MDF, which are two of my favorite materials for making woodworking jigs. They are strong, stable, easy to work with, and perfect for workshop projects like this.

This project is best suited for advanced beginners and intermediate woodworkers. It requires a bit more precision than some of my simpler jigs, but the result is a tool you’ll likely use for years.

If you want the more complete version of the build, I also now offer premium woodworking plans for selected workshop jigs and cutting board projects.

DIY Multi-Purpose Router Jig Video

Watch the video below to see the complete build process and some of the different ways you can use this multi-purpose router jig. I’ll show you how to build the router base, install the handles, make the guide rails, and use the jig for tasks like cutting dados, mortises, T-tracks, circles, and flattening wooden surfaces.

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Multi-purpose Router Jig Plans
The Material you will need
General Questions
1. What are the benefits of making a multi-purpose router jig?
How to Make a Multi-Purpose Router Jig
1. Step 1: Cut the Router Base Pieces
2. Step 2: Make the Handles
3. Step 3: Cut the MDF Router Base Desk
4. Step 4: Assemble the Router Base
5. Step 5: Attach the Handles
6. Step 6: Attach the Router to the Base
7. Step 7: Make Accessories for the Multi-Purpose Router Jig
What Can you do With a Multi-Purpose Router Jig
Woodworking jigs used for the project

*Safety is your responsibility. Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first!

Multi-Purpose Router Jig Plans

If you want the more complete version of the plans, I also now offer premium woodworking plans for selected workshop jigs and cutting board builds. This router jig is one of the most useful builds in my shop because it replaces several dedicated jigs while also working as the upper carriage for my router flattening setup.

Download the free Multi-Purpose Router Jig Plans here

Download free plans here

What You'll Need to Build the Multi-Purpose Router Jig

Here are the materials and tools I used to build this versatile router jig.

Router Base
Plywood 1x – 300 mm x 170 mm x 6 mm
MDF/HDF 1x – 300 mm x 170 mm x 6 mm – https://amzn.to/3S7vzt4

Handles
Plywood 2x – 100 mm x 30 mm x 27 mm – https://amzn.to/3TPULp2
M6 Bolts – 30 mm – https://amzn.to/41PodgQ

Router Base Guides (Base Attachments)
MDF 2x – 230 mm x 40 mm x 16 mm

Check all the Tools I Use

Tools:
Trim Router – https://amzn.to/3HbQcOg
Drill Press – https://amzn.to/3NSA3Bo
Hand Drill – https://amzn.to/3HqLEnH
Circular Saw – https://amzn.to/4aMD0xg
Angle Grinder – https://amzn.to/48K2klD
Narex Chisels – https://amzn.to/3tHNJrT
One Hand Clamps – https://amzn.to/48jGxkZ
Spring Clamps – https://amzn.to/41Nuh9D
Japanese Ryoba Saw – https://amzn.to/48if4Qz
Center Punch – https://amzn.to/48Fq7mv
Machinist Square / Speed Square

Other:
Wood Glue – https://amzn.to/48ltKhJ
Epoxy – https://amzn.to/3tJ5R4L
Drill bits – 6mm – https://amzn.to/48Kaaf7
Router bits – 6mm – https://amzn.to/3NQNDVX
Forstner bits – 10mm – https://amzn.to/3Hd1aDb
Double-Sided Woodworking Tape – https://amzn.to/3tPMGpM
Sandpaper Sheets – https://amzn.to/41OMx2p
Spray Laquer – https://amzn.to/3RRED3J

Some of the links above are affiliate links. If you buy through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

📌 Pin this to your woodworking board so you can build this multi-purpose router jig later:

DIY Multi-Purpose Router Jig — one versatile router jig for dados, mortises, circles, T-tracks, and surface flattening.

What Are the Benefits of Making a Multi-Purpose Router Jig?

A multi-purpose router jig is useful because it replaces several dedicated router jigs with one adjustable base. Instead of building a separate jig for every task, you can use the same router base with different guides, accessories, and setups.

Here are the main benefits:

Versatility – You can use it for cutting dados, grooves, rabbets, mortises, circles, homemade T-tracks, and even flattening wooden surfaces.
Better Router Control – The larger base gives your trim router more stability, which helps reduce tipping and makes routing safer and more accurate.
Adjustable Guide Rails – The guide rails can be moved and locked in different positions, so you can adapt the jig to different workpieces and cuts.
Reusable Accessories – The T-slots allow you to attach guide rails, stops, pivot pins, and other add-ons whenever needed.
Great for Cutting Board Jigs – I also use this router base as the upper carriage for my router flattening jig, which makes it especially useful when working on cutting boards.
Small Workshop Friendly – It doesn’t take much space, and one jig can cover many routing tasks.

TIP: If you build your jigs around the same T-track system, you can reuse the same bolts, clamps, stops, and accessories across multiple projects.

Woodworking Task	Multi-Purpose Router Jig	Additional Setup Needed
Freehand Routing	✓	None
Dados & Grooves	✓	Guide Rails
Rabbets	✓	Guide Rail
Mortises	✓	Guide Rails
Homemade T-Tracks	✓	Guide Rails
Circle Cutting	✓	Pivot Attachment
Flattening Small Parts	✓	Guide Rails
Flattening Cutting Boards & Slabs	✓	Router Flattening Jig

One of the biggest advantages of a multi-purpose router jig is that a single router base can handle many different woodworking tasks simply by changing the guide rails or adding accessories.

Let's Start Building!

The multi-purpose router jig consists of three main parts: the router base, the handles, and the adjustable guide rails.

The base is made from Baltic birch plywood and MDF. Together, they create a strong and stable platform that gives the router more support and reduces tipping during cuts.

What makes this jig so useful is the integrated T-slot system. It allows you to attach guide rails, stops, pivot pins, and other accessories, turning the same router base into a jig for cutting dados, rabbets, mortises, circles, homemade T-tracks, and more.

The handles are positioned to provide good control while routing and are secured with both screws and epoxy to withstand the pressure applied during use.

Multi-Purpose Router Jig Features

Large Router Base – improves stability and control
Integrated T-Slots – supports accessories and add-ons
Adjustable Guide Rails – useful for dados, mortises, and rabbets
Expandable Design – adapts to many routing tasks
Workshop-Friendly – replaces several dedicated router jigs

NOTE: One of my favorite uses for this jig is as the upper carriage for my router flattening jig. Combined together, they make flattening cutting boards, slabs, and glued-up panels much easier.

Building the Multi-Purpose Router Jig

Step 1: Cut the Router Base Pieces

To build the router base, you will need to cut two rectangles: one from plywood and the other from MDF. The dimensions of each rectangle are 170 x 300mm. To ensure precise cuts, I used a circular saw straight edge guide. (If you have, use a table saw)

The router base is made from two identical pieces — one from Baltic birch plywood and one from MDF. Both pieces measure 300 mm × 170 mm and will later be joined together to create a strong, stable, and smooth router base.

To make the cuts, I used a circular saw together with a straight edge guide. If you have a table saw, this is a perfect opportunity to use it. The most important thing is that both pieces are identical in size and square, since they will be used together throughout the next steps of the build.

TIP: Before cutting the slots, temporarily attach the plywood and MDF pieces together using double-sided tape. This allows you to cut both pieces at the same time and ensures the slots line up perfectly afterward.

Once the base pieces are cut, you can move on to creating the T-slots and router opening.

1. Cut the T-Slots in the Base

The T-slots are what make this jig adjustable and versatile. They allow you to attach guide rails, stop blocks, pivot pins, and other accessories that transform the router base for different tasks.

Start by marking the slot locations and cutting the corners of the router base. Then rout the slots using a router and a dado jig. This is one of the most important steps of the build, so take your time and make sure the slots are straight and evenly spaced.

If you don’t have a router dado jig, a jigsaw can also be used, although the cuts may require a bit more cleanup afterward.

NOTE: Accurate T-slots are the foundation of this project. Most of the jig’s accessories rely on them, so spending extra time here will pay off later.

2. Cut the Router Opening

Next, cut the opening in the center of the plywood base. I used a circle cutting jig to make a clean opening, but a jigsaw works just as well.

The opening only needs to be large enough to provide clearance for your router bits and for the entire router base. (I have a diameter of 100mm)

TIP: Before cutting, place your router on the base and confirm that the opening is properly centered. It’s much easier to adjust the layout now than after the hole is cut.

Step 2: Make the Handles

The handles are a small part of the build, but they make a big difference when using the jig. Since routing often requires steady downward pressure and good control, the handles need to be comfortable, sturdy, and securely attached.

For this build, I made the handles from laminated plywood. I glued three plywood strips together and then shaped them into a comfortable grip. The exact shape isn’t critical — a simple handle works just as well as a decorative one. The important thing is that it feels comfortable in your hand and provides a secure grip while routing.

1. Shape the Handles

Begin by gluing three strips of plywood together, each measuring 200mm x 30mm x 27mm. Secure the strips in a wooden vise and shape them to your desired handle shape. Once complete, cut the strips in half to create two handles.

Next, drill a 6mm hole in the bottom of each handle and apply a layer of lacquer to protect and strengthen the handles while also bringing out the beauty of the plywood grain.

TIP: Round over the edges slightly. Even a small chamfer or roundover makes the handles much more comfortable during longer routing sessions.

2. Prepare the Router Base for the Handles

Next, drill the mounting holes in the router base. These holes will hold the bolts that secure the handles to the jig.

To keep the bottom of the base flat, create recesses for the bolt heads. In my build, I cut hexagonal pockets so the bolt heads would sit flush and couldn’t rotate when tightening the handles.

NOTE: Make sure the bolt heads sit completely flush with the bottom of the base. Any protrusion can affect how smoothly the jig slides across the workpiece.

One thing I like about this design is that the handles are attached using both bolts and epoxy, creating a very strong connection that easily withstands the forces generated while routing.

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Step 3: Cut the MDF Router Base Desk

Before assembling the router base, there are a few additional cuts that need to be made in the MDF layer. This piece forms the bottom of the jig and is responsible for creating the T-slot system as well as providing the mounting points for the router.

1. Create the T-Slots

The slots cut earlier in the plywood need to be enlarged in the MDF piece to create the T-slot profile. Once both layers are glued together, these enlarged slots will allow T-track bolts to slide freely while remaining captured inside the track.

You can cut the T-slots using a router, which gives the cleanest results, or a jigsaw if that’s what you have available in the workshop.

One thing I like about this setup is that I use the same T-slot dimensions across many of my projects. This allows me to reuse the same hold-down clamps, bolts, stop blocks, and other accessories from one jig to another.

TIP: Test a T-track bolt in the slot before assembly. It should slide smoothly without excessive play.

2. Cut the Router Mounting Openings

Next, cut a square opening in the center of the MDF base. This opening provides visibility around the router bit and improves chip extraction while routing.

After that, drill the four mounting holes used to attach the router to the jig. Make sure the holes are positioned accurately according to your router base.

NOTE: The mounting bolt heads should sit flush with the surface of the MDF base. Any protruding hardware can interfere with the workpiece or affect how smoothly the jig slides.

One advantage of the larger square opening is that it provides better visibility than a small circular hole, making it easier to see your layout lines and monitor the cut while routing.

Step 4: Assemble the Router Base

Now it’s time to bring the two base pieces together and create the finished router base.

Start by inserting the mounting bolts into the recessed pockets in the plywood base. I secured the bolt heads with epoxy to prevent them from spinning when tightening the router or accessories later. This also helps keep everything permanently aligned.

Once the epoxy has cured, apply wood glue to the MDF base and carefully align it with the plywood piece. Make sure the edges, T-slots, and center openings line up properly before clamping everything together.

Take a few moments to check that the assembly remains flat while the glue dries. A flat base is important because the jig needs to slide smoothly and consistently across the workpiece.

TIP: Use several clamps or add weight evenly across the surface during glue-up. This helps create a strong bond and prevents gaps between the two layers.

NOTE: Double-check that no glue squeezes into the T-slots. Any dried glue inside the tracks can interfere with bolts and accessories later on.

At this point, the router base is complete and you can move on to attaching the handles.

Step 5: Attach the Handles

Start by applying a small amount of epoxy to the mounting bolts and inside the handle holes. Then slide the handles onto the bolts and position them correctly on the router base.

The handles should be placed far enough apart to provide a comfortable grip while still leaving enough room for the router body in the center. Once installed, tighten everything securely and allow the epoxy to cure.

I decided to use both bolts and epoxy for attaching the handles. Routing puts a surprising amount of force on the handles, especially when flattening surfaces or making deeper cuts, so I wanted the connection to be as strong as possible.

TIP: Before the epoxy cures, hold the jig and test the handle position. Small adjustments now can make the jig much more comfortable to use later.

NOTE: The handles should feel solid with no movement or flex. A secure handle connection improves both control and safety when routing.

Step 6: Attach the Router to the Base

The final step is attaching the trim router to the completed base. Once installed, the jig is ready to be used for a wide range of routing tasks.

Start by turning the router base upside down and positioning the router over the mounting holes. The router should sit centered in the opening, providing enough clearance for the router bit while still leaving good visibility of the cutting area.

Insert the mounting screws through the base and secure the router in place. Before tightening everything fully, check that the router is properly aligned and that the bit is centered in the opening.

One thing I like about this design is that it can be adapted to different routers. Depending on the router model, you may need to adjust the mounting hole pattern or drill additional holes in the base.

NOTE: Make sure all mounting screws are tightened securely. Any movement between the router and the base can affect accuracy and lead to inconsistent cuts.

At this point, the multi-purpose router jig is fully assembled and ready for accessories, guide rails, and routing operations.

Adding Guide Rails and Accessories

The multi-purpose router jig can be used on its own, but its real strength comes from the accessories that can be attached to the integrated T-slots.

The simplest accessories are two adjustable guide rails. They help guide the router for cutting dados, grooves, rabbets, mortises, and homemade T-tracks. The same rails can also be used when flattening smaller workpieces.

To make them, cut two identical MDF strips measuring 230 mm × 40 mm × 16 mm and add a slot in each strip for a T-track bolt. The rails can then be attached to the router base using T-track bolts and wing nuts.

Because the rails are adjustable, you can position them differently depending on the task. In some cases you may use a single rail, while other operations benefit from using both rails together.

TIP: Build your accessories around the same T-slot system. This allows you to reuse bolts, clamps, stops, and other hardware across multiple jigs.

What Can You Do With a Multi-Purpose Router Jig?

This is where the multi-purpose router jig really shines. By adjusting the guide rails or adding simple accessories, the same router base can be used for a wide variety of woodworking tasks.

I originally built this jig to make custom T-tracks, but over time it became one of my most-used router jigs. Today I use it for everything from cutting dados and mortises to flattening surfaces and making circle cuts.

One thing I like most about this design is that it grows with your workshop. You can start with the basic router base and gradually add accessories as new projects require them.

1. Freehand Routing

The multi-purpose router jig can be used on its own without any guide rails or accessories attached. The larger base provides more stability and support than the original router base, making it easier to control the router during freehand cuts.

This is especially useful when working near edges, routing narrow parts, or flattening small areas where a standard trim router base might feel unstable.

I often use the jig in this configuration for quick routing tasks where setting up guide rails would take longer than the cut itself.

TIP: The larger base helps reduce router tipping and gives you better visibility and control while routing.

2. Cutting Dados, Grooves, and Rabbets

This is one of my favorite ways to use the multi-purpose router jig. By attaching one or both guide rails, the router can be guided accurately along the workpiece, making it easy to cut dados, grooves, and rabbets with consistent results.

For edge cuts such as rabbets, a single guide rail is often enough. For dados and grooves in the middle of a workpiece, both guide rails can be used to keep the router perfectly aligned throughout the cut.

This setup works especially well for longer boards and panels where maintaining a straight cut is important. Simply adjust the guide rails to the required position, set the cutting depth, and make several shallow passes until you reach the final depth.

I often use this setup when building workshop jigs, cabinets, and cutting board accessories where accurate joinery is important.

👉 RELATED: Router Jig for Cutting Dados and Slots

TIP: Take multiple shallow passes instead of removing all the material at once. The cuts will be cleaner, the router will work more efficiently, and you’ll have better control throughout the cut.

NOTE: If you need to cut wider dados, make one pass, adjust the guide rail position slightly, and make additional passes until you reach the desired width.

3. Making Homemade T-tracks and T-slots

One of the reasons I originally built this jig was to make custom T-tracks and T-slots for my woodworking projects. Since the guide rails allow you to cut accurate and repeatable dados, creating homemade T-tracks becomes surprisingly easy.

The process starts by routing the center slot where the T-track bolt will slide. Once that is done, route the outer grooves and glue thin strips of wood on top. Together, the center slot and the wooden strips form a simple but very effective T-track system.

I use this approach in many of my workshop jigs because it is affordable, customizable, and allows me to keep a consistent T-track standard across different projects.

👉 RELATED: How to make a custom T-track system

TIP: Make sure the wooden strips are perfectly flush with the workpiece surface. Even a small lip can interfere with accessories and make bolts harder to slide.

NOTE: Before gluing the strips permanently, test the fit with a T-track bolt. The bolt should slide freely along the entire length of the track.

4. Cutting Mortises

The multi-purpose router jig can also be used for cutting mortises. By adjusting the guide rails around the workpiece, the router is guided along a controlled path, making it easy to create straight and consistent mortises.

Depending on the workpiece and the size of the mortise, you can use one or both guide rails. The rails help keep the router stable and prevent it from drifting away from the layout lines during the cut.

To cut a mortise, position the guide rails around the workpiece, set the cutting depth, and make multiple shallow passes until you reach the final depth. This method works particularly well for furniture parts, frame construction, and other joinery projects.

TIP: Make several shallow passes instead of one deep cut. This reduces stress on the router bit and results in cleaner mortise walls.

NOTE: Before routing, mark the mortise boundaries clearly on the workpiece. This makes it easier to stop the cut at the correct location and avoid overshooting the layout lines.

5. Flattening Wooden Surfaces

One of my favorite ways to use this multi-purpose router jig is for flattening wooden surfaces. By attaching the guide rails and using a surfacing bit, you can remove high spots and create a flat reference surface on a workpiece.

This setup works especially well for smaller projects such as cutting boards, handles, serving trays, and glued-up panels. The guide rails keep the router stable while the larger base helps distribute pressure evenly across the surface.

For larger workpieces, I use this router base as the upper carriage of my router slab flattening jig. Combined together, the two jigs make it possible to flatten cutting boards, slabs, and other wide panels that would be difficult to process with standard workshop tools.

👉 RELATED: Router Slab Flattening Jig

To flatten a workpiece, secure it firmly to a flat surface, adjust the guide rails to fit the width, set the cutting depth, and make overlapping passes across the surface. Continue until the entire face is flat and consistent.

TIP: Use a surfacing bit and take light passes. Removing too much material at once can leave a rougher surface and place unnecessary strain on the router.

NOTE: Make sure the workpiece is securely fixed before routing. Any movement during flattening will affect the final result.

6. Cutting Circles in Wood

Another useful application of this jig is cutting circles. By adding a simple pivoting attachment, the router base can be transformed into a circle-cutting jig capable of producing accurate circles of different diameters.

There are two ways to do this. The first uses a pivot pin placed directly in the workpiece, while the second uses a separate pivoting attachment that allows you to cut circles without drilling into the finished piece.

For occasional circle cuts, I typically use a simple pivot setup attached to the router base. For projects that require frequent circle cutting or precise diameter adjustments, I prefer using a dedicated circle-cutting jig.

This method works well for making round tabletops, signs, trays, templates, and other circular woodworking projects.

👉 RELATED: Router Circle Cutting Jig

TIP: Make multiple shallow passes when cutting circles, especially in thicker material. The cut will be cleaner and easier to control.

NOTE: Before starting the cut, rotate the router around the pivot point by hand to make sure nothing interferes with the travel path.

Why This Is One of My Most-Used Router Jigs

Over the years, I’ve built quite a few router jigs, but this one remains one of the most useful in my workshop. The main reason is its versatility. Instead of building a separate jig for every routing task, I can use the same router base and simply change the guide rails or accessories.

I regularly use it for cutting dados, rabbets, mortises, homemade T-tracks, and flattening smaller workpieces. It also serves as the upper carriage for my router slab flattening jig, making it an important part of my cutting board workflow.

Another thing I like is that it follows the same T-track system I use in many of my other jigs. This allows me to reuse the same bolts, clamps, stops, and accessories across multiple projects, making the entire workshop setup more flexible.

TIP: If you’re building several woodworking jigs, try to standardize your T-track dimensions. Being able to reuse hardware between projects saves both time and money.

Wrap-Up: Why a Multi-Purpose Router Jig Is Worth Building

A multi-purpose router jig is one of those workshop projects that keeps proving its value long after it’s finished. What started as a simple router base quickly became one of the most versatile jigs in my workshop.

What I like most about this design is that it can replace several dedicated jigs. With a few guide rails and simple accessories, the same base can be used for cutting dados, grooves, rabbets, mortises, circles, homemade T-tracks, and flattening wooden surfaces. Instead of building a separate jig for each task, you can build one platform and adapt it as your workshop grows.

I also use this jig regularly as the upper carriage for my router slab flattening jig. Combined together, they make flattening cutting boards, slabs, serving trays, and glued-up panels much easier. For that reason alone, this has become one of the most important router jigs in my cutting board workflow.

Another advantage is that the jig uses the same T-slot system found in many of my other projects. This allows me to reuse the same clamps, bolts, stop blocks, and accessories across multiple jigs, making the entire workshop setup more efficient.

If I were building my workshop from scratch again, this would definitely be one of the first router jigs I would make. It’s compact, versatile, affordable, and useful for a surprising number of woodworking tasks.

👉 If you’re building cutting boards, don’t miss my guide on Best Jigs for Making Cutting Boards. Many of the jigs in that guide work perfectly alongside this router jig, and if you want the more complete version of the builds, you can also browse my woodworking plans page.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a multi-purpose router jig used for?

A multi-purpose router jig can be used for a variety of woodworking tasks, including cutting dados, grooves, rabbets, mortises, circles, homemade T-tracks, and flattening wooden surfaces. By changing the guide rails or adding accessories, the same router base can be adapted for different projects.

Can I use any trim router with this jig?

Yes. The design can be adapted to fit most trim routers by adjusting the mounting hole pattern. Before drilling the base, verify the mounting dimensions of your router.

Is this a good project for beginners?

This project is best suited for advanced beginners and intermediate woodworkers. The build requires accurate layout work and router cuts, but the construction itself is straightforward and can be completed in a weekend.

Can this jig be used for flattening cutting boards?

Absolutely. The jig works well for flattening smaller cutting boards on its own and can also be used as the upper carriage of a router slab flattening jig for larger boards and panels.

Do I need the guide rails for every operation?

No. The router base can be used on its own for freehand routing. The guide rails are mainly used when cutting dados, grooves, mortises, T-tracks, or flattening surfaces.

Can I add more accessories to this router jig?

Yes. The integrated T-slots allow you to attach guide rails, stop blocks, pivot pins, fences, and other accessories. This is what makes the jig so versatile and adaptable.

Related Woodworking Jigs and Workshop Projects

This post How to Make a Multi-Purpose Router Jig (A Step-by-Step Guide) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

How to Make a Router Table Spline Jig (Step-by-Step)

About the author, Lukas — Tue, 27 Dec 2022 11:32:30 +0000

AllFlavor Workshop

How to Make a Router Table Spline Jig (Step-by-Step)

When making a wooden box or a picture frame, reinforcing the mitered corners with splines is a great way how to strengthen the joint and ensure a tight bond. Not only the miter joint provides a firm connection but also makes the joint stand out aesthetically.

There are a few ways how to cut a spline joint. You can use hand tools such as a hand saw and a chisel, or you can make a spline joint on a table saw in combination with a table saw spline jig or on a router table using a router table spline jig.

In this article we will be making a spline joint jig for a benchtop router table I built some time ago.

One of the main advantages of a spline joint jig is the simplicity and repeatability with which you will be able to cut and make spline joints.

The spline joint jig is an add-on to the benchtop router table. The jig is mounted on top of the router table and slides around it with the help of wooden guide rails. Although router tables can vary in type and size, by following this build process you will be able to create a spline jig for almost any router table.

The build is made of MDF and Baltic birch plywood. All the materials are easily available.

Read on to find out how to build a spline joint jig for a router table, how to set it up, and how to make a spline miter joint.

RELATED:

DIY Router Table Spline Jig Video

If you want to see how it is done, watch the video below for a step-by-step guide on how to make a spline jig for a router table.

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Router Table Spline Jig Plans
The Material you will need
General Questions
1. What is a spline in woodworking?
2. What are the different ways of cutting a miter spline?
3. What router bit for cutting spline grooves?
How to Make a Router Table Spline Jig
1. Step 1: Build the Sliding Base
2. Step 2: Make the Back Part of the Spline Jig
3. Step 3: Make the Front Part of the Spline Jig
4. Step 4: Glue Both Parts to the Sliding Base
5. Step 5: Cut a Kerf in the Base
6. Step 6: Build the Stoppers
How to Set up and Use a Spline Jig for a Router Table
Woodworking Jigs used for the project

*Safety is your responsibility. Make sure you know what you’re doing and take all necessary safety precautions while working with power tools. Safety comes first!

Router Table Spline Jig Plans

Download the Router Table Spline Jig Plans here

Download plans here

What you'll need to make a Router Table Spline Jig

Router Spline Jig Base
MDF baseboard – 470 mm x 160 mm x 5 mm
Spruce wood strips – 2x (220 mm x 28 mm x 18 mm)
Beechwood Strip – 260 mm x 7 mm x 6 mm

Spline Jig
MDF – 2x (300 mm x 120 mm x 8 mm)
Plywood – 250 mm x 35 mm x 6 mm
Plywood triangles – 2x (60 mm x 60 mm x 12 mm)
Plywood triangles – 2x (35 mm x 35 mm x 12 mm)
DIY T-track bolts

Spline Jig Stoppers
Plywood – 4x (40 mm x 100 mm x 12 mm) – https://amzn.to/3TPULp2
Plywood – 2x (28 mm x 40 mm x 12 mm)

Tools:
Trim Router – https://amzn.to/3HbQcOg
Table Saw / Proxxon Mini table – https://amzn.to/47mWiGf
Ryoba Japanese Saw – https://amzn.to/48if4Qz
Cordless Hand Drill – https://amzn.to/3HqLEnH
Corded Hand Drill / Drill Press – https://amzn.to/3NSA3Bo
Machinist Square / Speed Square
One Hand Clamps – https://amzn.to/48jGxkZ
Spring Clamps – https://amzn.to/41Nuh9D
F-Clamps – https://amzn.to/48ArzY1

Other:
Wood Glue – https://amzn.to/48ltKhJ
Forstner bits – https://amzn.to/3Hd1aDb
Drill Bits – https://amzn.to/48Kaaf7
Straight router bit – https://amzn.to/47prNQi
Spiral bit – https://amzn.to/48pJJv9
M6 Bolts, Washers, Wing nuts, Wood Screws – https://amzn.to/41PodgQ

Check all the Tools I Use

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What is a spline in woodworking?

A spline in woodworking represents a strip of wood inserted in and glued into a matching slot or groove, typically between/along the edges of two boards. The main purpose of a spline in woodworking is to strengthen and reinforce an end-grain joint.

What are the different ways of cutting a miter spline?

There are a few ways how to cut miter splines and spline joints. Traditionally, the spline joint can be cut by using hand tools such as a hand saw (preferably a Japanese saw) and a wood chisel. Using electric tools, it is also possible to cut the joint using a table saw or a trim router in combination with the right saw blade and router bit. The equipment of the tools with woodworking jigs will allow for repeatability, and thus enable faster cutting of joints with the same quality.

What router bit for cutting spline grooves?

When cutting spline grooves on a router table, the best router bits for cutting slots and grooves are a double straight router bit and a double edge spiral bit. They provide excellent results, the cuts are clean and precise and they leave a smooth finish.

The main difference between a straight router bit and a spiral router bit is in the quality of the resulting cut and the price. They both provide great results, although a spiral bit leaves a smoother finish, cleaner cuts, and reduces tear-out. On the other hand, better quality comes at the expense of the price.

For woodworking beginners, straight router bits in combination with painters’ tape is a good option.

Read the following article for more information regarding straight and spiral router bits:

How to Make a Universal Router Circle Cutting Jig

Let's start building!

The router spline jig consists of 2 main parts – the sliding base, and the spline jig itself.

The sliding base is made of MDF and spruce wood strips, and the spline jig is from MDF and Baltic birch plywood. The overall dimensions of the spline jig are 47cm x 22cm x 11m.

Router Spline Jig properties:

Material: MDF, Plywood, Spruce wood
Total dimensions: 47cm x 22cm x 11m.
Spline Jig with a T-track for additional accessories

NOTE: The spline jig built in this article is designed for a clamp-on benchtop router table and uses 6mm router bits. Similarly, the jig can also be made for other types of router tables.

This is a project for a beginner/advanced woodworker. Many areas require increased attention to ensure accurate and clean cuts.

How to Make a Router Table Spline Jig

Step 1: Build the Sliding Base

Before you start building the spline jig measure the dimensions of your router table first. Mine is 40x30cm.

Cut the MDF board slightly longer than the length of the router table leaving a few centimeter-overhang on each side (47cm x 16cm x 0,5cm). To make the main crosscut I am using a mini table saw crosscut sled.

Then, make two cutouts on each side of the board (7,5cm x 4cm). They allow the board to get more forward.

Cut two spruce wood strips to size (22cm x 2,8cm x 1,8cm) and glue them to the board. Make sure the strips fit snugly against the router table so the entire spline jig board can easily slide over it.

Use the router table as a reference. Turn it upside down, align the edges with the board, and clamp it to the workbench. Apply glue on the spruce strips and glue them to the MDF board. Wait until the glue dries and secure the strips with screws.

Cut a 2cm hole in the center of the board with a Forstner bit. The hole needs to be aligned with the router bit.

NOTE: When you mount the spline jig on the router table it should slide easily, yet there shouldn’t be any wobble. If you have tight grip sand the inside of the spruce strips a bit. If the spline jig wobbles add painter’s tape to the strips.

Step 2: Make the Back Part of the Spline Jig

Cut an MDF board to size (30cm x 12cm x 0,8cm) and cut one of the longer sides at a 45-degree angle. To make all the cuts I am using a mini table saw crosscut sled.

Draw the design on the board and use a router dado jig to cut a t-track slot. Make sure the slot is cut on the correct side of the board.

Cut a plywood strip (25cm x 3,5cm x 0,6cm), cut a shallow rabbet on one side, cut out the center part and glue the strip to the MDF board. Additionally, you can fix it with screws.

NOTE: The strip serves as a barrier against the t-track bolt falling out. The center cutout makes it easy to put on and take out the bolts when needed.

Cut 4 isosceles right triangles (2x 6cm x 6cm; 2x 3,5cm x 3,5cm) and glue them to the MDF board right above the miter cut. Make sure the supporting triangles line up flush with the bottom of the miter cut.

NOTE: Do not glue the supporting triangles in the router cut path.

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Step 3: Make the Front Part of the Spline Jig

Follow the same steps as above and create the front part of the spline jig. (The front part does not have a t-track)

Step 4: Glue Both Parts to the Sliding Base

Apply glue on the bottom of the front and back parts and glue the pieces over the cut hole on the sliding base. To make sure the pieces are perpendicular to the router bit you can either draw a line on the sliding base or you can use a square.

Step 5: Cut a Kerf in the Base

Mount the Spline Jig on the router table and cut a kerf in using a router bit (I am using a 6mm router bit). Optionally, for better visibility when cutting, you can mark each side of the kerf to know where the cut would be.

Step 6: Build the Stoppers

Cut all the pieces for the plywood stoppers and glue them together. Drill a 6mm hole for attachment and mount the stoppers on the spline jig with t-track bolts and wing nuts.

NOTE: The stoppers are adjustable and will make sure that all the cuts will be made in the same place.

Below is a picture of a finished router spline jig. A spline joint is a great corner joint. It is strong, looks beautiful and is easy to make with this spline jig.

How to Set up and Use a Spline Jig for a Router Table

The steps provided below describe how to set up a spline jig for a router table and how to use it. Use all the necessary protective equipment. Especially safety glasses. Chips are flying away at high speeds, which can cause serious injury.

For a better understanding of how to set up and use the jig, refer to the included video.

How to use a spline jig for a router table

Mount the spline jig on the router table
Apply painters’ tape on the workpiece to prevent blowout
Place the workpiece in the spline jig and position it where you want to make the cut
Set the stoppers and tighten the wing nuts
Secure the workpiece with a hold-down clamp
Use the right router bit for the job
Slowly make the cut
Repeat the process and make all the other cuts

TIP: Use painter’s tape in order to achieve the best result when cutting splines on a router table. Place the tape on the edge of the workpiece right where want to make the cut. The tape will help to prevent blowout at the other side of the corner and will help to keep the cuts clean.

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Miter Spline Jig

Jigs used for this project:

This post How to Make a Router Table Spline Jig (Step-by-Step) first appeared on AllFlavor Workshop and is written by About the author, Lukas

Router Jigs – AllFlavor Workshop

DIY Juice Groove Jig: Cut Clean Juice Grooves Every Time

How to Make a Juice Groove Jig Video

Table of Contents

Juice Groove Jig Plans

Tools and Materials

Let's start building!

How to Make a Juice Groove Jig

Step 1: Cut the Base to Size

Step 2: Add T-Tracks to the Base

Step 3: Build the Adjustable Side Fences

Step 4: Assemble the Juice Groove Jig

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How to Use the Juice Groove Jig

Juice Groove Routing Tips

Wrap-Up

FAQ – Juice Groove Jig

What router bit do I need to cut a juice groove?

Can I use this jig for different cutting board sizes?

How do I avoid burning the edges while routing?

Can I use shop-bought T-tracks instead of making my own?

Jigs I Used for This Project

Essential Router Jigs for Cabinet Making (And How to Use Them)

Table of Contents

Why Use Router Jigs for Cabinet Making?

Essential Router Jigs for Cabinet Making

1. Adjustable Router Dado Jig

2. Shelf Pin Jig

3. Router Mortising Jig

4. Router Circle Jig

5. Router Template Jig

6. Benchtop Router Table

7. Router Table Box Joint Jig

8. Router Table Spline Jig

Comparison Table: Router Jigs for Cabinet Making

Final Thoughts

FAQ: Cabinet Jigs

What router do I need for cabinet making?

Can I build these jigs with basic tools?

Are these router jigs beginner-friendly?

What materials do you recommend for building these jigs?

Do I need all of these jigs for cabinet making?

Best Router Jigs for Your Workshop (And Why You Need Them)

Table of Contents

What Makes a Great Router Jig?

1. Adjustable Router Dado Jig

2. Adjustable Router Template Guide

3. Router Circle Jig

4. Router Table

5. Router Table Spline Jig (Add-on)

6. Router Table Box Joint Jig (Add-on)

7. Router Mortising Jig

Router Jigs Comparison Table

Final Thoughts

FAQ: Router Jigs and Usage

What kind of router do I need for these jigs?

Can I build these jigs without a router table?

What materials should I use to build router jigs?

How do I attach the router to these jigs?

Do I need special router bits for these jigs?

Simple Router Slab Flattening Jig (Step-by-Step with Pictures)

DIY Router Sled for Flattening Slabs

Table of Contents

Router Flattening Jig Plans

The material you will need to build it

Benefits of a Router Sled

Slab Flattening Router Bit

Let's start building!

How to Build a Router Flattening Jig (Step-by-Step)

Step 1: Make the Base

Step 2: Make the Side Rails

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Step 3: Attach the Rails to the Base

Step 4: Build the Router Carriage

How to Use a Router Sled for Flattening Surfaces

Conclusion

FAQ

Do I need a router sled to flatten wood?

Can I flatten a cutting board with a router sled?

What router bit should I use for flattening?